Re: Stus-List Diesel Injectors

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:

Give Norm Gustafson a call (360) 823-6357.  He used to be in charge of big
diesels (Catapiller) locally, and he taught a diesel class when he was a
member of RCYC.  He can give you advice over the phone, and if you want him
to work on your engine, he'll do a good job.

Alan Bergen


On Tue, Jul 3, 2018 at 1:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you're looking at blue smoke it's not as likely to be the injectors.
> Injectors usually get linked to black smoke / an overly rich mixture.
>
> Blue smoke is more likely compression related or somehow the lube oil
> blows by the rings and burns (It seals-up as the metal expands upon warming
> up) But it's not necessarily caused by worn-out cylinder / piston
> assemblies.  It could be as simple as a using oil that's too thin for your
> engine and/or conditions or a valve  / valve guide leak which can be fixed
> with a valve job and/or a top end cleanup / rebuild. From what I've read,
> quite common on sailboat diesels
>
> Here's some good reading on the subject:
> https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/read-those-smoke-signals
> 
> https://www.boats.com/how-to/diesel-engine-smoke-blue-black-or-white/
> 
>
> I would have a competent local guy check it out.  If the smoke is not
> persistent he will more than likely tell you to make sure you use fresh
> fuel / put some good fuel additives to prevent gumming and bacteria growth
> / keep the oil fresh / keep on sailing and don't worry.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Francois Rivard
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Stus-List Diesel Injectors

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

If you're looking at blue smoke it's not as likely to be the injectors.
Injectors usually get linked to black smoke / an overly rich mixture.

Blue smoke is more likely compression related or somehow the lube oil blows
by the rings and burns (It seals-up as the metal expands upon warming up)
But it's not necessarily caused by worn-out cylinder / piston assemblies.
It could be as simple as a using oil that's too thin for your engine and/or
conditions or a valve  / valve guide leak which can be fixed with a valve
job and/or a top end cleanup / rebuild. From what I've read, quite common
on sailboat diesels

Here's some good reading on the subject:
https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/read-those-smoke-signals
https://www.boats.com/how-to/diesel-engine-smoke-blue-black-or-white/

I would have a competent local guy check it out.  If the smoke is not
persistent he will more than likely tell you to make sure you use fresh
fuel / put some good fuel additives to prevent gumming and bacteria growth
/ keep the oil fresh / keep on sailing and don't worry.

Good Luck,

Francois Rivard
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Dan via CnC-List]

My Yanmar in my C emits a small cloud of white smoke when I first turn
it over after sitting idle for weeks or months, but never blue or black
smoke. My engine had a partial rebuild in 2007 which may have eliminated
some of the issues of an aging diesel...

I hope that's helps in some way?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax NS


On Tue, Jul 3, 2018 at 1:29 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 4 cyl Yanmar (non turbo) has begun to smoke a lot more when first
> starting. It is a blue smoke that mostly goes away when it warms up. It
> starts very easily and runs smoothly with good power.
> I would love to hear your opinions of possible problems and cures.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Have you checked your air cleaner/muffler for oil saturation?  My engine
has had slightly elevated blowby which caused more oil to be pushed past
the separator screen in the valve cover.  The oil is drawn back into the
engine by intake suction during normal ops.  When the engine was shut down
the oil would accumulate and saturate the foam intake air cleaner.  What
oil didn't get soaked up would leak down the side of the engine.  I don't
recall how bad my startup exhaust was or wasn't but blue smoke makes me
think motor oil is acculating and being burnt off.  I now have a drop out
can/oil collection can which allows me to separate and monitor oil blow by
accumulation.  I've shared it before in my videos but if you haven't seen
it check out the link below.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

I'm also a huge fan of Opti-Lube XPD and try to add it to my tank whenever
possible.  I'm not sure it will help you problem but it certainly can't
hurt.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 12:30 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 4 cyl Yanmar (non turbo) has begun to smoke a lot more when first
> starting. It is a blue smoke that mostly goes away when it warms up. It
> starts very easily and runs smoothly with good power.
> I would love to hear your opinions of possible problems and cures.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Fred

Our 3 cyl yanmar had all three injectors rebuilt 20 months ago.  The engine 
would puff out a cloud of black smoke when starting and then run fine with no 
smoke after that.  This was the case before rebuilding the injectors and is 
still the case after the rebuild.  When I asked our local expert about it he 
called it “Old Yanmar” and said it was fine.

My understanding is that BLACK smoke is unburnt fuel.  Our engine usually 
catches on 2 cylinders before the third.  Am guessing that perhaps I may be 
losing a bit of the fuel before third cylinder while engine is off for a long 
time.  By the time all three cylinders getting fuel the one that had it first 
probably had extra fuel and therefore the black smoke.  Of course this is only 
a guess ….  Not sure what BLUE smoke with relation to diesels

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2018 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Diesel injectors

My 4 cyl Yanmar (non turbo) has begun to smoke a lot more when first starting. 
It is a blue smoke that mostly goes away when it warms up. It starts very 
easily and runs smoothly with good power.
I would love to hear your opinions of possible problems and cures.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

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Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My 4 cyl Yanmar (non turbo) has begun to smoke a lot more when first
starting. It is a blue smoke that mostly goes away when it warms up. It
starts very easily and runs smoothly with good power.
I would love to hear your opinions of possible problems and cures.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Brent,
  I have had a Yanmar YSB12 for 15 years now, and one thing I have had 
to re-learn a few times is don't be too quick to dismiss the possibility of a 
cooling water supply issue. Just because you can see water coming out the 
exhaust does not mean that there is enough. The culprit in each case on my boat 
for white smoke was a partial blockage caused a bit of whatever that was sucked 
in and lodged somewhere. The addition of a raw water strainer narrowed down the 
possibilities, broken impeller bits notwithstanding, but I have since got 
chunks stuck in various places including in the strainer housing itself where 
it could not be seen. I would recommend a strainer oversized in hose diameter 
to prevent that last one from happening. Anyway, the bottom line is make really 
really sure there is lots of water flow before you fix something else. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 


 Brent Driedger via CnC-List  wrote: 
Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks Jerry, 
An electric motor would be great for racing but a retrofit like that is far 
from within my budget these days. I'll get by with the existing setup as long 
as I can. 

Brent.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:01 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
> engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam 
> in exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick 
> as honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
>> a wee single cylinder unit. 
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a 
 coolant passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the 
 exhaust.  If the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil 
 return, then you would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the 
 coolant level carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you 
 need to find where it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, 
 then probably what you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
 
 Gary
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
> gasket were blown?
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, 
>> such as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a 
>> sweet smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level 
>> going down, with no apparent leak?
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should 
>>> be a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a 
>>> test you should do before you send it to a shop.
>>> 
>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 
>>> halves of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all 
>>> the pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came 
>>> apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>> 
>>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean 
>>> the precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with 
>>> carbon which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll 
>>> probably want to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  
>>> There's also a lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the 
>>> injector and the precombustion chamber.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>> 
 On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
  wrote:
 Greetings all.
 
 The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The 
 usual complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I 
 replaced the filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old 
 fuel and clean the tank.
 But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
 injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
 planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
 Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
 
 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam in 
exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick as 
honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
> a wee single cylinder unit. 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what 
>>> you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
 it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
 gasket were blown?
 
 Brent
 27-5
 Wild Rover. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
> down, with no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
>> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
>> you should do before you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
>> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart. 
>>  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean 
>> the precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with 
>> carbon which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll 
>> probably want to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  
>> There's also a lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the 
>> injector and the precombustion chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The 
>>> usual complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced 
>>> the filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and 
>>> clean the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
>>> planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just a 
wee single cylinder unit. 

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what you 
>> are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>>> gasket were blown?
>>> 
>>> Brent
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
 as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
 smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
 down, with no apparent leak?
 
 Gary
 S/V Kaylarah
 '90 C 37+
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
> you should do before you send it to a shop.
> 
> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  
> Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
> 
> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon 
> which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want 
> to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a 
> lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the 
> precombustion chamber.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Greetings all.
>> 
>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>> the tank.
>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
>> planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

1GM is raw water cooled.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 6:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brent, there might be a terminology problem here.

 

Fresh water cooling: It is a closed system with antifreeze in it pumping 
through the block and a heat exchanger.  Raw water (fresh or salt) pumps 
through the heat exchanger too then is mixed with the exhaust and out of the 
boat

Raw water cooling: It draws cooling water (fresh or salt) and pumps it through 
the block then it is mixed with the exhaust and out of the boat.

 

By your description I think you have a raw water system.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: April-01-17 20:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brent Driedger
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

 

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

 

Brent

27-5

Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as a 
blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with no 
apparent leak?

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect to 
the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  Pop, 
pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone pattern, 
equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before you send it to 
a shop.

 

If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of the 
injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have to 
be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood scraper 
can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you satisfied, 
reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.

 

While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and a 
copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion chamber.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Yanmar 3HM35F

Solomons, MD 

 

On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Greetings all.

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank.
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it.
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 
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Virus-free.  
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant
passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If
the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you
would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level
carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where
it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what
you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping
> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the
> gasket were blown?
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such
> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet
> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going
> down, with no apparent leak?
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down,
>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts
>> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean,
>> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should
>> do before you send it to a shop.
>>
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves
>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
>> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
>> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
>> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
>> you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>>
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
>> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
>> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
>> precombustion chamber.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings all.
>>>
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the
>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning
>>> to extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such
as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet
smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going
down, with no apparent leak?

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down,
> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts
> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean,
> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should
> do before you send it to a shop.
>
> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves
> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
> you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
> pattern.  Re-install.
>
> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
> precombustion chamber.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Greetings all.
>>
>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
>> the tank.
>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector
>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to
>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect
to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.
Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone
pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before
you send it to a shop.

If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of
the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
pattern.  Re-install.

While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
precombustion chamber.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD

On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings all.
>
> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
> the tank.
> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector
> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to
> extract and clean it or replace it.
> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Wild Rover
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Send the injectors to a diesel repair shop.  They know what they are doing.
Frank 

On Friday, March 31, 2017 9:06 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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