Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have no idea.  I use the orange stuff.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 3:30 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same
> but more environmentally friendly?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> *OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
> Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
> corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
> marine and automotive coolant.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Better?  Maybe/maybe not.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/what-is-hoat-coolant-4-things-you-need-to-know/

Ethylene glycol isn't actually bad for the environment.  It readily breaks
down and degrades.  It's just toxic to aminals should they ingest it.  On
the other hand, many other coolants may not be toxic to animals but they
don't biodegrade.  Propylene glycol is one of them IIRC.  I had been the
type to try for the latest and greatest products but when I learned that
ethylene glyco is arguably less impactful to the environment I switched
back.  It's more common and cheaper too.

"Ethylene glycol does not persist in large amounts in ambient air because
breakdown is rapid (half-life in air is 8-84 hours). In environmental
exposure situations, its low vapor pressure precludes substantial
inhalation exposure at ambient temperatures, and its poor skin absorption
prevents significant absorption after dermal contact. Ethylene glycol is
miscible with water and will leach through soil to groundwater. It
biodegrades rapidly in soil (half-life, 2-12 days). The half-life ranges
from 2-12 days in surface water and 4- 24 days in ground water. Because it
is not fat soluble and biodegrades rapidly, bioconcentration and
bioaccumulation are insignificant (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease
Registry 1997"

Do your own research by Google searching or pulling the SDS on your coolant
of choice.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 16:30 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same
> but more environmentally friendly?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> *OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
> Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
> corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
> marine and automotive coolant.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same but 
more environmentally friendly?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

 On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 OAT coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive) Technology 
which describes the type of materials responsible for the corrosion protection 
offered by a coolant of this type.  It's still a marine and automotive coolant.
-- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

*OAT* coolant is pink.  OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type.  It's still a
marine and automotive coolant.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 It was mentioned earlier, but bears repeating. Like the previous poster, I 
thought the pink stuff was for winterizing, not for engine coolant. I believe 
the pink stuff uses propylene glycol which is safe for drinking water systems.
I thought the gold standard for engine coolant is still ethylene glycol.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL
  ___

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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for the help here. Here is an update and what I did this 
morning. I took off beginning of every hose and blow in it to make sure there 
is no blockage somewhere. Then topped every hose with coolant manually. Some of 
them specially the top ones off the engine block did have bubbles coming out as 
I was pouring coolant. Anyways engine has been running now for almost half an 
hour. Temp staying around 150. And little high rpm. About 2000? Please know 
that none of the gauges work on mine. That’s the next task. So for now just 
going off sense, alarm sender(new) and I bought infrared temp gun. Fingers 
crossed it stays like that without over heating and I think I would have solved 
the problem. If so, blue smoke would be my next worry. Prob something I messed 
up during this process.

1-the coolant good stuff is that you wanna look for the pink oat premium 
coolant. Different than the winter antifreeze

2- my 3gm was adjusted to be coolant cooled. All the parts are from local shops 
unfourtanetly and doesn’t have a bleed air valve anywhere. All the hoses now 
are staying way cooler than the last few days. Even the ones after the 
thermostat, are warm not HOT.


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

On Aug 26, 2020, at 4:25 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Mazen,

Have you checked the amount of antifreeze? Try adding a little.

When was the last time that the antifreeze system was flushed and cleaned, 
including the heat exchanger?

All the best,

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 25, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Doug via CnC-List]

I think you have an air lock in the system. I had a 35 III a few years ago and 
it had a stock Yanmar heat exchanger. The hose that came out of the engine just 
above the water pump and goes to the water heater had brass tee fitting that 
was fitted to the block and had a bleeder valve installed. The bleeder valve 
was the high point in the sysem. My current C has a 3 cylender Yanmar 3HM 
with the same bleeder valve set up. The shop manual talks about using this 
valve to bleed the air out of the system when the antifreeze is changed or the 
hot water heater is replaced.

 

Doug Allardyce

~~~_/) _/) ~~~

C 41

BULLET

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

What’s the pink good stuff?  Around here, pink antifreeze is used for 
winterizing potable water systems.  It is not the good stuff for engines (at 
least not mine).

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Mazen Aziz mailto:mazen.a...@olympian.org> >
Subject: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine 
before with absolutely no experience. Got the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> boat and started to 
follow the manual from  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html> oil change, 
filters, impellers etc. However, my  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html> coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> 
water ofF the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust 
and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something 
weird is that the hose from the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger to the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> pump 
until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block 
and the last hose from block to the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they 
have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine 
block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually 
with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust. 
That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

 

Enterprise

C

San Francisco 

MAZEN AZIZ
 <https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz> 
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 

 

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

 

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Matthew via CnC-List]

What’s the pink good stuff?  Around here, pink antifreeze is used for 
winterizing potable water systems.  It is not the good stuff for engines (at 
least not mine).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

 

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine 
before with absolutely no experience. Got the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> boat and started to 
follow the manual from  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html> oil change, 
filters, impellers etc. However, my  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html> coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> 
water ofF the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust 
and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something 
weird is that the hose from the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger to the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> pump 
until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block 
and the last hose from block to the  
<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> heat 
exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they 
have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine 
block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually 
with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the  <https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> exhaust. 
That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time





Enterprise

C

San Francisco 



MAZEN AZIZ
 <https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz> 
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 



 

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

 

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Mazen,

Have you checked the amount of antifreeze? Try adding a little. 

When was the last time that the antifreeze system was flushed and cleaned, 
including the heat exchanger? 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 25, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Hi josh, 

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


>> On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
> 
> Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
> the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
> thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  
> Or, you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it 
> to see if that solves the problem.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> 
>> Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 
>> 35) 2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I 
>> never touched an engine before with absolutely no experience. Got the boat 
>> and started to follow the manual from oil change, filters, impellers etc. 
>> However, my engine now heats up and the idiot temp alarm comes off. I have a 
>> yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.
>> 
>> My engine had unknown green coolant, I went ahead and flushed it and 
>> replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting the overheat, I 
>> checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no problem or leak 
>> and sea water ofF the exhaust and no leakage anywhere. So I think it has to 
>> be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that the hose from the heat 
>> exchanger to the pump until the thermostat, stays cold. But from the 
>> thermostat to the engine block and the last hose from block to the heat 
>> exchanger is really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is 
>> that an air block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that 
>> anywhere. Also after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if 
>> they have flow on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from 
>> the engine block to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them 
>> up manually with coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?
>> 
>> Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I 
>> see steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue 
>> smoke from the exhaust. That never happened before. Did I mess up big time?
>> 
>> Thank you again for your time
>> 
>> Enterprise
>> C
>> San Francisco 
>> 
>> MAZEN AZIZ
>> https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz 
>>  
>> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
>> simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
>> think." Zaha Hadid
>> 
>> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
>> your shoe." Muhammad Ali
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When I added a heat exchanger to my Atomic 4 I went nuts with it overheating at 
first. It took some doing to get all the air out of the system and all the 
hoses should be full.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 11:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=24b6f381-7820c562-24b6daf6-0cc47adc5fec-99253136cd722f36=1=8fde8b82-f7f4-4680-a5ca-e5e778138da8=https%3A%2F%2Fmazenaziz.wixsite.com%2Fmazenaziz>


“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford


"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali



On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/boat.html> and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/oil%20change.html>, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/engine.html> now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/alarm.html> 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/coolant.html>, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/water.html> ofF the 
exhaust<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html> and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> to 
the pump<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/pump.html> until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/heat%20exchanger.html> is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust<https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/exhaust.html>. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco

MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=53ae3065-0f380686-53ae1912-0cc47adc5fec-20859f27f3f7a9e2=1=8fde8b82-f7f4-4680-a5ca-e5e778138da8=https%3A%2F%2Fmazenaziz.wixsite.com%2Fmazenaziz>




"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3gm30

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just some thoughts based on our 3GM with Sender fresh water cooling

1)  It is not normal for any hose to be dry

2)  Check the fluid level in the Sendur heat exchanger.  Run engine without 
radiator cap until thermostat opens allowing full coolant flow.  Top off with 
anti freeze as needed.  This is the engine side of the system – not the water.  
Check to verify fluid is moving in exchanger. If system has been drained, there 
may be an air pocket somewhere that needs to be pushed out by fluid. Exchanger 
fluid level should be absolutely full when warm. There should be a plastic 
overflow / expansion tank connected to exchanger just under cap.  Should have 1 
– 2 inches of coolant.

3)   Are you getting water out the exhaust??  If so then water side of 
system is probably OK.  If not, common issue Is exhaust riser water passage 
gets blocked.  Fix is replace riser

 

Best of luck – the 3GM is a great engine

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading
to the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that
the thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot
water.  Or, you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily)
without it to see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the
> boat(C 35) 2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine
> Maintinance. I never touched an engine
>  before with
> absolutely no experience. Got the boat
>  and started to
> follow the manual from oil change
> , filters,
> impellers etc. However, my engine
>  now heats up and
> the idiot temp alarm
>  comes off. I have
> a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.
>
> My engine had unknown green coolant
> , I went ahead
> and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While
> troubleshooting the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new),
> pumps rotate with no problem or leak and sea water
>  ofF the exhaust
>  and no leakage
> anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is
> that the hose from the heat exchanger
>  to the
> pump  until the
> thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the
> last hose from block to the heat exchanger
>  is
> really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air
> block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also
> after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow
> on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block
> to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with
> coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?
>
> Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I
> see steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue
> smoke from the exhaust
> . That never
> happened before. Did I mess up big time?
>
> Thank you again for your time
>
> Enterprise
> C
> San Francisco
>
> *MAZEN AZIZ*
> https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
>
>
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Al,
I had a similar problem on a 3qm30 where it would overheat at anything
above 1400 rpm. (normal cruise rpm was 2400). Here are somethings to check.
How is the water flow out the exhaust, is it less than normal? Is the heat
exchanger plugged or partially plugged. If you think you may have blown a
head gasket, check the oil. Is it chocolate milk color? Is your engine
fresh water cooled? if it is a blown head gasket may blow bubbles into the
cooling system.
If I have missed I am sure someone will chime in.
Good luck
Doug


On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 7:45 PM Al Serrato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next
> steps.
>
> I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20
> minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds,
> it rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I
> started it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that
> some air had gotten in, and it started right up.
>
> It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I
> thought it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it
> was that was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then
> the high temp alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It
> normally runs at about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back
> in. The raw water strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might
> have failed, since it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump,
> it was fine. I replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45
> minutes today at the dock, under load, and it ran fine.
>
> I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past
> 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The
> engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke
> from the exhaust.
>
> I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem
> unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it
> was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it
> today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t.
>
> Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into
> the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Al Serrato
> Senza Fine
> San Francisco Bay
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Just a suggestion, if it happens again, pull the hose off of the through hull 
supplying raw water to your Yanmar.  Open the valve and you should get a face 
full of SF Bay.
If not, you may have sucked something into the raw water feed that did not hit 
the filter.  In my case I found a very surprised looking smelt.
I religiously watch the exhaust.  I have been told that some engines produce 
steam, but I don’t understand why the manufacturer would design an engine  that 
would exceed the cooling capacity.  I understand in very cold weather the warm 
water will create some steam.  With my boats, it was always a symptom of 
something in the system failing.
Cheers
Rick.
Paikea C 37+

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 19:45, Al Serrato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next 
> steps.
> 
> I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 
> minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it 
> rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started 
> it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had 
> gotten in, and it started right up. 
> 
> It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought 
> it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that 
> was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp 
> alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at 
> about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water 
> strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since 
> it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I 
> replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at 
> the dock, under load, and it ran fine.
> 
> I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 
> 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The 
> engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke 
> from the exhaust.
> 
> I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem 
> unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it 
> was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it 
> today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. 
> 
> Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into 
> the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Al Serrato
> Senza Fine
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Al Serrato via CnC-List]

I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next 
steps.

I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 
minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it 
rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started it 
and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had 
gotten in, and it started right up. 

It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought it 
sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that was 
different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp alarm 
went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at about 
130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water strainer 
was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since it’s close 
to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I replaced it with a 
new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at the dock, under load, 
and it ran fine.

I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 1800 
or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The engine was 
clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke from the 
exhaust.

I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem 
unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it was 
a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it today, 
it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. 

Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into the 
mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.

Thanks in advance.

Al Serrato
Senza Fine
San Francisco Bay


Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Steaming exhaust is more or less visible based on lighting, atmospheric
temperature and humidity, and raw water inlet temperature.  There is no
particular guide as to when you may see it.  While most engines have
thermostats which control fresh water temperature, some engines also have
thermostats which modulate the temperature of the raw water.  Typically
this applies to raw water cooled engines.  As such you may not see water
discharge until the engine is up to temperature.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Aug 16, 2017 11:36 PM, "Rick Rohwer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I sucked a sardine into the raw water intake in Powell River.  I idled
> back to P R worked from the pump backwards, and there he was with a steely
> gaze halfway up the through hull.  If he would have extracted himself first
> I would still be looking for answers!
> It does bring up a question that has been bugging me: if someone's exhaust
> is seriously steaming is it always an issue? and should I mention it to
> them?
> I know I would appreciate knowing, but some folks maybe not!  There are
> several commercial vessels leaving Anacortes that really have a cloud
> behind them!
>
> Rick Rohwer
> Paikea 37+
>
>
>
> > On Aug 15, 2017, at 17:43, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the
> intake.  When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and
> floated off,  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.
> >
> > Dennis C.
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I sucked a sardine into the raw water intake in Powell River.  I idled back to 
P R worked from the pump backwards, and there he was with a steely gaze halfway 
up the through hull.  If he would have extracted himself first I would still be 
looking for answers!
It does bring up a question that has been bugging me: if someone's exhaust is 
seriously steaming is it always an issue? and should I mention it to them? 
I know I would appreciate knowing, but some folks maybe not!  There are several 
commercial vessels leaving Anacortes that really have a cloud behind them!

Rick Rohwer 
Paikea 37+



> On Aug 15, 2017, at 17:43, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the intake.  
> When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and floated off, 
>  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the
intake.  When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and
floated off,  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.

Dennis C.
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have picked up vegatvegetation and other  stuff that plugged the raw water 
intake. Only to fall away after engine is shut down. When this happens I pull 
the raw water hose at the thru hull, and check for water flow. Dinghy pump 
works great to back flush thru hull. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/15/17  09:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com> Subject: Stus-List 
Overheating mystery 
Yesterday as we were pulling out of an overnight at Otter Bay and had an 
overheating issue.  Steam out the exhaust and that alarm thing. We drifted 
around with Lynn on watch while I checked the impeller, intake and belts.  But 
no luck.  So, we called vessel assist ( if you cruise and do not have Boat US 
tow insurance you should).
We hauled up the sails and headed for Van Isle and the tow boat found us just 
as the wind died.
I call ahead to Stew at U.K. and he recommended a Yanmar mechanic, Ben, who was 
able to get down and check thing out once we landed.  Absolutely nothing wrong 
with the cooling system.  It was all just fine.  He did find a few items that 
I'll need to address, like a seized loose mount, but the raw water system was 
clear and flushing great.
This is the second time I have had an overheating issue that is appeared 
without explanation.  Anyone else have this sort of thing happen?
Maybe Alera just wanted to sail and was letting us know that she would not 
motor until we did...oh well, on to Victoria.
Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

On Aug 15, 2017, at 6:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
  (Matthew L. Wolford)
   2. Re:  GENCO canvas near Toronto (Tim Sippel)
   3. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
  (Frederick G Street)
   4. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall (Paul Fountain)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:21:28 -0400
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
Message-ID: <B2633A6243DF4F4DA3B8EF28E25A395B@InternetPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Question for Hank:

    Where was the ?custom shop??  I have a ?42 Custom,? which is more or less a 
sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built in 
the ?custom shop.?

From: henry evans via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM
To: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
Cc: henry evans 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2.

If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at RI.

Hank Evans


On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


According to sailboat data online "
The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry




-Original Message-
From: john wright via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: john wright <johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from the 
same mold?

Thanks
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by 

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tom,

I’ve had it happen twice, with two different causes. 

The last time it happened, the cause was a need for more fluid in the 
antifreeze system. A half bottle of bottled water did the trick. 

The first time, I was told that I sucked in a jellyfish, which temporarily 
clogged the system. Once the engine was off, it either dropped out or broke 
apart enough that the next time I ran it, all was fine. 

I’m no mechanic and, like you, my solution to engine problems is usually “get 
the jib out”
 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









> On Aug 15, 2017, at 12:40 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yesterday as we were pulling out of an overnight at Otter Bay and had an 
> overheating issue.  Steam out the exhaust and that alarm thing. We drifted 
> around with Lynn on watch while I checked the impeller, intake and belts.  
> But no luck.  So, we called vessel assist ( if you cruise and do not have 
> Boat US tow insurance you should).
> 
> We hauled up the sails and headed for Van Isle and the tow boat found us just 
> as the wind died.
> 
> I call ahead to Stew at U.K. and he recommended a Yanmar mechanic, Ben, who 
> was able to get down and check thing out once we landed.  Absolutely nothing 
> wrong with the cooling system.  It was all just fine.  He did find a few 
> items that I'll need to address, like a seized loose mount, but the raw water 
> system was clear and flushing great.
> 
> This is the second time I have had an overheating issue that is appeared 
> without explanation.  Anyone else have this sort of thing happen?
> 
> Maybe Alera just wanted to sail and was letting us know that she would not 
> motor until we did...oh well, on to Victoria.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Aug 15, 2017, at 6:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>>  (Matthew L. Wolford)
>>   2. Re:  GENCO canvas near Toronto (Tim Sippel)
>>   3. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>>  (Frederick G Street)
>>   4. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall (Paul Fountain)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:21:28 -0400
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" >
>> To: >
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Question for Hank:
>> 
>>Where was the ?custom shop??  I have a ?42 Custom,? which is more or less 
>> a sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built 
>> in the ?custom shop.?
>> 
>> From: henry evans via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM
>> To: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>> Cc: henry evans 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>> 
>> Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
>> basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2.
>> 
>> If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at 
>> RI.
>> 
>> Hank Evans
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> According to sailboat data online "
>> The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
>> shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
>> Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: john wright via CnC-List > >
>> To: cnc-list >
>> Cc: john wright > >
>> Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Is the coolant circulating? Is the thermostat opening? Did you check and make 
sure there is raw water flow at the mixing elbow? Did you blow through the raw 
water intake to make sure there is nothing over the through hull?

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 15, 2017, at 12:40, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yesterday as we were pulling out of an overnight at Otter Bay and had an 
> overheating issue.  Steam out the exhaust and that alarm thing. We drifted 
> around with Lynn on watch while I checked the impeller, intake and belts.  
> But no luck.  So, we called vessel assist ( if you cruise and do not have 
> Boat US tow insurance you should).
> 
> We hauled up the sails and headed for Van Isle and the tow boat found us just 
> as the wind died.
> 
> I call ahead to Stew at U.K. and he recommended a Yanmar mechanic, Ben, who 
> was able to get down and check thing out once we landed.  Absolutely nothing 
> wrong with the cooling system.  It was all just fine.  He did find a few 
> items that I'll need to address, like a seized loose mount, but the raw water 
> system was clear and flushing great.
> 
> This is the second time I have had an overheating issue that is appeared 
> without explanation.  Anyone else have this sort of thing happen?
> 
> Maybe Alera just wanted to sail and was letting us know that she would not 
> motor until we did...oh well, on to Victoria.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
>> On Aug 15, 2017, at 6:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>>  (Matthew L. Wolford)
>>   2. Re:  GENCO canvas near Toronto (Tim Sippel)
>>   3. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>>  (Frederick G Street)
>>   4. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall (Paul Fountain)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:21:28 -0400
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Question for Hank:
>> 
>>Where was the ?custom shop??  I have a ?42 Custom,? which is more or less 
>> a sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built 
>> in the ?custom shop.?
>> 
>> From: henry evans via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM
>> To: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>> Cc: henry evans 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>> 
>> Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
>> basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2.
>> 
>> If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at 
>> RI.
>> 
>> Hank Evans
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> According to sailboat data online "
>> The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
>> shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
>> Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: john wright via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: john wright 
>> Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>> 
>> Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from 
>> the same mold?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Yesterday as we were pulling out of an overnight at Otter Bay and had an 
overheating issue.  Steam out the exhaust and that alarm thing. We drifted 
around with Lynn on watch while I checked the impeller, intake and belts.  But 
no luck.  So, we called vessel assist ( if you cruise and do not have Boat US 
tow insurance you should).

We hauled up the sails and headed for Van Isle and the tow boat found us just 
as the wind died.

I call ahead to Stew at U.K. and he recommended a Yanmar mechanic, Ben, who was 
able to get down and check thing out once we landed.  Absolutely nothing wrong 
with the cooling system.  It was all just fine.  He did find a few items that 
I'll need to address, like a seized loose mount, but the raw water system was 
clear and flushing great.

This is the second time I have had an overheating issue that is appeared 
without explanation.  Anyone else have this sort of thing happen?

Maybe Alera just wanted to sail and was letting us know that she would not 
motor until we did...oh well, on to Victoria.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Aug 15, 2017, at 6:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>  (Matthew L. Wolford)
>   2. Re:  GENCO canvas near Toronto (Tim Sippel)
>   3. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
>  (Frederick G Street)
>   4. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall (Paul Fountain)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:21:28 -0400
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Question for Hank:
> 
>Where was the ?custom shop??  I have a ?42 Custom,? which is more or less 
> a sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built 
> in the ?custom shop.?
> 
> From: henry evans via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM
> To: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> Cc: henry evans 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
> 
> Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
> basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2.
> 
> If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at RI.
> 
> Hank Evans
> 
> 
> On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> According to sailboat data online "
> The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
> shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
> Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: john wright via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: john wright 
> Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
> 
> Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from the 
> same mold?
> 
> Thanks
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 12:35:04 +
> From: Tim 

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

90% of the time, overheating on a yanmar is due to restriction in the
exhaust where the water get injected after the manifold.
Usually it connects to a rubber bellows/hose that can be easily taken out.
Then poke into the exhaust with a large screwdriver and see if you see
flakes of carbon
Ahmet
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 10:57 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If it was really fouled then he probably would have noticed that it wasn't
> achieving the same thrust to RPM or speed to rpm ratio.  This usually is
> also accompanied by black smoke indicating too much engine load.
>
> I have not heard any reports regarding the condition of the impeller.  I
> have also not heard anything about the intake side of the heat exchanger.
> I'd definitely be checking both of those.  Also the belt on the impeller
> can be difficult to get tight enough to prevent slipping.
>
> You might consider using a garden hose to lightly pressurize the raw water
> system.  You could even do it by shoving the hose up the through-hull from
> outside.  (you'll need the dive gear again)  Then with the boat securely
> tied, load up the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On May 30, 2016 10:25 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher
> than that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe
> around the exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should
> not overheat with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really
> fouled?
>
>
> > On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove
> the boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the
> water intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way
> there.
> >
> > We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.
> >
> > Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure.
> >
> > Tom Buscaglia
> > S/V Alera
> > 1990 C 37+/40
> > Vashon WA
> > P 206.463.9200
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If it was really fouled then he probably would have noticed that it wasn't
achieving the same thrust to RPM or speed to rpm ratio.  This usually is
also accompanied by black smoke indicating too much engine load.

I have not heard any reports regarding the condition of the impeller.  I
have also not heard anything about the intake side of the heat exchanger.
I'd definitely be checking both of those.  Also the belt on the impeller
can be difficult to get tight enough to prevent slipping.

You might consider using a garden hose to lightly pressurize the raw water
system.  You could even do it by shoving the hose up the through-hull from
outside.  (you'll need the dive gear again)  Then with the boat securely
tied, load up the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 30, 2016 10:25 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
wrote:

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher
than that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe
around the exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should
not overheat with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really
fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove
the boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel
followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the
water intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way
there.
>
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.
>
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher than 
that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe around the 
exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should not overheat 
with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
> boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel 
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water 
> intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.
> 
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  
> 
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel followed 
by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water intake to 
the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.

We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  

Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

If I remember my chem correctly, 50-50 forms a constant freezing/ boiling 
azeotrope; any mix with less or more freezes at a higher temp (boils at a lower 
one) and by extension has a less effective heat transfer.RonWild CheriC 
30-1STL


  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
 Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 6:13 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR
   
I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t.  thanks MarekPerkins M20 
From: rshibe via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: rshibe Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR If 
your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more than 
50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad
 
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greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I know that the mix should be 50/50, but what happens if it is more antifreeze 
and less water? I don,t remember reading anything about any ill effects, but 
let us know if you know of something that I don’t. 

thanks

Marek
Perkins M20

From: rshibe via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 2:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: rshibe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[svpegasus38]

Tom, lots of good suggestions so far. I have one other. When was the last 
time your heat exchanger tubes were rodded out? If you are unfamiliar with 
this, these are the tubes you see inside when the cap is removed. There should 
be a cap on at least 1 end to access the raw water side of the exchanger. If 
even some are plugged it will cause overheating. I had about 40% of mine 
plugged coming back from Port Townsend. It was an 85* day and no wind (of 
coarse) could only motor at 1400 or the alarm would go off. I cleaned mine 
using diluted miuratic acid to soften the build up. Then i rinsed it good, 
followed bu cleaning the tube with some twisted safety wire in my drill. And a 
final wash with the miuratic acid, and another good rinse. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Sun, May 
29, 2016 09:04To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Tom Buscaglia;Subject:Stus-List 
Overheating YANMAR
We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a clubevent in Olympia WA 
and are hiving a problem with overheating with our3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the 
deal...

We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition ofthe bottom 
and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We havehad some intermittent 
issues with overheating, but it was usually mepushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPMrange.  Backing off always relieved the problem.  
And we haveno gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not 
beaccurate.

As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I wasbelow 
messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running atabout 2200 
RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above thatthe alarm sounded and we 
had to back down. We continued on at 4.5KTS.

I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there. Water seems to be 
exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haulout and bottom job next 
month, and did not have a diver clean the bottomand prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was thatthe barnacles on the prop and dirty bottom, 
along with the 15-20 KT headwind were taxing the engine and causing the 
overheating.  But the"experts" in my club feel otherwise.

I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be theproblem.  I was able 
to get the water hose off and poke around inthere with a wire, but decided that 
pulling the exhaust hose was notsomething to try 30 miles from home as if I 
screwed it up and damages theexhaust hose I could be stuck here for  a while.  

I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and 
amwondering if that may actually be the problem.   I have asked tohave it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's notelling what that 
entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goesinto the yard for the pain 
job I think replacing the gooseneck with thestainless aftermarket one may be in 
order. 

Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottomand barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
overheating problem?

2.  Would a carboned upgooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
experiencing?

3.  Where can I get oneof those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B
.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I rep[laced my water heater, the first time I ran the engine, it
overheated until I added water/antifreeze to the heart exchanger.  Make
sure your heat exchanger is topped off.  Also, there is a valve that
adjusts the amount of hot water that's diverted to the hot water heater.
If too much is diverted, it can cause the engine to overheat.  A clogged
heat exchanger can also cause the overheating problem.

I replaced my mixing elbow, last year, when I found a pin hole in it.  When
I removed the elbow, it practically fell apart (rusted).  Heating the elbow
and the piece that attaches to the manifold with a torch, and trying to
separate the two pieces with a six foot wrench couldn't budge them.  I
finally replaced both pieces.  At the same time I replaced the exhaust
hoses.  The cast iron elbow lasted thirty years.  No need for you to use
stainless.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia
WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's
the deal...

We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the
bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some
intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too
hard in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off
always relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on
the alarm which may or may not be accurate.

As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was
below messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at
about 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the
alarm sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.

I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to
be exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job
next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have
done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and
dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and
causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.

I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was
able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but
decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles
from home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be
stuck here for  a while.

I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am
wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what
that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for
the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket
one may be in order.

Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an
overheating problem?

2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am
experiencing?

3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[rshibe via CnC-List]

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 12:59, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom
> 
> Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
> hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, 
> but in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on 
> the engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
> I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of 
> crud both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the 
> cooling system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may 
> have stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
> Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
> overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I 
> have pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was 
> wrenching on it.
> I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this 
> application. Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless 
> steel.  Any opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this 
> area? Titanium would be awesome!
> It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is 
> in our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a 
> south sound swing in June as well!
> Fair seas,
> 
> Rick
> 
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
>> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
>> the deal...
>> 
>> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
>> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
>> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
>> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
>> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
>> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
>> 
>> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
>> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
>> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
>> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
>> 
>> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
>> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job 
>> next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have 
>> done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and 
>> dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
>> causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
>> 
>> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
>> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
>> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
>> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck 
>> here for  a while.  
>> 
>> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
>> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
>> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
>> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
>> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
>> one may be in order. 
>> 
>> Here are my questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
>> overheating problem?
>> 
>> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
>> experiencing?
>> 
>> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
>> 
>> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
>> 
>> thx
>> 
>> Tom B
>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the 

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, but 
in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on the 
engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of crud 
both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the cooling 
system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may have 
stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I have 
pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was wrenching on 
it.
I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this application. 
Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless steel.  Any 
opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this area? Titanium 
would be awesome!
It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is in 
our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a south 
sound swing in June as well!
Fair seas,

Rick

Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA 
> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

You didn’t say anything about reduced water flow.  That would be the first 
indicator for over heating, and I’d check your impeller first and then ALL the 
hoses for scale.  I’ve seen a lot of stuff stuck to the walls of the hose 
between the strainer and the water pump.  The entrance to the water pump is 
surprisingly small, and a scrap of scale could easily reduce the flow.  Work 
through all the hoses, and see if your flow doesn’t increase.  Yes the little 
one to the exhaust elbow gets clogged easy.

Everyone wants to go nuclear, worst it can be before doing the easy stuff.  Or 
maybe you already did all that. . .

2 cents, Lee 



On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We are on our first extended cruise of the year 
for a club event in Olympia WA and are hiving a 
problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the deal...


We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending 
on the condition of the bottom and the prop, that 
gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
intermittent issues with overheating, but it was 
usually me pushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off 
always relieved the problem.  And we have no 
gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not be accurate.


As we were heading out this time the Admiral was 
at the helm and I was below messing with 
something and the alarm went off as we were 
running at about 2200 RPM.  We were able to run 
at under 2000, but above that the alarm sounded 
and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.


I checked the strainer and through hull.  All 
good there.  Water seems to be exiting the 
exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and 
bottom job next month, and did not have a diver 
clean the bottom and prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles 
on the prop and dirty bottom, along with the 
15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.


I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that 
might be the problem.  I was able to get the 
water hose off and poke around in there with a 
wire, but decided that pulling the exhaust hose 
was not something to try 30 miles from home as if 
I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I 
could be stuck here for  a while.


I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have 
with exhaust back up and am wondering if that may 
actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but 
there's no telling what that entailed or even if 
it was doneso, when she goes into the yard 
for the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck 
with the stainless aftermarket one may be in order.


Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle 
encrusted prop- result in an overheating problem?


2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a 
problem like the one I am experiencing?


3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

It must be something to do with that area. We sucked a fish into the engine
water intake while anchored in Smuggler Cove, running the engine to charge
batteries. I'll keep the crushed taco chip idea in mind.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 May 2015 at 22:42, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Hi Russ,
 I don’t know if sardines eat corn chips, but I love a good ceremony!
 After this incident, I was very suspicious of the moon jellies when we were
 anchored in Prideaux Haven.  They looked very suicidal! Do they go for
 corn chips as well?  Thanks for confirming this crazy behavior.  It was
 worth a good laugh!
 We invested in a first class aft shore tie line for this summer!  No more
 water ski ropes tied in series!  Not very seamanlike, but worked like a
 charm.
 Hope to see you this summer if you are around!  Still not sure if we can
 make the CC Rendezvous!

 Rick
 Paikea CC37+


 On May 11, 2015, at 9:26 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


  At 09:37 AM 06/05/2015, you wrote:

 On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started
 steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that
 change! I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt
 looked fine, so then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the
 impellor even though it looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would
 to be make sure I am getting supply so I started working toward the through
 hull.  Nothing but a trickle through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how
 you anticipate the worst case.   I removed the clamps on the through hull
 with the valve shut and pulled off the hose, and incredibly, could see a
 shiny head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken a head first plunge into our
 intake!  I opened the valve and a 3†fish shot into the bilge.  The trip
 had not gone well for him, but it sure had improved on my end!
 Cheers Rick Paikea   Poulsbo, WA



 What a coincidence.

 We had the same problem on *Sweet *many years ago in that area. Lund was
 the first instance and overheating occurs before getting past the
 breakwater. It became routine for us on that cruise to crush some taco
 chips over the port side, engine intake to starboard, and watch the little
 fish gather. Then start and get the heck out of the marina before any tried
 to make it into the water strainer.

 Good times.

 Cheers, Russ
  *Sweet*, 35 mk-1



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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

At 09:37 AM 06/05/2015, you wrote:
On start up last summer departing Powell River 
our CC37+ Paikea started steaming as we motored 
toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that 
change! I powered back to near idle and limped 
back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so then 
disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the 
impellor even though it looked sound.  I figured 
the next easy step would to be make sure I am 
getting supply so I started working toward the 
through hull.  Nothing but a trickle through any 
of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate 
the worst case.   I removed the clamps on the 
through hull with the valve shut and pulled off 
the hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head 
and two eyes.  A sardine had taken a head first 
plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and 
a 3” fish shot into the bilge.  The trip had 
not gone well for him, but it sure had improved on my end!

Cheers Rick Paikea   Poulsbo, WA



What a coincidence.

We had the same problem on Sweet many years ago 
in that area. Lund was the first instance and 
overheating occurs before getting past the 
breakwater. It became routine for us on that 
cruise to crush some taco chips over the port 
side, engine intake to starboard, and watch the 
little fish gather. Then start and get the heck 
out of the marina before any tried to make it into the water strainer.


Good times.

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet, 35 mk-1



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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Russ, 
I don’t know if sardines eat corn chips, but I love a good ceremony!  After 
this incident, I was very suspicious of the moon jellies when we were anchored 
in Prideaux Haven.  They looked very suicidal! Do they go for corn chips as 
well?  Thanks for confirming this crazy behavior.  It was worth a good laugh!   
We invested in a first class aft shore tie line for this summer!  No more water 
ski ropes tied in series!  Not very seamanlike, but worked like a charm.  
Hope to see you this summer if you are around!  Still not sure if we can make 
the CC Rendezvous!  

Rick
Paikea CC37+


On May 11, 2015, at 9:26 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:
 
 At 09:37 AM 06/05/2015, you wrote:
 On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started 
 steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that 
 change! I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt 
 looked fine, so then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the 
 impellor even though it looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would to 
 be make sure I am getting supply so I started working toward the through 
 hull.  Nothing but a trickle through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how you 
 anticipate the worst case.   I removed the clamps on the through hull with 
 the valve shut and pulled off the hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny 
 head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken a head first plunge into our intake! 
  I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot into the bilge.  The trip had not 
 gone well for him, but it sure had improved on my end!   
 Cheers Rick Paikea   Poulsbo, WA
 
 
 What a coincidence.
 
 We had the same problem on Sweet many years ago in that area. Lund was the 
 first instance and overheating occurs before getting past the breakwater. It 
 became routine for us on that cruise to crush some taco chips over the port 
 side, engine intake to starboard, and watch the little fish gather. Then 
 start and get the heck out of the marina before any tried to make it into the 
 water strainer. 
 
 Good times.
 
 Cheers, Russ
  Sweet, 35 mk-1
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

It is, but it's still lying in wait.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 6 May 2015 at 19:20, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Gotcha...I think we were all afraid that a mysterious part of the engine
 was lying in wait to fail.
 On May 6, 2015 5:48 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Crossover elbow...Mixing elbow...exhaust elbowGizmo that mixes the
 exhaust with the hot water from the heat exchanger. These things get packed
 with carbon every so often and must be changed or at least cleaned out.  It
 is better to just change the thing.

  Gary K
  Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  What's a cross over elbow?  I was wondering the same thing...
  On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
 
   OK, what's a crossover elbow?
  
On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   
Tom
   I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
   elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with
 all new
   bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30)
 I hear
   it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
   
 Gary
 Kolc
 Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden
 dowels
   bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe
 cleaners
   would be better, but can't find them anymore.
   
   
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
   
- Original Message -
   
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
   
   
   
If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open
 the
   end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
   coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long
 drill
   bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
Doug Mountjoy
   
svPegasus
   
LF38
   
just west of Ballard, WA.
   
   
   
   
-- Original message--
   
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
   
Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
   
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
   
Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
   weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a
 short
   trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700
 original
   hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the
 tach.
   The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower
 ROM
   (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I
 cleaned
   out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
   alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
   around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
   
Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose
 so
   Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a
 pressurewash,
   prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
   
Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I
 shouldcheck?
   
Tom B
   
   
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
   
   
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Crossover elbow...Mixing elbow...exhaust elbowGizmo that mixes the exhaust 
with the hot water from the heat exchanger. These things get packed with carbon 
every so often and must be changed or at least cleaned out.  It is better to 
just change the thing.

 Gary K
 Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 What's a cross over elbow?  I was wondering the same thing...
 On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  OK, what's a crossover elbow?
 
   On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
   Tom
  I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
  elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new
  bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear
  it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
  
Gary Kolc
    Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels
  bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners
  would be better, but can't find them anymore.
  
  
   Chuck
   Resolute
   1990 CC 34R
   Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
  
   - Original Message -
  
   From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
   Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
  
  
  
   If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the
  end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
  coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill
  bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   Doug Mountjoy
  
   svPegasus
  
   LF38
  
   just west of Ballard, WA.
  
  
  
  
   -- Original message--
  
   From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
  
   Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
  
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
  
   Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
  weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short
  trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original
  hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.
  The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM
  (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned
  out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
  alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
  around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
  
   Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so
  Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash,
  prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
  
   Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?
  
   Tom B
  
  
   Tom Buscaglia
   SV Alera
   1990 CC 37+/40
   Vashon Island WA
   (206) 463-9200
   www.sv-alera.com
  
  
   ___
  
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started 
steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that change! 
I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so 
then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the impellor even though it 
looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would to be make sure I am getting 
supply so I started working toward the through hull.  Nothing but a trickle 
through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate the worst case.   I 
removed the clamps on the through hull with the valve shut and pulled off the 
hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken 
a head first plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot 
into the bilge.  The trip had not gone well for him, but it sure had improved 
on my end!   

Cheers
Rick 
 “Paikea”
Poulsbo, WA
 On May 5, 2015, at 3:28 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 OK, what's a crossover elbow? 
 
 On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Tom
   I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, 
 changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts 
 and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is 
 a common thing. It was easy to do.
 
 Gary Kolc
  Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels 
 bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners 
 would be better, but can't find them anymore. 
 
 
 Chuck 
 Resolute 
 1990 CC 34R 
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
 
 - Original Message -
 
 From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only 
 
 
 
 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s 
 and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. 
 Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and 
 doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Doug Mountjoy 
 
 svPegasus 
 
 LF38 
 
 just west of Ballard, WA. 
 
 
 
 
 -- Original message-- 
 
 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 
 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 
 
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend 
 to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so 
 we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours 
 and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The 
 hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 
 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the 
 rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent 
 off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and 
 it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. 
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
 Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, 
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. 
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? 
 
 Tom B 
 
 
 Tom Buscaglia 
 SV Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40 
 Vashon Island WA 
 (206) 463-9200 
 www.sv-alera.com 
 
 
 ___ 
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at: 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot into the bilge. 

I once had a similar experience but it was a golf tee that shot out of the 
intake hose.  E'ffing golfers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

On start up last summer departing Powell River our CC37+ Paikea started 
steaming as we motored toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that change! 
I powered back to near idle and limped back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so 
then disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the impellor even though it 
looked sound.  I figured the next easy step would to be make sure I am getting 
supply so I started working toward the through hull.  Nothing but a trickle 
through any of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate the worst case.   I 
removed the clamps on the through hull with the valve shut and pulled off the 
hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head and two eyes.  A sardine had taken 
a head first plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and a 3” fish shot 
into the bilge.  The trip had not gone well for him, but it sure had improved 
on my end!   

Cheers
Rick 
 “Paikea”
Poulsbo, WA

___

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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gotcha...I think we were all afraid that a mysterious part of the engine
was lying in wait to fail.
On May 6, 2015 5:48 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Crossover elbow...Mixing elbow...exhaust elbowGizmo that mixes the
 exhaust with the hot water from the heat exchanger. These things get packed
 with carbon every so often and must be changed or at least cleaned out.  It
 is better to just change the thing.

  Gary K
  Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  What's a cross over elbow?  I was wondering the same thing...
  On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
 
   OK, what's a crossover elbow?
  
On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   
Tom
   I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
   elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with
 all new
   bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I
 hear
   it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
   
 Gary
 Kolc
 Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden
 dowels
   bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe
 cleaners
   would be better, but can't find them anymore.
   
   
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
   
- Original Message -
   
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
   
   
   
If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open
 the
   end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
   coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long
 drill
   bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
Doug Mountjoy
   
svPegasus
   
LF38
   
just west of Ballard, WA.
   
   
   
   
-- Original message--
   
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
   
Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
   
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
   
Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
   weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a
 short
   trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700
 original
   hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the
 tach.
   The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower
 ROM
   (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I
 cleaned
   out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
   alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
   around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
   
Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose
 so
   Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a
 pressurewash,
   prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
   
Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I
 shouldcheck?
   
Tom B
   
   
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
   
   
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump 
supplies enough cooling water up to a point.  I would check the impeller next.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was fluky 
 and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with 
 around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 
 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then 
 ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our 
 destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  
 On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was 
 throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on 
 the way out.
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I 
 tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, 
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?
 
 Tom B
 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com
 
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Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Also check the mixing elbow-crap will block flow out of back side of heat
exchanger...

Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3



Message: 14
Date: Tue, 05 May 2015 07:49:11 -0400
From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com
To: Tom Buscaglia t...@sv-alera.com,  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Message-ID: 691a0ca5-29ae-4030-97d7-0bbe95a58...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump
supplies enough cooling water up to a point.  I would check the impeller
next.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was
fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35
with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising
RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down
and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to
our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped
up.  On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do
was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke
that on the way out.
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I
tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash,
prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?
 
 Tom B
 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I have had similar experiences a few times now where the problem turned out to 
be a partial obstruction to the raw water flow ahead of the strainer, including 
on one occasion a tiny piece of twig that got stuck in the elbow in the top of 
the strainer housing itself. A quick and dirty fix that has worked for me when 
dock side is to disconnect the hose at the strainer and blow it out using a 
water hose from the dock. Obviously that did not work when the blockage was in 
the strainer housing itself, and it took me quite a while to find that little 
bugger. I am not very good at judging the rate of water flow by observing the 
splashy output of the exhaust, which can make a partial raw water blockage hard 
to diagnose. 

My 2 cents. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
  To: Tom Buscaglia ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robert Boyer 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 07:49
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only


  Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump 
supplies enough cooling water up to a point.  I would check the impeller next.

  Bob Boyer
  S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
  1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


  There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

  On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was 
fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 
with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM 
of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and 
then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our 
destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On 
the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was 
throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on 
the way out.

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I 
tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop 
grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What's a cross over elbow?  I was wondering the same thing...
On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 OK, what's a crossover elbow?

  On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Tom
 I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover
 elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new
 bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear
 it is a common thing. It was easy to do.
 
   Gary Kolc
   Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels
 bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners
 would be better, but can't find them anymore.
 
 
  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
  - Original Message -
 
  From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
 
 
 
  If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the
 end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
 coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill
 bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Doug Mountjoy
 
  svPegasus
 
  LF38
 
  just west of Ballard, WA.
 
 
 
 
  -- Original message--
 
  From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
 
  Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19
 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
 
  Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last
 weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short
 trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original
 hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.
 The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM
 (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned
 out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the
 alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to
 around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.
 
  Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so
 Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash,
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.
 
  Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?
 
  Tom B
 
 
  Tom Buscaglia
  SV Alera
  1990 CC 37+/40
  Vashon Island WA
  (206) 463-9200
  www.sv-alera.com
 
 
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 bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[robert via CnC-List]

Word of caution.only open the ends of your heat exchanger if you 
have 'new seals' to replace the old ones that might not survive the 
operation.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-05-05 1:51 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List wrote:


If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the 
end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the 
coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long 
drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.




Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

*From: *Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

*Date: *Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19

*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

*Subject:*Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas 
fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 
3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual 
cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let 
her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore 
alarms.  When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater 
trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On the way back the alarmwent off 
again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 
and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.


Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
Itightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a 
pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the 
intakethen.


Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 tel:%28206%29%20463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
http://www.sv-alera.com/



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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I think he means the injection elbow where the water enters the exhaust
stream.  The high heat in this area can cause clogs of salt and soot.  They
are easy to remove, clean, and replace.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

Midnight Mistress

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 7:10 PM
To: CC List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

 

What's a cross over elbow?  I was wondering the same thing...

On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

OK, what's a crossover elbow?

 On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Tom
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow,
changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts
and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is
a common thing. It was easy to do.

  Gary Kolc
  Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels
bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners
would be better, but can't find them anymore.


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 - Original Message -

 From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only



 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the
end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the
coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill
bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.







 Doug Mountjoy

 svPegasus

 LF38

 just west of Ballard, WA.




 -- Original message--

 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;

 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend
to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so
we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and
was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot
alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or
so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the
rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off
again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it
was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.

 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so
Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash,
prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.

 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?

 Tom B


 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎...so was Isam:-)From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 5:09 PMTo: CC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Josh MuckleySubject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only"What's a cross over elbow?" I was wondering the same thing...
On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, "Richard Bush via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:OK, what's a crossover elbow?

 On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Tom
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do.

   Gary Kolc
  Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore.


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 - Original Message -

 From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only



 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.







 Doug Mountjoy

 svPegasus

 LF38

 just west of Ballard, WA.




 -- Original message--

 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;

 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.

 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.

 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?

 Tom B


 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Yup. The exhaust elbow would be my first guess, especially if you have not 
cleaned it in 700 engine hours. Impeller would be my second guess.

 

You are looking at the right symptom, insufficient water flow. But you are 
looking at the intake side of the water flow. With Yanmars the problem is more 
commonly on the exit side.

 

My friend, who is a diesel engine mechanic that helped me diagnose a similar 
problem on a 2GMF13 about a month ago, says he runs a small rod through the 
small elbow where water gets injected into the exhaust elbow every 50 hours or 
at least once a year on the Yanmar in his J/30. According to him dislodging the 
carbon buildup is routine maintenance, and if not done leads to the water 
passage being plugged.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:48 PM
To: Tom Buscaglia; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

 

Exhaust elbow.   Check for clogging.  Yanmar recommends replacement every 7 or 
do years.   If clogged engine will overheat at high rpm.   Jerry JJ.  

Sent from my iPhone


On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was fluky 
and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with 
around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 
26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then 
ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our 
destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On 
the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was 
throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on 
the way out.

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I 
tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop 
grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ 


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

OK, what's a crossover elbow? 

 On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Tom
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, 
 changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts 
 and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a 
 common thing. It was easy to do.
 
  Gary Kolc
  Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels 
 bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners 
 would be better, but can't find them anymore. 
 
 
 Chuck 
 Resolute 
 1990 CC 34R 
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
 
 - Original Message -
 
 From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only 
 
 
 
 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s 
 and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. 
 Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and 
 doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Doug Mountjoy 
 
 svPegasus 
 
 LF38 
 
 just west of Ballard, WA. 
 
 
 
 
 -- Original message-- 
 
 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 
 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 
 
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to 
 a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we 
 were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and 
 was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot 
 alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or 
 so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the 
 rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off 
 again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it 
 was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. 
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
 Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, 
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. 
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? 
 
 Tom B 
 
 
 Tom Buscaglia 
 SV Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40 
 Vashon Island WA 
 (206) 463-9200 
 www.sv-alera.com 
 
 
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Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

If all else checks-out it could be load related as well.  If your prop has 
variable pitch it may have gone to an over-pitch situation.  I've also 
heard that a very dirty hull can increase drag enough to overload the 
engine / make it run hot. 

Good luck with it. 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA ___

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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Tom
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, 
changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and 
gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI.  (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a 
common thing. It was easy to do.

  Gary Kolc
 Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought 
 from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be 
 better, but can't find them anymore. 
 
 
 Chuck 
 Resolute 
 1990 CC 34R 
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
 
 - Original Message -
 
 From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only 
 
 
 
 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s 
 and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. 
 Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and 
 doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Doug Mountjoy 
 
 svPegasus 
 
 LF38 
 
 just west of Ballard, WA. 
 
 
 
 
 -- Original message-- 
 
 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 
 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 
 
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to 
 a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we 
 were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was 
 running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm 
 went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and 
 nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap 
 as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this 
 time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much 
 less steam/smoke that on the wayout. 
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
 Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, 
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. 
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? 
 
 Tom B 
 
 
 Tom Buscaglia 
 SV Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40 
 Vashon Island WA 
 (206) 463-9200 
 www.sv-alera.com 
 
 
 ___ 
 
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 of page at: 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought 
from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be 
better, but can't find them anymore. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only 



If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and 
look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time 
they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 
0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 







Doug Mountjoy 

svPegasus 

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 




-- Original message-- 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 

Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 

Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a 
local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were 
motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was 
running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm 
went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and 
nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap 
as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this 
time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less 
steam/smoke that on the wayout. 

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop 
grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. 

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? 

Tom B 


Tom Buscaglia 
SV Alera 
1990 CC 37+/40 
Vashon Island WA 
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com 


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Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind 
was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a 
Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at 
our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went 
off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) 
and no more alarms.  When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the 
raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On the way back the 
alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back 
to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on the way out.


Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
I tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a 
pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the 
intake then.


Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Exhaust elbow.   Check for clogging.  Yanmar recommends replacement every 7 or 
do years.   If clogged engine will overheat at high rpm.   Jerry JJ.  

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was fluky 
 and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with 
 around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 
 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then 
 ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our 
 destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  
 On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was 
 throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on 
 the way out.
 
 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I 
 tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, 
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.
 
 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?
 
 Tom B
 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Impeller.

Joel

On Monday, May 4, 2015, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

  We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind was
 fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has a Yanmar
 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual
 cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went off and I let her
 cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms.
 When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was
 pretty crapped up.  On the way back the alarm went off again but this time
 all I had to do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much
 less steam/smoke that on the way out.

 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I
 tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash,
 prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then.

 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check?

 Tom B

  Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Read an article recently on impellers looking perfectly fine, but the 
fins had become detached from the hub.  The drive pin did not go all
the way through the hub to the rubber fins so it allowed the hub to slip 
inside the fins.  So impeller may look absolutely fine,

but not fully functioning...food for thought when you check the impeller.

On 04/05/2015 10:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Impeller.

Joel

On Monday, May 4, 2015, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Wind
was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a
Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine
at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm
went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800
or so) and no more alarms.  When I got to our destination, I
cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On
the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to
do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine.  Much less
steam/smoke that on the way out.

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose
so I tightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a
pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check
the intake then.

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should
check?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
http://www.sv-alera.com/



--
Joel
301 541 8551


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--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
CC 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[svpegasus38]

If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s 
and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over 
time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 
0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. 

Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-ListDate: Mon, May 4, 
2015 18:19To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Subject:Stus-List Overheating as high RPM 
onlyWe did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend.  Windwas fluky 
and it was a short trip so we were motoring.  Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with 
around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 
26-2800 on the tach.  The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then 
ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms.  When I got to our 
destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up.  On 
the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle 
back to around2200 and it was fine.  Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.

Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so 
Itightened that.  I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop 
grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.

Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?

Tom B
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Robert Abbott]

Gary:

My issue was simply the two wing nuts on the top of the raw water 
strainer weren't tightened enough to prevent the air leak I 
didn't need a new water straining system with a better gasket sealing, I 
just needed a 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each wing nut, problem solved.


Took it apart in the Fall to clean it and didn't torque it down enough.  
Won't happen again!


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S


On 2013/05/24 12:21 PM, Gary Nylander wrote:
A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had 
overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key 
Largo for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat 
exchanger, ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in 
line as well) and dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water 
flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No 
water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the dock, great 
flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at 
cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a 
mile back in again.
It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water 
strainer, as Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not 
at the same rpm out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend 
(after blowing a good sailing week) decided a new water straining 
system with better gasket sealing was in order.

All is well.
Gary

- Original Message -
*From:* Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca
*To:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM
*Subject:* Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal'
on your raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water
cooling system will suck in air and not enough water to cool your
engine.

If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might
not have put it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the
pump.  Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine
and check for flow there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a
couple minutes with no water flow.)  Try to stop the flow by
blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  If the flow and
pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can stop
the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you
cleaned.  Check for flow and pressure there.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



*From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the
bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor.
This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an
inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:

Hi
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating
diesel.  The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going
into the mixing elbow, because generally when I cleaned it,
it worked again.  For a while.
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a
proper cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all
hoses by blowing through them and the engine.
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped
like it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit --
needed a new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see
if it would work. Got a new gasket and put it on.  Started up
and no water.
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked --
slightly corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. 
Put everything back together and started it up and a bit of

water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put it
in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up
again.  No water.
So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was
as it wasn't that bad

Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Dennis C.]

Just a suggestion for all with similar strainers, try to tighten the wing nuts 
equally so the same amount of threads is showing on each screw. An unevenly 
tightened cap can leak air. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2013, at 6:57 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote:

 Gary:
 
 My issue was simply the two wing nuts on the top of the raw water strainer 
 weren't tightened enough to prevent the air leak  I didn't need a new 
 water straining system with a better gasket sealing, I just needed a 1/2 to 
 3/4 turn on each wing nut, problem solved.
 
 Took it apart in the Fall to clean it and didn't torque it down enough.  
 Won't happen again!
 
 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S
 
 
 On 2013/05/24 12:21 PM, Gary Nylander wrote:
 A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had 
 overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo 
 for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, 
 ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and 
 dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we 
 took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check 
 everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great 
 flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took 
 it back out - lasted a mile back in again.
  
 It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as 
 Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm 
 out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good 
 sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket 
 sealing was in order.
  
 All is well.
  
 Gary
 - Original Message -
 From: Robert Abbott
 To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
 
 Don:
 
 One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw 
 water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will 
 suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.
 
 If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put 
 it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!
 
 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.  
 
 
 
 On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
 Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.  
 
 Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  
 Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow 
 there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water 
 flow.)  Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  
 If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can 
 stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.
 
 If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.  
 Check for flow and pressure there.  
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
 From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
 
 Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to 
 make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. 
 This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as 
 the rubber vanes may look perfect. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:
 
 Hi
  
 I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
 culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
 generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
  
 So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper 
 cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing 
 through them and the engine.
  
 I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
 supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but 
 I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and 
 put it on.  Started up and no water.
  
 I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded 
 but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and 
 started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat 
 out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam 
 everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
  
 Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
  
 So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t 
 that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t 
 think although I will replace

Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens - but doesn't resolve

[Don Jonsson]

Hi All

 

Thanks for all of the comments regarding my problem of sometimes the boat
pumps water and sometimes not.  I'm amazed at the help provided.I think
I have taken all into consideration in some form of test to try and debug
this.

 

I have disconnected the hoses carrying the water from various point where
they enter the engine and tested to see if water is pumping and the water is
getting through.  Downstream of the pump I have put my finger on the hose
and sprayed water around the cabin, ok, into a bucket, indicating good
pressure from the pump.  In all places water is coming, but since the
problem is intermittent, what does that tell me?  I feel confident that at
least the problem is downstream of the pump.

 

I've ordered a new thermostat, although the one that is in there seems to
work fine when tested in water on the stove.  Although it didn't seem to
behave consistently after putting it back in.  But I would think if it
wasn't working water would still pump through the bypass but the engine
would overheat.

 

The engine starts immediately so I'm thinking compression should still be
good, but mechanics are on order to check things like that.  For sure it is
blowing more black smoke on start up that it did a year ago, so something is
amiss but could just be the injectors.  I'll also get them to test the heat
with a infrared thermometer.

 

After doing all this, the last few times I've started the engine all has
worked as it is supposed to.  The problem is I've still not found a
definitive cause.  So has something fixed it, or not.   And if not at what
most inconvenient time will it manifest itself again, as on the west coast
of Vancouver Island this summer?

 

I thinking perhaps something is floating in the engine that sometimes plugs
something like the thermostat, and sometimes not, depending on how it is
floating around.  The only challenge with that, is once the engine starts
and is pumping water it continues to pump water, and I've run it for
extended periods of time,  travelling distances.  So why wouldn't it plug it
intermittently when running as opposed just when it is starting?

 

So I'm thinking about the recommendation on using Barnacle Buster.  It seems
the easiest way is to take out the zincs in the engine as they recommend
(and if anyone else has a 3GMD in a CC 34 they know you can't really call
this easy) and then put the intake hose into a big bucket containing
Barnacle Buster and the outflow hose going into the mixing elbow back in the
bucket and run the engine until the stuff has come through.  Then let it sit
for day.

 

The alternative building a flushing system seems a fair bit more complicated
but apparently is the more recommended method.

 

Has anyone done this?

Does it damage the impeller?

What about all the stuff it dislodges?  It seems getting that out of the
system could cause more plugging up?  I suspect this engine has never been
flushed and it is a long ways from new.  So will everything come out in
small pieces or will there be big hose plugging flakes?

 

Any help?

 

Thanks

Don  

 

From: dre...@gmail.com [mailto:dre...@gmail.com] 
Sent: May-24-13 7:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 


Hi,

 

My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating.  I
check and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ...   I even pickled
the engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate
thinking the wear was limiting flow.   I even thought I licked the problem.
After a big trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few
weeks and when I returned, the engine was seized.  It turned out the  head
gasket was slightly blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two
weeks corroded/seized a piston.  

 

I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason
for blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine:  severe salt scale build
up!

 

The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what
was likely 33 yrs of scale build up.   

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554

 

I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that
anyone with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent
like barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar).   The
$30-$50 for barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding
my yanmar. 

 

 

-
Paul E.
1979 CC 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

Begin forwarded message:





Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
Message-ID: 023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi



I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because

Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

As others have mentioned, I'd look for an air leak in every seal from
the pump upstream to the hull fitting -including the entire pump.
If the pump gets air bound and the impeller vanes are less than
absolutely factory perfect, it will have a hard time sucking water, and
will just move the air in the pump around.


My water pump was leaking, and I thought it was the cover seal like you
do...it wasn't, it was the shaft seals between the pulley and the
impeller.  They were about $10 each or so and not terribly hard to
replace.  It's a good idea to replace the bearings if you're going in
there to fix the seals.
If you cannot get new seals in a timely manner, just put as much
thick-tacky grease in the shaft seal as you can...just to slow down the
air-water intrusion/leak.


The other suggestion about the cam in the pump is also a good one.
It's held in with a single brass screw.  Mine corroded away to nothing.
So I replaced it with a stainless cap screw.  By the way...it's metric
and it cannot be too long or it will stick into the pump and tear the
vanes. Choose wisely as the saying goes.


And another thought, before you go all acid bath on the engine...maybe
start with a mild acid like vinegar. It's cheap in large volume, and
mild enough to the steel parts while working magic on salts.  Just a
thought and if it doesn't work, you are only out about $15.
I'd get the engine running and hot on seawater, shut it down, then take
the seawater intake and put it in the vinegar bottle. For a SW cooled
engine, I'd guess that 4 gallons would do.  Then run the engine for a
very short time to suck all 4 gallons into the engine.
Now the heat from the block will help the vinegar do it's thing. Leave
it for a day maybe. The run it normally.
Bewareall those bits that were adhering are going to try to exit the
engine...if there are large scales they could block the passages. (like
a blood clot or heart attack).

-Keith M
CC 35-3  (3GM30F)


-Original Message-
From: Don Jonsson [mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 21:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Hi

 

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow,
because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
through them and the engine.

 

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket,
but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new
gasket and put it on.  Started up and no water.

 

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back
together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took
the thermostat out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water
running, no steam everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be
sure.

 

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No
water.

 

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it
wasn't that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat -
I don't think although I will replace it.  

 

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
I'm stumped. 

 

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has
anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local
mechanic had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find
part numbers for that engine?

 

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Don

 


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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[ELevert]

My raw water cooled Yanmar 2qm15 would start with a normal flow of water. 
On restarting after a sail, no water flow. This repeated regularly until 
the thermostat was changed. 

Ed

CC 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl (for sale)
CC 34 Briar Patch 
New Orleans___
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[dreuge]

Hi,

My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating.  I check 
and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ...   I even pickled the 
engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate thinking 
the wear was limiting flow.   I even thought I licked the problem.  After a big 
trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few weeks and when I 
returned, the engine was seized.  It turned out the  head gasket was slightly 
blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two weeks corroded/seized a 
piston.  

I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason for 
blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine:  severe salt scale build up!

The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what was 
likely 33 yrs of scale build up.   

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554

I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that anyone 
with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent like 
barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar).   The $30-$50 for 
barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding my yanmar. 


-
Paul E.
1979 CC 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

Begin forwarded message:

 Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700
 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
 Message-ID: 023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Hi
 
 
 
 I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
 culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
 generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
 
 
 
 So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.
 I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and
 the engine.
 
 
 
 I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
 supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I
 knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put
 it on.  Started up and no water.
 
 
 
 I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
 but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
 started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
 out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
 everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
 
 
 
 Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
 
 
 
 So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
 that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
 think although I will replace it.  
 
 
 
 The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm
 stumped. 
 
 
 
 This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
 had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
 
 
 
 Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
 had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
 for that engine?
 
 
 
 Thanks to anyone that can help.
 
 Don
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Gary Nylander]

A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating 
problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual 
bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the 
whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in 
the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a 
mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the 
dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at 
cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back 
in again.

It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob 
said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in 
the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) 
decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order.

All is well.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Abbott 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens


  Don:

  One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw 
water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck 
in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

  If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put 
it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

  Bob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.  



  On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.  

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow 
there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.)  
Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  If the flow 
and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can stop the flow 
then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.  
Check for flow and pressure there.  

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA






--
  From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens



  Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze 
insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new 
or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look 
perfect. 


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:


  Hi

  I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

  So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper 
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through 
them and the engine.

  I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.

  I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly 
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together 
and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat 
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam 
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

  Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No 
water.

  So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't 
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't think 
although I will replace it.  

  The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And 
I'm stumped. 

  This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has 
anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

  Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic 
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?

  Thanks to anyone that can help.
  Don

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Bill Coleman]

That is a really interesting tip to store away, and (Hopefully) remember!

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 

A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had
overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo
for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger,
ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and
dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we
took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check
everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great
flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took
it back out - lasted a mile back in again.

 

It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as
Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm
out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good
sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket
sealing was in order.

 

All is well.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca  

To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM

Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 

Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw
water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will
suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put
it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.  





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Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Don Jonsson]

Hi

 

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.
I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and
the engine.

 

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put
it on.  Started up and no water.

 

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

 

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.

 

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
think although I will replace it.  

 

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm
stumped. 

 

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
for that engine?

 

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Don

 

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Jim Watts]

I assume you checked your seacock and strainer for blockage? I usually
start troubleshooting at the easy stuff, like is there a fish in my water
intake?
The answer is yes, twice. The second time it happened, it was the first
thing I checked. The first time it happened, it was about the 84th.


On 23 May 2013 18:24, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Hey Don, I had similar issues with my raw water SB8 on a Mirage 26 and it
 ended up being the cooling passages in the head and block. I tore it down
 and cleaned them out. Was a long process but manageable. Not sure how
 complicated it would be on a 3 gm. Very satisfying when I was done and sat
 back, beer in hand, and a smile on. Not sure if that's your issue but it
 may be a good place to start.
 Good luck!

 Greg
 Siesta
 '87 33-2

 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
 Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 01:00:17
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens



 Hi

 I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
 culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
 generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
 cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
 through them and the engine.

 I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
 supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but
 I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and
 put it on.  Started up and no water.

 I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
 but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
 started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
 out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
 everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

 Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No
 water.

 So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
 that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
 think although I will replace it.

 The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
 I'm stumped.

 This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has
 anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
 had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
 for that engine?

 Thanks to anyone that can help.
 Don


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Knowles Rich]

Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is 
not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit 
and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:

Hi
 
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The culprit, 
so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally 
when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
 
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  I 
checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
engine.
 
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.
 
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but 
it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
 
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
 
So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that 
bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t think 
although I will replace it. 
 
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I’m 
stumped.
 
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone had 
a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
 
Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?
 
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
 
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Dennis C.]

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.  

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  Disconnect 
the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow there.  (It 
won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.)  Try to stop 
the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  If the flow and 
pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can stop the flow then 
the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.  
Check for flow and pressure there.  

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA






 From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
 


Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is 
not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old 
unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. 


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:


Hi
 
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
 
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  
I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
engine.    
 
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put 
it on.  Started up and no water.
 
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but 
it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
 
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
 
So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that 
bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t think 
although I will replace it.  
 
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I’m 
stumped. 
 
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone 
had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
 
Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?
 
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
 
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Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Robert Abbott]

Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your 
raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system 
will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.


If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have 
put it back together tight enough.  How do I know this? Daa!


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for 
flow there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no 
water flow.)  Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or 
your hand.  If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no 
flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of 
the pump.


If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you 
cleaned.  Check for flow and pressure there.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



*From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the
bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can
happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as
the rubber vanes may look perfect.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:

Hi
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel. 
The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing

elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For
a while.
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by
blowing through them and the engine.
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like
it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit -- needed a
new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would
work.  Got a new gasket and put it on.  Started up and no water.
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked -- slightly
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything
back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much
steam.  Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. 
Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect.  Ran

it for a while just to be sure.
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. 
No water.

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it
wasn't that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the
thermostat -- I don't think although I will replace it.
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.
  And I'm stumped.
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. 
Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local
mechanic had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to
find part numbers for that engine?
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Joel Aronson]

Heat exchanger?  Raw water cooled so that's a possibility

Joel Aronson


On May 23, 2013, at 10:56 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
wrote:

 Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your
raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system
will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have
put it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow
there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water
flow.)  Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.
If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can
stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.
Check for flow and pressure there.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


  --
 *From:* Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca r...@sailpower.ca
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze
insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a
new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may
look perfect.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:

  Hi

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
through them and the engine.

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but
I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and
put it on.  Started up and no water.

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded
but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t
think although I will replace it.

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
I’m stumped.

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
for that engine?

Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don

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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Josh Muckley]

Well said Terry...well said.

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 15, 2013 6:06 PM, Terry tj...@comcast.net wrote:

   Fred, the older Yanmars have a reciprocating dingle valve to control
 the exhaust temperature in the fluval chamber. As you have already noticed,
 once the engine warms up, the dingle valve opens and lets the hot engine
 exhaust pass through the fluval chamber removing any excess unburned fuel.
 The newer engines have replaced the dingle valve with a resonating bundle
 arm so they don’t smoke even when just started.

 Hope this helps...T

  *From:* Fred Hazzard fredhazz...@spiritone.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:54 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


 Rick:

 

 My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins
 of motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from
 your experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the
 hour meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in
 2007.  This engine starts very easily and runs well.

 

 Fred Hazzard

 S/V Fury

 CC 44

 Portland, Or

 

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
 Brass
 *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

 Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner
 changes, etc.  10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we
 routinely saw 16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in
 the smaller trucks.

 

 Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my
 previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k
 for a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors.

 

 

 Rick Brass

 Washington, NC

 

 

 

 *From:* CnC-List 
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 *On Behalf Of *Russ  Melody
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

 Hi Don,

 The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned
 carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from
 the 5,000  hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours
 is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not
 replacing or a rebuild.

 My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to
 Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He
 is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest
 guess is $100 - 150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

 Cheers, Russ
 *Sweet *35 mk-1

 At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

 Hi Kim

 Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
 blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
 smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up
 it
 seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are
 backed
 up here in Victoria).

 What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
 around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
 also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
 the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
 expensive.

 How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
 sharing.

 Don

 -Original Message-
 From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net kimcbr...@comcast.net]
 Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


 Don
 Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
 we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
 Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
 smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
 injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
 other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
 was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
 tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the
 meager
 amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really
 worked
 wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
 right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
 building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
 I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
 it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
 my FWC

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Gary Nylander]

Someone had a source of Yanmar exhaust risers (other than Mack Boring). My 
old black pipe version decided to rust apart yesterday. I have it patched 
for a while, but that is going to be a short term solution.


Before I build a new black pipe version, I would like to check out a 'real' 
one.


Gary Nylander
Yanmar 2QM15.
- Original Message - 
From: Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle



Don
Hard to tell as I also had the fresh water pump replaced and assorted
hoses/belts, along w/ replacing the knuckle, clean and tighten exhaust 
elbow

etc.  Looks like the parts bill includes $50/each for the new tips and
another $12/ each for the assorted bits -washers, covers etc associated w/
injectors. 1.5 hours for shop work- replace tips, clean, paint @ $85/hr.
plus he came to me, pulled them and reinstalled them- testing compression 
on
his way through. All in it was $700 labor/travel time and $400 parts. In 
my

youth that would have been 11 boat bucks but being an experienced boater I
now know it is barely more than 1 boat buck (US or CDN). And it was 
well

worth it - purrs like a new engine.
Kim Brown
Trust Me!!!
35-3

_




From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up 
it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are 
backed

up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 
with

around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially 
change

the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.

Don



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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Prime Interest]

From an earlier note :

Hi,

I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are
available at much more reasonable price.   For example, the common mixing
elbow (124070-13520 Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed out lists for $270, can
be purchased much cheaper from several vendors.   I purchased one recently
for $69.95 from MMI Seattle.

See:

http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm
   and here for more details
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboa
rds

Paul E.
1979 CC 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 

Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

Someone had a source of Yanmar exhaust risers (other than Mack Boring). My
old black pipe version decided to rust apart yesterday. I have it patched
for a while, but that is going to be a short term solution.

Before I build a new black pipe version, I would like to check out a 'real' 
one.

Gary Nylander
Yanmar 2QM15.
- Original Message -
From: Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


 Don
 Hard to tell as I also had the fresh water pump replaced and assorted
 hoses/belts, along w/ replacing the knuckle, clean and tighten exhaust 
 elbow
 etc.  Looks like the parts bill includes $50/each for the new tips and
 another $12/ each for the assorted bits -washers, covers etc associated w/
 injectors. 1.5 hours for shop work- replace tips, clean, paint @ $85/hr.
 plus he came to me, pulled them and reinstalled them- testing compression 
 on
 his way through. All in it was $700 labor/travel time and $400 parts. In 
 my
 youth that would have been 11 boat bucks but being an experienced boater I
 now know it is barely more than 1 boat buck (US or CDN). And it was 
 well
 worth it - purrs like a new engine.
 Kim Brown
 Trust Me!!!
 35-3

 _




 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
 Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Hi Kim

 Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
 blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
 smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up 
 it
 seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are 
 backed
 up here in Victoria).

 What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 
 with
 around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
 also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially 
 change
 the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
 expensive.

 How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
 sharing.

 Don



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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Fred Hazzard]

As always Terry your convoluted advise is a BIG help.  NOT!

 

Fast Freddie

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Fred, the older Yanmars have a reciprocating dingle valve to control the 
exhaust temperature in the fluval chamber. As you have already noticed, once 
the engine warms up, the dingle valve opens and lets the hot engine exhaust 
pass through the fluval chamber removing any excess unburned fuel. The newer 
engines have replaced the dingle valve with a resonating bundle arm so they 
don’t smoke even when just started.

 

Hope this helps...T 

 

From: Fred Hazzard mailto:fredhazz...@spiritone.com  

Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:54 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Rick:

 

My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins of 
motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from your 
experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter 
was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007.  This engine 
starts very easily and runs well.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes, 
etc.  10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw 
16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller trucks.

 

Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my 
previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k for 
a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  Melody
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Hi Don,

The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon 
from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000  
hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable 
with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. 

My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to 
have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best 
diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 
150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed
up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.  

Don

-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net] 
Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


Don
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract). 

Kim

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Nate Flesness]

Been wondering about this - servicing/rebuilding fuel injectors - is it
worth redoing 30+ year old ones for 50-75% of the cost of new ones?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
Cornucopia, WI


On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 10:18 PM, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:

  Hi Don,

 The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned
 carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from
 the 5,000  hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours
 is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not
 replacing or a rebuild.

 My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to
 Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He
 is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest
 guess is $100 - 150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

 ****Cheers, Russ
 *****Sweet *35 mk-1


 At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

 Hi Kim

 Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
 blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
 smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up
 it
 seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are
 backed
 up here in Victoria).

 What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
 around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
 also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
 the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
 expensive.

 How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
 sharing.

 Don

 -Original Message-
 From: Kim Brown [ mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net kimcbr...@comcast.net]
 Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


 Don
 Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
 we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
 Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
 smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
 injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
 other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
 was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
 tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the
 meager
 amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really
 worked
 wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
 right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
 building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
 I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
 it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
 my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
 PITA to extract).

 Kim Brown
 Trust Me 35-3


 

 Message: 3
 Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700
 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
 Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Hello all



 I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
 plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
 into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
 bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
 (last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy
 to
 clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
 serious.



 I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
 time to do that again.



 Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the
 knuckle
 - for example unburned diesel?



 Thanks for any insight.



 Don






 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Fred Hazzard]

Rick:

 

My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins of
motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from your
experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the hour
meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007.
This engine starts very easily and runs well.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes,
etc.  10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw
16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller
trucks.

 

Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my
previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k
for a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ 
Melody
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Hi Don,

The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon
from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the
5,000  hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is
attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing
or a rebuild. 

My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo
to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the
best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess
is $100 - 150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed
up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.  

Don

-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown [ mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net
mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net ] 
Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


Don
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract). 

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3  



Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello all

 

I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.

 

I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Terry]

Fred, the older Yanmars have a reciprocating dingle valve to control the 
exhaust temperature in the fluval chamber. As you have already noticed, once 
the engine warms up, the dingle valve opens and lets the hot engine exhaust 
pass through the fluval chamber removing any excess unburned fuel. The newer 
engines have replaced the dingle valve with a resonating bundle arm so they 
don’t smoke even when just started.

Hope this helps...T 

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

Rick:

 

My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins of 
motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from your 
experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter 
was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007.  This engine 
starts very easily and runs well.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes, 
etc.  10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw 
16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller trucks.

 

Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my 
previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k for 
a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  Melody
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Hi Don,

The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon 
from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000  
hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable 
with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. 

My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to 
have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best 
diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 
150  per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed
up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.  

Don

-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net] 
Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


Don
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract). 

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3  



Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
Content-Type: text

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Rick Brass]

Let’s see: 27 year old engine, used 4 or 5 months a year so call it 100
engine hours, Call ir 3000 hours on the engine. And given the age it is
probably raw water cooled.

 

Question 1 is white smoke or black smoke?

 

Black smoke would be soot/unburned fuel. Could be a cold cylinder head
(let’s see, Lake Superior gets up to something like 45F in August, right?),
an incorrect or misfunctioning thermostat that is letting too much bypass
water flow and prolonging warmup time, or pump or  injectors starting to
wear and overfueling the engine. In that case the black smoke would tend to
go away after the engine gets to operating temp and combustion is more
complete. Depending on the engine hours, if the rings are getting worn you
could have reduced compression, which would cause some incomplete combustion
after the glow plugs are turned off until the engine block and head come up
to normal temperature.

 

White smoke is coolant. A possible case would be an early sign of head
gasket failure. A very small amount of cooling water getting past the head
gasket will flash into steam (white smoke) and as the block and head expand
with heat, the gasket will seal and water will stop. Is there a chance that
the engine has 4 or 5,000 hours on it? If so, it might be prudent to
retorque the head bolts to ensure a tight seal of the head gasket. 

 

With a more pronounced head gasket leak, especially with a FWC engine,
pressurized hot water will seep into the cylinder after the engine is turned
off and seep down into the oil pan. An early sign would be foam and gray
sludge in the oil, in addition to a big puff of white smoke when the engine
starts. Engine would still start, but would tend to run rough . On a FWC
engine you would see antifreeze coming out of the overflow bottle as the
engine runs, but on a RWC engine you would not notice much until the leak
became bad enough to cause a water lock and an engine that would not crank.

 

Not sure if any of that will help. But it may give you a place to start when
troubleshooting.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hazzard
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

 

Rick:

 

My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started.  After about 5 mins of
motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little.  An thoughts from your
experience with these Yanmars?  I have no idea of the hours as the hour
meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007.
This engine starts very easily and runs well.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland, Or

 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Russ Melody]

Hi Don,

The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned 
carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way 
from the 5,000  hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 
10,000 hours is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs 
servicing, not replacing or a rebuild.


My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to 
Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel 
Injection. He is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver 
Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 150  per injector... but 
maybe phone Floyd for a chat.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote:

Hi Kim

Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up it
seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed
up here in Victoria).

What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 with
around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change
the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
expensive.

How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
sharing.

Don

-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net]
Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


Don
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract).

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3



Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello all



I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.



I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time to do that again.



Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
- for example unburned diesel?



Thanks for any insight.



Don






___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Don Jonsson]

Hello all

 

I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.

 

I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time to do that again.  

 

Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
- for example unburned diesel?

 

Thanks for any insight.

 

Don

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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[David Risch]

Don,

Ever blow an impeller in years past?
  David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell

-Original Message-
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:44:51 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle



Hello all
 
I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has plugged 
twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle into the 
mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid bit that had 
gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time (last week) was 
due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to clear and I was on 
my way, but is this a harbinger of something more serious.
 
I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is time 
to do that again.  
 
Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle - 
for example unburned diesel?
 
Thanks for any insight.
 
Don

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Don Jonsson]

Once, many years ago.  I checked it when it overheated two years ago and it
was fine - i.e. the bit didn't come off of it.  I didn't check it this time,
as when I cleared the knuckle the water was pumping fine and I was running
late in catching the ebb home.

-Original Message-
From: David Risch [mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com] 
Sent: May-13-13 10:47 AM
To: Don Jonsson ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

Don,

Ever blow an impeller in years past?
  David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell

-Original Message-
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:44:51 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle



Hello all
 
I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.
 
I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time to do that again.  
 
Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
- for example unburned diesel?
 
Thanks for any insight.
 
Don


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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Dennis C.]

Pluggage at the small elbow where the cooling water enters the mix elbow is 
common in older Yanmars. Remove the small elbow. Clean it and its entry point 
to the mix elbow. 

More an irritation than a concern. 

My feeling is it's due to excessive idling and low rpm running. Push the engine 
a bit harder. Rev it up in gear at the dock before shutting down. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 13, 2013, at 12:52 PM, Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca wrote:

 Once, many years ago.  I checked it when it overheated two years ago and it
 was fine - i.e. the bit didn't come off of it.  I didn't check it this time,
 as when I cleared the knuckle the water was pumping fine and I was running
 late in catching the ebb home.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: David Risch [mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com] 
 Sent: May-13-13 10:47 AM
 To: Don Jonsson ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
 
 Don,
 
 Ever blow an impeller in years past?
  David F. Risch
 (401) 419-4650 cell
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
 Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:44:51 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
 
 
 
 Hello all
  
 I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
 plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
 into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
 bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
 (last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
 clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
 serious.
  
 I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
 time to do that again.  
  
 Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
 - for example unburned diesel?
  
 Thanks for any insight.
  
 Don
 
 
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Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Kim Brown]

Don 
Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because
we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for
Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra
smoke on start, oily exhaust water.  So better here than there. Had the
injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted
other potential trouble spots.  The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and
was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow
tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager
amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked
wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops
right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel
building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore.
I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so
it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on
my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a
PITA to extract). 

Kim Brown 
Trust Me 35-3  



Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700
From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello all

 

I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled.  It has
plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle
into the mixing elbow.  The first time (summer before last) was some solid
bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know.  The last time
(last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle.  Easy to
clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more
serious.

 

I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is
time to do that again.  

 

Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle
- for example unburned diesel?

 

Thanks for any insight.

 

Don



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