Re: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start)
The soft start kits sold by Harbach are totally different for SB-220 amps and L-4B amps. My opinion is they are both way over priced. The PC layouts are done in amateur fashion and not very logical, in my estimation. (They certainly could be layed out much smaller and have much shorter trace lines to help RF from seeping into the circuit). Their "hang time" is very short, and it is fixed unless you change cap and resistor values. For about the same money, you can put in a new surplus real adjustable time delay relay plus another new 40 amp solid state relay to take the load off the "on-off" switch and it will switch "in" at the right phase angle to stop the transformer from thumping when energized. Just my opinion, but each to his own. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Joe Loverti To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 4:49 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start) I put a Harbach Soft Start in my Heathkit SB-200. It was wired correctly and installed per instructions – everything was double and triple checked. When I powered up the amp the Harbach Soft Start immediately when up in smoke – boy did it stink up the shack for a few days. I contacted Jeff Harbach and told him what had happened. He told me I must have done something wrong well, that is remotely possible I guess. He didn't offer to replace the kit and I didn't ask. But, I seriously doubt I did anything wrong...I've built many kits in the past and have a good track record with them. Later, on the Yahoo Heathkit amp forum, I found out Harbach Soft Starts are not without problems – a bad or sticky relay coul to begin with. Other guys have had similar problems with them. The L4B is obviously a much different animal than an SB-200... but, for what it's worth, that's my story with a Harbach Soft Start. Joe WW8X -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-7 Amp Soft Start.
Has anyone on here installed a Harbach SS-400 type "Soft Start" kit in their L-7? (This is the kit with the single relay and single dropping resistor and not the one used in a Heath SB-220). I know the SS-400 was made to install in a L-4B amp. I have not really studied the room requirements, but I suspect there is little room for this board in a L-7. If it won't fit, I'll consider a time delay relay instead or redesign a board to fit any available space in the amp. (I realize some guys feel no soft start is needed for a 3-500Z tube as you feel it is "instant on", nor is needed to protect an on-off switch if a relay is used to isolate the power surge from an on-off switch. I understand all that). Just want to find out if the SS-400 will fit somewhere within a L-7 and if someone has already installed one. Thanks, Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] The Heathkit Shop L-4/L-7 Power Supply Upgrade Board
I just got another batch of The Heathkit Shop L-4/L-7 Power Supply Upgrade Boards from Mike Bryce for some Drake amps around here. (Bare Boards). Everytime I look at them I am amazed at the quality of these 1/8th inch thick boards. This was my third or fourth order for them. As far as I am concerned, this is the only way to go! They truly are Upgrade Boards from original. (1/8th inch thick fiberglass, silk screened and masked for accepting modern 105 degree C "snap in caps" plus use of all new 3 amp diodes, 2 watt balancing resistors and 5 watt bleeder/balancing resistors and all on one board too.) I've got an old Swan Mark 1 amplifier using 3-400Z tubes sitting around here too and plan to also put one of these boards in there. (lots of room to do this). I am also thinking of installing 2 or 3 Russian GI-7BT ceramic tubes in this amp. They only cost around $20 to $25 each so they would be fun to mess plus I have some around the shack. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Mike; In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance! You have to blame it on others. Installing your AC-4R and the one for the Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic. You don't even need written instructions if you can read a schematic and understand how the device works. This whole discussion points out how inebt ham radio has become in general over time. I think I have purchased around 20 AC-4R boards and around 3 or 4 boards for Drake amps from you. Never a problem and you supply a great 1st class product and service. There is a discussion going on right now on another reflector over doing some simple math using Algebra. One guy needs to get a solution but doesn't know algebra. I say, go to night school and get some remeadial training. There are just too many people today wanting others to always "bail them out". Lee, w0vt Houston, Texas MikeSubject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit Boys and girls... Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake changed over production runs. Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire with a white tracer. the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really problematic. 1. orange 2. orange with white tracer 3. white with orange tracer 4. red now, pick one! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?
I think it is called Drake TR-7 grey. Take the cover to Sherwin Williams and they will match the color for you. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Noise In R4-C
Best bet, leaking capacitor, or even a small chance it is a cracked resistor. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Kevin Nathan To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 12:53 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Noise In R4-C Hi All, I would like to draw on the wisdom of the group here. My R4-C seems to be developing a sort of frying noise when I am listening. It is really apparent on SSB but also now is getting worse on AM as well. It does not seem to effect audio quality but is running competition at times with the received signal. Does anyone have an idea what this might be? Someone mentioned that there is a particular tube, perhaps a 6EJ7, that gets gassy and can cause this. Any thoughts? Thanks all and very 73. Kevin :) Amateur Radio: K7RX -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out??
Yes, you got it, the filament wire coming out of the glass envelope is most likely not soldered to it's pin. (Outside looks mean nothing). It could be one pin or the other. Maybe it was never soldered properly by the manufacturer but as someone else mentioned, many times the tension of the spring in the tube socket can "let go" and thus not make a good connection with the tube pin. then the resistance heats up the connection and the solder "lets go" and/or the tension on the tube socket from the heat gets even weaker. Bending the tube socket pins can help, but if the spring action is gone due to heat, the tube socket should be replaced with one with better "spring tension" built into the metal itself. (heat is a killer). Silver solder is a good idea too when re soldering the pins as well as a heat shield for the glass as you re-solder the two pins. You have all the good advice you need. Go do it. We all think your problem will then be solved. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Joe Loverti To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 12:05 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out?? Thanks for the replies Everyone, I'm gathering that it's possible for the pins to look good, with a nice closure on the end of the pin, even though the solder has re-melted and disassociated from the wire up inside?? As suggested, I will attempt to re-solder the filament pins and see what happens. I guess nothing would be lost, as the alternative is purchasing another tube. Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of solder and flux should be used in this process? Are there any special considerations that should be taken into account here due to the heat sensitivity of the application? 73 with regards, Joe Loverti Jr. WS8X -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out??
Why don't you do the obvious? That is, resolder the filament pins. Seems to me a filament wire coming out of the glass envelope is not making a good solder connection to the filament wire. Just because the solder at the end of the filament pins look good doesn't mean the wire within the pin is actually soldered to it's pin. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Joe Loverti To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 8:51 PM Subject: [Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out?? Hello to All- Let me preface this by stating that I am very "green" at troubleshooting amplifiers, so please bear with me :) I've owned and operated a Drake L-7 amplifier for several years without incident. The other day I noticed my output pwr was diminished by about 400 watts. I had a look at the back of the RF deck and noticed the outboard 3-500Z filament was extinguished. After the sinking feeling set it in, I un-plugged everything and took the cover off the amp. I pulled the tube that was un-lit and inspected it visually. I could see no signs of anything cooked, cracked, burnt, et al. I decided to swap the tube positions and put the good tube in the outboard socket and put the bad tube in the other socket. I put everything back together and lit the amp off again. I noticed that both filaments were now glowing brightly and I was getting full output again in my dummy load. All was OK for a day or so. Then yesterday, I noticed the filament was out again on the tube that was switched. Only now this tube was in the other socket. I've read on the web that it's common to the solder on the filament pins on the 3-500Z to run out due to heat over time. This causes a bad connection between the filament pins and the tube socket. I've inspected the pins on the tube and they do not reveal any signs of solder leaking out of the bottoms whatsoever. They all look perfectly intact. I also inspected the socket and the "pin grippers" in the sockets. They look to be in good shape and seem fairly snug. I cleaned the contacts with a Q-tip and some De-oxit while I was in there. Some research on the Web suggested that a check of continuity is recommended to see if the tube is the culprit and / or if it can be fixed. I tested the filament pins (1 and 5) on the suspected culprit 3-500Z and I AM reading continuity. But... the reading jumps around and isn't stable. I also tested the wires above the pins that lead up into the envelope of the tube. The readings here are also showing continuity but, aren't stable. The meter jumps around a lot. I'm planning on checking the "good" tube tomorrow to see how the readings compare on it. I did not have time enough to get to it today. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what might be the cause or if there are other tests I could conduct to help diagnose the issue? I suppose I could go and buy a new set of bottles for the amplifier. The tubes that are currently in the amp are most likely the original Eimac's. They have had a long service life. I think I'd rather get do some more testing before "throwing tubes" at a problem. Especially, if there is something else that I may be overlooking due to inexperience. As usual, thanks for your time and assistance going forward! Happy Christmas and New Year, Joe Loverti Jr. WS8X -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Low Receive
I had a TR-4 once I acqured with the same problem. The calibrator signal was very strong but the reciever was deaf. Apparently the rig was hit with a lightning strike and took out the couple turn link from the antenna to one of the can transformers. (I don't have a schematic in front of me). I had to remove a coupling shaft to get at the can transformer and remove it and then remove the can over the RF transformer. The link coil was melted apart. All I had to do was make a new link, maybe 2 or 3 turns as I recall, out of magnet wire and reverse the process. My protection lamp also needed replacing as well as the slide switch. Once this was done, everything worked just fine. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Paul Gerhardt" To: Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 10:23 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 Low Receive TR-4 TR-4 I am working now seems to have two main 'issues' 1. Low Receive. I have checked and cleaned the antenna relay and ohming out the circuit it appears to be switching OK. The Cal Function seems to work normally and according to the schematic seems to inject the signal to the grid of V7 which is nearly the same point that the Receive Antenna Signal comes in. The Cal Signal provides a S9 plus some S meter reading on 40M and plenty of audio to the speaker. The receive signals are quite weak and even the strongest signals do not move the meter. They are copyable with the audio gain up all the way however. The transmitter seems to work normally. Other bands are pretty much the same with the Cal signal being weaker as one goes up in freq. The transmitter seems normal. 2. One Xtal filter seems 'dead' only the X position works on any band. All the tubes have been checked and the V7 has been subbed with the same result. Transmitter shows good power and modulation on both SSB and AM (in the X pos) I am tempted to start trying to align the RF and mixer transformers T9 T10 but I really think there is an open or hi resistance in the RX ant path. The antenna jack reads a short in the RX position and this seems to be 'normal' as the coupling to T9 should show only the resistance of the T9 and the small coax from the Lamp Fuse. Any other troubleshooting ideas from the group? -- Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] My AC-4 is humming just a little.
When you installed the AC-4R kit, you most likely mounted the board using the transformer bolts. If you used them, are the bolts and nuts tight? If not, this could have created your hum. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 6jb6
The color of Sylvania tubes had to do with were they "AFTERMARKET" or "ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT." The tubes were the same, just how they were purchased . Lee, w0vt___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] High Voltage Wirei
You can use the center conductor and insulation from a piece of RG-8 coax. Lee, w0vt___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting
My post has nothing to do with 7-Line paint finishes. Lee, w0vt I could never understand why anyone would send their cabinet to Harzell for repainting in the first place. Since they powder coat them now, their process is not the same as when they first painted them with Polane paint. If the company is not going to make them look original, why use them? You can have anyone repaint the cabinet to have it look different. I have no doubt their repaint cabinets look nice, but original look, NO! Better to spend the $45 finding a nice original one and use the $45 to buy it. Or, repaint the cabinet yourself for the experience. You can simulate the Polane look by spraying with Satin Black and then over spraying with Semi-Gloss black. Spatter the Semi-Gloss bye drilling out the spray can nozzle before over spraying and allowing the paint to dribble onto the cabinet in small droplets. (The droplets will flatten out as it dries). Practice the technique before actually restoring your Drake cabinet. You will be suprised how nice the final product looks. Remember how well you do the metal prep work and primer coat will affect your final finish. No final paint job is going to hide your prep work mistakes or lack of it. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: gypsym...@aol.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 4:26 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting Hi folks, FWIW Took a cabinet up to Hartzell in Miamisburg, OH today, as they did the original Drake cabinets. I live about three miles from them. Was going to have refinished. I had sticky paint, which is/was literally impossible to sand off. In any case somewhere in the list stuff it says $25 per piece , and lots of folks have done so. (I could live with that its been a pain) TODAY I was quoted $45 for one piece. Yes I know $ everything is up...but perhaps they really don't want to do it. For that amount I'll grind it off. Carl wd8nhk ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting
I could never understand why anyone would send their cabinet to Harzell for repainting in the first place. Since they powder coat them now, their process is not the same as when they first painted them with Polane paint. If the company is not going to make them look original, why use them? You can have anyone repaint the cabinet to have it look different. I have no doubt their repaint cabinets look nice, but original look, NO! Better to spend the $45 finding a nice original one and use the $45 to buy it. Or, repaint the cabinet yourself for the experience. You can simulate the Polane look by spraying with Satin Black and then over spraying with Semi-Gloss black. Spatter the Semi-Gloss bye drilling out the spray can nozzle before over spraying and allowing the paint to dribble onto the cabinet in small droplets. (The droplets will flatten out as it dries). Practice the technique before actually restoring your Drake cabinet. You will be suprised how nice the final product looks. Remember how well you do the metal prep work and primer coat will affect your final finish. No final paint job is going to hide your prep work mistakes or lack of it. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: gypsym...@aol.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 4:26 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting Hi folks, FWIW Took a cabinet up to Hartzell in Miamisburg, OH today, as they did the original Drake cabinets. I live about three miles from them. Was going to have refinished. I had sticky paint, which is/was literally impossible to sand off. In any case somewhere in the list stuff it says $25 per piece , and lots of folks have done so. (I could live with that its been a pain) TODAY I was quoted $45 for one piece. Yes I know $ everything is up...but perhaps they really don't want to do it. For that amount I'll grind it off. Carl wd8nhk -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A
Many years ago, just before Drake stopped accepting TR-4 s for repair, my neighbor, WA5VGO sent his TR-4 to Drake for some repair. The radio came back with three different final tubes then when shipped to Drake. One of the three new tubes was as you described. A sweep tube with a printed circuit on the bottom changing the pin out of the tube. I don't know if it was a 6JM6 or not. However, the tube was put in there by Drake. Also, the three new tubes were taller then original and Drake had dimpled the top tube cage cover to accommodate the extra height of the new tubes. Strange indeed, but the radio worked just fine with these tubes. Lee, w0vt Hello! Just to complicate a bit more this subject ;-), some years ago I worked on a TR-4C which had 6JM6 tubes on it. You can read about that here: http://jvgavila.com/dktr4c_1.htm They had a professional-looking adaptor on their bases but, definitely, worked. And were labeled as 6JB6A! So it seems that, with some imagination, you can get a Drake transmitter working with slightly different tubes. Of course, I would stick with 6JB6 while they last. Regards, JOSE -- 73 EB5AGV - JOSE V. GAVILA - IM99sm La Canyada - Valencia(SPAIN) ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fire... really
It's been my experience when this happens, it is a tantalum capacitor that blew up. Is there was there one nearby? Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Richard Palmer To: Ron Cc: Drakelist Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Fire... really I forgot to mention that there was a 2" flame... hence fire. The tune and load caps were clean as are the coils in the tank. I thought that maybe something wrapped in paper light up. The flame was by where the relay is. I would have bet good money that some sign of the fire would be obvious. But no signs on either side of the chassis, no sign on either of the case covers. No bare leads where something use to be and no blistered pieces. But that smell was very acid. Even the memory of it makes my head pang. It's sitting for now and I'm using a TS-570G. (I prefer my Drake though) On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 9:10 PM, Ron wrote: Rick, Sorry to her you had issues with one of our "loved ones" :-) Acidic smell sounds like an electrolytic cap. Don't recall if any exist in the PA area, but if they do they would not be in "the cage". There might be something below the cage under the chassis. If there was a fire and now it is gone without an obvious trace, have a look at your tune and load caps. Arc over in tank circuit caps tend to occur and then vanish, but they leave scorch and pits marks on the caps. Unfortunately those marks are there to assist another arc over in the future. But I would not think that a tank circuit cap would be acidic smelling. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 8/20/10, Richard Palmer wrote: From: Richard Palmer Subject: [Drakelist] Fire... really To: "Drakelist" Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:04 PM My TR-4 did not want to tune... it caught on fire that looked like it was at the PA section probably around the relay. All I could really do was grab switches and plugs faster than anything I've done in the last twenty years. The smoke was not the conventional electric smell. It was very acid and burning. I sorta took in a nose full doing the above and felt high, in a bad way. I just got around to looking at it and can not find any burnt or distorted part. There is absolutely no sign of soot or heat anywhere. Seeing this I tried to tune her up again. I was getting a very solid 4.5 for the plate current. Now it's only 3. Is it possible (likely) that I "smoked" one of my PA tubes? Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The OTHER Drake List
I need to apologize as pointed out by another member to Garey. As it turns out, my message never got sent to the Drake Yahoo group moderator, Garey. I sent a copy of the message to Garey. I also found out my Yahoo e-mail started to bounce at the same time. I have no idea why it was bouncing. Anyway, I am calmed down and all is well. Garey is a great asset and I value him as a friend and the advice he gives all of us. Thanks all for putting up with my rant. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The OTHER Drake List
It's now been over 5 hrs 20 min since I posted a message on the Yahoo Drake Radio list. Still no post. I would suggest to anyone wanting to post something about Drake stay away from that list. I was told to be patient. Why? A moderated list should not only have great members, but also great list owners and moderators. It's a two way street, especially when you set up a reflector on Yahoo which is FREE to the list owner. Surely you could find a number of moderators who could take turns watching the board. The great thing about e-mail is it is fast. If it takes e-mail more time then it takes to send a message through the US Postal Service, something is WRONG! Run a list correctly, or we will go away. I had a message for Garey as I was working on a project and had a simple question for him regarding a transistor he recommended a couple weeks ago. I forgot the part number. I needed the msg posted then. I should have put it on this reflector. I now used what I thought best but wanted Garey's recommendation. I no longer need the info. That list SUCKS! Yes, I am upset. Why can't a list moderate for awhile and then stop for that member if the member gives them no grief. I will think twice about ever posting something of value on there in the future. Thank goodness we have choices. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The OTHER Drake List
It took less then 2 minutes to get this message posted. Still waiting for the yahoo one. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "LEE BAHR" To: "Drake list" Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 8:54 PM Subject: [Drakelist] The OTHER Drake List I give up and don't plan to use the other Drake list unless I have to. I sent a message 4 1/2 hrs ago and it still is not posted. Sent another one and that too is not posted. Life is too short for this! If they want to moderate, fine, but get some moderators on board. Thank goodness this list exists. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] The OTHER Drake List
I give up and don't plan to use the other Drake list unless I have to. I sent a message 4 1/2 hrs ago and it still is not posted. Sent another one and that too is not posted. Life is too short for this! If they want to moderate, fine, but get some moderators on board. Thank goodness this list exists. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Value of a Drake Rig
I know I am not alone when I say the value of Drake radios today has something to do with the great advice Garey Barrell always gives freely to many needing help with their Drake radios. Garey's vast knowledge of these radio is a goldmine to all of us as has helped keep many of these fine radios working these many years after production. His fine DVD photos made available have helped many of us when working on our Drake gear too. Day after day, I see Garey helping someone on here. I just wanted you to know Garey, we notice and appreciate deeply all the help you have given to all of us. I bet at some time or another you have helped most everyone on here with one problem or another. I think I can say for many, nobody has given as much freely as you have to the group towards or beloved Drake gear. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 5:05 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T/R relay source for a T4XC? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] table saw for cutting phenolic and fiberglass boards
I use my table saw and chop saw to cut fiberglass PC board all the time. They cut great, true, accurate and very easily. It's a piece of cake. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Yes, the subject line is strange but trust me, it does relate to Drake. I'm in the process of finalizing a project and will be describing it in some open source publication or website. It relates to the power supplies used with the Drake L4, L4B, and L7 linear amplifiers. As part of this project, I need to saw the phenolic boards used in the supplies as well as sawing fiberglass-epoxy board, 1/8 inch thick, that is similar to high quality printed circuit boards, only without any foil on either side. My question is, can I use my table saw typically used to cut wood, to cut the phenolic and the fiberglass-epoxy board? I'm not sure if the material is so hard that it would cause heating and binding, or whether it would rapidly dull the blade. Your expert advice would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C issues
Why would you want to know about the chokes? There are more then one type in the radio. One is in the final plate lead or are you talking about the small ones or all of them? Is there more to this story? You need to give more information for help. Such as, how did it work prior to your cosmetic maintenance. If all you did was cosmetic stuff and it worked before you worked on it, I would suspect something simple such as the wrong tube in the wrong socket, or is the same tube in it's same socket? Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Loren McCullough To: LEE BAHR Cc: drakelist Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 10:11 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C issues No, hasn't been cleaned like that in many years. I should mention the maintenance I was doing was cosmetic, not electrical/mechanical. Loren - WA3WZR On 5/30/2010 11:08 PM, LEE BAHR wrote: Did you spray a lot of some sort of spray cleaner on the switch contacts and all over the tube socket pins? If you did, you could have set up leakage paths over insulation. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Loren McCullough" To: "drakelist" Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 9:59 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4C issues Was just putting my TR-4C back in service after having done some minor maintenance on it, now I am having some issues and need some assistance. Here are the symptoms: was tuning it up on 40m and could only get a maximum of about 80 watts out of it. I started going to different bands to check the output, on 80m I was getting about 150 watts out when the relay started oscillating in and out of transmit. Now it oscillates on all bands. Tried adjusting the vox controls and it does vary the oscillation, but not enough to stop it in the on position.. I don't have a spare 6EV7 for V19 (will have to get one on order), is this simply a VOX/RELAY problem, or should I be looking for something else? This TR-4C is s/n 39366. Also, is there a good source for the RF chokes? Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2906 - Release Date: 05/30/10 05:21:00 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C issues
Did you spray a lot of some sort of spray cleaner on the switch contacts and all over the tube socket pins? If you did, you could have set up leakage paths over insulation. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Loren McCullough" To: "drakelist" Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 9:59 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4C issues Was just putting my TR-4C back in service after having done some minor maintenance on it, now I am having some issues and need some assistance. Here are the symptoms: was tuning it up on 40m and could only get a maximum of about 80 watts out of it. I started going to different bands to check the output, on 80m I was getting about 150 watts out when the relay started oscillating in and out of transmit. Now it oscillates on all bands. Tried adjusting the vox controls and it does vary the oscillation, but not enough to stop it in the on position.. I don't have a spare 6EV7 for V19 (will have to get one on order), is this simply a VOX/RELAY problem, or should I be looking for something else? This TR-4C is s/n 39366. Also, is there a good source for the RF chokes? Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Hamvention Drake Forum
Evan: Why don't you give a run down as to what is on the DVD? Without knowing what was covered, I among others may have no idea if they want the DVD. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: k9...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 4:30 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Hamvention Drake Forum Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Thanks to all who attended. I enjoyed meeting many of you and I hope you all had a good time and a safe return trip home. We gave out all 150 raffle tickets, and were surprised that there were still more in attendance that arrived after that. Next year we'll have more tickets for the free raffle so everybody is accommodated and has a chance to win a free prize. The Drake pens are sure to be collectibles and the other prizes will be great additions to your Drake gear. True, Hamvention 2010 has one day left to this weekend with GREAT weather. Still it isn't too soon to be thinking about the Drake Forum for 2011. I'd like to solicit your inputs in terms of constructive criticism of this year's Forum as well as suggestions for next year's Forum. I have a hard outer shell so please be brutally honest with your comments and questions. We got off to a rushed start this year due to a carryover delay from the previous forum as well as tracking down the projection system connector that somebody had disconnected. So some of the onset material was presented in hyperspeed in an attempt to get caught up. If you need any fills, or info that was presented that there wasn't time to copy, please feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to help you out. Copies of the CD of the Forum will be made on a "break even" basis to cover mailing costs and materials. As soon as I can determine mailing costs, US mailing only and I am unable to ship outside continental US, I will let the group know what the cost will be. Thanks again for supporting the Dayton Hamvention and the Drake Forum. Hope to see you hear next year. 73, Evan, K9SQG For the Drake Forum Committee -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] C-line vs TR-7
I have both. I bought the TR-7 new. Of course the TR-7 is solid state. I like them both. I think you mean R-4C and T4-XC rather then a TR-4C. I have both types of Drake too. If I were going to make a choice, I'd stay with the Drake. Drake is easier to fix and parts are more available. It would be very hard to beat a Drake receiver and transmitter. It would be a toss up if you have a Drake transceiver. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: AirRadio To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 12:14 PM Subject: [Drakelist] C-line vs TR-7 Dilemma time... I have been offered a TR-7 but I have to sell my C-line to make room, now, comparisons, is the TR-7 any better than the C-line or the same, apart from the normal cosmetic issues (sticky paint etc) am I going to gain in the rx dept, also any other faults etc, the TR-7 seems to have a good write up etc though, but so does the C-line. 73 Max -- I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2566 of my spam emails to date. The Professional version does not have this message. -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 (and R4C) Noise Blanker question
I'm getting into this Noise Blanker thing, late. Have not read all the posts. If FAR Circuits were given a board layout, he is most willing to make small lot single sided boards at nominal cost. I used him not too long ago for a special board I needed and he made them for me. I think he is in Dundee, Illinois near Chicago. Lee, w0vt___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 (and R4C) Noise Blanker question
Do you all realize there was a web site a few years ago that showed you how to modify a TenTec noise blanker to work in a Drake R-4C? The thing was modified by Rob Frohne, KL7NA. I don't know if his e-mail address is still good but it was fro...@wwc.edu (E.F. Cross School of Engineering). Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Jim Pruitt To: DrakeList Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 4:34 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 (and R4C) Noise Blanker question Garey, I had tried a few times to contact Martin Sole, HS0ZED about his noise blanker for the R4C on his web page at http://www.qsl.net/hs0zed/drake/r4cnb.html but so far have never been able to get in touch with him or at least get a reply but he apparently had pc boards for the R4C noise blanker at one time. I do not know how much that helps with the 34PNB Blanker but if they are the same then it might be one avenue to get or make replacements. He does have a picture of his pc board at http://www.qsl.net/hs0zed/drake/r4cnb.html and http://www.qsl.net/hs0zed/drake/R4CNB1b.jpg and http://www.qsl.net/hs0zed/drake/R4CNB1a.jpg . Martin used to hang out on this reflector and may still be here. Thank you. Jim Pruitt >>> From: Garey Barrell To: , Drakelist Date: 10/7/2009 7:42 PM Subject:Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question I have a copy of the 34-PNB manual on my CD. There is also a hi-res color photo of the 34-PNB board (both sides) with the transistors id'd and a table of voltages, along. The 34-NB manual has the circuit and Drake's photo of the component side and installation procedure in a TR-4. The circuit is the same in all of them, and the basic circuit topology is the same all the way back to the 9-NB. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Ron wrote: > Pete, > I gave Garey a copy of the 34NB kit that Drake sold for wired install to the TR3 and early TR4s. I have the electronic copy somewhere, and I think Garey has it on his CDs, but am not sure. I seem to remember that it had a picture of the PC board, so it might be fairly easy to fabricate. About the only hard part would be any toroids. Seems like it has 2 or 3 of them. I could guess resonate at the IF freq, but not really sure. > > If you are serious, I will try to look up the electronic doc and get it to you. > > 73, > Ron WD8SBB > > --- On Tue, 10/6/09, RadiosRUs wrote: > > >> From: RadiosRUs >> Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question >> To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net >> Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 9:38 PM >> >> >> This may have been covered before; but ... has >> anyone ever hand built a >> noise blanker using the Drake schematic and installed it in >> a TR-4? >> >> Pete N6QW -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L7 linear 10 m mod question
I did the mod to my first L-7 after I bought it new. 1. You remove a set stop screw on the bandswitch so it can go into the 10 meter slot position. 2. You remove a coax assembly which is made up of two pieces of coax and a PC board in between the two. (It filtered out any 11 meter RF that was feed into it. This removed assy went between the coax input so-239 connector and the grid input coils. You then but in a new piece of coax between the input coax jack and the input coils. It did not contain the 11 meter trap. 3. You then changed out a silver mica cap on the 15 m coil to I think a smaller size. You then used the 15 meter input coil for both 10 meters and 15 meters. The coil was then peaked between the two bands so the tubes so grid current on both bands. This is what I remeber I did to make the mod. - Original Message - From: k9...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: [Drakelist] L7 linear 10 m mod question Had a question about the L7 with 10 meter coverage, either the export version or the modified/upgraded version. The 10 m coverage is achieved by adding a couple of 68 pf capacitors, aligning an input coil, etc. Does anybody know the theory or philosophy behind this design? Electrically, the same thing can be achieved by using just a single 68 pf cap on the S1A input switch, the side going to the RF input, and then short the 10 m and 15 meter contacts together. The output side of the input pi-network then functions the same as if two caps were installed, one for 10 m, and one for 15m. There is no need to put the other 68 pf cap near coil L4. Since companies try to save pennies on parts, plus labor costs, I was wondering why Drake went to the extra trouble to use this design. I'm sure there is a reason and, inquiring minds want to know... Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper plating for Drake Gear
Here is the problem as I see it. The sub base metal on the chassis has to be pit free before any plating is going to restore the copper finish on a Drake chassis. Whenever I have seen the copper in bad shape on a Drake Chassis, the steel chassis has also been pitted. In my mind, if you plate over a pitted steel chassis, you are still going to have a bad looking chassis. Short of stripping the whole chassis down with no parts on it, (which is almost impossible and not worth the effort), before plating, I don't think any plating restoration will look good. I know when you have an old car bumper rechromed for a classic car, the plater removes the old chrome and the sub plating, as chrome can't be directly plated to steel. Then the entire bumper is buffed smooth before the replating process takes place. My guess is this rejuvinator won't do much for a pitted Drake Chassis. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Ted Schurter" To: Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 1:51 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Copper plating for Drake Gear Hello fellow Drake users: Like many other users of Drake equipment, the copper plating on my R4- B, T4X-B, etc. is less than perfect. I recently stumbled across a web site which makes me wonder about the possibilities of correcting some of the problem areas. This is a do-it-yourself plating scheme, from a company called Caswell Plating. I guess my question is... could this technique be used to rejuvenate the copper plating on Drake chassis? Any comments from chemists or someone knowledgeable about plating will be welcome. The web site is listed below http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/plugnplate.htm TNX and 73, Ted WB2NVK tedschur...@verizon.net ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Great R4B questions
No, it won't start a car but it will start a solid state answering machine or trip a wired burgler alarm. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Chuck Grandgent To: drake Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 3:17 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Great R4B questions There's an R4B currently on the e-place, with the following wonderful question to the seller: Q: Is this Drake amplifier Stereo or Mono and will it remote start a car with some buttons ?Jun-22-09 A: I'm sure this don't have anything to do with starting a car, It a ham radio RECEIVER, Like a shortwave radio, Thinks for asking nyuk, nyuk, nyuk Chuck, K1OM -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Gear Differences
Paul: I bought one of the first C line transmitters and recievers when they first came out. They had the plastic gears. I ruined the receivers PTO gearing twice before I learned not to 'BANG" the dial against the dial stops on each end. Before obtaining my C line I had a TR-4 with metal gears and I "BANGED" the dial on it's end stops all the time. No problem. But with the plastic gears, you could ruin them in a day. I learned very quickly, you never do this with the plastic gearing. It took 3 PTO changes before I got smart to all this. Also, you never oil the plastic gears as the oil can and will make the gears swell and bind up. I found that if you don't put oil/grease on the plastic gears and don't bang the dial on it's end stops the plastic gears will last and not give any problems. You don't have to worry about this with metal gearing. Plastic gearing is fine if you don't abuse them or buy a radio that had been abused. Longivity has to do with how they were treated and not how much operating time is on them. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Paul Christensen To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 7:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Gear Differences Anyone have any data relating to PTO gear longevity in the R-4C when comparing Nylon with metal geared versions? I have two R-4Cs, one is S/N 25K with Nylon gears, the other is 28K with a combination of metal and Nylon. The Nylon geared unit has almost no operating time but its back-lash mechanism appears a bit inferior to that of the metal/Nylon unit. On the other hand, overall tuning feel and rotational noise is less with the metal/Nylon unit. Paul, W9AC -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem
Sorry, didn't read your second paragraph. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Bob Fish" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem Hi Guys, My T-4XC has stopped transmitting. I have normal idle current. But not much more. If I turn the gain way up I can get a barely perceptible dip in plate current.90 or 100 ma. So I turned the bias voltage all the way down and put it in tune very briefly to see if the finals were at least functional. I get about 260ma when I do that. I presume this means they still work? It looks like I have lost drive somewhere. I checked the carrier oscillator and it is up and running, I can see it with a scope and a freq counter. However, I don't see my 5.645 Mhz at the plate of V2 (IF amp). I did a voltage check and all of the voltages on V2 look normal. Then I did a resistance check on V2. I found everything normal except the cathode measures 5.5k to ground. The book says it should measure infinite. Is this potentially my problem or is this non critical. I thought I would see if you guys think I am on the right track before I start lifting one leg of every cap in that circuit. Thanks, Bob K6GGO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem
My guess is the bias supply caps are probably bad and you are getting AC on the bias which does not show up on the meter. (The peak AC volts are masking your DC set point). At least replace the bias electrolytics, but why not just put in an AC-4R board with all new parts including all the electrolytics. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Bob Fish" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem Hi Guys, My T-4XC has stopped transmitting. I have normal idle current. But not much more. If I turn the gain way up I can get a barely perceptible dip in plate current.90 or 100 ma. So I turned the bias voltage all the way down and put it in tune very briefly to see if the finals were at least functional. I get about 260ma when I do that. I presume this means they still work? It looks like I have lost drive somewhere. I checked the carrier oscillator and it is up and running, I can see it with a scope and a freq counter. However, I don't see my 5.645 Mhz at the plate of V2 (IF amp). I did a voltage check and all of the voltages on V2 look normal. Then I did a resistance check on V2. I found everything normal except the cathode measures 5.5k to ground. The book says it should measure infinite. Is this potentially my problem or is this non critical. I thought I would see if you guys think I am on the right track before I start lifting one leg of every cap in that circuit. Thanks, Bob K6GGO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fried T-4XC MEASURE THE PI-CHOKES !!!!!!
Sorry to hear this, Bob. That is a wierd situation. It is an obvious melt down somewhere in the high voltage chain in the radio from the prolonged keydown situation. The finals are gone, we know that. Do you have another AC-4 power supply? It might be possible the the power transformer now has some kind of short to one of the other windings from the prolonged high current draw. Another power supply could tell you if this is where the problem resides. Of course those cathode resistors and screen resistors should match up. You need to fix this. I don't know if this would keep from neutralizing the rig. One more thing! A long time ago I had a new L-4B. Within weeks of ownership one of the 3-500Z tubes shorted out. Since I just bought the amp, I called Drake. They told me to make sure I replaced the small pi choke under the tube socket of the tube that went bad. i told Drake it looked good. They told me it is bad. They melt down internally from the excess current draw. They said they look good from the outside but I should trust them and replace it. So I did this and then unwound the old pi-choke. Sure enough, internally things got melted together. The choke looked good but was bad. You might check the chokes with an inductance meter. I would not be surprised to find out you melted them internally and they are bad. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] I Fried my T-4XC
Most likely you did not head warnings about rebuilding AC-4 power supplies. When the old bias supply goes out, and it will, the final tubes will draw unlimited current and you have melt down. Most likely this is what happened to you. You need to rebuild the AC-4. I'd use The Heathkit Shops replacement board AC-4R. Your original final tubes are shot. Don't try any new tubes until you rebuild the AC-4 power supply. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Robert Ladden" To: Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 9:23 PM Subject: [Drakelist] I Fried my T-4XC I had an unfortunate accident. I was using my T-4XC in CW. I finished but left it in CW mode. I was doing something else in the basement (where the shack is) when I heard a fizzle. I saw the T-4XC turn off. I ran to it and saw the 6JB6's fade from orange. The keyer did something bad, and I was not paying attention (never leave it in CW mode). Not good, but I have several spare 6JB6's. The fuse in the AC-4 blew. I replace the fuse and the 6JB6's and it powers up again. I try to neutralize the finals on 10m but get little output and high current. Not good. I try on 40m and it does tune, but at .4 on the meter I get low output. Trying the load control gets full output, but pegs the current meter and I cannot dip the plate. I quickly turn it off. Cathode resistors test inline at 16 and 30 Ohms. Needs replacing, but probably not the source of this problem. Tuning is too weird. There is no obvious burns on the chokes or anywhere else, but I fear for the bandswitch back there. Hard to get a good look. Is there more I can check? Or is it time for an expert surgeon? 73, Bob WW3QB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C resistor identification help
It's 27 ohms (RED-VIOLET-BLACK). Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Loren McCullough" To: "drakelist" Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 7:57 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4C resistor identification help I just had a resistor on the relay board burn out. According to the Board picture (from K4OAH) it is R192 from what is left of this resistor (and the pictured on the board) it appears to be a 27 Ohm resistor (red-violet-black), but according to the schematic it is a .27 Ohm resistor (red-violet-silver?). It took me awhile to find it on the schematic, this is the second component out of the power supply receptacle pin 11. Is 27 Ohms the correct value? My TR-4C is Ser.# 39366. Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Special tubes for special rigs!
So what were your reports before you put in the black plate tubes? Maybe black beauty caps will give EQ reports for you. Go for it! Personally I use grey plate tubes and people tell me my audio sounds like "sawdust through a tin horn"! It doesn't get better then that! Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: leecra...@aol.com To: k...@merschrod.net ; k4...@mindspring.com ; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 12:33 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Special tubes for special rigs! Some time ago, I switched out all of the tubes in my TR-4CW to "black plate" tubes to make sure that the tubes are color coordinated to the Drake's black case. Since then, I've got consistent "GQ" signal reports! 73 Lee WB6SSW --- No trees were harmed in sending this email, but a whole lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. ** Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood0001) -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] No signal on R-4C after work on PTO
Did you turn on the receiver before you hooked up the three PTO wires? As I remember, there is a tantalum cap that can BLOW if the PTO wires are not hooked up. As I remember the low voltage for the PTO derives from a high voltage point and if you have "no load', the dropping resistor doesn't drop the voltage and the low voltage cap then goes BANG. If the cap goes and shorts out due to excessive voltage, the dropping resistor could burn up from the cap blowing up. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: George Roberts To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 7:11 PM Subject: [Drakelist] No signal on R-4C after work on PTO Dear List, I've been reading the mail in this site for a long time, with much appreciation for the knowledge and willingness you guys have to share it with the folks. This is my first input and question: No signal after cleaning PTO Drive on Drake R-4C as per instructions on the K4OAH site. I first cleaned bearing and shaft on preselector. Cleaned switches and tube sockets and pins. Tested tubes with my Jackson Dynanic 648S Tube Tester. Had to disconnect 3 wires (red, brown and white) on PTO to work on drive. Re-connecting PTO wires to PWB #2, the white went to the pin next to the ground lug, the Brown to the pin just above the white, and the Red to the right of the Brown. After putting it all together, I get noise that I can peak ABNORMALLY with preselector as follows: BandSwitch Slugs 1.5-3.0Can't peak 3.56/64" 7.01/32" 14Can't peak, louder with slugs at bottom 21Can't peak 28.5 Can't peak but no signal. . Connecting freq counter to INJ jack gives no reading. Connecting to shielded cable leaving PCB 2 after adjusting disks, reading at 500 is steady 4994.8 Khz. Reading at 0020 (can not go lower because the slug is at its outer limit) is an erratic 1395-1540 Khz. Does any of this make sense? Note: I did not "adjust" any trimmers! Serial number is 20620 and uses 6HS6 instead of 6EJ7 in premixer and 1st mixer. My schematic shows 6EJ7's. Wondering if the pinouts are the same? My test gear consists of a 20 Mhz scope, Precision E200D RF Signal Generator, Victor VC 3165 frequency counter, a DMM and VTVM. I don't have much successful experience trouble shooting, so I'm asking the esteemed panel on this Drake website if there is any hope for my R-4C. Thanks much and best 73. George K2HRS -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Mounting Fans
Emil: All kidding aside, your idea of using magnets is a really great idea. I'll use your idea to good advantage with my Drake equipment. I've got a lot of it and your idea will allow me to use ONE FAN on all my Drakes, depending on which one is on the operating table to be put into use. Thanks. 73, Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "w9nm" To: Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 4:55 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Mounting Fans I haven't been on the list very long, and I don't know if this has been covered before: I used this method for mounting three fans on the radiator for my computer. No physical changes to my TR-4CW/RIT, and easy removal for filter cleaning , I super-glued a couple of rare earth magnets to my fan. The magnets shown are larger in diameter than necessary... but I didn't have any smaller on hand. Also, RTV to mount the fan speed control. As soon as the smaller magnets (allow more flexibility in positioning) arrive I will replace the large dia magnets. The following are links to pictures posted on Photobucket.com: http://tinyurl.com/7rc3cb http://tinyurl.com/a6d2gp http://tinyurl.com/6sd48d Emil W9NM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Mounting Fans
Yes, but do the rare earth magnets suck your 40 meter signal into the fan and then expel it out on 20 meters? Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "w9nm" To: Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 4:55 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Mounting Fans I haven't been on the list very long, and I don't know if this has been covered before: I used this method for mounting three fans on the radiator for my computer. No physical changes to my TR-4CW/RIT, and easy removal for filter cleaning , I super-glued a couple of rare earth magnets to my fan. The magnets shown are larger in diameter than necessary... but I didn't have any smaller on hand. Also, RTV to mount the fan speed control. As soon as the smaller magnets (allow more flexibility in positioning) arrive I will replace the large dia magnets. The following are links to pictures posted on Photobucket.com: http://tinyurl.com/7rc3cb http://tinyurl.com/a6d2gp http://tinyurl.com/6sd48d Emil W9NM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund
To the RACK, I say! Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 8:59 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund I am shocked, SHOCKED I say, to hear that you spend time with Hammarlund equipment :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Al Parker wrote: Hi Bill, 2 good ones are: www.hammarlund.info & www.boatanchors.org Take a look at the "H-Files" on the first one, you should see the original ads, maybe more. The same sight might have manuals for each, if not, let me know. You could also find them on http://bama.sbc.edu/ . (I love my Drakes, and my Hammarlunds) 73, Al, W8UT New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info "there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Ratty, to Mole - Original Message - From: "billjhs" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:46 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Hammarlund Sorry guys, I know this doesn't have anything to do with Drakes (I love my r4/t4x) but does anyone know of good Hammarlund websites. I acquired an hq 100 and 110, I would like to get more info on them.. 73 Bill Wa2jhs ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] plug in relay for TR-4C
The relay in my TR-4C is indeed has a 2.5K coil but the resistor in series with the coil is 27 ohms @1/2 watt. It is R192. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] t4x case type
Smooth. The Polane paint jobs came later, I think it started with the C line. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: Carey Lockhart To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:57 PM Subject: [Drakelist] t4x case type hi gang and merry christmas does the t-4x have the splatter paint job or a smooth paint on the case? Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT kc5...@gmail.com www.kc5gtt.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] plug in relay for TR3
The relay used in some Drakes rigs including some TR-4s and the TR-4C is Mouser Part Nbr 655-R10-E1Y4-V2.5KIt is a Potter Brumfield R10-E1Y4-V2.5K I bought one a few days ago and it cost $16.68. This is a 2.5K relay. Some Drakes used a 15K relay but they can be interchanged if a resistor is changed. I don't know what conversion relay you have in there. Most likely it is a 15K unit. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "John King" To: Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 2:16 PM Subject: [Drakelist] plug in relay for TR3 My TR 3 has been converted to the plug in type relay. Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of the relay, its' part number, where I can get it and the price? Thanks and 73, John, K5PGW ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] REALLY DIFFERENT TR3
This is for reference: I am working on restoring a stripped TR-4C. One thing wrong with it is the filter cap needs replacing (the 4 section can electrolytic in my case. I think earlier ones had a 3 section can electrolytic). My can electrolytic is definately bad. That resistor you are talking about in my radio is cracked and broken in two and it is a 47 ohm resistor. It is called R-163 in a TR-4C. I think it got ruined when the can electrolytic went bad. Maybe your resistor is getting hot due to a bad can electrolytic. When I got my radio the relay was also missing and the 27 ohm resistor in series with the relay coil was also burned up and broken in two. (My radio uses a different relay then yours). I don't know if this also happened when the can capacitor went bad. Now here is some info for maybe your radio. Looking at an earlier TR-4 manual, not a TR-3 manual, I see the resistor is marked R-111 and is a 3.3k resistor. I'm talking about the resistor you are having trouble with going between the two boards. Again, maybe your electrolytic is bad and causing your replacement 3.3k resistor to get hot. I bought the CD service information disc for the TR-4 and TR-4C radios from K4OAH. It saves me a lot of time finding the parts on the radio. The schematics and color shots of all the sections of the radio are of very high resolution. Also, I purchased a fresh replacement can electrolytic from Hayseed Hamfest Co. www.hayseedhamfest.comIt is "drop in", fresh, newly made, great construction and the voltage ratings of each section are slightly better then those of the original cap. Hope this helps. Lee, w0vt Houston, TX My radio came - Original Message - From: "John King" To: Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:30 AM Subject: [Drakelist] REALLY DIFFERENT TR3 Thanks to some very nice guys on this list, who have been helpful to me, I have determined that I have a WEIRD Drake TR 3. My TR 3 is Serial # 6564 and since there were various versions, I now know that the two boards between tube sockets V 18 and V 19 and the audio transformer are wired differently than those two TR3s below #10,000 owned by my friends Doyle and Larry. When I hook up the 3.3K resistor to the terminals used in their TR 3s I get hot resistors and SMOKE When I put the 3.3k resistor between the top left terminal on the "forward" of the two boards and the top right terminal of the "next board back" from the front the receiver works albeit it is NOT very "hot" and the crystal calibrator reads only about S5 on the S meter. NO SMOKE when resistor is mounted between the two boards in that manner. Does anyone have a TR 3 which has the 3.3k resistor mounted between the two boards at the top terminals of each??? MY schematic diagram is almost unreadable and the part designations and values are almost unreadable. In addition, my manual and schematic did not come with the TR 3 I have. I love Drakes, but sometimes I think each was wired as if it was a prototype wired and assembled by retarded CHIMPS. Anyone have any suggestions for trouble shooting this WEIRD conglomeration without the specific schematic and manual for this run of TR3s. Speaking of "runs" this thing gives me the runs!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to ALL!!! 73, John, K5PGW ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C (Need 43.6 Mhz and 42.5 Mhz Crystals)
Well now that I have bought this "In Need" TR-4C, I need some parts. I ordered some tubes I didn't have on hand plus a new 4 section can electrolytic made for this radio from Hayseed Hamfest today. (I had purchased some of Tom's caps for my Heath DX-60A and DX-60B and liked them very much. They were new fresh electrolytics in the proper size can with slightly increased cap values and voltage rating). I had a spare Drake knob to replace the missing one on the radio. I'll order a new relay to replace the missing one from Mouser. I'll probably replace the 15 ohm 1 watt resistors under the finals and the 68 ohm 1/2 watt ones under there too. It's been my experience the heat causes these resistors to "drift". I have a resistor to replace the burned out one in series with the relay coil. I like to use Ohmite OX and OY resistors (one and two watt) for the 15 ohm and 68 ohm replacement resistors under the finals. I'm in need of at least two Drake crystals. They are 43.6 Mhz and 42.5 Mhz, as they are missing in the radio. I have the other three (43.0 Mhz, 35.5 Mhz, and 21.5 Mhz crystals). If anyone has these two crystals as "extra", I would be interested in buying them from you. Or I'd even buy all 5 crystals if you have them. (It's been my experience some Drake crystals "drift" off of their value and you can't "zero" them in when going from band to band. So, a spare or two would be nice. I have not tested my three to find out if they are within a resonable distance from their stated frequency. I think I can manage all else for now, but the 43.6 Mhz and 42.5 Mhz crystals need to found. One last thing. If anyone has a MS-4 speaker and or a AC-4 power supply for sale, I'd be interested in them. My plan is to re-build the power supply once found with The Heathkit Shop's replacement AC-4R power supply board. I have used one before in another AC-4 and the board and finished "upgrade" look beautiful and work great. I'm using it right now on my TR-4. Consequently, the shape of the "present electrolytics in an available AC-4 does not interest me. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Let me know if you have anything available I might be able to use for this project. 73, Lee, w0vt Houston, TX ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C
Well, I never learn. I saw a TR-4C with a nice front panel, no cabinet screws, missing one small knob, no relay, burned out 1/2 watt resistor on relay board, missing 7 small tubes, missing two crystals, and no pilot lamps just loose lamp sockets. I also was told the multi section can electrolytic on the radio is bad. Lots of dirt and dust but no corrosion. No idea if it needs more work besides cleaning, lubricating, and alignment. Who know what shape the finals are in. BUT, I had to have it. It was sitting on my local ham dealer's work bench for years. (Oh, I'm sure the blue dial lenses are washed out too). It has no noise blanker. I picked it up for a fair price if you figure the parts value. If you figure what I have to put into it, maybe $100 if I have no unexpected suprises without counting my labor, I figure I could maybe sell it working for around $50 under my actual parts cost. That is, if the finals still work and the filters are good. Otherwise it could swallow up another $200 to $250. What a deal. It had to be rescued. Was I wrong? Was I bad? Whats the matter with me? Now I need to buy a MS-4 and AC-4 and then rebuild the AC-4 too! I must be sick! Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Mic Jack
Yes, others have done it, (1/4 inch jack), and when I acquired the radios, I put the original size jack back into the radio. The smaller size plugs are so easy to find/buy as they are used in aircraft, so I can't understand why someone would screw up a vintage radio like this with such a modification. (Why not go to the hardware store and buy/install a wall outlet jack on the radio as a mic jack as they are really easy to obtain). A can opener will "widen the hole for you". While one is at it, paint it "pink too". That will give it a really nice "touch". Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [drakelist] FS-4 --$$$$
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Not true about the cost of Beppe's unit vs Dan's unit. Beppe said they are working on a NEW DFS-4 that used a chip producing NO spurs, and the new unit would be less expensive then thier present DDS-4. (See below). Plus it has a neat cabinet. If you figure the cost of a box plus silk screening and you don't have to buy a power supply or any knobs or hardware plus the unit includes a display, I would say the unit easily could sell for more then $130 and have to sell for more then $130.. Also, Beppe's unit is built. So far there is no mention if the $130 unit is a kit where you have to build the unit or if it is a pre stuffed tested board ready to mount in a cabinet. Also how does it compare to Beppe's unit on spurs?. Beppe claims his unit has no spurs at all. That would be impressive. Beppe has given us some real facts regarding his unit. I find that relevant. Talking about what colored LEDs are going to be on a board and how many there are tells me very little about the unit. (It also tells me something about the producer). Maybe the $130 unit will be a good deal, but from what I have heard to date, you could not determine much from what was given the group. It doesn't sound like much engineering has been done on the unit if any to date from my prospective. So how do you come up with $130 before the design is firm? (The truth is, you can't). I would consider this project pie in the sky until I knew more about what actually if ever will be offered. I realize some of you guys take exception with me. So be it. I learned a long time ago, if something seems too good to be true, it probably is too good to be true. I am impressed with Beppe's unit because, they already have one product for sale, they are now developing another one at lower cost, and he has given us some real facts about his unit. Their design is not as yet firm and consequently they have not as yet determined the cost but their target is to lower it from the DDS-4 price. This is good engineering and marketing practice. Also, Beppe's unit will be complete. I feel a complete unit with no spurs is worth more then $130 and feel such a unit will cost the manufacturer more then $130 to produce. So, I'll be willing to pay more then $130 for his new DFS-4. (Let's see how much you have in a $130 unit after you add all the extra stuff to make it work and look good). Also, will this unit really be offered for $130 or will the price slide and float? Sure, I would like a Rolls Royce for $20,000 but I realize you can't have something like that for this price. If the $130 unit turns out to be a real product, great! But to finish it off it is surley going to cost more then $130. Time will tell which race horse will deliver. For now, based on what has been told to me, I'm betting on Beppe's unit to be a winner. The cost of Drake twins costing less then a Wood Box unit? Well are you talking about 1975 dollars or 2005 dollars? Are we talking about a DDS-4 or a DFS-4? (Maybe the apples and the oranges are getting mixed up here). My advice to myself is: don't buy based on price, buy based on value. Take it or leave it. I don't care. It will be interesting see what the future holds and what is developed by these two groups and see who's intuitive reasoning was correct about these two groups in the final analysis. Lee, w0vt "I'm Beppe IK3VIG, member of WoodBoxRadio Team maker of DDS-4." "Reading discussion about the "new" FS-4 generator, we are working on a simplified and less expensive DDS-4, called DFS-4.?" > > PWells <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > Dan Cotsirilos mentioned two days ago that he knew of an engineer > wanting to produce a FS-4 clone. It received mixted reactions and then > Beppe IK3VIG one of the DDs-4 came up and mentioned his synthesizer. > Curiouly only positve comments were posted about the Italian product. > Great so far . But one thing must be mentioned I am interested in Dans's > synthesizer because its going to cost about $130 while the Italian > component costs $475 + $58 shipping!! That's $533..double what I > payed for my Drake twins!! > Peter VE2FAR -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4 - my DFS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Now here is some real data to go on! Looks great. Would probably be very interested in purchasing two of them when available after field trial.. Lee w0vt > > Hello group, > > > > I'm Beppe IK3VIG, member of WoodBoxRadio Team maker of DDS-4. > > > > Reading discussion about the "new" FS-4 generator, we are working on > > a simplified and less expensive DDS-4, called DFS-4. > > > > This Digital Frequency Synthesizer is a Xtal frequency generator like the > > great FS-4, > > using spures free AD9951 DDS chip. with these features: > > > > Pre- programmed IF shift: 5.645.000 Hz > > Xtal frequency generator from 1.5 to 30.0 Mhz in fixed 500 Khz. STEP. > > Tuning with UP / DOWN keys > > LCD 1 x 16 car. display for Xtal frequency readout and BAND indication. > > Adjustable level output from 0.0 to 1.8 V pep > > Black metal enclosure mm. 180 x 55 x 20 with printed front panel in DRAKE > > style. > > > > this is a preliminary DFS-4 picture/idea > > www.cqdx.it/woodbox/dfs4/dfs4.jpg > > > > > > We appreciate any comments and suggestion about DFS-4. > > > > Thanks for your attention and best regards. > > > > Beppe IK3VIG > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > On Behalf of Highq <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net > > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in > body > > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > > Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net > > Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ > > -- > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/05 > > > > > > -- > On Behalf of "Allen \(Marty\) Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net > Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ > -- -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- One more thing! What kind of readout is on this thing? LED display?, LCD display? No display? How do you tell what frequency you are on? Using a push button for changing frequency would require some kind of readout. If rotary detent switches were used you could at least look at the numbers on a knob. Not possible with push buttons as you describe. Or, is the readout part of the "etc" provided by the purchaser? Maybe you have a voice annunciator in mind! Me thinks I shall wait for more info and unit testing before I would take this project seriously In all seriousness, you really have to do better then this to get any real serious feedback. As described, this project is a Pig in a Poke!. I've been having fun with this. It's OK to say you are going to design something and give no real info but to ask a group for the amount of serious interest based on this given description with glaring and obvious flaws and/or mistakes is a waste of everyone's time and energy.. (Your's included). There has been no science or logic in the description. I hope you really meant to say 500hz steps rather then 500 khz steps as you say in your corrected message. 500 hz is truly not even enough resolution.. 100 hz is really what is needed. Also the readout methode is a VERY IMPORTANT part of all this .Give some good data and you will get some good answers and real help from knowledgeable people.. Right now, you say the unit has "push button" switching and doesn't use rotory switches. Thus you would need a readout of some kind or annunciator or the unit would be useless. With many hams and non hams today not knowing morse code, the annunciator would have to be in voice rather then in cw. With readout I don't see how you could do it on $130. You could do it with rotary switches for that amount of money. I have a feeling none of the above has been thought through in its design.. Lee, w0vt . > > "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > First of all "hosing" was a typo I meant "housing". 12 volts would also be > needed also. Second 3 LED's was a brief description of the device. The item > will be clean. It is being designed by a ex-Collins RF engineer who can > build communications receivers from scratch so all worries of poor design > are not necessary. > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- One more thing! What kind of readout is on this thing? LED display?, LCD display? No display? How do you tell what frequency you are on? Using a push button for changing frequency would require some kind of readout. If rotary detent switches were used you could at least look at the numbers on a knob. Not possible with push buttons as you describe. Or, is the readout part of the "etc" provided by the purchaser? Maybe you have a voice annunciator in mind! Me thinks I shall wait for more info and unit testing before I would take this project seriously In all seriousness, you really have to do better then this to get any real serious feedback. As described, this project is a Pig in a Poke!. I've been having fun with this. It's OK to say you are going to design something and give no real info but to ask a group for the amount of serious interest based on this given description with glaring and obvious flaws and/or mistakes is a waste of everyone's time and energy.. (Your's included). There has been no science or logic in the description. I hope you really meant to say 500hz steps rather then 500 khz steps as you say in your corrected message. 500 hz is truly not even enough resolution.. 100 hz is really what is needed. Also the readout methode is a VERY IMPORTANT part of all this .Give some good data and you will get some good answers and real help from knowledgeable people.. Right now, you say the unit has "push button" switching and doesn't use rotory switches. Thus you would need a readout of some kind or annunciator or the unit would be useless. With many hams and non hams today not knowing morse code, the annunciator would have to be in voice rather then in cw. With readout I don't see how you could do it on $130. You could do it with rotary switches for that amount of money. I have a feeling none of the above has been thought through in its design.. Lee, w0vt . > > "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > First of all "hosing" was a typo I meant "housing". 12 volts would also be > needed also. Second 3 LED's was a brief description of the device. The item > will be clean. It is being designed by a ex-Collins RF engineer who can > build communications receivers from scratch so all worries of poor design > are not necessary. > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I would say any FS-4 clone should provide steps of 100hz. (.1 Khz). Anything less then this would be a drawback and design flaw. 500 khz step spacing as described is rediculous and useless. Lee, w0vt PS: What are the LED colors? > > "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > First of all "hosing" was a typo I meant "housing". 12 volts would also be > needed also. Second 3 LED's was a brief description of the device. The item > will be clean. It is being designed by a ex-Collins RF engineer who can > build communications receivers from scratch so all worries of poor design > are not necessary. > > These will be available for both the 4 line and the SPR-4. It will consist > of 2 up down buttons that change in 500 khz steps. So I would like to know > what kind of interest this group would have in a correctly designed unit? > Dan > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I am not interested. A 500 khz step unit would be useless for ham use.. I, as most hams would require as a maximum, a 500 hz step design.. Lee Bahr, w0vt ---> > "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > First of all "hosing" was a typo I meant "housing". 12 volts would also be > needed also. Second 3 LED's was a brief description of the device. The item > will be clean. It is being designed by a ex-Collins RF engineer who can > build communications receivers from scratch so all worries of poor design > are not necessary. > > These will be available for both the 4 line and the SPR-4. It will consist > of 2 up down buttons that change in 500 khz steps. So I would like to know > what kind of interest this group would have in a correctly designed unit? > Dan > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- How pure is the output signal? Have you run tests to see if the unit has birdies? If it has birdies, where are they? Lee, w0vt > drakelist gang > > -- > > A friend of mine is thinking about manufacturing a freq generator that > > will duplicate the FS-4 output. It will be 3 LED's on a circuit board > > and the user will provide the hosing etc. It will sell for about $130. > > would anyone here be interested in one? Dan ---------- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I read the post again and it says we need to provide the 'hosing" Does this thing use a tube and consequently need air cooling from an external blower? I would think stability would be a problem here. How loud is the blower in db? Also, I am a little nervous about providing the "etc". Does this mean I have to perfect the circuit to make it work? Lee, w0vt -- > > A friend of mine is thinking about manufacturing a freq generator that > > will duplicate the FS-4 output. It will be 3 LED's on a circuit board > > and the user will provide the hosing etc. It will sell for about $130. > > would anyone here be interested in one? Dan ------ On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] FS-4
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- How do 3 LEDs and a board duplicate a FS-4? How clean is the signal? If it is dirty I would not be interested. If it is clean I maybe would be interested. How does this thing operate? How do you change frequency? What is the size of the board? What kind of power does it run on? Where does the power come from? Does "your friend" include the power supply? Is the board built and tested or do you have to build it? If I have to build it what are the sizes of the parts? (Do I have to solder SMT parts?) What kind of plans will he provide? Why doesn't your friend poll the group directly? What kind of warranty is provided? Seems like he is getting off to a bad start without a better more professional plan. You have alerted flags of doubt in my mind!. Lee, w0vt PS: Does anyone want to buy the Brooklyn Bridge? A friend of mine is thinking of selling it.. Anyone interested? - Original Message - From: "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 5:29 PM Subject: [drakelist] FS-4 > > "Dan Cotsirilos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > A friend of mine is thinking about manufacturing a freq generator that will > duplicate the FS-4 output. It will be 3 LED's on a circuit board and the > user will provide the hosing etc. It will sell for about $130. would anyone > here be interested in one? Dan > > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] R-4C gears nylon or metal?
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- What can wipe out the plastic gearing besides oiling and lubricating them is BANGING THE GEARS ON THEIR END STOPS! I'm talking about running the dial to the end of their travel rotation quickly while tuning across the band. You can do this all day long with metal geared radios but not those with plastic gears. I bought a new C-line when they first came out and the radios had plastic gearing. (I had been using a metal geared TR-4 up until this point in time and had been used to running and banging the dial up to it's end points while scanning the band.). I found out very quickly you could not do this with a radio with plastic gears. Within two months of purchase Drake had sent me 3 new geared PTOs as replacements. (The banging warped the gearing so they did not rotate smoothly and freely as when new). Once I changed my ways and did not bang against the end stops, my problems with plastic gears went away. Lee, w0vt ---------- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] Resistors in Plate Suppressor Chokes
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I would like to hear from those who ACTUALLY DID rebuild their plate suppressor chokes. We all know 2 watt carbon composition resistors are hard to find. We hear stories MAYBE carbon film is not the way to go because of inductance reasons. We hear metal film resistors may work. We hear you PROBABLY should use Ohmite OY ceramic carbon film resistors. (This makes a lot of sense to me). I sure would like to hear from those who ACTUALLY DID try carbon film, metal film, and of course, the logical choice Ohmite OY ceramic carbon film resistors to replace 2 watt 47 ohm to 120 ohm carbon composition resistors when rebuilding their plate suppressor chokes. Who has actually tested these newer resistors in their Drake and or Collins S-line equipment? Did you actually find carbon film did not work? Did you find ohmite OY to work as well as composition resistors for this application? Have you looked at the outcome with a spectrum analyzer for parasitics? The reason I ask is I am about to order a BUNCH of Ohmite OY resistors (200 of them) and they are not cheap. I want to replace a lot of my old chokes with new ones. (I don't trust the old coils Q any longer). Consequently, I'd like to buy the best alternative choice and get some first hand knowledge from those that have gone before me. (I'm not looking for theory but info from those that actually have tried these other resistors to find out what they experienced when they tried the different types). I am not interested in finding NOS carbon resistors for replacements. I'm guessing Ohmite OY is the way to go but I really don't want to guess. WHO REALLY HAS DONE THIS AND KNOWS? I sure would appreciate hearing from you. (I hope I have not offended anyone. It is just that I am not interested in hearing about finding some NOS resistors, or Wille has 5 carbon composition ones he would sell or why carbon film resistors probably would not work, or don't change them out as your's are probably OK, etc). Lee Bahr w0vt Houston ------ On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] L-7 10m Mod Help -- Thanks...
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I bought one of the first L7 amps made by Drake. I wrote them immediately after the purchase and asked how to open the amp for 10 meters. They sent me instructions on how to do it. I still own the amp but don't know where I placed those instructions.. I think the steps were as you describe. I had no problem installing the silver micas. As I remember I had to remove one or two mica caps and install one or two micas (change value). I do remember changing value on the 15 meter coil, removing the switch stop and the trap coil in the input line with a piece of coax and then repeaking the 15 meter input coil to work on both bands. Worked like a champ. I even rubbed on a 10 meter rub on decal that you cant tell from original on the front panel. That was close to 30 years ago and it still has not rubbed off as of today. The amp still works great.. So the first mod was put out by Drake and not someone from Hints and Kinks. I know this as a fact. Lee w0vt > > For those others who may be in a similar situation here are the things > I found out: > > (1) Your L-7 may or may not have the two additional 68pF silver mica > caps installed in the input circuitry. The original mod was described > by Jeem Newland WB8RXI in the Jan '81 QST Hints & Kinks and repeated in > the collected Hints & Kinks 11th edition. In his note Jeem tells us ---------- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] KA1FAN diode question
In my estimation, replacing 45 year old electrolytics and poor quality paper caps that are 45 years old is not doing shotgun or unreasonable restoration. On the contrary, it is the prudent way. You are not being stupid, lazy, or ignorant. You are being wise and smart. In fact you have engaged in a lot of extra work up front. I have found very few paper caps that old that don't leak. Plus electrolytic manufacturers back then never designed their caps to last this long. A leaky cap can introduce hum and if and when it shorts, it can take out a lot of components hard to come by today. (Look at a government issue R-390A receiver. It's power supply electrolytics were plug in)! I would rather take preventative measures and use modern fresh and better made components to protect my radio and the parts in it which are becoming ever so more scarce. Maybe sometimes you can repair a radio without doing the above, but you sure have not restored it and you probably have set in motion a ticking time bomb. Just have your bias supply fail by taking the cheap route and see what you think needed to be replaced as a precautionary measure once you have the failure. We are taking about 45 year old equipment here. You don't order parts from the factory anymore for these radios. They are not 5 years old. We are not working, "on the clock", and trying to figure out how to keep the repair charges down to $100 by putting in only $2.00 worth of parts into a repair that takes 5 minutes to accomplish. Protect your radio by replacing problematic parts before you have a catastrophic failure. These radios are already taking a pounding by having 123 volts pumped into their primaries rather then the designed 110 volts of yester year. Todays caps are made much better, have MUCH better tolerence, are smaller and cost very little. Diodes are made better with closer tolerances and of greater current capacity and give me much peace of mind knowing at least these parts won't let me down. Even installing a relay circuit to switch on power from the small on-off switch thus taking the load off the switch makes sence today. Try and find a new switch when this puppy fails! While we are at it, don't forget to replace all the out of tolerance resistors too! (Sometimes with a modern higher wattage unit of equal size). I just had my auto's timing belt replaced at 60,000 miles per the mfg maintenance schedule. The price was $400 but that was much cheaper then it would cost me to rebuild my engine if the old belt failed and I neglected to replace it as specified in my manual. Just think what the manufacturer would have in the manual if they knew I would be driving this car 45 years later to keep it running reliably! To each his own, but the chief engineer at radio station w0vt plans to keep on taking preventative measures with this station's vintage equipment. If you don't head this advice and your radio blows up, let me know, I'd be happy to buy your radio as a parts radio for a few pennies on the dollar. Lee Bahr, w0vt Houston Finally, a voice of REASON rising out of the "cap" and "recap" CRAP! I have replaced a lot of condensers and capacitors, in over 50 years of repairing, designing and building electronic equipment, but i've never replaced a "cap" in or "recapped" a radio If it is, replace it. IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT! We used to call wholesale replacement of components the "shotgun" servicing method, not looked upon as a favorable procedure by a technically competent person. 73 Bob, KC8YY
Fw: [drakelist] L4-PS R12 burned - .825 ohm 2W resistor on pin 6 of cable harness
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- One more thing to look at when the resistor blows! Many years ago I had a 3-500Z short and take out the resistor in my L4B. I called Drake and they told me to be sure and check the pi-wound RF chokes at the base of the tubes. They said they "COLLAPSE" when a tube shorts. I looked the chokes over and they looked good. I then replaced both tubes and the resistor and fired up the amp. POW! the resistor blew again. I called Drake and they told me to change the pi choke or chokes. They sent them to me and I replaced them and the resistor fuse again. I then fired up the amp with the new tubes and never had another problem. I called Drake about this and they told me my choke had "collapsed" internally when it drew too much current even though it looked perfectly fine on the outside with no burned wires or black carbon marks. Each of the wires on the choke looked good but they must have melted and shorted way down inside the pies. I measured the removed chokes from the amp with a ohmmeter and indeed one choke had less resistance then the other one. This was the choke in line with the bad tube. Apparently Drake saw a lot of pi RF chokes go bad when 3-500Zs shorted to tell me this before I even tried to repair my amp! One side note. The tube that shorted never did give me a short indication on an ohmmeter. It apparently had a saged element and would flash to ground only with high voltage applied to the tube. Lee, w0vt ------ On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] L4B vox relay connector
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Why don't you do the mod as Drake came up with for their customers many years ago and has been outlined on this reflector before? Once the mod is made, you can use regular audio line cords with a RCA plug attached on one end. All you have to do is remove the old 2-pin jack, replace it with a small rectangle piece of aluminum with a hole drilled into it to hold a RCA jack. Then using the same mounting screws as held the 2-pin jack, mount the new piece of aluminum. Then place a RCA jack into the newly installed aluminum plate. Wire up the new RCA jack. Now you can use a wire line cord fitted with a RCA plug to go between your amp and radio. No more problem and you have now done an authorized Drake factory mod. The job looks professional and the power supply looks like it came from the factory that way. I got this mod from Drake as a kit many years ago. Why would anyone have a problem with an authorized DRAKE kit/mod? Lee, w0vt Houston ------ On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] AC-4 Voltage Carrying Cable to Radio Needed
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Does anyone on here have an idea where I can get a replacement power cable for my AC-4 power supply? I'm talking about the cord carrying the filament, B+, bias, and switch voltages going to the Jones plug. (Not the AC power cord). If all fails, I guess I'll have to make up a harness out of discreet wires and bundle them together. I hate thinking of doing that. (The present cord is shot, cut, kaput)! I can't find a wire supplier with the appropriate number of wires and wire size needed to make one up and it appears places like Allied or Mouser either want to sell 100 or 1000 foot spools of control wire if I could even find the right cable. The Jones plug is in OK shape. I think the cable was probably made up special for Drake. (I can live with the wrong `wire colors. I can even live with more wires in the bundle doubled up to handle the filament current if required to do so. I just don't want so many extra wires that the cable diameter becomes to much larger then an original cable). Maybe someone has an AC-4 with a burned out power transformer and bad electrolytics I could purchase. I'd sure appreciate hearing from anyone with ideas on how to handle the problem. I'd prefer either a salvaged old cable from an AC-4, a new piece of power cable that would have the correct wires within it, or a burned up AC-4 supply with a good cable. What have i not thought of on this? Lee, w0vt Houston ---------- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] tectured paint experiment that worked!
How can this be? There is no gray on Drake cabinets? Lee, w0vt I first stripped away that disgusting sticky paint! I heated the cabinet in the oven at about 220F. I then applied brown primer spray. The primer boils on contact causing a rough surface. I let the primer dry. I then applied alternating very light coats of gray then black textured paint until I matched the shade of my other equipment. Unbelievable! it is almost a perfect match. Jim
Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax???? I want some
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Wellerrraaahhh, yes, it's a joke! (Maybe I should say it's all sold out)! Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "PWells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 7:51 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax I want some > > PWells <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang > -- > Well! > I had a lot of fun with the antenna wax thingny. Its a joke > ...isn' > t it? > 73's > VE2FAR > Peter > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really!
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I have no interest in the author or his contraption. This is just like the auto inventions that gets you 100 miles per gallon by just inserting the device in the fuel line! This reminds me of the TV antennas you plug into a wall outlet so you can pick up TV signals from all over the world. They out perform an outside antenna, you know! Maybe you should try one of these antennas on your highly modified Drake rig. I don't happen to subscribe to perpetual motion devices that defy logic and science. If you have an interest in this type stuff, go for it. A sucker is born every day. I'll put my time and money elsewhere. This guy is probably looking for suckers to "invest" in his new company. Once he has gone through the funds, the company will fold and he will come up with a "new" contraption and form a new company for new investors. I think this guy is nothing more then a tech at this school anyway. He probably figured out how to bilk our Federal government out of some research grant money. (Easy to do). No, I'll just keep using my unmodified Drake rigs with proven technology antennas. In the meantime, I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you. Sure wish we could talk about Drake here and leave this antenna for the Alchemy list. Lee, w0vt PS: I am selling Dr Vandegraph antenna wax for only $10.95 a jar, today only! (Normally $19.95) Put it on and then take it off! A little bit goes a long way! (Leave it on too long and you will have antenna lock). It will boost your signals a minimum of 10 db if applied properly. It is amazing what it can do for your station. Some of our customers tell us they no longer turn on the amp now that they are using Dr Vandegraph Antenna Wax. You will be glad you tried it. (patent pending) Please, one jar per customer only! - Original Message - From: "K7OV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Lee Bahr'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 11:06 PM Subject: RE: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! > If you think it a hoax or nonsense, why don't you write the University of > Rhode Island and ask about him and the exact patent name to search under? > > 73, > > Mike - K7OV > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really!
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- This guys BS has been circulating for a couple of years now. It's alchemy so don't hold your breath. It's best to listen to people who know something about what they are talking about. Remember, there is no free lunch and if it's too good to be true, it probably is too good to be true. (It all comes down to efficient matching, efficient loading coils and efficient vertical top hats and efficient grounds). (This is just another Cold Fusion type story. Too bad 73 isn't around anymore, This would be right up their alley). Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "richard radke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 7:48 AM Subject: [drakelist] Interesting > > http://www.uri.edu/news/releases/?id=2659 > ------ On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] Drake Synthesizer in QST
"Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I need help guys. Remember the QST article on building a synthesizer for Drake rigs that was in QST a couple of months ago? Some of you guys said a key part was no longer available. Now I have the ARRL Lab Manager asking me what is no longer available. (Read my post and his reply to me). Maybe he really can find the part for us or at least right now he appears to know nothing about a key part no longer being available. (The request for info is from Ed Hare, W1RFI. Please write him direct with a copy to me or send me the info and I will forward it on to him. (I complained and now he is looking for backup info). Some of you guys were trying to look for a source but I never heard if one was ever found. Lee Bahr w0vt > > Lee, > > If that were the case, then I do hope that everyone who was disappointed > would take a few minutes to let [EMAIL PROTECTED] know that parts were no longer > available. A construction article that can't be built should not be run in > QST. > > What parts were not available? Perhaps our Lab guys can help find a source. > > Ed Hare, W1RFI > ARRL Laboratory Manager > 225 Main St > Newington, CT 06013 > Tel: 860-594-0318 > Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Web: http://www.arrl.org/tis > Member: ASC C63 EMC Committee >Chairman: Subcommittee 5, Immunity >Chairman: Ad hoc BPL Working Group > Member: IEEE SCC-28 RF Safety > Member: Society of Automotive Engineers EMC/EMR Committee > Member: IEEE > -- On Behalf of "Lee Bahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Removing the RF Gain Lever R-4C
No, the lever is soldered to a collar and the collar is pushed over the shaft. Pull on the lever without cocking it and it along with its collar will pull off the shaft. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: "Gene McCalmont" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 3:30 PM Subject: [drakelist] Removing the RF Gain Lever R-4C > > Does anyone have a favorite method for removing the RF gain lever from the > Drake R-4C AF/RF gain assembly? I can see no other way to facilitate removal > of the front panel. I have searched the archives, the WB4HFN website and > other sources finding little information. Obviously, the connection appears > soldered to the RF gain pot. Surely, I'm not the only one to have asked this > question. > > My sincerest thanks up front! > Gene > > W5DDW > Gene McCalmont > 270 Oakridge Road > Argyle Texas 76226 > > -- > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ > -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] PTO
Permeable Tuned Oscillator. The vfo oscillator is tuned by moving a piece of ferrite in and out of a coil thus changing it's inductance. Lee Bahr, w0vt Houston - Original Message - From: "Thomas E Collis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 7:17 PM Subject: [drakelist] PTO > > Greetings, > > I am a vintage radio rookie and would like to know what the letters PTO > stand for. > > Thanks > Tom > -- > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ > -- > -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L4B tube
The solder has melted inside the pin. When cold or just looking at it all checks and looks well. JUST RESOLDER THE FILAMENT PINS! Lee, w0vt, Houston Subject: [drakelist] L4B tube > > In my L4B amplifier, the tubes burn nicely for a short time, then one of the > tubes' filaments go out. I removed the tubes and switched them. Same tube > goes out after abit. Took that tube out again, checked filament to filament > pins, "zero" on the Simpson 260. Also checked for a filament to grid short, > (tapping tube didn't change reading) and that reading was "infinity". So the > tube is OK, until it heats up. The solder blob on the pin bottoms are OK. > > I think the filaments are getting HOT while I'm transmitting, and possibly a > 'fracture' in the filament somewhere, getting hot, expands, then when I'm in > the 'listening' mode long enough, the fracture presents itself as an OPEN in > the filament line. Comments welcome. > 73, Gerald, KB7QQ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L4B tube
You need to resolder the filament pins to the wires coming out of the envelope. The tubes do not get enough cooling and the solder has melted within the tube base. (This is not the first time this has happened). Lee/ w0vt Houston Subject: [drakelist] L4B tube > > In my L4B amplifier, the tubes burn nicely for a short time, then one of the > tubes' filaments go out. I removed the tubes and switched them. Same tube > goes out after abit. Took that tube out again, checked filament to filament > pins, "zero" on the Simpson 260. Also checked for a filament to grid short, > (tapping tube didn't change reading) and that reading was "infinity". So the > tube is OK, until it heats up. The solder blob on the pin bottoms are OK. > > I think the filaments are getting HOT while I'm transmitting, and possibly a > 'fracture' in the filament somewhere, getting hot, expands, then when I'm in > the 'listening' mode long enough, the fracture presents itself as an OPEN in > the filament line. Comments welcome. > 73, Gerald, KB7QQ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Blue filter gel (C-line)
I bought some of this stuff awhile back, but can't remember where I sent off for it. I did it because someone posted that this is what Drake used and they also mentioned where it could be purchased. But, I was dissappointed. It is NOT the same as what Drake used. The film is much thinner then what Drake used. I would not buy anymore of it myself. However, the clor looked pritty good. I kind of dissapointed me to have someone say this is what the mfg used and then when I got it, it was not even close to being original, I think I paid something like $30 for this stuff. More then likely if you used it, you would have to "stiffin" it with some clear plastic. Lee Bahr - Original Message - From: David Austin To: Drakelist Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 6:54 PM Subject: [drakelist] Blue filter gel (C-line) Just trying to get hold of some new filter gel for the displays on my C-line. A previous posting suggested that Drake actually used a Rosco filter material known as Roscolene #853. I have been in touch with Rosco (UK) and they say this is a discontinued gel series. Does anyone know of a source of the original Roscolene #853, or if not, the nearest equivalent gel in one of Rosco's (or other manufacturer's) current range? Rosco tell me that there is no direct equivalent, but someone else may know of a satisfactory match? Thanks and 73 David G4GTP
Re: [drakelist] lafs
I think a seller can do anything he wants with his radio short of misrepresenting himself. If he chooses not to test it before selling it, fine, but don't say you have done so. A buyer has an obligation to look for an oxymoron and quiz the seller on his ad. (How can a radio be known to be in "good shape" when the cord is frayed and the radio is untested)? Then, there are many types of collectors. What does "good shape or "excellent shape" mean? Some want parts, some want an ugly radio that works to just use, some want a totally restored radio for looks and don't plan to use the radio, some want an original not working with all original parts. Some of the latter guys feel they would rather restore their own radio so it is done "their" way or they may just want to leave it entirely original with no modern parts put into it. To me, excellent shape means more to the cosmetics then how well the radio plays. I am looking for a radio to fix myself the way I want it fixed and I only want to do this to a good looking candidate or one I can get there. Frankly, when a guy says he has refurbished" a radio, I am leery! I don't want a radio with some shoe horned cobbled parts put in under the chassis or given some poor re-alignment. But, that is just my own direction and wishes and this is not the same for everyone. (different strokes for different folks". To me, the seller should just be honest and tell potential sellers what he knows about the radio and what has been done to it And for me, the less he has done, the better. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: DAN COTSIRILOS To: Jim W7RY ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [drakelist] lafs if a ham has a transmitter and wants top dollar he should test it! A ham should have no excuse not to test a transmitter. To me it is a oxymoron. - Original Message - From: Jim W7RY To: DAN COTSIRILOS ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [drakelist] lafs I fail to see the humor in the listing below. 73 Jim W7RY - Original Message - From: DAN COTSIRILOS To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 7:59 AM Subject: [drakelist] lafs This was listed on eham by a ham The lafs are not limited to Ebay. Viking Ranger all original no mods. Paint and front panel in excellent shape. Original power cord is frayed. Original Manual and schematic included. This is an estate radio and I have not tested it. $400 + shipping
Re: [drakelist] TR-4
Check the power supply electrolytics, check the diodes. Jumper the power supply plug without the TR-4. Does the fuse stop blowing? You need to isolate your problem. It could be many things. Could be a short in the plug where the wire goes into it. You need to do basic trouble shooting so you can isolate the trouble area. If the power supply doesn't blow a fuse with a jumper in the on-off switch lead, then it is in the rig. If it keeps blowing with just the jumper and no rig, it is in the power supply. Outside chance it is your transformer too. The first thing to suspect is the electrolytics and/or the diodes in the power supply. You didn't say if it blew a fuse in receive or just in transmit. The way you word the question makes any possible problem suspect. Nobody can give you an answer without more information then you provide. One can only guess with your input, electrolytics and diodes will probably be the first guess. That is, if you are saying it blows when you just turn it on in receive. Guessing just shot guns the trouble shooting. Stop and think, use logic, don't panic, and start isolating things so you get closer and closer to the problem. I am not trying to put you down, but being an extra class ham, I would hope you would have put in a little more effort into this before asking for help for your own sake. It is frustrating with a question as you posed it since there are a zillion reasons why a fuse blows. Let me ask this question. Are you installing the proper size fuse in fuse holder? Do you have a manual? Are the right tubes in the right sockets? Are any of the tubes shorted. Since this is a new rig to you, don't assume my prior questions don't need to be addressed. You can't assume anything with a new to you DOA radio. Has anyone gone in there and tried to fix something and screwed something else up? Do any of the wires look like someone has been soldering in there that maybe didn't know what he was doing or does everything look like it was soldered by the factory? How are the electrolytics in the transceiver? How can anyone really give you any help with a comment, it's broke, what is wrong? Again, this is not to put you down but nobody can help you if you don't help yourself with some preliminary diagnotics. Are you plugging a 120 volt power supply into a 220 volt outlet? Seems crazy but I have no idea what you have done or someone else has done before you with this rig. It's hard to diagnose a problem by LOOKING. One needs to use an ohm meter at bare minimum and start taking some resistance measurements. This should be a good learning experience for you to develope some good trouble shooting techniques. Lee, w0vt Houston > Hi gang: > I just bought a TR-4 and AC-4 Power Supply and it was almost DOA. It > blew a fuse in the p/s and I put another in and same. I looked in the > p/s for all the obvious stuff but nothing. Any ideas? I really am > depressed on this I can't afford to spend about $200.00 for > repair..Thanks > Fred AI5I > -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] ac-4's
Did someone modify one of the power supplies and install a relay in it so the on/off switch controls it rather then the primary of the transformer? If so, they would not be neccessarily compatible depending on the voltage relay used in the mod. Lee, w0vt Houston, Texas I<>
