Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for December 13th 14th, 2009

2009-12-14 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
What is a K4?
73 de M0XDF
--  
The rung of a ladder was never meant to rest upon, but only to hold a  
man's
foot long enough to enable him to put the other somewhat higher.
-Thomas Henry Huxley, biologist and writer (1825-1995)

On 14 Dec 2009, at 02:25, Kevin Rock wrote:
   On to the lists =
 On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:
 KD5PZO - Pat - OR - K4 - 001
 On 7044.5 kHz at z:
 KD5PZO - Pat - OR - K4 - 001

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread Andrew UK

Hi Jerry,

I had the same problem and suspected U4, I removed U4 and fitted and IC
holder, and then fitted a new IC and still had the same fault.

The problem turned out to be a cracked capacitor in the voltage
magnification line. The Capacitor spacing is a bit smaller than the holes
provided and I had used too much force getting the component flat.

There are not many conponents to check. make sure you have a good
desoldering tool.

73's

Andrew

PS Merry Christmas Jerry and Don


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Jerry,
 
 That means U4 is not the problem, the problem is somewhere in the 
 rectifier stack and goes away when you lift the anode of D7.
 
 Check both D7 and D8 for proper orientation (use the parts placement 
 diagram since the board silkscreen is covered).  Check for a solder 
 bridge across the leads of C38.  Be certain C35 is soldered properly.
 If you lift the anode of D7 and place a 0.1 uF capacitor from the 
 flying lead of D7 to ground, what is the voltage at the D7 anode?
 
 I know that did not fully identify the failure point, but hopefully it 
 gives you some clues.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 n0jrn wrote:
 Gang: I need some advise please.

 I'm trying to finish my KPA100 but I can't seem to get beyond voltage
 tests 
 on page 46 of the manual.

 I should be getting 90 to 150 V's at the junction of C77  R11 but only 
 getting 47 volts.

 I should be getting -5 to -25 V's at pin 8 of U4 BUT   I'm only 
 seeing -4.1.

 I did some research in the archives and came up with a few ideas.   
 Checked 
 D1 - D8 and T3 pads.  All diodes pass continuity test and T3 seems fine
 and 
 shows zero resistance between pads.

 Checking the schematics prompted me to lift the anode of D7 to remove U4. 
 In doing this,  the voltage at the junction of R11 came up into spec and 
 shows 150 V's.

 This means that U4 is drawing the circuit down.  SO,   I sent Elecraft an 
 e-mail and Gary sent me a new MAX1406.  Figured I would install
 it 
 and all would be good.NOT !

 After installing the new U4,I rechecked voltage at R11 and found it
 is 
 still just 47 V's.

 I've double checked orientation of U4,  and it's fine.  I was very
 careful 
 to observe anti static procedures when installing the new chip.   SO,  
 I'm 
 confused and not sure where to go from here.

 Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 Thanks  72:   Jerry   N0JRN 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 Aurora noice

2009-12-14 Thread Andrew UK

Hi Lennart,

Oh dear, this sounds tricky to solve over an email reflector. The first
thing do you have access to RF test equipment? As it would be useful to look
at the LO on a spectrum analyser. Your description sounds like you have lost
lock due to a component changing value with the excessive heat.

I would start from scratch and re-align. Make sure you 4MHz oscillator and
frequency counter is working correctly first. If it does not align or do the
frequency cal does not work get back to me.

I am away from home at the moment, but the more information you give me the
more I can point you in the right direction.

BR


Andrew Lenton


Lennart wrote:
 
 Hi,
 
 I have used my K2/10w a lot the last couple of years. Always a good
 performer on CW and very good audio reports on SSB. The KAT2 tunes any
 antenna I have tried an I have used it a lot portable. At one portable
 activity last summer the radio was exposed to direct sunlight for a while
 and got very hot. At that time the output power dropped sharply and
 receive appeared to listen to the whole band at once.
 
 This has happened a couple of times since then. The receive sounds like
 severe aurora noise covering almost all signals, the transmit on CW is
 just a low power very wide noise as well. It must be very early in the
 oscillator stage somewhere, the PLL or something stop working. If I change
 band it is the same thing on the higher bands. Then suddenly gone and the
 radio is OK for a moth. 
 
 Very irritating on portable expeditions or when it happens in the middle
 of a QSO.
 
 I have no clue where to start. I have tried to find a bad connection or
 bad solder. Is there a PLL reference oscillatior that could make it act
 like this, or where should I look?
 
 Regards,
 Lennart - SM6KNL
 

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Re: [Elecraft] How long could it take to arrive my home.

2009-12-14 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
It took UPS express 34 hrs to go from Elecraft to my home.
(Pretty quick I'd say)

The 'normal way' was about 10 days.

73
Arie PA3A

-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens David Quental
Verzonden: zondag 13 december 2009 15:17
Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: [Elecraft] How long could it take to arrive my home.

Hello all again,

now another question, but mainly for the european members of this
mailing list.

how long could package take until arrive at my address ?

I am just asking it because at 22nd of December my family will go out of
home so nobody there to receive package.

Last information from package tracking is this one:

International Dispatch, December 12, 2009, 9:26 am, ISC SAN FRANCISCO (USPS)

Any help will be useful.

Best 73 to all.

T6AG
David Quental

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Re: [Elecraft] XV-144 heat

2009-12-14 Thread David Pratt
This is one of the disadvantages of buying when equipment is newly 
available.  There were no holes in my XV144 top and bottom case panels.

I must remember to wait awhile in future until all the initial changes 
have been made.

73

David G4DMP

In a recent message, Eric gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote ...

My xv 144 has holes on both the top and bottom cover as it came from 
the factory
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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Re: [Elecraft] XV-144 heat

2009-12-14 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Are there holes in the PCB Eric? I must check my unmade kit that's  
been waiting 2 years!
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used  
when we
created them. -Albert Einstein, physicist, Nobel laureate (1879-1955)

On 14 Dec 2009, at 15:07, David Pratt wrote:
 There were no holes in my XV144 top and bottom case panels.
 In a recent message, Eric gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote ...

 My xv 144 has holes on both the top and bottom cover as it came from
 the factory
 -- 
 David G4DMP
 Leeds, England, UK
 --

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Re: [Elecraft] How long could it take to arrive my home.

2009-12-14 Thread PA3CW

I know that UPS is the only fast way to get things over quickly to EUR.
Therfor dont let the term USPS ' Express'  mislead you, it takes weeks for
parts to arrive. I have a package sitting at the airport waiting for
clearance. Arrival in NL (Ater 6 days) on 9 december and due for delivery,
according to latest info, around 19/19.  So the complete shipment took a
month (that is calles express)  I did have good experiences with UPS in the
past to, just a couple of days. Worth the additional charge!

73,

Dick PA3CW


Arie Kleingeld PA3A-2 wrote:
 
 It took UPS express 34 hrs to go from Elecraft to my home.
 (Pretty quick I'd say)
 
 The 'normal way' was about 10 days.
 
 73
 Arie PA3A
 
 -Oorspronkelijk bericht-
 Van: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens David Quental
 Verzonden: zondag 13 december 2009 15:17
 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Onderwerp: [Elecraft] How long could it take to arrive my home.
 
 Hello all again,
 
 now another question, but mainly for the european members of this
 mailing list.
 
 how long could package take until arrive at my address ?
 
 I am just asking it because at 22nd of December my family will go out of
 home so nobody there to receive package.
 
 Last information from package tracking is this one:
 
 International Dispatch, December 12, 2009, 9:26 am, ISC SAN FRANCISCO
 (USPS)
 
 Any help will be useful.
 
 Best 73 to all.
 
 T6AG
 David Quental
 
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[Elecraft] K1, K2, K3: filtering email

2009-12-14 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Hehehehe.

Here is MY approach.

I subscribe in digest form and DELETE every digest w/o looking at
anything, as soon as it arrives.  I subscribe so I can reply.  Other
reflectors have a set no mail option, but I didn't see that when I
first subscribed here (years ago).

I simply use the reflector link page
http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html

I look at the SUBJECT of each message and only open what seems
interesting.  I do this for every reflector that I am subscribed to.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3 ports for CW Skimmer CAT

2009-12-14 Thread Larry, VE3LR

Thanks for the reply Julian (I am a frequent visitor to your site so I feel 
like I already know you!).for some reason the moderator bounced my posting 
saying I wasn't registered, which I am. 
Anyhow, I am curious if you know the answer to this...I have HRD shut down, 
would this still affect CW Skimmer's ability to perform CAT? 
Thanks, Larry 

CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE FOR 
WATCHMAKER'S TOOLS  MATERIAL: 
http://www.execulink.com/~lfoord/tools.html
  - Original Message - 
  From: Julian, G4ILO [via Elecraft] 
  To: Larry, VE3LR 
  Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 10:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3 ports for CW Skimmer CAT




Larry, VE3LR wrote:
As we age the brain (or at least mine) gets confused so easy..the love 
of my life (my K3) works flawlessly in CAT with HRD using Elecraft's serial/USB 
cable. CW Skimmer also works flawlessly (using 3KHZ mode) but I cannot get the 
CAT side of CW Skimmer to cooperate. 
  No, it's just a plot by computers to make us think we're getting senile. CW 
Skimmer should work using the same settings (COM port and baud rate) you use 
for HRD (but not at the same time as HRD is running, unless you're using 
LP-Bridge or a serial port splitter.) I was going to tell you the settings I 
used but the trial has expired and I'm darned if I'll pay $75 for a program I 
only use to test its integration with KComm. 

  If you're sure the settings are the same as HRD's then it could be that you 
have a USB to serial adapter that works with some programs and not others - 
it's quite a common problem. If you search back through the archives you'll 
find many recommendations for ones that work - my vote is for anything with an 
FTDI chipset. 

  Actually, using LP-Bridge might help, as then it will be LP-Bridge talking to 
the K3 and Skimmer will be talking to 'Bridge, and I haven't seen too many 
reports of LP-Bridge having trouble with USB adapters.
  Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222. 
  * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
  * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
  * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html




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  To unsubscribe from Help with K3 ports for CW Skimmer CAT, click here. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools

2009-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction 
with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive.

73,
Don W3FPR

Phil Hystad wrote:
 Don and Chuck,

 Thanks for the explanations.  I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it 
 is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter.  Well, 
 maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere.  No rush though.  I 
 just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 
 5 watts with any degree of accuracy.

 phil
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K1, K2, K3: filtering email

2009-12-14 Thread Julian, G4ILO



DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 I subscribe in digest form and DELETE every digest w/o looking at
 anything, as soon as it arrives.  I subscribe so I can reply.  Other
 reflectors have a set no mail option, but I didn't see that when I
 first subscribed here (years ago).
 
To disable delivery of unwanted digests click on the Unsubscribe or edit
options button at the bottom of this page
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft and log in, you can then
change various options.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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[Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Clint
Fellow Elecrafters,

I have a feeling this may open the flood gates but here goes.

I am a newbie Ham but a long time SWL going back to my Knight Kit Star Roamer. 
I am fixin' to set-up my antenna farm. OK, it will be more like an antenna 
garden as I have a small house and lot. My K3/100 has a KAT3 and KRX3. I plan 
on using 3 Dipoles and maybe an inverted V for diversity receive (what a great 
feature).  I got on Google Earth and plotted out the areas I am interested in. 
I live just up the street from Elecrafts new HQ (talk about fast service) on 
the central coast of California (CM96CX).

A bearing of 118 deg (antenna runs from 28 to 208 deg) cuts across Central 
America and South America on one side and across Manila and Singapore, skirting 
Japan, on the other (298 deg). This is a great coverage for me as I used to 
live in Singapore and spent lots of time in Asia (work) and Central America 
(not work). 

The next one is 32 deg (antenna runs from 122 to 302 deg) which cuts through 
London and Rome on to the Middle East. The other side is not too much, Tahiti 
and the South Pacific. I am thinking of a reflector on this one as there is not 
allot at 212 deg that interests me and that should help with Europe, I think.

The next one is 78 deg (antenna runs from 122 to 302 deg) which cuts across the 
US through North Carolina, Bermuda and on to South Africa. The other side, 258 
deg, runs through the Solomon Islands and right down the middle of Australia to 
Perth.

I know the lobes will spread way out from these bearings over these long 
distances but these numbers are a starting point. The antennas will also cross 
forming a pattern similar to an asterisk on my roof/lot, a good thing I am 
guessing.

I was thinking about Inverted V's for most of these until I checked what the 
side lobes would pick-up. On the 118 deg antenna it would be the South Pacific 
(no problem) and Europe (big interference problem while shooting for C/S 
America and SE Asia). 

The 32 deg would pick-up Japan, SE Asia on one side lobe and Mexico, Central 
America on the other. Too many unwanted signals if I am trying for Europe. 

The 78 deg side lobes would pick-up Alaska, central Russia and west India on 
one side and the South Pacific, places like Pitcairn, and on to Antarctica. 
Maybe an inverted V would be OK on this one.

The Diversity may be a big inverted V or just an L shape long wire. I laid out 
a spread sheet with the lengths for a Dipole plus 15 deg, 22 deg, 30 deg, 37 
deg, 45 deg, 60 deg and 75 deg inverted V's from 160 to 2 meters using the 
center of the Extra class bands (my next conquest) looking for some magic 
number. Nothing jumps out at me but of course a ¼ wave 80 is close to a ½ wave 
40, a ½ 60, ¼ 30 and so on. I think I can squeeze in a ¼ wave 80 meter dipole 
(~31.2 feet/side) in most directions and maybe a shorter one above this 
(easiest for me but technically wrong?). The longer one higher may be possible 
but won't be easy. 160 meters will be another project for another day.

 

So my questions are:

1)  What length would be best and give me the use of the most bands? 
Remember, I have a limited space.

2)   How far from the dipole should a reflector be. It should be about 5% 
longer and grounded, right?

3)  The auto-tuner on the K3 is amazing. Is it easier for it to tune an 
antenna that is to long or to short? I'm guessing long but I am not certain. 

4)  Any suggestions on which band/antenna length is best for these targets? 
I am mostly active late afternoon and evening (till about 10 PST) and mornings 
after 6.

Thanks, 

Clint KI6SSN



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[Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Ken Kopp
Hi Clint!

Welcome to the reflector

The reality is that most won't be able to place antennas high 
enough and free of surroundings to realize their text book 
or free space patterns, and it's more a case of you takes 
what you gets.

It's a complicated matter, with many variables, all mostly
beyond our control.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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Re: [Elecraft] XV-144 heat

2009-12-14 Thread Eric
I'm sure they'd send you new covers if you request them

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 14, 2009, at 7:07 AM, David Pratt da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk wrote:

This is one of the disadvantages of buying when equipment is newly available.  
There were no holes in my XV144 top and bottom case panels.

I must remember to wait awhile in future until all the initial changes have 
been made.

73

David G4DMP

In a recent message, Eric gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote ...

My xv 144 has holes on both the top and bottom cover as it came from the factory
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Brian Machesney
Clint,

I don't know all your constraints, but since you are considering putting up
multiple individual antennas to work in opposite directions, you may want to
consider reversible wire beams or reversible Moxon rectangles. There is a
wealth of information at www.cebik.com (free to create a userid) and at the
Moxon Antenna Project (see, e.g.,
http://www.moxonantennaproject.com/w8egb/w8egb_reverse.htm )

Good luck!

Brian K1LI
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Eric Tichansky
 and evening (till about 10 PST) 
 and mornings after 6.

 Thanks, 

 Clint KI6SSN



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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm OOPS

2009-12-14 Thread Duncan Carter
 dipole (~31.2 feet/side) in most directions and maybe a 
 shorter one above this (easiest for me but technically wrong?). The longer 
 one higher may be possible but won't be easy. 160 meters will be another 
 project for another day.

  

 So my questions are:

 1)  What length would be best and give me the use of the most bands? 
 Remember, I have a limited space.

 2)   How far from the dipole should a reflector be. It should be about 5% 
 longer and grounded, right?

 3)  The auto-tuner on the K3 is amazing. Is it easier for it to tune an 
 antenna that is to long or to short? I'm guessing long but I am not 
 certain. 

 4)  Any suggestions on which band/antenna length is best for these 
 targets? I am mostly active late afternoon and evening (till about 10 PST) 
 and mornings after 6.

 Thanks, 

 Clint KI6SSN



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread n0jrn
Good Morning Don / Andrew:

I very much appreciate both your suggestions.

DON:I do have the KPA100UPKT installed and R4 is 100K.   So,  I 
will lift D8 and see what results I get.

BUT  first,   I'll check the caps in the rectifier section as Andrew 
suggests to make sure all is well there.

Now to call Mouser and get another MAX1406 on the way

Thanks guys and I'll keep you up on how things work out.

72JerryN0JRN
On 12/14/2009 6:22:37 AM, Don Wilhelm (d...@w3fpr.com) wrote:
 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to
 produce a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5
 volts is OK, so lowering the voltage a bit will help with the life of
 the chip.
 Do you have the KPA100UPKT installed (look for blue toroid cores at L16
 and RFC1)?  If installed, change R4 to 100k if it is not already.
 If R4 is already 100k or you have red toroid cores at L15 and L16,
 remove D8 to drop the negative voltage to about half its present value.

 The KPA100 amplifier will function fine without U4 installed, but you
 will not be able to use the RS-232 portion of the AUX I//O connector.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] Problems with KRX3 Install

2009-12-14 Thread K6LE
I finally gave up looking for a config that I missed and took the top cover off 
to check the TMP connections.

Well, either I knocked it off while trying to route the cables before I set the 
KRX3 down in or I just didn't get it on right in the first place, but, the 6 
cable from J82 on the KRX3 and J5 on the KREF3 board was off from J5.  Plugged 
it back in and I am good to go!

Rick
K6LE
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[Elecraft] 2 meter module

2009-12-14 Thread Phil LaMarche
Is the ship start date 12-17-09 still solid, please.
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
 http://www.instantgourmetspices.com/ www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com http://www.w9dvm.com/  
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re: antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Jim Dunstan

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:38:33 -0500
To: Clint clint.st...@sbcglobal.net
From: Jim Dunstan jduns...@tbaytel.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

At 10:17 AM 12/14/2009 -0800, you wrote:


So my questions are:

1)  What length would be best and give me the use of the most bands? 
Remember, I have a limited space.

2)   How far from the dipole should a reflector be. It should be about 5% 
longer and grounded, right?

3)  The auto-tuner on the K3 is amazing. Is it easier for it to tune 
an antenna that is to long or to short? I'm guessing long but I am not 
certain.

4)  Any suggestions on which band/antenna length is best for these 
targets? I am mostly active late afternoon and evening (till about 10 
PST) and mornings after 6.

Thanks,

Clint KI6SSN

I believe you missed out the most important question concerning a dipole 
 height !!

The radiation pattern of a dipole is basically broadside ... and maintains 
that pattern (with increased broad side gain) as it is made longer up to 
approximately 1 wavelength or a bit more.  After this length the 
(horizontal) radiation pattern starts to break up into multiple lobes 
(making the pattern unpredictable).  That eminent antenna Guru ... Cebik 
... studied this phenomena and stated that the dipole/doublet can maintain 
the predictable radiation pattern over a 4:1 frequency range.

Given this 4:1 range you could choose 10m as the highest frequency  
making 44 ft the doublet length covering 40-10m or choose 20m  
making the 88 ft doublet covering 80-20m.  In both cases it becomes 
difficult (but possible) to feed the antenna at the lowest frequency (40m 
in the first case of 44 ft ... and 80m in the second case of 88 
ft).  However 44ft is great for 30-10m and 88 ft is great for 40-20m.

You have to realize that the doublet in either length is non-resonant ... 
and will have to be fed either with an antenna coupler ... such as those 
made by SGC followed by coax... or a low loss balanced feed line and 
antenna tuner.

I personally like the 44 ft version as it can be constructed as a 
rotatable dipole  I feed mine with open wire line to a balanced tuner 
in the shack.  it is mounted at 55ft height  ideal for 10  15 mtrs 
 very gud at 20m  and just gud at 40m.  I use a different wire 
antenna for 80m.  I can rotate it ... but rarely need to do so.  except 
when propagation is clearly needed north and south ... otherwise it is 
always broadside to east and west.

I have no difficulty working DX 30-10m and occasionally with 40m.

However getting the doublet up in that 50-70 ft range is much more 
important than which way it faces.  Here in N.A.  getting the wire 
broadside to E.W. is all you need for a start.  there are some Antenna 
reflectors that discuss this topic regularly.

Jim, VE3CI









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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
As Ken mentioned, height is an important factor in a horizontal or
semi-horizontal antenna. There's limited gain in any direction at low
angles unless the radiator is 1/2 wavelength above ground. That's why most
of us have to live with little directivity on the lower bands. 

The option is to consider verticals. Unless you are living on salt water (or
atop a sheet of copper), or can make the vertical a full 1/2 wave high, the
vertical won't be as efficient as doublet or dipole, but a vertical will
produce typically much better signals at lower angles of radiation than a
horizontal antenna (under 1/2 wave high) and doesn't require a huge
'footprint'. Also you can phase multiple verticals for directivity and even
design them so you can use them for supports for horizontal wires on the
higher bands. 

You've probably noticed that 45 foot verticals are being heavily promoted
these days. That's an old design that is very handy for limited space. It
provides low angles of radiation on all bands up through 20 meters where
it's 5/8 wavelength high (on bands where it's more than 5/8 wavelength the
angle of the main lobe rises from the horizontal and minor lobes appear at
high angles). Down on 80 meters it's just a bit shy of 1/4 wavelength. With
a good ground system it can produce excellent results down there and even on
160 - especially when compared with the short, low (in wavelengths above
ground) antennas most of us are forced to use on those bands

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] 2 meter module

2009-12-14 Thread Bruce Beford
Phil Lamarche wrote:

 Is the ship start date 12-17-09 still solid, please.
 
Phil, I don't feel that it ever WAS solid. It is just the latest estimate,
based on parts that had not arrived yet. An update would be nice, but I
don't look at the 17th (my birthday, BTW) as a firm commitment. I never did.
I know it will be shipped when ready. As Wayne once said to me, No wine
before it's time...

73,
Bruce N1RX
 


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[Elecraft] Mic Gain and CMP

2009-12-14 Thread Richard Thorpe
A question, I'm using a Heil PR781 with my K3 it seams to me that I  
have to use high mic gain and CMP.  I have the mic gain at 40 and the  
CMP at 22. Are these levels comparable with other 781 users? Thank you.

R Thorpe KD6LAZ/AE
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic Gain and CMP

2009-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
There are two ranges on the mic gain.  Do you have yours set to L (low) 
or H (high)?  For most Heil mics, it should be set to H.

73,
Don W3FPR

Richard Thorpe wrote:
 A question, I'm using a Heil PR781 with my K3 it seams to me that I  
 have to use high mic gain and CMP.  I have the mic gain at 40 and the  
 CMP at 22. Are these levels comparable with other 781 users? Thank you.

 R Thorpe KD6LAZ/AE
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[Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo

2009-12-14 Thread David Gilbert

I suspect that there are quite a few of people around the world who 
would like to test drive a K3 before actually buying one, and many of 
them don't live near anyone who already owns one.  It might be helpful 
(that's what this list is for, right?) for someone to set up a K3 with 
remote control capability so that anyone anywhere could at least listen 
with it using HRD or similar rig control software.  It wouldn't 
necessarily have transmit enabled, but it could demostrate what is 
probably the rig's premium capability ... it's receive performance.

And although users wouldn't be able to directly check the ergonomics of 
the K3, they might be able to do so indirectly.  As many K3 owners have 
already pointed out, once you have the K3 set up the way you want it 
there isn't a lot of need to change anything while operating it ... 
particularly during a contest.  Even remote operation of the rig would 
help confirm that.

Just a thought.  Has anyone already done something like this?

73,
Dave   AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Hello Clint,

While planning your antenna farm, have you considered using an antenna 
modelling program such as EZNEC which could be of great help to you. A free 
version comes with the ARRL Antenna Handbook.

Due to the effect of nearby objects such as above ground power lines, metal 
gutters etc etc and trees on antennas, such a program cannot be expected to 
tell the whole truth unless these objects are included in the model, which 
can be difficult to do properly, but it can and usually does show the effect 
of other nearby antennas on the pattern of the antenna in use.

Unfortunately the geographical bearing to a distant DX station is not always 
the same bearing at which the signal actually arrives. For example here on 
40m the short path into CA is often skewed by as much as 50 degrees via 
Central /S.America. Also the vertical angle of arrival of the closer East 
Coast stations can vary considerably - often very high angle.

The variation in bearing and angle of arrival of long distance DX stations 
here on 15m is usually very much less.

So my suggestion FWIW is that you consider using EZNEC to plan your farm, 
put up an antenna which serves your main operating interests and directions 
(within the imposed constraints), and add other antennas ONLY if they do not 
compromise the performance of your main antenna. This does not answer your 
questions directly, but if you use EZNEC you should be able to get some 
ideas.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Clint clint.st...@sbcglobal.net wrote on Monday, December 14, 2009 at 6:17 
PM


Fellow Elecrafters,

I have a feeling this may open the flood gates but here goes.

I am a newbie Ham but a long time SWL going back to my Knight Kit Star 
Roamer. I am fixin' to set-up my antenna farm. OK, it will be more like an 
antenna garden as I have a small house and lot. My K3/100 has a KAT3 and 
KRX3. I plan on using 3 Dipoles and maybe an inverted V for diversity 
receive (what a great feature).  I got on Google Earth and plotted out the 
areas I am interested in. I live just up the street from Elecrafts new HQ 
(talk about fast service) on the central coast of California (CM96CX).

snip





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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Bob Cunnings
And, if you don't have enough space for a radial field on the ground,
try a vertical doublet, center fed with balanced line for multi-band
operation. I've been using one for years which is 32 ft. tall and can
be loaded easily from 30 meters to 15 meters. Much better for dx than
my low dipole and the elevated feedpoint (at 16 ft.) seems to help
overcome ground clutter (enclosing block walls etc.). The wire is
supported by a 32 ft. telescoping fiberglass pole, with footprint less
than one square foot!

Bob NW8L

On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 12:58 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
 As Ken mentioned, height is an important factor in a horizontal or
 semi-horizontal antenna. There's limited gain in any direction at low
 angles unless the radiator is 1/2 wavelength above ground. That's why most
 of us have to live with little directivity on the lower bands.

 The option is to consider verticals. Unless you are living on salt water (or
 atop a sheet of copper), or can make the vertical a full 1/2 wave high, the
 vertical won't be as efficient as doublet or dipole, but a vertical will
 produce typically much better signals at lower angles of radiation than a
 horizontal antenna (under 1/2 wave high) and doesn't require a huge
 'footprint'. Also you can phase multiple verticals for directivity and even
 design them so you can use them for supports for horizontal wires on the
 higher bands.

 You've probably noticed that 45 foot verticals are being heavily promoted
 these days. That's an old design that is very handy for limited space. It
 provides low angles of radiation on all bands up through 20 meters where
 it's 5/8 wavelength high (on bands where it's more than 5/8 wavelength the
 angle of the main lobe rises from the horizontal and minor lobes appear at
 high angles). Down on 80 meters it's just a bit shy of 1/4 wavelength. With
 a good ground system it can produce excellent results down there and even on
 160 - especially when compared with the short, low (in wavelengths above
 ground) antennas most of us are forced to use on those bands

 Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Phil LaMarche

160-10  One antenna.  I have a Zero Five 43 ft vertical and the matching
network described in Dec QST for 80/160.  Most bands are close to flat and
only one band needs one touch of the K3 ATU.  Works very well.  I have a Pro
67 B Mosley beam at 72 feet and when switching back and forth, it surprises
me.  Small yard space.  Drive some ground rods down and put out a few wires
buried in the soil.

Phil 


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob Cunnings
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 3:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

And, if you don't have enough space for a radial field on the ground, try a
vertical doublet, center fed with balanced line for multi-band operation.
I've been using one for years which is 32 ft. tall and can be loaded easily
from 30 meters to 15 meters. Much better for dx than my low dipole and the
elevated feedpoint (at 16 ft.) seems to help overcome ground clutter
(enclosing block walls etc.). The wire is supported by a 32 ft. telescoping
fiberglass pole, with footprint less than one square foot!


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo

2009-12-14 Thread Brian Machesney
Dave,

I think that's a good idea, particularly since I've heard some hams comment
that they bought one rig and not another because of the ability to operate
it remotely (couldn't transmit, of course - no control op). This demo could
tip the balance for that segment of the market.
Brian K1LI
On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 3:45 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote:

 And although users wouldn't be able to directly check the ergonomics of
 the K3, they might be able to do so indirectly.  As many K3 owners have
 already pointed out, once you have the K3 set up the way you want it
 there isn't a lot of need to change anything while operating it ...
 particularly during a contest.  Even remote operation of the rig would
 help confirm that.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo

2009-12-14 Thread Hector Padron
So far as I know,nobody has done it yet but my qth has the doors opened to 
anyone who live in palm beach county,FL to come and see it working in all bands 
and modes.Its fully loaded with the latest FW version.
 
AD4C
 


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 12/14/09, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com wrote:


From: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, December 14, 2009, 8:45 PM



I suspect that there are quite a few of people around the world who 
would like to test drive a K3 before actually buying one, and many of 
them don't live near anyone who already owns one.  It might be helpful 
(that's what this list is for, right?) for someone to set up a K3 with 
remote control capability so that anyone anywhere could at least listen 
with it using HRD or similar rig control software.  It wouldn't 
necessarily have transmit enabled, but it could demostrate what is 
probably the rig's premium capability ... it's receive performance.

And although users wouldn't be able to directly check the ergonomics of 
the K3, they might be able to do so indirectly.  As many K3 owners have 
already pointed out, once you have the K3 set up the way you want it 
there isn't a lot of need to change anything while operating it ... 
particularly during a contest.  Even remote operation of the rig would 
help confirm that.

Just a thought.  Has anyone already done something like this?

73,
Dave   AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Duncan Carter
Duncan Carter wrote:
 Even if you don't have space for a large radial field, you are apt to 
 do better with elevated radials, even one radial ( the lower half of 
 the dipoles) as I have.  Putting wire in or on the ground is mainly 
 useful for keeping earthworms warm.   To read a lively debate on this 
 subject which includes links to two excellent technical references, 
 see all three pages of:
http://www.eham.net/forums/Elmers/237953

73, Dunc, W5DC

 Bob Cunnings wrote:
 And, if you don't have enough space for a radial field on the ground,
 try a vertical doublet, center fed with balanced line for multi-band
 operation. I've been using one for years which is 32 ft. tall and can
 be loaded easily from 30 meters to 15 meters. Much better for dx than
 my low dipole and the elevated feedpoint (at 16 ft.) seems to help
 overcome ground clutter (enclosing block walls etc.). The wire is
 supported by a 32 ft. telescoping fiberglass pole, with footprint less
 than one square foot!

 Bob NW8L

 On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 12:58 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
   
 As Ken mentioned, height is an important factor in a horizontal or
 semi-horizontal antenna. There's limited gain in any direction at low
 angles unless the radiator is 1/2 wavelength above ground. That's why most
 of us have to live with little directivity on the lower bands.

 The option is to consider verticals. Unless you are living on salt water (or
 atop a sheet of copper), or can make the vertical a full 1/2 wave high, the
 vertical won't be as efficient as doublet or dipole, but a vertical will
 produce typically much better signals at lower angles of radiation than a
 horizontal antenna (under 1/2 wave high) and doesn't require a huge
 'footprint'. Also you can phase multiple verticals for directivity and even
 design them so you can use them for supports for horizontal wires on the
 higher bands.

 You've probably noticed that 45 foot verticals are being heavily promoted
 these days. That's an old design that is very handy for limited space. It
 provides low angles of radiation on all bands up through 20 meters where
 it's 5/8 wavelength high (on bands where it's more than 5/8 wavelength the
 angle of the main lobe rises from the horizontal and minor lobes appear at
 high angles). Down on 80 meters it's just a bit shy of 1/4 wavelength. With
 a good ground system it can produce excellent results down there and even on
 160 - especially when compared with the short, low (in wavelengths above
 ground) antennas most of us are forced to use on those bands

 Ron AC7AC
 
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Mel Farrer
 wrong?). The longer one higher may be possible 
but won't be easy. 160 meters will be another project for another day.

 

So my questions are:

1)      What length would be best and give me the use of the most bands? 
Remember, I have a limited space.

2)   How far from the dipole should a reflector be. It should be about 5% 
longer and grounded, right?

3)      The auto-tuner on the K3 is amazing. Is it easier for it to tune an 
antenna that is to long or to short? I'm guessing long but I am not certain. 

4)      Any suggestions on which band/antenna length is best for these targets? 
I am mostly active late afternoon and evening (till about 10 PST) and mornings 
after 6.

Thanks, 

Clint KI6SSN



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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I certainly second Geoff's suggestion of EZNEC. 

 While I'm wary of modeling programs in general (remember, garbage in,
garbage out), I use EZNEC to give me a feel for what can be done in a
certain set of conditions and to draw a general idea of whether a design or
change is likely to be worth implementing. 

I have used the full version for years, and consider it worth every penny of
the roughly US$100 it costs. (http://www.eznec.com/)

EZNEC takes a bit of effort to learn to use at its fullest capabilities, but
it's a lot less physical effort (and more comfortable in the winter) than
climbing about up trees and raising masts for months and months ;-)

And it's fun...

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Geoffrey
Mackenzie-Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 12:45 PM
To: Clint
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

Hello Clint,

While planning your antenna farm, have you considered using an antenna 
modelling program such as EZNEC which could be of great help to you. A free 
version comes with the ARRL Antenna Handbook.


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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Byron Servies
On Dec 14, 2009, at 12:45 PM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:

 While planning your antenna farm, have you considered using an antenna 
 modelling program such as EZNEC which could be of great help to you. A free 
 version comes with the ARRL Antenna Handbook.

This is the approach I am taking, though I ended up buying EZNEC+ as I have a 
lot of architectural metal in my 3-story town home over the Santa Cruz small 
craft harbor.  The first story is also stucco, which has a bunch of wire in it 
as well, as are the other nearby homes in my complex.

My goals are to try and determine why the placement of my current wire dipoles 
is so poor, and then to see if I can model something that will have 
theoretically better performance before I go through the effort of constructing 
and hanging my next low-visibility antenna(s).

So far, just looking at the plots as I add more of the large bits of metal in 
my home  to the model has been instructive.

Byron KI6NUL
p.s.  One of the first things in the EZNEC instructions is a word from the 
author about how amateurs with limited space often wonder why their 3 antennas 
do not work well, and he points out they really have 1 antenna with 3 feed 
points due to their spacing.
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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Vic K2VCO
Byron Servies wrote:
 On Dec 14, 2009, at 12:45 PM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:

 This is the approach I am taking, though I ended up buying EZNEC+ as I have a 
 lot of
 architectural metal in my 3-story town home over the Santa Cruz small craft 
 harbor.
 The first story is also stucco, which has a bunch of wire in it as well, as 
 are the
 other nearby homes in my complex.

If that's salt water, try a vertical!
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo

2009-12-14 Thread Paul - WW2PT

In addition to the online remote K3, I think some well-produced videos
showing the K3 in action in various modes, assembly and setup tutorials,
feature demonstrations, etc. would be great. The Ten-Tec site has something
along these lines. There are some good K3 videos on YouTube like WU2X and
WW2DX demonstrating LP-Pan and PowerSDR with the K3, and I'd love to see
more along these lines -- like a demo video with high quality stereo audio
that would really let someone experience the advantages of diversity
receive, for example, or one showing a sneak preview of the P3 panadapter.
Stuff aimed not just at prospective K3 buyers but also at people who already
own the K3 but still have cash left over. ;-)

73,
WW2PT



David Gilbert wrote:
 
 
 I suspect that there are quite a few of people around the world who 
 would like to test drive a K3 before actually buying one, and many of 
 them don't live near anyone who already owns one.  It might be helpful 
 (that's what this list is for, right?) for someone to set up a K3 with 
 remote control capability so that anyone anywhere could at least listen 
 with it using HRD or similar rig control software.  It wouldn't 
 necessarily have transmit enabled, but it could demostrate what is 
 probably the rig's premium capability ... it's receive performance.
 
 And although users wouldn't be able to directly check the ergonomics of 
 the K3, they might be able to do so indirectly.  As many K3 owners have 
 already pointed out, once you have the K3 set up the way you want it 
 there isn't a lot of need to change anything while operating it ... 
 particularly during a contest.  Even remote operation of the rig would 
 help confirm that.
 
 Just a thought.  Has anyone already done something like this?
 
 73,
 Dave   AB7E
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Online-K3-Demo-tp4166638p4167100.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] unable to extract files to update K3 using Win 7 - problem solved!!!

2009-12-14 Thread Dick Williams

I want to thank the individuals that responded to my Win 7 problem of
unable to download files and unzip files.  Since my Win 7 is new, I even
called Microsoft and was on the phone for about three hours with one of
their support personnel; the bottom line was he was not able to help other
than letting me know that something was corrupt in the computer.  The
computer was in such bad shape that I could not even download or even get
their Easy Assist to download.

I finally was able to fix the problem myself with a very simple and
extremely effective cure (three step process):

(1) format the hard drive

(2) load Win 7 back on the computer

(3) re-install programs and associated files

Everything is working like it should now.

Over the years I have found the above three steps to have cured the most
obstinate and perplexing problems that I have ever encountered with all of
the versions of Microsoft operating systems.  I highly recommend it, and the
above three step procedure will certainly decrease your anxiety levels.

Dick 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] antenna farm

2009-12-14 Thread Duncan Carter
When I first put up my vertical, I only had 40 and 20 meters and mounted 
them on the opposite of my house from the current feed point location, 
that is, in between and close to the rain gutter and the metal chimney 
liner.  The feed point resistance on 40 was as expected but the feed 
point resistance on 20 was about 1/3 of what I expected.  Moving the 
center parts and feed point to the opposite side of the house gave 
feedpoint impedances as expected.  I have no idea if the chimney liner 
is grounded or not.

I haven't modeled the antenna but I still know how to calculate 
radiation restiances.  Back in the day when I had hair on top of my 
head) I was an antenna designer for Collins and for Hy-Gain and a 
consultant afterwards.

Dunc, W5DC

Byron Servies wrote:
 On Dec 14, 2009, at 12:45 PM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:

   
 While planning your antenna farm, have you considered using an antenna 
 modelling program such as EZNEC which could be of great help to you. A free 
 version comes with the ARRL Antenna Handbook.
 

 This is the approach I am taking, though I ended up buying EZNEC+ as I have a 
 lot of architectural metal in my 3-story town home over the Santa Cruz small 
 craft harbor.  The first story is also stucco, which has a bunch of wire in 
 it as well, as are the other nearby homes in my complex.

 My goals are to try and determine why the placement of my current wire 
 dipoles is so poor, and then to see if I can model something that will have 
 theoretically better performance before I go through the effort of 
 constructing and hanging my next low-visibility antenna(s).

 So far, just looking at the plots as I add more of the large bits of metal in 
 my home  to the model has been instructive.

 Byron KI6NUL
 p.s.  One of the first things in the EZNEC instructions is a word from the 
 author about how amateurs with limited space often wonder why their 3 
 antennas do not work well, and he points out they really have 1 antenna with 
 3 feed points due to their spacing.
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Re: [Elecraft] Weird W2 problem - update

2009-12-14 Thread NZ0T

This happened several more times.  I had been in PEP mode while all this
happened but after I changed to average mode it has not happened again. 
Hope the coming firmware updates solve this issue.

NZ0T wrote:
 
 Interesting problem with my W2 this morning.  Was on 75 for a net at about
 500 watts into (at first) a Windom and then a sloper.  I have the 2KW
 1.8-54 Mhz sensor.  The 2KW range on the meter stopped working - acted as
 if I was in the 200W range.  The other ranges also seemed shifted down
 with the 200W range acting like the 20W range.  Also the meter would not
 turn off.  Pushing the on/off button caused it to recycle but it stayed
 on. Very strange.  I tried reinstalling the firmware with no success. 
 Finally I unplugged the power cord, waited a minute, and plugged it back
 in.  That did it - all is fine now.  Could be RF from the Windom - mine
 tends to send RF back down the coax even with an RF choke in line.  Anyone
 else had this happen?
 
 73 Bill NZ0T  
 

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http://n2.nabble.com/Weird-W2-problem-tp4156475p4167222.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Re: XV-144 heat

2009-12-14 Thread Johnny Siu
Hi David,

If it is XV144, there is neither internal fan nor holes in the PCB beneath the 
fan area.  

For XV432, there is an internal fan plus holes under the fan area.

As I mentioned in my earlier emails in this forum, I need to modify my XV144 in 
the way similar to the fan + PCB arrangement of XV432 so as to solve the heat 
issue. 

Without these modifications, XV144 will be extremely hot when operating under 
the power output  20W SSB/CW or 10W continous carrier modes.

73

Johnny VR2XMC



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
副本(CC) Eric gliderboy1...@yahoo.com
傳送日期﹕ 2009/12/14 (一) 11:14:35 PM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] XV-144 heat

Are there holes in the PCB Eric? I must check my unmade kit that's  
been waiting 2 years!
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used  
when we
created them. -Albert Einstein, physicist, Nobel laureate (1879-1955)

On 14 Dec 2009, at 15:07, David Pratt wrote:
 There were no holes in my XV144 top and bottom case panels.
 In a recent message, Eric gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote ...

 My xv 144 has holes on both the top and bottom cover as it came from
 the factory
 -- 
 David G4DMP
 Leeds, England, UK
 --

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  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略,教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Online K3 Demo

2009-12-14 Thread Larry - K2GN
I'm with Dave on this one.
Particularly something for those of us that are technically challenged.
Really would like to see the P3 and CWSkimmer in action!!!
Bring it on.
de K2GN/Larry
K3 - S/N 3278

 that would really let someone experience the advantages of diversity
 receive, for example, or one showing a sneak preview of the P3 panadapter.
 Stuff aimed not just at prospective K3 buyers but also at people who 
 already
 own the K3 but still have cash left over. ;-)

 73,
 WW2PT
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for December 13th 14th, 2009

2009-12-14 Thread Fred Jensen
David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 What is a K4?

Possibly a K1 driving a K3?

 73 de M0XDF
 -- The rung of a ladder was never meant to rest upon, but only to hold a 
 man's
 foot long enough to enable him to put the other somewhat higher.
 -Thomas Henry Huxley, biologist and writer (1825-1995)

Impressive -- around 170 years old when he finally died!  There is no 
way my body will last that long even if my mind does, which is clearly 
not likely given its state today.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA USA

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 Aurora noice

2009-12-14 Thread Fred Jensen
OK, I'll top-post.

Lennart,

This exact thing happened to my K2 [#4398] about 18 months ago as I was 
getting set up outside for the Flight of the Bumblebees the end of July 
2008.  Weird, very wide band [like everywhere] noise on RX that sort of 
morphed as I tuned, equally noisy TX with nearly no power out.  I got a 
# from Elecraft and sent the radio to Don.  He found that the PLL chip 
was bad, fixed it, and then realigned my radio.  Having it fixed was 
great.  The realignment and improvements in how it worked were worth way 
more than what it cost me.

Good luck,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA USA

 Lennart wrote:
 Hi,

 I have used my K2/10w a lot the last couple of years. Always a good
 performer on CW and very good audio reports on SSB. The KAT2 tunes any
 antenna I have tried an I have used it a lot portable. At one portable
 activity last summer the radio was exposed to direct sunlight for a while
 and got very hot. At that time the output power dropped sharply and
 receive appeared to listen to the whole band at once.

 This has happened a couple of times since then. The receive sounds like
 severe aurora noise covering almost all signals, the transmit on CW is
 just a low power very wide noise as well. It must be very early in the
 oscillator stage somewhere, the PLL or something stop working. If I change
 band it is the same thing on the higher bands. Then suddenly gone and the
 radio is OK for a moth. 

 Very irritating on portable expeditions or when it happens in the middle
 of a QSO.

 I have no clue where to start. I have tried to find a bad connection or
 bad solder. Is there a PLL reference oscillatior that could make it act
 like this, or where should I look?

 Regards,
 Lennart - SM6KNL

 

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[Elecraft] Unusual 10 meter-PA tripped out

2009-12-14 Thread Bob Allen
I hope this hasn't already been figured out, sorry if it has. Rig is S/N 
3162
I was CQing with the K3's digital voice recorder on 10 meters yesterday 
at 100w, I noticed that the SWR is bouncing up to the 3+ end of the 
scale on the voice peaks. I stopped, checked the SWR with the K3's 
bridge, SWR=1.6:1 and the MFJ-969 tuner also read approx. 1.5:1, so I 
kept CQing and after 5-10 minutes the circuit breaker for the PA tripped 
and wouldn't reset until it cooled down.
Then I turned down the output to about 70w and CQed for about 20 minutes 
more with no more trouble.
I took the K3 to a friend's QTH and the SWR bouncing to the 3+ range was 
the same but I didn't run it long enough to see if the circuit breaker 
would trip.
Any thoughts?

Bob
KB1FRW
73
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[Elecraft] K3 - USB monitor

2009-12-14 Thread Steve Ellington
Found this little self powered USB monitor and am trying to think up a good 
application for the K3, LP-PAN etc.
At $80 it's almost irresistible.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/usb-gadgets/c609/

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] Unusual 10 meter-PA tripped out

2009-12-14 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bob,

You know, I've noticed the same sort of SWR bouncing behavior  
running some MFSK digital modes on just about any band.  I haven't  
noticed any problems because of it (i.e. I haven't had the circuit  
breaker trip like you mentioned,) but it does seen a little odd.

I need to try it transmitting into my dummy load to make sure it's not  
something weird with my antenna.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Dec 14, 2009, at 3:59 PM, Bob Allen wrote:

 I was CQing with the K3's digital voice recorder on 10 meters  
 yesterday
 at 100w, I noticed that the SWR is bouncing up to the 3+ end of the
 scale on the voice peaks.
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[Elecraft] IF-out from sub-rcvr?

2009-12-14 Thread Kenneth S. Hawes
Hi,

Is there a way to have the IF-out from the KVX-3 be from the sub-receiver?
 

My K-3 is on order and I have been reading the K-3 manual carefully but
have seen nothing on this.  The block diagram makes me doubt this is
possible, but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,
Ken
AK1Q


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[Elecraft] K3 ACC Power

2009-12-14 Thread eric norris
Like many on this list I have wired up an automotive relay (with protection 
diode) to power multiple devices from the K3 switched power jack.  Wouldn't 
this make a great product from Elecraft?  It would be in a nice, K3-matching 
box with extra room for spare mojo AND, if I were designing it, at least one 
power on LED or even better an overly complex set of status lights that would 
flash out patterns with the W2 when they power up together or even a voice that 
said, Good Morning, Dave.  Mounting ears allow it to be mounted under a shelf 
or desk.  It would have multiple outlets, both RCA and QRP Coaxial, a 20-amp 
capability, AND a bypass switch to power devices when the K3 was not on if 
needed.  For example, I have a Top Ten Devices band decoder and relay box that 
are powered from the K3 relay, but when I use a rig other than the K3 I still 
need power for manual antenna switching and for using the W2.    

Currently Elecraft has produced the W2 and PR6 to be powered from the K3 acc 
jack.  Will the P3 also be powered from there?  That leaves the K3 power jack 
over-subscribed, not to mention those of us who will be buying a second W2 to 
accomodate the high-power VHF/UHF sensor WHEN it becomes available (if I may 
indulge in wishful thinking).

73, Eric WD6DBM 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - USB monitor

2009-12-14 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 Found this little self powered USB monitor and am trying to 
 think up a good application for the K3, LP-PAN etc.

It would certainly be ideal for SpectraVue (SDR-IQ) as a 
panadapter.  The windowed size is less than 480x800 even 
with all controls visible. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ellington
 Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 7:42 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - USB monitor
 
 
 Found this little self powered USB monitor and am trying to 
 think up a good 
 application for the K3, LP-PAN etc.
 At $80 it's almost irresistible. 
 http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/usb-gadgets/c609/
 
 Steve
 N4LQ
 n...@carolina.rr.com 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m

2009-12-14 Thread Bill Johnson

In technical school after being a HAM for over 9 years I learned that it took 
10Db change in level to perceive a doubling of audible signal level,,, 3 db 
hard to detect.  I worked on modems during the Vietnam at a site for 1 year 
after tech school and all our old equipment was lab quality.  I did this all 
day long for 6 days a week for a year.  I know and heard what I write.

 
Bill
K9YEQ
K2-#35 (2 more), KX1-#35, K3, TS2000, IC7000, etc.



 
 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 14:16:54 -0800
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m
 
 Quite right Bill, in an audio laboratory or perhaps in a very quiet
 telephone circuit. 
 
 But radio communications is different according to what I learned in school,
 lo' these many years past. Over half a century ago most radio communications
 engineers began using 3 dB (2:1 power ratio) as the minimum change in a
 signal level that would normally be just discernable to the listener,
 considering typical band noise and QSB. That was based in actual on-the-air
 observations by a great many operators over time. 
 
 When considering changing my power level, I never consider it worthwhile to
 change less than 3 dB and more typically 6 to 10 dB as the minimum worth
 bothering with (e.g. shifting from a K2/10 at 10-15 watts CW to a K2/100 was
 a just worthwhile shift). 
 
 When I was much younger and more innocent I used to scramble for each
 little watt, exulting in running 30 watts instead of 20 watts from a 6L6,
 for example, or tweaking my 6146 rig to run 90 instead of 75 watts and
 feeling sure that made a big difference. It sure seemed to produce more
 results from calls. But, looking back over logs over time, it was clearly an
 illusion.. 
 
 That's when I acquired the sign that still hangs over my desk to remind me
 that Believing is Seeing. 
 
 So I don't argue with people who want to make what is a quantifiable silly
 choice. Instead I say, If you want to do it and you believe it's worth it,
 do it. 
 
 I'm no different. After all, we humans make most of our choices based on
 emotion and then we use rational logic to justify the choice. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From 100 to 150, for 1.7 dB, when Bell Laboratories research (with
 huge capital investment and telephone maintenance dollars on the line)
 determined that 3 dB was the signal strength change discernment for
 most people?
 
 I'm not sure who said 3 dB was the minimum detectable by a listener but I
 believe it's incorrect. 1 dB roughly matched the smallest attenuation
 detectable to an average listener. (see below)
 
 The decibel originates from methods used to quantify reductions in audio
 levels in telephone circuits. These losses were originally measured in units
 of Miles of Standard Cable (MSC), where 1 MSC corresponded to the loss of
 power over a 1 mile (approximately 1.6 km) length of standard telephone
 cable at a frequency of 5000 radians per second (795.8 Hz) and roughly
 matched the smallest attenuation detectable to an average listener. Standard
 telephone cable was defined as a cable having uniformly distributed
 resistances of 88 ohms per loop mile and uniformly distributed shunt
 capacitance of .054 microfarad per mile (approximately 19 gauge).
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel#History
 
 73, Bill
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m

2009-12-14 Thread Bill Johnson

In technical school after being a HAM for over 9 years I learned that it took 
10Db change in level to perceive a doubling of audible signal level,,, 3 db 
hard to detect.  I worked on modems during the Vietnam at a site for 1 year 
after tech school and all our old equipment was lab quality.  I did this all 
day long for 6 days a week for a year.  I know and heard what I write.

 
Bill
K9YEQ
K2-#35 (2 more), KX1-#35, K3, TS2000, IC7000, etc.



 
 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 14:16:54 -0800
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m
 
 Quite right Bill, in an audio laboratory or perhaps in a very quiet
 telephone circuit. 
 
 But radio communications is different according to what I learned in school,
 lo' these many years past. Over half a century ago most radio communications
 engineers began using 3 dB (2:1 power ratio) as the minimum change in a
 signal level that would normally be just discernable to the listener,
 considering typical band noise and QSB. That was based in actual on-the-air
 observations by a great many operators over time. 
 
 When considering changing my power level, I never consider it worthwhile to
 change less than 3 dB and more typically 6 to 10 dB as the minimum worth
 bothering with (e.g. shifting from a K2/10 at 10-15 watts CW to a K2/100 was
 a just worthwhile shift). 
 
 When I was much younger and more innocent I used to scramble for each
 little watt, exulting in running 30 watts instead of 20 watts from a 6L6,
 for example, or tweaking my 6146 rig to run 90 instead of 75 watts and
 feeling sure that made a big difference. It sure seemed to produce more
 results from calls. But, looking back over logs over time, it was clearly an
 illusion.. 
 
 That's when I acquired the sign that still hangs over my desk to remind me
 that Believing is Seeing. 
 
 So I don't argue with people who want to make what is a quantifiable silly
 choice. Instead I say, If you want to do it and you believe it's worth it,
 do it. 
 
 I'm no different. After all, we humans make most of our choices based on
 emotion and then we use rational logic to justify the choice. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From 100 to 150, for 1.7 dB, when Bell Laboratories research (with
 huge capital investment and telephone maintenance dollars on the line)
 determined that 3 dB was the signal strength change discernment for
 most people?
 
 I'm not sure who said 3 dB was the minimum detectable by a listener but I
 believe it's incorrect. 1 dB roughly matched the smallest attenuation
 detectable to an average listener. (see below)
 
 The decibel originates from methods used to quantify reductions in audio
 levels in telephone circuits. These losses were originally measured in units
 of Miles of Standard Cable (MSC), where 1 MSC corresponded to the loss of
 power over a 1 mile (approximately 1.6 km) length of standard telephone
 cable at a frequency of 5000 radians per second (795.8 Hz) and roughly
 matched the smallest attenuation detectable to an average listener. Standard
 telephone cable was defined as a cable having uniformly distributed
 resistances of 88 ohms per loop mile and uniformly distributed shunt
 capacitance of .054 microfarad per mile (approximately 19 gauge).
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel#History
 
 73, Bill
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m

2009-12-14 Thread rfenabled
Bill,

I do not dispute anything you say, but, I would like to offer the following:

Recently I was having a QSO with a mobile station using a mono-band antenna on 
a motor home, he was able to switch between a Kenwood TS-480SAT (100w) and a 
TS-480HX (200w) radios. Both radios used the same antenna and repeated switches 
between them revealed the following:

TS-480SAT @100w gave me S-3 on my K3 with no pre-amp

TS-480HX @200w gave me S-4+ with no pre-amp

Audio wise (ssb) I was able to hear the 480SAT but copy was not 100 percent.

The 480HX was easier to copy and was 100 percent readable.

I know this is less than Lab quality material, but it demonstrated to me that 
200w is likely to be better a significant number of times more than using 100w

The frequency we were on was 7.103 LSB where us motorhomers hang out in VK 
Land.

I would opt for a 200w PA in a heartbeat and judging by the sales of the 480's 
in VK there is definitely a market for a 200w PA.

73's
Gary
VK4FD
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra

-Original Message-
From: Bill Johnson k9...@live.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 21:07:24 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  150 watt boots for 160m


In technical school after being a HAM for over 9 years I learned that it took 
10Db change in level to perceive a doubling of audible signal level,,, 3 db 
hard to detect.  I worked on modems during the Vietnam at a site for 1 year 
after tech school and all our old equipment was lab quality.  I did this all 
day long for 6 days a week for a year.  I know and heard what I write.

 
Bill
K9YEQ
K2-#35 (2 more), KX1-#35, K3, TS2000, IC7000, etc.



 
 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 14:16:54 -0800
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m
 
 Quite right Bill, in an audio laboratory or perhaps in a very quiet
 telephone circuit. 
 
 But radio communications is different according to what I learned in school,
 lo' these many years past. Over half a century ago most radio communications
 engineers began using 3 dB (2:1 power ratio) as the minimum change in a
 signal level that would normally be just discernable to the listener,
 considering typical band noise and QSB. That was based in actual on-the-air
 observations by a great many operators over time. 
 
 When considering changing my power level, I never consider it worthwhile to
 change less than 3 dB and more typically 6 to 10 dB as the minimum worth
 bothering with (e.g. shifting from a K2/10 at 10-15 watts CW to a K2/100 was
 a just worthwhile shift). 
 
 When I was much younger and more innocent I used to scramble for each
 little watt, exulting in running 30 watts instead of 20 watts from a 6L6,
 for example, or tweaking my 6146 rig to run 90 instead of 75 watts and
 feeling sure that made a big difference. It sure seemed to produce more
 results from calls. But, looking back over logs over time, it was clearly an
 illusion.. 
 
 That's when I acquired the sign that still hangs over my desk to remind me
 that Believing is Seeing. 
 
 So I don't argue with people who want to make what is a quantifiable silly
 choice. Instead I say, If you want to do it and you believe it's worth it,
 do it. 
 
 I'm no different. After all, we humans make most of our choices based on
 emotion and then we use rational logic to justify the choice. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From 100 to 150, for 1.7 dB, when Bell Laboratories research (with
 huge capital investment and telephone maintenance dollars on the line)
 determined that 3 dB was the signal strength change discernment for
 most people?
 
 I'm not sure who said 3 dB was the minimum detectable by a listener but I
 believe it's incorrect. 1 dB roughly matched the smallest attenuation
 detectable to an average listener. (see below)
 
 The decibel originates from methods used to quantify reductions in audio
 levels in telephone circuits. These losses were originally measured in units
 of Miles of Standard Cable (MSC), where 1 MSC corresponded to the loss of
 power over a 1 mile (approximately 1.6 km) length of standard telephone
 cable at a frequency of 5000 radians per second (795.8 Hz) and roughly
 matched the smallest attenuation detectable to an average listener. Standard
 telephone cable was defined as a cable having uniformly distributed
 resistances of 88 ohms per loop mile and uniformly distributed shunt
 capacitance of .054 microfarad per mile (approximately 19 gauge).
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel#History
 
 73, Bill
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread n0jrn
Don:

Just to clarify !

The -28V's I'm seeing at pin 8 of U4 is measured without the IC installed.

Lets say for the sake of conversation that I install a good MAX1406 and it 
draws on the rectifier circuit a minimal amount.

Would / could that bring the -28V's back into specs for this chip???.   ( I 
have to figure Wayne designed the circuit taking this draw into 
consideration )

OR  is my -28V's so abnormal that I need to be looking at other issues 
in my rectifier pack to bring this negative voltage back into spec ???

Could the negative voltage I'm getting be responsible for damaging this chip 
???

I have 2 new chips coming from Mouser.   I'm not installing them until I'm 
satisfied that I've checked and double checked   EVERYTHING   involved.

Thanks again and happy holidays to the group:

72 Jerry N0JRN
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
To: n0jrn n0...@mchsi.com
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem


 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to produce 
 a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and 
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced 
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5

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[Elecraft] K3 - 100 vs 200 watts

2009-12-14 Thread Jim Miller KG0KP
Yes, 200 watts is better than 100 and it may even be possible to put it in 
the K3, but then you will want 400 or 600 and that is not the way to get it.

IMHO, there is a lot to be gained by going from 100 to 400 or 500 watts (or 
pick your own number) and not really much benefit beyond that to go all the 
way to 1500 unless you are trying to bust pileups.  There are several 
amplifiers out there, even new, that aren't really all that expensive.  If 
you just want to talk mostly anywhere anytime, 400-600 watts will do the 
trick for all practical purposes.  AL811, new list is 749 and will do better 
than 500 and the ALS500 if you want solid state (849 new list) from 12 
volts will do 500 watts just fine (battery close enough and mutiple short 
#10 wires to it).  Used they are very reasonable.

I am glad I have a SUPER Radio they put their time into and will put my own 
amp behind it.

K3 #1442, 73, de Jim KG0KP


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[Elecraft] 回覆: K3 - 100 vs 200 watts

2009-12-14 Thread Johnny Siu
i am still looking for kpa800 or kpa1600. A kit serviceable by us is awaited.

73 Johnny vr2xmc

Jim Miller KG0KP wrote: 
 Yes, 200 watts is better than 100 and it may even be possible to put it in 
 the K3, but then you will want 400 or 600 and that is not the way to get it.
 IMHO, there is a lot to be gained by going from 100 to 400 or 500 watts (or 
 pick your own number) and not really much benefit beyond that to go all the 
 way to 1500 unless you are trying to bust pileups.  There are several 
 amplifiers out there, even new, that aren't really all that expensive.  If 
 you just want to talk mostly anywhere anytime, 400-600 watts will do the 
 trick for all practical purposes.  AL811, new list is 749 and will do better 
 than 500 and the ALS500 if you want solid state (849 new list) from 12 
 volts will do 500 watts just fine (battery close enough and mutiple short 
 #10 wires to it).  Used they are very reasonable.
 I am glad I have a SUPER Radio they put their time into and will put my own 
 amp behind it.
 K3 #1442, 73, de Jim KG0KP
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[Elecraft] K3 100w vs 200w

2009-12-14 Thread rfenabled
Any amp will sell...period.

Mobile use of an amp needs to strike a balance between watts and amps in each 
different setup.

I think most agree the Elecraft amps (plenty of customers waiting) will be good.

If Kenwood have a good sales volume on their 200w mobile, why not have a 
manufacturer release some competition?

In my case, mobile with 200w creates NO power supply issues (TS-480HX) and I 
would much rather have a purpose built Elecraft PA that would produce 200W.

So why not?

Not all K3 users want, or are legally able to use, more than 400W, so, what is 
wrong with customers requesting a new product such as a 200w PA that can be 
matched up to their existing K3?

Gary
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m

2009-12-14 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
In 1963's telephone school for newly employed wet-behind-the-ears ATT
testboardmen, we were taught 3 db as the discernible change, and the
reason why circuits that toned out more than a half db off had to be
patched out of service and adjusted spot on.  The only way to get from
anywhere to anywhere with a long distance circuit was to switch
shorter circuits together end to end, six times a half db was 3 db.

You could plainly hear  DC - Chicago - LA combos getting long and we'd
make lists to pull out on midnight tours. Spent three years doing
that. Until we got transistorized  line bays later on that were more
stable than the vaccum tube design, it was work a lot of overtime.

Their maintenance schedule, the tens of thousands of of testboardmen
they hired was based on the Bell Laboratories research on the matter.
For that reason I may have an attachment to it, as ultimately it paid
for my first house and car and put my kids through college, and is now
paying retirement.  If they'd said 2 dB maybe I never get hired.

If one wants to dig up the research, it's found in the Bell System
Technical Journal (BSTJ). This would be the stuff that everyone else
refers to:

'C. F. Sacia and G. W. Beck, The Power of Fundamental Speech
Sounds, Bell Syst. Tech. J., vol. 5, pp. 395-403 (1926)'

'Harvey Fletcher and W.A. Munson,
Loudness, Its Definition, Measurement, and Calculation,
Bell Syst Tech J., vol 12, issue 4 pp 377 ff.(October 1933)' Abstract:

[Empirical formula for calculating loudness of any steady sound
from analysis of intensity and frequency of its components developed;
based on fundamental properties of hearing mechanism in such way that
scale of loudness values results; in order to determine form of
function representing this loudness scale, measurements were made of
loudness levels]


73, Guy.

On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 10:07 PM, Bill Johnson k9...@live.com wrote:

 In technical school after being a HAM for over 9 years I learned that it took 
 10Db change in level to perceive a doubling of audible signal level,,, 3 db 
 hard to detect.  I worked on modems during the Vietnam at a site for 1 year 
 after tech school and all our old equipment was lab quality.  I did this all 
 day long for 6 days a week for a year.  I know and heard what I write.


 Bill
 K9YEQ
 K2-#35 (2 more), KX1-#35, K3, TS2000, IC7000, etc.




 From: r...@cobi.biz
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 14:16:54 -0800
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 150 watt boots for 160m

 Quite right Bill, in an audio laboratory or perhaps in a very quiet
 telephone circuit.

 But radio communications is different according to what I learned in school,
 lo' these many years past. Over half a century ago most radio communications
 engineers began using 3 dB (2:1 power ratio) as the minimum change in a
 signal level that would normally be just discernable to the listener,
 considering typical band noise and QSB. That was based in actual on-the-air
 observations by a great many operators over time.

 When considering changing my power level, I never consider it worthwhile to
 change less than 3 dB and more typically 6 to 10 dB as the minimum worth
 bothering with (e.g. shifting from a K2/10 at 10-15 watts CW to a K2/100 was
 a just worthwhile shift).

 When I was much younger and more innocent I used to scramble for each
 little watt, exulting in running 30 watts instead of 20 watts from a 6L6,
 for example, or tweaking my 6146 rig to run 90 instead of 75 watts and
 feeling sure that made a big difference. It sure seemed to produce more
 results from calls. But, looking back over logs over time, it was clearly an
 illusion..

 That's when I acquired the sign that still hangs over my desk to remind me
 that Believing is Seeing.

 So I don't argue with people who want to make what is a quantifiable silly
 choice. Instead I say, If you want to do it and you believe it's worth it,
 do it.

 I'm no different. After all, we humans make most of our choices based on
 emotion and then we use rational logic to justify the choice.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From 100 to 150, for 1.7 dB, when Bell Laboratories research (with
 huge capital investment and telephone maintenance dollars on the line)
 determined that 3 dB was the signal strength change discernment for
 most people?

 I'm not sure who said 3 dB was the minimum detectable by a listener but I
 believe it's incorrect. 1 dB roughly matched the smallest attenuation
 detectable to an average listener. (see below)

 The decibel originates from methods used to quantify reductions in audio
 levels in telephone circuits. These losses were originally measured in units
 of Miles of Standard Cable (MSC), where 1 MSC corresponded to the loss of
 power over a 1 mile (approximately 1.6 km) length of standard telephone
 cable at a frequency of 5000 radians per second (795.8 Hz) and roughly
 matched the smallest attenuation detectable to an average listener. Standard
 telephone cable was 

Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2009-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

That answer depends on which set of specifications you want to believe.

I am saying that the Absolute Maximum Specification for the Maxim 
MAX1406 for Vss (pin 8) is -14 volts - you can check the data sheet for 
yourself.  Yes, many KPA100s exceed that value - note that the KPA100 DC 
voltage chart lists the nominal voltage at U4 pin 8 at -22 volts.
Whether that is a cause for failure of the chip is reason for 
speculation, there is not enough data to say yeah or nay. .
What I have offered is a way to reduce the Vss voltage to the MAX1406 
without also reducing the bias voltage to the KPA100 T/R switch.  That 
involves removing D8, and D8 alone.  The data sheet Electrical 
Characteristics current for pin 8 (Iss) is typical 185 uA with a maximum 
of 500 uA. for a Vss of -13.2 volts Minimum to -10.8 Maximum - that is 
not a lot of current draw on that pin.

I am stating that a Vss (U4 pin 8) voltage less than -14 volts exceeds 
the Absolute Maximum Voltage rating per the MAX1406 datasheet - nothing 
more and nothing less.

73,
Don W3FPR

n0jrn wrote:
 Don:

 Just to clarify !

 The -28V's I'm seeing at pin 8 of U4 is measured without the IC installed.

 Lets say for the sake of conversation that I install a good MAX1406 and it 
 draws on the rectifier circuit a minimal amount.

 Would / could that bring the -28V's back into specs for this chip???.   ( I 
 have to figure Wayne designed the circuit taking this draw into 
 consideration )

 OR  is my -28V's so abnormal that I need to be looking at other issues 
 in my rectifier pack to bring this negative voltage back into spec ???

 Could the negative voltage I'm getting be responsible for damaging this chip 
 ???

 I have 2 new chips coming from Mouser.   I'm not installing them until I'm 
 satisfied that I've checked and double checked   EVERYTHING   involved.

 Thanks again and happy holidays to the group:

 72 Jerry N0JRN
 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
 To: n0jrn n0...@mchsi.com
 Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem


   
 Jerry,

 I will take back what I said about U4 - it is faulty.
 That negative voltage is there only to allow the RS-232 drivers to produce 
 a negative level, the current draw should be minimal.
 The only thing U4 does is convert RS-232 levels to TTL levels and 
 vice-versa.

 Actually -28 volts is a bit much and does exceed the maximum speced 
 voltage for the chip.  -12 volts is more than sufficient and even -5
 

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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 9.0.716 / Virus Database: 270.14.107/2564 - Release Date: 12/14/09 
 02:37:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 100w vs 200w

2009-12-14 Thread juergen piezo

Hi Gary

What we dont want to see from Elecraft is cheap 12 volt PA for the K3. We need 
some high performance high voltage fets with better IMD performance.

If a 500 Watt FET amp is to be offered maybe they can be sold with one 250 watt 
module as standard, and the other 250 watt module as a option.  A decent 
inbuilt power supply would be a great option

I also run a TS480HX mobile, and those who say  3db is worth nothing should try 
 switching between 200 watts and 100 watts on 40 meter DX  when operating 
mobile. They will be very surprised how effective it is.  I am very happy with 
the HX, so  happy that I sold  my SGC 500 watt amp. If I was ever going to run 
a mobile amp again it would be a 1KW amp.

A mobile AMP from Elecraft would be another option. Especially one that mas a 
built in DC to DC converter. It would be nice to be able to run 800 watts from 
the mobile. Such a amp would use high voltage FETS with a DC to DC converter. I 
would suggest a product like this would be a big hit. Mobile operation with 
high performance screwdriver antennas  has cult following at the moment.

What we dont want to see is more Class C crap like so many of those RM Italy 
AMPS on the ham bands. Its very disturbing to see hams run this class C rubbish 
as their main station amp.   I think there is a huge opportunity for some 
company to produce a decent  500 watt FCC approved amp thats affordable with 
decent IMD performance. 

After all who wants to be blackmailed by the ever increasing prices and 
availability of Russian tubes, Chinese rubbish tubes and planned obsolescence? 
I certainly dont want to play this game anymore.

5 votes for anything solid state.

John
--- On Mon, 12/14/09, rfenab...@gmail.com rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: rfenab...@gmail.com rfenab...@gmail.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 100w vs 200w
 To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, December 14, 2009, 9:15 PM
 Any amp will sell...period.
 
 Mobile use of an amp needs to strike a balance between
 watts and amps in each different setup.
 
 I think most agree the Elecraft amps (plenty of customers
 waiting) will be good.
 
 If Kenwood have a good sales volume on their 200w mobile,
 why not have a manufacturer release some competition?
 
 In my case, mobile with 200w creates NO power supply issues
 (TS-480HX) and I would much rather have a purpose built
 Elecraft PA that would produce 200W.
 
 So why not?
 
 Not all K3 users want, or are legally able to use, more
 than 400W, so, what is wrong with customers requesting a new
 product such as a 200w PA that can be matched up to their
 existing K3?
 
 Gary
 Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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