Re: [Elecraft] Nabble
John Reilly wrote: When I select Nabble from the Elecraft Reflector webpage, I no longer get a list of messages. What changed, or better yet, what am I doing wrong? - John Nabble is now on new servers with an updated forum software: http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-f365791.html I suspect the link on the Elecraft site has not been updated. (ps. posting this via Nabble myself, it works fine but sometimes doesn't thread posts properly). 73 Dave G3YMC -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Nabble-tp734023p734984.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Nabble
g3ymc wrote: I suspect the link on the Elecraft site has not been updated. (ps. posting this via Nabble myself, it works fine but sometimes doesn't thread posts properly). Better still, Nabble could be embedded in the Elecraft site so it appears to be part of it. This page http://www.nabble.com/help/Answer.jtp?id=36 explains how it's done. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Nabble-tp734023p735242.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 52, Issue 28
Hi, according to preview discussion on noise blanker of K3 I decided to write few words also as I have lot of experiences with that I guess... My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres) so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB ! A few points as the results of my tests and final settings which I am using on my K3 untill now. 1. Only the combination of the dsp and IF is able to kill the el.fence pulses 2. dsp/t1-7 does not help in my case with any combination of IF values 3. IF NAR/MED/WID does not help if values are lower than 4... 4. dsp/t2-5,6,7 or t3-5,6,7 values are really agressive and it suppressing the pulses effectively if its in combination with IF setting MED or WID with higher than 4 values. My standard setting to be able to live on the bands together with el.fence close to my antennas is: dsp t3-5 IF WID4 In case of dry weather I must switch to: dsp t3-7 IF WID5 THE MAIN PROBLEM IS that with the values higher than 5 on dsp/IF it affecting the receiving signals a lot. Even strong sigs on the bands are coloured a lot and its not copyable for speed higher than 30 wpm. The weak signals are destroyed with agressive dsp/IF setting so much that its useless on lowbands unfortunately. I am NOT anxious or even dissapointed with that as Elecraft boys still working on the DSP/IF noise blanker function code I guess and it takes time to debug it. 73, Petr OK1RP K3 #778 -- Petr Ourednik [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- http://ok1rp.blog.cz (Hamradio) http://topband.blog.cz (160m) http://www.qsl.net/ok1rp ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K3] noise blanker
Hi, according to preview discussion on noise blanker of K3 I decided to write few words also as I have lot of experiences with that I guess... My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres) so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB ! A few points as the results of my tests and final settings which I am using on my K3 untill now. 1. Only the combination of the dsp and IF is able to kill the el.fence pulses 2. dsp/t1-7 does not help in my case with any combination of IF values 3. IF NAR/MED/WID does not help if values are lower than 4... 4. dsp/t2-5,6,7 or t3-5,6,7 values are really agressive and it suppressing the pulses effectively if its in combination with IF setting MED or WID with higher than 4 values. My standard setting to be able to live on the bands together with el.fence close to my antennas is: dsp t3-5 IF WID4 In case of dry weather I must switch to: dsp t3-7 IF WID5 THE MAIN PROBLEM IS that with the values higher than 5 on dsp/IF it affecting the receiving signals a lot. Even strong sigs on the bands are coloured a lot and its not copyable for speed higher than 30 wpm. The weak signals are destroyed with agressive dsp/IF setting so much that its useless on lowbands unfortunately. I am NOT anxious or even dissapointed with that as Elecraft boys still working on the DSP/IF noise blanker function code I guess and it takes time to debug it. 73, Petr OK1RP K3 #778 -- Petr Ourednik [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://topband.blog.cz (160m) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: CAUTION ABOUT Open-wire feeders through a wall
I may have posted this in the past, but it's fitting for the recent discussion about feeders I made two 1/4 brass rods to bring my feeders through the wall of the shack with 2 (hollow) porcelain cones on both sides of the wall. The wall is of the usual construction with 2x4 studs and foil-backed fiberglass insulation. The outside wall is plywood with cedar shingles. I drilled 1/4 holes through the wall to pass the rods, never giving a thought to the aluminum foil on the insulation. The installation worked well for many years, but I began to see signs of a possible intermittent connection in the feeder/antenna system. The antenna is an 80M 1/2 wave zepp that's up 65' and can be raised/lowered by ropes. After several attempts to find something loose and pondering the issue, it dawned on me that the foil might be coming in contact with one of the feed-thru rods. I removed both rods from the wall and was astonished to find that one of them showed signs of arcing and heat discoloration. ( I had ran a KW in the past.) From the location of the arcing marks and the discoloration it was obvious that RF had been flashing over to the foil! The fix was to drill larger holes (1/2) and slip 1/4 ID, 1/16 wall Tygon tubing over the rods that was long enough to extend into the hollow portion of the cones. BTW, I use a pair of serious high-inductance RF chokes from each side of the feeder to the station's ground system. (2 copper strap, 17 ground rods, literally thousands of feet of copper counterpoise/radials. I've had one lightning hit in 30+ years. There are four towers on the property in the 75' to 100' range, but the hit came into the house on the phone line. Killed all the phones except the real Ma Bell's, all the computer modems and a range hood's speed control. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Configure KRX3(sub receiver)
Mike Miller-14 wrote: I am confused about what the setting should be in Config Menu for the Subreceiver (KRX3) if you want the subreceiver to listen to the same antenna as the main receiver. Use CONFIG:KRX3 ANT=BNC 73, Barry N1EU -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Configure-KRX3%28sub-receiver%29-tp734445p735374.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Balanced Tuners
My approach to wire antennas has been pragmatic since, as a 13-year-old novice, I tried to load up an 80 meter dipole fed with TV twin lead connected to an unbalanced tank circuit. I now have an 80-meter doublet fed with open wire line. A 4:1 balun sits outside the shack wall - I had it inside the shack but experienced troubles with RF-modulated audio in my Kenwood MC-60 mic. Before K3 I used a 756ProII. Its tuner could not match the antenna very well. I therefore had to use an MFJ tuner with balun. Its settings were not predictable - a short frequency excursion often required retuning. I knew the K3 tuner would work because of experience with K2s. I get low SWR at the input to the KAT3 on all bands through 6 meters. I do not know how well the setup works above 15 meters due to lack of activity. It's great on 20 and 17 meters. A little touchy on 40 (second harmonic) but good performance. Lovely on 75 phone - except it picks up too much static(!) My tribander sits unassembled in the garage. I am working on rotating the property for directional control(!!) My point - an amateur can get good results with wire antennas. Maybe not the best, but good. They are cheap and fairly sturdy. Use stranded wire. If open-wire fed they can work on many bands when impedance is transformed from balanced to unbalanced and a good tuner is used. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V
Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna (they *are* part of the antenna). So get out your antenna analyzer and cut one radial a bit on the long side - attach only that one radial to the vertical and shorten it until you have the correct readings on the antenna analyzer. Cut the second radial to the same length - move to the next band and do the same thing until you are done. Note that the radials can interact on a multiband setup (just like parallel dipoles), so tune the lowest bands first and move upward in frequency one band at a time. The twinlead solution does work, but suffers badly from interaction. 73, Don W3FPR Jerry Flanders wrote: At 04:54 PM 8/19/2008, Vic K2VCO wrote: Niel Skousen wrote: I'm installing a used Butternut HF-6v, and the location / elevation would work with the CPK raised counterpoise. So I'm looking for a counterpoise kit for a B.Nut HF-6V.. Also, wanting to add 6m, but that's trivial, unless someone has it sitting around You don't need an expensive 'kit'! Just take any old wire and make two 1/4 wavelength radials for each band -- a total of 12 radials. Try to make them as symmetrical as possible, with the two 40 meter radials opposite each other, etc. The ends of the radials must be well-insulated, since even though they are connected to the coax braid at the center, they will develop high-ish voltages at the ends. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Details on making a multiband radial from twin-lead are at: http://www.bencher.com/pdfs/00366IZV.pdf Jerry W4UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] paddle/key combo question re: k1
I tried to do the same thing with the K2. I wired up a parallel junction box and plugged my paddles, straight key and bug into the box with one line going to the rig. I used diodes in the box as recommended to allow the manual keys to work with the K2's keyer. It worked but wasn't reliable as the keyer sometimes got confused. I going with 2 simple solutions: 1. Put the paddle away, use the bug and straight key only. 2. Buy a K3 (which has separate inputs for each). A third solution exists which also works wonderfully - use an external keyer and wire that in parallel with the manual keys, feeding the K1 in manual mode. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - -Original Message- From: Ben Harold - KG4BYN i can get it to work just fine in straight key mode, but the k1 can't handle the config for the paddles. note: the straight is in parallel with the dah side of the paddle. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Two small KAT2 issues [K2]
Vic, It seems the .001 uf capacitors have gotten fatter over the years and now they will not fit between the header and the offending socket. Replace C45 and C60 with disc capacitors if you have them or use most any smaller bodied .001 uf capacitors at those locations. For the lockwashers - put one lockwasher between the standoff and one of the boards, it matters not which board for the lockwasher is only a device to make the standoff just a bit longer. I prefer to put the lockwasher on the inside of the L/C board because most of the time I remove the screws from the control board only and it is difficult putting lockwashers in place if they are between the board and the standoff there. 73, Don W3FPR Vic K2VCO wrote: I'm building a KAT2, which I haven't done for a while. I noticed two things: 1) The capacitor supplied for C60, 1000 pf, is way too fat to fit between J4 and the microprocessor socket. Either a smaller capacitor should be supplied (I used one from my junkbox) or it should be mounted on the bottom of the board. 2) The manual says to put the lockwasher between the board and the standoff when assembling the control board. But when attaching the LC board it says Secure the L–C board to the Control board standoffs using two 4-40 screws and two #4 split lock washers. These lock washers go between the standoffs and the PC board, *not* between the PC board and screws as on the control board. Well, which is it? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] paddle/key combo question re: k1
Ben, A question about keying a K1 *is* directly related to this reflector. The K1 is an Elecraft product. There is a 'diode solution' that may work for you (see the K2 manual), but something more reliable is a small external keyer. I like the K1EL keyers because they provide Ultimatic mode. 73, Don W3FPR Ben Harold - KG4BYN wrote: i'm not certain anyone can address this problem, but its - apparently - an issue related to k1's and k2's. i recently received a really nice new lta crdo key/paddle combo. the main objective was to be able to easily toggle between straight key and paddles on the k1. no go! i can get it to work just fine in straight key mode, but the k1 can't handle the config for the paddles. note: the straight is in parallel with the dah side of the paddle. anyway, i've heard the combo needs some minor rewiring to work with the k1. does anyone have one of these combos and experienced the same issue? if so, i'd really like to know how to rewire it. i am, of course, probably - overthinking - and missing something simple. this isn't something directly related to the forum, but i figured the best place to ask was --- here. many thanks! ben 73 DE KG4BYN - NAQCC#1800 - SKCC#4519 - FPQRP#1651 - ARS#2301 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Which rig is Elecraft's best value?
Pretty subjective, ea? Yes, the K3 is the best performer, but I wonder if it is really the most bang for the buck. Is it the best deal? Does it deliver the most fun per dollar? I'm actually thinking the award goes to the K2/10. You get to build it (really build it) and it's performance is simply great. The K1 is a great 2nd / portable / QRP rig but isn't really fulfilling enough to be a main or only rig. The K2 is good enough and provides a lot of performance / fun at a low cost. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3
The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit the site to power up the radios. That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored. An ideal solution would have these attributes: -- if the radio was powered up when the +13 Vdc supply voltage disappeared, then... -- when +13 Vdc reappears, wait 3 seconds, and then power-up the radio. 73, -- Eric K3NA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] GORC Iditarod 2009 Challenge Mushers
Hello all, The GIC-2009 has three mushers that have registered for the challenge. On the starting line and waiting for the start gun are: Musher #1: WA3WSJ Musher #2: M5PLY Musher #3: NT3O All have sent in their applications and are ready to race their sleds and dogs around the globe! Please remember that October 1st, 2008 is the deadline for GORC to receive your entry application. For additional info about this very unique amateur radio challenge click on the link. http://www.wa3wsj.org/GORC_Iditraod2009.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ The Big GORC #001 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3
G'day, My handbook (p18) gives details on how to turn the K3 on and off by remote control. Regards, Mike VP8NO - Original Message - From: Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 9:02 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3 | The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a | problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit | the site to power up the radios. | | That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored. | | An ideal solution would have these attributes: | -- if the radio was powered up when the +13 Vdc supply voltage | disappeared, then... | -- when +13 Vdc reappears, wait 3 seconds, and then power-up the radio. | | 73, | -- Eric K3NA | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com | Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.5/1618 - Release Date: 18/08/2008 06:51 | | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it themselves? David G4CWB (K3) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which rig is Elecraft's best value?
I think I agree with the K2/10 being the best QRP rig ever made. And, as you said, it is good enough to be the main rig. When the bands are open, the 10 to 15 watts seems to be enough for plenty of QSOs and some DX. It has a built-in tuner, battery, keyer, etc., and can run in the battery-saver mode which helps. Eventually, I think the K3 will be the ultimate all-in-one-box rig. I look forward to the time when I can: 1. Connect the K3 to my ladder line without balun heating, balun loss or without needing the manual balanced tuner. Then I can take advantage of the KAT3's remembering its settings from band to band. This might be solved with the addition of a better balun here. 2. Listen to AM BCB and SWL in hi-fi sound. The KXV3 will help the AM BCB sensitivity. The K3 has so many features (software updates, NB, NR, AFX, general coverage, data modes, small footprint, nice looking display, passband tuning, roofing filter selectivity, etc etc ) that it is hard to beat as the ultimate rig operating on a power supply. I am sure that you will get plenty of opinions on this one! 73, John W2XS I'm actually thinking the award goes to the K2/10. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Which-rig-is-Elecraft%27s-best-value--tp735557p735728.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KRX3 receiver - katiegram arrival
Dear All, just got my confirmation of imminent delivery of KRX3. Order on 1st July 2007 with 50% pre-payment on K3 which turned out to be ser. 499 Andrew Forrest M1KAZ (K2 #3679,K3 #0499) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Katie Gram KRX3
For those tracking: Ordered KRX3 with K3/100: 6/22/07 Confirmation of KRX3 order email from Katie: 8/18/08 Shipping confirmation received: 8/19/08 Scheduled delivery: 8/25/08 DVR Still backordered. 73, Terry, W0FM K3/100 #474 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Questio when using a Heil Proset
Hi Ross, Looks like you have to switch OFF the bias. Use Main Menu item MIC SEL to do that If the MH2 works OK that means Bias is ON now. For the Heil ProSet (with #4 or #5 dyn. element) you might need the HI range mic gain (you can set that in the same menu). See p.51 of the Owner's Manual (rev.D). -- Enno, PF5X K3 #1263 I have just received my K3 and have been using it on data, and it is working well, But I have a problem, when trying to use the Heil Proset it receives ok but when I try to use the PTT I get a loud audio noise over the top of my speech, it sounds like someone giving a loud raspberry. Trying the MH2 hand mic everything works perfectly, there is no noise and using the monitor, my speech sounds normal. The problem with the Proset also occurs if I try and turn on the K3 manually. Ideas please, what have I set up incorrectly, or is it the headset? Regards to all Ross ZL1WN mail2web.com Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft® Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3
Eric, The situation should not be a problem for remote stations that are controlled by a computer or some other type of semi-intelligent device. The K3 has a built-in Remote Power ON. After restoration of power, ACC pin 8 can be pulled to ground to activate the Remote Power ON. See page 18 in the manual. Use of that input avoids the issues about transients and other problems that might be present when power is restored. 73, Don W3FPR Eric Scace K3NA wrote: The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit the site to power up the radios. That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored. An ideal solution would have these attributes: -- if the radio was powered up when the +13 Vdc supply voltage disappeared, then... -- when +13 Vdc reappears, wait 3 seconds, and then power-up the radio. 73, -- Eric K3NA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Questio when using a Heil Proset
Ross, If the bias turns out to be your problem, know that you can run the Heil Proset from the rear panel jacks and the MH2 from the Front Panel mic jack. The bias settings for the two mic inputs can be different. Just decide which mic you want to use and select that one in the menu - it is quick and easy. 73, Don W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Ross, Looks like you have to switch OFF the bias. Use Main Menu item MIC SEL to do that If the MH2 works OK that means Bias is ON now. For the Heil ProSet (with #4 or #5 dyn. element) you might need the HI range mic gain (you can set that in the same menu). See p.51 of the Owner's Manual (rev.D). -- Enno, PF5X K3 #1263 I have just received my K3 and have been using it on data, and it is working well, But I have a problem, when trying to use the Heil Proset it receives ok but when I try to use the PTT I get a loud audio noise over the top of my speech, it sounds like someone giving a loud raspberry. Trying the MH2 hand mic everything works perfectly, there is no noise and using the monitor, my speech sounds normal. The problem with the Proset also occurs if I try and turn on the K3 manually. Ideas please, what have I set up incorrectly, or is it the headset? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Software Upgrades
I have upgraded to every firmware beta and never had a problem. David Wilburn K4DGW BOB PHILBROOK wrote: After reading countless reflector comments about firmware upgrades and releases, it appears to me that in many instances such so called upgrades are two steps forward and one in reverse. You know the drill, fix this problem, add a new feature, and then find that something that worked in previous versions does not function as expected and now demands a fix and another firmware version. Personally, I would like to see fewer firmware releases and more time spent vetting firmware before it is released. Firmware upgrades should be two steps forward -- period! The rush to add new features and fix bugs in firmware appears to me to be too rushed to be efficient and effective. Tell me fellows, why the rush? Bob, K9PAG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] paddle/key combo question re: k1
2. Buy a K3 (which has separate inputs for each). I have a set of paddles and a straight key both plugged into the K3 all the time. Both work fine. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Software Upgrades
Until a few days ago, I have only used fully released software. However, because I now have the KRX3 installed, I needed to update my K3 with Beta software. No big deal! The instructions for doing this are very clear. And other than the extra (and very minimal) time it takes to download and unzip the files, loading the Beta software was just as easy as loading the released software. I'm using the Elecraft USB-to-serial adapter and Windows Vista operating system. Phil - AD5X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which rig is Elecraft's best value?
This is something that I have been thinking about recently. I have the K2/10 and I don't consider it to be a QRP rig. If it were to put out five watts or less then I would call it a QRP rig. For me, it works great and 10 to 15 watts is all I need, even with the current band conditions. It just makes it that much more fun! The only option that I have installed is the SSB board. I have also had unsolicited great audio reports with it. I've thought about maybe getting the DSP board but, I have on outboard DSP unit that I use and to be honest, I don't like DSP all that much. I also have an Autek audio filter that works great with the K2. So, I pretty much have what I want. Is it the best bang for the buck? For me it is and as you said, you build it yourself. I order my K2 a couple of days before Elecraft announced the K3. It is #6113 and I'm wondering how many K2's have been sold since then. It seems that they are still selling them even with the K3 on the scene. Some people still like to build and some people don't. It's a fun and simple rig to operate. I operate mostly CW, however. Gary, N7HTS On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 05:41:34 -0700 Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Pretty subjective, ea? Yes, the K3 is the best performer, but I wonder if it is really the most bang for the buck. Is it the best deal? Does it deliver the most fun per dollar? I'm actually thinking the award goes to the K2/10. You get to build it (really build it) and it's performance is simply great. The K1 is a great 2nd / portable / QRP rig but isn't really fulfilling enough to be a main or only rig. The K2 is good enough and provides a lot of performance / fun at a low cost. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Mojo Truck - OT
If this was a Burdick designed truck, this is how it would be. ??? ;-) http://tinyurl.com/6qz7n6 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V
Hi Don (and all who have offered advice help) Thanks to all for the input that has been offered. Based on some of the comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to seek additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated with a compromise antenna environment. I'm installing a used HF-6v in a CCR environment, so I have some environment limitations. The CCR 'enforcement' committee is not horribly aggressive, but if I don't aggravate the situation, I'm much better off. I have a 24' tree, with some 3-4' bushes at the base, in a desert/rock landscaped front yard. The back has no 'cover' yet, and antenna's are more visible in spite of a fence. The plan is to install the antenna obscured by the tree, in the front yard. Given the landscaping, ground mounted with a full radial system is not possible so elevating the antenna as high as possible without guys or objectionable visibility wash chosen. My last HF-6V had 32 ea 32' buried radials, wish I could reproduce that ! So, the HF6 will be mounted about 4' off the ground, a full elevated radial system is not possible. Choices seem to be the CPK solution from Butternut or a modified radial system. Two options are being considered on the modified radials. First, 3 tuned radials (either individual wires for 40/15, 30, 20, 15,10 or the Butternut tuned twinlead variety) could be connected at the base of the antenna, then run down (hidden in the bushes) at a 60 degree angle to ground level, then run under/around the rocks. Performance is expected to be better than the CPK, but still a compromise. Routing is not linear. Tuning of this radial environment is expected to be a bear ! The second, the CPK, is expected to be enhanced by the low elevation, but NOT as effective as a good ground radial system. I might be able to enhance this configuration by laying out a psuedo radial set of 6-10 8' wires at the base of the 4' mast, which would more accurately be a surface capacitive element to enhance the CPK's effect. In neither case will the near field ground losses be impacted. There are some spiral wound counterpoise idea's out on the web, as well as some thoughts on constant angle spirals, which are tempting, but at this juncture, I expect to lean to the CPK to get it up and running, with spirals and experiments to follow... So any additional input, idea's, are solicited and welcome Thanks again all, Niel Don Wilhelm wrote: Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna (they *are* part of the antenna). So get out your antenna analyzer and cut one radial a bit on the long side - attach only that one radial to the vertical and shorten it until you have the correct readings on the antenna analyzer. Cut the second radial to the same length - move to the next band and do the same thing until you are done. Note that the radials can interact on a multiband setup (just like parallel dipoles), so tune the lowest bands first and move upward in frequency one band at a time. The twinlead solution does work, but suffers badly from interaction. 73, Don W3FPR Jerry Flanders wrote: At 04:54 PM 8/19/2008, Vic K2VCO wrote: You don't need an expensive 'kit'! Just take any old wire and make two 1/4 wavelength radials for each band -- a total of 12 radials. Try to make them as symmetrical as possible, with the two 40 meter radials opposite each other, etc. The ends of the radials must be well-insulated, since even though they are connected to the coax braid at the center, they will develop high-ish voltages at the ends. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Details on making a multiband radial from twin-lead are at: http://www.bencher.com/pdfs/00366IZV.pdf Jerry W4UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Questio when using a Heil Proset
Ross: I am having the same results with a Warren Gregoire TR200 head set with boom mic. (electret element) The MH2 works just fine. I am feeding an end fed wire directley from the K3. I guessed that RF feedback was the problem. I plan to have a balanced antenna fed with ladder line up soon. I hope that the TR200 will work ok then. The TR200, used as a headset only sounds great. I am 80% CW and use the head set most of the time for CW and sometimes on phone, with very good results. The antenna is 150' of insulated wire laid on the grass, sort of works ok on 80, 60, 40. Have to move it to mow the grass. 73, Ty, W1TF, K3#696 --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] Questio when using a Heil Proset To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 1:51 AM I have just received my K3 and have been using it on data, and it is working well, But I have a problem, when trying to use the Heil Proset it receives ok but when I try to use the PTT I get a loud audio noise over the top of my speech, it sounds like someone giving a loud raspberry. Trying the MH2 hand mic everything works perfectly, there is no noise and using the monitor, my speech sounds normal. The problem with the Proset also occurs if I try and turn on the K3 manually. Ideas please, what have I set up incorrectly, or is it the headset? Regards to all Ross ZL1WN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
David Andrews wrote: I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it themselves? Here's a really nice one: http://www.hamware.de/hardware/tuner502/descr-at502-e.pdf Get ready to sell your car and mortgage your home, however. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
I have done it using motorized matched roller inductors and capacitor controlled by a PIC. It is built into an old Tempo-1 cabinet and works great at over 500 watts (limited by my little amp). It is in constant communication with my K3 and auto-tunes from memory as bands or frequency is changed. I have not yet uploaded any pictures of this tuner to my web page but if anybody is curious then I could do so. What power level are you running? Below a hundred watts or so you can use relays to switch in pairs of inductors and / or a range of capacitors. I have done that also and it is a much faster tuning system and mechanically more simple .. but it is also a lot more fragile. Don K7FJ T - Original Message - From: David Andrews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 6:27 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it themselves? David G4CWB (K3) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Aug 23 - Sep 24, 2008
~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR August 23 - Sept 24, 2008 ~ Hawaii QSO Party (CW/SSB/Digital) ... QRP Category Aug 23, 0700z to Aug 24, 2200z Rules: http://www.karc.us/hi_qso_party.html ~ Ohio QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Aug 23, 1600z to Aug 24, 0400z Rules: http://www.oqp.us/ ~ SKCC Sprint (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Awards Aug 27, z to 0200z Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/sks/ ~ Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW EDT: Tue Aug 26, 9 PM to 1029 PM UTC: Wed Aug 27, 0100z to 0229z Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~ SLOVENIA CONTEST CLUB RTTY Championship .. 100W Category Aug 30, 1200z to Aug 31, 1159z Rules: http://lea.hamradio.si/~scc/rtty/htmlrules.htm ~ MQFD Monthly Sprint (CW/PH/Digital) *** QRP Contest *** Aug 30, 1800z to 2200z Rules: http://w2agn.net/mqfdsprint.html ~ Michigan QRP Labor Day Sprint (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Sep 01, 2300z to Sep 02, 0300z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html ~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP EVENT *** Sep 02, 0100z to 0300z (First Monday 9 PM EDT) Info: http://arsqrp.pbwiki.com/Spartan+Sprints ~ Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW EDT: Tue Sep 2, 9 PM to 1029 PM UTC: Wed Sep 3, 0100z to 0229z Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~ FISTS G3ZQS Memorial Straight Key Contest ... QRP Category Sep 05, 2300z to Sep 07, 2300z Rules: http://www.fists.org/straightkey.html ~ Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 06, 0400z to 0600z Rules: http://qrp.ru/modules/sections/index.php?op=viewarticleartid=7page=1 ~ IARU Region 1 Fieldday (SSB)... QRP Category Sep 06, 1300z to Sep 07, 1259z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/iarur1fd.htm ~ AGCW Straight Key Party (CW - 40 Meters) ... QRP Category Sep 06, 1300z to 1600z Rules: http://www.agcw.org/en/?Contests:Straight_Key_Party ~ Ohio State Parks On The Air (All) ... QRP Category Sep 6, 1600z to 2400z Rules: http://parks.portcars.org/rules.html ~ NA Sprint (CW)... QRP Category Sep 7, z to 0400z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~ Tennessee QSO Party (SSB/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category Sep 7, 1800z to Sep 8, 0100z Rules: http://www.tnqp.org/ ~ FISTS: Get Your Feet Wet Weekend ... QRP Category Sep 12, z to Sep 15, z Rules: http://www.fists.org/getfeetwet.html ~ PODXS 070 Club 80m Autumn Sprint (PSK31) ... QRP Category Sep 12, 2000 Local to 0200 Local Rules: http://www.podxs070.com//contests/80m_sprint_rules08.htm ~ Worked All Europe DX Contest (SSB) 100W Power Category Sep 13, z to Sep 14, 2400z Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedcwr.htm ~ Swiss HTC QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 13, 1300z to 1859z Rules: http://www.htc.ch/de/htc_sprint_contest.htm or: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/htcqrpsp.htm ~ Arkansas QSO Party (CW/SSB/PSK31) ... QRP Category Sep 13, 1400z to Sep 14, 0600z and Sep 14, 1500z to Sep 14, 2400z Rules: http://www.arkan.us/ ~ ARRL September VHF QSO Party (All) Low Power Category Sep 13, 1800z to Sep 15, 0300z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2008/sepvhf.html ~ Second Class Operator Club Marathon (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Sep 13, 1800z to 2400z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/soc/contests.htm#top ~ SKCC Weekend Sprintathon (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Category Sep 14, z to 2359z Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/wes/ ~ NA Sprint (SSB)... QRP Category Sep 14, z to 0400z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~ End of Summer Digital
Re: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
I made a carbon copy of this ATU. It works pretty well, however at impedance extremes it was a bit lossy. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 09:12:01 -0700, Vic K2VCO wrote: David Andrews wrote: I'm using a h/b 1930's link (balanced) tuner. It's as efficient as I can get, and open wire feeders closely balanced. What I'd really like is the same automated, either using motorised variable caps or switched caps/inductance. Has anyone any links or have they managed it themselves? Here's a really nice one: http://www.hamware.de/hardware/tuner502/descr-at502-e.pdf Get ready to sell your car and mortgage your home, however. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3
The answer to my problem is to leave the POWER button like it is. I like the way it works. I am not worried about the transient, I like that if the rig is battery powered and the battery goes low the rig turns off and stays off until you turn it back on. I also like the feature that if a connection is too resistive when you transmit the rig will turn off and stay off until you turn it back on. The main feature of the K3 that I don't like is that the HI-FI enthusiasts have prevailed and it is difficult to copy a CW signal through the background noise without turning off the AGC and using the RF Gain manually. It seems that anything that pleases the HI-FI SWL crowd harms the ability of the K3 to serve the CW and SSB weak signal capabilities. It seems that everything I find to like about the K3 over my TS-850 there is a group lobbying to change. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3 To: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Fern Rivard [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 6:02 AM The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit the site to power up the radios. That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored. An ideal solution would have these attributes: -- if the radio was powered up when the +13 Vdc supply voltage disappeared, then... -- when +13 Vdc reappears, wait 3 seconds, and then power-up the radio. 73, -- Eric K3NA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V
At 11:59 AM 8/20/2008, Niel Skousen wrote: ... I have a 24' tree, with some 3-4' bushes at the base, in a desert/rock landscaped front yard. The back has no 'cover' yet, and antenna's are more visible in spite of a fence. The plan is to install the antenna obscured by the tree, in the front yard. Given the landscaping, ground mounted with a full radial system is not possible so elevating the antenna as high as possible without guys or objectionable visibility wash chosen. My last HF-6V had 32 ea 32' buried radials, wish I could reproduce that !... I think in your situation, I would swap that HF-6V for an automatic antenna tuner and then conceal that automatic antenna tuner at the base of that tree with a 24 foot wire running up the trunk. Snake a few radials among the rocks on the ground along with a ground rod and then let it rip. Don't worry about the radials not being straight. The tuner would automatically do a tune cycle when needed, you would have all bands, and very low visibility - even better than the HF-6V. I have an HF-6V also, and I know they work, but not really any better than a same-length wire with a tuner. Jerry W4UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3: Katiegramm for KRX3
For the trackers: I've got the Katiegram for the KRX3 Delivery :1 - 2 weeks Order date:07-18-2007 73 de Hans, DF5SR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V
I was curious just what a CPK was, so I Googled it. I found this URL that would be a good read before you commit to the idea. http://www.eham.net/forums/Elmers/10424 I had a Butternut HF5V about 18 years ago that was mounted with the base in a tripod on top of a beach house at about 28 feet. I used four 32 foot radials that sloped down to about 20 feet. The antenna worked very well and I worked 200 countries with it in a couple of years. However, the shack was hotter than a two dollar pistol with RF. Also, I was surrounded with salt water which helps a vertical to no end. The performance of any vertical depends greatly on both the near field grounding situation and the far field soil conductivity. The former affects the impedance of the load and the latter the radiation angle. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Niel Skousen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Niel Skousen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 8:59 AM Hi Don (and all who have offered advice help) Thanks to all for the input that has been offered. Based on some of the comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to seek additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated with a compromise antenna environment. I'm installing a used HF-6v in a CCR environment, so I have some environment limitations. The CCR 'enforcement' committee is not horribly aggressive, but if I don't aggravate the situation, I'm much better off. I have a 24' tree, with some 3-4' bushes at the base, in a desert/rock landscaped front yard. The back has no 'cover' yet, and antenna's are more visible in spite of a fence. The plan is to install the antenna obscured by the tree, in the front yard. Given the landscaping, ground mounted with a full radial system is not possible so elevating the antenna as high as possible without guys or objectionable visibility wash chosen. My last HF-6V had 32 ea 32' buried radials, wish I could reproduce that ! So, the HF6 will be mounted about 4' off the ground, a full elevated radial system is not possible. Choices seem to be the CPK solution from Butternut or a modified radial system. Two options are being considered on the modified radials. First, 3 tuned radials (either individual wires for 40/15, 30, 20, 15,10 or the Butternut tuned twinlead variety) could be connected at the base of the antenna, then run down (hidden in the bushes) at a 60 degree angle to ground level, then run under/around the rocks. Performance is expected to be better than the CPK, but still a compromise. Routing is not linear. Tuning of this radial environment is expected to be a bear ! The second, the CPK, is expected to be enhanced by the low elevation, but NOT as effective as a good ground radial system. I might be able to enhance this configuration by laying out a psuedo radial set of 6-10 8' wires at the base of the 4' mast, which would more accurately be a surface capacitive element to enhance the CPK's effect. In neither case will the near field ground losses be impacted. There are some spiral wound counterpoise idea's out on the web, as well as some thoughts on constant angle spirals, which are tempting, but at this juncture, I expect to lean to the CPK to get it up and running, with spirals and experiments to follow... So any additional input, idea's, are solicited and welcome Thanks again all, Niel Don Wilhelm wrote: Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna (they *are* part of the antenna). So get out your antenna analyzer and cut one radial a bit on the long side - attach only that one radial to the vertical and shorten it until you have the correct readings on the antenna analyzer. Cut the second radial to the same length - move to the next band and do the same thing until you are done. Note that the radials can interact on a multiband setup (just like parallel dipoles), so tune the lowest bands first and move upward in frequency one band at a time. The twinlead solution does work, but suffers badly from interaction. 73, Don W3FPR Jerry Flanders wrote: At 04:54 PM 8/19/2008, Vic K2VCO wrote: You don't need an expensive 'kit'! Just take any old wire and make two 1/4 wavelength radials for each band -- a total of 12 radials. Try to make them as symmetrical as possible, with the two 40 meter radials opposite each other, etc. The ends of the radials must be well-insulated, since even though they are connected to the coax braid at the center, they will develop high-ish voltages at the ends. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Details
[Elecraft] Software Upgrades
I too have upgraded my K3 # 604 to every new beta Firmware version as soon as it is posted. I have had no problems. Elecraft is doing an excellent job with the Firmware. Ron Durie WB4OOA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 WATTMETER ADJ
K3 v2.23 Wattmeter adjustment doesn't follow the manual. I'm wondering if I missed something and maybe someone can help me out with this one.I tried to re-check the wattmeter calibration that I skipped over during the build #703 and I'm set up on page 47 of the new manual Rev D1 7/27/08 on 20 mtrs with CONFIG: WMTR LP 070 and have the power control set at 5.0 watts. When I press TUNE it shows 10.0 watts and the power out is indeed 10.0 watts according to my wattmeter. Using the same procedure at 50 watts the CONFIG: WMTR HP 100 and the power control set to 50.0 watts, the TUNE shows AGAIN 10.0 watts and is 10.0 watts. I looked at errata sheet and there is no changes. Could this be a TYPO.WHAT AM I MISSING?? TNX 73's Tony K2ZLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for Butternut HF-6V
Niel, Fine on your constraints. Remember that a vertical with raised radials is just a dipole 'on its side' with one leg (a single radial) bent at 90 degrees to the radiating element. So how does only the vertical part radiate you may ask. That happens because you add another radial physically opposite the first one, and the radiation of one radial is 180 degrees out of phase with the radiation from the other, so they cancel leaving only the vertical portion to radiate a signal. If the pair of radials are not symmetrical, then you may be just as well off with only a single radial per band. The radials must each be tuned (just like one end of a dipole) with the vertical radiator. The radials must be an *electrical* quarter wave long at the band of operation - they can be loaded with inductors near the junction with the coax shield, or they can be end loaded with a T wire, or some combination of both, but they must be resonant. If they are placed close to the ground (4 feet is close for the HF bands), there will be some effect from ground coupling that will de-tune them, so the easiest is to cut them long and do the trimming with the aid of an antenna analyzer (if there are several radials for each band, they must be tuned one at a time - connect only one and tune it, then connect only the next one and tune, etc. until done. Remember that the radials will not be 'radials' unless they are symmetrically placed around the vertical, it is of no use to run two radials for any one band out in the same direction for they will produce the same radiation pattern as a single radial. Another 'solution' is to trade that antenna for one that is an electrical half wave - which does not need radials being an antenna complete within itself. 73, Don W3FPR Niel Skousen wrote: Hi Don (and all who have offered advice help) Thanks to all for the input that has been offered. Based on some of the comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to seek additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated with a compromise antenna environment. I'm installing a used HF-6v in a CCR environment, so I have some environment limitations. The CCR 'enforcement' committee is not horribly aggressive, but if I don't aggravate the situation, I'm much better off. So, the HF6 will be mounted about 4' off the ground, a full elevated radial system is not possible. Choices seem to be the CPK solution from Butternut or a modified radial system. Two options are being considered on the modified radials. First, 3 tuned radials (either individual wires for 40/15, 30, 20, 15,10 or the Butternut tuned twinlead variety) could be connected at the base of the antenna, then run down (hidden in the bushes) at a 60 degree angle to ground level, then run under/around the rocks. Performance is expected to be better than the CPK, but still a compromise. Routing is not linear. Tuning of this radial environment is expected to be a bear ! The second, the CPK, is expected to be enhanced by the low elevation, but NOT as effective as a good ground radial system. I might be able to enhance this configuration by laying out a psuedo radial set of 6-10 8' wires at the base of the 4' mast, which would more accurately be a surface capacitive element to enhance the CPK's effect. In neither case will the near field ground losses be impacted. There are some spiral wound counterpoise idea's out on the web, as well as some thoughts on constant angle spirals, which are tempting, but at this juncture, I expect to lean to the CPK to get it up and running, with spirals and experiments to follow... So any additional input, idea's, are solicited and welcome Thanks again all, Niel Don Wilhelm wrote: Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna (they *are* part of the antenna). So get out your antenna analyzer and cut one radial a bit on the long side - attach only that one radial to the vertical and shorten it until you have the correct readings on the antenna analyzer. Cut the second radial to the same length - move to the next band and do the same thing until you are done. Note that the radials can interact on a multiband setup (just like parallel dipoles), so tune the lowest bands first and move upward in frequency one band at a time. The twinlead solution does work, but suffers badly from interaction. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Further heil proset question
Thanks for the comments, regarding my problem with the Heil proset. I have tried running the K3 into a dummy load (plugged directly into Ant 1) with only 1 watt output, bias on, front panel high. At least I can hear my speech, BUT the audio moise is very loud. Bias off, no speech, so it needs the bias. So surely at that low power level, rf feed back should not occur, could it be a faulty headset? Any other ideas please.. Regards Ross ZL1WN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for ButternutHF-6V
Hello Niel I'd like to talgate Don's comments with a small one of my own. If you should use just a single radial, you may or not be able to see the little bit of directivity the antenna will develope in the direction of the single radial away from the vertical. I did a quick check with EZNEC on a 40m vertical with one radial. There is a 5 dB front-to-back ratio, with the best signal in the direction of the radial. The flip side of this is that the antenna gain is only -1.6dB in the favored direction, and even less in other directions. You might be able to take advantage of this, if your property is aligned in desireable directions. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Niel Skousen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:29 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for ButternutHF-6V Niel, Fine on your constraints. Remember that a vertical with raised radials is just a dipole 'on its side' with one leg (a single radial) bent at 90 degrees to the radiating element. So how does only the vertical part radiate you may ask. That happens because you add another radial physically opposite the first one, and the radiation of one radial is 180 degrees out of phase with the radiation from the other, so they cancel leaving only the vertical portion to radiate a signal. If the pair of radials are not symmetrical, then you may be just as well off with only a single radial per band. The radials must each be tuned (just like one end of a dipole) with the vertical radiator. The radials must be an *electrical* quarter wave long at the band of operation - they can be loaded with inductors near the junction with the coax shield, or they can be end loaded with a T wire, or some combination of both, but they must be resonant. If they are placed close to the ground (4 feet is close for the HF bands), there will be some effect from ground coupling that will de-tune them, so the easiest is to cut them long and do the trimming with the aid of an antenna analyzer (if there are several radials for each band, they must be tuned one at a time - connect only one and tune it, then connect only the next one and tune, etc. until done. Remember that the radials will not be 'radials' unless they are symmetrically placed around the vertical, it is of no use to run two radials for any one band out in the same direction for they will produce the same radiation pattern as a single radial. Another 'solution' is to trade that antenna for one that is an electrical half wave - which does not need radials being an antenna complete within itself. 73, Don W3FPR Niel Skousen wrote: Hi Don (and all who have offered advice help) Thanks to all for the input that has been offered. Based on some of the comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to seek additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated with a compromise antenna environment. I'm installing a used HF-6v in a CCR environment, so I have some environment limitations. The CCR 'enforcement' committee is not horribly aggressive, but if I don't aggravate the situation, I'm much better off. So, the HF6 will be mounted about 4' off the ground, a full elevated radial system is not possible. Choices seem to be the CPK solution from Butternut or a modified radial system. Two options are being considered on the modified radials. First, 3 tuned radials (either individual wires for 40/15, 30, 20, 15,10 or the Butternut tuned twinlead variety) could be connected at the base of the antenna, then run down (hidden in the bushes) at a 60 degree angle to ground level, then run under/around the rocks. Performance is expected to be better than the CPK, but still a compromise. Routing is not linear. Tuning of this radial environment is expected to be a bear ! The second, the CPK, is expected to be enhanced by the low elevation, but NOT as effective as a good ground radial system. I might be able to enhance this configuration by laying out a psuedo radial set of 6-10 8' wires at the base of the 4' mast, which would more accurately be a surface capacitive element to enhance the CPK's effect. In neither case will the near field ground losses be impacted. There are some spiral wound counterpoise idea's out on the web, as well as some thoughts on constant angle spirals, which are tempting, but at this juncture, I expect to lean to the CPK to get it up and running, with spirals and experiments to follow... So any additional input, idea's, are solicited and welcome Thanks again all, Niel Don Wilhelm wrote: Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated radials should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the antenna (they *are* part of the
[Elecraft] K3 WATTMETER ADJ SOLVED
Many thanks to Don Nesbitt for the answer. Yes I had reset the TUNE parameter to 10.0 watts. So, the note on page 47 should read, VERIFY THAT CONFIG: TUN PWR is NOR. Tnx, 73's Tony K2ZLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [K3] [Elecraft] K3 BFO Offset
K8RDD wrote: Does anyone know if it is possible to change the usb/lsb bfo offset? I See the filter offset thread. understand that all is done in firmware so there is no product detector, but I have noticed a difference between usb/lsb phone modes. The USB and LSB passbands produced by the digital filters should be exact mirror images of each other around the carrier frequency, so any difference has to be introduced by the roofing filter, or, less likely, by any LC filters in the chain. -- David Woolley The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 WATTMETER ADJ
Tony, Do you have TUN PWR set for 10W instead of NOR? If so, no matter what you set PWR at, TUN will process at 10W (or whatever you have TUN PWR set to). - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 On Wed Aug 20 14:00 , K2ZLS sent: K3 v2.23 Wattmeter adjustment doesn't follow the manual. I'm wondering if I missed something and maybe someone can help me out with this one.I tried to re-check the wattmeter calibration that I skipped over during the build #703 and I'm set up on page 47 of the new manual Rev D1 7/27/08 on 20 mtrs with CONFIG: WMTR LP 070 and have the power control set at 5.0 watts. When I press TUNE it shows 10.0 watts and the power out is indeed 10.0 watts according to my wattmeter. Using the same procedure at 50 watts the CONFIG: WMTR HP 100 and the power control set to 50.0 watts, the TUNE shows AGAIN 10.0 watts and is 10.0 watts. I looked at errata sheet and there is no changes. Could this be a TYPO.WHAT AM I MISSING?? TNX 73's Tony K2ZLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Got My Katie-gram today and can not afford it now.
If anyone is interested purchaseing this rig, contact me directly. I believe that I can assign it to who ever wants to purchase it. It is a KIT that is a K3-100, ATU, 250 400 Hz filters, KXV3, USB, Heil Headset, with theKDVR3 backordered and KRX3 backordered. Craig K6ML 719-661-5695 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Got-My-Katie-gram-today-and-can-not-afford-it-now.-tp736901p736901.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Balanced Tuners
I am working on rotating the property for directional control(!!) Monty, Your property is rotating; is us the rest of us blokes who won't sit still while you are getting around to us. Mike Scott AE6WA Tarzana, CA K3/100 SN508 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3: E 00039?
Help! I was recalibrating my K3 today and was doing the synthesizer routine (CONFIG: VCO MD), set it on CAL and exited the menu. As a result, I received an error message -- E 00039 ERR VC4 -- and in consulting the revised manual (version D1) found only references to having the second receiver installed and to try NOT INST as a means of correcting this. Well, I had NOT INST selected since I don't have a second receiver. What gives? Thanks in advance! Joe, W2RBA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Which rig is Elecraft's best value?
Back when the K3 was first announced, someone suggested a T-shirt that said My K2 is lonely. Not so in my case. Assembling and tinkering with a K3, it's my soldering iron that gets lonely. For some of us, if we didn't melt solder we've missed out on something important. Is the K3 a better performer? That's entirely in the mind of the operator. If the specifications are what defines performance, yes it is. If the psychological rush and enjoyment one gets from operating it defines performance, that's not necessarily true. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- This is something that I have been thinking about recently. I have the K2/10 and I don't consider it to be a QRP rig. If it were to put out five watts or less then I would call it a QRP rig. For me, it works great and 10 to 15 watts is all I need, even with the current band conditions. It just makes it that much more fun! The only option that I have installed is the SSB board. I have also had unsolicited great audio reports with it. I've thought about maybe getting the DSP board but, I have on outboard DSP unit that I use and to be honest, I don't like DSP all that much. I also have an Autek audio filter that works great with the K2. So, I pretty much have what I want. Is it the best bang for the buck? For me it is and as you said, you build it yourself. I order my K2 a couple of days before Elecraft announced the K3. It is #6113 and I'm wondering how many K2's have been sold since then. It seems that they are still selling them even with the K3 on the scene. Some people still like to build and some people don't. It's a fun and simple rig to operate. I operate mostly CW, however. Gary, N7HTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
I'm rather astonished they get away with such tiny relays, even if it is never hot switched. At high impedances there can be thousands of volts of RF in there, even at the moderate power levels it's specified for. In my experience that sort of voltage easily produces coronas that would put a smile on Tesla's face. I'm used to seeing several inches of ceramic insulation or air space between conductors at those power levels. (Most of us O.T.s raised with vacuum tubes have pulled inches long arcs off of the high-impedance tank circuit of our rigs at far less than 200 watts.) At very low impedances the currents can run into correspondingly huge amounts, with substantial ohmic losses in the inductor wires and relay contacts. I'm used to seeing tubing or at least large gage wire used for inductors to minimize that problem. Sometimes the wires are silver plated. Even heavy-duty commercial automatic tuners, such as those used on ships for the HF rigs, have very specific combinations of minimum length of antenna and minimum frequency they can handle because it's an electrically-short antenna that produces the highest voltages. Since Stewart found that losses escalate at impedance extremes, maybe they aren't getting away with using those tiny relays or the little inductors. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I made a carbon copy of this ATU. It works pretty well, however at impedance extremes it was a bit lossy. Stewart G3RXQ Here's a really nice one: http://www.hamware.de/hardware/tuner502/descr-at502-e.pdf Get ready to sell your car and mortgage your home, however. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: K2/100
_*For sale: *_ Elecraft K2/100 (Serial NR: 1933) with the KSB2, KNB2 modules. Recently re-aligned/tuned up by W3DVX (Alan Wilcox). I am the original owner and have all of the associated manuals. It has been in a smoke free environment since it's been built. It also has never been mobile. Pictures available upon request. $1000 + (shipping and insurance costs) Please contact me directly off list... 73, Tony Lyon (KJ5XF) Reason for sale: Selling one of my K2/100's to get funds for my upcoming K3/100... :-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
I have done it using motorized matched roller inductors and capacitor controlled by a PIC. I have not yet uploaded any pictures of this tuner to my web page but if anybody is curious then I could do so. Don, I am interested in your implementation of an motorized balanced tuner. Mike Scott AE6WA Tarzana, CA K3/100 SN508 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto balanced tuner
Me, too!! I am currently using a G5RV with a 1:1 current balun, then a remotely located auto tuner. Clearly this is not ideal although I have 200++ countries (170 confirmed) with 100W using it, so it can't be all bad. I am always looking for improvements and motorized tuners intrigue me. Knut - AB2TC Mike Scott-7 wrote: I have done it using motorized matched roller inductors and capacitor controlled by a PIC. I have not yet uploaded any pictures of this tuner to my web page but if anybody is curious then I could do so. Don, I am interested in your implementation of an motorized balanced tuner. Mike Scott AE6WA Tarzana, CA K3/100 SN508 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - AB2TC - Knut -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Auto-balanced-tuner-tp736969p737054.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Nabble
John, I, too, suffered this apparent loss of access to Nabble2 without any changes locally. I found that I only needed to click on the Elecraft link on the upper left corner to bring out the full forum listing. 73, Mike, K8CN Durham, NH -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Nabble-tp734023p737110.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Configuration Cookbook?
Lets try this again with further explanation. I am retired and do not have an endless budget to upgrade the K3. The upgrades I make will depend on their cost – yet I want to progress toward the “ultimate” K3 and not end up with a box of high dollar “junk.” I would like to know what I need to do certain things and not buy unnecessary parts and/or not have everything I need. I have read here that if you want the 8-pole filter on the second receiver that you need to have an 8-pole filter on the main receiver. Perhaps a few (but not every) examples will give you the idea. I do not think these are correct – that is why I am asking. 1. Second receiver used only as general coverage receiver – desire to listen to AM, FM, and CW. The following is needed, at a minimum - a. KRX3, b. KBF3, c. KFL3B-FM, d. KFL3A-6K - ??, e. KFL3A-2.7 - ??. 2. No second Receiver – Desire to add FM a. KFL3B-FM b. ??? 3. No second receiver – desire to add second receiver WITH 2.8 8 pole filter a. KRX3, b. KFL3A-2.8 c. KFL3A-2.8 – for main receiver - ?? d. What do I do with the old 5 pole filter, e. Or should I just order the 5-pole filter. Does this give you a better idea? As you can see, looking at all of the options and various configurations you (almost) need a spreadsheet! Thanks Rich Looking at all of the options and various configurations you almost need a spreadsheet! Thanks Rich Rich wrote: I have tried searching the Elecraft WebPages and manual and can not find complete ,concise, information as to the minimum required components (above the basic K3) for each of the various different modes. Is this posted somewhere or can someone provide a cookbook of recipes for each of the various different non Basic modes (e.g. FM, AM, SWL, etc.)? Should include Basic K3 and additional requirements for KRX3. Do I need 8 pole filters on both? Thanks, Rich, KE0X -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Configuration-Cookbook--tp728066p737145.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3: High Power Gain Calibration Procedure
I have put in the KPA3, and have set KPA3 PA NOR. Set WMTR HP 050 then I exit configuration. I am connected to a Palstar KL2k wattmeter. TUNE gives me no output. I was expecting 50 watts on my wattmeter. Ken K5WK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft and Goats in the 14er event
From ling-time friend N0TU in Colorado. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Hi Ken, Thought you might enjoy seeing our QRPxpedition to Uncompahgre Peak as N0B N0B's final video is online! (Here's my last post for a while or until my next adventure with the 'boys') It's all about the goats and stations we worked as N0B on Uncompahgre Peak. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV_0eaTX_R0 Note: Rooster and Peanut must have gotten into some Cuban coffee beans as they went sorta nuts! Peanut danced up a storm as he trimmed the oak tree in his pen. While Rooster kept pace with the beat of the Cuban Bosa Nova. So the list is now if you missed the first 2-videos Video # 1 Getting Attitude http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCYROUAefsU Video # 2 Gaining Altitude http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug2sQj908go Video # 3 Altitude with Attitude http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV_0eaTX_R0 Enjoy! Cheer's Steve/RP http://n0tu.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft at Boxboro, MA, this weekend; K3 Demo Station; K3 Talk
I'm flying out tomorrow for the Boxboro, MA, Hamfest. We're manning the Elecraft booth this weekend with K3s and our other rigs and goodies. We are also providing a K3 for the convention demo radio station. I'm also giving a talk on the technology behind the K3 at 11 AM on Saturday. Please feel free to come by the booth to visit, ask questions or just visit. Also, if you are interested in helping out, we're always looking for enthusiastic Elecraft owners to hang out and answer questions at the booth. Its a great way to meet and get to know other current and potential Elecraft enthusiasts! In addition, since we're providing the demo K3 station, it might be fun to have someone periodically check in at the station to offer advice on using the K3 etc. If you are interested please email me or stop by the booth when you get to the show. I'm looking forward to seeing everyone from the area this weekend. :-) Its our first time in the Northeast for a hamfest, so it should be fun! 73, Eric WA6HHQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Configuration Cookbook?
Rich, I suggest you consider your need for the 8 pole 2.8 filter first - remember that it is the DSP that does the real filtering, the roofing filter is only to keep strong offending signals out of the DSP front end. On that basis, consider your operating desires - if you are heavy into SSB DX chasing or contesting where you will be operating on very crowded bands, then the 2.8 kHz filter may provide you with some small extra benefit, but if your operation is more casual than that, the 2.7 kHz filter should be adequate. I believe once you answer the question about the 2.7 vs. the 2.8 filter, the rest of your considerations will come naturally. Actually the filters in the sub-receiver do not have to be matched unless you will be using diversity receive where the two receivers ideally would be matched not only in frequency, but in phase. You will not notice any slight differences in the filter centers unless you use diversity receive. If immediate budget is a concern, I suggest you consider the following: Basic K3/10 or K3/100 with the 2.7 kHz filter. Add the FM filter when you want to add FM capability (receive or transmit or both) - the FM filter can also be used for AM receive (the 6 kHz filter is required for AM transmit) Then add the KBF3 to give you general coverage and take full advantage of the AM receive capability. At that point, decide whether you really need the sub-receiver. You should also know enough by that time to select the needed filters for the subreceiver. Add narrow filters as needed to support your operating conditions and desires. Of course, all this ignores things like the KXV3 and the KAT3, but your station requirements for these will likely be different than anyone else's - look at the features each adds and select them on the basis of cost vs. utility in your station. That is similar to my personal upgrade path for the K3 except I do not think I will ever want the general coverage because I have several transceivers that are capable of general coverage already and I will not be hunting for weak SW BC stations. I am not likely to add the sub-RX because my casual operation does not provide enough added utility to justify the cost - but it may be added much later down the road 'just because'. I hope that helps a bit - your choices will not be the same as mine, but perhaps this gives you some clues to the reasons why each option or filter is to be added. 73, Don W3FPR Rich wrote: Lets try this again with further explanation. I am retired and do not have an endless budget to upgrade the K3. The upgrades I make will depend on their cost – yet I want to progress toward the “ultimate” K3 and not end up with a box of high dollar “junk.” I would like to know what I need to do certain things and not buy unnecessary parts and/or not have everything I need. I have read here that if you want the 8-pole filter on the second receiver that you need to have an 8-pole filter on the main receiver. Perhaps a few (but not every) examples will give you the idea. I do not think these are correct – that is why I am asking. 1. Second receiver used only as general coverage receiver – desire to listen to AM, FM, and CW. The following is needed, at a minimum - a. KRX3, b. KBF3, c. KFL3B-FM, d. KFL3A-6K - ??, e. KFL3A-2.7 - ??. 2. No second Receiver – Desire to add FM a. KFL3B-FM b. ??? 3. No second receiver – desire to add second receiver WITH 2.8 8 pole filter a. KRX3, b. KFL3A-2.8 c. KFL3A-2.8 – for main receiver - ?? d. What do I do with the old 5 pole filter, e. Or should I just order the 5-pole filter. Does this give you a better idea? As you can see, looking at all of the options and various configurations you (almost) need a spreadsheet! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3
Interesting I'll have to see how much difference this makes by trying it this way I've got things working pretty good by playing with my slope and threshold settings. I think that the thing works pretty good for me as a mostly CW op and I've had quite a few other mostly CW ops feel the same way about it. ~Brett On Wed, 2008-08-20 at 10:48 -0700, WILLIS COOKE wrote: The answer to my problem is to leave the POWER button like it is. I like the way it works. I am not worried about the transient, I like that if the rig is battery powered and the battery goes low the rig turns off and stays off until you turn it back on. I also like the feature that if a connection is too resistive when you transmit the rig will turn off and stay off until you turn it back on. The main feature of the K3 that I don't like is that the HI-FI enthusiasts have prevailed and it is difficult to copy a CW signal through the background noise without turning off the AGC and using the RF Gain manually. It seems that anything that pleases the HI-FI SWL crowd harms the ability of the K3 to serve the CW and SSB weak signal capabilities. It seems that everything I find to like about the K3 over my TS-850 there is a group lobbying to change. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3 To: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Fern Rivard [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 6:02 AM The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a problem in remote-controlled stations. If power fails, one must visit the site to power up the radios. That said, there are often many transients when power is first restored. An ideal solution would have these attributes: -- if the radio was powered up when the +13 Vdc supply voltage disappeared, then... -- when +13 Vdc reappears, wait 3 seconds, and then power-up the radio. 73, -- Eric K3NA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3: Elecraft hand mike.
I got the matching handmike, and no output. I have set mic sel FPL, and set mike gain 50. Is there something else required? Ken K5WK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Elecraft hand mike.
Ken, Yes, you need bias set on too - when in the MIC SEL menu, tap the '2' button to toggle the bias (the '1' button toggles between H and L - L is usually good for the MH2). 73, Don W3FPR Kenneth Waites wrote: I got the matching handmike, and no output. I have set mic sel FPL, and set mike gain 50. Is there something else required? Ken K5WK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets
I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for something I know exists. I have seen examples in both Elecraft kits and in other kits I have built. Now I want to find these parts for a project I am designing. I want a set of 0.1 right angle header and sockets. I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find the matching sockets. Where do I find right angle sockets to mate with the 0.1 header pins? I don't really want to change my design to use straight pins and sockets but may have to if I cannot find what I want. Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts I know exist? I am probably not calling them the right thing but have tried a number of different names over the last four hours. Any assistance would be appreciated. Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets
On Molex check out the C-Grid receptacles. If you're wondering how I got there I looked up the pinned part on mouser then typed that family into the molex website then clicked on the catalog page then it tells you the mates with information. You can then search for that and then find what you need. So if you search for C-Grid receptacles on molex's site then you can get a part number for what you want. Once you have that you can find all sorts of cross references. this link may work: http://www.molex.com/cgi-bin/bv/molex/jsp/products/listview.jsp?query=offset=40npp=20sType=zfs=productname:c-grid,III,(productseries:90147%20productseries:90151%20productseries:90148%20productseries:90152)BV_SessionID=1037671541.1219297753BV_EngineID=ccceadeelmlidiicflgcehedffgdfmk.0channel=ProductsLang=englishautoNav=1path=cHome%23%23-1%23%23-1~~ncPCBRECEPTACLES%23%230%23%232pItemlist= On Thu, 2008-08-21 at 01:34 -0400, Kevin Rock wrote: I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for something I know exists. I have seen examples in both Elecraft kits and in other kits I have built. Now I want to find these parts for a project I am designing. I want a set of 0.1 right angle header and sockets. I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find the matching sockets. Where do I find right angle sockets to mate with the 0.1 header pins? I don't really want to change my design to use straight pins and sockets but may have to if I cannot find what I want. Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts I know exist? I am probably not calling them the right thing but have tried a number of different names over the last four hours. Any assistance would be appreciated. Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
