[Elecraft] Want-To-Borrow; Book - Understanding, Building, and Using Baluns and Ununs

2007-03-04 Thread Mark Saunders, kJ7BS
Does anyone have this book that I can borrow?

 

Mark, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
Editor, The SKCC Centurion
K2 # 0539
FISTS # 2972 cc 1806
SKCC # 2240 C56
ARCI # 12647
AZ ScQRPion
 

 

 

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[Elecraft] Zero beating

2007-03-04 Thread Andrew Catanzaro

Don,

Zero beating does not involve hearing down to zero cycles.  It is matching
two tones, whatever their frequency, until; the beating phenomenon, which is
not a sound comprised of frequencies lower than the audio passband of the
receiver or below the lower limit of human hearing, stops.  As you know, it
is more of a whooping sound.  It is clearly within the audio passband of
most radios.  I used to use my K2 listening to WWV with Spectrogram as a
frequency reference.

I recently built two NorCal FCC1/2 DDS VFO's.  If I had used the
K2/Spectrogram to calibrate them, they would have been accurate to within a
few Hz, as you say.  By using my Japan Radio listening to WWV in AM mode (no
Spectrogram needed!), it was easy to hear the VFO beating against WWV's
carrier.  Without being zero beat, it is possible to count the beats per
seconds if you know how to tune a piano.  You can tell how may cycles it's
off.  But anyone can easily hear when the beating process stops, and then
the *maximum* error the VFO readout displays is 1 Hz.  I have found it very
hard to get this kind of accuracy using Spectrogram.

Regards,
Andy W9NJY
K2 KX1

---

Message: 16
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 20:54:29 -0500
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency counters for Alignment
To: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED], Ron D'Eau Claire
[EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Elecraft Discussion List'
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Ken and all,

What you say is true - but you can detect the transmitted tones sent by WWV
with great accuracy.  See http://tf.nist.gov/stations/iform.html#stdf for
innformation about what tones are transmitted at what times.

With the audio of a SSB receiver fed into the computer soundcard, and the
computer running a program like Spectrogram, one can align the received
tones with properly set Spectrogram markers and when the transmitted tones
line up with the received tones, you can be certain that WWV is tuned
precisely.  This is actually more accurate than trying to listen for the
carrier at zero frequency - neither the receiver audio nor the human ear can
respond to zero frequency, and attempt to do so may be off by +/-30 Hz or
more - detecting the tones with a graphic display will allow you to tune
within a few Hz.

73,
Don W3FPR


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 SSB power control

2007-03-04 Thread Trevor Smithers
Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated.

Just to clarify, I built up the amp last year but never got around to 
installing it. So 
around December 06 I obtained the upgrade kit and installed that as well and 
that's 
how things stand at the moment.

However your reply and mention of the new C31 had me looking around the 
Elecraft site and I see that there is an errata dated 4 December 06 which 
stresses 
the importance of changing R19  R20 even though the correct values may already 
be installed - needless to say when I did the upgrade I followed the original 
instructions which basically says (on page 4) if the correct value components 
are 
already installed go to the next section.

So, the upshot is, that I need to strip down the amp, replace R19  20 with the 
low 
inductance type, check the other components in accordance with the latest 
errata 
and install a new C31. At which point I should be in a position to check out 
the amp 
properly.

73 to all
Trevor  G0KTN

  
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RE: [Elecraft] K60XV - ALC closed loop?

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dave,

That reference to a closed loop ALC with the K60XV applies only to the low
power transverter outputs of the K60XV.  It will not modify the ALC action
for the normal HF outputs.

Your lack of power control on 40 meter SSB is quite another matter.  It
could possibly be an oscillation occurring near 40 meters.  The KPA100UPKT
upgrade was developed because of an oscillation that could occur at 40
meters, so you may want to consider adding that upgrade as a first course of
action.  You could have a problem with the ALC on the KSB2 board, but I
would think it would show up on other bands if that were the source of your
strange behavior.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Hello all.

 On the first page of the K60XV manual says:  ... The K60XV's low-level
 output is nominally 0 dBm (1 milliwatt), adjustable using the K2's POWER
 control.  More importantly, the K60XV provides full closed-loop ALC that
 works in both SSB and CW modes. ...

 Does this mean that the ALC will regulate the K2's power output more
 accurately?  At the moment on my K2 will run 100w on SSB regardless of
 my PO Setting.  I have to be in ALC to be able to reduce the power.
 This only occurs only on the 40mx band - all other bands the power
 control on SSB is fine.

 Cheers,

 Dave

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 SSB power control

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Trevor,

If your R19 and R20 resistors have a reddish/brown body, you can leave them
in place - those are the good ones.  The potentially bad ones are the light
blue bodied resistors, and not all of those are inductive, but it is easier
to just call for replacing them than to explain which ones might be bad.
Inductive resistors were shipped with KPA100s and upgrade kits during the
summer of 2006 - the resistor vendor changed to an inductive design without
notifying Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated.

 Just to clarify, I built up the amp last year but never got
 around to installing it. So
 around December 06 I obtained the upgrade kit and installed that
 as well and that's
 how things stand at the moment.

 However your reply and mention of the new C31 had me looking around the
 Elecraft site and I see that there is an errata dated 4 December
 06 which stresses
 the importance of changing R19  R20 even though the correct
 values may already
 be installed - needless to say when I did the upgrade I followed
 the original
 instructions which basically says (on page 4) if the correct
 value components are
 already installed go to the next section.

 So, the upshot is, that I need to strip down the amp, replace R19
  20 with the low
 inductance type, check the other components in accordance with
 the latest errata
 and install a new C31. At which point I should be in a position
 to check out the amp
 properly.

 73 to all
 Trevor  G0KTN


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[Elecraft] Re: SSB Power control and KPA100

2007-03-04 Thread Larry Phipps
Thanks for the feedback Bill, and to Gary for the solution. Jack's 
measurements were done on a very recent K2/100, so his rig may already 
have the mod. If so, the SSB picture on my website would be the fixed 
version. The overshoot on that picture is not excessive. All rigs 
exhibit a little bit of this I'm sure.


Larry N8LP



William Shappley wrote:

Trevor -

I also saw this problem.  I first saw it while checking out my new 
KPA-100 on my Bird wattmeter - the Bird would see the overshoot
even when not in peak hold mode.  I also have an LP-100, which 
indicated the overshoot,  but in my case it was not related 
to the LP-100s fast response.  Even the old slow Bird saw it.


My solution came from Steve Kavanagh, and he got it from Gary Surrency 
at Elecraft.  Here is a snip of the thread:


-SNIP-

Thanks to advice from M0DHO, LA3ZA and Gary Surrency
at Elecraft the problem described in 


http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-12/msg00408.html


is now solved, or nearly so.  I still see a big jump
in SSB power between 10 and 11 watt settings, but the
power output is always under control (no power supply
buzzing and RF metering does not read 100 W peaks when
set for 11 W, for example).  No obvious signs of
splatter or distortion any more.  


I put a 1k resistor in series with the base of Q1 in
the KSB2 and put 3.3k in parallel with R9.  It's
pretty fiddly work on this compact board, but doable. 
This is in the middle of the range for R9 suggested by

Gary Surrency.  Probably I should go for the low end
of the suggested range (even more aggressive ALC).

73,
Steve VE3SMA

- SNIP -

In my case, I used the 1K and 3.3K values suggested, and it fixed the problem.  
Mine was also much
worse on 40M than anywhere else.

Of course, the usual advice of checking everything in the ALC circuit 
for bad solder or the wrong components
still applies.  I had already gone that route without results when 
Steve updated me.  Note that the information

originally came from Gary Surrency at Elecraft.

I hope this helps.

73,
Bill
K4DXU


Trevor Smithers wrote:

I have just installed a recently constructed KPA100 (including the 
latest upgrades)

and appear to have run into the erratic power control problem.

Using Tune + Display and an external LP100 meter, if I request 5w I 
get 5w out.
Increasing power to 11w so as to engage the pa I also get 11w out - 
so all seems

fine.

Switching to SSB, and speaking steadily into the mic, at a requested 
5w I get

approximately 5-7w out on each band.
However increasing the power to 11w I get the following:

80m  Req 11  Get 45
40m  Req 11  Get 80
20m  Req 11  Get 25
15m  Req 11  Get 30
10m  Req 11  Get 20

Reading back through the archive I see that others have encountered 
the same
problem but cannot see a definitive answer to the problem. Anyone 
have any

thoughts as to where to start looking.

73 to all
Trevor  G0KTN


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[Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread KJ3D
Good Morning Group,
 
I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near
future.  I have three questions.
 
1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain all the
bits to hook up to my K2?
 
2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?
 
3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the
K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?
 
OK, 3 and a half questions.
 
Thanks, es 72 (for now)
 
Tom, kj3d
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Gregg R. Lengling
#1no Y connectors and you will have everything to hook up the 2 kits
except for the Coaxial Cable to go from the K2 to the KAT100.

#2...No the existing ATU gets removed.

#3..You can place it almost anywhere in your shack...1 foot, 10 foot away.
You will have to make a control cable longer than the one described in the
manual for the tuner.  In that case you will probably have to supply your
own wire depending on the distance you want to remote it.

Gregg W9DHI

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 8:04 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Good Morning Group,
 
I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near
future.  I have three questions.
 
1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain all the
bits to hook up to my K2?
 
2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?
 
3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the
K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?
 
OK, 3 and a half questions.
 
Thanks, es 72 (for now)
 
Tom, kj3d


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed
and the KPA100 installs in place of it.

There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2
for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an
external EC2 enclosure.  That configuration does require the KIO2 in your
QRP K2, but it works well.  If you choose this configuration, your KAT2
stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the
ANT1 connector.

If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the
KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included).

The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it
will allow.  The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to
the KAT100.  You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and
that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at
the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire
is included too).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Good Morning Group,

 I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the near
 future.  I have three questions.

 1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits
 contain all the
 bits to hook up to my K2?

 2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?

 3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith the
 K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?

 OK, 3 and a half questions.

 Thanks, es 72 (for now)

 Tom, kj3d

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8:12 AM

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread KJ3D
Don, John  Gregg,

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  I think I will put the new stuff in
a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already
have the KIO2 installed.  Seems that might eliminate some of the heating
isues as well.

72/73,

Tom, kj3d 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM
To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Tom,

You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed
and the KPA100 installs in place of it.

There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2
for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an
external EC2 enclosure.  That configuration does require the KIO2 in your
QRP K2, but it works well.  If you choose this configuration, your KAT2
stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the
ANT1 connector.

If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the
KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included).

The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it
will allow.  The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to
the KAT100.  You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and
that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at
the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire
is included too).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Good Morning Group,

 I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the 
 near future.  I have three questions.

 1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain 
 all the bits to hook up to my K2?

 2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?

 3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith 
 the K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?

 OK, 3 and a half questions.

 Thanks, es 72 (for now)

 Tom, kj3d

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8:12 AM

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Re: [Elecraft] Vertical antennas

2007-03-04 Thread Cathy James

 As I'm sure you know, you can tell when the vertical antenna is


performing better; the SWR goes up. A lossy vertical will have a low
SWR because the high ground losses are in series with the radiation
resistance and the sum comes out perversely close to 50 Ohms. A low
loss vertical is around 30 Ohms.


Not exactly.  It more be more accurate to say that you can tell when
a short vertical (or otherwise loaded) antenna is performing better
because the low-SWR bandwidth (e.g., the range over which the SWR
is less than 2:1) decreases.

Yes, I'm nit-picking here, but I think it's important to be clear
on this.  With proper loading and matching, pretty much any usable
antenna can have 1:1 SWR on one specific frequency.  But short
antennas have narrow usable bandwidth unless they are very inefficient.

 That's why a horizontal dipole is usually preferred to a vertical if 
there's sufficient space

 to erect it.


That's the gotcha. If you have a horizontal dipole at the same height
as the top of a vertical dipole, in the broadside direction the
horizontal wins hands down, provided you have two supports high
enough to support the dipole. The current loop of the horizontal is
twice as high as the current loop of the vertical.



And, of course, those lucky Hams who can put their horizontal dipole up
about 1/2 wavelength where it works best get a huge advantage. At 20 degrees
it shows nearly 6 dB gain: equivalent to multiplying the transmitter power
by four times!


I work mostly local North American stations on 20 and below, but
once the 'spots come back I'll see what DX I can do on 10.  10 is
about the only band where my yard can realistically handle the
otherwise-mythical half-wave dipole half a wavelength high.

My G5RV and 20 meter Moxon are both up about 15 feet.  It's difficult
to give meaningful figure for G5RV height, partly because it slopes
down somewhat like an inverted-vee at both ends, but mostly because
the yard itself is not level and there is a sharp discontinuity more
or less under the feedpoint.

I think that there hasn't been enough discussion (in general, not
specifically on the Elecraft list) on the benefits of low beams
over low simple antennas.  Too many articles on beams start out
with the assumption that you can put them up a 1/2 wavelength high.
Given the increasing urbanization of America and the trend toward
smaller yards, fewer and few hams are going to be able to do this
in the future.


If they really want record breaking contest results, they should
use a rare DX call, a seaside location and female operators on
SSB. The female voice seems to give you the same effect as another
6 dB in transmitting power. We have a go for blood contesting
group here in Maine that deliberately schedules as many female
operators as possible on Field Day to run up their score; it
really works. Of course this requires YLs who do not mind insects
and outdoor plumbing, and those are few and far between.


smile

Perhaps I should try that some time.  Since I work
almost all digital modes and CW rather than SSB, I don't get
any advantage. :-)

Cathy
N5WVR


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Gregg R. Lengling
That's an excellent way to go, I did this for a friend and he loves it.
Only one thing you have to remember, when you use it as a QRO station it
automatically shuts off and bypasses the internal tuner, when you unplug
everything and go portable with it you must remember to turn the tuner back
on in the menu.  That's the only thing you have to remember.

Good Luck,

Gregg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:25 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Don, John  Gregg,

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  I think I will put the new stuff in
a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already
have the KIO2 installed.  Seems that might eliminate some of the heating
isues as well.

72/73,

Tom, kj3d 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM
To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Tom,

You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed
and the KPA100 installs in place of it.

There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2
for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an
external EC2 enclosure.  That configuration does require the KIO2 in your
QRP K2, but it works well.  If you choose this configuration, your KAT2
stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the
ANT1 connector.

If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the
KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included).

The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it
will allow.  The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to
the KAT100.  You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and
that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at
the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire
is included too).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Good Morning Group,

 I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the 
 near future.  I have three questions.

 1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain 
 all the bits to hook up to my K2?

 2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?

 3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith 
 the K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?

 OK, 3 and a half questions.

 Thanks, es 72 (for now)

 Tom, kj3d

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.6/709 - Release Date: 3/3/2007
8:12 AM

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Jesse Justiss

Does the new ATU have to be physically located next
to ...

25 feet is the limit on the control cable from a
discussion with Scott. Please verify or email support.




 

Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html 
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Re: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio

2007-03-04 Thread G3SJJ

Every time I try this I get an error message. Any thoughts?   Chris G3SJJ


http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2943570522939177086hl=en
  

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
You do *not* need to remove anything from your existing K2 cover. The KIO2,
ATU and the battery (if installed) can stay right there. What Don was saying
is that you get a NEW top cover in which the KPA100 is built and it mounts
in place of the current top cover. So you can change from a K2/100 to a
low-power K2 with built in ATU, battery and KIO2 in less than a minute for
going into the field! 

BTW, the KPA100 includes the KIO2 so you do not lose that interface when
adding the KPA100. 

That's the way Elecraft designed the system and it makes for a neat,
efficient and compact rig. 

If you want to run QRP, you can disable the KPA100 with a simple MENU
command or just turn down the POWER knob. If you want to use a low-current
power supply and ensure the KPA100 doesn't get switched on, just plug it
into the coaxial power connector you are now using instead of the Anderson
PowerPole connector on the KPA100. That isolates the KPA100 so it can't draw
power (the total drain on the K2 does go up a couple of hundred mA for some
ancillary circuits in the KPA100 that get power from the main K2 supply, but
the amplifier cannot switch on and draw current without 13 VDC at the
Anderson connector). 

As others noted, some have moved the KPA100 into a separate enclosure
anyway. I haven't played with that configuration, but it sounds like you'll
need to disconnect the KIO2 interface and switch your computer over to the
KPA100's connector anyway. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 7:25 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1


Don, John  Gregg,

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  I think I will put the new stuff in
a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already
have the KIO2 installed.  Seems that might eliminate some of the heating
isues as well.

72/73,

Tom, kj3d 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM
To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Tom,

You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed
and the KPA100 installs in place of it.

There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2
for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an
external EC2 enclosure.  That configuration does require the KIO2 in your
QRP K2, but it works well.  If you choose this configuration, your KAT2
stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the
ANT1 connector.

If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the
KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included).

The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it
will allow.  The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to
the KAT100.  You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and
that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at
the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire
is included too).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Good Morning Group,

 I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the
 near future.  I have three questions.

 1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain
 all the bits to hook up to my K2?

 2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?

 3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith
 the K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?

 OK, 3 and a half questions.

 Thanks, es 72 (for now)

 Tom, kj3d

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[Elecraft] My Faithful K2/100 has died!

2007-03-04 Thread Bruce McLaughlin
My K2/100 appears to have died in a manner of speaking.  It was working
perfectly up until recently.  Last weekend I decided to use it. When I
turned it on, the display showed the Elecraft test and then 7.167 L.
That was it!  There is no response to any of the buttons.  The frequency
cannot be changed.  There is no bar graph display and no signals.  It
does communicate with the computer in the sense that the VFO frequency
is displayed in my Log EQ program.  But that is it.

 

Preliminary reference to the trouble shooting guide suggests there may
be a problem involving U6 the big chip on the control board.  But I'm
not at all sure where to begin.  Someone suggested I might try a reset
first.

 

I sure would appreciate any suggestions as to how to start tracking down
the problem.  The unit has a serial number of just over 3000.  It has
been only lightly used and has not been abused.  So what happened is a
mystery to me.

 

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

 

Bruce - W8FU

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[Elecraft] KPA100 question

2007-03-04 Thread John Reiser
Hello everyone,

We are advised to re-tighten the screws that fasten the output transistors to 
the heat sink on the KPA100 after 10 to 12 hours of operation.  Does that mean 
10 to 12 hours with the radio powered on?  Or does it mean 10 to 12 hours of 
transmitting time?

Thanks and 73,

John, W2GW
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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 question

2007-03-04 Thread wayne burdick

The latter, John.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 4, 2007, at 10:36 AM, John Reiser wrote:


Hello everyone,

We are advised to re-tighten the screws that fasten the output 
transistors to the heat sink on the KPA100 after 10 to 12 hours of 
operation.  Does that mean 10 to 12 hours with the radio powered on?  
Or does it mean 10 to 12 hours of transmitting time?




---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] KDSP2, defaults to on

2007-03-04 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ

Hey Friends,

I'm wondering if there's a hidden switch somewhere that would allow
the KDSP2 to power-on in bypass (or off) mode? The manual says:

On power up, the KDSP2 will default to the first filter for each
mode. It will retain the current filter for each mode until power is
again cycled.

I find myself always bypassing the KDSP2 as soon as I power up the K2,
I'd much prefer to be able to enable it when needed rather than having
it there by default.

I don't expect there is, but in the off chance, I thought I'd ask.

Thanks!

Jeff N6GQ
K2/100 #5945
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ron and all,

Since you have not used the KPA100 mounted externally Ron, you likely did
not know - when the KPA100 is used externally to the K2, the cable to the
computer must come off the KIO2  (TXD and RXD are sent from the K2
microprocessor and those signals are not included in the KIO2 to KPA100
connection) - the KIO2 to KPA100 connection uses only 4 signals - AUXBUS,
12CTRL, VRFDET, and 8R.

In other words, the computer side of the 'Y' cable must connect to the K2
enclosure in all cases.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 As others noted, some have moved the KPA100 into a separate enclosure
 anyway. I haven't played with that configuration, but it sounds
 like you'll
 need to disconnect the KIO2 interface and switch your computer over to the
 KPA100's connector anyway.

 Ron AC7AC


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1:58 PM

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RE: [Elecraft] My Faithful K2/100 has died!

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bruce,

That is a result you would observe if the K2 were locked in transmit.  Check
to see if you have a problem with the PTT input or the paddle DOT input
first.  If you don't find anything obvious, let us know and we can likely
provide some other checks (but you will have to do some measurements for us.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 My K2/100 appears to have died in a manner of speaking.  It was working
 perfectly up until recently.  Last weekend I decided to use it. When I
 turned it on, the display showed the Elecraft test and then 7.167 L.
 That was it!  There is no response to any of the buttons.  The frequency
 cannot be changed.  There is no bar graph display and no signals.  It
 does communicate with the computer in the sense that the VFO frequency
 is displayed in my Log EQ program.  But that is it.



 Preliminary reference to the trouble shooting guide suggests there may
 be a problem involving U6 the big chip on the control board.  But I'm
 not at all sure where to begin.  Someone suggested I might try a reset
 first.



 I sure would appreciate any suggestions as to how to start tracking down
 the problem.  The unit has a serial number of just over 3000.  It has
 been only lightly used and has not been abused.  So what happened is a
 mystery to me.



 Thanks for any help and suggestions.



 Bruce - W8FU

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1:58 PM

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[Elecraft] KPA100-1 - Redux

2007-03-04 Thread KJ3D
Additional thanks to Ron, David and Jesse,

Since I don't anticipate portable ops, I now think I will just install the
KPA100 in the main box.  

Again, thanks to all for clearing up some confusion on my part.

73,

Tom,kj3d



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:25 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Don, John  Gregg,

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  I think I will put the new stuff in
a EC2 enclosure and leave the QRP K2 alone - particularily since I already
have the KIO2 installed.  Seems that might eliminate some of the heating
isues as well.

72/73,

Tom, kj3d 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:36 AM
To: KJ3D; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100-1

Tom,

You existing KAT2 (and everything else in the QRP K2 top cover) is removed
and the KPA100 installs in place of it.

There is another option available to you - if you want to retain the QRP K2
for portable use, then mount the KAT100-2 and the KPA100 together in an
external EC2 enclosure.  That configuration does require the KIO2 in your
QRP K2, but it works well.  If you choose this configuration, your KAT2
stays in place but is automatically bypassed with the output routed to the
ANT1 connector.

If you want the KPA100 mounted on the K2 instead of externally, order the
KAT100-1 (the lower height enclosure is included).

The KAT100 can be located anywhere in the shack that your cable length to it
will allow.  The kit includes all cables and connectors except the coax to
the KAT100.  You need a control cable between the K2 and the KAT100, and
that same cable will become a 'Y' cable if you also wire the connector at
the K2 end with the cable for attaching to a computer serial port (that wire
is included too).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Good Morning Group,

 I think I may purchase the 100 watt hat and the KAT100-1 ATU in the 
 near future.  I have three questions.

 1.  I hear talk of Y connectors, etc.  Will my two new kits contain 
 all the bits to hook up to my K2?

 2.  Does my existing ATU stay in the circuit?

 3.  Does the new ATU have to be physically located next to or beneith 
 the K2?  - can I place it - say a foot away?

 OK, 3 and a half questions.

 Thanks, es 72 (for now)

 Tom, kj3d

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8:12 AM

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[Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to an old K2 (#2592)

2007-03-04 Thread paul
What firmware upgrades are needed to add a KPA100 to a K2 (#2592, Rev A)?  
Current firmware version is 2.01H  1.02 (as shown in the display on power 
up). 

I have purchased (in addition to the KPA100) to bring the K2 up to Rev 
B:

K2ATOBKT (K2 rev A to B upgrade parts)
BFOMDKT  (K2 BFO  PLL upgrade)
E850138  (K2 temperature compensated PLL upgrade)
XFILMDKIT (2nd filter upgrade for the K2)

The last one is not necessary, I know.  

Upon reading the KPA100 manual, it appears that I need to purchase new 
firmware (K2FWMCIO $44) to make the upgrade work.  It seems to me when 
the KPA100 first came out, this firmware was part of the kit.  What 
happened?

I have an KSB2 (ssb upgrade, Rev D board, 1.04 firmware).  Does this also 
need an upgrade?  (FWSSB, $29)

I noticed that there is firmware for the K2 tuner (KAT2, $29).  Is this 
necessary also?

Paul
AD5IW
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[Elecraft] AGC Measurements

2007-03-04 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I preparation to install Dave White, VE6DRW's AGC modification, I thought that 
I would perform some measurements on my K2's AGC to get a baseline to measure 
changes once the mod is made. The results surprised me.

First off my K2 is serial # 5093, has the 160 Meter, SSB, noise blanker, and 
KAF2 audio filter modules installed and has no modifications. For 
measurements, a DL1 dummy load was connected to antenna connector. The mode 
was set to CW, the SSB filter OP1 selected, the attenuator switched on, AF 
and RF gain set to maximum, and the frequency set to 28.002 MHz. My 8V line 
measures 8.27 volts.

With the AGC threshold voltage set at 3.80 volts, the AF output averaged 11.9 
mV with the AGC on and 13.4 mV with the AGC off. A difference of 1.5 mV or 
1.0 dB.

Regardless of where I set the AGC threshold voltage via R1, the K2 always has 
more gain with the AGC off than with the AGC on. The lower the AGC threshold 
voltage the less the difference between AGC off and on.

In accordance with the MC1350 datasheet, to find the maximum gain of the 
MC1350, I grounded pin 5 of the MC1350 via R4 on the Control Board. I lifted 
the end of R4 on the U2 side and attached a ground.

The gain increased slightly. With the AGC on the AF output averaged 12.9 mV 
about 1 mV higher (0.7 dB) than with the normal AGC circuit. What was 
interesting was that with the AGC off, the AF output averaged 13.9 mV, 
about 1 mV higher (0.6 dB) than with the AGC on. With the AGC off the gain of 
the K2 was about 0.3 dB higher.

With the output of U2A pin 1 disconnected at R4, I would have expected no 
difference with the AGC switched on or off. My guess is that the AGC mixer U1 
(SA612) is loading down the IF OUT lead connected to pin 8 of the MC1350 
which is reducing the level of the IF signal sent to the product detector.

My AGC circuit is slightly different than most. To get the AGC to work, 
Elecraft had me change C8 from 39 pF to 10 pF. I wonder if that may have 
anything to do with the difference in receiver gain between AGC on and off.

Next I connected the 8 volt rail to one end of a 20 Kohm trimmer and the other 
end to ground. The wiper was then connected to the lifted side of R4. The 
trimmer was adjusted to find the AGC voltages where gain of the MC1350 was 
maximum and minimum.

The maximum gain occurred at 3.25 volts or less and the minimum gain at 4.45 
volts or higher. This is a range of 1.2 volts for full swing of the AGC 
action of the MC1350.

Resistor R4 was reinstalled and R1 set to 3.80 volts. The AGC voltage at U2A 
pin 1 was measured throughout the range of the RF gain control. At maximum 
gain it measured 3.80 volts and at minimum 4.84 volts. A range of 1.04 volts 
and a high enough voltage to ensure that the MC1350 would reach minimum gain.

With R1 set to 3.25 volts, the RF gain would now only reach 3.99 volts at 
minimum gain. This is not enough to reach the minimum gain of the MC1350 and 
the range of the RF gain control is now only 0.74 volts.

Working backwards, and setting the AGC voltage to 4.45 volts with the RF gain 
control at minimum gain, the AGC threshold voltage becomes 3.6 volts. However, 
when adjusting R1 with the RF gain at minimum, it becomes clear that 4.45 
volts is not enough to minimize the gain of the MC1350. The minimum gain 
occurs at about 4.85 volts. This corresponds to a AGC threshold voltage of 
3.80 volts. I suspect that U2 is playing a role in the different minimum gain 
voltages seen here as compared to the directly applied voltage on the MC1350 
via R4.

That then made me question if R1 could be set to MC1350 maximum gain. Looks 
like 3.6 volts or so gets there. However at this setting the RF gain control 
does not have enough range to minimize the gain of the MC1350.

So it would appear that to get the full range of gain of the MC1350, the range 
of the RF gain control must be controlled. Dave's mod allows the minimum and 
maximum voltages of the RF gain control to be set as needed. Rather than set 
these limits to certain voltages, they should be set for maximum and minimum 
gain.

What the effects on the calibration and linearity of the S-meter are yet to be 
determined.

Installing Dave's mod will be my next K2 adventure.

Darrell  VA7TO  K2 #5093

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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RE: [Elecraft] Adding KPA100 to an old K2 (#2592)

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

I believe the Elecraft rule still is: If you need new firmware when ordering
an additional OPTION (not upgrade or mod), then the firmware will be
provided at no extra cost.

Many (probably most) of those ordering KPA100s already have firmware
adequate to support it (Firmware 2.02 or later is required for the KPA100).
So you should have gotten new firmware with your KPA100 purchase.  If you
did not mention your current firmware version, it would not have been packed
with your order.  I do not believe Elecraft attempts to track who has what
firmware level anymore, although they did initially - with over 6000 K2s out
there, the tracking would be difficult (and likely incorrect).

A call or email to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] referencing your KPA100
purchase invoice and your present firmware level is likely to yield new
firmware for your K2 at no cost.

I strongly recommend the Keying waveshape mod (K2KEYMODKT) in addition to
your other mod kits for use with the KPA100 installed, keyclicks that are
not a problem at 10 watts can become a problem at 100 watts, and your nearby
fellow hams may compliain about your clicks.

The KSB2 and KAT2 firmware can stay as-is, but if you are upgrading your K2,
my opinion is that you should go 'all the way' with it, the incremental cost
is small in comparison to the total work required for the upgrade.  It is
easier to do it all at once instead of piecemeal.  When I upgrade a K2, I
install even the optional sections - I have never had one that did not
respond nicley and behave like a brand new K2 - install the AF Gain wiring
change and the Extremely Strong Signal Handling Diodes (you will need 2
1N4148 diodes).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 What firmware upgrades are needed to add a KPA100 to a K2 (#2592,
 Rev A)?
 Current firmware version is 2.01H  1.02 (as shown in the display on power
 up).

 I have purchased (in addition to the KPA100) to bring the K2 up to Rev
 B:

 K2ATOBKT (K2 rev A to B upgrade parts)
 BFOMDKT  (K2 BFO  PLL upgrade)
 E850138  (K2 temperature compensated PLL upgrade)
 XFILMDKIT (2nd filter upgrade for the K2)

 The last one is not necessary, I know.

 Upon reading the KPA100 manual, it appears that I need to purchase new
 firmware (K2FWMCIO $44) to make the upgrade work.  It seems to me when
 the KPA100 first came out, this firmware was part of the kit.  What
 happened?

 I have an KSB2 (ssb upgrade, Rev D board, 1.04 firmware).  Does this also
 need an upgrade?  (FWSSB, $29)

 I noticed that there is firmware for the K2 tuner (KAT2, $29).  Is this
 necessary also?

 Paul
 AD5IW
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FW: [Elecraft] Really OT Ham Radio

2007-03-04 Thread Werner Denise Haschke

I have tried this link 5 times and it stops a different spots and does not
continue.

 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2943570522939177086hl=en

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[Elecraft] N-GEN

2007-03-04 Thread Dennis Vavra
Hey Elecrafters,
I just completed the N-GEN mini-module.The kit went
together nicely. Although I have not yet tested it out
on a transceiver, I assume it works because the
LED lights when I turn the switch on. Tomorrow I will 
try it out on my Ten-Tec Argo 556, and then maybe
start on the DL1. I will probably order the swr meter
in the near future. 73 from central OK.
Dennis Vavra,  AD5LY
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[Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help

2007-03-04 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Hello:

 

I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA
quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when keying the
transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what
position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV. 

 

There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone point me in
the right direction ?

 

Thanks and 73, 

 

Jamie  WB4YDL 

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Re: [Elecraft] Vetical Antennas

2007-03-04 Thread James Duffey

Dave - You Wrote:

But I can't help thinking that feeding the pole from the top would  
be workable and perhaps more efficient: I've seen this done with a  
beam and tower arrangement in which the beam is isolated from the  
tower and an auto tuner fitted between.


Yes that would work. I was not quite envisioning what you were  
asking. a relay to short the vertical to the radial field and then  
feeding that against the pole would work, perhaps with some added  
capacitance or inductance to make it all come out in the band you  
want. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5










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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Measurements

2007-03-04 Thread Darrell Bellerive
On March 4, 2007 12:25 pm, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
 I suspect that U2 is playing a role in the
 different minimum gain voltages seen here as compared to the directly
 applied voltage on the MC1350 via R4.

Just figured out why the voltages were so different. I was measuring at pin 5 
of U2 rather than pin 1. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Well, that seems to be the 
only way I really learn. Make a mistake and correct it. And just when I was 
beginning to think I was understanding this AGC thing. :-)

I'm off to work now, but, will remeasure the voltages and post the results as 
soon as I can.

Darrell  VA7TO  K2 #5093

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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RE: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jamie,

If you are dealing with an XV50, you should not have an R39 installed. There
is no quiescent Current Adjustment for the XV50 - see the statement right
under the 'Part V - ...' title.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD
 Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 6:57 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help


 Hello:



 I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA
 quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when
 keying the
 transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what
 position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV.



 There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone
 point me in
 the right direction ?



 Thanks and 73,



 Jamie  WB4YDL

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RE: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help

2007-03-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi, Jamie:

First, troubleshooting, voltage tables, etc., are in the Owner's Manual.
Their location is called out in the assembly manual on page 53: Final Test
and Alignment, in case you run into a problem like this. 

Be sure you incorporated Errata C-4 into the Owner's Manual. It includes an
updated schematic diagram for the XV50 that shows R39 and new voltage tables
for troubleshooting. 

My first guess would be that you left jumper W1 out. That would open the
bias circuit to the RF power amplifier module. It should have been installed
as the second step on page 39 (in the assembly manual) of the building
procedure. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:57 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help


Hello:

 

I'm in the process of aligning my transverter and I'm stuck on the RF PA
quiescent current adjustment, where R39 is adjusted to 20 mV when keying the
transverter. Before keying, I get 7 mV; after keying, no matter what
position R39 is in, I get only 12 mV. 

 

There is no troubleshooting section in the manual. Could someone point me in
the right direction ?

 

Thanks and 73, 

 

Jamie  WB4YDL 

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FW: [Elecraft] XV50 Transverter Help

2007-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sorry guys, I was looking at an old book and did not realize it - ignore my
last post.
Saved this time by Ron - thank you.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

Oops.. I think you're using an old book, Don!

They had to change the XV50 design because the old module was no longer
available. The new module has the quiescent current adjustment. Errata C-4
to the Owner's manual has the updated schematic, voltage chart, etc. The
current Assembly Manual (Rev C) was updated in January to incorporate all
the build changes needed for the new module.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Jamie,

If you are dealing with an XV50, you should not have an R39 installed. There
is no quiescent Current Adjustment for the XV50 - see the statement right
under the 'Part V - ...' title.

73,
Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March 4th 5th, 2007

2007-03-04 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening,
   That was a good time.  I am feeling the effects of a woodstove too  
warm, a very good dinner, and not enough sleep from the night before.  By  
the time I was finishing up the roll call I could not get AB9V sent  
correctly.  Sorry Mike!  But as I was writing up the lists and filling the  
database I noticed Mike has a KX1 which would probably fit into his carry  
on luggage for his trip to Florida.  Mike, you are in luck, you can check  
in for the next two weeks from the beach :)  I have heard salt water  
grounds are the very best kind.  Now to find an umbrella drink with a very  
tall pole.  That can hold your vertical wire in place and you can lay a  
counter poise into either the Gulf or the Atlantic.  I don't think they  
will mind.
   QSB was the rule on almost every contact tonight.  But I do believe  
Scott had it the worst.  Minnesota seems to be sucking the RF right out of  
the aether for the last few weeks.  Where are Paul Bunyan and Babe when  
you need them?  Did they move to the Pacific Northwest?  Maybe if you  
start a bonfire under the wires of your antenna the RF won't fall on the  
ground in frozen hertz.


   Before I am shot for bad punning: on to the lists =

On 14050 kHz at 2255z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345
VE7ZWA - Dale - BC - K1 - 1759
W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - 5568
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
N5BZ - BZ - LA - K2 - 5884  QNI #5!
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
W1BPJ - Terry - CO - K1 - 1800
K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152QNI #80!!!
UA0CH - Ivan - RS - ?

On 7045.50 kHz at 0155z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767   QNI #10!!
K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942
K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
N5BZ - BZ - LA - K2 - 5884
W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - 5568
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K2 - 755
K0NEB - Joe - NE - KX1 - 1493
K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608
AK2B - Tom - NY - K2 - 4482
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
WD4LST - Pete - FL - K2 - 5813
NM7N - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227
NK6A - Don - CA - K2 - 1217
K3OOL - Craig - PA - K2 - 4790
WB8RTJ - Jim - OH - K2 - 5886
W6WXZ - Jack - CA - Kenwood
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993

   If you would have asked me earlier in the week if we could have done  
this well I don't think I would have agreed.  Pretty good numbers for the  
bottom of the solar cycle with a solar stream disrupting our ionosphere.   
There was some SSB QRM on 40 meters but nowhere near as bad as expected.   
When it got too bad I passed to Tom and he ran the eastern folks for me.   
As always if there are any errors (there may be a few because I am about  
to fall nose first into the keyboard) please email me and I'll fix the  
database.


Thank you folks, it is truly fun to work you all,
   73,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS (Net Control 5th Class)

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[Elecraft] WTB: Heathkit SB-300 SB-301 SB-303 SB- 401 Parts

2007-03-04 Thread Andy GM0NWI
Hi From Freezin' Bonnie Scotland...

I am looking to buy one of the above enclosures (think most are from the
late
60's or 70's) for an up-and-coming project...

Also would be interested in the inside chassis part...

If anyone has one of these lying around surplus to their needs please drop
Me a line at the e-mail address below with your requirements..

Thanks  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Andy
GM0NWI   

K2 Fully Loaded QRP S/n 01432
K2 Fully Loaded QRP S/n 05469



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