[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, The week has been hectic but I've had a night and a day to recoup. Hopefully this is Saturday night :) I have been sleeping so I can't tell the days. But, it feels like Saturday. Friday was sunny and warm then the rains came. Therefore it must be Saturday in Western Oregon. However, around dinnertime the sun came out again, not quite so warm as yesterday but blue sky is pleasant. My sister was here for a few days during the week to find a little solitude. Her writing projects were well in hand when her son drove up a few hours ago to take her home. I got to show off my radio projects and a few robots. I think he likes the silence and the electronic gadgets. Now to get him pounding nails and cutting firewood ;) I've not been on the radio since last Sunday thus have no idea how the propagation will be for tomorrow's nets. We shall simply play it by ear. Daylight savings net times are in place. Maybe Geoff, GM4ESD, will be awakened by his alarm pheasant Murdock and find an auroral opening to work us. That would be a treat. He's been trying assiduously for a couple of years even though we are in a bit of a low in propagation. One never can tell though since we did have some aurora due to a shift in the magnetic field allowing a little of the solar wind through. That may well have recharged our propagation layer. One can always hope. Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com The site has a few scripts of net procedures if you are not familiar with how nets are structured and run. Dan has kindly given us a spot on one of his servers for the nets' archives. Thank you Dan. Now for me to get to work on the webpage to make some much needed changes. Ms. Pat used to fix and polish those pages but she has taken a break for a while :( I miss her. Please join us: Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT) 7045 kHz Until tomorrow, Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] VCO alignment
Help, Looked through all posts about VCO alignment in step II but I still can't get to 6.0v 7.0v is closest. Checked components all as spec. T5 (pre-wound) has 16 & 4 turns counted many times. Space turns closer/further no effect. looked for bridges etc. IDEAS? 73 and Thanks Ed ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Calibrating Bird Wattmeters (WAS: Wattmeters)
Got a couple of off-reflector questions and comments about the famous BIRD meters that ought to be of general interest: One was asking how the slugs or "elements" are calibrated. The ones I've seen have a pot under the cover that shows the frequency and power range. I've known the calibration lab to say my wonky slug was due to a noisy pot. They have also been known to move when the slug is bumped or vibrated. Bob, W7AVK, observed: "...the calibration on some of them is just a wire probe that is moved around to get the correct reading. A good drop will do wonders to the calibration. :-)" To which I can only rely, "Egad!" Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wattmeters (WAS: no subject)
In addition to Vic's "spot on" comments, Bird elements, like any precision device, need to be checked and calibrated regularly if they are to be depended upon. In commercial shops we at least compared several from time to time to be sure they all agreed with each other and, if not whether it was the element (usually the case) or the meter that was at fault. They went to a calibration lab for adjustment every year or two. The elements can be thrown out of calibration by being bumped around in the tool box, where too many of them hang out when not in use. After dropping an element, most users stick it back in and, if it registers power, heave a sigh of relief thinking "it wasn't hurt". Hm The most accurate method most Hams have of measuring RF power is to use a rectifier/voltmeter combination. That's because the accuracy of the peak voltage measurement is dependent upon a DMM that the Ham uses regularly and which can be easily checked with decent accuracy in a number of ways. For power levels beyond the limit of the metering circuit a simple voltage divider such as the Elecraft DL1 uses can be pressed into service. If you aren't sure about the accuracy of the divider, run a test at a power level that you can measure both directly and through the voltage divider to confirm its accuracy and, if there is an error, determine the needed correction. As for the MFJ guy who dismissed the Bird meter, he may have gone to the same sales seminars I attended in the 1970's. The one where they teach you this: Your prospect says, I have a Whiz-Bang unit!" The salesman looks genuinely interested and say, "Oh, really? Which model?" You say, "It's the mega-plex Mark Five!" He shakes his head slowly, saying, "Oh...that model...is it still working?" Nothing like the "inferred condemnation". Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone?
Fred, My Mouser 2004 catalog lists the 20 pin right angle header strip with gold plating as PN 571-28722320 or they have a gold plated breakaway strip of 36 that you can snip off 20 pins easily with your cutters PN 554-CA-S36RSP100, the strip of 36 is less expensive. You can also check DigiKey for header strips - I like the breakaway variety because you can make any size you wish. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My K2 #5422 is dead in the water. Waiting on a > CONNECTOR from Elecraft Parts. 6 days, no part. Next > mail > monday . :( > > Does anyone in FLORIDA have a # E620029 20-pin > right-angle CONNECTOR (20x1 male, RA) - the main one > on the center of RF BOARD? > > I soldered it on the wrong side. Destroyed it getting > it back off. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] (no subject)
In a former job we used Bird slug/wattmeters on all of our RF generators - 500w-25KW. We had a box of over 100 new slugs that were off by 20-50%. We never assumed because it said Bird that is was accurate. They were checked against a calorimeter at a set frequency of 13.56MHZ at fixed power levels. I brought in my W-4 wattmeter to check the accuracy. It was surprising how accurate it was on 20M. N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Sublette Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; John Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (no subject) I'm not trying to jump on the "down with MFJ" bandwagon, but I had an amusing incident with the fine folks at MFJ. I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and power supply, I could only get 240 watts output, as measured on my Bird wattmeter, I asked the MFJ "engineer" on duty if that was within normal tolerances for manufacturing for this amp. His reply was, "You can't trust those Bird wattmeters." I Quickly thanked him for his time and left. I could see no reason to waste any more of my time. Dave, K4TO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Despite all the disparaging comments re MFJ, I've never had any problems > with the numerous items I've purchased from them. > > Disclaimers ON. > > Doug > W6JD > > -- Original message -- > From: John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >> On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:06:53 -0700 (PDT), Phil,K2ASP wrote: >> >> "But but but the MFJ gadget costs in the $150 range. Got to keep >> the economy of Mississippi going after the hurricanes!! >> >> -- >> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane". >> >> Thank you Phil! >> >> John, KD5EJA, Long Beach, MS (that's on the once beautiful MS Gulf Coast!) >> K2-4799, KX-1 479, K1 - 679 >> >> >> ___ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone?
Alas, I too am waiting for some parts omitted from my KPA100 and I'm in the same boat as Fred -- six days and nada (although they did get me a bunch of parts ordered on Wednesday tout suite!). I think we're spoiled. -- Joe, W2RBA Phil LaMarche wrote: It must be lost. Elecraft has the best customer service of any ham manufacturer. They make it happen. Phil -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL) Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 4:46 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone? Hi - My K2 #5422 is dead in the water. Waiting on a CONNECTOR from Elecraft Parts. 6 days, no part. Next mail monday . :( ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 s/n 5361 SSB TX audio problem
Hi all I'm experiencing a funny problem with my K2 s/n 5361. My KSB2 board went through intitial testing without problems, all measured values were OK as per the manual. My TX audio however is horrible. It sounds very choppy (one ham reported to me it sounds 'very restrained'), it seems like the signal is cutting out and then switching back on in a very rapid fashion. I get almost no ALC reading when modulating, neither speaking very closely into the microphone nor a few inches away. At first I thought I was experiencing the well-documented low mike gain problem. When speaking very closely to the microphone (a Kenwood MC43) the audio sounds reasonably clear (distorted but not much gets chopped out) but as soon as I move away from the microphone the chopping effect kicks in. This led me to believe that my mike output level was too low and that the KSB2's noise gate was operating on its gating threshold. I then connected a preamp between the mike and the K2. With the K2 connected to a dummy load I listened to my TX signal through my Kenwood TS570. Varying the preamp gain made no noticeable difference, the audio kept sounding distorted. I then tried the R14 mod (changing the 1k R14 into a 10k resistor). No solution, still very crappy audio (I disconnected my preamp at this stage). At that moment I discovered a funny thing: when speaking into the mike at a distance of approximately 1 foot I noticed that my audio was almost sounding natural. Of course I was not getting any power out of the K2 this way. When I moved the mike closer to my mouth the distortion quickly came back. So, at this moment it looks like I'm grossly overmodulating when I speak at a normal distance from my mike. It sounds a lot better when I speak far away from the mike but then I'm really running QRPp, hi. I've taken the KSB2 board out of the K2 and checked all soldering joints (which seem OK). One of T2's leads looked suspicious so I desoldered T2 and rewound it with the little spare wire I had left and resoldered it. Still no luck. Receive audio is OK so the filters seem do be doing fine. Any suggestions on where to start looking for the cause of this problem are more than welcome. Thanks in advance Glenn ON4WIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone?
Amen. Scott doesn't make mistakes. His accuracy is like Christine - spot on. And who is Marina? She seems to be just as accurate. Joe N9JR Phil LaMarche <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It must be lost. Elecraft has the best customer service of any ham manufacturer. They make it happen. Phil Philip LaMarche LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com www.W9DVM.com 727-944-3226 800-395-7795 pin 02 FAX 727-937-8834 NASFT #30210 W9DVM -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL) Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 4:46 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone? Hi - My K2 #5422 is dead in the water. Waiting on a CONNECTOR from Elecraft Parts. 6 days, no part. Next mail monday . :( Does anyone in FLORIDA have a # E620029 20-pin right-angle CONNECTOR (20x1 male, RA) - the main one on the center of RF BOARD? I soldered it on the wrong side. Destroyed it getting it back off. One would think these connnectors might be a standard item somewhere. I'm trying every shipping option, I can think of with Elecraft. It must have gotten lost. Elecraft will have to ship it again I'm thinking. And today is Saturday .. :( Fred N3CSY Spring Hill, FL 4/08 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk Works Site - Check it out!
Ed, Just call it "Area 51" after the supersecret site in the NV desert 73 & GL Tom K6CT aka CX7TT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone?
It must be lost. Elecraft has the best customer service of any ham manufacturer. They make it happen. Phil Philip LaMarche LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com www.W9DVM.com 727-944-3226 800-395-7795 pin 02 FAX 727-937-8834 NASFT #30210 W9DVM -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL) Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 4:46 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone? Hi - My K2 #5422 is dead in the water. Waiting on a CONNECTOR from Elecraft Parts. 6 days, no part. Next mail monday . :( Does anyone in FLORIDA have a # E620029 20-pin right-angle CONNECTOR (20x1 male, RA) - the main one on the center of RF BOARD? I soldered it on the wrong side. Destroyed it getting it back off. One would think these connnectors might be a standard item somewhere. I'm trying every shipping option, I can think of with Elecraft. It must have gotten lost. Elecraft will have to ship it again I'm thinking. And today is Saturday .. :( Fred N3CSY Spring Hill, FL 4/08 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 20x1 Male RA Connector? Anyone?
Hi - My K2 #5422 is dead in the water. Waiting on a CONNECTOR from Elecraft Parts. 6 days, no part. Next mail monday . :( Does anyone in FLORIDA have a # E620029 20-pin right-angle CONNECTOR (20x1 male, RA) - the main one on the center of RF BOARD? I soldered it on the wrong side. Destroyed it getting it back off. One would think these connnectors might be a standard item somewhere. I'm trying every shipping option, I can think of with Elecraft. It must have gotten lost. Elecraft will have to ship it again I'm thinking. And today is Saturday .. :( Fred N3CSY Spring Hill, FL 4/08 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
It was a 500w slug, which leaves us with a 25 watt error, max. Vic K2VCO wrote: Dave Sublette wrote: I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and power supply, I could only get 240 watts output, as measured on my Bird wattmeter, I asked the MFJ "engineer" on duty if that was within normal tolerances for manufacturing for this amp. His reply was, "You can't trust those Bird wattmeters." I Quickly thanked him for his time and left. I could see no reason to waste any more of my time. Actually, I think the Bird's accuracy is specified as 5% of full scale. So if you were using a 1KW slug in the bird, it could have been off by as much as 50 watts, brand new. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
Dave Sublette wrote: I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and power supply, I could only get 240 watts output, as measured on my Bird wattmeter, I asked the MFJ "engineer" on duty if that was within normal tolerances for manufacturing for this amp. His reply was, "You can't trust those Bird wattmeters." I Quickly thanked him for his time and left. I could see no reason to waste any more of my time. Actually, I think the Bird's accuracy is specified as 5% of full scale. So if you were using a 1KW slug in the bird, it could have been off by as much as 50 watts, brand new. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering, can't suck it or wick it, blow it.
Keith W8GX asked: I have never used a solder sucker before. How is one used when a part is still on the board? And what is a good solder sucker to buy? I remove the part first. Parts are cheap. If in doubt, cut the leads! After all, the PCB with the rest of the parts is the most expensive part you have. To tell the truth, you don't always have to do that. Often you can save caps and resistors by very *gently* lifting up on one end at a time while touching the iron to the pad to melt the solder. I use a very thin small screwdriver or dental pick (see your dentist - he/she usually throws them out regularly) under the lead whose soldering pad I'm going to heat. Then lift gently when the solder melts. You can usually heat the pad and lift from the same side of the board. Again, use your iron on the safest side of the board. That process can be facilitated by removing most of the solder first. If you can safely approach the PCB from the component side with your iron, heat that pad from the component side while using the sucker on the other side where the tip will sit against the board over the pad. The idea is to force all the air pulled into the sucker to come through the solder pad. That will usually leave very little solder in the hole. Sometimes you'll find the lead is loose in the hole after doing that. At the very least, a little heat will release it completely. If the pad is full of solder while you remove the part, it might take going back and forth several times, side to side, but resistors and caps usually come out easily. The trick is to NOT apply significant pressure on the lead the until the solder is molten to avoid pulling the plated through hole out of the board. Also avoid "cooking" the pads. The pads slowly debond as long as heat is applied. It's not just how hot they get, it's also how long they've been hot that determines whether a pad will come loose. Once the part is out, then I clear the hole using the solder sucker as needed. There's a *world* of difference between the bulb-type suckers and the spring-loaded type. In my experience, the bulb suckers are an exercise in futility 99% of the time. My first choice is the spring loaded sucker for best performance per dollar spent. Of course, nothing is as nice as the heated desoldering tools like the Hakko. Elecraft recommends the SoldapulltR model DS017LS. It is good. I also have a Radio Shack sucker that I suspect was made by the same people. Works fine. On-line, one of my favorite tool vendors is Tequipment (www.tequipment.net) who carries the Palidin 1704 (http://www.tequipment.net/PaladinTools1704.html or http://tinyurl.com/z8elf for a short URL) that sells for about $20. I not connected with tequipment but have made several purchases from them and liked the service the provided (and questions answered by a simple phone call when I was trying to decide exactly what I wanted to order). If you've got a spare $100 you can consider the Hakko powered desoldering tool that Tequipment carries as well. I'd probably buy one except that I do some of the documentation for Elecraft. I am careful to live in the same world as our builders, using only those tools suggested to our builders so I know that when I say something will work if done a certain way it's based on my actual experience and not what I "hope" would work. The worst thing would be to have a fancy desoldering tool on the bench and not be able to use it in good conscience! At the risk of stating a PCB "heresy" is this: if you are desoldering and suddenly see the little round donut of a solder pad stuck to your iron, don't panic. The little donut on the side of the board without any connecting trace is the easiest to debond, and it usually does not affect the performance of the rig in any way. Just be sure you don't tear or break any traces leading to the pad. If that happens, it's a sure sign that you are heating the pad too much for too long, but losing a donut won't kill the rig. Just go ahead and put in the new part and solder. The solder will bond to the plating in the hole and on the other side of the board. I solder and desolder at 700F unless it's one of the rare occasions I use some braid (pad too close to an obstruction to get the sucker over it, for example). When using braid I bump up the iron temperature to 800 F because of the heat-sink properties of the braid, and I keep trimming off the used braid so I'm always working at the end to minimize the amount of braid the iron has to heat up. Also, make sure there's a little solder in the hole and the iron is slightly wet with solder so the heat will transfer quickly. The biggest issue I see with braid is that people don't have some solder to start the transfer process and they don't have the iron hot enough so they end up cooking the pad until everything debonds. In my book, braid is the hardest way to clear solder from pads without damaging them. It requires the most skill t
RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering, can't suck it or wick it, blow it.
Along with all Ron's good comments, I would like to add one more technique for clearing solder filled holes or holes partly filled with solder - a tapered stainless steel needle. Heat the hole and the needle and when it is hot enough push the needle through and the solder will easily clear. The only condition is that the component lead has already been removed - easy enough if you cut the pins and pull them out one at a time. If you can't pick up one of these tools at a hamfest, a large sewing needle glued into a small hole drilled into a 1/4 inch dowel (dowel long enough to serve as a handle - your choice for the length) will do the job nicely. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I put the sucker on the opposite board from the iron and have excellent > results on the first try. I do it like this: > > Carefully choose which side of the board to touch with the iron. > Choose the > side with the fewest heat-sensitive parts like relays, trimmer caps and > pots, etc. Generally, that's the "bottom" of the KX1 PCB. So you position > the board in the vice so you have a clear view of the side you > are going to > touch with the iron then, with your hand supported on a rest to hold it > steady, position the solder sucker on the opposite side over the hole with > your finger/thumb on the trigger. Now, while looking at the pad where you > are going to touch the iron, touch the iron carefully to the pad and, as > soon as the solder melts, squeeze the sucker trigger and WHACK! You have a > clean hole. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
I'm not trying to jump on the "down with MFJ" bandwagon, but I had an amusing incident with the fine folks at MFJ. I stopped by to see them at their booth at a large hamfest to discuss a problem I was having with their 300 watt amp for two meters. In spite of careful tweaking and adequate drive and power supply, I could only get 240 watts output, as measured on my Bird wattmeter, I asked the MFJ "engineer" on duty if that was within normal tolerances for manufacturing for this amp. His reply was, "You can't trust those Bird wattmeters." I Quickly thanked him for his time and left. I could see no reason to waste any more of my time. Dave, K4TO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Despite all the disparaging comments re MFJ, I've never had any problems with the numerous items I've purchased from them. Disclaimers ON. Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:06:53 -0700 (PDT), Phil,K2ASP wrote: "But but but the MFJ gadget costs in the $150 range. Got to keep the economy of Mississippi going after the hurricanes!! -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane". Thank you Phil! John, KD5EJA, Long Beach, MS (that's on the once beautiful MS Gulf Coast!) K2-4799, KX-1 479, K1 - 679 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K1 assembly question
Thanks to the two guys who responded to my question today concerning the VFO pot. The pot was wired to the board incorrectly. The markings on the pot are a little confusing, but when I looked closely at the diagram in the Elecraft manual, I found that I had not followed their instructions exactly. So, that problem is fixed and the receiver alignment is complete. It was a bit of a thrill to actually hear signals on the air and know the receiver is working correctly. I look forward to having it finished and one the air. Thanks again. 73, Wes W1LIC _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk Works Site - Check it out!
Don't forget the P-38 "Lightening". Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: "EricJ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > And Kelly Johnson's other masterpiece, the SR-71 Blackbird. > > A wire resonant vertical antenna doesn't exactly fit the image of the > cutting edge technology associated with the Skunk Works. Not to mention that > Lockheed Martin owns both the name and the skunk logo that EPA Skunk Works > has appropriated. > > Eric > KE6US > www.ke6us.com > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen > Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 10:26 AM > To: Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk Works Site - Check it out! > > Hmmm ... be careful. Lockheed (now Lockheed Martin and not related to the > inventor of the Retro-Encabulator) may have a trademark registered on "Skunk > Works." It became fairly famous for secret airplanes such as the U2 and > F-117A. > > Fred K6DGW > > Edward R. Breneiser wrote: > > Hello all! > > > > I liked the EPA Skunk Works name so much that I created a Skunk Works > > area on my website. > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering, can't suck it or wick it, blow it.
Good ideas Ron! I have never used a solder sucker before. How is one used when a part is still on the board? And what is a good solder sucker to buy? Thanks for educating us poor mistake makers! Keith Hamilton, W8GX K2 #4692 Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Trying to use a solder sucker on the same side of the board as the soldering iron usually doesn't work for me either. Some builders trim a notch in the side of their sucker nozzle to they can put the sucker over the soldering iron tip. I put the sucker on the opposite board from the iron and have excellent results on the first try. I do it like this: Carefully choose which side of the board to touch with the iron. Choose the side with the fewest heat-sensitive parts like relays, trimmer caps and pots, etc. Generally, that's the "bottom" of the KX1 PCB. So you position the board in the vice so you have a clear view of the side you are going to touch with the iron then, with your hand supported on a rest to hold it steady, position the solder sucker on the opposite side over the hole with your finger/thumb on the trigger. Now, while looking at the pad where you are going to touch the iron, touch the iron carefully to the pad and, as soon as the solder melts, squeeze the sucker trigger and WHACK! You have a clean hole. Don't admire the clean hole until you've carefully moved the soldering iron back to its stand! A LOT of builders groan about having successfully cleared a pad and then, while they're admiring the clean hole while holding the iron in their hand accidentally touch a relay case or pot shaft and melt it! Put the iron back in the stand before looking or doing anything else! Until it's safely back in the stand, it's a "bomb" waiting to attack your rig! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com __ NOD32 1.1477 (20060408) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
Despite all the disparaging comments re MFJ, I've never had any problems with the numerous items I've purchased from them. Disclaimers ON. Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:06:53 -0700 (PDT), Phil,K2ASP wrote: > > "But but but the MFJ gadget costs in the $150 range. Got to keep > the economy of Mississippi going after the hurricanes!! > > -- > 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane". > > Thank you Phil! > > John, KD5EJA, Long Beach, MS (that's on the once beautiful MS Gulf Coast!) > K2-4799, KX-1 479, K1 - 679 > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering, can't suck it or wick it, blow it.
Trying to use a solder sucker on the same side of the board as the soldering iron usually doesn't work for me either. Some builders trim a notch in the side of their sucker nozzle to they can put the sucker over the soldering iron tip. I put the sucker on the opposite board from the iron and have excellent results on the first try. I do it like this: Carefully choose which side of the board to touch with the iron. Choose the side with the fewest heat-sensitive parts like relays, trimmer caps and pots, etc. Generally, that's the "bottom" of the KX1 PCB. So you position the board in the vice so you have a clear view of the side you are going to touch with the iron then, with your hand supported on a rest to hold it steady, position the solder sucker on the opposite side over the hole with your finger/thumb on the trigger. Now, while looking at the pad where you are going to touch the iron, touch the iron carefully to the pad and, as soon as the solder melts, squeeze the sucker trigger and WHACK! You have a clean hole. Don't admire the clean hole until you've carefully moved the soldering iron back to its stand! A LOT of builders groan about having successfully cleared a pad and then, while they're admiring the clean hole while holding the iron in their hand accidentally touch a relay case or pot shaft and melt it! Put the iron back in the stand before looking or doing anything else! Until it's safely back in the stand, it's a "bomb" waiting to attack your rig! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re Cans & KPH.
Just for interest. On their annual 'night of nights', I've copied KPH here now on 3 consecutive years on 426kHz. Lst year it was good enough to record & send 'em a copy. Unfortunately, my K2s dont go down that far, so had to use another rig. But, for a guy who spent 35 yrs at sea as R/O, its always a thrill to hear KPH again - even if I can't exchange traffic with them!! 73 to All. Mike, zl1mh. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.0/305 - Release Date: 8/04/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Desoldering, can't suck it or wick it, blow it.
I have all the tools of the trade including a high end Pace soldering station. Even with the tools and decades of experience I still find that occasional tab that refuses to clear of sollder. Ran into several pads on my KX1 while installing the upgrade that refused to clear and gave all the signs of pulling away from the pc board. On a chance I had nothing to loose I used my fine iron tip (aprox 0.03") and a can of 'Dust Off' compressed gas, used to dust computer keyboards. Heated the problem pads and they came clean when I gave the pad a shot of gas. The down side of this procedure is the solder is blown out the opposite side and you must inspect the board and remove any solder splatter. I use the long plastic tube that usually comes with the compressed gas to direct the spray right at the problem pad while heating the pad at the same time. Hope this saves someone the trouble of reworking damaged pc board traces. 73, Walt KE8BQ 73, Walt, KE8BQ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Skunks and Antennas (WAS:] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk WorksSite - Check it out!)
Bob, N7XY wrote: I replaced it with a Hy-Gain AV-640 vertical mounted to a piece of 2 in pipe I strapped to the side of the house. I have had better results with the vertical, but the ridge line antenna did more than just warm the clouds. -- You are one of those people many of us envy, even if you can't put up a tower and beam. You live on an island surrounded by salt water. Sure, it's a fair-sized island, but it's a far better environment than many of us have for verticals. One of the problems with comparing antennas, even verticals vs. horizontals, is that unless one can do really fast switching between the two antennas, making the change in a second or two at most, it's very hard to tell the difference. Even if the difference is 6 dB or more - a full S-Unit on most receivers - it can be hard to spot unless it's done very quickly. And different antennas will favor different propagation. It's more than just the angle of maximum radiation but many other factors come into play as well. One can apply many basic rules and concepts when choosing an antenna type, but the most universally true rules that seem to hold up over time are: 1) Bigger is better than smaller. 2) Higher is better than lower. It's what we do to achieve those the best we can in any given situation that leaves many of us staring at our rooflines so much the neighbors start wondering if we're a bit "touched in the head"... One commercial group who has done a lot to document the best tradeoffs in installing verticals, and who has had their verticals used successfully on many DX-peditions, is Force 12 in California. Of course, their DX-pedition verticals were also all (as far as I know) on an island or beach overlooking salt water , but they put out some great signals. They have done a lot of work testing and documenting things like the advantage of elevated radials, which help avoid close-in ground losses by minimizing the coupling of RF currents to the earth. They have a very informative FAQ page at http://force12inc.com/F12-Sigma-FAQ-1.htm or http://tinyurl.com/p5u2e. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Skunks and Antennas (WAS:] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk Works Site - Check it out!)
On Apr 7, 2006, at 8:45 PM, Walt Armour wrote: Well, I'm in Beaverton so try to keep the big cats out west. I'll just watch for the local raccoons here. :) On the antenna though, I don't think the tree is feasible due to location. The ridge line (on some poles for a touch more height) is quite doable and could easily feed into where my radio will one day be. However, I'm a little concerned about the signal going too vertical and having a bad angle on the horizon. Should I be considering a vertical antenna if I really want to DX? New guy here so please correct any bad assumptions I'm making... Walt, KE7GWZ I don't have any usable trees on my lot (unusual for the NW) and when I moved here (Bainbridge Island, WA) six years ago I put up a wire antenna about three feet above the ridge line of the house and attached garage. The garage part was at a right angle to the house part. It was about 65 feet long on one leg and 34 feet on the other. I fed it at the corner with coax and used a MFJ tuner, although for some bands the tuner on my TS-570D would match things fairly well by itself (this was before I built my K2). I didn't really expect much in the way of performance, but our local DX club had a "friendly competition" in 2001 to see who could work the most DX in one year running QRP levels. I couldn't really compete with the guys who had beams (one guy worked over 240 countries), but I did work 100 countries (plus several more running QRO) using that antenna using all bands from 40 to 10 meters. That was much better than I had expected, but of course it was at a different part of the sunspot cycle and propagation was much better than it is currently. I replaced it with a Hy-Gain AV-640 vertical mounted to a piece of 2 in pipe I strapped to the side of the house. I have had better results with the vertical, but the ridge line antenna did more than just warm the clouds. 73, Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk Works Site - Check it out!
In a message dated 4/7/2006 11:57:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://www.wa3wsj.com/SkunkWorks.html Okay I found it. Funny thing, I didn't mind getting spammed that time. /Bill K3UJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU used in attic environment
Being an engineer I am sure you enjoy putting these kinds of pieces together. OTOH, the Ameritron 4-position switch placed in your attic will switch up to four antennas. The control voltage to activate the switch rides on the coax. One coax, four antennas. Quality RG213 and your db loss ain't that much. de Joe, aa4nn - Hi All, I am considering using my T1 to tune a couple of attic antennas, a 40 mtr dipole with drooping ends, and a horizontal loop of about 130 feet total length, as close to the feed point of each antenna as possible to reduce losses in the coax from shack to attic. I would plan to use a relay to select between the antennas, the placement of same which would keep the coax length to about 6 feet after the relay to one antenna, and zero feet to the other. Directly prior to the relay (toward the transceiver) I would place the T1. I would use a small reed relay mounted in a pill box or something similar, to plug into the external tune jack on the side of the T1 to initiate the TUNE cycle, and observe the SWR on a separate SWR meter in the basement shack to know when the tune-up is finished. My concern is the heat buildup in the attic during our hot, sticky Virginia summers. Has anyone else tried to do this, and how did the T1 take the heat? It's a great little tuner, but I doubt it was designed to take 120+ degree heat for extended periods. Any thoughts and observations will be appreciated. BTW, 10 watts from my K2 will be the max expected power for this setup to handle. 72, Ken, NU4I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
If the Skunk Works was Area 51, why not name the antenna Aerial 51? just a thought (or almost one) John AB8WH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued
Be certain you have correctly installed L31 and that it is the 10 uH shielded inductor. Resistor R115 is about the same size - is there a possibility that you exchanged these parts? Be certain you have D16, D17 and D18 inserted the proper way around (the Parts Placement Diagram is handy for checking diode orientation). Check the soldering on these diodes. Be certain R19 and RP2 is well soldered. While you are checking soldering, also check R20 and R21, RFC14 C84 and C85, and Q19. You can check the toroid lead soldering for RFC14 by measuring the resistance to ground from the source of Q19 - expect a small bit more than 270 ohms. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:28 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued > > > Just an update: > > Following the advice that I had found on this list, I desoldered > the crystal and checked for solder balls. It was clean. > > I also checked the voltage on pin 5 of U6 and it was 4 volts. > > I looked at the thermistor board and it looked good. > > I watched the signal using a scope and with the radio setup for > the "CAL FCTR" test, > I had a reading of ~400hz and nothing but noise on TP3. > > Once I pressed the "BAND - " button, I got the expected 12,090hz > signal and a reasonably pretty sine wave on TP3. > > Pressing the "BAND +" or turning the tuning knob would send it > back to ~400hz and the signal would revert to noise. > > > Any thoughts? > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/303 - Release Date: 4/6/2006 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU used in attic environment
Hi All, I am considering using my T1 to tune a couple of attic antennas, a 40 mtr dipole with drooping ends, and a horizontal loop of about 130 feet total length, as close to the feed point of each antenna as possible to reduce losses in the coax from shack to attic. I would plan to use a relay to select between the antennas, the placement of same which would keep the coax length to about 6 feet after the relay to one antenna, and zero feet to the other. Directly prior to the relay (toward the transceiver) I would place the T1. I would use a small reed relay mounted in a pill box or something similar, to plug into the external tune jack on the side of the T1 to initiate the TUNE cycle, and observe the SWR on a separate SWR meter in the basement shack to know when the tune-up is finished. My concern is the heat buildup in the attic during our hot, sticky Virginia summers. Has anyone else tried to do this, and how did the T1 take the heat? It's a great little tuner, but I doubt it was designed to take 120+ degree heat for extended periods. Any thoughts and observations will be appreciated. BTW, 10 watts from my K2 will be the max expected power for this setup to handle. 72, Ken, NU4I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solomon soldering iron tips
Does anyone know a source for ordering replacement tips for a Solomon SL-10 soldering station on the east coast or mid-west? I know Circuit Specialists has them but it takes awhile to get them from Arizona to Virginia! I'm about to start on the KPA-100. Thanks and 73, Cary, K4TM K2 #5266 Lynchburg, VA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Area-WSJ Security Breech!
Hello all! K0JL who happens to be Polar Bear #25 is the first to enter Area-WSJ! K0JL has entered into a new dimension and now possess the keys needed to see into the future of backpacking radio. The keys into the next portal are on the web pages, but one must have a keen eye and deductive reasoning abilities to find them! " Many will not take the journey, but the few who do will be changed forevermore" 72, Ed, WA3WSJ Area-WSJ Gate Keeper ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Skunks and Antennas (WAS:] WA3WSJ's EPA Skunk WorksSite - Check it out!)
Walk, KE7GWZ asked: The ridge line (on some poles for a touch more height) is quite doable and could easily feed into where my radio will one day be. However, I'm a little concerned about the signal going too vertical and having a bad angle on the horizon. Should I be considering a vertical antenna if I really want to DX? How far above the ground would your ridge wire be? What bands do you want to work most? Contrary to what people are likely to say, world-wide DX does NOT go away now, but it can get harder to find for many of us urban dwellers. The reason is that the DX will be on lower frequencies where we are unable to erect efficient antennas. First of all, let's consider a good antenna for making lots of reliable QSOs independent of almost all sun conditions. A horizontal antenna from about 0.1 to 0.4 wavelengths above the ground will provide that out to 1,000 miles or so. So if your ridge antenna is up 30 feet, it will do a credible job for short skip on 80 and 40. It will provide good DX on 20 meters and higher frequencies. Where you will find he most DX during the sunspot minimum will be at the lower frequencies. 160 meters will see regular openings, 80 will see a lot and they grow less and less frequent as the frequency increases. That doesn't mean that 20 meters will not have lots of DX, it just isn't as regular as before. A funny thing about the way propagation works, the most efficient frequencies for DX are those very close to the Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF). During sunspot maxima that is most often up near 30 MHz. At the same time the losses in the atmosphere caused by RF absorption by ions created by solar radiation decrease as frequency increases. That's why you never hear DX on the standard broadcast band (550 kHz - 1700 kHz) at any point in the sunspot cycle except at night, and then you can hear DX if you find a clear channel at any point in the sunspot cycle. It's almost independent of the sunspots. 160 meters is a lot like that, 80 less, etc. So when the sunspots move the MUF up to the higher frequencies, the DX is more common but it by no means goes away at sunspot minimum. It just moves to lower frequencies and, because of the ionization produced by sunshine during daylight hours, DX occurs only at night on the lower frequencies. It's interesting to look at the old magazine articles as the short waves were "discovered" by Hams and the big news wasn't "DX", it was "Daylight DX!" The ranges worked weren't what was so surprising, it was that DX could be heard during daylight for the first time in the whole history of radio. But, to get a good horizontal DX antenna on 80 meters, you need one about 100 feet above the ground! For 160 meters it needs to be closer to twice that high! Few of us can even consider such a high antenna. That's where verticals come in to play. A horizontal antenna at ideal height has a gain of about 5 or 6 dB over an "isotropic" antenna at angles useful for DX. (An isotropic is a fictional antenna of zero size that is convenient to use for comparing antenna designs.) So your horizontal at a good height will make your effective radiated power about 4 times greater. A K2/100 will radiate as much as a 400 watt rig feeding a 0 dBi (the "i" refers to an isotropic radiator) antenna. Since few of us can put up horizontal antennas at ideal heights on 80 or 160, we consider verticals. Verticals do not provide the gain a horizontal antenna has. Indeed, they frequently have about 0 dbi or even a little less. Although many theoretical antenna models show that a vertical has maximum gain at the horizon (0 degrees elevation) that is not the case in practice. That will occur only if there are no ground losses. Vertical induce larger currents in the ground that are mostly converted into heat (unless the station has the good fortune to live on a sheet of metal extending many thousands of feet in all directions, or perhaps second best is to be on the salt-water oceans). Almost all radiation from a vertical below about 20 degrees is lost to the ground. Theses are "far field" losses, occurring many wavelengths from the antenna, so the largest field of radials won't help. Bottom line, we live with the fact that a good vertical has about 6 dB less gain at useful angles than a horizontal at ideal heights: our effective radiated power is about 1/4 what it would be with that ideal horizontal antenna. Now, there's another loss issue with verticals. If the vertical is not a dipole (it is not 1/2 wavelength long) it will depend on currents flowing into the ground for efficient operation. These currents increase rapidly as the antenna is made shorter. They are fairly large when the vertical is 1/4 wave long, and grow extremely fast as the length drops below 1/4 wavelength. These are physical, not electrical lengths. That is, on 80 meters a 66 foot tall vertical will show a base impedance of about 35 ohms and be self-resonant when
