Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[allen via CnC-List]

Brings back memories of Septima's transits through the canal when we were 
berthed in Lanoka Harbor/ Bayville just south of where you are now.  We did 
get caught in an outgoing tide rip current while heading north after a rain 
delay, fighting against being ridden into that super slow bascule bridge at 
the north end.  We were also trapped heading inbound when a lady bridge 
tender decided to close the horizontal lift at the southern end.  I guess 
she couldn't see us around the dog leg.  When we did appear she panicked and 
started to raise the span but we had to make three loops in that stupid 
canal while waiting for sufficient bridge clearance.  Gotta love the 
maneuverability of a keel boat: those metal walls are menacing.  Needless to 
say, the male bridge tenders all the way down were very prompt when we asked 
for lifts.


There was an active group of sailors from marinas from Barnegat to Toms 
River who cruised several times a summer and raced every Saturday.  The club 
was called "Windjammers".  You might find them still there.  The Bayville 
Marina was their epicenter and it had a great site that emptied into the 
Barnegat Bay just west of Island Beach State Park where the water is 6 to 8 
foot deep.  In those days Tom's River had a bar I had to scrape across to 
enter and Septima only draws 4'6".  Most race courses used the ICW marks 
just south of Cedar Creek and a tetrahedron or two.  Windjammers was an 
iInformal club with their own clubhouse provided by the marina owner.  They 
had a lot of Yacht Club type activities without the bother like Saturday get 
togethers after racing in an informal manner (BYOB and some snacks to 
share).  I plan to take Septima back there for my kids when I am too old to 
sail.


Allen Miles

--
From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 8:13 PM
To: 
Cc: "Ryan Doyle" 
Subject: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

Thanks Edd, Alan, and Chuck for the suggestions.  She's currently on the 
Toms River, so Toms River YC could maybe be a possibility.  I will ask 
around my marina as well.


Chuck - We had an uneventful transit through the Manasquan inlet Saturday 
in a 3-4' East swell with a South wind about 15kts.  However, what I 
hadn't expected was the following current once inside.  It was ripping 
3-4kts as I pulled up to Hoffman's for our overnight slip.  That made for 
an interesting end to a long sailing day when the usually-open rail bridge 
between us and our slip snapped shut on our approach.


The Point Pleasant canal was no problem on Sunday as we timed it for slack 
tide.  I can imagine that canal turns into a washing machine though when 
the currents run.  The biggest problem I had in the narrow canal was 
keeping her steady when power boaters would go blasting by completely 
ignoring the no wake restriction.  The four bridge operators we contacted 
for openings to make our way to the Toms River were very helpful.




On Jun 21, 2016, at 3:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (ALAN BERGEN)
  2. Re:  C 30-2 -when to reef?? (Kevin Driscoll)
  3. Re:  Roller Furling Line (Joel Aronson)
  4. Re:  continuous line furlers (Martin Kane)
  5. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (Chuck Gilchrest)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 11:33:45 -0700
From: ALAN BERGEN 
To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Check out the yacht clubs in your area.  Possibly one or two in your
marina.  Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to 
meet

racers who can give you advice.  Also, lots of social activities.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland. OR

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hey listers,

After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first 
time
a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from 
Brooklyn,
outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat 
Bay.
It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad 

Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries

[allen via CnC-List]

Important you have lash downs for batteries since battery boxes are too tall.

Alen


From: Allan Rheaume via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Allan Rheaume 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries


Lorne I have 3 group 31's in the aft cabin, they fit but without covers on top. 
I don't think you'll be able to fit 6V's in there height wise.






From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries



Would be nice to shove 2x group 31 in there. 
On Jun 22, 2016 1:56 PM, "kelly petew via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  I have an Interstate brand  grp 24 or 27 "dual purpose" battery as my 
starting battery.  Excellent battery.

  Last season I added two [2] "31DCXC" Harris batteries [wet cell] for my house 
bank.  I think these are group 31s with about 110 amp-hour capacity [google 
"Harris Batteries', in Ohio to be sure].  
  As others have responded, these all reside under the aft cabinet berth.
  I will say the current house bank has a lower profile than what they 
replaced.  I had to glue a 1/2" wood strip to the front ends of the cover 
boards in order to ensure clearance for the old batteries.

  Hope this helps.

  Pete W.

  Siren Song
  '91 C
  Deltaville, VA.  





  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[allen via CnC-List]

Please get those pictures.  I have yet to mount the partition for the ice box 
and see how the ice cube trays mount.  My admiral is rather short so planning 
is essential if she's to be able to retrieve food from the bottom.

Allen


From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Subject: Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII


Lorne,
Our evaporator is vertical against the sink, but also forward on the inside of 
the box and the long dimension runs port-stbd. It's the way to go. Compressor 
is just under the settee forward of the stbd sink. You will have to cut a hole 
in the vertical fiberglass glass below the settee for the compressor to breath. 
Larger is better for compressor... And less attractive. Find a balance. I would 
do this on the portion facing forward and use a vent cover like this 
one.http://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--venturi-vents--P012_363_002_502 

Essentially this would be below/behind yours knees if you were sitting in that 
settee.  Overall it's a very clean and efficient installation. I believe other 
30-2 owners would have a similar installation. I'll grab pictures this weekend 
if I remember.

Kevin 
30-2




On Tue, Jun 21, 2016, 7:31 PM Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
wrote:

  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/icebox/build_icebox.htm this one? 

  On Jun 21, 2016 8:02 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Read about my refrigeration install.  There is a link on the cncphotoalbum 
home page. There was about 1 1/8 inch open cell sheet foam around the box.  
There are pics in the project document.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1

On Jun 21, 2016 6:17 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I 
need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box. 
  How thick or good is the factory insulation?  
  Thanks



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries

[allen via CnC-List]

Same for Septima.  I replaced Rolls wet cells (really fantastic bateries) with 
AGMs because it's really hard to check fluid level and add distilled water to 
those inboard cells.

Allen Miles
C 30-2 Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries


Lorne, 


I am not sure if my setup is standard, but I have a group 24 starting battery 
and 2 group 27 house batteries.  They are all in the back berth under an access 
panel.  In mine, the battery boxes with covers just barely fit without 
interfering with the access panel cover, so extra tall batteries could be an 
issue.


Regards,


Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI




Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 11:54:36 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 30MKII batteries
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: lorne.se...@gmail.com


1st, my boat is 2000 miles away so I can't check,  so I appreciate the help. 
What size batteries can fit my 1988 30MKII? 
My survey said a group 21 is bad.  No such thing.  I called and the old man 
doesn't remember which is bad.   I plan to pre buy my batteries since they are 
all about 8-9 years old. 
What is the required starting battery? 
What size/group are the 2 house batteries?  And,  will two 6 volt GC2 batteries 
fit,  they are taller than Group 31 but narrower. 
Thanks for any help. 


___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Three, maybe four if it's heavy air.  One on helm, one on mainsheet/traveler, 
one/two on Genoa.  I too have adjustable cars and if we're overpowered, we'll 
pull them back and spill off the top of the luff, tension the backstay (mine's 
now hydraulic).  Rarely touch Genoa luff tension.

Allen


From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:34 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


Allen to your question:  


Main
  a.. outhaul

  b.. cunningham 
  c.. backstay tensioner (mech) 
  d.. fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast) 
  e.. cabin top traveler 
  f.. boom vang 
  g.. Fisherman's reef 
  h.. 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs 
  i.. halyard tenshion
Head
  a.. backstay tensioner  
  b.. adjustable cars 
  c.. Halyard tension 
  d.. Roller furler (but we change headsails depending on conditions and don't 
partially furl much)
I'm not a Volvo racer, but I do race weekly on a variety of keel boats (racing 
to Hawaii July 12, Pac Cup), and can manage sail shape. Granted my sails are 
tired, and the 30-2 is a great boat albeit a bit tender. 


How much crew do you have on the rail when racing?


Best,
Kevin


On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:00 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Port ring comes down and hooks on the stbd horn and vice versa.  Don't try to 
imagine the dogbone as coming down and hooking on both horns.  You can make 
your own dogbone easy with a piece of amsteel and 2 rings.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Jun 21, 2016 1:54 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Ah ha,  thanks for the link and picture in it.   Dogbone . 

On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC

  On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single. 

On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep 
the boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
  Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, 
and you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce 
pressure on the rudder.
   
  You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a 
chart in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's 
stiffness.
  That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
   
  Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a 
prudent measure.
  If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding 
"dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the 
possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
   
  Give a report on your 1st sail.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  '91 C 30-2 #170
  Deltaville, VA
   
   
   
   
  Message: 6
  Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
  From: Allan Rheaume 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
  Message-ID:
  <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

  Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Standard Deck from manual
Starboard  out to inboard:  Main Halyard, Boom Vang, Starboard Wing halyard, 
2nd reef, main sheet
Port :Port Wing halyard, Cunningham, 1st reef, outhaul

My main sheet comes off the bridge deck. Backstay adjuster starboard aft.

Allen Miles


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


Since my boat is along way away... My pictures I took show:
Port side: jib halyard,  outhaul,  reef 1, and one line in the clutch that 
isn't labeled. 

Starboard 
Two 3 pack clutches :Boom Vang,  Cunningham, and the rest I can't read of which 
one is empty. 

On Jun 21, 2016 11:24 AM, "allen via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Hey, all you 30-2 owners.

  I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?

  Allen Miles


  From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: kelly petew 
  Subject: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


  I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the 
boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
  Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and 
you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on 
the rudder.
   
  You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in 
the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
  That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
   
  Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent 
measure.
  If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
   
  Give a report on your 1st sail.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  '91 C 30-2 #170
  Deltaville, VA
   
   
   
   
  Message: 6
  Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
  From: Allan Rheaume <drumroll30m...@yahoo.ca>
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
  Message-ID:
  <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

  Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90




--


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Hey, all you 30-2 owners.

I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?

Allen Miles


From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the boat 
on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll 
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the 
rudder.
 
You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in the 
photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
 
Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent measure.
If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
 
Give a report on your 1st sail.
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-2 #170
Deltaville, VA
 
 
 
 
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
From: Allan Rheaume 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
Message-ID:
<814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[allen via CnC-List]

Lorne,

It all depends  What kind of sails are you carrying and how new they are.  
Septima originally came with a North Dacron 130 and main, both racing quality, 
and a full set of sail controls.  We quickly learned that with her beam and big 
butt that 18 degrees heel was near optimal.

We also learned that keeping her on her feet was achievable with the sail 
controls long before we had to reef the main.  With a good mechanical backstay 
adjuster ( I have the original for sale ) and multipart Cunningham you could 
flatten the main and take some sag out of the headstay.  Voila, back on her 
feet.  We used to race in a shallow bay (6 - 8 feet MLLW ) where the local wind 
picked up to 18 -20 kts in the early PM.  We never reefed, just used sail 
controls.

Later I converted to an Ulmer Tape Drive 140.  Sail weighed half of the North 
130 and did not stretch.  Weight aloft went way down and ability to carry sail 
as wind increased went way up.  However, by then we were on the eastern portion 
of LI Sound and the winds weren't so much.  Big Genoa was great for powering up 
through the chop.  Main still didn't require a reef.

Lesson learned early on:  Genoa is for power, main is for steerage.  Septima's 
wheel has a leather cover I put there.  Seams are placed such that rudder has 4 
degrees incidence when seams are TDC  (easy to measure when on the hard).  
Helm's job is to place appropriate seam TDC and communicate "feel" to main 
trimmer ( on Septima, me using Harkin Windward Car setup. )  If helm starts to 
load up, I drop the car an inch, if it lightens I raise car an inch, keeping 
the mainsail trim untouched.  Boat is fast, wake is smooth and other, larger 
boats wonder how you're going so fast.  The foils on our boats are symmetrical 
versions of well tested low speed aircraft shapes and you want to keep the flow 
attached.  The boat will "lift" to windward once you get the feel of her.

I now have a new UK 140 tape drive so we'll see how it does.  Haven't sailed it 
yet, but it is the engine so I expect we'll easily get to hull speed.

My impressions:  30-2s are initially tender, then stiffen.  Keeping the rudder 
in the water is good.  Oh, and surfing down wind is a lot of fun too.  We made 
up for a lot of upwind mistakes by overtaking boats down wind.

Best of luck.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?


I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.  My 
30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet.  
I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.


When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe the 
30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, but 
not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.


I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind and 
moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail flat.


What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it is 
based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 
in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great time 
with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 foot 
less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

[allen via CnC-List]

Quick question Al.  Your 30-2 is #90.  When did they finish making 30-1s and 
start numbering 30-2s?  I am 167.
Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2


From: Allan Rheaume via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 5:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Allan Rheaume 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed


Lorne, Although a great C your 30-2 is a 28 year old boat. I wouldn't rush 
off the dock too quickly before checking everything out and replacing filters 
etc as has been mentioned.


Al Rheaume
Drumroll 30-2 # 90






From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 1:49 AM
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed



I'm going over my survey which I was not present for.  I'm 2000 miles  from my 
boat at this time... But the survey person said my throttle is reversed.  How 
would I fix this?  Is it likely backwards on the helm side or on the engine 
side at the carburetor /throttle valve?  Why would the PO have it reversed to 
begin with? 
I'd like to know in advance of me arriving so I know what kind of task I have 
ahead of time and tools/parts I might need.   I need to sail away within a day 
of arriving to pick it up and would have one day to repair /reverse it to 
correct direction ASAP. 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!








___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

[allen via CnC-List]

I was referring to the smaller rectangular units.  Their aperture is small 
enough, but the screening cuts the flow to almost nothing. 

The companionway screen is large enough to admit a decent amount of air while 
keeping outs birds, bees and assorted flying insects.

Allen


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


Thank you for the info! 
How does the "wood framed screen in the companionway" stop air flow?




On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 11:41 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  There are two ports in my main cabin, one in the head and one in the aft 
cabin ceilings, all square.  The "screens" are flexible screening held in by 
Velcro around the edges.  The oblong ports in the head and aft cabin back walls 
and one opening horizontally on to cabin sole are factory made units that came 
with the ports. I have another Velcro held screen in the fore cabin, and a wood 
framed screen in the companionway.

  We rarely use the framed units because it cuts down the airflow.

  Allen


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Lorne Serpa 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


  The 4 equal size ones in the cabin solon.  Not the large opening hatch/escape 
hatch.


  On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 9:34 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Which ports are you describing?

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 
C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 4:50 PM
To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


My new to me 30MKII) 1988) is 2000 miles away,  but wondering if the 4 
lewmar ports have bug screens in them.  Anyone know?  If not,  where can I get 
some?  Thanks. 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!






--


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

[allen via CnC-List]

There are two ports in my main cabin, one in the head and one in the aft cabin 
ceilings, all square.  The "screens" are flexible screening held in by Velcro 
around the edges.  The oblong ports in the head and aft cabin back walls and 
one opening horizontally on to cabin sole are factory made units that came with 
the ports. I have another Velcro held screen in the fore cabin, and a wood 
framed screen in the companionway.

We rarely use the framed units because it cuts down the airflow.

Allen


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


The 4 equal size ones in the cabin solon.  Not the large opening hatch/escape 
hatch.


On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 9:34 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Which ports are you describing?

  Allen Miles
  S/V Septima 
  C 30-2
  Hampton, VA


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 4:50 PM
  To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Lorne Serpa 
  Subject: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


  My new to me 30MKII) 1988) is 2000 miles away,  but wondering if the 4 lewmar 
ports have bug screens in them.  Anyone know?  If not,  where can I get some?  
Thanks. 



--


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[allen via CnC-List]

Jake's pretty much right on.  You should have a baby stay that will secure the 
mid point of the mast in space allowing backstay adjuster to bend the mast aft 
and flatten the main. 
Primarily you're looking to increase forestay tension.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?


Your adjustable backstay is used to control forestay tension.  You probably 
won’t get a lot of mast bend, but as I recall the 30-2 had a skinny mast.  It 
may flatten your main a bit too.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 21:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

 

I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, I 
have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs. 
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are attached 
at the top.

How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is 
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all the 
lingo yet.

Thanks.






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fw: What are these?

[allen via CnC-List]

Ron,

Great job.  That's it, now I remember.  I ordered line trim able Genoa cars and 
they must have come on these tracks.

Thanks,

I'll sleep better know they're not missing in action.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Rjcasciato via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 1:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rjcasciato 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: What are these?


So Allendid you buy a set of genoa cars at some time?  Sounds like they are 
the shipping bars to keep the ball bearings in place while you transfer them to 
the real track.

Ron C.

Impromptu 

C 38MKIIC..'77

 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen
Subject: Stus-List Fw: What are these?

 


 

From: allen 

Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 7:01 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: What are these?

 

While cleaning out Septima I came across these two pieces of what appear to be 
aluminum track.  They are 11" long, 1.25" wide and 5/16" deep.  There's a 
groove down the center lengthwise on on side and a 3/4" raised portion down the 
other side.

There is 5/8" tape wrapped 3/4" in from one end on each of these.  I had pix, 
but they were too big for email

 

Anyone know what they are and what they're use for? 

 

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima

Hampton. VA

 

Tight schedule and lousy weather this week has kept me from hooking up 
Septima's new fuel tank.  Will try and get that done tomorrow so we can 
shakedown.

 

 

Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments:
P1010432

Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending 
or receiving certain types of file attachments.  Check your e-mail security 
settings to determine how attachments are handled. 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fw: What are these?

[allen via CnC-List]

 
From: allen 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 7:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: What are these?


While cleaning out Septima I came across these two pieces of what appear to be 
aluminum track.  They are 11" long, 1.25" wide and 5/16" deep.  There's a 
groove down the center lengthwise on on side and a 3/4" raised portion down the 
other side.
There is 5/8" tape wrapped 3/4" in from one end on each of these.  I had pix, 
but they were too big for email

Anyone know what they are and what they're use for? 


Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton. VA

Tight schedule and lousy weather this week has kept me from hooking up 
Septima's new fuel tank.  Will try and get that done tomorrow so we can 
shakedown.


Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments:
P1010432

Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending 
or receiving certain types of file attachments.  Check your e-mail security 
settings to determine how attachments are handled. ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[allen via CnC-List]

Finally resolved fuel tank problem.  I had local vendor Howdy Bailey (Norfolk, 
VA) construct an all new replica out of 3/15 x .160 Marine grade aluminum.

He delivered to Septima Saturday and we maneuvered it down into the aft cabin 
and into its matching tray.  Perfect fit.  We'll hook it up this week after I 
get the material I'm going to use to isolate tank from the tray.

Here's pictures of old tank.  Corrosion begins where tank sat in salty 
condensate. Yes, we drilled a drainage hole to get rid of condensation. 
 
 
 
 
 
Allen Miles
S/V Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA




From: allen 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 5:41 PM
To: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


No baffles.  Now that I have to check.  When I had the old diesel removed and 
filtered,  I believe Captain Allen of KleenFuel said that there was/were 
baffles.

I see that Florida Marine listed 1/8" and 1/4" thickness stock in their tanks 
and that 1/4" seems like a wise upgrade.  Good thinking.

Thanks again,

Allen Miles


From: Robert Boyer 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 3:45 PM
To: allen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


My tank was also 0.090 inches thick.  I made the replacement tank 1/4 inch 
thick because I never want to change out the tank again!  My tank was built in 
1983, same as my boat.  My tank had NO baffles.


Bob

Bob Boyer 
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On May 22, 2016, at 3:38 PM, allen <allenmi...@earthlink.net> wrote:


  Actually Bob my tank has a sticker saying Woodstock Rainbow Mfg of Woodstock 
Ontario made the tank. The phone number listed is now a fax line. The plate 
says they used .091 gauge aluminum back in 02/89.  What I don't know yet is the 
depth and bottom shape of model 1219 model A nor internal baffles, etc.  The 
tray that carried the tank was shallow outboard and deeper inboard.  That seems 
to rule out most of the tanks suggested so far.

  Thanks for the suggestions.

  Allen
  s/v Septima
  C 30-2




  From: Robert Boyer 
  Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 11:25 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: allen 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


  Florida marine tanks made the original & have the drawings.  They produce 
them fairly quickly too.


  Bob

  Bob Boyer 
  S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
  Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
  Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
  Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

  On May 21, 2016, at 10:32 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one 
fabricated locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  
SouthShoreYachts didn't list any.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fuel tank

[allen via CnC-List]

Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one fabricated 
locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  SouthShoreYachts 
didn't list any.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Leak in my fuel Tank

[allen via CnC-List]

Bad news, found some diesel in the bilge.  Sopped it up with absorbent blanket, 
traced the leak back to the bottom of the 18 gallon aluminum tank under the aft 
berth.  Tank sits in a molded tray, now filled with diesel.  More absorbent 
blankets now at work.  Pumped and cleaned 9 gallons of fuel into jerry cans.  I 
suspect a leaking weld.

Anyone have similar symptoms?  What was cause?  It will be another day or two 
before I can pull tank and take a look.

Thanks,

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on temperature.  A 
heat gun changes the equation! 


Joel


On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:


   I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have 
only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I 
want to do it right.

   The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
   Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, 
you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again 
and proceed as with a solid hull.

  How long does the epoxy take to set?
  What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
  I have never used epoxy other than glue.

  Thanks,

  Steve Thomas
  C
  Merritt Island, FL



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

[allen via CnC-List]

Septima has two tanks; one under starboard settee, one under the vee berth. 
A little over 42 gallons.  I added a bladder tank behind the port settee 
plumbed to the head so we get a fresh water flush and no stinky bay water in 
the head.  Offshore I can change over to ocean water to conserve fresh 
water.  Used only for the head, it's only about 10 gallons and it's useful 
for lateral trim.


Allen Miles

--
From: "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 8:32 AM
To: 
Cc: "Steve Thomas" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

There is often confusion between imperial and american gallons, and 
sometimes litres. I used to prepare daily cost analysis reports first 
thing in the morning, and the last thing to do before printing it off and 
handing it to the bosses was what we called the "sanity check" - do the 
numbers make sense.


78 imperial gallons of water weighs 780 pounds.

On the other hand, 78 litres is equivalent to 20.6 U.S. gallons, which is 
a pretty common size.


Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



 David via CnC-List  wrote:
Specifically I have no idea, but to provide some perspective my 1981 40' 
has two 30 gallon water tanks and a 20 gallon holding tank.


I highly doubt you have a 78 gallon water tank or a 35.5 gallon holding 
tank on a 30'.  That's a lot of tank.



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 18:59:16 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 
1988

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: paradigmat...@gmail.com

Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding 
tank plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Travel in Cockpit vs dodger.

[allen via CnC-List]

Lorne,

Where are you on the Chesapeake?  Are you buying "SeaCure?

We typically sign our emails with vessel, model and location. 

Allen Miles
S/V Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 11:20 PM
To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List Travel in Cockpit vs dodger.


On my SOON  to be 1988 CNC 30MKII, the traveler is in the cockpit vice cabin 
top.  Can a dodger be installed?  Also,  anyone know where to get a dodge in 
the Chesapeake Bay area? 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wing Keel Lift?

[allen via CnC-List]

Lorne,

If it's in good shape, buy the boat.  The foils on the keel and wing are 
optimized for lift to drag ratio at hull speeds.  The boat sails well at four 
degrees incidence angle and you can feel yourself being lifted to weather on as 
beat.  The winglets are mounted well above the foot of the keel so you won't 
increase your draft by heeling.  Boat flies at 18 degrees heel, steering by the 
main with rudder (helm) setting the incidence angle.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima
30-2 167
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List Wing Keel Lift?


So, working on buying my 1st sailboat greater than 15'.  It's a 1988 30MkII.
It has a wing keel.  I read somewhere that a wing keel generates some lift.
So
Does a wing keel create lift?
Should I have more heavy stuff at the back of the boat for increased angle of 
attack on the keel?
Or..
don't be silly.. its a 8,000lb boat going 5 knots.  It does nothing.

Lorne





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C Letters for 37+ exterior

[allen via CnC-List]

I too have investigated possibilities to replace missing characters off the 
nameplate.  I have worked with Kay Cushing and her magic laser machine.  We 
have replicated the characters "C", "O", "&" and the spear, all cut from 
cast smoked acrylic window remnants.  All the remaining characters are 
variants of the one we've already created.  They can be attached with 
acrylic cement which will fuse the pieces to the base.


You can contact Kay directly with her email above or by calling 562 
307-4171.


She also did a great job Laser engraving a replacement plaque for my 
document number.


Allen Miles
S/v Septima
Hampton, VA

BTW, it's not water jetting; a $15K laser beam cuts the letters

--
From: "Rick Rohwer via CnC-List" 
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 12:38 PM
To: 
Cc: "Rick Rohwer" 
Subject: Stus-List C Letters for 37+ exterior

I lost the recent message regarding replacement letters water jetted from 
smoked plastic.  I am missing “C” and “&”  Can someone forward that info 
to me again?  Much appreciated.


Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fw: C 37+ nameplates for sale

[allen via CnC-List]

I too have investigated possibilities to replace missing characters off the 
nameplate.  I have worked with Kay Cushing and her magic laser machine.  We 
have replicated the characters "C", "O", "&" and the spear, all cut from cast 
smoked acrylic window remnants.  All the remaining characters are variants of 
the one we've already created.  They can be attached with acrylic cement which 
will fuse the pieces to the base.

You can contact Kay directly with her email above or by calling 562 307-4171.

She also did a great job Laser engraving a replacement plaque for my document 
number.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima
Hampton, VA



 
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 6:47 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Stus-List C 37+ nameplates for sale


Well, I've got what I consider a reasonable quote for the nameplates.  I can 
supply them in black UV resistant polycarbonate for $75 each side plus 
shipping..  That includes everything including the NRE (non-recurring 
engineering charges).  The NRE is basically CAM charges).  I need to know who 
is interested.  I suspect I can  have them in about a week.  If there are 
similar nameplates for other C models, I can entertain getting them as well.  
I don't know if I can get them in stainless steel, but if possible it will be 
quite a bit more expensive because of the small radii of some of the cuts.  A 
1/16" cutter moves very slow in stainless 
So let me know if you are interested.


Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[allen via CnC-List]

8 inches is quite narrow, particularly if the boat is rocking side to side.  A 
close friend picked up some nice bruises using a similar set up.

Allen
Septima


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:01 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder


I ordered one. There are 3 left now.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

Joe,

That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 




From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

 

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?

Joe

Coquina

 

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[allen via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Please send.  I'm still looking for an optimal location for thermostat control 
and set up for ice cube trays.

Thanks,

Allen Miles
Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:19 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed


I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
beer!!!


Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

[allen via CnC-List]

I tend to agree because the lamp is listed as AS 904-02200 festoon bulb in the 
owner's manual whereas the fore deck lamp is a 904-00234 halogen bulb.  Now, 
who's seen the top of the mast anchor light which is listed as a Guest M7030?

They haven't been making these for a long time and the bulb is listed as 1004 
bulb.  That's no help.  If there's clearance up there I'd rather replace the 
whole unit with another Aqua Signal 25 unit.

Allen Miles


From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights


That is not the LED you want for your steaming light.  Certain Aqua Signal 
Steaming Lights (such as the Aqua Signal Series 25 Masthead / Foredeck 
Navigation Light) have a second light built in that is used as a flood light 
for the fore deck. 


An example is here on the Defender site: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C65136%7C2709015=64986



The LED you have linked is the LED that replaces the incandescent bulb in that 
fore deck flood.


Assuming you have and Aqua Signal Steaming light on your boat, the LED you want 
for the steaming light portion of the fixture is probably this one: 
https://store.marinebeam.com/44mm-festoon-led-navigation-light-dimpled-barrel-end-aqua-signal-type/


Ken H.


On 2 April 2016 at 11:49, kelly petew via CnC-List  
wrote:

  
https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
   
  Here's a link to Marinebeam for what looks like the LED replacement for the 
steaming light.
  I've not purchased this bulb as yet, but I plan to drop the mast soon, and 
will likely change out both the anchor lite and the steaming/bow lights.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  30-2
   
  Deltaville, Va. 


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[allen via CnC-List]

Question about LED replacement bulbs for nav lights.  Is there a conversion 
chart for our Aqua Signal lights.  My steaming and anchoring lights are out and 
I want to convert if I have to climb the mast.  Might as well do the deck 
accessible ones at the same time.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima
30-2


From: schiller via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender sale


Just ordered a Adler Barbour refrigeration system for Corsair.  We used the ice 
box for storage when we day sailed and have an AC/DC portable that we used for 
cold drinks.  Now that we are going to be spending weekends (and more) on the 
boat we will appreciate the refrigeration.

So far the completion list for this spring is:
1.  New fixed ports
2.  LED interior lights (dual red and white in main fixtures)
3.  Added a second bank of group 27 batteries (and added a fuse to the original 
group 24 pair)
4.  New cushions ordered and due before launch.

Before launch I still need to replace the fuel filter and water pump impeller.  
Still looking at replacing the navigation bulbs with LED.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"


On 3/30/2016 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

  The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.



  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551

   

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Engine Access

[allen via CnC-List]

Thanks Jim.  PO did nice job with the insulation too.  I'm impressed and will 
plan to do the same for Septima.

Allen Miles

Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 9:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jim Reinardy ; 'kelly petew' 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Access


All,

 

Here are some shots of our access panel in the head.  The bottom has a flange 
and the top has a ball that goes into a bracket.  You push in on it and the 
door pops out.  Sorry about the blurry picture of the bracket.  Let me know if 
you would like more shots or other info.

 

BTW, I didn't mean to sound like I was tooting my own horn in the last message, 
the PO put this in.  

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByISBgOu0xYhS1ZkUmFsckJyMUU=sharing

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly petew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: kelly petew <kellype...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Access

 

I, too, would be most interested in seeing your photos.  Thanks
 
 
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
30-2
Deltaville, VA
 

 

 

 

 Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 15:44:51 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
> To: allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us>, Peter Patterson
> <brasdorboatwo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:
> <CA+LFBypXrkFp4=m4j2algek2hu1nxbh+lfa6ck1034qpb2o...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen, I will grab a photo and dimensions of our hatch on our 30-2 this
> weekend when we are on the boat. Ours isn't a nice looking wood hatch, but
> it's the head and behind the door, and waterproof so it works fine for our
> needs.
> 
> KD
> 
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 7:26 AM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Allen,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will
> > grab some pictures for you this weekend.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> >
> > C 30-2 ?Firewater?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

[allen via CnC-List]

I'd like to see pics too.  Clearance is tight on 30-2 and hatch access from 
head is something I would like to do too.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 7:44 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton ; Peter Patterson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access


Hello David, 


I'd like to see the photos and measurements too if you don't mind.  We were 
planning to do this soon.


Our boat was re powered in 2000 with a different model of Yanmar and some 
components (such as the raw water pump impeller) would be much more easily 
accessed with a water proof hatch through the shower stall wall. 


Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/


On 16 March 2016 at 20:58, djmocny via CnC-List  wrote:

  Edd,  ours was done by the PO.  I will take photos and get measurements for 
you.  Will email this weekend or sooner.


  David Mocny
  37/40+
  Obsession


   Original message 
  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
  Date: 03/16/2016 2:43 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: C List  
  Cc: Edd Schillay  
  Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access 

  To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,  


  I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side 
of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? If 
so, could you send photos? 



  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log















  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[allen via CnC-List]

Sorry to hear of Gladys' misfortune.  Same thing happened to my mate on Block 
Island.  Lesson learned:  make sure the break is properly set, particularly if 
it's a spiral fracture. Sande needed to have hers re-broken and reset after we 
returned from the cruise.  No fun.  

Also, plan on extensive rehab/physical therapy.  Sande underwent 18 months 
rehab for her spiral fracture and now has 95% functionality.

Our prayers go with you and we hope she has just a simple fracture.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima


From: Stu via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:05 PM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation


Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an orthopedic 
doctor as soon as possible.

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
and then we can start thinking about going home.

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

If you want to order C vinyl decals or a new C burgee, you will have to 
wait until we get home.

Stu
 





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[allen via CnC-List]

Jim,

Which model did you select?

Allen Miles
C 30-2 Septima
ampton, VA


From: allen 
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Post to list

[allen via CnC-List]

David,

When I first raced Septima I was getting 7 seconds over the deep keel 
versions.  I looked at the PHRFs a couple of years ago and found that I am 
now giving 3 seconds.


A clean bottom makes all the difference.  With a Martec folding prop Septima 
will fly up to windward so covering a shorter course doesn't hurt either.


Allen Miles
C 30-2 Septima
Hampton, VA
--
From: "David Miles via CnC-List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 11:52 AM
To: 
Cc: "David Miles" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list


Hi All,

Does anyone know how much slower the wing keel will make a 1988 C 30-2
than a standard keel?

Best regards,

David Miles

1-604-575-1491
mi...@intergate.ca

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: February-10-16 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list

No, I'm bringing it to Vancouver when I can.

Cheers, Al



On Feb 10, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List

 wrote:


Congrats! Beautiful boat.

Going to keep it in Sidney?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

-Original Message- From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Cheers, Al



On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List

 wrote:


Congratulations!
Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and

comfortable cruising alike!


Tracy Hirsh
Ogopogo
1989 C 37+ CB
Fairhope AL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the

bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the

bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the

bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom

of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List The Big Storm

[allen via CnC-List]

There was a big storm?

Allen Miles
NE NC


From: Stu via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 9:28 AM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List The Big Storm


Hopefully everyone survived the BIG STORM.

Stu
 





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[allen via CnC-List]

What's the possibility of creating a 30 + version.  I'm in the process of 
recreating 4 missing characters to repair my plates, but yours look sharper.

Allen Miles
C 30+\
Hampton, VA


From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2016 9:58 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate


Well, I have finally completed the CAD models for the port and starboard sides. 
 On to fabrication.  They can be viewed at: 


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwQRSP2fYIFmUGNjTlM1YVRKdnc=sharing



Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA



~~~_/)~~




On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 11:36 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

  Hi Tom, 
   Wow, your nameplates are in really good shape.  They don't look like 
acrylic.  It's obviously a material that stands up better.  I have made some 
improvements to my model since yesterday and now includes the "R".  See:


  https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmN21SUk9qZTVleVE/view?usp=sharing



  Gary
  S/V High Maintenance
  '90 C 37 Plus
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 5:38 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Beautiful day here on Vashon Island.  High 40's and sunny!  Great excuse 
for a walk down to Alera, for sure!

As promised.  Looks like the paint on the raised portion is all wore off.  
But aside from that they are in pretty good shape.

Dimensions are 19 3/8" X 2."  Also the bottom edge appears to be about  
~1/4' thicker than the top.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/2394120/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
 


https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/23849977259/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
 


https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/24191723856/in/album-72157629350057893/lightbox/
 

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com












___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

[allen via CnC-List]

Second that wish.  May we all enjoy a joyous and safe holiday season and look 
forward to a new year full of good health and prosperity.

Only 78F here in NE NC, but we'll break 80F today for sure.  Hope to get up to 
Septima in VA with the grandkids this weekend for the latest sail we've ever 
had.

Allen Miles
Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2015 2:32 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Holiday wishes


Wishing all and their loved ones a happy and safe holiday season.  May the New 
Year bring joy, fair winds and smooth seas.


80+ F here today.  Just can't wrap my mind around that.  Lake forecast showing 
9-10 knots.  Sounds like a good sailing day here in south Louisiana.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

[allen via CnC-List]

Yes there is.  The US Power Squadron dropped CAPN for OpenCPN in their Senior 
Navigator Course.  I was partially completed in the course when my cataracts 
worsened and made fine work difficult.  I suspended course work until I was 
able to get Lasik surgery on both eyes.  

Now I have the option of reloading my older version of CAPN and completing the 
original course or upgrading to OpenCPN and following the new course. Having 
taught all squadron courses, I am partial to 
ComputerizedAmericanPracticalNavigator.  I was one of their first users, but 
it's gotten so complex and the functionality is being contested by many other 
technologies.  I don't want to go down a failing path.  Costs more in the long 
run.

So, cheap is good...

Cheers, Allen
30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2015 1:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter



You mean, there's a reason for using Open CPN other than "Being the cheap SOB 
that..." ?  

:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1 
OpenCPN user too


At 08:26 AM 24/12/2015, you wrote:

  Joel,
   
  I am looking at OpenCPN for another reason, but it exports a .gpx file and I 
don't know what that is or what accepts it as an input.
   
  Fred, 
   
  What do you think of Raymarine RayTec  RNS Navigation Software?
   
  Allen
  30-2
  Hampton

  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 9:36 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Joel Aronson 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

  Allen, 

  Being the cheap SOB that I am, I run OpenCPN on my laptop, but I have never 
tried to transfer routes to my e7.  I also use the free Ray charts on the e7 
rather than the Navionics charts.  

  Voyager does not look like it runs independent of the plotter - for that you 
would need RNS Navigation software.

  Let me know which solution you go with.

  Joel
  35/3
  Annapolis

  On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 9:27 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

My old laptop died and I've replaced it with a refurbished  Panasonic 
Toughbook.  Nice upgrade for cheap. Windows 7 with upgrade to 10 option



Next issue, what software to install.  For the past 20 years I've used CAPN 
for route planning and then just connected my laptop into the onboard GPS for 
cruising.



Now I've upgraded to Raymarine E units on the pedestal and in the nav 
station.  Both are equipped with Navionics cards.



I want to be able to construct routes here at home and upload them onto my 
E units.  I will take my Toughbook with its GPS dongle along, but that's for 
backup.



Seems like I have three options: 
Reinstall latest and greatest version of CAPN 
Install Raymarine Voyager 
Install Navionics PC App 
I sense the technology moving away from large systems like CAPN toward 
mobile devices.  What's the best route looking forward or am I looking at a 
tech war in progress with no clear winner in sight?



Allen Miles

s/v Septima

C 30-2

Hampton VA





___


Email address:

CnC-List@cnc-list.com

To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--
  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

[allen via CnC-List]

Joel,

I am looking at OpenCPN for another reason, but it exports a .gpx file and I 
don't know what that is or what accepts it as an input.

Fred, 

What do you think of Raymarine RayTec  RNS Navigation Software?

Allen
30-2
Hampton


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter


Allen, 


Being the cheap SOB that I am, I run OpenCPN on my laptop, but I have never 
tried to transfer routes to my e7.  I also use the free Ray charts on the e7 
rather than the Navionics charts.  


Voyager does not look like it runs independent of the plotter - for that you 
would need RNS Navigation software.


Let me know which solution you go with.


Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 9:27 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  My old laptop died and I've replaced it with a refurbished  Panasonic 
Toughbook.  Nice upgrade for cheap. Windows 7 with upgrade to 10 option

  Next issue, what software to install.  For the past 20 years I've used CAPN 
for route planning and then just connected my laptop into the onboard GPS for 
cruising.

  Now I've upgraded to Raymarine E units on the pedestal and in the nav 
station.  Both are equipped with Navionics cards.

  I want to be able to construct routes here at home and upload them onto my E 
units.  I will take my Toughbook with its GPS dongle along, but that's for 
backup.

  Seems like I have three options:
1.. Reinstall latest and greatest version of CAPN 
2.. Install Raymarine Voyager 
3.. Install Navionics PC App
  I sense the technology moving away from large systems like CAPN toward mobile 
devices.  What's the best route looking forward or am I looking at a tech war 
in progress with no clear winner in sight?

  Allen Miles
  s/v Septima
  C 30-2
  Hampton VA




  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com








-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

[allen via CnC-List]

My old laptop died and I've replaced it with a refurbished  Panasonic 
Toughbook.  Nice upgrade for cheap. Windows 7 with upgrade to 10 option

Next issue, what software to install.  For the past 20 years I've used CAPN for 
route planning and then just connected my laptop into the onboard GPS for 
cruising.

Now I've upgraded to Raymarine E units on the pedestal and in the nav station.  
Both are equipped with Navionics cards.

I want to be able to construct routes here at home and upload them onto my E 
units.  I will take my Toughbook with its GPS dongle along, but that's for 
backup.

Seems like I have three options:
  1.. Reinstall latest and greatest version of CAPN 
  2.. Install Raymarine Voyager 
  3.. Install Navionics PC App
I sense the technology moving away from large systems like CAPN toward mobile 
devices.  What's the best route looking forward or am I looking at a tech war 
in progress with no clear winner in sight?

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton VA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[allen via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. I'll give it a try

Allen


From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 4:57 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


Hi Allen, 
 With the grey Plexiglas, the black looks very nice.  I can't imagine using 
white, personally.  There are two shades of gray (2064 and 2074).  I chose the 
darker color (2074) and really like it.


Gary


~~~_/)~~




On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 2:57 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Gary,

  After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked 
with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of 
weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can 
see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

  Allen


  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
  To: C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


  Allen, 
   If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
  Gary


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


I have templates for the C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, 
just a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.


Andy

C 40

Peregrine



On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  



  I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one 
out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal 
with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)



  For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High 
Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated 
below.  I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and 
replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been 
very successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the 
temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of 
greater than 60 degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:



  #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too 
hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a 
different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing 
the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a 
sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was 
rip up the gel coat.



  #2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin 
plywood (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in 
pieces and you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.



  #3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit 
set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.



  #4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with 
low density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my 
gel coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows 
are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 



  #5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router 
bit (sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in half 
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas

Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[allen via CnC-List]

Gary,

After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked with 
some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of weeks, 
then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can see a 
little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

Allen


From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


Allen, 
 If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
Gary


~~~_/)~~




On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

  Allen Miles
  s/v Septima
  C 30-2
  Hampton, VA


  From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Andrew Burton 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


  I have templates for the C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just 
a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.


  Andy

  C 40

  Peregrine



  On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  



I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one 
out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal 
with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)



For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, 
I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:



#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too 
hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a 
different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing 
the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a 
sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was 
rip up the gel coat.



#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood 
(or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and 
you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.



#3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit 
set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.



#4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low 
density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel 
coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows are 
out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 



#5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router bit 
(sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in half 
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template).  I ran 
the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t slide in either direction 
with respect to each other.  It does a very nice job and is quite easy.  I then 
used a 1/8” round off router bit on the outside edge of the new window for 
cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room 
for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.



#6.  I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around 
where I wanted the window to go.  This would help me locate the window and 
provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.  I

Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[allen via CnC-List]

What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


I have templates for the C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just a 
set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.


Andy

C 40

Peregrine



On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  



  I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one out 
there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal with 
cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)



  For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, I 
have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:



  #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too 
hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a 
different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing 
the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a 
sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was 
rip up the gel coat.



  #2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood 
(or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and 
you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.



  #3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit set 
to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.



  #4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low 
density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel 
coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows are 
out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 



  #5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router bit 
(sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in half 
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template).  I ran 
the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t slide in either direction 
with respect to each other.  It does a very nice job and is quite easy.  I then 
used a 1/8” round off router bit on the outside edge of the new window for 
cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room 
for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.



  #6.  I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around 
where I wanted the window to go.  This would help me locate the window and 
provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.  I also masked 
the edge of the new window for the same reason.



  #7.  Now cones the tricky part.  You only get one shot with the VHB tape, 
because once it is down, it is not coming up.  I tried adhering two small 
pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape, and I 
can assure you, you won’t pull them apart.  VHB is amazing stuff.  As a guide, 
I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the window with a 
small piece of VHB tape.  By attaching it to the masking tape, I was sure I 
could get it back off.  Actually, VHB doesn’t stick very well to masking tape 
anyway.  I also stuck a small wooden block to the masking tape at one end of 
the window as well.  This allowed me to set the window on the two bottom block 
and then slide it over to the end block before pushing the window into 

Re: Stus-List little A hatches on a LF38

[Mason, C. Allen via CnC-List]

Yes, I pulled mine out for a pattern and took it to my trusty glass shop that 
also does plexi. (They also do fancy cuts on table top class). They recognized 
the material right away and supplied me with a perfect replacement. It has only 
been in 6 months but so far so good.




From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
Date: December 1, 2015 at 6:05:18 PM EST
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List little A hatches on a LF38

If you figure something out, let me know, I might be interested as well.

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour (1984 C LF38)

On Tue, Dec 1, 2015 at 2:47 PM, 
> wrote:
From: Frederick G Street >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 16:35:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List little A hatches on a LF38
Paul - I had a bunch of sets made up for LF38 listers several years ago; I may 
still have a few left.  Let me check and get back to you.

- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 1, 2015, at 4:29 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi,

I need to replace the lens on the little hatches in the galley and head.  I 
believe these are Atkins & Hoyle model 550 single frame hatches (discontinued).

Does anyone know of a reasonable source for new lenses?   I contacted A and 
they want $325 for a single lens.   Or has anyone made their own replacement 
lenses?  For the most part they look like 1/2" grey acrylic 15-1/4" x 8"  with 
a routered gasket groove on the inside.  Making the groove would seem tricky.



Here is a photo: 
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cQwWT5f4T5s/VlxR-3M0xvI/IR0/31kUx-Mliz0/s1600/%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Interior paint color

[Mason, C. Allen via CnC-List]

Hello Folks,
Seeking some help, does anyone know the interior paint and color used in '84. 
Yes I can have a match done and that will be the next step but was trying to 
get close to original. Many thanks. A.Mason (29mk2)
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[allen via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred.  I never considered my E120  a classic, but technology moves on.  

My control head is on the port side cockpit wall just forward of the propane 
locker where  I can see the readout and set the course easily.

Allen


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 5:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


Allen — by newer, I mean the e series, the c Series, the a Series and the eS 
Series.  Your "Classic E” MFD doesn’t have the autopilot functionality that the 
newer ones have. 


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Oct 17, 2015, at 12:45 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


  Fred,

  How new is newer?  I have an E120.

  Allen Miles
  Septima
  Hampton, VA


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


  Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control 
a properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[allen via CnC-List]

Fred,

How new is newer?  I have an E120.

Allen Miles
Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?


Graham brings up a good point: with the newer Raymarine MFDs, you can control a 
properly-networked autopilot right from the screen, which makes a nice backup 
to the control head.  You really NEED to have reliable control of the pilot at 
the wheel, in my opinion.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I would 
have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction display.  I've 
got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that can activate and tweak 
the pilot settings, so I can control it either place.  The setup works well.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Moorings charter

[allen via CnC-List]

Heard some bad vibes about Moorings charter fleet, mostly in the BVIs.  You see 
any sign of problems in Miami?

My favorite was the Leopard 46, but we had to have three engineers on board to 
figure how all the "stuff'" worked.  Boat came with three huge reference tomes.

Allen Miles


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2015 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Moorings charter


All, 


Last weekend we did a 4 day charter on a Leopard 39 out of Miami.  First time 
sailing out of Miami, in the Keys, on a charter or a cat!


It was one of the best vacations we ever had, despite a lack of wind much of 
the time!  Went from Miami to Key Biscayne to Key Largo mostly in the Bay and 
then back on the ocean side.


The Leopard is an interesting boat, with all lines lead to clutches and winches 
at the helm.  One winch is electric.  It is surprisingly heavy at 20,000 
pounds, and needs 10 knots to sail at a reasonable speed.  it was great having 
all of the living space on one level.  Our boat had a generator, so we A/C on 
the hook - a real luxury!


Not a boat I would own on the Chesapeake, but a great charter!



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[allen via CnC-List]

I already have a multi part soft vang.  What's the cost and performance 
benefits of going to a boom kicker vs a solid vang?

Allen Miles
Septima C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 9:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang


If you are unable to get proper luff tension when raising the main, and you 
suspect the cause may be the tension on the leach of the sail, then the problem 
is most likely that you have not loosened the mainsheet (or vang if you have 
one) sufficiently before raising the sail. The weight of the boom shouldn't be 
a problem.

 

As Dennis pointed out, the topping lift causes a lot of wear on the leach of 
the main. And as Lee pointed out, it's major effect when sailing is to negate 
any adjustments you do make to the mainsheet and vang, and to screw up tacks in 
light air. On my 25 (where the end of the boom is only about 2 feet ahead of 
the backstay) the topping lift spent probably a third of its life wrapped 
around the backstay and giving me fits. I was really glad to get rid of the 
verdamte thing.

 

Josh said the topping lift might be useful to let the main twist off when 
slightly overcanvassed. You can accomplish the same thing by slightly loosening 
the mainsheet or the vang (if you have one); the pressure of the wind will  
increase the twist. Conversely, if you want to flatten the leach while not hard 
on the wind, tightening the mainsheet will pull in on the boom while it pulls 
down on the leach - which may not be optimal. The vang will control the leach 
tension independent of boom position, so you can use sheet and traveler to 
adjust the position of the boom.

 

When reefing, releasing the rigid vang will raise the end of the boom ( and you 
won't need to stand on the cabin top or side of the cockpit to do the 
adjustment). And when you are done setting the reef, a pull on the vang will 
tighten up the leach and adjust the twist of the sail.

 

I have Garhauer rigid vangs on both my boats, and no topping lifts. Main 
halyard gets attached to the end of the boom and snugged against the vang when 
the sail is down to stop halyard slap and to keep the boom from rocking side to 
side. I am a very happy camper.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 


Realized that I made an error - I was not referring to the leach, I actually 
meant the luff (sorry - my nautical terms are not.
Sail is hard to hoist fully to get the luff tight.  Maybe if I raised the boom 
with the topping lift it would be easier to fully hoist -- which would then 
mean I would need to go back and loosen the topping lift every time.  I'll have 
to play with it a bit.
Same I guess when I reef - raising the boom with the topping lift would make it 
easier to snug down the reef point.  The rigid vang would save the extra step.

Thanks for all the info.  I'm tempted to go with the Garhauer rigid vang, get 
rid of my topping lift completely - but I'll need to decide if that makes it to 
the top of my list or not.

Mark




  There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George 
SantayanaOn 2015-09-29 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

  I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I eliminated my 
topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
  dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the topping lift 
used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping the
  mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the boat bounces a 
bit.

  If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it off quite a 
bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the 
  sail will allow...

  -- 
  Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C 30
  Armdale Y.C.
  Halifax

 




-Original Message- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang 


Thinking about projects for the boat. 
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping. 
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear) 

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower 

Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

[allen via CnC-List]

Where is your traveler? On the bridge deck or above the companionway?

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
1990 C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 7:59 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections


What is it that you want to improve?  What is the problem?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2

[allen via CnC-List]

Not my model.  The 30XL and 30R models did.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 11:51 PM
To: CC List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2


Does the CC 30 have a deck track which provides more or less tension on the 
baby stay?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 18, 2015 7:16 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Snap shackle on mine 


  Joel

  On Tuesday, August 18, 2015, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw a 
30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a traditional 
boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in that it is a) 
removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast bend in blowy 
conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with Dyneema or eq, 
and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that.  


It's not high on my project list right now however.


Kevin
Portland
30-2


On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Yep, pelican hook, same here.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 CC 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great.

Bill Bina

On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote:

  Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, 
I
  would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so 
I
  can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the
  foredeck.
  What hardware is best in this application?
  Allen Miles
  s/v Septima
  Hampton, VA





  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
  bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551

  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com








___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2

[allen via CnC-List]

Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would 
like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it 
off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck.

What hardware is best in this application?

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
Hampton, VA




 


Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service

[allen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

Just where in the sticks are you?  Heck, I'm in Hertford and I thought we were 
in the sticks (Pine groves really).

Allen Miles
s/v Septima 
CC 30-2


From: Charles Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 10:21 PM
To: Tracy Hirsh ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robbie Epstein 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service


I may live so far out ...in the sticks... in Eastern NC that ...we have to 
import the sticks ... but we have many hydraulic shops, mostly because we 
have a lot of farm and logging equipment in use.


I had my Navtec unit (after about 15 yrs in use) seals replaced, cylinders 
smoothed/rebored?, etc. for about $300 at one of these a few years ago.


Compared to the size and complexity of most equipment these shops deal with, my 
Navtec unit was a piece of cake, especially to the ...good old boys... who 
are used to more complexity and quicker turn-arounds. (If you have contracted 
with an equipment lessor to get your crop planted, fertilized, harvested, etc. 
during a certain time interval, you or they cannot afford to wait for a 2-3 
week repair time!)


With appreciation to those actual rocket scientists on the list, this 
repair/rebuild does not even approach rocket science. It's a hydraulic cylinder 
for Heavens sake! The fact that it is used on a sailboat may inflate the repair 
cost (if it is repaired by a rigging shop) but at the end of the day it is a 
simple hydraulic cylinder.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
CC 36 XL/kcb
























Sent from my iPad
..
On Feb 4, 2015, at 9:15 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  Thank you Robbie. 
  I got a suggestion from Francois Rivard to try Zern Rigging in Pensacola. I 
will let you know how it goes - Rick Zern will be closer for you as well!
  Tracy

  On Feb 4, 2015 7:47 PM, Robbie Epstein via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I had my Navtec pump and back stay cylinder rebuilt at Florida Rigging in 
St Petersburg a couple of years ago.  I live in Fort Walton and couldn't find 
anyone close by to do it.  They were easy to work with, and did a great job.

Robbie
1980 CC 40, Thorfinn
Fort Walton Beach, FL

Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Stus-List Navtec pump service on Upper Gulf Coast

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 37+ engine size

[allen via CnC-List]

Our 30-2 has 20 hp Universal and easily reaches hull speed in light to calm 
conditions.  Originally it was powered by an 18 hp Universal that netted 16.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima


From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:41 PM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ engine size


Danny:
Some say if you have one hp per foot of boat, you are adequately powered for a 
sailboat.  A 35 hp diesel in a 37+ seems adequate to me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015/01/10 12:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

  Hi Guys,

  I'm eyeing a 1989 37+  but it has a 35 HP universal diesel.  That, seems kind 
of small for a nearly 40' boat.  doesn't it?

  Danny

   








___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain

[allen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

Which hatch?

Allen Miles
s/v Septima 30-2


From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2014 6:15 PM
To: Joel Aronson ; Edd Schillay ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain


I used one of the Nicro vent on my old US27 in the overhead hatch. I was 
surprised at the difference it made in summer especially. I had heard the 
batteries need to be replaced every few years, but did not have an issue. +1 
for vent in hatch.



Kevin
Osprey 30-2


On Mon Dec 29 2014 at 3:02:55 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Edd  
  Put them in the hatches. Plexi is easier than cabin top. 


  Joel


  On Monday, December 29, 2014, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

All,


I second Jim Watts’ recommendation of a Day/Night Solar Vent. Though I 
haven’t used them myself on the Enterprise, I’ve heard of others having great 
results with them.  


The one caveat I’ve heard, in order to really get the benefit, is that you 
should install two; one towards the front of the boat pulling air in and 
another towords the back blowing air out. This will create an air flow that 
will keep the boat fresh. 


I’m going to do it one of these days, though I’m not sure if I can bring 
myself to drill holes in the deck.  




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log






  On Dec 29, 2014, at 5:09 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


  Hi Dan, 


  As Doug mentioned the usual thing is a Dorade Box.  These are usually 
wooden boxes but there are plastic one available too like this from Defender: 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1646992path=-1|6880|2290139|2290147


  In another reply Jim Watts recommended a Day/night solar vent.  This is 
probably a better way to go as it will continue to move air even when there is 
no wind.  These from Defender: 
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290139id=2290144


  Ken H.


  On 27 December 2014 at 21:21, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Dan, 
I keep Pegasus at Shilshole.  Come on by if you are in the area. To 
answer your question. The vents sit atop a Dorade box. It has a stand pipe off 
set to the vent. This allows air to enter but funnels the water through drain 
holes in the side of the box. There are also caps that replace the vent scoop. 
Hope this answers your question.
Doug
Pegasus
LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA


T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.
-- Original message--
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: Sat, Dec 27, 2014 15:51
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Subject:Stus-List Vents and Rain
I’m wanting to install a vent on my CC 26 and curious on how the rain 
is kept out?  Seems I live in the Pacific North West where we have an abundant 
of moisture.  Does it have something that can be closed during downpours. 


Thanks,


Dan











___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom 
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

  Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
subscribers.

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com






  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551
  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

  Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all 
subscribers.

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album.

Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers.

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including 

Re: Stus-List Dribble

[allen via CnC-List]

Just took care of that problem: Laser surgery to remove cataract in left eye 
Thursday, right scheduled for January 8th.  It's amazing how much vision I 
had lost even with contact lenses and glasses.


Sailed, rather motored, Septima back to Hampton last Monday.  Beautiful day 
with light winds outbound on the Elizabeth River, dodging naval vessels 
right and left.  Dang those carriers are huge.


Best wishes for the holidays

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
--
From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dribble

Yup, before you throw the trash out, make sure you know where your glasses 
are.


This is just a little warmup for New Years Eve.

Best wishes for the holidays,
Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

[allen via CnC-List]

As we elders have discovered, cataracts also impose a yellow haze over your 
vision.  I thought I was seeing white until the surgery showed me what real 
white was.  Luckily there are so many marks around here you can't miss picking 
up the next one.

Allen


From: Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:02 PM
To: 'Gary Nylander' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)


Gary, where in MD are you?

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

90 Dodge Spirit soon to be turbo

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: December 20, 2014 10:59 AM
To: Chuck S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

 

I'll make it sailing related. being nearsighted as well, I have 'split 
vision' contacts. One for reading (almost) and the other for distance. But, 
this screws up sighting the distance to marks, because the perspective is a bit 
off.

 

But, as you 'young 'uns' get a little older, the distance problem gets a bit 
better and the reading problem gets worse, so both of my lenses are getting a 
bit weaker which is helping the perspective problem, however, my reading 
problem is getting a bit worse. I dread the day when I won't be able to read 
the chart or chartplotter without reading glasses. Then, I may have to rethink 
this whole deal.

 

In the meantime, I can get by with 'readers' from the store and 'regular' 
sunglasses. So, the losing problem is less costly (as I dump the sunglasses 
every so often into the drink or break them, and lose so many readers that I 
buy them in bulk). One on the workbench in the shop, one at my desk, one at the 
model boatbuilding bench in the basement and one by the TV, so I can read the 
listings and the fine print in the newspaper.

 

Gary - on the hard in Maryland

  - Original Message - 

  From: Chuck S via CnC-List 

  To: Marek Dziedzic ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 

  Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:41 AM

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)

   

  Totally relate.  I'm 60 and near sighted.  But I have to take my distance 
only glasses off to see close up.  This works great for computer work, or 
print reading.  I work as an HVAC Mechanic at a school and often loose the 
glasses at the end of the day.  I usually find them above the ceiling tile or 
on a roll of prints.  Today I hooked them in the neck of my uniform shirt, (no 
pocket) and they fell down inside the shirt to my waist.   

   

  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

   


--

  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: D Harben sailadventu...@rogers.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:07:12 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble

   

  The only sure way is to have a full set in every potential place where you 
may need them. This does not mean that the pair you actually need is in the 
exact time and place where you expect it to be, but at least you have a 
fighting chance.

   

  Marek

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 10:43 PM
  To: Jim Watts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble

   

   ... Only 1 pair?

  Ha!

  Progressive trifocals, everyday

  Progressive trifocals, sailing

  Reading

  Computer, longer focal length then reading

  Distance for TV and movie theatre

   

  Where they are at time and place is never where I need them!


  On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I hesitate to ask why your glasses were in the trash...at least you don't 
have to futz with a joker valve in the process.




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 19 December 2014 at 18:05, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Yup, before you throw the trash out, make sure you know where your glasses 
are.

 

This is just a little warmup for New Years Eve.

 

Best wishes for the holidays,
Wal



 

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com



 


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album



 

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

___

Re: Stus-List Surfing CC hulls 37R, plus or XL?

[allen via CnC-List]

I can't speak for 37R or XL models, but the 30-2 is another contemporary Ball 
design that caries her beam well aft.  We used to surf easily on the wavelets 
that formed easily in Barnegat Bay NJ where the average depths were 6 to seven 
feet and the heat machine built winds up to 20 knots for the second race every 
Saturday.  Made up a lot of lost time going downwind that way.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Dave Moore via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 3:20 PM
To: Robert Mazza ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: CC Mailing List 
Subject: Stus-List Surfing CC hulls 37R, plus or XL?


Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their boats 
to surf waves? 
Thank you
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  As long as we are comparing war stories, despite previously maligning IOR 
hulls, the fastest I've gone in a keel boat was on Marauder in the long 
distance race of the 1975 Canada's Cup on Lake St. Clair, when it was blowing 
the shingles off the roof, and we had a #2 on the spinnaker pole. The bow wave 
was breaking at the chain plates, and the speedo was pegged at it's max reading 
of 12 Kts for a long time. That was before GPS, so we really had no idea how 
fast we were going. And that was with a tiller steered boat. Marauder could out 
reach Golden Dazy easily, but couldn't touch her upwind. Dazy took the 
series,3-2, winning all the inshore races. 


  Rob Mazza


  On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

The 35 MK I does not come close to planning like a modern sport boat. 

The best I have done in flat water is 11 knots boatspeed with 50-60 knots 
on the stern and the working job up. At that speed the stern is sunk nearly to 
water level. In any kind of the waves the boat will surf/plane DOWN the waves, 
but you drop speed on the upside. Max speed I think I have ever seen is 15-16 
knots surfing down 20 footers . The only CC I have ever seen plane like a 
Laser would be the SR-21. I think the only true “planing” CC s would be the SR 
series and maybe the newest 30 foot model.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina CC 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Mazza via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 12:08 PM
To: Dave Moore
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing CC hulls?



Not a definitive analysis, but my recollection is that the older CCA type 
hulls, CC 35s, 43s, and certainly the 61s were better off the wind than the 
later IOR influenced hulls, which were better upwind than the older boats. 
However, it would be interesting to hear from owners on that subject. 



On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore drolfmo...@yahoo.com wrote:

  Hi Rob and Hank,

  Did any of the CC models have a particular strength in surfing (or 
planing) down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall 
talking to Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing 
performance but I was remiss in not asking what CC models have the strongest 
surfing potential. 

  Thank you

  Dave


  Sent from my iPhone


  On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Rob,



Your knowledge of the history of CC designs is truly amazing. I 
enjoyed reading your tutorial. 



I never knew Eric was in the kitchen business.  After I and a bunch of 
others left the faltering CC, I spent 10 years in brick manufacturing which 
landed me in Des Moines, Iowa.  Exiting that business, I bought an 
Architectural Millwork company and two years later a kitchen cabinet 
manufacturing and remodeling company. We ran those two for 20 years, quadrupled 
their size and sold them to retire on our trawler.  And we did a few boat 
interior remodels as well, both power and sail. Our CC 29 Illusion is still 
winning races on Lake Rathbun, in SE Iowa.



We are docked at the Naval Air Station Marina in Jacksonville, FL where 
Ann has been undergoing tests at Mayo Clinic.  As I look out into the mooring 
area I can see the distinctive lines of a CC 35 MK I.  A few docks is a 
Landfall 38.  It is amazing how many CC's we see as we travel up and down the 
ICW each year.  They are still the best looking boats on the water !



Cheers from Queen Ann's Revenge,



Hank







On Thursday, October 30, 2014 4:32 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



Hi John,



Another interesting mid Cuthbertson and Cassian design, before the 
creation of CC Yachts. Big George tells me that Psyche II, designed for Bob 
Grant, a future Commodore of RCYC, was essentially a sister to Ivanhoe II which 
proceeded Psyche by a couple of years. Ivanhoe II was design number 64-4 for 
Comm. Ray Engholm, also of 

Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

[allen via CnC-List]

 I replaced the overhead fluorescent lights with LEDs of the same form factor.  
Reused the existing backing and fittings. Cheap, fast, worked great.  Also 
replaced the cabin sole lights with small LEDs.

Still assessing head sink lamp.  Probably replace with a red/white LED surface 
mount unit.

Out in the cockpit, I moved the AC shore power receptacle to the outside of the 
splash guard aft of the winch and placed an outdoor shower in the former 
location.  It's easier to attach dockside AC and the shower is accessible when 
you return from swimming after climbing the ladder.  Also nice for cooling off 
on those really hot sails.

Allen Miles
Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2014 4:15 PM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!


I mounted mine on plywood.   
Joel

On Monday, September 1, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover?

  -- Original Message --
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: RPH rph2m...@yahoo.com, CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
  Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700


  Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and 
couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave up and stuck 
the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.

  I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more easily 
connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do quite often, 
especially after dark in winter.

  I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures 
located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've done 
for switching if it was the latter.

  It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

  Best,
  Kevin

  Sent from my Tablet

  On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by 
the (obvious) answer.  

Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the 
overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865

Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the 
cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. 

The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I 
tried the tape. I tried industrial Velcro. I tried No More Nails tape. 
Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. 

I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now wondering 
whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless 
exercise. 

Any tips or suggestions? 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551






___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Engine Sound Insulation - Now docking

[allen via CnC-List]

I second Rick's experience.  Rev up your engine to 1200-1500 rpm, both blades 
deploy and you start to move in reverse,  I don't back into my slip normally, 
but have done it repeatedly while on cruise and the opportunity presents itself.

Allen Miles
Septima 30-2
Portsmouth, VA on final stage of water intrusion damage repairs


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 4:23 PM
To: Rick Brass ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Engine Sound Insulation - Now docking


Ditto.  (Of course it's probably just luck, the current or wind, magic or my 
imagination because conventional wisdom seems to say that Martecs have no 
reverse.)


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 10:11 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  The trick to backing with a Martec folding prop is the throttle.


  My Martec will stop my 15000 pound 38 from 2 or 3 knots in about a boat 
length. Shift into reverse and boost the throttle to about half (1200 to 1500 
rpm in my case). The revs hold the blades open and she will stop as well as she 
did with the 16x10 fixed prop.


  I back into my slip. Going forward, approach from perpendicular to the slip 
centerline and a couple of boat lengths off the outer piling. Turn out to 
intersect the slip centerline, shift to reverse and throttle up. When the boat 
has good stern way, shift to neutral and use the rudder and momentum to back 
into the slip. A blip of power in forward to stop, and then scurry forward to 
get the bow and forward spring line attached to the boat, then slow reverse to 
hold the boat into the slip and use the prop walk to hold her against the dock.


  Heck, now that I think of it, the only time I have the boat in reverse at 
idle is when I'm using the prop walk to bring the stern over to a pier or to 
turn around in a tight fairway.


  Rick Brass

  Sent from my iPad

  On Aug 28, 2014, at 10:17, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


Hell, It took me a few attempts at backing in under power to figure out 
that my 2-blade folding Martec prop needs half an hour head start just to stop 
my 1kt forward progress! Still trying to figure out how to account for and use 
my prop-walk. If I have a good hand with me I will sail on and off my mooring. 







  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com










___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Looking for sails

[allen via CnC-List]

I have a 140 Tape Drive Genoa on my 1990 30+ back in the 90s.  Replaced a 
Dacron North 130 that came with the boat.  Weighed about half the 130 so 
less weight aloft.  Had virtually no stretch as the wind pick up so we 
carried here in winds up to 25 true unfurled.  A great sail.  Still on the 
boat.


Allen Miles
CC 30-2 Septima
Hampton, VA

--
From: Stephen Thorne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Looking for sails



Fellow CC'rs,

I am in the market for a new suit of sails for my 1990 34+.  I like what I 
have read about UK Tape Drive sails and was wondering if anyone has owned 
this brand and could give feedback?


Also I would consider a used set of racing sails if anyone has a set for 
this particular model.


Stephen Thorne
CC 34+
Deja Vu



On Jul 27, 2014, at 8:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...


Today's Topics:

  1.  remove head sink on c n c 32? (McElwreath, Daniel)
  2.  tight reaching (Pete Shelquist)
  3. Re:  tight reaching (Josh Muckley)
  4. Re:  tight reaching (Chuck S)
  5. Re:  tight reaching (cenel...@aol.com)
  6. Re:  tight reaching (Andrew Burton)
  7. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (Richard N. Bush)
  8. Re:  Stus-Maine Cruise (davidrisch75)
  9. Re:  tight reaching (Dennis C.)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 16:23:43 +
From: McElwreath, Daniel mcelwrea...@wpunj.edu
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?
Message-ID:
74ac7c951a8a93469c6e9f035d118c56223e6...@exchmbx1.unv.campus.wpunj.edu

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Before going in the water this Spring I replaced all the  waste hose and 
ran thru the vanity in head.  This week I had to rebuild the par shower 
drain pump so I had to remove that.  My question:  Can the head sink be 
removed to allow access?  Working thru the small vanity door is an 
absolute BEAR.  I have been reluctant to try and put the pump back, only 
because it is such a pain.  I was even thinking of cutting the vanity 
wall out, including the little door, and then reglassing when finished. 
But I know what that would look like.  Thanks for any advice.  Dan Mc on 
Tively II in City Island, NY

-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140727/fd11f65a/attachment-0001.html


--

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 12:01:51 -0500
From: Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List tight reaching
Message-ID: 002201cfa9bc$779960c0$66cc2240$@shelqu...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I recently had a mid-distance race in which a majority of the race was 
tight
reaching in flat water, 10-15 breeze.   We had our heavy #1 up.  A number 
of

boats (CC39, CC38, Sabre 36, Tarten Ten) worked up on us pretty well in
those conditions.   I obviously need to trim the sails differently and am
looking for suggestions.



We mostly eased the sheet and moved the car forward, but we did try 
barber

hauling.  We did not try bringing the clew right out to the toe rail.



Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated.



Thanks,



Pete

1984 CC 37



-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140727/ffcfba52/attachment-0001.html


--

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 13:44:34 -0400
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com, Pete Shelquist
pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List tight reaching
Message-ID:
CA+zaCRBNo1O5vTdN=fcyljdw-ahpkam9gyu_rjsrbm0-jhm...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

How much backstay?  How much babystay?  How tight was the outhaul and
halyards?  Speed bubble in the main?  How much heel?  How much rudder? 
How
much weight on board?  Crew hiking out?  When was the bottom last 
cleaned?
What type of paint?  You might need to come off the wind just a few 
degrees

and/or let the sails breath just a bit.

At 10-15 kts you should have been able to reach hull speed...~6-7kts.  If
not then something was wrong.  You might even want to consider a #2 if 
you

were being blown over too much.

As you can see there is just no simple answer.  Keep racing 

Re: Stus-List Screwpile Regatta

[allen via CnC-List]

Now that's keeping your head in the game,  Super win.


From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 4:35 AM
To: Jake Brodersen ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Screwpile Regatta


Nice job.






From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 10:26:28 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Screwpile Regatta



It was a tough regatta.  On Friday the wind died during our first and only race 
of the day.  One boat managed to drift across the finish line.  The

rest of us were TLE.   Several of the boats drifted downwind of the finish 
line, but couldn’t make it across the course to finish.  It was ugly.



Day two had us running a 12nm distance course with mostly reaching and running. 
 Being the shortest boat in the fleet, we were seriously short of waterline.  
We managed a third place finish.  Finally on Sunday we had decent wind and 
managed two bullets in 7-10kts of wind.  That won the regatta for us (by one 
point)   Nothing like pulling it out of the fire at the last minute…



Jake



Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Screwpile Regatta



Congrats to Jake Brodersen and crew for taking first in the non-spin class once 
again!  They only got in 4 of 9 planned races due to light (or no) winds the 
first 2 days, but 2 bullets on Sunday put them in first.




-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album



Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com










___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Set up of shower in Cockpit

[allen via CnC-List]

Septima's cockpit shower  is plumbed with fresh water as Rick suggests.  The 
shower is located in the walk through on the starboard side, under the 
removable helm seat.  The plumbing runs though the adjacent locker and under 
the cockpit sole directly to the fresh water feed and hot water heater.  We use 
it primarily for rinsing off after swimming, not full showers, although we have 
used it to cool down on extremely hot days so the location is handy when 
reboarding via the transom ladder..

The spot I used was originally the hook up for shore power, but I got tired of 
bending over to unscrew the cover and plug in the electric plug.

Allen Miles


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 5:46 PM
To: George Cone ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Set up of shower in Cockpit


Question 1 is whether your engine is raw water cooled or fresh water cooled. 
Raw water cooling means water from outside the boat is clumped through the 
engine block for cooling, then mixed with the exhaust to cool that, then 
expelled back into the lake. If your engine is raw water cooled, the thermostat 
is probably 160-165 degrees so it may be too hot for your project, and 
diverting cooling water away from the exhaust may cause the hoses to melt.


If your engine is fresh water cooled, there is antifreeze in the engine, which 
is probably routed to the heating coil on your hot water heater and then to a 
heat exchanger (which is sort of like a water-to-water version of the radiator 
in your car) where it is cooled by contact with water drawn in from outside the 
boat. After taking the heat from the engine coolant the outside water is mixed 
with exhaust gasses to cool them and then expelled overboard. The raw water out 
of the heat exchanger is probably 110-120 degrees, but you would not want to 
overheat the exhaust.


Your best bet would be to purchase a cockpit shower kit with a mixing valve and 
then plumb it to draw cool water from your water tank and hot water from the 
water heater. Your problem the would be how much fresh water your tanks can 
hold and how long a shower you intend to take.


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 21, 2014, at 10:14, George Cone via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  I wanted to run a thought by the list to see if my thoughts to install a 
small handheld shower in the back of the cockpit for rinse of and showering at 
the area of the wheel are feasible. My positive reasons for this is extra room 
and ease of draining and overall cleaning. I am considering connecting to the 
input hot water line before it enters the water heater coming from the engine. 
The boat is on fresh water , hence I would have unlimited volume of water 
available, I assume the water would be pure and clean even though it has gone 
through the engine cooling (heating) system, I also assume the temperature of 
the water to only be in the 110 degree level at best, and there is a 
recirculating pump (that normally recirculates the water from the engine 
through the heat exchanger) that can power the water to the shower wand.  So 
where is my thinking flawed?

   

  Thanks,

  George Cone

  CC 40

  Vermont

  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

[allen via CnC-List]

All the aft cabin models used the same nomenclature:  30+, 34+, 37+ nice teak 
interior and double spreader rig:  XL models triple spreader rigs with running 
backstays.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima  30-2+
Hampton, VA


From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2014 11:56 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)


Stu (and any Listers who may be interested), 


You may want this document on the Photo Album site which may be of use to 
others — it’s a diagram of the CC 37+ (and XL) centerboard. I’m told that the 
34+ and XL centerboard models are very similar. 


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/centerboard.pdf 


Also, a correction on the site:  Under CC Owners Homepages, could you change 
my link to www.starshipsailing.com? Also, the Enterprise isn’t a 37/40XL, but a 
37+ (or 37/40+)


Lastly, I have some photos of the 37+ interior and “Dock Photos” if you want 
them. What is the best way to get these to you? 


Thanks for all you do. 





All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log







___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com