Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Bruce - maybe I missed something here, but if you have no pole attachment
on the mast, I would strongly suspect that your spinnaker is an
asymmetrical. I did not see reference to a pole (or topping lift or
downhaul) as being part of the boat's gear, which supports this, as does
your reference to the chute as a "cruising spinnaker" which usually means
asymmetrical.   Anyway, you'll know soon enough.   Great fun either way ,
and LOTS of power.  Josh's description of rigging and gybing a symmetrical
is very good.  An asymmetrical is much easier.  If your spin is an
asymmetrical, you don't have a whisker pole, you would probably find
getting one to be worthwhile.  You can fly a symmetrical as an asymmetrical
(my neighbour does it) but it is trickier to keep filled this way.
Even with the sock, it pays to ensure (every time) that the chute will exit
its bag without twists or tangles, and check the sock lines carefully.
(BTDT;-) )

Dave



- Forwarded message --
From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2017 11:31:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
Bruce:

You can still do a dip pole jibe with a babystay..just disconnect the
baby stay before the spinnaker is raised and connect it when it is doused.
You don't need the baby stay flying a chute.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-07-02 10:29 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input!  Based on what was said, I'll agree that
what we have is a symmetrical spinnaker.  At this point, there is no ring
nor a track on the front of the mast onto which to mount a slide car ring.

There is also a babystay to contend with, which presumably would not allow
me to do the dip-pole approach, but having never done it, perhaps I'm not
visualizing the concept properly.

At any rate, we're cruisers (though we love to cruise fast!), which means
that at least for now, we'll use the spinnaker as asymmetrical, and figure
it out from there.  I have some friends that are due back from a cruise,
and I'm sure they have experience with both types, so that will help me
tremendously.

Thank again, everyone, this list is invaluable!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Whether you do dip pole or end for end gybes, you would need a way to
either disconnect the baby stay or move it back to the mast before you
gybe.  The baby stay is not needed when sailing off the wind.  (My boat has
a track, with the baby stay attached to a car, and a rope clutch holding
the stay forward in heavy air, or in lumpy seas.)

Alan

On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 6:29 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks everyone for your input!  Based on what was said, I'll agree that
> what we have is a symmetrical spinnaker.  At this point, there is no ring
> nor a track on the front of the mast onto which to mount a slide car ring.
>
> There is also a babystay to contend with, which presumably would not allow
> me to do the dip-pole approach, but having never done it, perhaps I'm not
> visualizing the concept properly.
>
> At any rate, we're cruisers (though we love to cruise fast!), which means
> that at least for now, we'll use the spinnaker as asymmetrical, and figure
> it out from there.  I have some friends that are due back from a cruise,
> and I'm sure they have experience with both types, so that will help me
> tremendously.
>
> Thank again, everyone, this list is invaluable!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To:* C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 2, 2017 2:57 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
>
> Most of what Josh said is correct.  However, all symmetrical spinnakers I
> have seen have the numbers on both sides of the spinnaker, so you don't
> have to be concerned about which side is port and which side is
> starboard.Before you buy any necessary gear for the spinnaker, learn about
> end for end gybes and dip pole gybes.  People who do end for end gybes
> swear that they are easier than dip pole gybes, and those who use dip pole,
> swear that they are easier than end for end.  I have done both, and I
> prefer dip pole.  They are safer, as you never have to disconnect the pole
> from the mast during a gybe.  Also the connection to the mast is stronger.
> (I once had the ring on my mast track twist out of shape on a boat with
> which I did end for end.)  That's what caused me to switch to dip pole, and
> I never regretted it.  When I was getting new crew for my boat, none of
> them had ever done dip pole gybes, but I trained them, and they are now
> expert at it.  If you're not going to race your boat, you can use the
> spinnaker as though it were an A-sail, so you should learn about how an
> A-sail is handled also.  You didn't indicate what size boat you have.  With
> a smaller boat,  end for end gybes are the way to go.  At thirty feet, you
> can go either way.  At thirty-four feet and larger, I recommend dip pole.
> Keep in mind, though, it's not the boat length that makes one a better
> choice than the other.  It's the size of the spinnaker.  My previous boat
> was an Ericson 2-30, with a tall mast.  The spinnaker was 1,000 square
> feet, and the boat was set up for dip pole gybes
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 7:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker.  The luff and leach are the same
> length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the
> boat.
>
> You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to
> the mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up
> so that when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and
> the "guy" can fly up.  The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on
> bottom.  Both bridles will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a
> ring fixed in the center.  There isn't much need to have the bridles tight
> so the rings may ride 12 to 24 inches above/below the pole.  The top bridle
> creates a way to lift the pole with a rope that exists the mast about
> halfway up and below impediments such as a radar.  This rope is called the
> topping tift and is used to hold the pole horizontal.  The bottom bridle is
> attached to a rope that attaches to the foredeck directly below.  This rope
> is usually lead aft along the toe rail and cleated off.  It is called thw
> down haul and is used to prevent the outboard end of the pole from being
> lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The inboard end of the pole
> attaches to a ring on a track moun

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[robert via CnC-List]

Bruce:

You can still do a dip pole jibe with a babystay..just disconnect 
the baby stay before the spinnaker is raised and connect it when it is 
doused.  You don't need the baby stay flying a chute.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-07-02 10:29 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input!  Based on what was said, I'll agree 
that what we have is a symmetrical spinnaker.  At this point, there is 
no ring nor a track on the front of the mast onto which to mount a 
slide car ring.


There is also a babystay to contend with, which presumably would not 
allow me to do the dip-pole approach, but having never done it, 
perhaps I'm not visualizing the concept properly.


At any rate, we're cruisers (though we love to cruise fast!), which 
means that at least for now, we'll use the spinnaker as asymmetrical, 
and figure it out from there.  I have some friends that are due back 
from a cruise, and I'm sure they have experience with both types, so 
that will help me tremendously.


Thank again, everyone, this list is invaluable!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



*From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To:* C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
*Sent:* Sunday, July 2, 2017 2:57 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

Most of what Josh said is correct.  However, all symmetrical 
spinnakers I have seen have the numbers on both sides of the 
spinnaker, so you don't have to be concerned about which side is port 
and which side is starboard.Before you buy any necessary gear for the 
spinnaker, learn about end for end gybes and dip pole gybes.  People 
who do end for end gybes swear that they are easier than dip pole 
gybes, and those who use dip pole, swear that they are easier than end 
for end.  I have done both, and I prefer dip pole. They are safer, as 
you never have to disconnect the pole from the mast during a gybe.  
Also the connection to the mast is stronger.  (I once had the ring on 
my mast track twist out of shape on a boat with which I did end for 
end.)  That's what caused me to switch to dip pole, and I never 
regretted it.  When I was getting new crew for my boat, none of them 
had ever done dip pole gybes, but I trained them, and they are now 
expert at it.  If you're not going to race your boat, you can use the 
spinnaker as though it were an A-sail, so you should learn about how 
an A-sail is handled also.  You didn't indicate what size boat you 
have.  With a smaller boat,  end for end gybes are the way to go.  At 
thirty feet, you can go either way.  At thirty-four feet and larger, I 
recommend dip pole.  Keep in mind, though, it's not the boat length 
that makes one a better choice than the other.  It's the size of the 
spinnaker. My previous boat was an Ericson 2-30, with a tall mast.  
The spinnaker was 1,000 square feet, and the boat was set up for dip 
pole gybes


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 7:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker. The luff and leach are the
same length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the
tack of the boat.

You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head
stay to the mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the
boom, jaws facing up so that when they are opened the jaw can fall
away from the mast ring and the "guy" can fly up.  The pole will
have 2 bridles, one on top, one on bottom. Both bridles will be
anchored are the pole ends and will have a ring fixed in the
center.  There isn't much need to have the bridles tight so the
rings may ride 12 to 24 inches above/below the pole.  The top
bridle creates a way to lift the pole with a rope that exists the
mast about halfway up and below impediments such as a radar.  This
rope is called the topping tift and is used to hold the pole
horizontal.  The bottom bridle is attached to a rope that attaches
to the foredeck directly below.  This rope is usually lead aft
along the toe rail and cleated off.  It is called thw down haul
and is used to prevent the outboard end of the pole from being
lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The inboard end of
the pole attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward face
of the mast.  Typically I try to raise the ring to about my
height, this lifts the inboard end of the pole - high but easy to
reach. The topping lift can then be used to lift and hold the rest
of the pole horizontal as mentioned above.  Both jaws on the pole
should have release lines wic

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for your input!  Based on what was said, I'll agree that what 
we have is a symmetrical spinnaker.  At this point, there is no ring nor a 
track on the front of the mast onto which to mount a slide car ring.  

There is also a babystay to contend with, which presumably would not allow me 
to do the dip-pole approach, but having never done it, perhaps I'm not 
visualizing the concept properly.  

At any rate, we're cruisers (though we love to cruise fast!), which means that 
at least for now, we'll use the spinnaker as asymmetrical, and figure it out 
from there.  I have some friends that are due back from a cruise, and I'm sure 
they have experience with both types, so that will help me tremendously.
Thank again, everyone, this list is invaluable!   Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
 Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 2:57 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
   
Most of what Josh said is correct.  However, all symmetrical spinnakers I have 
seen have the numbers on both sides of the spinnaker, so you don't have to be 
concerned about which side is port and which side is starboard.Before you buy 
any necessary gear for the spinnaker, learn about end for end gybes and dip 
pole gybes.  People who do end for end gybes swear that they are easier than 
dip pole gybes, and those who use dip pole, swear that they are easier than end 
for end.  I have done both, and I prefer dip pole.  They are safer, as you 
never have to disconnect the pole from the mast during a gybe.  Also the 
connection to the mast is stronger.  (I once had the ring on my mast track 
twist out of shape on a boat with which I did end for end.)  That's what caused 
me to switch to dip pole, and I never regretted it.  When I was getting new 
crew for my boat, none of them had ever done dip pole gybes, but I trained 
them, and they are now expert at it.  If you're not going to race your boat, 
you can use the spinnaker as though it were an A-sail, so you should learn 
about how an A-sail is handled also.  You didn't indicate what size boat you 
have.  With a smaller boat,  end for end gybes are the way to go.  At thirty 
feet, you can go either way.  At thirty-four feet and larger, I recommend dip 
pole.  Keep in mind, though, it's not the boat length that makes one a better 
choice than the other.  It's the size of the spinnaker.  My previous boat was 
an Ericson 2-30, with a tall mast.  The spinnaker was 1,000 square feet, and 
the boat was set up for dip pole gybes

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 7:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker.  The luff and leach are the same 
length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the boat.  
You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to the 
mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up so that 
when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and the "guy" can 
fly up.  The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on bottom.  Both bridles 
will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a ring fixed in the center.  
There isn't much need to have the bridles tight so the rings may ride 12 to 24 
inches above/below the pole.  The top bridle creates a way to lift the pole 
with a rope that exists the mast about halfway up and below impediments such as 
a radar.  This rope is called the topping tift and is used to hold the pole 
horizontal.  The bottom bridle is attached to a rope that attaches to the 
foredeck directly below.  This rope is usually lead aft along the toe rail and 
cleated off.  It is called thw down haul and is used to prevent the outboard 
end of the pole from being lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The 
inboard end of the pole attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward 
face of the mast.  Typically I try to raise the ring to about my height, this 
lifts the inboard end of the pole - high but easy to reach.  The topping lift 
can then be used to lift and hold the rest of the pole horizontal as mentioned 
above.  Both jaws on the pole should have release lines wich extend ~3/4 of the 
length and are anchored near the opposite end.  This allows the operator to 
open either jaw from nearly any location along the pole.
The out board end of the pole gets the windward spinsheet which until the next 
jibe will be called the "guy".  The leeward spinsheet is just call the sheet.  
Both of these lines are typically run through turning blocks near the aft end 
of the toe rail which keep the lines lead outside of the life lines and then 
fairlead t

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Most of what Josh said is correct.  However, all symmetrical spinnakers I
have seen have the numbers on both sides of the spinnaker, so you don't
have to be concerned about which side is port and which side is
starboard.Before you buy any necessary gear for the spinnaker, learn about
end for end gybes and dip pole gybes.  People who do end for end gybes
swear that they are easier than dip pole gybes, and those who use dip pole,
swear that they are easier than end for end.  I have done both, and I
prefer dip pole.  They are safer, as you never have to disconnect the pole
from the mast during a gybe.  Also the connection to the mast is stronger.
(I once had the ring on my mast track twist out of shape on a boat with
which I did end for end.)  That's what caused me to switch to dip pole, and
I never regretted it.  When I was getting new crew for my boat, none of
them had ever done dip pole gybes, but I trained them, and they are now
expert at it.  If you're not going to race your boat, you can use the
spinnaker as though it were an A-sail, so you should learn about how an
A-sail is handled also.  You didn't indicate what size boat you have.  With
a smaller boat,  end for end gybes are the way to go.  At thirty feet, you
can go either way.  At thirty-four feet and larger, I recommend dip pole.
Keep in mind, though, it's not the boat length that makes one a better
choice than the other.  It's the size of the spinnaker.  My previous boat
was an Ericson 2-30, with a tall mast.  The spinnaker was 1,000 square
feet, and the boat was set up for dip pole gybes

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 7:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker.  The luff and leach are the same
> length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the
> boat.
>
> You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to
> the mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up
> so that when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and
> the "guy" can fly up.  The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on
> bottom.  Both bridles will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a
> ring fixed in the center.  There isn't much need to have the bridles tight
> so the rings may ride 12 to 24 inches above/below the pole.  The top bridle
> creates a way to lift the pole with a rope that exists the mast about
> halfway up and below impediments such as a radar.  This rope is called the
> topping tift and is used to hold the pole horizontal.  The bottom bridle is
> attached to a rope that attaches to the foredeck directly below.  This rope
> is usually lead aft along the toe rail and cleated off.  It is called thw
> down haul and is used to prevent the outboard end of the pole from being
> lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The inboard end of the pole
> attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward face of the mast.
> Typically I try to raise the ring to about my height, this lifts the
> inboard end of the pole - high but easy to reach.  The topping lift can
> then be used to lift and hold the rest of the pole horizontal as mentioned
> above.  Both jaws on the pole should have release lines wich extend ~3/4 of
> the length and are anchored near the opposite end.  This allows the
> operator to open either jaw from nearly any location along the pole.
>
> The out board end of the pole gets the windward spinsheet which until the
> next jibe will be called the "guy".  The leeward spinsheet is just call the
> sheet.  Both of these lines are typically run through turning blocks near
> the aft end of the toe rail which keep the lines lead outside of the life
> lines and then fairlead them inside to a secondary winch.  Trimming the guy
> means keeping the pole perpendicular to the wind.  Trimming the sheet means
> letting it out until the windward sail edge (pole side) begins to curl -
> too much curl? - sheet in.  Every time you jibe you will sail dead down
> wind ease the guy so that the pole is roughly at a 45° angle.  The sheet
> should be roughly matched.  Standing infront of the mast facing forward the
> foredeck operator will reach up to the mast ring, pull the jaw release for
> the jaw in the ring.  The pole is now supported by and free to pivot about
> on the top and bottom bridles.  What was the inboard jaw is now pushed out
> towards what was the leeward side of the boat.  The jaw is opened and what
> was the sheet is hooked in the jaw.  Next what was the outboard end jaw is
> opened releasing what was the guy and that jaw is hooked to the mast ring.
> The foredeck operator shouts "MADE!" so that the helm can finish the
> maneuver by jibing the mainsail and the crew can trim the spinnaker.  The
> old guy is now the sheet and the old sheet is now the guy.  The "leach" and
> the "luff" have also swapped.
>
> Some setups include "twings" which are open 

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker.  The luff and leach are the same
length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the
boat.

You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to
the mast).  The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up
so that when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and
the "guy" can fly up.  The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on
bottom.  Both bridles will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a
ring fixed in the center.  There isn't much need to have the bridles tight
so the rings may ride 12 to 24 inches above/below the pole.  The top bridle
creates a way to lift the pole with a rope that exists the mast about
halfway up and below impediments such as a radar.  This rope is called the
topping tift and is used to hold the pole horizontal.  The bottom bridle is
attached to a rope that attaches to the foredeck directly below.  This rope
is usually lead aft along the toe rail and cleated off.  It is called thw
down haul and is used to prevent the outboard end of the pole from being
lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away".  The inboard end of the pole
attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward face of the mast.
Typically I try to raise the ring to about my height, this lifts the
inboard end of the pole - high but easy to reach.  The topping lift can
then be used to lift and hold the rest of the pole horizontal as mentioned
above.  Both jaws on the pole should have release lines wich extend ~3/4 of
the length and are anchored near the opposite end.  This allows the
operator to open either jaw from nearly any location along the pole.

The out board end of the pole gets the windward spinsheet which until the
next jibe will be called the "guy".  The leeward spinsheet is just call the
sheet.  Both of these lines are typically run through turning blocks near
the aft end of the toe rail which keep the lines lead outside of the life
lines and then fairlead them inside to a secondary winch.  Trimming the guy
means keeping the pole perpendicular to the wind.  Trimming the sheet means
letting it out until the windward sail edge (pole side) begins to curl -
too much curl? - sheet in.  Every time you jibe you will sail dead down
wind ease the guy so that the pole is roughly at a 45° angle.  The sheet
should be roughly matched.  Standing infront of the mast facing forward the
foredeck operator will reach up to the mast ring, pull the jaw release for
the jaw in the ring.  The pole is now supported by and free to pivot about
on the top and bottom bridles.  What was the inboard jaw is now pushed out
towards what was the leeward side of the boat.  The jaw is opened and what
was the sheet is hooked in the jaw.  Next what was the outboard end jaw is
opened releasing what was the guy and that jaw is hooked to the mast ring.
The foredeck operator shouts "MADE!" so that the helm can finish the
maneuver by jibing the mainsail and the crew can trim the spinnaker.  The
old guy is now the sheet and the old sheet is now the guy.  The "leach" and
the "luff" have also swapped.

Some setups include "twings" which are open cheak snatch blocks placed at
the widest part of the toe rail on each side of the boat.  This holds the
guy down and helps prevent the pole from flying in addition to the down
haul.  Early in the jibe (about the same time that the helm is turning dead
down wind) the guy is released from the twing, again windward side = guy.
After the pole is "MADE!" the new guy will be inserted into its respective
twing on the new windward side.

Each sheet will probably need to be about twice the boat length.

This is an end for end jibe and its easier to show than to explain and
easier to explain than to master.

Oh, and the green stripe usually would indicate the starboard side of the
sail but that is just so that the front faces forward and numbers can be
read.  Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow
stripe on the foot.  This also help when packing the sail in a traditional
bag.  Since you have a sock it is less needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 1, 2017 8:33 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

OK, seems like a dumb question.  We spread out the cruising spinnaker on
our lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C
37/40+/.  It is in a spinnaker sock.  The sheets were in the bag, but not
attached to the sail.  It is made by UK.  Along one edge is a bright green
strip.  It seems like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't
tell for sure.  There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a
cable or reinforced luff seemingly build in.  Both sides seem to be the
same length.  Do I have an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the
green the leach or the luff?

New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

If luff and leech are the same length, it's a symmetrical kite. Don't let that 
stop you flying it as if it was asymmetrical.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jul 1, 2017, at 20:32, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK, seems like a dumb question.  We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our 
> lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C 37/40+/.  It 
> is in a spinnaker sock.  The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the 
> sail.  It is made by UK.  Along one edge is a bright green strip.  It seems 
> like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure.  
> There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced 
> luff seemingly build in.  Both sides seem to be the same length.  Do I have 
> an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff?  
> 
> New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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