Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Cockpit scoopers – or rather, their houses??

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 1:25:50 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the mast 
and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see whether water is entering that way.
Using a felt marking pen, draw a line all around the bilge. If water is 
entering above the water line, it will dissolve the markings giving you a hint 
on where to look.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:56 AM David Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled up 
all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All of the 
through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just slowly 
creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts which all 
look like new?

Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and 
inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)

While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard 
fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and 
replace?

Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.

--Dave
Terrapin Flyer
New Haven, CT


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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still
filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the
mast and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast
step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see whether water is entering that
way.
Using a felt marking pen, draw a line all around the bilge. If water is
entering above the water line, it will dissolve the markings giving you a
hint on where to look.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:56 AM David Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I
> pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All
> of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level
> just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel
> bolts which all look like new?
>
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
>
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and
> replace?
>
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
>
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=W7Z1AZqhpn6CvrW6EwE76jYv3erR3SZzRD9fzK5NSQc=9nPgCQ2NGr-R-B1GTSTfHnGF24MPkvAHfwwK-xtBhyo=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had the same issue this summer and it was stuffing box on prop shaft.  It 
accumulated significantly in the bilge over a week when I was not on the boat.  
Much faster when motoring.  It was very hard to see it dripping because it 
drips underneath the stuffing box where you can’t see easily.  I eventually 
dried everything off back there and then held my hand under the stuffing box 
and could feel the drips even without the motor running.  I did it again with 
motor running and could feel more.  Tightened it about a half turn on the nuts 
and now almost dry bilge.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 10, 2019, at 12:55 PM, David Morrison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled 
> up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All of the 
> through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just 
> slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts 
> which all look like new?  
> 
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and 
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
> 
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard 
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and 
> replace? 
> 
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
> 
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

Went through a similar exercise on my Hylas.  It only leaked when under
way.   Is the water salt or fresh?  Hot from the engine?
Turned out the stuffing box on the rudder post was leaking as was the sink
drain - but only when under way.  I suggest you dry the bilge and go out
with a friend and a flashlight.  It may be as simple as a loose hose clamp.

Joel

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:56 PM David Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I
> pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All
> of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level
> just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel
> bolts which all look like new?
>
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
>
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and
> replace?
>
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
>
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[David Morrison via CnC-List]

Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel bolts which all look like new?  Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and replace? Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.--DaveTerrapin FlyerNew Haven, CT

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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

A 100w flexible solar panel and a Genasun 12v 8amp boost controller puts
out 6amps for about 8 hours each day.  I have 2 of these systems installed
in parallel.  The panels are on top of my hard top dodger.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yLXU5RzRyWjZXTDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 4:29 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, Listers,
>
> I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
>
> But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.
>
>
>
> For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery
> maintenance, but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
>
> My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle,
> wet-cells, in parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp
> hours], used for starting.
>
> I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a
> west coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.
>
>
>
> Any and all feedback is much appreciated.
>
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
>
> ‘91C 30-2
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Pete,

for maintenance (topping up the batteries between sailings), you should be fine 
with a small (50 W?) panel that you can put on the bimini (if you have one). I 
have a flexible 25 W panel and it does a decent job (about 1 A of charging 
current in normal circumstances; this could be improved with beefier wiring 
(voltage drop) and possibly with better placing of the panel). I have a much 
smaller battery bank (2 x 55 Ah), so my charging needs are smaller. We don’t 
have any shore power in the Club, so all charging is either the motor or solar. 
But of course, this all depends on how much power you use, so YMWV.

The most important part of the system is the controller. Don’t take any 
shortcuts there. Gensun and Morningstar have very good options available. If 
you are looking ahead, install a controller that can handle more power. But you 
would be hard pressed to find enough space to install enough panel capacity to 
provide more than 10-15 A.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: kelly petew via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2019 16:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kelly petew
Subject: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

Hello, Listers,
I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.

For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery maintenance, 
but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle, wet-cells, in 
parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp hours], used for 
starting.
I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a west 
coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.

Any and all feedback is much appreciated.

Fair Winds,

Pete W.
Siren Song
‘91C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.


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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Ours is a completely different boat and setup, but perhaps some of this
will help in some way:

Callisto is a 35 mk2 with a solar "arch" over the aft of the cockpit built
by PO. Recently modified by me to reduce weight (remove extra i-beams) and
balance the load by rotating the panels 90 deg and positioning in the
centre, just aft of the backstay (approx 6' above cockpit)
- 1x 100w + 1x 55w solar panels are rigid aluminum framed, old, large
(above 55"x34" total) and heavy, but work well
- 4x 6V golf cart batteries in two banks, no starting battery
- fridge is a 12/120V unit circa 1993 which uses a reported 4A @ 12V,
haven't confirmed with a meter, and has been running 24x7 for about 3 weeks
with no issues, sometimes 4-5 days between engine starts, but weather has
been mainly sunny, and even cloudy days are enough to charge batteries at
this time of year with over 15 hrs of sun.
- minimal loads otherwise except charging tablet/laptop/phone, stereo and
mostly LED lights
Our panel voltage has dropped as low as 12.5V at the end of a cloudy day,
but is always back up to 12.8V+ soon after the sun is up. So far no issues
with engine starting, although I know deep cycle are not ideal for this
(rated at only 107CCA each battery; original automotive engine spec is
650CCA), I spread the load across all 4 batteries, and the engine starts on
first crank always (VW 1.6L 4cyl diesel), so most significant load is the
glow plugs for about 10 seconds at 60A. After messing with the inj. pump
once and losing fuel prime (self priming pump but can take 30 secs or
more), I did notice that the batteries don't like cranking the starter for
too long, so this is something I need to be careful with.

Dodgers aren't ideal for solar panels due to the shade from the boom and
sail, but if this is the only place you have to start with, a small
flexible panel of 50-75W should provide enough for battery maintenance if
your loads are low. If you're thinking of adding more later, going with a
panel of a common size and make might make it easier to match up later to
avoid oddball sizes/shapes.

We will be heading out for 3+ weeks next month when weather will be much
warmer, so I'll know more then how well the system keeps up and if I need
more batteries or panels. Since I have dual 65A alternators, if we move
under power at least every other day for at least a short while (enough to
motor in/out of anchorage and run the windlass), that should help keep the
batteries topped up also.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:40 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Man you got lots of available amps hours in those batteries. If you need
> more power consider carrying a little Honda 2000 watt generator and a
> gallon of gasoline
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:29 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello, Listers,
>>
>> I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
>>
>> But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.
>>
>>
>>
>> For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery
>> maintenance, but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
>>
>> My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle,
>> wet-cells, in parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp
>> hours], used for starting.
>>
>> I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a
>> west coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any and all feedback is much appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Fair Winds,
>>
>>
>>
>> Pete W.
>>
>> Siren Song
>>
>> ‘91C 30-2
>>
>> Deltaville, Va.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Man you got lots of available amps hours in those batteries. If you need
more power consider carrying a little Honda 2000 watt generator and a
gallon of gasoline

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 5:29 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, Listers,
>
> I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
>
> But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.
>
>
>
> For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery
> maintenance, but I’d beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
>
> My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle,
> wet-cells, in parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp
> hours], used for starting.
>
> I’ve studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I’ve tried to contact a
> west coast mfr., Renogy, but I can’t reach anyone there, as yet.
>
>
>
> Any and all feedback is much appreciated.
>
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
>
> ‘91C 30-2
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello, Listers,
I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.

For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery maintenance, 
but I'd beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle, wet-cells, in 
parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp hours], used for 
starting.
I've studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I've tried to contact a west 
coast mfr., Renogy, but I can't reach anyone there, as yet.

Any and all feedback is much appreciated.

Fair Winds,

Pete W.
Siren Song
'91C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.


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Re: Stus-List need advice with 1983 C 37

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Robert; I agree with the advice of the others who have already responded; get 
a good survey, and work through whatever issues are found; however, almost any 
condition can be remediated or corrected; once you are satisfied that the boat 
is structurally sound, and have an idea of the cost to repair any issues, you 
will have an awesome boat; the 37 sails like a witch; she is close winded, and 
solid. she is not overly tender, but she will dig in and accelerate in a gust 
that will surely make you smile!   There is plenty of room below and the cabin 
is well laid out in a traditional format. The original engine on the 37s was a 
27 hp Yanmar; mine still pushes the boat with ease.  Go to the Photo album 
website (noted in one of the earlier posts) and read the original brochures, 
they tell you about how C envisioned the boat; there's some puffery in there, 
but also a lot of detail.   Lastly, once you get into the boat, come back here 
with any questions and you will  have lots of help and guidance on how to 
tackle any issue; best of luck!  

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; (and the flood is finally 
receding...)
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: ROBERT MROZ via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ROBERT MROZ <robden...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sun, Mar 4, 2018 6:07 pm
Subject: Stus-List need advice with 1983 C 37



Hi everyone. I need some advice from the owners  about  1983  C 37  Draft 5' 
5".The boat looks very  good and clean ( for the age)  from provided pictures 
and description ( 5'5" draft ! I wondering if this is misprint). Well 
maintained ( broker words). What Should I look for and how the boat sails ( 
stiff , tender etc.) or I should stay away  from 34 years old balsa cored Hull 
and deck ? Thank you for  any  input and advice.
Sincerely, Robert M

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Re: Stus-List need advice with 1983 C 37

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I see there are a couple of keels listed on Sailboat Data for the C 37.
None at 5' 5" though:

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2384

Keel/cb model also available.
Draft (Board Down): 8.40'/2.56m
Draft (Board Up): 4.60'/1.40m
Displacement: 14725 lbs./ 6679 kgs.
Also available with fixed shoal draft keel: 6.00'/1.83m

On 4 March 2018 at 19:35, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> As to the draft, the C 37 Brochure lists it at 6' 7" (or 6' 8") but
> there was a Keel / Centreboard version that would draw less than that.
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b1pg04.htm
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b2pg04.htm
>
> As for the cored hull and deck, get a good surveyor, one who knows what he
> is doing around cored hulls.
>
> The vast majority of cored C hulls and decks have little to no issues.
> But a few out there are nightmares, usually due to improperly done
> penetrations for thru-hulls or deck fittings or penetrations from the
> interior, down in the bilges into the cores that were done improperly.
>
> The surveyor should at the minimum have a moisture meter, and know how to
> use it and should also go over the hull and deck with a plastic hammer to
> sound it out.  I paid a surveyor to do just that first before we spent the
> extra money of a full survey back when we were buying.  The cores were dry.
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html
>
>
> On 4 March 2018 at 19:06, ROBERT MROZ via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone. I need some advice from the owners  about  1983  C 37
>> Draft 5' 5".The boat looks very  good and clean ( for the age)  from
>> provided pictures and description ( 5'5" draft ! I wondering if this is
>> misprint). Well maintained ( broker words). What Should I look for and how
>> the boat sails ( stiff , tender etc.) or I should stay away  from 34 years
>> old balsa cored Hull and deck ? Thank you for  any  input and advice.
>> Sincerely, Robert M
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List need advice with 1983 C 37

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

As to the draft, the C 37 Brochure lists it at 6' 7" (or 6' 8") but there
was a Keel / Centreboard version that would draw less than that.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b1pg04.htm

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b2pg04.htm

As for the cored hull and deck, get a good surveyor, one who knows what he
is doing around cored hulls.

The vast majority of cored C hulls and decks have little to no issues.
But a few out there are nightmares, usually due to improperly done
penetrations for thru-hulls or deck fittings or penetrations from the
interior, down in the bilges into the cores that were done improperly.

The surveyor should at the minimum have a moisture meter, and know how to
use it and should also go over the hull and deck with a plastic hammer to
sound it out.  I paid a surveyor to do just that first before we spent the
extra money of a full survey back when we were buying.  The cores were dry.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html


On 4 March 2018 at 19:06, ROBERT MROZ via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi everyone. I need some advice from the owners  about  1983  C 37
> Draft 5' 5".The boat looks very  good and clean ( for the age)  from
> provided pictures and description ( 5'5" draft ! I wondering if this is
> misprint). Well maintained ( broker words). What Should I look for and how
> the boat sails ( stiff , tender etc.) or I should stay away  from 34 years
> old balsa cored Hull and deck ? Thank you for  any  input and advice.
> Sincerely, Robert M
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List need advice with 1983 C 37

[ROBERT MROZ via CnC-List]

Hi everyone. I need some advice from the owners  about  1983  C 37  Draft 5' 
5".The boat looks very  good and clean ( for the age)  from provided pictures 
and description ( 5'5" draft ! I wondering if this is misprint). Well 
maintained ( broker words). What Should I look for and how the boat sails ( 
stiff , tender etc.) or I should stay away  from 34 years old balsa cored Hull 
and deck ? Thank you for  any  input and advice.Sincerely, Robert M___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Need Advice

[Larry via CnC-List]

Alan Thanks

I researched on the web. When I put my second coat on yesterday, I closely 
examined it and saw the cooling grooves. When I first clanked at it, I thought 
the ends looked like sealed bearing. But I knew that they were supposed to be 
water cooled. So the last thing I wanted was to follow Steve’s advice and put 
grease in and clog the cooling method.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Larry

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:40 AM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Advice

 

The Allen screws in the cutlass bearing are set screws.  You don't grease the 
cutlass bearing.

>From the Max-Prop owner's manual:  To grease the Max-prop, remove the forward 
>most set screw from the spinner using a #3 metric Allen wrench. Screw in a 
>zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until 
>the grease starts to come out between the hub and the spinner.  Replace the 
>set screw and remove the set screw from the more aft hole.  Reinstall the zerc 
>tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until the 
>grease starts to come out between the blades and the spinner,  Remove the zerc 
>tower and reinsert the set screw into the propeller.  Do not leave the zerc 
>tower in the propeller.

With each pump of the grease gun, rotate the propeller forward to reverse to 
allow the grease to work through the propeller.  The company recommends 
Lubriplate 130AA grease. DO NOT USE TEFLON GREASE, AS IT WILL WASH OUT VERY 
QUICKLY.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

I hope this is not a stupid question

I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC. 

I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube the maxi 
prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has four allens 
screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. I was wondering does 
the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will screw right in the cutlass 
housing. A friend that has over 40 years sailing experience did not know. He 
said give it a try. I am not sure that is the best approach. So am turning to 
cnc-list. Any and all advice is welcome.

Thanks


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Need Advice

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The Allen screws in the cutlass bearing are set screws.  You don't grease
the cutlass bearing.

>From the Max-Prop owner's manual:  To grease the Max-prop, remove the
forward most set screw from the spinner using a #3 metric Allen wrench.
Screw in a zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with
grease until the grease starts to come out between the hub and the
spinner.  Replace the set screw and remove the set screw from the more aft
hole.  Reinstall the zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the
propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the
blades and the spinner,  Remove the zerc tower and reinsert the set screw
into the propeller.  Do not leave the zerc tower in the propeller.

With each pump of the grease gun, rotate the propeller forward to reverse
to allow the grease to work through the propeller.  The company recommends
Lubriplate 130AA grease.

*DO NOT USE TEFLON GREASE, AS IT WILL WASH OUT VERY QUICKLY.*
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I hope this is not a stupid question
>
> I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC.
>
> I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube the
> maxi prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has four
> allens screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. I was
> wondering does the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will screw right
> in the cutlass housing. A friend that has over 40 years sailing experience
> did not know. He said give it a try. I am not sure that is the best
> approach. So am turning to cnc-list. Any and all advice is welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> rucRRzgyv75fgVpKpflc2GHt_YJl0FQDYkXCm2P-6y8=95OSv6RJRd_
> ptDg9HZVePIkI8ClEnotVshqH-TbxGL0=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Need Advice

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Larry,

No need to lubricate the cutless bearing.   They are water lubricated.  
The allen screws are what help to hold it in place.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/15/2017 10:47 AM, Larry via CnC-List wrote:


I hope this is not a stupid question

I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC.

I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube 
the maxi prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has 
four allens screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. 
I was wondering does the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will 
screw right in the cutlass housing. A friend that has over 40 years 
sailing experience did not know. He said give it a try. I am not sure 
that is the best approach. So am turning to cnc-list. Any and all 
advice is welcome.


Thanks



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Need Advice

[Larry via CnC-List]

I hope this is not a stupid question

I am 4 years new to sailing. I own a 1986 38-ft CnC. 

I decided to paint the bottom of my boat, change the zincs and lube the maxi 
prop myself this year. I noticed that the cutlass bearing has four allens 
screws that look exactly like the screws in the maxi prop. I was wondering does 
the cutlass get greased. The zerk fitting will screw right in the cutlass 
housing. A friend that has over 40 years sailing experience did not know. He 
said give it a try. I am not sure that is the best approach. So am turning to 
cnc-list. Any and all advice is welcome.

Thanks

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!