Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2016-01-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


That seems simple enough... replace the gas A4 with a diesel  :)


At 07:43 AM 28/12/2015, you wrote:
Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. 
That's one of its big advantages on boats, that 
it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut 
down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but 
they're probably asking that more as a general 
policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or 
in case some gasoline vapors wafted over to your boat).Â


The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F:Â
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here:Â 
<http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/>http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/


On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, 
<<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From:Â Rick Rohwer <<mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>rickroh...@gmail.com>
To:Â <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:Â
Date:Â Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
Subject:Â Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up 
like gasoline vapor.  I know vaporized cooking 
fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask 
you to shut down the engine and run the fan while fueling?Â


I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine. Â

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA



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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-31 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
Joe, I have a 10 foot Caribe RIB and a 9.8 Tohatsu 4 stroke.  Together with
full  fuel tank in the dinghy that's about 200 pounds and I find it a bit
much for towing behind and it doesn't tow well at all; even with the
outboard fully raised the prop can drag in the water at 6 kts so for
cruising last summer I used  my little 8 foot fiberglass dinghy and oars, a
little more care required in getting on and off the boat without tipping
the dinghy but much easier to tow behind...it does the trick, but I plan to
get a little Suzuki 2.5 hp instead, that will work nice on the little
fiberglass dinghy when cruising and I'll use my Caribe setup for back and
forth to the mooring.

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 5:46 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Avon 340 RIB has never even got close to flipping in the Chesapeake. I
> would have to get some other kind of dinghy if I went someplace I could not
> tow it, no way the 15 HP engine is coming off except once a year for a
> fresh water flush.
> Joe
> Coquina
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> ahycrace--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 4:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ahycr...@cox.net
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL
> CHARACTERISTICS
>
> We  had the dink flip over in buzzards bay and we were lucky to get most
> of the contents back so now (for the last 20 yrs) we never keep anything in
> it when we are underway.
>
>Gary Kolc
>   "Liberty"
>  "Della Barba wrote:
> > +1
> > Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
> > I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from
> the skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a
> Clorox bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
> > Joe
> > Coquina
> >
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-31 Thread ahycrace--- via CnC-List
We  have a 10' Achilles with a wood floor 8 hp nissan. With the motor off and 
the dink empty it's very light doesn't slow us down at all.
I keep it short and directly in back of the big boat even if it flips (and it 
hasn't in a long time ) no problem,  just get it to flip back. that's my story 
and I'm stickin to it !

Gary Kolc
  Liberty
 dwight veinot via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> Joe, I have a 10 foot Caribe RIB and a 9.8 Tohatsu 4 stroke.  Together with
> full  fuel tank in the dinghy that's about 200 pounds and I find it a bit
> much for towing behind and it doesn't tow well at all; even with the
> outboard fully raised the prop can drag in the water at 6 kts so for
> cruising last summer I used  my little 8 foot fiberglass dinghy and oars, a
> little more care required in getting on and off the boat without tipping
> the dinghy but much easier to tow behind...it does the trick, but I plan to
> get a little Suzuki 2.5 hp instead, that will work nice on the little
> fiberglass dinghy when cruising and I'll use my Caribe setup for back and
> forth to the mooring.
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 5:46 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > My Avon 340 RIB has never even got close to flipping in the Chesapeake. I
> > would have to get some other kind of dinghy if I went someplace I could not
> > tow it, no way the 15 HP engine is coming off except once a year for a
> > fresh water flush.
> > Joe
> > Coquina
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> > ahycrace--- via CnC-List
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 4:19 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: ahycr...@cox.net
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL
> > CHARACTERISTICS
> >
> > We  had the dink flip over in buzzards bay and we were lucky to get most
> > of the contents back so now (for the last 20 yrs) we never keep anything in
> > it when we are underway.
> >
> >Gary Kolc
> >   "Liberty"
> >  "Della Barba wrote:
> > > +1
> > > Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
> > > I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from
> > the skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a
> > Clorox bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
> > > Joe
> > > Coquina
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-30 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
I have a six gallon gas tank that has a groove across the bottom. That
makes it a great fit for tying to the pushpit with the lower rail in that
groove.

Tim

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1
>
> Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
>
> I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from
> the skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a
> Clorox bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki - Jabsco part number

2015-12-30 Thread O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List
Ryan
In case helpful, when I replaced the blower on my 29-2 I could read the part 
number on the old one and buy the same. It installed without modifications.  It 
is ignition protected but not the heavy duty model sold for commercial 
operation.  

Jabsco Blower 34739-0010 DC 12V
Tom O'Keeffe   Bridie MaeC 29-2 1984Douglaston, NY
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-30 Thread Sailnomad via CnC-List
On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 6:50 PM, Ahmet <ah...@sailnomad.com> wrote:

> Well, it is a combination. A good example here:
> The C 25 has an aft compartment under the tiller, where the gas tank
> sits. It is practically on the cockpit, and any fumes just drain out from a
> little drain hole.
> Now some industrious owners (like a previous owner of "Tabasco") decided
> to open up that area and have more space in the cockpit. Which is
> wonderful, but now, the fule tank is in a lazarette locker, hence any fumes
> or fuel leaks from an expansion, will leak into the bilge.
> So I am paranoid, and open up and smell the lazarettes every time. When I
> get a chance, I will rebuild a new fuel tank compartment in the aft section
> of the cockpit.
> So dinghy fuel tanks, propane or what not are very safe as long as there
> is room for the accidentally escaped gas to get away from the inside of the
> boat.
> I once had a bad junction in my propane tank. 10 lbs of propane leaked
> within a day out thtough the went hole into the the ocean/air, and nobody
> was ever in danger.
> Ahmet
> S/V Waterdancer Irwin 43 CC
> Tabasco (C 25)
>
>
> *(just for kicks .. previous boats:)Tapalonong 1995 Whaler Dountless 13 *
>
>
> *S/V Nomad 1984 Catalina 36S/V Harmony 1972 Bristol 26Second Wind 1987 Sea
> Ray 30 Sundancer*
> *Kismet 2002 MacGregor 26X*
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 5:09 PM, jtsails via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things
>> we have on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the
>> dinghy, the propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the
>> admirals hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go
>> boom! Every boat needs a blower that is properly installed and used!
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C 38 Mk11
>> Oriental, NC
>>
>> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
>> *To:* mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL
>> CHARACTERISTICS
>>
>>
>> The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on
>> a red hot exhaust or turbo component.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
>> veinot via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* dwight veinot
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL
>> CHARACTERISTICS
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good
>> information based on sound knowledge, especially this part:
>>
>> Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces
>> very desirable
>>
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>>
>> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>>
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information.
>> So here goes:
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.
>>
>>
>>
>> And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less
>> likely to support a flame than Gasoline as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to
>> evaporate) of Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash
>> point of #2 diesel is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if
>> you use B10 or B15 in your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.
>>
>>
>>
>> The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air
>> that will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a
>> concentration and you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and
>> not too bright, you can throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and
>> nothing happens. For gasoline the range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty
>> similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.
>>
>>
>>
>> The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas
>> and diesel are also very sim

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-30 Thread ahycrace--- via CnC-List
We  had the dink flip over in buzzards bay and we were lucky to get most of the 
contents back so now (for the last 20 yrs) we never keep anything in it when we 
are underway.

   Gary Kolc
  "Liberty"
 "Della Barba wrote: 
> +1
> Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
> I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from the 
> skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a Clorox 
> bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
> Joe
> Coquina
> 
> 
>

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-30 Thread David via CnC-List
Folks keep dinghy gas aboard the Mother-Ship?   We keep ours well secured in 
the dinghy.  Eliminates a lot of worry and smell and mess and...and

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 17:09:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki  NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: jtsai...@gmail.com









since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things we 
have on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the dinghy, 
the propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the admirals 
hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go boom! Every boat 
needs a blower that is properly installed and used!
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC


 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS
 


The 
typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red hot 
exhaust or turbo component.
 
Joe
Coquina
 
 
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS
 



Rick
Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very 
good information based on sound knowledge, especially this part:

Lots 
of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces very 
desirable







Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 
 

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


The 
geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So here 
goes:
 
Yes, 
Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized 
gasoline.
 
And 
Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.
 
The 
flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your 
boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.
 
The 
ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that will 
support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and you 
get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 
7.5%.
 
The 
ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and diesel 
are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.
 
But 
gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 
F will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle 
unless the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but 
your nose can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would 
support ignition.
 
Since 
the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) at 
standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible vapor 
sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, except 
a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even high 
pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines is 
more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.
 
The 
flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is another 
specification called the fire point that is probably a better illustration of 
the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is the temperature 
at 
which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high enough to support 
a 
flame for 5 seconds – which is enough time to cause significant evaporation of 
the liquid and start a real  fire (as opposed to a momentary flash). Liquid 
gasoline has a fire point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid diesel is 154 F (68 
C).
 
So 
unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely to get 
a 
fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the 
engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high probablility 
event.
 
Rick 
Brass
Washington, 
NC
 
 
 
 
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 
AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pr

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-30 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
+1
Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from the 
skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a Clorox 
bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 10:16 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

Folks keep dinghy gas aboard the Mother-Ship?   We keep ours well secured in 
the dinghy.  Eliminates a lot of worry and smell and mess and...and

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 17:09:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
CC: jtsai...@gmail.com<mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>
since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things we have 
on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the dinghy, the 
propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the admirals 
hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go boom! Every boat 
needs a blower that is properly installed and used!
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe<mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red 
hot exhaust or turbo component.

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

Rick
Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good information 
based on sound knowledge, especially this part:

Lots of smell - which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces very 
desirable

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net<mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>


On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So 
here goes:

Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.

And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.

The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.

The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that 
will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and 
you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.

The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and 
diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.

But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 F 
will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle unless 
the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but your nose 
can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would support 
ignition.

Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) 
at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible 
vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, 
except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even 
high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines 
is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.

The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is 
another specification called the fire point that is probably a better 
illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is 
the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high 
enough to support

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So 
here goes:

 

Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.

 

And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.

 

The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.

 

The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that 
will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and 
you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.

 

The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and 
diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.

 

But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 F 
will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle unless 
the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but your nose 
can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would support 
ignition.

 

Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) 
at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible 
vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, 
except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even 
high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines 
is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.

 

The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is 
another specification called the fire point that is probably a better 
illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is 
the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high 
enough to support a flame for 5 seconds – which is enough time to cause 
significant evaporation of the liquid and start a real  fire (as opposed to a 
momentary flash). Liquid gasoline has a fire point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid 
diesel is 154 F (68 C).

 

So unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely to 
get a fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to 
ventilate the engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high 
probablility event.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big 
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut down 
the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that more as a 
general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case some gasoline 
vapors wafted over to your boat). 

 

The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

 

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here: 
http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/

 

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From: Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com <mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: 
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I know 
vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to shut down 
the engine and run the fan while fueling? 

 

I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.  

 

Rick

Paikea 37+

Poulsbo, WA

 

___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
Rick

Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good
information based on sound knowledge, especially this part:

Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces very
desirable

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information.
> So here goes:
>
>
>
> Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.
>
>
>
> And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less
> likely to support a flame than Gasoline as well.
>
>
>
> The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate)
> of Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2
> diesel is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or
> B15 in your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.
>
>
>
> The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air
> that will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a
> concentration and you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and
> not too bright, you can throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and
> nothing happens. For gasoline the range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty
> similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.
>
>
>
> The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and
> diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.
>
>
>
> But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you
> are likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above
> -45 F will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle
> unless the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle,
> but your nose can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration
> that would support ignition.
>
>
>
> Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition
> 1.0) at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the
> combustible vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do
> the same thing, except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not
> exist at STP. Even high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one
> of your injector lines is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high
> a concentration to support ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.
>
>
>
> The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is
> another specification called the fire point that is probably a better
> illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point
> is the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor
> concentration high enough to support a flame for 5 seconds – which is
> enough time to cause significant evaporation of the liquid and start a
> real  fire (as opposed to a momentary flash). Liquid gasoline has a fire
> point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid diesel is 154 F (68 C).
>
>
>
> So unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely
> to get a fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to
> ventilate the engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high
> probablility event.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> Davin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
>
>
>
> Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big
> advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut
> down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that
> more as a general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case
> some gasoline vapors wafted over to your boat).
>
>
>
> The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F:
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples
>
>
>
> There's a good writeup on engine blowers here:
> http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
>
> I am pretty

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red 
hot exhaust or turbo component.

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

Rick
Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good information 
based on sound knowledge, especially this part:

Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces very 
desirable

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net<mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>


On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So 
here goes:

Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.

And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.

The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.

The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that 
will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and 
you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.

The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and 
diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.

But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 F 
will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle unless 
the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but your nose 
can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would support 
ignition.

Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) 
at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible 
vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, 
except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even 
high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines 
is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.

The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is 
another specification called the fire point that is probably a better 
illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is 
the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high 
enough to support a flame for 5 seconds – which is enough time to cause 
significant evaporation of the liquid and start a real  fire (as opposed to a 
momentary flash). Liquid gasoline has a fire point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid 
diesel is 154 F (68 C).

So unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely to 
get a fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to 
ventilate the engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high 
probablility event.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC




From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com<mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big 
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut down 
the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that more as a 
general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case some gasoline 
vapors wafted over to your boat).

The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here: 
http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
-- Forwarded message --
From: Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com<mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread Ahmet via CnC-List
Well, it is a combination. A good example here:
The C 25 has an aft compartment under the tiller, where the gas tank
sits. It is practically on the cockpit, and any fumes just drain out from a
little drain hole.
Now some industrious owners (like a previous owner of "Tabasco") decided to
open up that area and have more space in the cockpit. Which is wonderful,
but now, the fule tank is in a lazarette locker, hence any fumes or fuel
leaks from an expansion, will leak into the bilge.
So I am paranoid, and open up and smell the lazarettes every time. When I
get a chance, I will rebuild a new fuel tank compartment in the aft section
of the cockpit.
So dinghy fuel tanks, propane or what not are very safe as long as there is
room for the accidentally escaped gas to get away from the inside of the
boat.
I once had a bad junction in my propane tank. 10 lbs of propane leaked
within a day out thtough the went hole into the the ocean/air, and nobody
was ever in danger.
Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer Irwin 43 CC
Tabasco (C 25)


*(just for kicks .. previous boats:)Tapalonong 1995 Whaler Dountless 13 *


*S/V Nomad 1984 Catalina 36S/V Harmony 1972 Bristol 26Second Wind 1987 Sea
Ray 30 Sundancer*
*Kismet 2002 MacGregor 26X*



On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 5:09 PM, jtsails via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things we
> have on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the
> dinghy, the propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the
> admirals hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go
> boom! Every boat needs a blower that is properly installed and used!
> James
> Delaney
> C 38 Mk11
> Oriental, NC
>
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
> *To:* mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL
> CHARACTERISTICS
>
>
> The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on
> a red hot exhaust or turbo component.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL
> CHARACTERISTICS
>
>
>
> Rick
>
> Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good
> information based on sound knowledge, especially this part:
>
> Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces
> very desirable
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information.
> So here goes:
>
>
>
> Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.
>
>
>
> And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less
> likely to support a flame than Gasoline as well.
>
>
>
> The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate)
> of Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2
> diesel is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or
> B15 in your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.
>
>
>
> The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air
> that will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a
> concentration and you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and
> not too bright, you can throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and
> nothing happens. For gasoline the range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty
> similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.
>
>
>
> The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and
> diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.
>
>
>
> But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you
> are likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above
> -45 F will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle
> unless the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle,
> but your nose can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration
> that would support ignition.
>
>
>
> Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition
> 1.0) at standard temperature and pressure 

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-29 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
It is a bit misleading to say vaporized diesel can explode.  "Atomized"
diesel can explode.  Atomized motor oil can explode too.  The difference
being that a puddle of gasoline is volatile and will vaporize at room
temperature.  Diesel will not and would need to be atomized by pressuring
it through a nozzle.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Dec 28, 2015, 1:17 AM Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I
> know vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to
> shut down the engine and run the fan while fueling?
>
> I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.
>
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
>
>
>
> On Dec 27, 2015, at 9:13 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine
> blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?
>
> I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern
> of my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a
> prior owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live)
> but never completely removed.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing
>
> West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for
> diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our
> engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern
> boat designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs
> engine installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the
> thinking of the times in the 80's?
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
>> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is
>> blower exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and
>> sits there - air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is
>> original. The hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?
>>
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> Siskiwit Bay Marina
>> Lake Superior
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread jtsails via CnC-List
since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things we have 
on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the dinghy, the 
propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the admirals 
hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go boom! Every boat 
needs a blower that is properly installed and used!
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red 
hot exhaust or turbo component.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

 

Rick

Nothing about that sounds like a geek to me, just some very good information 
based on sound knowledge, especially this part:

Lots of smell – which may make a blower to ventilate the engine spaces very 
desirable




Dwight Veinot

C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

 

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

The geek in me just has to jump in here with some technical information. So 
here goes:

 

Yes, Rick, vaporized diesel will blow up like vaporized gasoline.

 

And Yes, Patrick, diesel does not vaporize easily. And is a lot less likely to 
support a flame than Gasoline as well.

 

The flash point (lowest temperature at which a liquid starts to evaporate) of 
Gasoline is -45 to -50 degrees F (-60 C, I think). The flash point of #2 diesel 
is 126 F (52 C). Biodiesel, BTW, is about 225 F so if you use B10 or B15 in 
your boat the flash point of the fuel would be higher.

 

The ignition concentration of a fuel vapor is the percent of fuel vs air that 
will support ignition. Too low a concentration or too high a concentration and 
you get no fire. That is why (if you are very lucky and not too bright, you can 
throw a lit match into a bowl of gasoline and nothing happens. For gasoline the 
range is 1.4% to 7.6%.  Diesel is pretty similar at 0.6% to 7.5%.

 

The ignition point (temperature at which it will start burning) of gas and 
diesel are also very similar. Gas is 475 F, and diesel is 494 F.

 

But gasoline is much more volatile, and at much lower temperatures. So you are 
likely to find gasoline vapor vs. diesel vapor.  Any fuel leak at above -45 F 
will result in gasoline vapor. A diesel leak will just make a  puddle unless 
the temperature is above 126 F. Yes, it would be a smelly puddle, but your nose 
can sense vapor concentrations far below the concentration that would support 
ignition.

 

Since the density of the gasoline vapor is about 2.0 (air is by definition 1.0) 
at standard temperature and pressure (70 F and sea level), the combustible 
vapor sinks to the bottom of your bilge. Diesel vapor would do the same thing, 
except a measurable concentration of diesel vapor could not exist at STP. Even 
high pressure diesel forced out of a pinhole leak in one of your injector lines 
is more likely to result in a smelly mist (too high a concentration to support 
ignition) than in a combustible fuel vapor.

 

The flash point indicates when a liquid starts to evaporate. But there is 
another specification called the fire point that is probably a better 
illustration of the relative risk from gasoline vs. diesel. The fire point is 
the temperature at which a liquid fuel will generate a vapor concentration high 
enough to support a flame for 5 seconds – which is enough time to cause 
significant evaporation of the liquid and start a real  fire (as opposed to a 
momentary flash). Liquid gasoline has a fire point of 30 F (-1 C), while liquid 
diesel is 154 F (68 C).

 

So unless you are boating in some really ridiculous heat, you are unlikely to 
get a fire from diesel fuel. Lots of smell – which may make a blower to 
ventilate the engine spaces very desirable – but a fire is not a high 
probablility event.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big 
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut down 
the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that more as a 
general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case some gasoline 
vapors wafted over to your boat). 

 

The flash point (vapor

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL CHARACTERISTICS

2015-12-29 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
You’re right, Joe. 

 

That isn’t an example of an explosive vapor ignited by a spark, but rather a 
liquid mist being heated above the 494 F ignition point of the liquid. And 
that’s not a situation that a blower would help avoid.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:11 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOW FUEL 
CHARACTERISTICS

 

The typical diesel fire scenario is a high pressure fuel leak spraying on a red 
hot exhaust or turbo component.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-28 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
I have a full cockpit enclosure on s/v Rainy Days.  When motoring with the 
enclosure in place, the engine's intake air must come from within the 
enclosure, reducing the oxygen content in the enclosure.  I have a new blower 
but the intake and exit are presently inside the enclosure.  I have to modify 
my enclosure so that its not this way.   So, if you ever plan on adding a full 
cockpit enclosure, you have to pay attention to where the engine's intake air 
is coming from...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 28, 2015, at 12:13 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine 
> blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?  
> 
> I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern of 
> my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a prior 
> owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live) but never 
> completely removed. 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing
> 
> West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for 
> diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our 
> engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern boat 
> designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs engine 
> installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the thinking of 
> the times in the 80's? 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
>> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower 
>> exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there - 
>> air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The 
>> hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?  
>> 
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> Siskiwit Bay Marina
>> Lake Superior
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-28 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
I suspect that C decided to just put blowers everywhere and then not have to 
worry about what kind of engine got installed. Also diesel engines can be 
smelly and maybe they thought it was nice to have a way to pull the fumes out. 
I have never ever heard of a diesel leak causing an explosion, but many a boat 
has burned when a fuel leak encountered a red-hot turbo, Prior to turbochargers 
being water cooled this was a cause of numerous fires.
BTW – there is no way a diesel engine can reduce the oxygen in your boat 
without reducing the air pressure in general. If your enclosure is tight enough 
to hold vacuum it is way better than most!
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer; Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

I have a full cockpit enclosure on s/v Rainy Days.  When motoring with the 
enclosure in place, the engine's intake air must come from within the 
enclosure, reducing the oxygen content in the enclosure.  I have a new blower 
but the intake and exit are presently inside the enclosure.  I have to modify 
my enclosure so that its not this way.   So, if you ever plan on adding a full 
cockpit enclosure, you have to pay attention to where the engine's intake air 
is coming from...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

On Dec 28, 2015, at 12:13 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine 
blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?

I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern of 
my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a prior 
owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live) but never 
completely removed.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing

West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for 
diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our 
engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern boat 
designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs engine 
installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the thinking of 
the times in the 80's?

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


-- Forwarded message --
From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com<mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower 
exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there - air 
intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The hose 
diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-28 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Interesting. We have a full cockpit enclosure too, but it doesn't cover the
two stern dorades (they're outside the enclosure) which I presume feed
engine air pretty well (they're above where the old blower was).  Our
enclosure also is nowhere near air tight - lots of air comes in / leaves
through the open corners and bottom edges. But diesels could consume a lot
of air so with a really air tight enclosure also enclosing the dorades I
could see the need for a blower.



On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:08 AM, Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com> wrote:

> I have a full cockpit enclosure on s/v Rainy Days.  When motoring with the
> enclosure in place, the engine's intake air must come from within the
> enclosure, reducing the oxygen content in the enclosure.  I have a new
> blower but the intake and exit are presently inside the enclosure.  I have
> to modify my enclosure so that its not this way.   So, if you ever plan on
> adding a full cockpit enclosure, you have to pay attention to where the
> engine's intake air is coming from...
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <dainyr...@icloud.com>
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 12:13 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine
> blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?
>
> I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern
> of my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a
> prior owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live)
> but never completely removed.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing
>
> West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for
> diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our
> engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern
> boat designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs
> engine installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the
> thinking of the times in the 80's?
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
>> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is
>> blower exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and
>> sits there - air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is
>> original. The hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?
>>
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> Siskiwit Bay Marina
>> Lake Superior
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-28 Thread David via CnC-List
My blower (pulling stale air out) and comes on automatically with the ignition. 
  Serves two purposes;

Diesels loves lots O'air in addition to clean fuel Keeps air temperature in 
cockpit locker temperate where the refrigerator compressor resides.  More 
efficient. Eliminates the human factor in it being on for #'s 1 & 2

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rickroh...@gmail.com

I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I know 
vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to shut down 
the engine and run the fan while fueling? 
I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.  
RickPaikea 37+Poulsbo, WA


On Dec 27, 2015, at 9:13 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed 
marine blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?  
I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern of 
my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a prior 
owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live) but never 
completely removed. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing

West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for 
diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our 
engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern boat 
designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs engine 
installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the thinking of 
the times in the 80's? 
-Patrick1984 C LF38Seattle, WA
On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM,  <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:


-- Forwarded message --
From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: 
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower 
exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there - air 
intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The hose 
diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?  
Nate"Sarah Jean"Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior


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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-28 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut
down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that
more as a general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case
some gasoline vapors wafted over to your boat).

The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here:
http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
> I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I
> know vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to
> shut down the engine and run the fan while fueling?
>
> I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.
>
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
>
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-27 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine
blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?

I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern
of my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a
prior owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live)
but never completely removed.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing

West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for
diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our
engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern
boat designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs
engine installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the
thinking of the times in the 80's?

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is
> blower exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits
> there - air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is
> original. The hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?
>
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-27 Thread Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I know 
vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to shut down 
the engine and run the fan while fueling? 

I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA



> On Dec 27, 2015, at 9:13 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine 
> blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?  
> 
> I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern of 
> my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a prior 
> owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live) but never 
> completely removed. 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing 
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing>
> 
> West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for 
> diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our 
> engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern boat 
> designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs engine 
> installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the thinking of 
> the times in the 80's? 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com <mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: 
> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower 
> exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there - 
> air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The 
> hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?  
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-24 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
I just went down to Penniless and looked at the blower system – it is about 70 
degrees here on the Eastern Shore of Maryland – Merry Christmas…..

 

We have 3 inch flex hose from the dorades to the engine area. One has a blower 
in-line – it is a metal unit (surprisingly not rusted after 35 years) which has 
the input hose coming into the center of the spiral and the output coming out 
of the ‘nozzle’ part. It is mounted through the support for the rudder post 
(behind the post) with the exhaust going up to the starboard dorade. The blower 
is labeled ‘high capacity’, but I couldn’t get any numbers off – maybe when I 
can climb down into the lazerette and stretch out back there… But the 
likelihood of finding a duplicate is slim.

 

There’s a similar unit in the West catalog.

 

Good luck, Gary

1980 #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Hey all, 

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm 
almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower.  I 
removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging by the look 
of it, it may have been original.  

The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it 
was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the 
two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is used to 
just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing 
hooked up to that. 

I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm 
I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine 
compartment of gasoline fumes.  

Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and 
the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.

 

Thanks!

 

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  > wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
From: Robert Boyer  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com  " 
 >, jda...@gmail.com 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
>   via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment.
>
> C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they 
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid 
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several 
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The 

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Make sure the replacement is designed specifically for venting explosive 
gasses, and not just general ventilation.


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2015 1:44 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:

Hey all,

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 
mki.  I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to 
replacing the blower.  I removed the the old unit because the fan 
motor was dead.  Judging by the look of it, it may have been original.


The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure 
how it was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted 
through one of the two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the 
other dorade vent is used to just allow outside air into the engeine 
compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that.


I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, 
and I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my 
engine compartment of gasoline fumes.


Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the 
blower(s) and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to 
hear it.


Thanks!




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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
My 30-1 has a flexible hose of about 4 inches in diameter hooked to each 
dorade. I have a diesel, so am not as concerned about getting fumes out, so 
have put smaller vents where the dorados exit. One of the vent hoses is hooked 
through the blower. I will go over to the boat tomorrow and read the specs off 
the blower for you. I would guess that one of the dorades should point forward 
and that hose should just exit near the engine (mine does) and the one through 
the blower should face aft. It sounds like you have the original setup.

 

Gary #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Hey all, 

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm 
almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower.  I 
removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging by the look 
of it, it may have been original.  

The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it 
was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the 
two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is used to 
just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing 
hooked up to that. 

I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm 
I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine 
compartment of gasoline fumes.  

Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and 
the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.

 

Thanks!

 

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  > wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
From: Robert Boyer  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com  " 
 >, jda...@gmail.com 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
>   via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment.
>
> C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they 
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid 
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several 
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks 
> like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood 
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, 
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>
> Pictures:
> 

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
On my Viking i ran all new hose to the vents on the transom.  I used the blower 
to pull air out of the back of the engine compartment and attached the other 
end of the hose to one vent and faced its scoop aft.  The other scoop I faced 
forward and ran the hos attached to it to the front of the engine compartment.  
I figured that way I'd get the benefit of moving forward to continually add 
fresh air to the engine compartment.  It is just my own logic that came to that 
setup but, I never did blow up! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 15:05:08 -0500


Something like this might be what you are looking for:
 
3 in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition 
protected  6 AMP fuse 
(http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or 
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1450901052=8-1=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge
Or : http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K or 
http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-240-Marine-Blower-4-Inch/dp/B000O8D0IC
 
Marek
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 14:53
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
 
You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.
 
Joe 
Coquina
 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Ryan,

Like most others, my blower (3" commonly found) exhaust via an aft cowl vent.

I don't recall anyone mention that gas fumes be 
heavier than air, so the intake hose should be as 
low as practical and below the lowest possible ignition point.

I have the intake laying alongside the aft port engine mount.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:44 AM 23/12/2015, you wrote:

Hey all,

I'm looking for input on a good blower 
installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm almost 
through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to 
replacing the blower.  I removed the the old 
unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging 
by the look of it, it may have been original.Â


The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so 
I'm not exactly sure how it was originally 
hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted 
through one of the two dorade vents on the 
transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is 
used to just allow outside air into the engeine 
compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that.


I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet 
setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm I'm looking for 
the safest and most effective way to clear my 
engine compartment of gasoline fumes.Â


Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size 
(in CFM) of the blower(s) and the proper 
diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.


Thanks!
___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower
exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there -
air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The
hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:44 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30
> mki.  I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing
> the blower.  I removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.
> Judging by the look of it, it may have been original.
>
> The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how
> it was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one
> of the two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is
> used to just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there
> is nothing hooked up to that.
>
> I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and
> I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine
> compartment of gasoline fumes.
>
> Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s)
> and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
>> From: Robert Boyer 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com" , jda...@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>> Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So,
>> in 1983 that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>>
>> > On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring.
>> Except on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my
>> windlass. I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening
>> outboard.
>> >
>> > Doug Mountjoy
>> > svPegasus
>> > LF38
>> > just west of Ballard, WA.
>> >
>> >
>> > -- Original message--
>> > From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
>> > Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> > Cc: Patrick Davin;
>> > Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>> >
>> > Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
>> attachment.
>> >
>> > C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were
>> they thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor
>> locker lid hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck)
>> because several screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The
>> surprise was it looks like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood
>> coring. Screws in wood core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck
>> takes the most waves, and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>> >
>> > Pictures:
>> >
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing
>> >
>> > Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that
>> it's cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>> >
>> > The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is
>> about 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the
>> toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
>> differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems
>> like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't
>> have had to screw in to coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick
>> enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some 

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread D Harben via CnC-List
My fridge compressor/radiator is in the engine compartment. I ran the intake 
vent piping to the radiator to get the cooler air. The exhaust vent pipe runs 
to forward lowest area of the engine compartment. I upgraded to 4" to Max the 
air movement and tried for a quieter exhaust fan. I run exhaust fan separate 
from the engine on hot days. There is also a initial PO setup for water cooling 
the compressor. The PO disconnected this. I want to try it again. The thruhull 
is there waiting for a pipe next summer. The cooler water of the North Channel 
is cool even on hot days. 

Don
V34
___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Something like this might be what you are looking for:

 

3” in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition protected – 
6 AMP fuse (http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or 
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
 
<http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1450901052=8-1=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge>
 =1450901052=8-1=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge 

Or : http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K or 
http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-240-Marine-Blower-4-Inch/dp/B000O8D0IC 

 

Marek

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 14:53
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.

 

Joe 

Coquina

 

___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

My 30-1 has a flexible hose of about 4 inches in diameter hooked to each 
dorade. I have a diesel, so am not as concerned about getting fumes out, so 
have put smaller vents where the dorados exit. One of the vent hoses is hooked 
through the blower. I will go over to the boat tomorrow and read the specs off 
the blower for you. I would guess that one of the dorades should point forward 
and that hose should just exit near the engine (mine does) and the one through 
the blower should face aft. It sounds like you have the original setup.

Gary #593

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com<mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

Hey all,
I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm 
almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower.  I 
removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging by the look 
of it, it may have been original.

The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it 
was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the 
two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is used to 
just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing 
hooked up to that.
I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm 
I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine 
compartment of gasoline fumes.

Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and 
the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.

Thanks!

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
From: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>" 
<svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>>, 
jda...@gmail.com<mailto:jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID: 
<4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com<mailto:4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, 
> svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com&g

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
My 38 was originally built with an A4. There are 2 4” cowl vents on the 
transom, with 4” ventilation hose routed into the engine space. There are 2 
blowers similar to the ones that Marek identified in his post mounted under the 
cockpit sole; one of these is routed to push fresh air into the engine space, 
the other to extract air. The inlet hose was terminated above the engine and 
fuel tank. The outlet hose was routed to the bottom of the engine space and 
just aft of the engine. Both blowers are wired to the same switch on the 
breaker panel, so they work at the same time to move air.

 

I now have a diesel, and a refrigeration compressor/condenser mounted on the 
forward bulkhead of the cockpit locker to starboard of the engine. In order to 
maximize airflow to the condenser (while still circulating air in the engine 
space), I have rerouted the inlet hose (cool air?) to near the bottom of the 
condenser, and the outlet hose under the side deck above the condenser. One of 
these days I may wire the blowers so they go on and off with the refrigeration 
compressor, but for the time being they are still on the same switch on the 
panel and must be manually activated.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

Hey all, 

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm 
almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower.  I 
removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging by the look 
of it, it may have been original.  

The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it 
was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the 
two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is used to 
just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing 
hooked up to that. 

I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm 
I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine 
compartment of gasoline fumes.  

Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and 
the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.

 

Thanks!

 

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  > wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
From: Robert Boyer  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com  " 
 >, jda...@gmail.com 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com  
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
>   via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List