Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-03-05 Thread bobmor99 . via CnC-List
I use ammonia (+TSP if there is a lot of grunge) as first steps of interior
teak prep. Might take 6-7-8 applications to get the teak almost ready.
Final prep I use 220 or 320 grit on a random orbital sander or sand by hand.
I'm trying Minwax Valspar WATER based satin, semi-gloss and gloss to finish
the interior of my new-to-me Cal-31.
Very happy with the results so far. Avoid the non-waterbased Valspar. It's
hard to work with.
I used to have a C&C 33-1. (Irma snatched her.)
--Bob M

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and
> dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type
> of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish
> the interior woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc.,
> and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of
> the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch.
>
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?
>
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.
>
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an
> informed decision.
>
> Thanks for the insights!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-28 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
I think mine is the same as yours, almost as though they maybe used a rubbed 
oil finish, as you can feel the grain, and despite the wear, there are no chips 
where varnish has come off.  It is teak, but very light colored.
Thus the lack of clarity on my part as to what to do.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Alan Liles via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/28/18  9:37 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Alan Liles  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole) 
My 1994 37/40+ has a light colored stain on the teak, I suppose, in an effort 
to lighten up the cabin. I, also, wonder what I would use to match the color. 
Al LilesSV Elendil Vancouver BC


On Feb 27, 2018, at 3:26 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every 
spring.  Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great 
results John and MaryannLegacy III1982 C&C 34Noank, CT From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole) Bruce, if 
you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to last and it 
leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the teak. First, 
I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 grip 
paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to dry, 
then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.You can varnish over most teak oils.Peregrine was done that 
way before I got her and in the five years I had her the finish still looked 
terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with vinegar and water every now 
and then. AndyFormerly: C&C 40Peregrine Now: Baltic 47Masquerade On Tue, Feb 
27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:Hello all, I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, 
worn and dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of 
varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the 
interior woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd 
really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom 
so I don't have to refinish every square inch. What should I use to remove the 
existing coating (if I should remove it at all), and what would you recommend 
for a new coating?   I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood 
dark over time.   I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to 
make an informed decision. Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




-- Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-28 Thread Alan Liles via CnC-List
My 1994 37/40+ has a light colored stain on the teak, I suppose, in an effort 
to lighten up the cabin. I, also, wonder what I would use to match the color. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
Vancouver BC


> On Feb 27, 2018, at 3:26 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every spring. 
>  Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
> companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great 
> results
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
>  
> Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
> last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain 
> the teak.
>  
> First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 
> 180 grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that 
> to dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for 
> it's durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of 
> Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that 
> gives off a beautiful lustre.
> You can varnish over most teak oils.
> Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her 
> the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with 
> vinegar and water every now and then.
>  
> Andy
> Formerly: C&C 40
> Peregrine
>  
> Now: Baltic 47
> Masquerade
>  
> On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello all,
>  
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
> out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
> lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
> woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
> like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
> don't have to refinish every square inch.
>  
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating? 
>  
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time. 
>  
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
> decision.
>  
> Thanks for the insights!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-27 Thread John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every spring.  
Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great results

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the 
teak.

 

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 
grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to 
dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.

You can varnish over most teak oils.

Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her 
the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with 
vinegar and water every now and then.

 

Andy

Formerly: C&C 40

Peregrine

 

Now: Baltic 47

Masquerade

 

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-27 Thread Ron Ricci via CnC-List
Bruce,

 

I’ve cleaned mine with vinegar and applied Epifanes rubbed effect varnish.  The 
rubbed effect does not have UV inhibitors.  For areas exposed to sunlight, I 
apply clear varnish and a final coat of rubbed effect.  Last year, I did my 
companionway ladder and sanded it first.  The shade and color match.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:03 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-27 Thread Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
I should have been a little more clear - the lemon oil I used was on my 
previous 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, not this boat, so I don't have to clean that off.  
I was really hoping for something a little less intensive than varnishing the 
entire inside.  I know, that's pure wishful thinking... :)   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
 Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:25 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
   
Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the 
teak.

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 
grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to 
dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.You can varnish over most teak oils.Peregrine was done that 
way before I got her and in the five years I had her the finish still looked 
terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with vinegar and water every now 
and then.
AndyFormerly: C&C 40Peregrine
Now: Baltic 47Masquerade
On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,
I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.
What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  
I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  
I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.
Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray






-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



   ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-27 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going
to last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will
stain the teak.

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with
180 grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow
that to dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money)
for it's durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of
Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that
gives off a beautiful lustre.
You can varnish over most teak oils.
Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had
her the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down
with vinegar and water every now and then.

Andy
Formerly: C&C 40
Peregrine

Now: Baltic 47
Masquerade

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and
> dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type
> of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish
> the interior woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc.,
> and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of
> the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch.
>
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?
>
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.
>
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an
> informed decision.
>
> Thanks for the insights!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

2018-02-27 Thread Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Hello all,
I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.
What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  
I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  
I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.
Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray