Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

ACR - combines battery banks for charging and separates them when not charging.
Regulator - controls the alternator.
You need both ;) (or a switch and a human for the ACR)
You still want to see the amps coming out of your alternator. I use this device 
for mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDQM6Z4/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8=1487346315=sr-1=hall+effect
It does not need a shunt, which is very nice. High side shunts are a PITA.
I wrote about it here:
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9835


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:27
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to eliminate 
the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I have that 
conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to the batteries. 
 I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage voltage regulators 
vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator of some sort if I remove 
the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether one also needs an ACR.  Dave
 
PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the water 
heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> David, 
> 
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.  
> If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty 
> method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from 
> the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your 
> regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
> 
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link 
> below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost.
> 
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
> 
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter 
> useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a 
> shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a linear voltage drop 
> (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative 
> battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage 
> reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current 
> (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will 
> represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. 
>  Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be 
> used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter would need to be selected such 
> that it matches the shunt in order to read properly.  Placing the shunt on 
> the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents 
> can be measured.  
> 
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
> 
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a 
> tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge 
> current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full 
> capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after 
> start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the 
> engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps 
> momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but 
> on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine 
> and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant 
> concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator 
> to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
> maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  
> 
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer conne

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The water heater has a ~6 gallon capacity.  If you attempt to freeze
protect it then you would need to flush out the water with glycol and
probably end up using 3 or 4 gallons in the process.  Glycol isn't cheap
and considering that you can eliminate the risk of freezing simply by
draining, glycol in the water heater is a waste of money.

The ACR allows changing of a second bank once the first bank gets up to
near full charge.  A multi-stage regulator is what controls the alternator
output voltage to provide fast, efficient charging which also promotes
longer battery life.

Josh



On Feb 17, 2017 10:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to
eliminate the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I
have that conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to
the batteries.  I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage
voltage regulators vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator
of some sort if I remove the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether
one also needs an ACR.  Dave

PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the
water heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking
for.  If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and
dirty method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire
from the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program
your regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
>
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the
link below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good
ballpark cost.
>
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-
354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%
2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+
Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
>
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your
ammeter useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by
installing a shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a
linear voltage drop (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt
attached to the negative battery terminal and all of the ground paths
attached to the shunt, a voltage reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be
proportional to the current (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the
shunt or signal wire will represent only millivolts more than ground so a
fault would not be hazardous.  Since the signal voltage is so low a very
long run of signal wire could be used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter
would need to be selected such that it matches the shunt in order to read
properly.  Placing the shunt on the ground terminal also ensures that total
charging and discharging currents can be measured.
>
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=
CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
>
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a
tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge
current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full
capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after
start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from
the engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps
momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor
but on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the
engine and often in opposite directions of one another its a more
significant concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade
their alternator to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe
for disaster.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to
boat maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.
>
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors
described here:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_
wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I also have the panel pictured in this
article with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already replaced one of the
trailer connectors (partially melted) by directly splicing all the wires to
their mates with butt connectors and will do the other in the spring.   I
have read the article a number of times now and am reasonably sure I should
also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of the

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to eliminate 
the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I have that 
conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to the batteries. 
 I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage voltage regulators 
vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator of some sort if I remove 
the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether one also needs an ACR.  Dave
 
PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the water 
heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David, 
> 
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.  
> If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty 
> method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from 
> the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your 
> regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
> 
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link 
> below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost.
> 
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
> 
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter 
> useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a 
> shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a linear voltage drop 
> (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative 
> battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage 
> reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current 
> (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will 
> represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. 
>  Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be 
> used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter would need to be selected such 
> that it matches the shunt in order to read properly.  Placing the shunt on 
> the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents 
> can be measured.  
> 
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
> 
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a 
> tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge 
> current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full 
> capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after 
> start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the 
> engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps 
> momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but 
> on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine 
> and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant 
> concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator 
> to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
> maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  
> 
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors 
> described here:  
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I 
> also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer.  I 
> have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by 
> directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will 
> do the other in the spring.   I have read the article a number of times now 
> and am reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he 
> recommends, but some of the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time 
> understanding the whole thing if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has 
> anyone created a wiring diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow 
> plugs/panel on these Universals?  
> 
> More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: 
> Simply jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the 
> orange wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet 
> of teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to 

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

David,

It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.
If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty
method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from
the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your
regulator to match your house battery chemistry.

The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link
below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark
cost.

http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99

Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your
ammeter useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by
installing a shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a
linear voltage drop (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt
attached to the negative battery terminal and all of the ground paths
attached to the shunt, a voltage reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be
proportional to the current (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the
shunt or signal wire will represent only millivolts more than ground so a
fault would not be hazardous.  Since the signal voltage is so low a very
long run of signal wire could be used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter
would need to be selected such that it matches the shunt in order to read
properly.  Placing the shunt on the ground terminal also ensures that total
charging and discharging currents can be measured.

https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw

The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a
tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge
current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full
capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after
start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from
the engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps
momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor
but on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the
engine and often in opposite directions of one another its a more
significant concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade
their alternator to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe
for disaster.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat
maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.

First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors
described here:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_
wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I also have the panel pictured in this
article with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already replaced one of the
trailer connectors (partially melted) by directly splicing all the wires to
their mates with butt connectors and will do the other in the spring.   I
have read the article a number of times now and am reasonably sure I should
also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of the
details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time understanding the whole thing
if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a wiring diagram
for the starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these Universals?

More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: *Simply
jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange
wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of
teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way
back to the battery switch and then to the battery banks.*
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as
I never look at it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the
alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am
having trouble seeing what this accomplishes.

Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two
options.  First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an
ACR to the starter battery.  Second would be a charge controller (Balmar
614) between the alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right that it is
one or the other?  What I read from the same site makes me think the charge
controller is the much better option since I have AGM batteries and he
discusses extensively the problems of Motorola alternators, temperature
compensation and charge control http://www.pbase.com/
mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries.

Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, 

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

David — you beat me to it!  You’re correct, typical wiring on boats like ours 
had a heavy-gauge cable from the alternator out put to the starter solenoid, 
which just served as a convenient connection terminal to get the alternator 
current back to the battery, which also had a heavy-gauge wire to the starter 
solenoid.

When I’ve redone the electrical on both my boats, I replaced this connection 
with a heavy lead directly to the positive bus bar for the house bank; if you 
put in an external alternator regulator like the Balmar, I’d recommend you do 
the same.  And at the risk of all the rude comments, make sure it’s properly 
fused at the house bank…   :^)

— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave NW
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 8:48 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Hi Russ-   I found a diagram that Rich posted a while ago buried in my files 
> and it is helping me to sort this out.   I was thinking this jumper had to do 
> with starting, but the power for the starter is coming from the battery so 
> that made no sense.  So I think that this jumper is about efficient charging 
> and you are just using the terminal on the starter as a junction to get power 
> from the alternator to the battery more directly.  If that is right, then if 
> I put in a Balmar charge controller, then I presume this problem will go away 
> and there is no need for the jumper?  Dave
> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

 Hi Russ-   I found a diagram that Rich posted a while ago buried in my files 
and it is helping me to sort this out.   I was thinking this jumper had to do 
with starting, but the power for the starter is coming from the battery so that 
made no sense.  So I think that this jumper is about efficient charging and you 
are just using the terminal on the starter as a junction to get power from the 
alternator to the battery more directly.  If that is right, then if I put in a 
Balmar charge controller, then I presume this problem will go away and there is 
no need for the jumper?  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David,

I've had alternator to starter lead wired like 
that on so many boats that I cannot recall any 
other way. On one baot I did have an ammeter but 
it was located very close to the engine so the 
lead was alt > ammeter -> starter lead, less than 18" of wire.


The purpose of this arrangement is to utilize the 
heavy gauge starter wire for the alt. For obvious 
reasons it is wired to the battery side of the starter terminals :)


I also use a glow plug relay, typically the low 
cost Ford Motor Company ancient starter relay, say 80s F-150.


The ACR will be wired from start battery to house 
bank. Again, this is the most common arrangement.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:44 AM 12/02/2017, you wrote:
Siting here watching lots of snow come down 
makes my thoughts turn to boat maintenance and I 
have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.


First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the 
infamous trailer connectors described 
here: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1. 
I also have the panel pictured in this article 
with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already 
replaced one of the trailer connectors 
(partially melted) by directly splicing all the 
wires to their mates with butt connectors and 
will do the other in the spring.   I have read 
the article a number of times now and am 
reasonably sure I should also do the starter 
circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of 
the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time 
understanding the whole thing if I can’t look 
at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a 
wiring diagram for the 
starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these Universals?


More specifically- his first recommendation is 
the quick and dirty fix: Simply jump the 
alternator output to the starter post and 
disconnect the orange wire. With this jumper the 
alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of 
teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge 
starter wire to make its way back to the battery 
switch and then to the battery banks.
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely 
(no big loss in my book as I never look at 
it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is 
important since the alternator does not drive 
the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am 
having trouble seeing what this accomplishes.


Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- 
I think I have two options.  First would be 
running the alternator to the house bank and an 
ACR to the starter battery.  Second would be a 
charge controller (Balmar 614) between the 
alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right 
that it is one or the other?  What I read from 
the same site makes me think the charge 
controller is the much better option since I 
have AGM batteries and he discusses extensively 
the problems of Motorola alternators, 
temperature compensation and charge control 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries. 



Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he 
discusses, is this the right solenoid to use: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057=2262949




Second unrelated question:
In his section on winterizing water systems he 
says: Water heaters are always drained and 
by-passed you do not run pink through them!


I have done this both ways, but I can’t see 
why it is so much better to bypass and drain.  I 
found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater 
so have been doing it the easy way of emptying 
the water tanks and then running propylene 
glycol through until red comes out both hot and 
cold lines.  Maybe if I plumbed it to make 
bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I 
can’t see why it matters other than using more antifreeze.


Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]




___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  

First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors 
described here:  
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1 
. I 
also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer.  I 
have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by 
directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will do 
the other in the spring.   I have read the article a number of times now and am 
reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, 
but some of the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time understanding the 
whole thing if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a wiring 
diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these 
Universals?  

More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: Simply 
jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange wire. 
With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of teeny tiny 
10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way back to the 
battery switch and then to the battery banks.
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as I 
never look at it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the 
alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am having 
trouble seeing what this accomplishes.

Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two options.  
First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an ACR to the 
starter battery.  Second would be a charge controller (Balmar 614) between the 
alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right that it is one or the other?  
What I read from the same site makes me think the charge controller is the much 
better option since I have AGM batteries and he discusses extensively the 
problems of Motorola alternators, temperature compensation and charge control 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries
 
.
  

Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, is this the right solenoid 
to use: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057=2262949
 




Second unrelated question:
In his section on winterizing water systems he says: Water heaters are always 
drained and by-passed you do not run pink through them! 

I have done this both ways, but I can’t see why it is so much better to bypass 
and drain.  I found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater so have been 
doing it the easy way of emptying the water tanks and then running propylene 
glycol through until red comes out both hot and cold lines.  Maybe if I plumbed 
it to make bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I can’t see why it 
matters other than using more antifreeze.  

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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