Stus-List Re: Navtec hydraulic backstay - amateur rebuild

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Dennis, this is super description complete with part numbers. Thanks!

Interested to hear any updates on your diy assembly.

The Navtec on my 37 doesn’t leak fluid, but may be low or time to change.
Recovery after each pump is slow.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Sun, Jan 7, 2024 at 12:44 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A fellow boater had a Navtec integral hydraulic backstay adjuster that
> blew the top seal.  As many of you know, this is probably the most common
> failure for these.  Exposure to UV and the elements deteriorates the rod
> wiper at the top of the cylinder and it's downhill from there.  (I
> recommend a 1/2 washer on top of the cylinder.)
>
> This list has been down this road many times.  There's always a discussion
> whether to take the thing to a local hydraulic shop or let Lew Townsend in
> Seattle rebuild it.  For the record, I sent Touche's adjuster to Lew a
> couple years ago and am a satisfied Lew client.
>
> So I called Lew and chatted with him about this "orphan" adjuster.  He
> asked some critical questions.  Was I going to keep it as a spare?  Was I
> going to try to auction it?  He commented that neither option was
> particularly economical.  H.  Then we talked about snow skiing.  We're
> both avid skiers.
>
> After some thought, I tended to agree with Lew.  Including shipping, a
> rebuild would be north of $400-500.  An expensive gamble to have it sit on
> eBay for weeks like others I've seen.
>
> So I decided to give the rebuild a shot myself.  The Navtec seal kit, IF
> you can find one, is about $200.  Philosophically, it's not much more than
> a manual hydraulic jack that compresses rather than lifts.  Internet
> research turned up a set of rebuild instructions.  See here:
>
>
> https://www.plaisance-pratique.com/IMG/pdf/navtec_hydraulik_service_manual.pdf
>
> Armed with instructions and a pair of calipers, off I went.  Disassembly
> of the cylinder was fairly straightforward.  I found several equivalent
> seals at mcmaster.com.  For those who are really interested, parts below
> are referenced on Page 8.
>
> Part  Qty   Navtec Mcmaster  Price
> 31  2HJ-2-215   9452K36$12.08   (Needed 2.  Had to buy 100)
> 35  1HI-005   9505K39 $4.83
> 36  1HN-002 9403K55  $2.30
>
> Jug of Fram Hydraulic Jack Oil AW32.  $10
>
> Reassembly went well.  I strapped it between two trees in my backyard and
> pressured it up.  I noticed the thing was leaking from the pump piston.
> Okay, I pulled the pump handle and piston.  The piston rod seal
> disintegrated when I removed it.  Turned out this is a generic U seal with
> o-ring 1/4x1/2x1/4.  Internet search on the Navtec number turned up
> numerous suppliers.  I bought it from Crescent Hydraulics in south Florida.
>
> Part  Qty   Navtec   CrescentPrice
> 39  112500250-250B   P125-00,250-250B   $4.05
>
> It's now back between the trees pressured up to 500-700.  Hard to tell
> because the gauge lens is very crazed.  But it seems to be holding.  I'll
> know for sure in a couple days.
>
> Granted, I did not get into the actual pump assembly and all the check
> valves, etc.  The cylinder walls, rods, etc. seemed to be in excellent
> condition so no polishing was necessary.
>
> So far I'm in it for less than $50.
>
> I want to replace the pressure gauge.  I can't find a generic one that is
> equivalent.  It needs to be a certain shape for the gauge cover to fit it.
> It looks like a gauge off a fire extinguisher.  Oh. well.  A challenge for
> later.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way 
(https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing 
buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture 
abatement, I’ll get on that today.

Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass?

Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was 
contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a 
challenge.

The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the 
originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t 
appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the 
bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead 
of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting 
things apart to dry/inspect the backsides.

So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks 
have solid glass around the chainplate?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List chain plate rebed ahead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Greetings,
I discovered water via failed bedding at the starboard chain plate had been
draining into the cavity behind the settee bulkhead where the
plate/nuts are accessible. It's all glassed but the trapped water sloshed
during sailing and saturated the unsealed plywood edges of the access port.
Now I'm worried about rot around the plate bolts in addition to a wet deck
core. Ugh.

I've temp sealed the deck plate with Gorilla tape and am considering ways
for drying things under deck (we're on a ball so no AC). Once I get a
handle on any rot issues, I'll be cleaning/rebedding both chainplates.

Any thoughts on this process?
Thoughts on using butyl tape for bedding instead of 4200?
The nuts/bolts were new when new chainplates were installed in 2011. Should
I replace these?

The boat is a 1985 37' 6.7 draft

Any expertise, references, links will be most appreciated.


Peter McMinn
SV Sirius

 _/)
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Over the winter, I rebuilt the Barient 2-sp 28s that were original on my
‘85 37. Only had to replace the springs. Pawls appeared to have been
replaced a few years ago but showed minimal wear; the gears and bearings
were well greased by previous owners and in good shape. I’d say maintenance
matters if the winch is serving your needs. Definitely worth a rebuild,
considering the replacement cost.

On Tue, Sep 12, 2023 at 5:13 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can get a winch service kit from Lewmar/Defender/West Marine with
> grease, pawls, springs, etc for a few bucks.
>
> Clean them up, replace any bad springs/pawls, light oil on the pawls,
> grease (from kit) on spindles/teeth (?), reassemble and you will be likely
> as good as new. There are Lewmar assembly diagrams on-line but if you are
> careful not to lose any parts AND take one winch apart at a time so the
> other is there for a guide, and you should be fine. Its one of those dirty
> jobs but simple enough to do. Once you have done one, the next is much
> faster plus you don't need any special tools.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
> On Tuesday, September 12, 2023, 07:20:44 PM EDT, Jeffrey A. Laman via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> Mike and others who have provided valuable input,
>
> This information on electric is very useful.  I wasn't intending to
> purchase electric in any case due to cost.
>
> I went to boat this afternoon.  Ashamed to say I did not even know what
> size the existing winches are.  They are Lewmar/England 42ST, likely
> original to boat, therefore 42 years old.  From what I am hearing from
> everyone, a Lewmar 42ST should be adequate for a C  But man, even in
> 12 knts wind it takes the full strength of two crew to get the last 2 feet
> in.  I was sensing that the winch handle was about to break.
>
> After reading more this afternoon, I am sure the winches are way past due
> for servicing.  Lewmar recommends 2 to 3 times a season!  This may be part,
> if not all, of the problem.  I suspect the winches were disassembled and
> greased about 10 to 12 years ago. Before that, who knows.
>
> Is a set of 42 year old winches worth disassembling, cleaning, greasing,
> and reassembling?  Will this result in a significant improvement?  What
> parts of the winch typically need to be replaced and can those Lewmar parts
> be obtained for such an old winch?
>
> Thanks again for all the very helpful advice on winch sizes.
>
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C Harmony
> Ludington, MI
>
> --
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 12, 2023 2:43 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C
>
>
> Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the
> primaries.  There were no secondaries.  For cruising ease the primaries had
> been located where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations
> for the original primaries were faired and painted over.  The second set of
> manual Lewmar 43ST winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard
> winches.  THIS WAS WAY OVERKILL!
>
>
>
> ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary.  Jib trimmers facing
> backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least.  So we moved the cabin
> top Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin
> top halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe)
>
>
>
> This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST.  First of all an electric
> winch can be nasty.  An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using
> one.  We always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch.
> Secondly these were AWFUL to maintain.  To service the winches the motor
> has to be dropped from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and
> lubricate the gears, pawls, etc …  Due to this and due to the lack of
> accessibility from beneath to do this these winches were rarely serviced
> and never properly.  When running the spinnaker on these secondaries they
> were stiff and made spin handling more problematic than it should be (due
> to the lack of east servicing).
>
>
>
> In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a
> set of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes.  On top of
> the ease of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors
> took away a LOT of unnecessary weight
>
>
>
> Just a story I thought I would share
>
>
>
> We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* nausetbe...@optonline.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C
>
>
>
> Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender
> have BOGO days on winches during the year which could help reduce the
> wallet pain. Electric winches are more than a little $ more. 

Stus-List Re: {Stus-List} Airhead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Bill Coleman wrote:

> Got more info in on the composting heads. (just in case anyone is
> interested.)
> Interesting, but I don't see one in my future. Just hypothesizing, but I see
> only the most environmentally rabid women (and maybe men) accepting this
> concept.
>
> << http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewCompostingHeadInstall.htm
>
> I also found these tips.  They use a spray bottle of water to hit the toilet
> after using it.  If you use the coffee filter that should eliminate the skid
> marks.
>
> Tips for Using:
>
> Be prepared for land-lubbers to be somewhat frightened by the concept.
> Guests' responses range from curiosity to repulsion.  Make sure they
> understand how to check the liquid tank level so they don't overflow it.
> Try using a small spray bottle with water for "flushing."  This uses almost
> no water, but keeps the bowl clean.  We don't use the coffee filters for the
> solids, I don't know why anyone would.  It stays very clean without them,
> but you might find you have to retrain some of your muscles to allow timing
> for liquids and solids so you can wait to open the solid door...you get the
> gist.  In cold temperatures you have to use the enzymes.  They are literally
> called "Drain Care" and we've found that they also work well for unclogging
> galley sinks.  One small container will last you years.  Sometimes we had to
> divert heat from our heater into the head compartment to help remove some of
> the moisture in the air and to help the composting process.  This was only
> important after 2 or 3 days of constant rain and temperatures below 65F
> where the inside humidity would hover around 80% to 99% all day.  There can
> be smells from the toilet directly after use, after being stirred or if you
> are starting a new compost "session" and the bacteria isn't well founded.
> It's not as bad as the smell from vent hoses from a traditional holding
> tank, but you should be aware there are normal times when it isn't odor
> free.>>
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39

Hello Bill,

I found these useful tips on the Airhead compositing toilet as wife and I as 
pursue replacing the toilet in our ‘85 37 and getting rid of the tank (yay). 
Did you vent yours and if so, how? I’m considering routing a vent forward to 
the anchor locker, but then, we have the vent from the anchor locker to the 
v-berth, hmm.

Anyway, just curious how the Airhead has worked out for you over time and if 
you have any other advice on the product.

Peter McMinn

C 37 SV Sirius
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: West Coast Rendezvous

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Martin,
Sirius will be in PL on the night of 6/3 along with the rest of the PMYC
gang doing our Fal Joslin race.  May we could check out the progress on
Calypso then.

Peter

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 2:10 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was hoping to take Calypso up to Telegraph Harbor this year but our
> painting/varnishing in prep for her "for sale" glamor shots will delay any
> voyage north.
>
> If any PNW boats are passing through Port Ludlow on their way north and
> want to meet up drop me a line.  With two boats in Port Ludlow and being
> PLYC's Port Captain I am at the marina most days.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
> Greta
> 1956 Matthews 42
> Port Ludlow
> --
> *From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 28, 2023 11:27 AM
> *To:* C 
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject:* Stus-List West Coast Rendezvous
>
> Anyone interested in attending the rendezvous without your boat: Telegraph
> Harbor is on Thetis Island, BC. There are several B's plus possibly other
> accommodations on the island. You can fly into Victoria, BC, and take a
> rental car to Chemainus. Then you can take a ferry, which runs regularly,
> to Thetis Island. There are also accommodations in Chemainus and other
> places on Vancouver Island.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Secondary winches

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I have the original Barient 28s as primaries on my ‘85 37’ and with regular 
maintenance, they’re still working well and looking ok. Within a year, I’ll be 
acquiring a pair of B 26s of the same vintage that may need some work but hey, 
free winches:) 

I’d like to use the 26s as secondaries for spinnaker and sometimes headsail 
sheeting/furling. There’s room on the combing, and the angle from a rail block 
seems workable. 

Will this size be suitable for secondary winches? Also, for those who use 
secondaries, what are the pros and cons from your perspective?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel cap

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,

Sorry for the 10 year old thread response here. I have the same 
question—Replacement caps for RC deck fitting. Did you ever find a source?
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contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Deck caps for tanks

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have an ‘85 37 with what I think are the original plastic screw caps in the 
tank fill holes. I’d like to replace these with metal (chromed bronze?) caps. 
Any suggestions for a source?

Pete McMinn

S/V Sirius

Port Madison, Wa
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contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Calypso sighting

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Martin De Young, with my boat in Boat Haven this month, I spotted your boat in 
its restored glory. What a magnificent paint job
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Baby stay vs new headsail

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Great thoughts all. I use our hydraulic backstay to much greater effect. I’m 
going to tie the baby back and watch the results on the main, which likely was 
cut for that lower fwd tension. We sail in the Salish, so heavy air is 
relatively shortlived, but some recent passages with blasts to 30 make me want 
to keep the stay ready to use.

A telling observation is that the car on the Schaefer track has suffered some 
serious torque (in SF Bay) and is only about 50% functional.

Thank you!
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Baby stay vs new headsail

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

We’ve been sailing this summer with two exhausted composite headsails (110&125) 
purchased with our 37, Sirius.

The leeches on both sails reveal a tortured  past with the babystay. With a new 
Precision tiradial 120 coming over winter, we’re practicing tacks with no 
babystay contact, backwinding lightly to pull the sail over.

Improvement needed.

For those of you with babystays, what strategies do you employ to avoid sail 
contact with the stay and/or minimizing damage?

I’ll search archives, too. Thx
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom paint gallons

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks, Dave. That’s reassuring

On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 8:01 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Pete,
>
> Two gallons should be more than enough.
>
> I’ve always purchased two gallons and had nearly half to a third of a
> gallon left over. In non-racing application with a foam roller it has been
> sufficient. And this is on the full keel version.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> Reedville, VA
>
>
> On Aug 26, 2021, at 6:41 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2
> gallons isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says
> theoretical coverage is 450 ft²/gallon.
>
> The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.
>
> 2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Bottom paint gallons

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2 gallons 
isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says theoretical 
coverage is 450 ft²/gallon. 

The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.

2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Apologies for this late follow up. I discovered that when I opened the fill cap 
on the port side, the tanks would *slowly* equalize. I blew out the vents on 
both sides, but this did not seem to improve anything. At least I now can get 
the water distributed and then shut off a tank when full.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dorade vent replacement

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thx Richard. That makes the best sense and it’s way cheaper;)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Dorade vent replacement

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

My 85 37 has the traditional cowl vents on the dorade boxes. Jib sheet caught 
one and tossed it in the drink yesterday, motivating me to upgrade to a low 
profile vent that will fit the 7” space. Nicro and Marinco make a nice mini 
solar vent that will fit, but I think these are designed for direct thru-deck 
application, not a dorade box. 

What solutions have you folks found for a low profile vent?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: A fun video...

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for posting this, David. I hope this boat finds the right set of hands 
to give her another half century. 

In testing to see the cockpit engine access and wondering how many older C 
have this. Have thought many times I’d like to add one to my 85 37. Then I 
shudder at the possible leakage factor. 

Sure would be nice valve adjustment time.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

SEW Clean
This is a non-toxic descaler that fr us has proven its weight In gold.

Living aboard during this project must be interesting.

On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 9:33 AM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good Morning All,
>
> I am in the process of replacing my Stainless steel holding tank, due to
> holes that are a result of corrosion. This is requiring me to make one out
> of fiberglass. No one makes a tank this size and shape needed. This led me
> to checking the hoses for condition. I found that the hoses from the toilet
> to tank are severely clogged. Not sure how any fluid was getting through.
> Currently with the aft cabin torn apart my boat is unusable for anything,
> including living aboard, which I am.
>
> My question is this. What does everyone use to help keep the lines clear?
> Do you pull them out every few years and clean them? Is there a chemical
> that I can flush down that will help keep them clean?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C LandFall 39
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I just removed the adhesive port of call on my transom. Adding to what's
been suggested, I found a plastic razor blade to be far less of a hazard to
my topside paint.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:53 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've had very good experience with MEK.  Test first.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 15:49 Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What solvent should I use to remove the residual adhesive??
>>
>> Neil
>> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:22 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Dean McNeill
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Removing lettering
>>
>> Adhesive lettering is WAY easier than old painted lettering!
>>
>> A heat gun and a sharp scraper are your friends. The heat gun will loosen
>> the adhesive on the vinyl and then you can get a scraper or razor edged
>> scraper in underneath to peel it off.
>>
>> Dean
>> C 34
>> Halifax, NS
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

John, thanks very much. From your pics, that’s just my set up. So you can
get full steerage from that angle—no conflict with wheel?

On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 7:18 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> John, I'd like to see your pics, thanks!
>
> Richard
> s.v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/2950+Breckenridge+Lane?entry=gmail=g>,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com ; John Conklin <
> jconk...@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Fri, Apr 16, 2021 9:26 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37
>
> Hi Peter,
> On My 37 the access plate just under helm seat  is remover and a long pole
> with square base is inserted into matching female square top of the rudder
> post. The pole only fits/aims sideways ( toward engine control panel) and
> you actually steer  from there.
> After reading about this topic last year I decided to check it out and
> document it. I have pics but its too much of a pain to post pics on here
> using google drive. Happy to send them  along if anyone would like to see
>  the emergency tiller system, really works nice, and I could see steering
> with this in a pinch no problem.
>
> John Conklin
> S/v Halcyon
>
> On Apr 16, 2021, at 7:25 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Trying to understand how the emergency tiller works on my 37. As others
> have noted on their 35II, the access aft of the pedestal is less than
> ideal, if not dangerous. Any workarounds or mods I should consider?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Emergency tiller on a 37

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Trying to understand how the emergency tiller works on my 37. As others have 
noted on their 35II, the access aft of the pedestal is less than ideal, if not 
dangerous. Any workarounds or mods I should consider?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on
the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I
need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank
levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions?

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump
> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank
> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and
> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank
> and clean.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.  It
> could be;
>
>  - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,
>
>  - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,
>
>  - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does
> not allow the water to flow.
>
>
>
> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
> water flow.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> To: "'Stus-List'" 
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400
>
> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
>
>
>
> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could
> see no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it
> was there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so
> I left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
>
>
>
> Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>
>
>
> Peter
>
> Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and
> the Starboard tank does not.
>
> Drives me crazy.
>
> Adam c 36
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com 
> *Subject:* Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
>
>
>
> I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set
> to open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side.
> I’d assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the
> stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full.
> Can someone venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015 discussion
> <https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/2KB2NSDGELMQQJSRMPPWPHVMCWQJ2ICR?hash=SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F#SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F>,
> but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some
> exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from
> equalizing. Ideas are welcome.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for the replies. I looked under the floorboards today for a manifold or 
something regulating flow from/to either tank. Plumbing is all tight but only T 
connectors, no valve. I opened P/S tubes and both showed positive flow, though 
port side seemed slower. I then went to the port tank and and found a cracked 
tightener on the filler tube, which I sealed with rescue tape. Not sure that 
would be a factor in the issue. Joe, I do suspect a venting issue and will try 
to hunt that down tomorrow;)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set to 
open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side. I’d 
assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the stbd tank 
empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full. Can someone 
venture to what’s going on? I’ve read [this 2015 
discussion](https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/2KB2NSDGELMQQJSRMPPWPHVMCWQJ2ICR?hash=SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F#SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F),
 but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some 
exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from equalizing. 
Ideas are welcome.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Now stink boaters anonymous

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

My other boat is a Laser that I race year-round in a fleet with dudes well
into their 70s--please don't tell me going to the dark side is inevitable.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 8:49 AM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> geeze, am I the only one on this list who still owns a C  
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2021-03-21 12:39 p.m., T Sutton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Since this seems to be 'true confessions' week, I must confess that I
> > sold my C (33 Mk II) last summer and replaced it with a Saga 35.  A
> > major reason I could rationalize such a move is that Sagas were built
> > by the same craftsmen that built C's in the late 90's early 2000's
> > after all remnants of C were gone.  Although not a Rob Ball design
> > it is another reputable Rob, Perry in this case who designed them and
> > while not as racy as a C it is a little more comfortable and better
> > at motoring so hopefully I won't be tempted by a trawler when I get
> > even older.  For fun I also have a CL-14, Walker Bay 10 with a sail
> > kit and numerous windsurfers including a teak boomed original .
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Tom S
> >
> >
> >
> > I too sail a Force5 and has been parked way too long.
> >
> > Bill Dakin
> >
> >> On Mar 21, 2021, at 8:41 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
> >>  wrote:
> >>
> >> Being a New Mysterian, sin is not something I worry much about, but
> >> here is my (lack of) confession.
> >> C 34+, Force 5, Sunfish, 2 windsurfers.
> >>
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> > with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
> > list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your
> > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Got the message—have decided to use the house bank and run 1/0 as low as low as 
I can up to the windlass. 

Thanks all.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List windlass battery under vee-berth

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hey all,

As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of room 
here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my homework on 
voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific experience on a 37 with 
a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 

My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but 
I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions 
for adding an adequate vent to this area?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Good to know the soft shackle works well--just built a few for the purpose.
And good idea on the rubberized carabiner (Sirius topsides also painted).

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:01 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
> The coated carabiner I referenced states a rated load of 650 lbs.  The one
> I used to use was in that range.  Touche's slips in both Mandeville and
> Pensacola are well protected from wave action (except for the occasional
> party barge/powerboat idiot).
>
> I'd think that was adequate if your spring line has some stretch (i.e.
> three strand).
>
> I'm also thinking I can somehow slide some clear vinyl hose over my
> existing spring hook/carabiner to give it a protective cover.  Otherwise,
> I'll continue to use the soft shackle alone.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:42 AM Richard Bush  wrote:
>
>> Dennis; I like the Carabiner approach, however, I wonder what the loading
>> will do to these...do you experience much in the way of surges or wave
>> action which loads them up?
>> I understand that in a marina or a backwater slip where there might not
>> be much loading action, but I am on a river where we get constant wave
>> action from barges and big cruise types..and then there's the current which
>> runs at 4-6 knots in the springtime;
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Not on FB.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:41 AM Ted Drossos via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here's a link to how I added a midship cleat.
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/206427463229026/permalink/298001127404992
>
> Ted Drossos
> C 110
> Lady in Red
> Bay Shore, NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
> Sent: Wed, Mar 10, 2021 2:27 am
> Subject: Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail?
>
> A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a
> solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline
> placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which
> seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail.
> Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a
> soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general
> opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Midship cleat

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I neglected checking archived discussion on the subject. Others have noted
different options. It occurs to me a rail attached cleat attached could
pose a problem with snagging sheets, etc. Going to experiment with soft
shackle--easy to adjust and no wear on the metal.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 7:27 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just attach a shackle to my toe rail.  Has worked great for spring
> lines.  Even in heavy weather.  My concern with tying  a line to a
> stanchion would be the additional force if the line rides up the stanchion.
>
>
> Adam
> C 36
> PICTOU NS
>
>
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Charlie,
Same question for me (37). The previous owner did wonderful prep and
taping, but coverage is thin. I’ll probably put on another coat of Kiwi.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 4:10 PM cenelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied by
> a local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in
> great shape.
>
> OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so little
> of it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and money
> consuming if done by a yard.
>
> I am considering having it done by someone without taping all the non-skid
> off and using a high quality paint, single or 2 part paint and a brush.
>
> Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or is it likely to be a
> disaster?
>
> Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, manufacturers, etc.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Remove the Red Dot?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original Red 
Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I think it 
leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and tightened hoses 
after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady “free” cabin heat 
while the engine is running, but with the new heater properly ducted, not sure 
if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort. Removing leakage points and making 
a little space is appealing.

If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it? 

I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). Tips & 
resources appreciated.

## Peter McMinn

## C 37, sv Sirius

## Poulsbo, WA (thru April)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thank you all for the quick replies. I have no leak issues around the deck 
opening, observed after some heavy rain this winter. The wedges also appear to 
be in good shape—just loose. Perhaps I’m hearing from above they may be too 
small or the wrong shape? Charles, I’ll ping you for what to look for at HF for 
future ref. Not wanting to disturb the boot, which appears in good shape, I’m 
going to try to pull/jam the wedges back into place from below. If not, I may 
have to remove the boot:/ Useful to know that Spartite will release with the 
right method—I may go with the stuff when I pull the mast at some point.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List loose mast wedges

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Risking another topic in tandem with my windlass question. Don’t think they’re 
easily confused, but we can try;)

When we purchased Sirius in October, the wood wedges at the deck mast hole were 
all low and fairly tight. Now, after a few sails and seasonal changes (not sure 
that matters), they have all worked upward and a few are loose. Is it important 
to keep these tightly wedged, and if so, how do I keep them from drifting 
upward?

Without removing the boot, I’d like to try looping some light spectra around 
the top of the loose wedge, then a block at the bottom of the loop to pound it 
down. Feedback welcome.

Found this interesting article on the merits of wood wedging:

https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/2/29/wedging-the-mast-deck-partner
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchor Windlass for a C 37+

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Really nice setup, Tom. The handle holder is a nice touch. The early 37 is 
equipped with an access panel in the locker bulkhead which, without a lot more 
more work, doesn’t allow space for that type of mounting. Looks like good 
straight drop to the bottom of the cavity.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchor Windlass for a C 37+

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

On this relatively recent thread, I see the idea I have for mounting a 
horizontal windless on a custom shelf under the locker hatch . Edd, how did 
your project work out? Lessons learned? I see earlier comment on this from 
Martin DeYoung and others.

On my ‘85 37, I’m thinking of mounting heavy 7-inch alum “C” channel beneath my 
bow cleats (replacing backer plates), securing to the bottom legs a double 
glassed shelf (3/4” m.grade ply) to span the locker opening p-s. The cleats are 
center-locker, which seems an ideal position for the Maxwell windlass Santa is 
belatedly delivering. I see added benefit of more structure in the bow but your 
thoughts are welcome on possible issues from this arrangement. It does reduce 
access to the locker somewhat, but a 10” shelf out of 28” opening allows some 
room yet.

Thoughts?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu