Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So that means the base is likely soft.  I ended up re-glassing area around the 
two forward  bolts and adding a larger ¼” aluminum plate to provide larger 
surface so I can get to required torque.  You can see the backing plate in this 
photo.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/members/1842-albums4681-picture26184.html

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Eugene Fodor
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

 

Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not overtightening my 
keel bolts on my C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend using a torque wrench 
and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and about 70 ft lbs for the the 
1/2 inch; both of which are below the values listed on the torque specs. I 
noticed that the washers were becoming deformed (is that normal?). I don't want 
to overtighten and crush the hull or deform the keel.

 

Thanks,

 

Gene

"Hawk" 

C 29-2

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Re: Stus-List WESTERBEKE VS ATOMIC HEAT EXCHANGER

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You need another pump, usually driven off flywheel.  I have some spare A4
FWC stuff if he is interested.  

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in barrington



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List WESTERBEKE VS ATOMIC HEAT EXCHANGER

Hi guys, just surfacing again, trying to do a buddy a favour

I have a surplus WESTERBEKE 4-60 engine which was pulled from my boat to
accommodate my electric drive.  My buddy has an ATOMIC 4 with raw water
cooling and wants to know if you can install the WESTERBEKE heat exchanger
onto the ATOMIC 4 engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: April-19-17 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 77

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Stuffing box restuffing (Michael Brown)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 10:38:15 -0400
From: Michael Brown 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box restuffing
Message-ID: <2258822645-30...@mail.tkg.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

When I did the 7/8" shaft and Algonquin stuffing box on Windburn this is
what I used.

18 ? DUR-UX0313-01 ? ? ? PACKING ULTRA-X 5/16" ? ? SOLD BY$0.46 ? ? $8.28? 

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/packing-ultra-x--inch-or-pound--429
50.html

?  
I tool less than 9", but ordered 18" to have some spare.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1




Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 03:32:40 + (UTC)
From: gerald field  

 
I am looking for information on the size of stuffing packing needed on my
C 30 any information will be welcomeRegards Gerald Field
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Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You need free fall.   And long deep free fall.  I installed Lofrans Airon in 
2003, and a year later had to move it back because chain would pile up all the 
way to the top and clog.  So I ended up drilling the pipe just forward of the 
bulkhead on my ’77 38’ Mk2.  And still, over the years( I anchor a lot) we’ve 
grown to a procedure that with about 25’ of chain left either me or my wife go 
down and push the mountain of chain over before pulling remainder.   I 
currently carry 100’ of 3/8” but in the past my primary was 250’ of 5/16”.   
Believe it or not 5/16” was clogging less.  It got rusty so I had to part it 
out. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jacob fuerst 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jacob fuerst
Subject: Stus-List Windlass placement

 

Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid takes 
up the entire bow beyond the vberth. 

 

In order to place the vertical rope to chain windlass on the deck requires 
placing it above the vberth and running a channel for the rode back into the 
locker. Additionally this would mean cutting into the liner inside.

 

There are holes in the bulkhead where there appears to have been a shelf bolted 
inside the anchor locker but going only to that seems very weak. I'm thinking 
now of reinforcing the bulkhead and sort of glassing it into the sides and then 
bolting a frame to set the windlass on and it would be fully contained within 
the locker. 

 

Has anyone been through this or have suggestions or notes of caution?

Jacob Fuerst

'78 C 36

Ventura, CA
303-520-4669

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Re: Stus-List Prop Pullers

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I made a puller using galvanized pipe flange of the appropriate size to slide 
over the shaft and sit against the prop.   This is assuming shaft is out.  If 
the shaft is not out,  you could try to cut out a slot in the flange using 
angle grinder.With two galvanized flanges and appropriate length bolts 
you could have a 10$ puller.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 8:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Pullers

 

Randy

 

It may be difficult to pull off even with pullers.   On Persistence we 
tensioned the pullers to no avail.  Then with pullers tensioned we applied heat 
to prop hub and once heated to our satisfaction tapped with a hammer.  Note 
that we backed off the shaft nut quite a bit but left on the shaft to prevent 
prop from coming completely off before we were ready,  Have been advised that 
sometimes prop comes off with a bit of force and can be dangerous.  Others will 
elaborate

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 8:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Pullers

 

A large gear puller should be enough.

 

 

Joel

On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 1:04 AM RANDY via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers-

 

What's your favorite prop puller?  Or at least, which one / what kind would you 
recommend to pull a fixed two-blade 12" prop off a 7/8" SAE tapered shaft with 
5/8" x 11 UNC thread?

 

Thanks,

Randy

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Not all windgens are created equal.  I’ve had guests sitting in the cockpit in 
20kt breeze and with bimini above they had no clue my blades were spinning.  I 
was told they could spin 200mph+ in a breeze.  My windgen is mounted on an 
1-1/4” aluminum pole, starboard-aft of the cockpit.  Blades come down to about 
6” above the bimini.   I agree some windgenerators are annoying as hell.  I 
installed Fourwinds II in 2004.  very quiet and powerful.  Not for everyone and 
no longer available new.  In ‘06 I was on Cruisers net in Abacos, and heard 
that an owner had lost an arm trying to swing the blades away from the wind as 
squall was approaching.   New ones now-days consist of light blades that would 
not do any damage in an accident.  But also tend to be louder.  

There is a an old photo of it

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sundowner-cruise/315941744/in/album-72157594408710035/

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

  

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

 

Edd,

Your use of “pull the trigger” is ironic, since it is what I want to do any 
time a person with a wind generator picks up a mooring or anchors anywhere 
within ear shot of my boat.  Well maybe not quite that severe, but there are 
few sounds more annoying to me than a wind generator buzzing all night long 
when I’m trying to enjoy a quiet anchorage.  When solar power is becoming so 
inexpensive and reliable, why resort to a mechanical alternative that adds 
windage, complexity, and detracts from the lovely lines of your C?

But there are a number of satisfactory mounting systems now available from 
SeaView and Edson should you venture in that direction…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 LF

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 1:10 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

 

Listers,

 

After watching the Brown family on Alaskan Bush People last night install a 
wind turbine to power their part of the island, I got to thinking (usually a 
very dangerous and costly thing to do) and found this on Defender: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290063|2290064 

 =2188348 

 

So — has anyone installed a wind turbine/generator on their C? Pros? Cons? 
How did you mount it? Any photos of your mounts would be appreciated in case I 
pull the trigger. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 


   

 





 

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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Now that its winter as shown in pbase articles, provided that you have 
disconnected each of your batteries prior to winter storage so your batteries 
can reach steady state, you could just go and measure the voltage on each one 
and get a very reliable State of charge.  And you would do it without 
sacrificing the one cycle (20A 50% discharge test).  Lead acids are usually 
estimated at 300 cycles with 50% discharge, assuming you properly charge and 
don’t leave them discharged for long time.   

 

Battery monitors will tell you state of charge(SOC) based on how many AH left 
and how many you put back.  So that’s pretty accurate.On top of it you can 
add the Peukert’s exponent stuff to account for losses and you can set cutoffs 
for battery type.   

The problem is you can damage batteries by overcharging or keeping them empty 
for too long. If that takes place, then SOC as shown by the monitor is no 
longer reliable.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery test

 

Len,

 

there is no free lunch... (i.e. if you do it cheap or quickly, the results will 
be questionable).

 

Joe’s way is probably the best way to do it, provided that you can maintain a 
steady 20 A current through the load and that you can stop the discharge at the 
particular voltage level (you have to watch it).

 

I would suggest looking up this web site: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects and specifically, this 
article: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_state_of_charge.

 

This should give you plenty of advice.

 

You would also find that the battery monitors, usually, just measure the 
current flowing out of the battery (batteries) and potentially, the voltage. So 
they might tell you how much charge you have used, but they won’t tell you the 
SoC of the battery.

 

good luck 

 

Marek

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 10:16

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Della Barba, Joe 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery test

 

Easy cheap way.
If you have accurate volt and amp meters,  a 20 amp (or near enough) load 
applied for enough time to drain the batteries 50%*. You should see 12.2 for 
wet cells and 12.3 or so for gel/agm.

Light loads like 1-5 amps and heavy loads like 50-100 amps both will be 
inaccurate because of Peukert’s law. This law deals with the fact that  a 100 
AH battery can supply 100 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 100 hours in theory, but 
in practice 1 amp will last longer than 100 hours and 100 amps won’t make the 
full hour. 20 amps is a good value for these tests.

 

* (AH capacity of batteries/load in amps) /2 = time in hours for 50% discharge

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 00:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery test

 

Hi Len,

If you're 100 percent full and have a coffee in your hand, may I suggest some 
advice from Bobby... and words I live by.

Don't warry. Be Happy.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 07:28 PM 06/02/2017, you wrote:

I think the CBA would work well so far from the little reading I have done. I 
have four 6 volt deep cycle batteries for my house bank and a Link monitor. I 
also have a simple analogue load tester. The problem is the solar panel masks 
any shortfall in the bank by fully charging usually before I make coffee in the 
morning. The house bank isn't quite as full on a rainy day and everything works 
but I would like to know how well. I probably should just leave it alone but if 
the bank is 100% charged but at 50% amp hour capacity I want to know. Len

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Re: Stus-List weeping hull

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Its definitely not the case of “don’t worry about it”.  Do you know if you have 
balsa?  On my 38mk2 from 1977 balsa goes all the way down to the keelbolts 
tabbing.  You need to find that out. Few ways you can do that.  Tapping with a 
mallet on the outside of the hull around the questionable  area could give you 
some ideas if the area is hollow (balsa is already decomposed).  Cheap moisture 
meter(home depot) can be used to see if area is wet but you have to “Calibrate” 
it.  What I mean by that is the following:  since cheap meters are not designed 
to penetrate bottom paints and fiberglass to show wet core,  you need to see 
what the meter reading is on a known “dry” core, and on a known soaked core.  
Then knowing this, you can see if the area you are suspicious of is wet.  But 
weeping is never a good sign.

If you find it wet, find the edge of where wetness ends and you need to drill 
some drain holes (from the inside of the hull).  I am dealing with similar on 
another project boat I recently purchased.  I found cheap moisture meter to be 
reasonably reliable on a masonry setting.  In my case when a drilled suspicious 
area with a 3/16” hole from the inside of the hull I got a stream of water 
pouring out.  A stream that was in one case initially shooting 3” high when I 
first drilled it.  

Good luck. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jacob fuerst 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2016 2:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jacob fuerst
Subject: Stus-List weeping hull

 

In my '78 C 36 I am seeing a couple spots where salt water is weeping in 
through the hull near the bilge area, appearing from seemingly nowhere as if 
from a spring. One point is about 3' back from the mast and 18" to the side. 
The other is closer to the keel but they both are on the edges of hull 
stringers. 

 

I've had a few people look at it and I've gotten everything from an estimate to 
rebed the keel (though the bolts seem fine and I had the boat out in May), to 
cutting apart the fiberglass to locate where the water is running from, to 
don't worry about it.

 

Has anyone had this happen before? How big of a deal is it? The amount of water 
is minimal but I believe they were coring the hulls. Does anyone know the exact 
cross sectional thickness of the fiberglass? Were just the sides of the boat 
cored or did they do the entire hull? How did that work where the keel meets? 
Is it possible that a through-hull is leaking and water is running up to 
several feet along the core and popping up somewhere random where it has found 
a weak spot in the fiberglass? 

 

-- 

Jacob Fuerst

303-520-4669

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Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Elevated moisture or rotted balsa? See if the pro will agree to use core other 
than balsa.  Something not  susceptible to water ingress and rot.  Like Coosa 
board or Air-X closed cell foam. The issue with at least my model C is:  Deck 
does not drain well, loaded track works so mo natter how you bed it, water will 
get in, and you have balsa inside.  It’s a recipe for disaster.  Even if you 
replace with balsa, and bed it properly, it will rot again.   I guess you could 
not go sailing then the water will stay out. 

 

Here is the thread of my repair with some photos. I went with Coosa board.  A 
lot of late nights but it came out great and it will never have to be done 
again.   

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/replacing-wet-balsa-core-160820.html

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2016 10:29 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

 

Steve Uthoff at Annapolis Fiberglass and GelCoat rebuilt my rudder.  He we very 
knowledgeable and from my ignorant perspective did things right.  If it makes 
any difference you can see the pictures he took while doing the job. 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

On Nov 8, 2016 9:24 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  wrote:

Hey all,

A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture 
readings on the port side under the genoa track.  I would do this repair myself 
as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting I leave 
this job to a very experienced professional.

In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the moist 
core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion base and 
genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid epoxy.  Then finish 
the job nicely.

Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

(Former 30mki owner)



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Sundowner is for sale

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Yes, I went down there twice already.  Rig is going down this weekend and we
are packing her up for truck transport.   Project boat.  I seem to be
attracted to them.  I went back and looked at Sundowner's purchase survey
back in '03, and then compared it to the one we just did in FL.  My life
flashed before my eyes, but I still went with the gut instinct.  Surveyor
said it might be easier to say: replace everything accept the following
items...Later on as we were having a few cold ones after a long day,
(sea trial, rig survey etc etc) he goes:  this is the way to look at it, you
have a very solid hull above and below waterline, nice teak decks, running
engine and the rest of it is junk.  Actually aluminum spars are in good
condition.  I know there won't be a forum like this on FD-12s.  Only 25 were
ever made.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sundowner is for sale

 

she looks great Petar!  Good luck on the sale and with the new boat!  Thats
quite a vessel you're getting!  is it the one on sailboat listings in St.
Augustine?

 

On 9/26/2016 11:48 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:

After 13 years I am moving on.   My offer for Tayana FD-12 was accepted in
FL.  I was never really good at showing off my work, but I added few albums
on Cruisers forum to document some of the major projects.   They are linked
in the add.  She is in Newport on a mooring at the Point Anchorage and will
be there for another month or so.   

 

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/61491

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 






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are greatly appreciated!

 

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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Sundowner is for sale

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

After 13 years I am moving on.   My offer for Tayana FD-12 was accepted in
FL.  I was never really good at showing off my work, but I added few albums
on Cruisers forum to document some of the major projects.   They are linked
in the add.  She is in Newport on a mooring at the Point Anchorage and will
be there for another month or so.   

 

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/61491

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Open CPN

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I put a micro SD on my phone, loaded with those free Coast guard raster charts. 
 Android version of OpenCPN is really nice.   I find myself using that more 
often than the garmin chart plotter.Gps works pretty good.  I’ve been 
making a point to see how far off I am from various buoys as go past them.  
It’s pretty accurate.  Even my kids Tablet Galaxy Tab 2 has a version of 
openCPN, with its own Micro SD card and charts.   He is 8 and navigates using 
his own device.I would trust either of them in an emergency.  Obviously you 
always want redundancy.  

Course planning is difficult without a mouse.   I have a 12V PC for that, with 
external GPS via serial port,  running windows version of OpenCPN.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 1:42 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Open CPN

 

I cannot say enough good about it. If it were possible to buy daylight 
waterproof displays for less than a commercial chart plotter costs Raytheon, 
B, Sitex, etc. would all be unable to sell any plotters.

The real downsides are the current demands of a PC and relative fragility of 
the hardware.  I use an ancient IBM ThinkPad as my nav PC. It can run on 
straight 12 volts if need be (I have an 18 volt adapter that charges it and 
runs it) and is NEVER connected to any network EVER. It has nothing on it but 
OpenCPN and PSK-31 software for the SSB. 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Open CPN

 

I am looking for what others think about the open CPN navigation program.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

That might satisfy the below/above rule but I am not sure how having all around 
white few inches below tricolor affects the red/green.  I never really took the 
dinghy away from the boat at night to see. 

 

To me Rule #1 is be visible.  So under power at night outside, tri-color is on, 
and steaming light at the first spreader is on.  In the bay and harbors, I use 
deck level running lights.Again for visibility.  You’ll be surprised how 
many taxis/ small powerboats don’t look up at night.  I almost got hit sailing 
into Newport Harbor by a small power boat as he did not bother looking up to 
see the tri-color.

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

So if you have a combo tricolor/anchor masthead light and you are under power 
should they both be on?

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
Newport, RI





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
international. There should be no difference in requirement between
countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
>
>   "It is not required under sail."


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

On the high seas, especially in swell, those deck level running lights might
be useless.  Typical example is crossing the gulf stream from FL to Bahamas.
There is so much traffic there and if swell is up, deck level lights are not
visible.  Shipping lanes are very busy down there.  To me, safety is more
important than if red/green are below or above the steaming light.
Tri-color takes priority for overnight crossings and offshore passages
regardless of what the rules are, especially if going solo.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
Newport, RI


  


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are
international. There should be no difference in requirement between
countries - that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions -
type of vessel identification, and vessel heading identification.  When
under power, whether the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the
red / green bow lights and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The
steaming / masthead light must be higher than the red / green bow lights -
which is why it is not correct to use a masthead tricolor with a
steaming/masthead light.   If under sail alone one should not display a
steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be confused for a vessel under
power. Might be bad where a possibility of collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


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Re: Stus-List Window Leak

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I agree as well.  As per this article.  I did it this april, and so far so
good.  No screws.

http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights

 

I posted a photo of one side where you can see the new windows.  it's the
side that was completely dug out to replace rotten balsa core along the
genoa track.  12' by 1' section of deck was out.  One of the contributors to
rotten balsa were those windows.  

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130099
 =1472209190

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike
amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 4:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: amira...@bellaliant.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Leak

 

I agree with Alan; more screws are just going to make the leak worse. Get
rid of the screws, fill the holes and glue the window with Sika, or Dow795
or VHB tape.

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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

That sounds reasonable for new batteries.   Are you logging the battery 
voltage?  Is that what you mean by telemetry?

Voltage is difficult to use as means of charging.  Amps would be more useful, 
and AH are what ultimate truth teller.  Solar charge controllers should have 
Amps.

Little DC/AC clamp on Amp meter is very useful in troubleshooting.   The other 
day I couldn’t believe that at 11AM, on a sunny day I was getting very low 
Amperage out of the solar panels.  only 6A out of 2x 130W Kyoceras (should be 
15A -20A).  But the shadow of the mast and windgen pole was covering sections 
of both panels.  Panel output drops off drastically even with slightest shadow. 
 Angle to the sun also drastically influences the output.   Few minutes later I 
was at 15A.  My batteries are so old that I could tell when the sun hits the 
panels cleanly by the RPMs of the cabin fans.  Fans are also old and starting 
to get noisy.   When I say old batteries, I mean their surface voltage responds 
quickly to charging and discharging.  So sun hits the panels, charge amperage 
goes up and so does the battery voltage, and the fan noise.  Then a cloud comes 
and the fan RPM goes down.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 11:21 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

 

I just looked at my telemetry and when the boat is sitting with the 50 watt 
solar panel and no load other than the telemetry system, it tends to go up to 
13.6-13.8 volts as the sun goes up and drop to 12.9 as the sun goes too low to 
provide much power. Overnight it will drop to 12.6-12.5 or so and then repeat 
the next day.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 16:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

 

Josh,

 

Thanks. There doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with the batteries, but I 
haven’t monitored the system all that much. Usually I get on board, head out 
into the Sound, unfurl the jib and accelerate to Warp 7.2 on a reach. 

 

I think I was just used to the old 5-7W panels that trickle charged. This 40W 
panel is a major difference and I just wanted to be sure all is good (and it 
appears so — Thank you Listers!) Why did I wait so long to do this? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 

 





 

On Aug 29, 2016, at 4:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Seems normal but what I didn't hear you describe was the battery reaching full 
charge.  The genasun controller will go solid green when it is full.  You 
should also look for volts to reach 14.2v and after 2 hours it should go solid 
green.

If it doesn't reach full charge it may just be that there isn't enough sun but 
if it simply can't then there may be trouble with your batteries.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 29, 2016 3:22 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Listers,

 

I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through a 
Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.) 

 

When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the batteries at 
13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still out, they dropped to 
12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the controller kicking in. 

 

Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does this 
all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?  Concerned 
about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water level in all of 
them were just fine.

 

Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be and 
I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s normal, 
I’m loving it. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 

 

 





 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

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what we do, 

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I did CPES for two coats, then minwax  satin clear urethane for the stairs.  I 
liked doing the stairs so much, that I ended up doing galley and nav station 
area, but just two coats of urethane.  It came out like a new interior.   
Outside stuff like cockpit table and grab rails, I put epifanes after CPES.  I 
think if I get around to it, I will do the entire interior with minwax satin 
clear this winter.  It will definitely bring the boat value up.  

If you get bubbles, scuff them off with 400 grit or 320.   It will teach you to 
take your time next time.  Varnishing is a test of patience.  You cannot cut 
corners.  

There was a lengthy thread on cruisers forum about this same topic.  The 
consensus was that CPES is just a thinned version of epoxy and it does not add 
anything more.  The truth is, I wanted to get rid of my old cans of CPES which 
I had for years so I figured I get rid of them somewhere useful.  But CPES is 
slow by nature.  If I had to do it over again, I would just thin west systems 
the first coat or two so that it penetrates better.  And definitely either slow 
hardener or do it on a cool dry night. 

Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c it 
releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit table?

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

 

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my 
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't 
even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats 
of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the 
winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy.

 

Cheers,

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I wish its like that up here.  Thanks, I will remove tonight.  Need to drill 
out 6 stainless screw heads.  And I am supposed to go on vacation (Nantucket 
and Vineyard) in two weeks so time is of essence.  Otherwise I may try to 
fabricate a temporary solution.   I don’t torture my boat now days.  I have a 4 
month hold and an 8 year old onboard. So we take it slow.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

 

I did the same for my 37 as Rick did for his 38; the local machine guys liked 
it because it was so different from their normal job orders, they didn't even 
charge me...! 

 

Richard

1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Rick Brass < <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> rickbr...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 2, 2016 11:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

When my gooseneck broke (in a similar manner to what you describe), I removed 
it from the mast and took it to a local machine shop. They made a replacement 
out of stainless. Curved plate to mount to the mast with two tangs to hold the 
stainless pivot pin. The spacing of the tangs was a bit off, so I put some 
nylon fender washers in the stack as spacers for the end of the boom to ride on.

 

It wasn’t real expensive (though given the differential in costs from NC to RI, 
it would probably cost you a lot more than it did me), and the fabrication took 
a week or two.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [ <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com?> 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 9:06 AM
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic < <mailto:phorv...@gmail.com> phorv...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

 

I am going to need a new gooseneck.  Mine was a single aluminum piece with two 
loops. Top one broke off.  Boom fitting had an offset set of loops and a single 
5/8” stainless pin was holding everything together.  Now that the top loop 
broke off there is additional load on the bottom.  Did anyone have to replace 
theirs and how did they go about it? 

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I was going to bring it here see if there is a replacement. 

http://www.rigrite.com/A-Main/spar_M.html#Spar%20Parts%20by%20Spar%20Manufacturer

 

He used to be in warwick, not far from where I work, but I can’t find the new 
location.  

 

I’ll give B welding a call. Thanks. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

 

Peter, I just had some aluminum work done on my boom. I took it to Bob at B 
Welding on W Narragansett and Clinton St in the 5th Ward (right across from my 
shop). He should be able to fix it for you fairly quick.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Aug 1, 2016, at 09:06, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

I am going to need a new gooseneck.  Mine was a single aluminum piece with two 
loops. Top one broke off.  Boom fitting had an offset set of loops and a single 
5/8” stainless pin was holding everything together.  Now that the top loop 
broke off there is additional load on the bottom.  Did anyone have to replace 
theirs and how did they go about it? 

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

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Stus-List Goosneck on 1977 38 MkII

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I am going to need a new gooseneck.  Mine was a single aluminum piece with two 
loops. Top one broke off.  Boom fitting had an offset set of loops and a single 
5/8” stainless pin was holding everything together.  Now that the top loop 
broke off there is additional load on the bottom.  Did anyone have to replace 
theirs and how did they go about it? 

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I don’t know how ignition switch would disconnect alternator output form a 
battery?  You need to check that.  Perhaps ignition switch shuts off power to 
the regulator, but event at that alternator should not be outputting current 
that has nowhere to go.  It  does sound more like someone moved the house 
select switch to off while engine was running.   

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 10:25 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Hi Steve,

 Perfect explanation!  That makes sense to me.  I never understood why 
turning off the key would create the reverse voltage, and perhaps it was just a 
coincidence that the alternator was noticed to be dead a week or so after the 
key was turned off.  I have no disconnect between the alternator and my house 
bank, so it's a mystery why my relatively new alternator died.  Thank you!

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah




~~~_/)~~

 

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 9:42 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:

Question #1. 

Failure mechanism:

 

When an alternator is running and delivering current, the current through 
the stator windings creates a magnetic field proportional to the amount of 
current flowing. The current varies with the resistance of the load, and if 
there was no voltage regulator control of the rotor current (and therefore 
rotor magnetism), the current and stator voltage would vary also with the speed 
of the rotor. In other words, the voltage induced in a wire by a changing 
magnetic field depends on the strength of the field and on the rate of the 
change. When the stator current in an alternator is suddenly interrupted, the 
magnetic field that the current created collapses suddenly too. The lines of 
force in the collapsing magnetic field move through the stator windings and 
induce a voltage opposite the that which had produced the current in the first 
place. The collapsing field dumps a fixed lump of energy into the stator 
windings that wants to go through the reverse biased rectifier diodes. Since 
the diodes present a high resistance in that direction, the voltage builds to 
above the diodes peak inverse voltage rating, at which point the diode starts 
conducting heavily, and the energy is dissipated through and in the diodes 
themselves. If there is enough energy stored in the stator windings, the diode 
is destroyed. Note that this is more likely to happen the larger the current 
flowing (i.e. the greater the load on the alternator) when the switch was 
opened. 

   The above description fits what happens when a switch in the output circuit 
of an alternator is opened.  

 

   The failure you describe is less common I think, because I have never heard 
of it, but it would have to depend on a similar mechanism due to the fast 
collapse of the current through the rotor. I have gotten away with doing that, 
shutting off the "ignition", on several occasions, but I would never do it 
deliberately. My first thought is that the risk relative to size of the 
alternator load might be reversed. If there were sufficient load on the 
alternator then the induced emf (electro motive force) might dissipate through 
the load before the voltage built up enough to kill the rectifier diodes. Seems 
to me that there ought to be a greater risk to the voltage regulator in 
shutting off the "ignition" than to the output rectifier diodes.  

 

 

Steve Thomas

C MKIII

Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List   

To: C   List 

Cc: Gary Russell   

Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 07:36

Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator. 

 

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

 

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

 

Thanks,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA  


~~~_/)~~

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

That stuff is exposed to the elements.  Ive had netting since 2006.  I bought 
the first one from Holland marine.  Few years in the tropics deteriorated it 
pretty good.   I am now on my second set.  This time from defender.  I would 
say if you try the cheap route you are going to be redoing it faster than you 
want.  Also in the offseason, if you don’t shrink-wrap the boat, I would take 
the netting off.  It’s a pain but it saves years of weathering. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Lifeline netting

 

Hey guys, 

 

Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from 
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly cheaper than 
West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.  

 

Anyone have experience with this stuff?  

 

Thanks,

Ryan

Nobody's Bargain

1976 C 30mki

New York

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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Usually hull is tapered only where thru-hulls already exist.  Factory doesn’t 
leave spare tapered areas for future upgrades. I don’t want to sound 
discouraging, but I think long and hard before drilling even a smallest hole 
that can sink me.  And you're talking about 2" and trying to get it done at 
crunch time.  See if you can re-purpose and re-organize thru-hulls in a way not 
to drill a new ones.  Do you have an existent transducer you can take out?  You 
might be able to install it on the inside of the hull with good results. There 
are plenty of articles on that.  I had a transducer for Datamarine sandpiper in 
a non-tapered area and took it out to re-purpose the hole.   I found that PO 
did not install it properly.  RTV-like silicone was used and balsa was not 
taken out.  I was lucky that area was dry.

In your case, you can definitely fast cure the stuff, especially in FL.  Maybe 
get pre-made paste like interlux watertite.  Mixing microfibers with west is a 
pain.5200 will definitely still be tacky but that can cure under water.   
Also don’t forget to ask what would it take to undo what you just did.  You 
can’t just plug a 2” hole if you decide transducer is no good.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

 

Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on temperature.  A 
heat gun changes the equation!

 

Joel

 

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right.

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull.

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Scanmar Emergency Rudder MRUD

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Scanmar makes "Monitor" windvane.  One of the options to the wind steering
system is MRUD emergency rudder.  I don't think you can just have emergency
rudder without the actual windvane.  I might be wrong.  I am an owner of
Monitor windvane and have used it for many years. It has water vane, wooden
windvane and frame with control gears and swivel mechanism.  MRUD is an
additional feature that allows you to use Monitor as emergency rudder. I
don't know anything about the MRUD option.  

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington RI




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Trackracer via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Trackracer
Subject: Stus-List Scanmar Emergency Rudder MRUD

Hello, I own a 1973 C BlackWatch in Seattle and I have a scanmar m-rud I
want to get rid of, it would be really cool if another c owner or
similar design could use this.  It has never been used other than a few
testing days, brand new in 2006 and every part is included except the
brackets attached to the transom.  Let me know if you have questions, I'll
sell this for very cheap compared to a new set up.

Thanks
Adam
253 332 8175

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Jib sheet size (svpegasu...@gmail.com)
>   2. Re:  Bow Roller (Allan Rheaume)
>   3. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak
>  (mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net)
>   4. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak (Joel Aronson)
>   5. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak (Peter Fell)
>   6.   Sliding hatch details (Bradley Lumgair)
>   7.  C 34 Packing Size (Chris Duer)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 18:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size
> Message-ID: <000f4242.2a58593375d9a...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>Daniel, you are right the 5/8 jid sheets are overkill. But easy to get
a good hand on. When I replace my 5/8 sheets I am thinking that I will
probably go with the 9/16. A little thinner but still easy on the hands.
Although with the fancy lines out there you can find 1/2 in line that is
stronger that the 5/8. IMHO it will depend on if you race or worry about
spilling your beer on a tack.?
>Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Original message--From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Date: 
> Mon, Apr 25, 2016 09:19To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Daniel
Sheer;Subject:Stus-List Jib sheet size I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on
my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a flea with a shotgun, almost.
Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how long?
> Thanks,
> Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part -- An HTML attachment was 
> scrubbed...
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>  426/0ddcee57/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 09:42:23 + (UTC)
> From: Allan Rheaume 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Roller
> Message-ID:
><1063000799.2457439.1461750143647.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm still here Lorne ,I've been lurking more than contributing over the
last few years. My email is all...@kos.net.
> Allan RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 # 90
> 
> 
>  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Lorne Serpa 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 9:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Roller
> 
> Thanks, I'll start chasing him down.
> 
> On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 6:26 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> The right guy is Allan Rheaume. He was active on the list few years ago
and is very knowledgable about the 30 mk II. He was in the Lake Ontario area
in 2010. He answered a lot of my questions when I was looking for a boat at
the time.
> You should be able to find him easily.
> Bruno LachanceBecassine, 33 mkIINew Richmond, Qc.
> 
> Envoy? de mon iPad
> Le 26 avr. 2016 ? 19:16, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 

Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I just did mine and it was also a bit off at the ends.  So I got a true strut 
ID once I pressed the bearing out.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 6:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

 

Brian,

 

Mine was hard to measure because there was a slight taper to the hole at the 
ends of the strut.  You might double check the measurement.  1 5/8 would be odd.

 

Joel

On Thursday, February 11, 2016, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation is 1 
and 5/8.
I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
Cant find metric equivalent either.

Brian Fry
La Neige
HdG MD
1993 37/40XL



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I just did mine in December.  I pressed it out first.  Then took the 
measurement. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in barrington

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2016 2:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

 

Brian, try sanding the ends of the bearing/strut so you can see the brass 
bearing sleeve and bronze strut, may help you get an accurate size.

 

Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry 
Subject: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue

 

Attempting to replace cutlass bearing.
Shaft is 1.25"
ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation is 1 
and 5/8.
I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8.
Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4
Cant find metric equivalent either.

Brian Fry
La Neige
HdG MD
1993 37/40XL

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

McMaster has  it, but the bummer is they only have black.  

http://www.mcmaster.com/#butyl-rubber-tape/=111tufe

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape

 

I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.

 

Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

New Bern, NC

 

 

 

 

cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding deck 
and core along the genoa tracks for C mk2 from 1976.

Top laminate is 3/16” thick.  Balsa is ½”.

In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive.  Tapping and sounding the top got 
me to mark out a big rectangular area.  It extends from about 2” inboard of the 
genoa track and its about 12” wide.  It runs the length of the track.  

There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track 
itself.I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa. 

I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum.  Warning, pics are pretty 
disturbing. 

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627

Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the rot 
out.  

As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat and 
toss out the top laminate.   I’ve had enough of polyester.  Its porous nowhere 
near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work, might as well 
not skimp out on material.  The big question is how to transition to gelcoat 
again?  

The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars 
getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

 

Petar

 

This link shows a recoring project on our former boat 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm

 

Initially we had 4 stanchions that had cracked deck (not just gelcoat) at the 
stanchion bases.  The first year I recored these four areas only.  The link 
above details that job.  The following year I had a surveyor check out the 
entire deck and hull for moisture.  We noted the wet areas (all on the decks) 
and replaced the core in all remaining wet areas except the cockpit seats (done 
another year).  This project involved replacing the core under the genoa tracks 
and also under the primary winches among the 14 areas of problem.  

 

When I replace core material I never save the top skin.  However I do know a 
lot of people do and that is your option.  Most of the wet areas on a deck are 
in non skid areas so it is very easy to rebuild your own top skin and I find 
that process a whole lot simpler.  This is my preference but not necessarily 
better nor worse than keeping the top skin and reusing.  The two benefits of 
not reusing top skin are 1. It is more work to remove the top skin than to 
discard it and 2. You may get air voids under the replaced top skin if not done 
well.  The benefits of retaining the top skin are that you have the contours of 
the deck area saved.  This is nice on a coach roof for example

 

When I start removing the core I normally drill some pilot holes to determine 
how far the wetness and the rot extends.  Typically the rot is localized but 
the moisture travels quite far.  I cut out the area that I know is wet and then 
if I am still in wet core I continue removing until I get to dry core.  Note 
that wet core is not soft.  Rotten core is soft.  Wet balsa can actually still 
adhere quite well to the bottom and top skin and be strong.  However why would 
you leave it?  It is not much more work to replace core in a 1 x 4 ft section 
of deck than it is a 6” by 2 ft section.

 

For an idea of the labour involved compare to a bottom job.  Nut Case our J27 
took 50 hours to strip the bottom to gel coat (by hand), apply barrier coat and 
then antifoul.  By comparison was only 30 hours to replace four sections of 
core material that same year.

 

Note that I have done this job using polyester resins (large areas and cost) as 
well as epoxy.  

 

If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask.  

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 12:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

 

Hi all,

I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and before 
I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.  

 

Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track on 
my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet core, but 
there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona track area is 
rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the track from 
compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember that water was 
coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under load.Especially 
area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last night and there is strong 
oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where ss washers

Re: Stus-List ab inflatables

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

We’ve been using 2004 AB 10AL for about 4 years now, it has a fiberglass 
bottom.   Prior to that I had Caribe C10 (AB and caribe are hypalon).  And 
before that a mercury RIB 10’(PVC).

We live on the boat 5-6 months out of the year so the dinghy gets a lot of use. 
 Pretty much like a car but lower mileage.  I saw few aluminum ABs and while 
they are light, I would be afraid to go fast in it.  it gets out of control way 
too easy.  If you are plaining, even a smallest wake gets dangerous.  My 
comments are based on going from Caribe(heavier) to AB(lighter) with fiberglass 
bottom.  AB with aluminum is even lighter and I would imagine even more erratic 
while moving at plaining speeds. 

Stay away from PVC. And sew yourself a dinghy cover.  Tropical sun will  
disintegrate anything.  For circumnavigation Sailrite sewing machine is worth 
its weight in gold.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jason Ward 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jaw...@mymts.net
Subject: Stus-List ab inflatables

 


Hello all,

 

I am looking for peoples experience with AB inflatables.  I am looking at 
purchasing a new tender for my C Landfall and I came across this brand in my 
search.  I currently own a 1978 Zodiac that has been a great tender for the 
past 35 years.  However, everything ages and it is time to move on to a new 
boat.  I am looking for something that is going to be durable, stable, and tows 
and handle well.  My current Zodiac is a soft bottom with a wood floor, but I 
want to change to a v-shaped aluminum bottom.  I am also wanting to stay with 
Hypalon material as I am planning to use this on a future Atlantic 
circumnavigation. The AB Lamina UL10 brand seems to be a good replacement, 
however, I don't know anyone who owns one.  Any reviews that people can 
contribute or alternative makes would be appreciated. 

 

Regards,

Jason Ward

S/V Starship

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Stus-List now sailrite RE: ab inflatables

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Bill, 

I can’t tell you how many times iv’e stitched a rip while under way.  For 
cruising in the tropics, where sun always wins, you are going to get a rip. 
Even the best of uv threads will give way at some point.  A ripped sail is 
actually worse than losing the engine.  For the seasonal weekend warriors with 
seatow, its pointless, but if you’re offshore or spending time in the tropics 
and third world countries, its priceless.   I am more of a weekend warrior now, 
but my cruising, self-sufficient habits are still with me.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List ab inflatables

 

Is it valuable enough to take on the boat with you? 

I watched the fellow from Sailrite demo that at Annapolis, and I was so 
spellbound watching him make upholstery piping and such I was getting my credit 
card out, but then some woman started talking at him, and she seemed more 
interested, so I backed off and the feeling went away.   I am sure it is not as 
easy as he made it look.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

. And sew yourself a dinghy cover.  Tropical sun will  disintegrate anything.  
For circumnavigation Sailrite sewing machine is worth its weight in gold.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington RI

 

 

 

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Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and before 
I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.  

 

Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track on 
my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet core, but 
there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona track area is 
rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the track from 
compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember that water was 
coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under load.Especially 
area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last night and there is strong 
oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where ss washers and nuts were. 

  

Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out the top 
laminate?  I guess tap with a mallet?  Do people mostly save the top laminate 
or decide to lay new one from scratch?  I am also thinking that it would be 
better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included so that I don’t have 
to deal with potential of uneven surface between repair area and untouched area 
where genoa track lies.   I can foresee potential issues with the car not 
riding smoothly in area of that transition.  

 

Thanks

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Speaking of those, I had broken off the tailing part many years ago on one of 
my 28ST.  

Does anyone have any idea on how to go about replacement that does not involve 
purchasing a pair of ST winches of the same size.   Cause I fear after 
investing 800$ to get a used replacement, I can see myself in the same 
predicament after few years. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington, RI. 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List Barient 28ST on EBay

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151961260637?item=151961260637 
 
==mtr

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA  

 

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Re: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Thank you.  

And I was under impression that this was a reasonable deal…

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281165875306?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 

 =STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

if you could spec out the gear drive, you could buy them at skycraft and sell 
them on ebay at 10x the price.  Not a bad side gig for those with 
electronics/mechanical know-how.  This goes for all marine-electronics 
components, designed by an engineer that had to spec out a part from somewhere, 
and the part had to be cost-effective.  Back then, they were not worried about 
customer potentially  doing this.  Nowdays, companies are making an effort to 
prevent this type of stuff.  But all my electronics systems are old and I try 
to keep them working, so this is great.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

 

Nicely done!

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2015 20:46:38 -0500
From: Dreuge <  dre...@gmail.com>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor
Message-ID: <  
a951db06-f4bf-4313-8df0-51302ad17...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I just posted some information about replacing the DC motor in a wheel 
autopilot.  The motor in my SPX-5 recently died.  I purchased the same motor 
which Raymarine uses for $6.95, installed it, and it?s working.


If anyone is interested, here is the link:   

 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html

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Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Just some thoughts on my experience.

Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and 
controls over larger areas.  It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be 
repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space.   One of the 
reasons I went the DIY path is so I can fit 2x 40” membranes under starboard 
stern tube.   The other thing is, because space requirement has such high 
impact on decision process, people opt for smaller WM which has smaller 
membrane(s), which produces less product output.  Now you need to run it longer 
and consume more energy.   On the other hand WMs need to be run.  So if you are 
prepared to spend the energy, running smaller(20”)  membrane(s) twice as long 
keeps them less prone to microbial growth. So long as you run it and flush it 
every week.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.

 

I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.

 

Bob 

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
$100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.

 

Dan

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Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So jealous you got long term Bahamas plans on the horizon.  Actually, most of 
Bahamas drinking water comes from desalination plants. 

Anyway, I would utilize all the tanks all the time.  Have means to combine or 
separate.  Maybe rotate them.  Because the minute you start storing water for 
long term use, you invite algae.  Stagnant water only hurts.  Whether its salt 
stagnant that corrodes Stainless, or fresh stagnant in the product lines or 
tanks that ends up harboring bacteria.  

You can still have a backup concept but make sure no water stays for more than 
a week if you plan on drinking it.  And if it’s in there for longer, give decks 
and rigging a wash.  

RevX of my DIY never ending project called “desalinator” (or how to truly be a 
slave to your boat), has  6 gal bladder tank used just for flushing after every 
batch.  And in my main tanks (2x30gal) I put a teaspoon of bleach every time I 
fill them.  And I have a PUR filter at the faucet for drinking.  Some folks 
talk about UV sterilizer, but I haven’t gotten there yet.  I drank that water 
for over a year while down there. My wife at the time was always able to tell 
the difference even when ppm was < 100.   She would call it a little salty.   
Which was bs.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 9:17 AM
To: Petar Horvatic
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

Petar:

 

Thanks for reminding me that all the components don't need to be in one place.  
So, all I need is a couple smaller spaces.

 

I've been thinking about plumbing the WM only into the forward (largest) tank 
and just draw from that tank while anchored in the Bahamas.  This way, I would 
probably run it every other day for daily water needs.  My other two tanks 
would be for back up needs in the Bahamas but daily needs when in the U.S.  
Does this make sense?

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 7, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

Just some thoughts on my experience.

Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and 
controls over larger areas.  It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be 
repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space.   One of the 
reasons I went the DIY path is so I can fit 2x 40” membranes under starboard 
stern tube.   The other thing is, because space requirement has such high 
impact on decision process, people opt for smaller WM which has smaller 
membrane(s), which produces less product output.  Now you need to run it longer 
and consume more energy.   On the other hand WMs need to be run.  So if you are 
prepared to spend the energy, running smaller(20”)  membrane(s) twice as long 
keeps them less prone to microbial growth. So long as you run it and flush it 
every week.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.

 

I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.

 

Bob 

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
$100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.

 

Dan

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Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I'm sort of in a same boat.  I can't log into photoalbum to contact Mark
Janda.  Retrieve password or register gives me a PHP error.  I would be
interested in  Garhauer solid vang and fittings.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

Stu, I'd appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James' message prompted
me to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a
propane locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol
stove on my boat to propane.

 

Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance
you know him and can get him to contact James and me?

 

BTW, Stu: My password to the Photo Album site got lost in a hard drive crash
some months ago. When I tried the link for a lost password on the login
screen for the classifieds this morning, I got an error message. Is that
part of the problem you are addressing?

 

And BTW, everyone: A friend with a 38 Landfall wants to convert the CNG
installation installed by the PO to LP. I seem to recall that some time ago
one of the listers had an LP tank enclosure designed for installation under
the seat of a 38LF (which would not fit the space available in my 38-2). If
you are still on the list and have the enclosure, let me know and my friend
will be in touch.

 

And BTW, while I'm thinking of it: While converting to LP is on the project
list (I already have the stove), I am still using the 40 year old Galley
Maid pressurized alcohol stove. One of the burners developed a pinhole leak,
and when I took the burner to a local shop to have the leaking tube brazed,
they managed to close off the tube completely. Can anyone point me to a
source for burners and parts for these old stoves? Or has anyone got a
Galley Maid alcohol stove out in the garage that they would like to sell? 

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area of 
port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I thought 
I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll wait to dig 
stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this, but it needs to 
be done.  

Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s Fiberglass 
sells it.  

   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

On my 1981 C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the windlass I 
found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood reinforcement 
about 3" wide.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

 

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.

 

If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle

  _  

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Petar;

 

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2

Petar


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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You are talking about taking almost 40AH from your house bank to take a 15 
minute shower.  If your bank is 200AH that’s a 20%.   Not sure if you have 
flooded lead acids or AGMs, but they are around 300-500 cycles.  So it’s a safe 
bet that after 300-500 showers you need to buy new batteries.  If your bank is 
400AH like mine, you could potentially double the amount of showers.  Also 
400AH agm bank is more than 1000$.  

 

As Josh said, inverters are very lossy abut 30-40% of energy is lost.  In 
addition sinusoid produced is hardly that of a 120V residential AC supply.  
Granted heater is just a resistor but its unclear what kind of control 
mechanism and electronics they are using to monitor heating and overheating 
etc.  If things don’t seem to work as expected that would be my first point to 
check.

 

On the other hand, 12V heating elements are not powerfull enough for instant 
water.   You need about 2000W hating element at 12V.  I don’t believe that 
exists.   Few years ago I searched for 12V heating element replacement for 6 
gal seward products water heater.  I was able to buy 450W 12V element on ebay 
that I fitted into the tank instead of the AC element.  It never heated any 
water but I was not expecting it.  I am using to dump access wind generator 
power on sunny days when solars have already filled the house bank.   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

 

I did some rough math and it looks like you'll need ~38Ahrs of power for a 15 
minute shower.  Your inverter will be drawing 150amps through the supply wires 
and your alternator would have to recharge that amount.  With the stock 
alternator (35amps) it would take over and hour.  I do think I remember you 
having an upgraded alternator.  Of course the assumption was that the hot water 
was at full flow for the 15 minute duration.

The instant waterheater is just a resistive load.  It would be more efficient 
and possibly safer to eliminate the inverter from the picture.  It would take 
some electrical and electronics skills to re-engineer the unit to run on 12v 
instead of 120v.

That new water heater really is shockingly smaller.  You'll have to let us know 
how it turns out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 31, 2015 10:15 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

My hot water tank was failing as well and I’m in the middle of putting in a 
replacement — the hard part was getting the old one out of the tight space 
under the galley. 

 

I decided to go with an on-demand water heater which will either be powered by 
shore power or an inverter (2000W) while the engine is running. Here’s the one 
I picked: http://m.rakuten.com/product/263816304?listingid=337903396 

 =29963=pla_google_Zoro 

 

And here is old and new side-by-side: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/heaters.jpg 

 

I’ll try to finish it up over the next couple of weeks, but if not, it’ll be a 
quick winter project. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 





On Aug 30, 2015, at 11:13 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

In most of the little hot water tanks the anode is part of the hot water outlet 
nipple.  Follow the link for pictures of the tank rebuild I did. 

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 30, 2015 10:26 AM, "phorvati . via CnC-List"  
wrote:

And make sure you have zinc anodes.  Electrolysis will eat something.  

On Aug 29, 2015 8:51 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List"  wrote:

Put a meter on it and read what kind of voltage you are getting. 110V AC does 
not generally give little shocks. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 29 August 2015 at 16:15, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water tank.  
The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the heating 
element so I checked the element and it was fried.

I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water after 
about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing that I 
touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock.

The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating element 
and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked for 
continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or 

Re: Stus-List Survey Question

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Few places I know in RI include power washing in the haul out fee.  You
don't really get a breakdown of cost. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2015 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Survey Question

 

In North Carolina, and when I was in the Philadelphia area before moving
here, the haul out includes haul, pressure wash, block, store for up to 2
weeks, and relaunch. So the pressure wash is included in the cost of the
haul out. Which runs $8 per foot locally.

 

JUST THIS June I had a short haul on my 38. Had intended to do the bottom so
had planned for a 2 week haul out. But after the pressure washing (for which
the boat remains in the slings) the bottom was still in good shape (after 3
years and a couple of months, using Petit Ultima SR) so I changed the zincs,
did some other maintenance, cleaned the waterline stains, and the yard
relaunched and only charged me for a short haul at $4 per foot.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 9:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Stus-List Survey Question

 

Hi Guys,

 

Okay so I've got a survey with haulout scheduled for this coming Saturday.
during my conversation with the surveryor, he brought to light an
interesting point.  I had asked if he would be doing the sea trial before or
after haul out and he said that it would be better to do it after because if
the bottom were fouled, we wouldn't bet a good sea trial.  He said if haul
first and it is then we could get it cleaned, and I asked so, we could
clean it?  he said well you should talk to the broker.  So I did and he
said it common practice for the boat to be powerwashed on a haul out.  I
asked who would pay for that?  He said I would be responsible for that.  I
said so, if this thing fails inspection, I'll paying for the owners
powerwashing?  He said that it was common...

 

I'm thinking what $4 a foot to wash it, then haul it...  I knew I had to pay
for a haulout, but ...  is that really common to be on the hook for a power
washing?  I mean it is what it is I've just never seen this conversation
come up before...

 

Danny

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Re: Stus-List plumbing...

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Shark stuff is on my todo list.  I have the same happen all the time.  I made 
it a point to shut off pressure domestic water while motoring.  

 

But my setup is a bit unusual and not per recommendation of Seaward, 
manufacturer of my hot water tank.  Although it works very well.  

I have converted my oil cooler (westerbeake 40) to have antifreeze run through 
it and then it goes to waterheater.  This setup makes domestic hot water in the 
high 90F range after 15 minutes under way and after about 30 minutes at anchor. 
 On the other hand, it gets very hot if I motor long hours.  To a point where 
hot side hose comes off at the waterheater, prompting me to turn the pressure 
off when motoring.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing...

 

shark bite connectors and pex tubing have worked extremely well in my house for 
the last 8 years...not a single leak problem and I have well over 100 sharkbite 
connections in the system...pex should be great for potable water on a boat too




Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another “aneurysm” 
to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater while motoring 
last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures regarding my water 
system.

 

Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to replace 
it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition to the Sea 
Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at the snap-together 
Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I recall, there have been 
comments from other listers about this system.  I’m tempted to go this route 
due to the fact that my system is pretty simple, and the easy availability and 
relatively low cost from Home Depot (as opposed to someplace like West Marine, 
where it says “boat” on it and costs twice as much).

 

Comments, please?

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 


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Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2.  It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid.

I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end.  Crack is
pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal.  

I’m weighing in the following options

1.   Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no
sailing this weekend)

2.   Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have
spare ¼” wire rope.  

3.   Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay.
Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. 

 

A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running
backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for
the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I
head out.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List winches

 

Harold

 

Larger diameter sheets maybe?

 

Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia?

 

Mike

Persistence

(currently in Cape Breton)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of patricia
barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: patricia barkley-higginbottom
Subject: Stus-List winches

 

Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3
which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three
wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable
fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common
problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement
part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new,
and only one winch has this problem.

Harold

Celtic Spirit

Hamilton, ON.

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 restoration project

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I would not call the person a FOOL.   If he/she knows what they are buying for 
4k and have the knowledge and are willing to put the work, that person is a 
genius.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2015 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PME
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 restoration project

 

Speaking of Fools, I just started documenting all of the little and big 
projects that I have done over the last 16 months since purchasing my “LF38 
fixer upper”.  For 14 months, the boat was hauled out, and I drove over an hour 
each way to the marina, nearly every weekend, working on some project.  During 
the week days, I spent too much time planning, preparing, and just plan 
thinking about boat projects.   She is now in her slip, and I am enjoying the 
sailing, but for the longest time I wondered if we were ever going to get to to 
this point.

 

I am using a blog for the online documentation.  I started it a few weeks ago, 
back dating the entries of various projects.  It is still incomplete, a bit 
green, and I’m sure spotted with grammatical errors.  

 

The easiest way to navigate the site is to use the “Projects” link under Pages 
on the right side of the main page.

 

   http://svjohannarose.blogspot.comsvJohannaRose.blogspot.com

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 

On Jul 29, 2015, at 12:15 PM, PME dre...@gmail.com wrote:

 

 

Yea, there’s likely some FOOL thinking what a great deal and what a fun project 
that would be to fix her up.   And before we know it,  he/she will be posting 
on the list….

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 

On Jul 29, 2015, at 10:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 10:53:43 -0400
From: Robert Boyer  mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com dainyr...@icloud.com
To:  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
Message-ID:  mailto:0edac2a6-516e-4092-a26a-8ed592a5a...@icloud.com 
0edac2a6-516e-4092-a26a-8ed592a5a...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

It's pretty sad when you can buy a 38-foot CC for less money than we pay for a 
slip rental for one year!







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nate 
Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2015 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness
Subject: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAILBOAT-C-amp-C-LANDFALL-38-039-/131565358722? 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAILBOAT-C-amp-C-LANDFALL-38-039-/131565358722?_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
 _trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

it says soft deck spot, but if thats all, yikes...

Nate


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Re: Stus-List hypalon glue

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Contact cement should  work as well but best to buy the real glue. 

 

Ive done a lot of patching on PVC and hypalon. In my experience it needs the 
following to guarantee the bond.

1.   Clean sanded surface(both)

2.   MEK to soften the hypalon before applying the glue(aceton dries too 
quick)

3.   Dry day with no humidity

4.   You cannot apply the patch or d-ring too soon.  Let the first coat 
completely dry up.

5.   Apply second thinner coat and let it get very tacky.  

6.   Then apply the patch and squeeze out any excess glue.

7.   If you can maintain pressure that’s even better.  Ive had good results 
without pressure.

Every time I find myself squeezing out too much excess glue, it means I was not 
patient in waiting for glue to dry before applying the patch.  I just did a 12” 
by 8” patch on the bow of my AB to protect against painter rubbing, dock 
splinters, and other boats rubbing during these busy few weeks of music 
festivals in Newport.  It feels like anything that floats, seaworthy or not 
(has nails and splinters sticking out) is tied up at kings park dinghy dock in 
anticipation of Folk festival.One day I’ll come home to a punctured tube. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 7:08 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List hypalon glue

 

So, I bought the $50. NRS hypalon glue and accelerator. I used it to attach D 
ring pads to my hypalon inflatable. The D rings attached to the davit lines - 
one port and one starboard near the bow. Didn't hold. Don't want to spend 
another $50 on glue - that's 1/8 the price of the entire dink. Thinkin' about 
trying weldwood contact cement. Toluol based, supposed to adhere to neoprene 
and rubber. Will it work?

 

Dan Sheer

Pegathy LF 38

Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 

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Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Update, 

I pulled the suction tube and found the strainer to be gummed up.  I am almost 
certain this was the cause.  So my hypothesis is that in high seas and full 
RPMs debris got stirred up from the bottom of the tank and clogged the mesh at 
the bottom of pickup tube.  After stopping the engine and adding 5 more gallons 
from jerry can it’s likely that debris got  loose and freed up the filter mesh 
enough to allow me to bleed and start the engine.  

So as per one your recommendations, I cut the strainer part of the pickup tube. 
 I will just look at primary fuel filter for signs of gumming up.  The tube 
itself is of flexible rubber or plastic material so it had no holes or 
corrosion.  That material is obviously not dissolvable as I’ve had it since I 
owned the boat, and it’s still in good condition.  

 

On another note, my fuel sender stopped working indicating always empty.  After 
ohming out the terminals at the top of the tank, I discovered that it was the 
variable resistance mechanism that is sitting in the tank.  Ended up ordering a 
new one that has fuel return fitting on it.  

 

While at it, I made sure that air vent hose is clear and free of clogging.  

 

Anyone know what minimum size intake fuel line should be for a 40HP diesel.  
W40?  I am just wondering if that line is too small so at high RPM engine might 
be starving.   It appears to be either 3/16” or ¼”.  I have to double check.  

 

Thanks.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 


On Jul 10, 2015, at 12:40, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Update:

So half tank gauge reading was about half tank.  After another 5Gal jerry can I 
was full to the top.  So two 5gal cans got me to the top.  Tank is 20 gallons.  
I did not pull the tube yet.   

 

Not sure if this matters, but I noticed that my return line form injection pump 
Tees into the vent line just before it goes to the tank.  I opted to do this 
since I didn’t have another hole in the tank.  It used to be a gasoline engine 
tank.  And those don’t have return.  

 

Heading to block again tonight after work.  No wind and seas are lot calmer.  
It will be a straight 4h motorsail.

Once I get there, fuel level in the tank will be down enough to pull the pickup 
tube and see how low it goes.  Does anyone know if I need to bleed the 
injectors again after disconnecting the fuel line at the tank to inspect the 
pickup tube?  My intuition says yes.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Peter,

 

How low did the gauge read?  How much did you think you had before adding the 5 
gallons?  What did it read after? Did you top it off and see of the numbers 
added up?  

I agree it sounds like a plumbing issue with the vent or pickup.  I hope your 
access to the tank is better than mine!

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

So if the pickup was blocked, why on both occasions after bleeding(once in calm 
water and second time in rough water but after adding 5 more gallons to the 
tank) it ran without a problem for hours, 2nd time in the same rough seas.  

 

The tank was out (dried out and inspected) over the winter in 2011/2012.   So 
was the pickup and sender at which time I don’t remember seeing any signs of 
corrosion etc.  It might be good to mention that prior to 2012, I had atomic 4 
(gasoline) engine.  I put westrerbeake in the spring of 2012 after a full 
rebuild.  I kept the tank.  Hoses were all new.   My primary is the Racor 230R 
Diesel Spin-On Series filter/water separator.  I change that and secondary 
filter every commissioning.  No signs of water whatsoever.  Also fuel that 
comes out while bleeding is clean.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Or the pickup becomes blocked, and air gets sucked in elsewhere in the fuel 
system.  

 

Paul Fountain

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2015 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Petar — it might be that the fuel pickup tube is corroded, and either doesn’t 
drop as far down into the fuel as it should/used to, or you have some pits in 
it above the half-tank level that allow air it.  Sounds like time to pull and 
check it.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul

Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Update:

So half tank gauge reading was about half tank.  After another 5Gal jerry can I 
was full to the top.  So two 5gal cans got me to the top.  Tank is 20 gallons.  
I did not pull the tube yet.   

 

Not sure if this matters, but I noticed that my return line form injection pump 
Tees into the vent line just before it goes to the tank.  I opted to do this 
since I didn’t have another hole in the tank.  It used to be a gasoline engine 
tank.  And those don’t have return.  

 

Heading to block again tonight after work.  No wind and seas are lot calmer.  
It will be a straight 4h motorsail.

Once I get there, fuel level in the tank will be down enough to pull the pickup 
tube and see how low it goes.  Does anyone know if I need to bleed the 
injectors again after disconnecting the fuel line at the tank to inspect the 
pickup tube?  My intuition says yes.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Peter,

 

How low did the gauge read?  How much did you think you had before adding the 5 
gallons?  What did it read after? Did you top it off and see of the numbers 
added up?  

I agree it sounds like a plumbing issue with the vent or pickup.  I hope your 
access to the tank is better than mine!

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

So if the pickup was blocked, why on both occasions after bleeding(once in calm 
water and second time in rough water but after adding 5 more gallons to the 
tank) it ran without a problem for hours, 2nd time in the same rough seas.  

 

The tank was out (dried out and inspected) over the winter in 2011/2012.   So 
was the pickup and sender at which time I don’t remember seeing any signs of 
corrosion etc.  It might be good to mention that prior to 2012, I had atomic 4 
(gasoline) engine.  I put westrerbeake in the spring of 2012 after a full 
rebuild.  I kept the tank.  Hoses were all new.   My primary is the Racor 230R 
Diesel Spin-On Series filter/water separator.  I change that and secondary 
filter every commissioning.  No signs of water whatsoever.  Also fuel that 
comes out while bleeding is clean.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Or the pickup becomes blocked, and air gets sucked in elsewhere in the fuel 
system.  

 

Paul Fountain

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2015 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Petar — it might be that the fuel pickup tube is corroded, and either doesn’t 
drop as far down into the fuel as it should/used to, or you have some pits in 
it above the half-tank level that allow air it.  Sounds like time to pull and 
check it.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 6, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row.  

 

Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right where 
seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in air and 
dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to travel), second 
time with no wind but large confused seas.  

The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.   
Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot 
swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same 
conditions. 

 

I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although I’ve 
been using it the past 3-4 years.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row.  

 

Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right where 
seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in air and 
dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to travel), second 
time with no wind but large confused seas.  

The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.   
Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot 
swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same 
conditions. 

 

I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although I’ve 
been using it the past 3-4 years.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So if the pickup was blocked, why on both occasions after bleeding(once in calm 
water and second time in rough water but after adding 5 more gallons to the 
tank) it ran without a problem for hours, 2nd time in the same rough seas.  

 

The tank was out (dried out and inspected) over the winter in 2011/2012.   So 
was the pickup and sender at which time I don’t remember seeing any signs of 
corrosion etc.  It might be good to mention that prior to 2012, I had atomic 4 
(gasoline) engine.  I put westrerbeake in the spring of 2012 after a full 
rebuild.  I kept the tank.  Hoses were all new.   My primary is the Racor 230R 
Diesel Spin-On Series filter/water separator.  I change that and secondary 
filter every commissioning.  No signs of water whatsoever.  Also fuel that 
comes out while bleeding is clean.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Or the pickup becomes blocked, and air gets sucked in elsewhere in the fuel 
system.  

 

Paul Fountain

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2015 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Petar — it might be that the fuel pickup tube is corroded, and either doesn’t 
drop as far down into the fuel as it should/used to, or you have some pits in 
it above the half-tank level that allow air it.  Sounds like time to pull and 
check it.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 6, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row.  

 

Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right where 
seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in air and 
dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to travel), second 
time with no wind but large confused seas.  

The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.   
Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot 
swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same 
conditions. 

 

I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although I’ve 
been using it the past 3-4 years.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

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Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So my gage is a bit off, it was showing half tank both times when engine died. 
But 5 gallon jerry can brought the needle to near full.  Tank is 20 gallons.   
When needle is at full, I can add another half of the jerry can before I 
overfill (diesel starts coming out the air vent).  This are observations from 
past 3 years.  

I will repeat that to confirm.

On a another note, a friend was telling me about dividers inside a tank to 
prevent fuel from stirring up too much and that gasoline tanks do not have 
this, where as diesel tanks do.  Tank I have was originally used for gasoline 
engine so that might be something.  Not sure if anyone can confirm or deny 
this. 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Peter,

 

How low did the gauge read?  How much did you think you had before adding the 5 
gallons?  What did it read after? Did you top it off and see of the numbers 
added up?  

I agree it sounds like a plumbing issue with the vent or pickup.  I hope your 
access to the tank is better than mine!

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

So if the pickup was blocked, why on both occasions after bleeding(once in calm 
water and second time in rough water but after adding 5 more gallons to the 
tank) it ran without a problem for hours, 2nd time in the same rough seas.  

 

The tank was out (dried out and inspected) over the winter in 2011/2012.   So 
was the pickup and sender at which time I don’t remember seeing any signs of 
corrosion etc.  It might be good to mention that prior to 2012, I had atomic 4 
(gasoline) engine.  I put westrerbeake in the spring of 2012 after a full 
rebuild.  I kept the tank.  Hoses were all new.   My primary is the Racor 230R 
Diesel Spin-On Series filter/water separator.  I change that and secondary 
filter every commissioning.  No signs of water whatsoever.  Also fuel that 
comes out while bleeding is clean.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Or the pickup becomes blocked, and air gets sucked in elsewhere in the fuel 
system.  

 

Paul Fountain

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2015 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

 

Petar — it might be that the fuel pickup tube is corroded, and either doesn’t 
drop as far down into the fuel as it should/used to, or you have some pits in 
it above the half-tank level that allow air it.  Sounds like time to pull and 
check it.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 6, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row.  

 

Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right where 
seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in air and 
dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to travel), second 
time with no wind but large confused seas.  

The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.   
Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot 
swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same 
conditions. 

 

I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although I’ve 
been using it the past 3-4 years.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List Main sail slides

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
the mast track. 

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail 
having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the main 
down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail this 
year.   

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via stainless 
shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact that I never 
converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.  

 

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this 

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: CC List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

 

Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to lubricate  the 
threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight enough 
because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell getting it 
apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed any 

Josh

On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
the fuel dissolves teflon tape.

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal.

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:




Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
seal the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may help but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque.

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever replaced 
an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

 


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Stus-List Cabin Top traveller on 38Mk II

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Has anyone (DIY) installed a second mainsheet traveler on cabin top, or moved 
the traveler to cabin top?  I know that few listers have both cockpit and cabin 
top travelers, was that factory installed?  For cruising and living aboard CC 
38, I find cockpit traveler to be very annoying and always in a way,  however 
the backing is very solid.  Cabin top on the other hand does not look very 
sturdy as a way to provide mainsheet traveler attachment.  

   

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Top traveller on 38Mk II

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

This is so true Ed. Thanks. This is what I was fearing.  You need attachment to 
the bulkheads/superstructure.

That’s  why the one year when my babystay attachment started to give way down 
in the head, I noticed that the entire cabin top forward of the mast was 
actually deflecting upwards. 

For where traveler needs to be, I will have to think how to achieve this.   
 

  

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: Edward Levert [mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 11:43 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Top traveller on 38Mk II

 

My 1981 CC 34 with cabin top traveler has stainless steel posts which 
apparently tie the traveler bases to the bulkheads in front of the nav station 
and stove. I would therefore be cautious of the loads that are generated at the 
cabin top without any internal strengthening. Recall that decks deflected 
upwards at the mast collar due to halyard tensioning on boats prior to the tie 
in with straps from the collar to the mast. 

 

Ed 

CC 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans, La.

 

On Mon, Mar 30, 2015 at 10:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Peter,

I've seen boats with the conversion.  A pier neighbor years ago did it on a 
Cape Dory.  He had Garhauer build it for him.  

Garhauer makes the complete traveler system or just the mounting brackets (UR-1 
or UR-2) with pivoting bases to match the crown of the cabintop.

More importantly, my buddy up the bayou has a 35-1 with a cabintop traveler so 
I know it can be done.

I had to strengthen the cabintop on my 35-1 when I upgraded the halyard 
winches.  There wasn't much beef there.  

The issue may be any gap between the headliner and the underside of the 
cabintop.  You can easily put backing plates behind the brackets under the 
headliner but there might be a bit of crush around the plates.  I put some 
aluminum backing plate under a couple of cabintop winches on a Catalina last 
year.  They came out looking nice.  

If you need aluminum plate, there are a couple vendors on eBay that are 
reasonable and fast.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Mar 30, 2015 at 9:41 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi everyone,

Has anyone (DIY) installed a second mainsheet traveler on cabin top, or moved 
the traveler to cabin top?  I know that few listers have both cockpit and cabin 
top travelers, was that factory installed?  For cruising and living aboard CC 
38, I find cockpit traveler to be very annoying and always in a way,  however 
the backing is very solid.  Cabin top on the other hand does not look very 
sturdy as a way to provide mainsheet traveler attachment.  

   

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 


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Re: Stus-List FYI 5200

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Few years back I bought one of those, forgot if it was from Lowes or HD, and
it was rock solid when I tried to use it.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List FYI 5200

 

A real find, I think - just discovered tubes of 5200 at Lowes for only 12
bucks.

Might not be at every store, but . . .

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39 Erie PA

 

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Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

It was due to the switch, it was brand new 10A panel mount toggle switch.  I 
had re-wired my entire boat prior to my fridge installation.  I kept the panel 
but put new switches and panel mount AGC fuse holders next to each.  When you 
say “too many other items on it”, it sounds to me like you are worried about 
positive feed to the panel.   Old CC 38 wiring is not designed for what we 
install on the boat nowdays.  So that would be a good place to look if you run 
into problems. 

I would have a DMM handy and once you’re done and fire up the fridge, measure 
voltage on terminals at the Danfoss.  Load has to be running for you to measure 
voltage drop.  It might not be easy with the way most people connect their 
wires because terminals end up getting covered.  On mine, I have a terminal 
block on the bulkhead within 6 inches of my fridge.  Instead of using those 
female crimp terminals to connect to Compressor, I soldered marine wire to 
Compressor + and -, and on the other end of 6” wire I put ring type crimp 
terminal to connect to terminal block.  So these “pigtails” are part of the 
compressor but I never have to worry about that connection on the compressor, 
which in my case is hard to reach and prone to connectivity issues, voltage 
drops, vibrating off, etc etc.   If your drop is 0.5V to 1V when compressor is 
running that might be an issue.  When your battery is at say 12.3V, compressor 
will see 11.3V-11.7V and will shut the fridge off “to preserve the battery” .  
I’m not sure if and at what voltage isotherm set the cutoff point.  To avoid 
this, run fresh line, like you said AWG10 all the way to a known “good” node.  
If you don’t know conditions of your positive wire between battery terminal and 
panel mounted switch for the fridge, then run a fresh 10AWG from panel to a 
high buss bar capable of feeding everything that is connected to it.  Every 
load should be appropriately fused.  So 100Amp fuse will likely not protect 
against fire causing fault caused by your fridge.  

  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: Joe Scott [mailto:joseph.sco...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 7:39 PM
To: Petar Horvatic
Cc: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

 

Thanks, I bought an Isotherm 2501 which also has a BD50 compressor.  I was 
planning 10AWG wiring and running back to the ground bus bar.  I will keep in 
mind what you experienced with the main panel if I have issues although the PO 
took a lot of stuff off of the main panel.  Do you think you lost voltage due 
to the age of the panel or too many other items on it.  The PO of my boat put a 
100 amp line to a blue sea fuse panel at the nav station for all the 
electronics on the boat.

 

Thanks

 

Joe

On Mar 12, 2015, at 10:06 AM, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote:

 

Hi Joe,

Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module 
was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor.  Make sure 
your fridge wires are good gauge.  I ended up running 2x10AWG.  Two 10AWG for 
positive and two for return.  Any by return I mean not just to a nearest 
ground.  Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar.  My main culprit 
for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. 
After few months of headaches and troubleshooting,  I ended up re-purposing the 
switch.  Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install in the 
spring and take out in the fall.  For me, there is no other way to shut off the 
fridge.  The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch was the main 
culprit.  I left it as it could only help.  

Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your 
loads. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM
To: Joseph Scott; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

 

This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
Plus.

 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover

 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus

Dennis C.

 

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
project.

Sent from my iPad


 On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass  mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net 
 rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the 

Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module 
was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor.  Make sure 
your fridge wires are good gauge.  I ended up running 2x10AWG.  Two 10AWG for 
positive and two for return.  Any by return I mean not just to a nearest 
ground.  Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar.  My main culprit 
for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. 
After few months of headaches and troubleshooting,  I ended up re-purposing the 
switch.  Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install in the 
spring and take out in the fall.  For me, there is no other way to shut off the 
fridge.  The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch was the main 
culprit.  I left it as it could only help.  

Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your 
loads. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM
To: Joseph Scott; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

 

This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost 
Plus.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus

Dennis C.

 

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was 
expecting a bar or something.  Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical 
project.

Sent from my iPad


 On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward,
 and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If
 different from yours, just ignore this email.)

 On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the
 top you should see two bolts sticking out about an inch or two. One of
 these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One
 of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down
 to the battery wire connection on the engine block.

 The other bolt on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all
 switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point.


 Rick Brass
 Imzadi  1976 CC 38 mk 2
 Hull # 049
 Washington, NC



 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
 Scott via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

 Hey All

 I am looking at installing a DC refrig system.  The old one I pulled out was
 AC so I need  to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it
 a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative
 or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel.  Shouldn't it be there
 somewhere?

 Thanks

 Joe

 Sent from my
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Re: Stus-List Boat Review: CC 30 - SAIL Magazine

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hauled out at Stanleys in Barrington RI for the winter.   

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Boat Review: CC 30 - SAIL Magazine

 

For your reading pleasure: 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/sailboat-reviews/new-boat-cc-30-0

 

Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Maps could be off with respect to GPS so into an unknown small harbor or
anywhere on the banks in the Bahamas I always navigate by looking at water
color and spotting coral heads.  You also don't want to be traveling across
the banks too early if you're heading east due to sun glare.  Same thing for
going west in late afternoon.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 11:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

 

The charter company from whom we rented the Tartan 37 we used for our trips
required a night crossing to Bimini (arriving in the morning) because of the
weird dog-leg entrance there, and the desire to see what the heck we were
going to run into in the daylight.   :^)   So we went out for a nice dinner
the night before, hit the Publix store to provision at 10pm and left at
midnight.  We could just start to see the tops of palm trees and the tower
at daybreak; by the time the sun was fully up, we were approaching the
entrance channel and had good visibility.

 

So even in the days of GPS, as far as I'm concerned it's still a good idea
to NOT enter an unfamiliar harbor at night.   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

 

On Jan 29, 2015, at 9:57 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
wrote:





And when you leave Florida for Bimini or the Banks, leaving at night allows
you to pick up the lights on the big radio tower on Bimini so you know how
far you got pushed by the stream and then when you get there the sun is up
so you can make your way in. 

I guess I'm dating myself as that isn't necessary in these days of GPS and
plotters.

Andy 

CC 40

Peregrine

 

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Re: Stus-List Pics of my mast head and spreaders

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I have a very similar mast on my boat.

I have issues with main halyard getting friction at the masthead sheave due
to topping lift attachment.  Its making mast hard to hoist.  You can see the
hole for it in your first pic.  I am thinking about getting rid of topping
lift or relocating for this reason.  

Your lowers are a mummy.   Why would anyone ever tape them like that?  The
less you tape the less stagnant water gets trapped in there to corrode
stainless or oxidize aluminum.   Water will find a way in, once you tape it,
you just trap it.   What I found to work good, is squirt generous amounts of
silicone on the cotter pin to cover sharp edges.  Other than that, I try not
to tape anything.  Not any more for the reasons you’ll find once you take
that mummy apart.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Pics of my mast head and spreaders

 

I had committed a couple weeks ago to take some pics of my halyard sheaves
among other things for another lister. I posted some that might be helpful.

 

There are also pics of my spreaders. My lowers seem to be in need of repair
or replacement. I obviously need to clean off the protective tape and expose
the ends / turnbuckles, etc. but there seems to be a fair amount of
corrosion, even cracking. When the weather improves a bit I will head back
down to get a better look. I would consider it a huge favor for someone with
some experience in the review of rigging to take a look and comment. I hope
these links work. It was a little more work than it should seem to be to get
these on Google Drive.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLRXhXbUE3eUo4X0U/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLaXQyTExEbEJybzg/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLc3NHS0hIY2syXzA/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLUWhvUmVxZUJrTEk/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLTGpsdXJrUm52LXM/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLLTgzOTY0TDhUOE0/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLT0tyMmFIQXl6eWc/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLSnMtUlBIem9NWm8/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLZ21uY05EWVJraDQ/view?usp=sharin
g

 

Skip

1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner

On the hard in walpole

Mast in Portsmouth, RI

 

bstrat...@falconnect.com

 

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Re: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Are you planning on purchasing off the shelf 12V refrigeration kit or building 
your own?

When you live aboard do you plan to sail or just stay in one place?

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wyand 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2015 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:

 

Hello all, I am looking at a CC 36 pretty seriously for a liveable boat. I 
think it will work out for me, but am looking at a few things that may need to 
be done to make the boat comfortable for year round living aboard. 

1.) Icebox refrigeration, what size is the icebox? I am trying to figure out a 
plan for refrigeration. Anyone that has done this, advice woudl be helpful. 

2.) How can you search the list? Seems you can get the past posts in bulk but I 
don't see any useful search function. 

I am sure I will have lots of questions if I go through with the perchance. 

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Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on the stands.

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi all, I have a question on boat stands and aft tilting of the boat while
on the hard.  

I find water drainage on most CC designs to be horrible.  I've tackled the
issues many times but this one keeps coming back to haunt me.  

When the boat is in water, a while back I made drain holes at what appeared
to be the lowest point on deck.  So when boat is properly loaded and
equipped, the deck drains pretty good.  

Well all that changes once the boat is out of the water as the yard props it
so that everything is tilting aft.  So now water collects about few feet
further aft.   Year after year this tilting changes based on how they setup
the stands at the time of haulout.  No matter what you do (I've drilled
pilot holes in aluminum toerail),  I  always have submerged pulpit
stanchions bases.  For me these carry a significant load(solar panels,
support the wind generator and 15HP outboard on pulpit mount)  Well in the
winter, ice works the base screws on stanchions and before you know it you
get leaks and wet core.   

 

I would love to prop the aft stands and lower the forward ones so that the
boats sits more level and the water collects where my drain holes are.  Has
anyone done this or will doing this disturb  how the keel sits on the wooden
blocks?

My thought was to just prop the aft ones but then I realized that they all
need to be adjusted slightly.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I have repowered with Westerbeke 40 4-108 3 years ago.  Since then, I've
been using exclusively gas station diesel that I get from jerry cans.
Simply because it's cheaper.  So far I have not had any signs of issues.
Winterizing procedure involves adding diesel stabilizer and replacing both
fuel filters.  I try to keep the tank as full as possible to eliminate
condensation.  This keeps me away from mega yachts at the Newport fuel
docks, and saves me few $$.   If anything, marina diesel fuel is more prone
to having issues unless it's a high traffic fuel dock.  If you get diesel
from a high traffic truck stop fuel station, you are more likely to get good
quality diesel that was not sitting for too long. 
I am curious what other think in terms of the two sources of diesel. 


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel

I was reading an article that made reference to 'marine diesel fuel' 
versus 'diesel fuel' .  The article did not go into detail as to whether or
not there is actually a difference between the two.  I always thought that a
'diesel engine' whether marine or otherwise burned the same fuel

Was this simply the 'writer's interpretation' in that diesel used for marine
purposes is somehow different from diesel used for say, diesel powered
automobiles?

This is probably a stupid question and if so, tell me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

I think your idea makes sense.   In fact my tank has two fittings and two PVC 
pipes that reach down to the deep section of a V-birth shaped holding tank.   
One for deck and one for overboard marcerator pump.  No matter what sanitation 
hose you use, it will permeate smell.  Mine were replaced in 2004, and I 
started getting complaints by 2009.  

Sanitation is on my list this winter.  We live aboard in the summer and the 
smell is driving my girlfriend crazy, especially if we don’t pump out weekly.  
I was told through numerous industry folks and liveaboards to replace 
sanitation hose with PVC.  To keep PVC from cracking,  use small section of 
sanitation hose at the ends of each run to absorb vibration.   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose

 

All,

 

My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the 
deck fitting.  Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the bottom of 
the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry?

 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Not necessarily.  It all depends on what your intended use is and your level of 
comfort.   

 

For instance, I once left Sundowner un-attended in Puerto Rico at anchor.  What 
was initially intended to be few weeks un-attended,  turned out to be 18 months 
due to unplanned divorce and my son’s custody battle here in Rhode Island.   
Granted, I went to check  on things every 6 months for 1 week at the time.  But 
even at that, I consider myself very lucky that Sundowner was still there 18 
months later and after 2 hurricanes went through the anchorage.  Bilge pumps 
and their wiring are deeply etched into my brain.  I spent many sleepless 
nights thinking about them and I will forever look at them from a different 
point of view.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 



 

From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:20 AM
To: 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List CC smile fix - how I did it

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

And if you are in the northern climate and are pulling the boat out for the
winter, add a garboard drain plug to let water out of the bildge before it
freezes and causes more cracks.

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI


 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 9:26 AM
To: Dan Mccorison; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Bill Bina
Subject: Stus-List CC smile fix - how I did it

Dan:

Congratulations on your new boat and welcome to the CC list. Just about 
anything you need advice on, you can get it here.

In my opinion, Bill Bina has provided you with one of the best methods 
to deal with the 'CC smile'.  It is pretty much the way we dealt with 
ours when we acquired our boat in 2006.  Nine (9) sailing seasons later, 
and there is no evidence of the 'smile'.

Previously, we did the same thing when we acquired a Kirby 25 before the 
CC 32 and the 'smile' never reappeared.

Good luck with your boat.  By the way, where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/24 8:04 AM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List wrote:
 Thanks bill

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 24, 2014, at 5:46 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed,
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way along
the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.

 Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets that
I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued torque
wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the sockets and
stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck mechanics use
this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools besides Snap-On,
which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep sockets from NAPA
autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, because those big
deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized bolts.

 Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. Next
step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the consistency of
peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to clean an area all
the way around extending about 10 above and 12 below the joint, which I
then primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. Followed that with
several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly thickened epoxy and
wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches above and below the joint.
Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of interprotect 2000 to seal the
surface. Reapplied the first coat of micron extra before the final coat of
interprotect cured. Previously I had tried sealing the joint with various
fillers including 5200, 4200, Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got
to try many fillers because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a
single season.

 Bill Bina

 On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:
 I just bought a 1975 CC 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just
wondering what is the best product to use to fix the CC smile. Also what is
the procedure to go about fixing it?

 Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Graveyard of the atlantic claims another

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

This time tug sank off Point Judith, barge still attached to it. 

http://www.providencejournal.com/news/police-fire/20141023-barge-still-offsh
ore-after-rescue-of-tugboat-crew.ece

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Newport Harbor mooring wanted

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I don't think anyone will ask you anything.  The mooring field is getting
empty.  I'm getting hauled this week.  

However ever since that cha-cha incident (long story), Newport has passed
this new ordinance where HB is monitoring every boat on a daily basis.  That
has made some of the on-the-hook live-aboard folks unhappy.  They organized
occupy Newport harbor event about a month ago.  I'm not sure how it went.
My mooring is commercial which means I can have anyone stay there paying or
not.  I don't have my contract in front of me but I believe its through
November.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 8:08 AM
To: phorv...@gmail.com
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Newport Harbor mooring wanted

 

Hi Peter,

Thanks again for the offer!

 

I wrote you offline but, I'm not sure if my emails are getting through.  I
had another lister say he had never gotten my offline messages.  In fact, I
still don't know if he got them...  _/
http://webmail.juno.com/i2/rte/em/what_smile.gif |_

 

Anyway,  Is there anything I would need to know?  Anyone I would should
notify or speak with about using the mooring?

 

Danny



-- Original Message --
From: Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com
To: 'Danny Haughey' djhaug...@juno.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List  Newport Harbor mooring wanted
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 17:14:03 -0400

You are welcome to grab mine #284. South west corner of main harbor.Let
me know if you need more details..

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2014 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Newport Harbor mooring wanted

 

 

Hey,

 

Would anyone know of a mooring I might be able to use for a couple of weeks.
I'm planning on Having Lolita hauled by Casey's Marina and brought to my
house but he has The 17th of November available.  Instead of being locked
into the weekend of the 15th  16th,  I was thinking I could maybe get use
of a mooring to open up the Possibility of moving it this weekend as the
weather is looking pretty good so far and maybe we could sail Narragansett
bay a little in the meantime.

 

I'm totally willing to pay for the priviledge.

 

Danny

Lolita

1973 Viking 33

Westport Point, MA (Maybe Newport, RI for a couple of weeks...)

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Re: Stus-List Newport Harbor mooring wanted

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You are welcome to grab mine #284. South west corner of main harbor.Let
me know if you need more details..

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2014 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Newport Harbor mooring wanted

 

 

Hey,

 

Would anyone know of a mooring I might be able to use for a couple of weeks.
I'm planning on Having Lolita hauled by Casey's Marina and brought to my
house but he has The 17th of November available.  Instead of being locked
into the weekend of the 15th  16th,  I was thinking I could maybe get use
of a mooring to open up the Possibility of moving it this weekend as the
weather is looking pretty good so far and maybe we could sail Narragansett
bay a little in the meantime.

 

I'm totally willing to pay for the priviledge.

 

Danny

Lolita

1973 Viking 33

Westport Point, MA (Maybe Newport, RI for a couple of weeks...)

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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I built one of these but using starboard instead of marine ply.  I also had
a bigger eye at the bottom to guide the line easier.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo167/knuterikt/mastClimber-2.jpg

 

I ascended once to the top this year, and few times to the 1st spreader.  My
girlfriend was there to belay the safety halyard for the way up and down.
But I was able to pull my weight without a problem.  It takes a bit getting
used to and always have a safety line.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

 

Listers,

 

Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my
list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. 

 

Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber,
and, if so, what did you use. 

 

There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical
Sailor, so it's on my mind.

 

And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the
mast. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 

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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I wonder if your pits were from not using it and then oxidation or
electrolysis cause carbon material to deteriorate.  The more you use it the
better the seal is as the carbon polishes itself out.  I had leakage when my
prop coupling was badly miss-aligned but once I fixed that, leakage went
away.  Don't forget to replace set screws every time you loosen them. I
installed mine new in 2004.  Had it out on 4-5 occasions at which time I
would soak everything in a tupperware container with WD40 for few days then
wipe it clean.  

Then I read this article.  
http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/technical/running-gear/dripless-shaft-s
eals/
  
And I realized that I was probably lucky that I never had a problem.  I am
due for whatever overhaul kit comes for it.  They don't specify the size and
thread on the set screw.  I have ordered a 25 pack from mcmaster 5/16-18 in
316SS, with a point set.  I am yet to see how they fit.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless
PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the
bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and
with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place
on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what
other PYI users do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full
engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon
flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward
until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped
the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and
there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI
recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked fine
this summer.  But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat,
and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing
anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at
the beginning of each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's
suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

A lot of people don't like the rod, but there are few nice things about it.
For instance, it does not let water in like the wire braid does at the
swage.  So there is no oxygen depleted water inside the fitting.  Unlike the
swage, where you never know the conditions of stainless inside, rod is
easily inspected by disassembling the stem balls from the turnbuckles or
tangs, provided they are not galled.   If you read up about it a bit, you
can magnaflux them for cracks and determine what needs replacement.  Tricky
part with rod is cold-forming the stem balls without cracks.  As Dennis
said, re-heading.  Not many riggers can do it.  And if it forms with cracks
after a few tries, you pretty much have to throw away the length of the stay
and start over.   I've seen few rod-rig boats with spreaders that are
asymmetrical or not bisecting the shrouds.  I suspect for this very reason.


If you decide to go with this boat,  and if you need someone, I'll send you
the contact of original CC rigger, he is in Fall River.  I had him come by
after I got nowhere with Hall Spars(besides giving them a lot of money).  My
rig was in the cradle one summer and we went over a lot of the points.  I
ended doing a lot of the work myself and he came by after to inspect it.
He also provided all the parts I needed so I didn't have to spend too much
time researching components.  This was back in '06 and I am getting ready to
take the mast down this fall again after close to 10k miles and 8 years.   

Either you spent a lot of money for someone else to deal with issues on your
boat, or you spend your own time to learn and know how to inspect, replace
and maintain your own systems.  Rig is no exception.  It requires attention
to detail and mistakes can be devastating.  But so can be mistakes with many
other boat systems.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Casciato via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:51 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

 

David:  Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Since you're in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
boats and riggers and such.  Find someone local and have them look at the
rig.

 

MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage and has the original rod rigging that came with
the boat.  My mast is, however, a Stearns' mast instead of the standard CC
one.  I have had my mast down several times in the past 16 years of
ownership and I've also had the rigging checked each time.  Regardless of
mast manufacturer, rod rigging is still a better option from my
perspective

 

To date (now I've really jinxed it) it is in fine shape and I expect it to
last a long time.

 

We race this boat so it gets more stress than usual cruising does and still
the rod is intact and healthy.

 

Just for thought.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

Incidentally.they are making new CC's right down the road from Newport
and you might drop in there to get an opinion.Principles there were
related to the CC production effort in RI back in the daythey should be
great resources for you locally..

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:57 AM
To: David Dawes; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

 

David, 

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the rig,
removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec shop.
You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it to an
X made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.  

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

 

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin to
pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.  Also
measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can't figure it
out.  So I started a new one.

 

 

Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
rigging.  This boat is run down so I don't expect a record of rigging
inspection or service.

 

A rigger friend recommended full replacement.

 

Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement cost
approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or too
heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.

 

I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
pleasure!

 

Many thanks,

 

David.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David Dawes

Captain

Newport, RI, 

Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Jack do you have an Ah meter, or battery monitor? 

That sounds like well over 1000$ investment in batteries.   You can 
accidentally kill any battery bank in a short span if you don’t know what’s 
coming and what’s coming out.  You could have had a leak or a charging source 
malfunction.  Battery monitors, the ones that show accumulated Ah are essential 
in knowing what you’re are doing to your batteries.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 11:41 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; CCList
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Same here with the AGM batteries. I installed 2 x 27  4 x 31 West Marine DC 
AGM and they were toast within 30 months. One of 6 would still hold a charge at 
the end. Back to gel for Honey in 2010 and no issues whatsoever and that is 
even after issues with the Ample Power alternator and it's diodes  rectifier 
bridge failure 

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
US12788

CC 39TM 




 

 

 

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I switched back to gel. I had too many issues with AGM batteries and golf carts 
don’t fit my battery locker.

If you do want AGMs, the sweet spot is Group 31s. Truckers use them for running 
stuff while parked, so they get produced in large quantities. The cheapest 31 
is a DuraCell labeled 31 at Sams Club that is really a Deka with a new sticker 
on it. The best AGMs, IMHO, are Lifeline and Odyssey. Lifeline is very 
expensive, but Odyssey makes the Sears Diehard Platinum AGM line for less money.

Golf carts are still the cheapest if you don’t race offshore and can use wet 
cells.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

CC 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Did you notice serious AH loss?  That’s too bad.  Batteries are getting 
expensive, solar panels are getting cheap.   So you can extend deep cycle 
battery life by cycling them at higher % capacity .  Like 100-75% as opposed to 
dipping down to 50% or whatever your preferred  discharge level might be.   But 
I combined my house banks into one.  4xTrojan AGM group 31.  I have a small 
wallmart starting battery that does just that drives the starter motor.

I was always told that AGMs get killed by high voltage.  But I didn’t notice 
that as my solar panels often drive them up to 16V.Their internal 
resistance is  very low so they don’t heat up much during charge or voercharge. 
 

Hope you get better luck this time. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: honeysail...@gmail.com [mailto:honeysail...@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 2:42 PM
To: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Hello Petar

 

Yes, I have the complete Ample Power System including the energy monitor. When 
I complained to Port Supply (West Marine's wholesale division) our account rep 
quietly indicated that they were having issues with the house brand AGM 
batteries and refunded 60% of the purchase price. I replaced all 6 batteries 
with deep cycle gel batteries and so far no issues. I can run all of our 
electronics and refrigeration for 48 hours straight on 1 bank before I have to 
switch banks. 

 

I use AGM batteries in my airplane and well as in 2 HD motorcycles and couldn't 
be happier, but the 6 purchased for my sail boat were a major disappointment.

 

Prior to the AGMs I used Rolls wet cell batteries and the lasted for well over 
10 years. 

 

FYI - We have owner our 1974 CC 39 TM since 1975 so needless to say I have 
been through a number of batteries and charging systems since '75 and the only 
disappointment was the durn AGM batteries

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
US12788

CC 39 TM
Savannah, GA




 

 

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote:

Jack do you have an Ah meter, or battery monitor? 

That sounds like well over 1000$ investment in batteries.   You can 
accidentally kill any battery bank in a short span if you don’t know what’s 
coming and what’s coming out.  You could have had a leak or a charging source 
malfunction.  Battery monitors, the ones that show accumulated Ah are essential 
in knowing what you’re are doing to your batteries.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 11:41 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; CCList
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Same here with the AGM batteries. I installed 2 x 27  4 x 31 West Marine DC 
AGM and they were toast within 30 months. One of 6 would still hold a charge at 
the end. Back to gel for Honey in 2010 and no issues whatsoever and that is 
even after issues with the Ample Power alternator and it's diodes  rectifier 
bridge failure 

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
US12788

CC 39TM 




 

 

 

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I switched back to gel. I had too many issues with AGM batteries and golf carts 
don’t fit my battery locker.

If you do want AGMs, the sweet spot is Group 31s. Truckers use them for running 
stuff while parked, so they get produced in large quantities. The cheapest 31 
is a DuraCell labeled 31 at Sams Club that is really a Deka with a new sticker 
on it. The best AGMs, IMHO, are Lifeline and Odyssey. Lifeline is very 
expensive, but Odyssey makes the Sears Diehard Platinum AGM line for less money.

Golf carts are still the cheapest if you don’t race offshore and can use wet 
cells.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

CC 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I have a solar controller.  BZ products.  There are couple of adjustment 
potentiometers on the board.  With the float potentiometer  at highest setting, 
all the way Clockwise, the voltage would get to 16V.  I keep it lower somewhere 
around 15V.  

BTW I hate how much cheaper solar panels and charge controllers have gotten.  I 
got killed for them back in 2004.  

On a sunny and windy day, I come back to the boat from work to see that I put 
20-25AH beyond full charge.  The battery monitor erases that as soon as the 
load overcomes charging amps, but I know that I am topped off on a daily basis. 
  

 

And on a side note, this article convinced me to not take the batteries home 
during winter storage. Not even to trickle charge them while on the boat.  
Instead just disconnect them from everything.   

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: Marek Dziedzic [mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 3:58 PM
To: Petar Horvatic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

From my experience and what I read about them, AGM batteries really don’t like 
high voltage (e.g. unregulated solar power charging) and to be left in a less 
then full state of charge for a longer time. 

 

So the AGM will (might?) work well, if you regularly charge them to full, 
either by solar charger or by connecting to shore power. Charging with the 
alternator usually does not work, because the absorption rate at the high end 
of capacity (SoC) is very slow. You would have to run the motor for hours in 
order to push the last 10-15% into the battery.

 

If you are using solar, I would recommend a decent charge controller. A GenaSun 
or Morning Star (both MPPT) would be my choice. They are a tad over the $30 
mentioned, but they are really good (and not _that_ expensive).

 

Marek

s/v “Legato”

in Ottawa

 

From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 3:34 PM

To: 'Jack Fitzgerald' mailto:j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Did you notice serious AH loss?  That’s too bad.  Batteries are getting 
expensive, solar panels are getting cheap.   So you can extend deep cycle 
battery life by cycling them at higher % capacity .  Like 100-75% as opposed to 
dipping down to 50% or whatever your preferred  discharge level might be.   But 
I combined my house banks into one.  4xTrojan AGM group 31.  I have a small 
wallmart starting battery that does just that drives the starter motor.

I was always told that AGMs get killed by high voltage.  But I didn’t notice 
that as my solar panels often drive them up to 16V.Their internal 
resistance is  very low so they don’t heat up much during charge or voercharge. 
 

Hope you get better luck this time. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: honeysail...@gmail.com [mailto:honeysail...@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 2:42 PM
To: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Hello Petar

 

Yes, I have the complete Ample Power System including the energy monitor. When 
I complained to Port Supply (West Marine's wholesale division) our account rep 
quietly indicated that they were having issues with the house brand AGM 
batteries and refunded 60% of the purchase price. I replaced all 6 batteries 
with deep cycle gel batteries and so far no issues. I can run all of our 
electronics and refrigeration for 48 hours straight on 1 bank before I have to 
switch banks. 

 

I use AGM batteries in my airplane and well as in 2 HD motorcycles and couldn't 
be happier, but the 6 purchased for my sail boat were a major disappointment.

 

Prior to the AGMs I used Rolls wet cell batteries and the lasted for well over 
10 years. 

 

FYI - We have owner our 1974 CC 39 TM since 1975 so needless to say I have 
been through a number of batteries and charging systems since '75 and the only 
disappointment was the durn AGM batteries

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
US12788

CC 39 TM
Savannah, GA




 

 

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote:

Jack do you have an Ah meter, or battery monitor? 

That sounds like well over 1000$ investment in batteries.   You can 
accidentally kill any battery bank in a short span if you don’t know what’s 
coming and what’s coming out.  You could have had a leak or a charging source 
malfunction.  Battery monitors, the ones that show accumulated Ah are essential 
in knowing what you’re are doing to your batteries.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 11:41 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; CCList
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

 

Same here

Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

15 minutes would be great on my wallet.  On those years when I take the mast
down, I do try to get the crane use to be as low as possible. Maybe John was
doing the same.   In preparation, I leave everything hand tight for the yard
the night before haul out.  Provided it's  not too windy.  Sails off, Boom
off, tie off all halyards so they are out of the way, loosen all turnbuckles
so they can be taken off by hand, straighten all cotter pins so workers can
pull them out by hand.  When all that is done, it is conceivable that mast
related crane work is less than half hour.  30 minutes times few guys at 90$
per hour,  ends up being not that bad.

One year I made a mistake of letting the yard do all of the work for me and
got a 1800$ mast decommissioning  bill.  This was about 15 years ago so I
imagine it would be even higher now.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Also, if someone could get my mast off in 15 minutes I would expect they
could do my bottom paint and zincs in 10 minutes and replace my engine in 5
minutes.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:29 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Exactly my expierience Joe. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sep 24, 2014 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

This must be a regional thing. Mast pulling is fairly rare in Maryland. I am
almost never hauled out during the winter, but the few times I have been the
yard didn't even ask about the mast.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:50 PM
To: 'Ron Ricci'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Let's se

 

Mast up = HUGE increase in windage and pressure brought to bear on cradle or
jack stand pads = increased issues of hull flexing / damage

Effective area of pad in contact with hull is about same as your hand
clenched in a fist

Pads are located in area of cored hull

 

Yard has purpose built mobile crane for masts with extending boom etc.
Takes about 15 minutes to pull

Yard staff is well seasoned and qualified

 

Get to thoroughly inspect mast, rigging, lights and instruments every year

 

Have stored with mast down for 30+ years - works for me

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 CC 34

Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Mine goes down every 4 years for inspection of rod rig, tangs etc...This
winter, besides inspecting the rig, I have to get to the keel bolt below the
mast step and also deal with failed wind instrument.  My datamarine
connector at the masthead is worn.  I also plan on changing to LED tricolor
and anchor light.  

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Casciato via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:13 PM
To: 'Hoyt, Mike'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs around
here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not 
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under 
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the mast
--- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place I wonder
if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a little and maybe
pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3 yrs -
and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of the 4
halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch crew for
me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a good
idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That said
everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast in a
bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


-- 


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   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List TAZ, Cutty

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Not sure about TAZ but you will see red CC 36 named Stinger, that’s my friend 
Kyle.  He is inside.

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 12:39 PM
To: allenmi...@earthlink.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; joel.aron...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List TAZ

 

Hi I'm out at cuttyhunk and I see a cc named TAZ anchored here.  Is that 
someone from the list?

 

What a beautiful day! 

 

Danny

Lolita

Viking 33

 

 

From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 09/04/2014 11:24 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick! 



 I replaced the overhead fluorescent lights with LEDs of the same form factor.  
Reused the existing backing and fittings. Cheap, fast, worked great.  Also 
replaced the cabin sole lights with small LEDs.

 

Still assessing head sink lamp.  Probably replace with a red/white LED surface 
mount unit.

 

Out in the cockpit, I moved the AC shore power receptacle to the outside of the 
splash guard aft of the winch and placed an outdoor shower in the former 
location.  It's easier to attach dockside AC and the shower is accessible when 
you return from swimming after climbing the ladder.  Also nice for cooling off 
on those really hot sails.

 

Allen Miles

Septima  30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Monday, September 01, 2014 4:15 PM

To: Danny Haughey mailto:djhaug...@juno.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

 

I mounted mine on plywood.   

Joel

On Monday, September 1, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover?

-- Original Message --
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: RPH rph2m...@yahoo.com, CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700

Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and 
couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave up and stuck 
the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.

I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more easily 
connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do quite often, 
especially after dark in winter.

I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures 
located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've done 
for switching if it was the latter.

It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

Best,
Kevin

Sent from my Tablet

On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');  wrote:

I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by the 
(obvious) answer.  

 

Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the 
overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865

 

Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the cover 
panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. 

 

The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I tried 
the tape. I tried industrial Velcro. I tried No More Nails tape. Nothing 
will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. 

 

I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now wondering 
whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless 
exercise. 

 

Any tips or suggestions? 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

  _  

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Re: Stus-List blown alternator diode

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Lower output in measured  DC Amps.  

For the more electrically savvy, higher ripple as now you have less than 6 
diodes rectifying.  

On a better  quality and higher output alternators, like balmar, amptech etc, 
you can see them built into the body, shiny circles with numbers on them, 
sometimes 3 are marked with red dot and 3 are marked with black dot indicating 
polarity.   There is a great alternator handbook in pdf floating around on the 
web.  URL escapes me.  It gives details of all types of alternators.  On a 
cheepo and lower output alternators they might be in a form of an IC.  
(integrated circuit)

The issue is the back emf which all inductive parts have.  If your alternator 
has no place to dump the current and you disconnect the batteries while engine 
is running, high voltage spikes are generated.  If diodes are not specified to 
withstand these voltages which could be in the order 500V or higher (usually 
the case with rectifying ICs as they are cheaper and smaller form factor) they 
tend to fail.

 

Hope that helped clarify what’s going on inside the alternator casing. 

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 8:21 AM
To: Brad Crawford via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List blown alternator diode

 

The thread on alternators got me to ask myself, how do you known if you have 
an internal diode on alternator, and how do you know if blown?

I am, electrically challenged, admittedly.

Bill Walker

 CnC 36

 

 

Sent from my HTC

 

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Re: Stus-List Shannon 38

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Shannon is no CC, it’s the Bentley of cursing yachts.   A good friend worked 
for Shannon building the interiors for 20 years.  Price would be great if it 
were not for the accident.  How do you get de-masted and no damage the rest of 
the boat?  Insurance usually skimps out on repair so if I were to look at it, I 
would inspect the chainplates, turnbuckles and made sure all of the standing 
rigging and associated fittings are brand new.  And that attachments to the 
superstructure show no signs of stress, elongation etc.It might be hard 
getting to them with all the beautiful woodwork inside.

Still I could not see myself spending that much in the 70s interior design.   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 8:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Shannon 38

 

I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing 
questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the 
Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down the 
US East Coast. I realize it's not a CC but the opinions of many on the list 
are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special interest.

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo

 

Cheers,

 

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I spent a weekend at Cutty two weekends ago.  It was blowing hard enough out
of east to make outside moorings/anchorage uncomfortable for all by large
cruising yachts.  In a frontal passage conditions, winds blow E and NE and
Cuttyhunk is fully exposed and miserable.  

There is a sandbar however to the NE with a small colony of seals on it.
Nobody goes as the bottom is kelp and thought to not hold well.  Very nice
and Calm in those conditions  I have done it on 3 occasions over the last 2
years and got a good night sleep watching other anchored boats rock and roll
across the harbor.   And my kid loves watching the seals.

  

In terms of A4 I would suggest

Spare clean carb ready to go is priceless.  On numerous occasions I swapped
carbs while under sail.  You can then clean the crappy one and use it as a
spare.  Your problems sounds more electrical then fuel. 

Get electronic ignition, and an appropriate coil.  You can find them around
100$ or so.  

Make sure wires and sparkplugs are good quality.  

Distributor cap and rotor should have nice clean contacts. 

Have few spare coils.  

How is your oil pressure?

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

 

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared,
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for
having black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that,
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine
some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower.
the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter,
then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit
of the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the
mouth of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by
shoals and some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the
harbor twice over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4
or 4.5knts through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting
that current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other
shoal. it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our
mooring was dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same
direction, I lost forward motion under sail and started the engine. She
started right up and we motored onto the mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below
and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4
hours running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that
time. I think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to
do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap
them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you
guys think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny



 

P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!





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Re: Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I had a RIB merc for number of years and had nothing but problems.  I was
always working on it.   From detaching tubes at the transom, to un-glueing
seams between the hard bottom and tubes, to mercury black letters somehow
disintegrating in the sun and getting sticky residue everywhere.  The
transom was separating from the tubes so severely that they honored the tube
warranty by giving me new tubes.  Of course I had to pay $1100 in labor to
glue the hard bottom to the new tubes.  Warranty did not honor the new seat
which I now needed as a result of new tubes.  The thing lasted another 5
years.  Then it finally got stolen.  

Got a used AB in 2012 for 1000$ which I could not be happier with.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2014 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dingy Repair

 

Hello fellow CnCer's,

 

I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I
purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no
dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow
leak in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted
through the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside.
Several questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do
you get the sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it
in), do you have to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the
best product and where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Brian

 

Brian C. Morrison

S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale

1979 CC 34

Baltimore, MD

 

 

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Stus-List Morring available in Newport

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi Burt, and any other local CC transients,

I’ll be away this coming weekend, and also entire week of august 18th.  If 
anyone is interested in using my mooring let me know.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 9:32 AM
To: 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Respectfully, that all depends on what you paid for the boat. I am happily 
renewing my 1974 33 foot 3/4ton without breaking the bank and I am virtually 
certain the value of the boat will increase beyond the money I am spending. 
Like anything, if you buy right and have some talent you have opportunity to 
invest a bit without worrying about losing your hard earned $$. I paid almost 
nothing for a complete and solid yet neglected hull with a very nice rig. 
Replacing all the windows and hatch lenses with polycarbonate cost less than 
$600. Renewing the interior will cost me some stripping supplies, varnish and 
paint. The cushion covers will be the biggest expense. Next year the hull and 
deck will get a new paint job. I will also completely re-wire both AC and DC 
systems. When I am done it will be very pretty and comfortable I will be into 
it for about $4k total, including the purchase of the boat….. (I do the bulk of 
the work myself) I am not including the normal cost of owning and using a boat.

 

Now if I start doing things like a new diesel, radar, etc, it would quickly 
become a losing proposition but I like the A-4. I am on the lookout for a used 
radar/chartplotter in case anyone comes across something tempting..  

 

Peter, we will with any luck be in Newport sometime later this month for a 
well-earned weekend on the hook. I’ll keep an eye out for the Sundowner.

 

Ship

CC 33 3/4ton

Portsmouth, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Ebay'
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

You never get back  the money you put upgrading a used sailboat.  That will 
never sell at that price.  It’s a balsa cored production sailboat.  Not a 
Hinckley or Alden.  On the other hand, note to myself don’t look for used 
sailboats in the Bay area.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:54 PM
To: Ebay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Wow!  A fully tweaked CC 43.  Beautiful lines.  Sweet sheerline and love how 
the cabintop blends into the foredeck.  Great upgrades.  First class job, but I 
don't think they'll get half of what they are asking.There are so many 
other choices on the market for less than $175K.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:46:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Shame really.  Someone put some money into her.  More money to go I'm afraid.

 

John

 

 

Sent from my iPad


On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Discounted already……..

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-Custom-2598240/Sanfrancisco/CA/United-States

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html

 

Nice 

Expensive

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You never get back  the money you put upgrading a used sailboat.  That will 
never sell at that price.  It’s a balsa cored production sailboat.  Not a 
Hinckley or Alden.  On the other hand, note to myself don’t look for used 
sailboats in the Bay area.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:54 PM
To: Ebay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Wow!  A fully tweaked CC 43.  Beautiful lines.  Sweet sheerline and love how 
the cabintop blends into the foredeck.  Great upgrades.  First class job, but I 
don't think they'll get half of what they are asking.There are so many 
other choices on the market for less than $175K.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:46:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Shame really.  Someone put some money into her.  More money to go I'm afraid.

 

John

 

 

Sent from my iPad


On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Discounted already……..

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-Custom-2598240/Sanfrancisco/CA/United-States

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html

 

Nice 

Expensive

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Hi Andy, thanks for the invite, likewise to you and any other members of the 
list.  I am at the SW corner of main harbor.  You would recognize Sundowner as 
it’s the only boat in the harbor with Fourwinds II, a large 2-blade wind 
generator.   Granted it’s the peak of the season and at anytime someone else 
might show up with another Fourwinds II.The hull is flag blue.  

 

Burt, you sound like me when I first bought Sundowner.  As far as cushion 
covers, if you have the time and are a DIY, get a portable sewing machine, like 
the Sailrite.   Then you can make the cushions yourself and after that you can 
make the cockpit nice and comfortable as well.   That sewing machine is worth 
it’s weight in gold.  

Also, if you tinkered enough with the A4, and when that time comes, get a used 
diesel and re-build it yourself.  Few years back, while on the hard, using 
halyards and boom, we hoisted a re-built westerbeke 40 up and in.  That was a 
site to see.  Because my engine room is so tight, I could not assemble major 
parts with a diesel like I did so many times with the A4, right there in the 
engine room.   So I had to hoist a fully loaded westerbeke block weighing 
somewhere around 450 lbs up and in.  That re-build and install was a tough DIY 
job, but I couldn’t be happier. 

I plan to spend a week away this month but let me know what your plans are.   
You’re welcome to grab my mooring if I’m away.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 10:07 AM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Peter (and everyone else), Peregrine is in Brenton Cove near the NYYC, be sure 
to stop by, if you can. We always have some cold beverage close at hand.

 

Andy

Peregrine

CC 40


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:32, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Respectfully, that all depends on what you paid for the boat. I am happily 
renewing my 1974 33 foot 3/4ton without breaking the bank and I am virtually 
certain the value of the boat will increase beyond the money I am spending. 
Like anything, if you buy right and have some talent you have opportunity to 
invest a bit without worrying about losing your hard earned $$. I paid almost 
nothing for a complete and solid yet neglected hull with a very nice rig. 
Replacing all the windows and hatch lenses with polycarbonate cost less than 
$600. Renewing the interior will cost me some stripping supplies, varnish and 
paint. The cushion covers will be the biggest expense. Next year the hull and 
deck will get a new paint job. I will also completely re-wire both AC and DC 
systems. When I am done it will be very pretty and comfortable I will be into 
it for about $4k total, including the purchase of the boat….. (I do the bulk of 
the work myself) I am not including the normal cost of owning and using a boat.

 

Now if I start doing things like a new diesel, radar, etc, it would quickly 
become a losing proposition but I like the A-4. I am on the lookout for a used 
radar/chartplotter in case anyone comes across something tempting..  

 

Peter, we will with any luck be in Newport sometime later this month for a 
well-earned weekend on the hook. I’ll keep an eye out for the Sundowner.

 

Ship

CC 33 3/4ton

Portsmouth, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Ebay'
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

You never get back  the money you put upgrading a used sailboat.  That will 
never sell at that price.  It’s a balsa cored production sailboat.  Not a 
Hinckley or Alden.  On the other hand, note to myself don’t look for used 
sailboats in the Bay area.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:54 PM
To: Ebay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Wow!  A fully tweaked CC 43.  Beautiful lines.  Sweet sheerline and love how 
the cabintop blends into the foredeck.  Great upgrades.  First class job, but I 
don't think they'll get half of what they are asking.There are so many 
other choices on the market for less than $175K.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:46:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

 

Shame really.  Someone put some money into her.  More money to go I'm afraid.

 

John

 

 

Sent from my iPad


On Jul 31

Re: Stus-List Fw: Atomic 4

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Having gone through two A4 rebuilds and then a replacement of A4 with DIY
rebuild of westerbeake 4-108, I can say that I do feel safer with diesel
under my cockpit, only because I don't have to look for leaks as often.  I
was comfortable with gasoline because I was aware of what is going on in my
engine room.  So long as you are aware that you are sitting on a 20 gallon
bomb that is waiting to explode at any smallest mishap and you take the
preventive actions with that in mind,  you are ok.  I did have numerous
occasions of gasoline leaks, from small plastic inline filters to hoses near
clamps/fittings, to gasket on the fuel tank, to fuel pumps, to carburetor,
some of them on the high seas, some at the dock.  But the most important
thing is I would stick my head in the engine room almost daily, and would
catch those things almost instantly.  I also did have explosive fume
detector located directly under the carburetor and my blower was running
whenever A4 was on.  My sense of smell was also highly tuned to the smell of
gasoline.  

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI


  
  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Atomic 4

I'm forwarding this earlier thread with link to stats from USGC on boat
accidents. Interesting info there, especially Rick picking out the 1 out of
86 fires occurring in a sailboat.

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:31 PM
To: 'Peter Fell' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Atomic 4

Very interesting statistics.

Among other things, it seems 7 times as many people died swimming after
boats or gear that had drifted away from the dock (see table 3) as had died
in fires.

Of 86 fires, only one was in a sailboat. As a matter of fact, 60% of all
fires happened in open motorboats or jet skis (PWCs).

I wonder just how many boats are registered in the US? Maybe 500,000? Call
it 250, 000 to be conservative. So the chance of a fire is something like
86/250,000=0.034%

For myself, I've always thought the concern over gas power vs. diesel on a
sailboat was way overblown. Emotional not logical. And I think it was Danny
made the case very well that the DIY installation of a remanufactured A4 for
around $4k in one day makes a lot of sense compared to installing a diesel,
tank, prop, shaft, wiring, engine panel, etc. for $10-12k.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

Interesting stats from USCG:

http://www.uscgboating.org/statistics/accident_statistics.aspx

I haven't read through the entire document but from 2012:

Out of 2454 accidents related to operation of vessel, 21 were a caused by
failure to ventilate. 0 deaths.

Out of 468 accidents related to failure of boat or boat equipment, 12 fuel
system failures and 6 ventilation failures. 0 deaths.

Out of 694 accidents related to miscellaneous causes, 66 were caused by
ignition of fuel or vapor. 1 death.

I'm assuming that the miscellaneous category includes ignition of other
sources such as propane heating / cooking and perhaps alcohol stoves.

If you have a gas outboard on your boat then you already carry gasoline.
Given that the tank usually isn't internal but still I think the percentages
overall are quite low and of course those stats would include accidents
related to outboards, I am fairly sure.

When I rebuilt my A4 I replaced the old aluminum fuel tank and all my fuel
lines and fittings at the same time  since with the engine in-place, the
old tank wasn't coming out without some significant surgery. The new tank I
can fit through the cockpit locker no problem.

I also made sure that the low-oil pressure cut-off switch for the fuel pump
was replaced and working and properly fused. The existing switch was not
working and had been bypassed!! ... I am pretty sure by a mechanic!! (since
the PO did not do any of his own maintenance or repairs).

-Original Message-
From: OldSteveH
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

Three years ago I was doing work up my mast about 100 ft away from a 40`
wooden Chriscraft which exploded during refuelling.
It was shocking and there was no warning for those nearby. My point - it's
more than rhetoric or something you only hear about. It can actually happen.

Second observation - a friend rebuilt his A4 last winter, reinstalled in the
spring and found out his tranny was seized. RR all over again.
The message - take the time to go over everything and rebuild/refurbish as
necessary. You don't want to take it out twice. Of course same goes for any
engine.

3rd - my 3GM will use about 1/4 tank of fuel motoring and motor sailing for

Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
To: CC List; Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

 

+1 to Jacks comments.  The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
inlet and the drain line are shared.  I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.

Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot
water (170°) wouldn't burn anyone.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

All,

 

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away without
cooling. 

 

How hot should the water get?  

Do I need to flush the water heater?

 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551  


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Steve, 
thank you for pointing this out.  The fact that you guys finished with these
kinds of problems tells me you did great.  
I've had my quadrant out twice in 15 years.  My aluminum plate is I think
3/8 or 1/2 thick.  How thick is the plate on a 34+? I can tell you in my
case that water seeps in via pedestal and traps between the cockpit floor
and the plate causing the plate to oxidize on the upper side facing the
cockpit floor.  I had quite a bit of electrolysis there as my original
pedestal badly oxidized.  About half of the pedestal base was gone in 6
years.  When installing the new pedestal I used generous amounts of tefgel.
In the last three years electrolysis seems to have stabilized. 

Good luck in a way back.


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
Thorne via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2014 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol


Folks,

I wanted to come back to the group and give a summary of the first major off
shore race with Deja Vu (34+) based out of New Orleans.

Regata al Sol is the biannual race from Pensacola sailing 545nm to one of
the prettiest islands in Mexico, Isla Mujeras.  I have done the race 3x on
other boats and always enjoyed this event. The race started Wednesday May 7
with 20 boats participating.  The nite before at the skippers meeting a
national weather forecaster was reviewing gulf conditions explaining that
for most of the race wind would be SE which for us then was a close reach/
beat... the entire race.   Next morning we had an excellent start (2nd over
line) and maintained a favored position during the first two days even
against much longer water line boats. A series of mechanical problems all
due from steering cables coming loose started on day three. Each time we
would head off on a manageable course using emergency tiller while hanging
off the back making steering cable repairs... wew.  We had the same steering
failure a total of seven times during the race with each event taking
60-75 minutes to make repairs.  The steering would give  out typically at
nite during heavy weather with more pressure on rudder. Fun.
We finished race only to find out we were dead f-__ing last.  So much for
representing the CC nation.  Found an excellent mechanic on Isla who helped
me rebuild entire steering quadrant including steel fabrication. The cause
for anyone who hasn't guested it by now... backing plate under binnacle
which holds sheves was corroding and literally gave way.  The sheves did not
have lateral holding strength.  

I hope to share this experience with everyone in that it's not enough to
inspect your steering cables and sheves - mine looked fine prior to race.
Advise removing binnacle to get a very clear view of backing plate and how
well sheves are attached.  If your going off shore this is a must. No matter
how much you prepare - AIS, radar, all safety gear, rig inspection etc etc.
there is always more to consider prior to going off shore.

I love this boat more now than ever - strong and able to handle anything
Gulf and Yucatan threw at it.  Now a new off shore capable steering system.
Will do more races for sure.  Oh, and we received the last place Tortuga
award ;).  But also the seamanship award for overcoming challenge 
adversity at sea.  Can't take that one home it's perpetual at Southern Yacht
Club.

Finally, I'm looking for a couple of crew to enjoy some Mexico sailing for a
few days and then back across Gulf to new Orleans.  Winds and current are
with us  for this trip I anticipate 4 days crossing.  Looking at early July
time frame.  We fly in to Cancun and take a ferry over to Isla. 
Let me know if anyone interested.

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
770.722.2848
Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2014, at 7:40 AM, via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

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  7. Re:  Can anyone identify the 

Re: Stus-List Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Its trapezoidal in my CC38.

4 pedestal bolts keep the smaller side of the trapezoid fastened to the
cockpit floor.  On the longer side of the trapezoid which protrudes aft
towards the rudder post, I also have two 3/8 bolts on each corner, through
bolted to the cockpit floor with large washers.   The problem starts when
moisture gets trapped between the plate and the cockpit.   Moisture gets
in the via pedestal.  The plate becomes heavily oxidized on the side that is
in contact with the cockpit.  On the bottom side with sheaves and steering
mechanism is, everything might look good, but signs of trouble are evident
if oxidized aluminum  pieces start falling out from the edge of the plate
and through the hole where steering and electronics cable usually go.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

 

Could someone provide a brief diagram or picture of the plate below the
pedestal that corrodes.  I'm not sure that my LF38 has the same construction
but I want to check for this on my boat since it is 31 years old and I plan
to head offshore in 2 years...thanks!

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List source for transmission parts

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Torrensen is a ripoff, but simple parts might not be as pricey.  Foley
Engines is a ripoff too.  Transatlantic diesels is very reasonable.  
 

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2014 12:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List source for transmission parts

That seal is part number 947.41.016.01.4  with an ID number of 326578.  
I'm not sure what an ID number is for.

I bought a bunch of them on line years ago, but don't remember where.  
Probably Torresen Marine.
You can Google 'Hurth Transmission Parts' and find a supplier.

Wal


  Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
 I am looking for a place for simple parts for the Hurth transmission. 
 A seal under the dipstick has disintegrated. Where one could order a
replacement?
 Or is there an easier way to replace it?

 Thanks

 Marek


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Stus-List Re-galvanizing chain

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Anyone have an idea where to have chain re-galvanized in the New England?

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Through-hull hole size

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck,

The problem is that in the old hole,  there is 5200 in place of balsa core. I 
would have to remove the 5200 and replace with epoxy filling.  I don’t know how 
far 5200 goes until I actually start removing it.   I don’t feel very good 
about filling epoxy over 5200.

My preference would be to just re-fill with 5200 to fill a void which is 40mils 
all around the grocco thrugh-hull.   

 

 

From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 7:48 PM
To: Petar Horvatic; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Through-hull hole size

 

You don't need to bevel.  Just use the groco as a mold.  Wax it so epoxy 
doesn't stick to it.  Rough up the old hole with 80 grit paper, acetone wipe, 
then fit the groco into the hole so you can pour in a filler, maybe use string 
to hold it in place, then mix up an epoxy filler such as West and 404 high 
density.   Keeping the Groco how you want it, and secure, pour in the filler.  
Let it harden a day.  Then remove the groco by unscrewing it.  Check there are 
no voids in the filler, and clean off the amine blush with a 3M pad and install 
the groco w 4200 or whatever you use.

 

Option B is to place a sheet of plastic sheeting over the hole from underneath 
and brace it against the outside of the boat with a boat cushion and fill the 
hole from inside.  Let it harden and then drill a new hole with a hole saw. 

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

 

  _  

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2014 11:43:01 AM
Subject: Stus-List Through-hull hole size

 

I took out the old Datamarine Sandpiper transducer that was installed with a
hole size of 2-1/16. My intention is to put a grocco 1-1/2 scoop strainer.
OD for this fitting is 1.9.  Does anyone know or has experience with this
decision?  Is 2-1/16 close enough to be called slightly larger than 1.9 or
is the hole size too big and I need to grind out a hole to a 12:1 bevel,
then glass it, fill with epoxy and drill a new hole?

 

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI

 

 

 


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Stus-List Through-hull hole size

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I took out the old Datamarine Sandpiper transducer that was installed with a
hole size of 2-1/16. My intention is to put a grocco 1-1/2 scoop strainer.
OD for this fitting is 1.9.  Does anyone know or has experience with this
decision?  Is 2-1/16 close enough to be called slightly larger than 1.9 or
is the hole size too big and I need to grind out a hole to a 12:1 bevel,
then glass it, fill with epoxy and drill a new hole?

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI




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