Re: [Elecraft] Re: OT: K440XV?

2010-11-13 Thread Gary Gregory
Um, guy's, I am surrounded by millions of acres of real estate and one 2M
repeater...:-)

I would need an eleventeen element yagi on a massive boom to just key it
sometimes from some of the places I frequent...not a worth while investment
for a three thousand dollar radio when my trusty old Yucksu 2M set get's
used once in a blue moon..:-)

On a more serious note though, I know of one K3 out here with the 2M module
and it works quite well but Oz is not really the place where a 70cm option
would sell well..I think

Now if you guys were asking for 4 antenna inputs (tx/rx) that would sure get
my attention...hence I am eagerly awaiting the desktop/remote tuner that is
coming. Wouldn't that be nice to be able to squeeze inside a K3...wow!!!

That would get me running for the check book...:-)

73's I gotta go do some DX on 20M

Gary

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 6:36 AM, Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk wrote:

 Hello James and Gary,

 It is a good idea of K440XV.  However, we have to look at the price as
 well.  If
 you just want something in the FM mode, any price near the K144XV could be
 expensive.  Any FM mobile rig will give you the answer.

 If you go for a real UHF based station, the frequency and power stability
 of
 K440XV are of primary importance.
  cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC



 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
 收件人﹕ Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com
 副本(CC) Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/13 (六) 1:10:01 PM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] OT: K440XV?

 That's a good point Gary.  One big difference and advantage with the K3
 though is its modular construction.  If an internal transverter were to go
 kaput, I imagine that one could just disable it in the settings until its
 repaired or replaced.  HF would still work fine.  That may not be the case
 with something like the TS-2000 or Icom's upcoming IC-9100.

 Personally, a UHF rather than VHF option would have been better for me.  I
 could see myself using the K3 as a UHF base station if that option were
 made
 available.  There really isn't that much activity on 2m in my neck of the
 woods except for the local hams who hang out on 146.520.  There are several
 2 meter machines in close proximity, but I've never heard anything on them
 except for the occasional broadcast ID.  On the other hand, NYC has a lot
 of
 activity on 440.  More so than in any other part of the US I've been in.

 Anyway, I may still purchase the K144XV for experimentation.  I've got good
 height at my location, and a small log-periodic for 2m on the balcony might
 be fun to play around with.

 73,
 James K2QI

 On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 11:56 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Yep, wishful thinking I reckon.
 
  There are two options I would not contemplate, 2M and 70CM and for that
  matter any higher frequencies.
 
  DC to Daylight radios might be attractive until something goes wrong,
 then
  your 'all in one box' system CAN take you off air completely and that for
 me
  would be kinda bad...no, make that a disaster...I just gotta have my
 daily
  HF 'fix' :-)
 
  YMMV
 
  Gary
 
  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 4:26 AM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Hello group,
 
  Is there any hardware limitation preventing the design and
 implementation
  of
  an internal UHF transverter?  In this day and age of DC to Daylight
 boxes,
  I'm surprised that Elecraft only has a VHF module available for the K3.
   For
  me, 2 meters isn't so useful in NYC.  If given the option, I would
 rather
  have a UHF module in order to take advantage of the many active
 repeaters
  near me.
 
  I know it's a long shot, but it would be nice to have an all-in-one K3
  that
  can go from 160 to 1.2Ghz.  Wishful thinking perhaps?
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN







-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679, P3 #546
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K440XV?

2010-11-13 Thread Olli
James,

if your only interest is 440 FM then a handheld or mobile TRX should be a much 
cheaper solution. ;-))

Having fitted the K144XV in my K3 I would not see any available space anymore 
to 
also fit a 70 and/or 23 cm transverter inside, too. With all the options space 
is getting rare inside. ;-))

And I don't think that lots of people would fit a K440XV instead of a K144XV 
inside meaning you have 160 - 6 m coverage plus 440 in one box but skipping 144 
MHz. Sure this is no good business model, at least to my mind. ;-))

But maybe you would like to use Elecraft's external transverters which 
integrate 
nicely, i.e. besides the external box you completely control everything from 
the 
K3 itself including frequency display. Can it get any better? ;-))

73, Olli - DH8BQA


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and SteppIR controller

2010-11-13 Thread Pete F5VNB
Using the Y cable in the serial feed from the P3 to the K3 works here.
Perhaps something has changed in your setup?
I now prefer using LP-Bridge to feed the SteppIR because it sends the tx 
frequency to the SteppIR when working split.

73, Pete F5VNB

On 12/11/2010 23:37, zumbr...@comcast.net wrote:
 Good afternoon to the group.  How do I configure the K3, P3 and SteppIR 
 controller so that the K3 P3 will cause the SteppIR to change bands.  Before 
 the P3 I had no trouble controlling the SteepIR with the K3.  73, Steve
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[Elecraft] UK Elecraft Net

2010-11-13 Thread Ian Maude
Hi all,
I will be running the net as usual tomorrow morning on 3658 +/- QRM at
09:00z.  I hope to hear you there.

73 Ian
--
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC  HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.m0scg.org.uk
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[Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
Outstanding!

I have been spotting and working weak signal DX on 40m tonight.  I am able to
copy and work stations with S-3 signals on 40m here in TX with the APF On.

I worked ZL2MS and was able to give him a 549 report.  We were both running
100w.  His antenna a GP and mine a half sloper.  His report to me was 349, so I
believe my advantage was the APF.  It cuts right through the noise on 40m here
in Arlington, TX.

The filter in the rig is the 250Hz CW filter.

Good Job Y'All

Oh, and I am finding these weak signals with my new P3 ;o)

73,

Tom Childers
Radio Amateur N5GE
Licensed since 1976
QCWA Member 35102

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[Elecraft] K2 Alignment

2010-11-13 Thread Ian Liston-Smith

K2 s/n 6905

I have just got to the 40-metre TX alignment and peaked up L1/L2; minor 
issue/observation.

The power output varies sometimes when [TUNE] is selected. Set to 2W and 
sometimes it's about 1.5W and sometimes 2.5W.

I've checked the output on a 20 MHz scope and there is no obvious instability. 
Battery 11.7, volts current about 1.26A when on higher output and about 1.1A 
when it's jumped to the lower output. I have not seen this change during TUNE, 
just when hitting TUNE, rx, TUNE, etc.

When adjusting the power control and looking at the output on the scope, there 
are discrete jumps rather than a smooth variation. Presumably this is normal, 
but if the power setting is set on the edge of a 'jump' then maybe this is to 
be expected...? Seems a bit strange is this is the case. Maybe it does not 
occur in normal use?

I have had a quick look in the archive (power varies) but not found anything 
that really matches these symptoms.

Any thoughts?

Thanks and regards,

Ian, G4JQT


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any takers?

2010-11-13 Thread 4X4DK-AMI SHAMI
Hello Wayne

 

I'll be glad to test 4.21 and let you know how it works.

I am still playing with 4.18 and the APF is working very good, at least as
good compared to my FT1000D.

 

73 Ami

 

4X4DK

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment

2010-11-13 Thread David Pratt
Nothing to worry about, Ian.  The KAT3 automatically reduces the power
while tuning up to protect the relays.  But you do need to set the power
control to over about 5W or else you will get a Lo P warning, which
indicates that the power is set too low for the KAT3 to perform the
tuning operation.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Ian Liston-Smith ian...@hotmail.co.uk writes

The power output varies sometimes when [TUNE] is selected. Set to 2W
and sometimes it's about 1.5W and sometimes 2.5W.
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds, England |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any takers?

2010-11-13 Thread David Quental
Hello Wayne and all Elecrafters,

I am a CW operator 100 % of time, so I tested, and still test, the APF
function.

Due to the fact that I have a simple mobile antenna in my balcony I do
not RX strong CW signals, however I did a qso with HA4FF some minuts
ago. In fact APF improves signal quality if CW is steady. With my
antenna limitations, with bad RX, it amplifies also some noise, it seems
for me. However despite my antenna situation APF works fine. Maybe mid
of December I will have an MFJ-1786X.

Best 73.

CT1DRB
David Quental

 Hello Wayne

  

 I'll be glad to test 4.21 and let you know how it works.

 I am still playing with 4.18 and the APF is working very good, at least as
 good compared to my FT1000D.

  

 73 Ami

  

 4X4DK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any takers?

2010-11-13 Thread David Quental
Hello again,

just to say that I am using a 250hz filter.

Best 73 to all.

CT1DRB
David Quental


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any takers?

2010-11-13 Thread Bob Garceau
When will the rest of us get the release?
It's my understanding that APF is only a beta release.


W1EQ, Bob


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Quental
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 7:13 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any
takers?

Hello again,

just to say that I am using a 250hz filter.

Best 73 to all.

CT1DRB
David Quental


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Re: [Elecraft] Day 1: Fried something already?

2010-11-13 Thread Andrew Moore
Glad you got it working.  In the future, destroying the part *carefully* is
the way to go -- hack away at it with pliers, dremel, whatever.  But do it
carefully:

- too much stress and prying can rip the vias and pads off the board,
leaving you with (possibly) a bigger problem than before

- if you're cutting or dremel'ing it away, you're probably showwering the
rest of board with tiny metal shavings

..
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Ian,

What you are seeing in TUNE is normal.  The power control is not as 
responsive in TUNE as it is in normal operation.
There is a reason for it - think of those using a manual tuner.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 6:28 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote:
 K2 s/n 6905

 I have just got to the 40-metre TX alignment and peaked up L1/L2; minor 
 issue/observation.

 The power output varies sometimes when [TUNE] is selected. Set to 2W and 
 sometimes it's about 1.5W and sometimes 2.5W.

 I've checked the output on a 20 MHz scope and there is no obvious 
 instability. Battery 11.7, volts current about 1.26A when on higher output 
 and about 1.1A when it's jumped to the lower output. I have not seen this 
 change during TUNE, just when hitting TUNE, rx, TUNE, etc.

 When adjusting the power control and looking at the output on the scope, 
 there are discrete jumps rather than a smooth variation. Presumably this is 
 normal, but if the power setting is set on the edge of a 'jump' then maybe 
 this is to be expected...? Seems a bit strange is this is the case. Maybe it 
 does not occur in normal use?

 I have had a quick look in the archive (power varies) but not found 
 anything that really matches these symptoms.

 Any thoughts?

 Thanks and regards,

 Ian, G4JQT


   
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[Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread Barry
Not being a programmer, I'm just wondering how seemingly unrelated 
features get broken with firmware changes.

For example, the current decrease in SSB power out with APF.
Another example, the frequency shift casued by chaining memory buffers.

Tnx,
Barry

-- 

Barry Kutner, W2UP Lakewood, CO

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[Elecraft] [K3] CP antenna article in Dec QST

2010-11-13 Thread Edward R. Cole
My 144-MHz dual-polarity diversity receiver is exactly what you 
describe, only for HF in your case:  two orthogonal antennas, each 
fed to one of the K3 receivers.  In my case a dual-channel 144-MHz Rx 
converter is feeding 28-MHz to the K3 and fed by my X-yagis.  To 
observe the polarity effects the two separate receiver audio streams 
are fed to a a computer which runs Linrad, a program for weak-signal 
reception that also resolves the polarity angle from the two 
orthogonal signals.

http://www.kl7uw.com/eme144.htm
http://g7rau.demon.co.uk/sm5bsz/index.htm

No fancy coax network is needed; just make the baluns and feedlines identical.

73, Ed
BTW Eric is a member of the ARRL 600m Experimental Group: WD2XSH.

--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:31:56 -
From: Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] CP antenna article in Dec QST [was:
 Education   please]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 6720a8423c184619a1be732734b53...@billhp9250
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Just as a heads-up for anyone interested in this subject -- in the December
QST just now arriving in subscribers' hands, there is a cool article on X-O
circular polarization (CP) antennas. The author (Eric Nichols, KL7AJ)
discusses the fact that all F-layer ionospheric propagation is actually
circular and arrives at the receiving antenna by way of one of two different
refraction paths, depending on... well, you can read the article for the
theoretical details. He says all of this has actually been well understood
in physics and radio engineering circles since the 1930s, but (with a few
exceptions) has had scant mention in the ham radio literature.

The executive summary is that you can build a receive antenna (which
empirically demonstrates and proves the theory) consisting of two inverted
vee antennas constructed around a central support, with the four legs
arranged accurately such that the slopes of the legs are all identical, the
angles between the legs are all 90 degrees, and the two feedlines (connected
through identical baluns) are precisely the same length. By then inserting a
1/4-wavelength (90 degree) delay line in one dipole's feedline and then
adding the signals together through a T or some more sophisticated combiner,
you will get either a large increase in signal strength with respect to
either dipole individually, OR a commensurately large loss of signal
strength with respect to either dipole individually -- depending on which
variety of circular polarization (X-wave or O-wave) you are getting from the
station being received at the moment.

This is one kind of orthogonal receiving antenna that could have very
practical uses on the HF bands, especially if you have a diversity-capable
receiver such as the K3.

One possibility I can think of: You could set up two separate X-O inverted
vee antenna systems on two separated support masts, each magnetically
aligned as described in the article, with one antenna set up for X waves and
the other set up for O waves. Connect the X-wave configured antenna to one
receiver, the O-wave configured antenna to the other receiver. And say
goodbye to a lot of the QSB normally associated with F-layer-propagated
reception! (At least it seems to me that it would have that effect.)

Another possibility: use ultra-fast PIN diode switching of the 90-degree
delay line and reconstruct both an X and O output from a single antenna.
Since even PIN diodes probably can't switch faster than, say, one cycle at
14 MHz (about 72 nanoseconds), I don't know if this would work, as you would
be switching multiple cycles and fractions of cycles (asynchronously) back
and forth... Would this matter? You would end up with a 3-dB loss on each
leg, but that in itself should be trivial; absolute sensitivity is not an
issue at HF. But would the chopped-up waves be properly demodulated in the
receivers?

This is about where the engineering of it goes over my head... Comments?

Bill W5WVO




73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-800*w, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-winter?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
*temp not in service 
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[Elecraft] K3 v. 4.21

2010-11-13 Thread Roy Morris
The 4.21 firmware seems to have normalized the mic gain setting.  On 4.18 I had 
to reduce the mic gain and reduce TXG VCE to 0dB.  I have left TXG VCE at 0dB 
and all is still well.  APF appears to work fine now.  It is very smooth and no 
artifacts.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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[Elecraft] P3/K3 Probelm Oscilation

2010-11-13 Thread bruce whitney
Every 7 seconds or so the P3 makes a momentary audible beep sound (from the box 
itself) and the displayed noise level jumps 10 dB - leaving a horizontal red 
trace all the way across the waterfall. I do not hear or detect anything 
corresponsding to this in the K3 output. This just started recently. Should I 
send it back for repair?
Bruce W8RA
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K440XV?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Hi Olli,

My primary interest would have been for 70cm FM, but I'm open to
experimentation.  I'm still haven't ruled out purchasing the K144XV just for
that reason.  A small log-periodic and a 160 watt mirage 2m amplifier might
be fun to play with.

Anyway, I guess I should say that it would have been nice if it was
possible to have 2m/70cm internal transverter, rather than just 2m alone.
My original question was more or less leading to that; what sort of
limitations exist in the K3's hardware that prevented such a module from
being designed in the first place?

73 de James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 4:07 AM, Oliver Olli Dröse dro...@necg.de wrote:

 James,

 if your only interest is 440 FM then a handheld or mobile TRX should be a
 much
 cheaper solution. ;-))

 Having fitted the K144XV in my K3 I would not see any available space
 anymore to
 also fit a 70 and/or 23 cm transverter inside, too. With all the options
 space
 is getting rare inside. ;-))

 And I don't think that lots of people would fit a K440XV instead of a
 K144XV
 inside meaning you have 160 - 6 m coverage plus 440 in one box but skipping
 144
 MHz. Sure this is no good business model, at least to my mind. ;-))

 But maybe you would like to use Elecraft's external transverters which
 integrate
 nicely, i.e. besides the external box you completely control everything
 from the
 K3 itself including frequency display. Can it get any better? ;-))

 73, Olli - DH8BQA


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73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread Wayne Burdick
Even though features may not be related, one can cause side-effects in  
another due to unintentional modification of variables. Of course we  
jump through a lot of hoops to avoid this, but programmers are  
(unfortunately) human.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 13, 2010, at 5:45 AM, Barry wrote:

 Not being a programmer, I'm just wondering how seemingly unrelated
 features get broken with firmware changes.

 For example, the current decrease in SSB power out with APF.
 Another example, the frequency shift casued by chaining memory  
 buffers.

 Tnx,
 Barry

 -- 

 Barry Kutner, W2UP Lakewood, CO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements -- any takers?

2010-11-13 Thread Wayne Burdick
As soon as the field test confirms that all is well, we'll do a beta  
release, putting the files on our web site. If the wider beta testing  
shows no problems, we'll update it to a production release a few  
days later.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 13, 2010, at 4:46 AM, Bob Garceau wrote:

 When will the rest of us get the release?
 It's my understanding that APF is only a beta release.


 W1EQ, Bob


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Quental
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 7:13 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware with APF and SSB improvements --  
 any
 takers?

 Hello again,

 just to say that I am using a 250hz filter.

 Best 73 to all.

 CT1DRB
 David Quental


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 v. 4.21

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
I concur Roy; something has changed again in the way mic gain is handled
with this firmware iteration.  Prior to 4.14, I had to leave mic gain set to
4 or 5 and bias to low.  Those settings gave me 5-7 bars ALC on normal voice
peaks.  This is with the MH2 hand mic.  After 4.18, I noticed that I had to
turn mic gain up to 15 in order to achieve the same results.  Now with 4.21,
mic gain has to be reduced to 5 in order to keep the ALC happy.

One thing that I'm not sure about however is the difference in setting
required for SSB and FM.  When testing using FM, I have to increase mic gain
by 50% to see a similar ALC readout.  I don't remember if it behaved as such
prior to 4.14.  Can anyone pse confirm?

73 de James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:20 AM, Roy Morris w4...@carolina.rr.com wrote:

 The 4.21 firmware seems to have normalized the mic gain setting.  On 4.18 I
 had to reduce the mic gain and reduce TXG VCE to 0dB.  I have left TXG VCE
 at 0dB and all is still well.  APF appears to work fine now.  It is very
 smooth and no artifacts.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 v. 4.21

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Correction - on FM, I have to increase mic gain settings by 200%, not 50% as
I had written.

For example, what might sound fine using a gain setting of 5 on SSB will not
produce full modulation on FM at the same setting.  I have to turn gain up
to 15 for similar results.

I'm very curious about this now.  Can anyone test their K3 and reply?

Tnx,
James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 12:13 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:

 I concur Roy; something has changed again in the way mic gain is handled
 with this firmware iteration.  Prior to 4.14, I had to leave mic gain set to
 4 or 5 and bias to low.  Those settings gave me 5-7 bars ALC on normal voice
 peaks.  This is with the MH2 hand mic.  After 4.18, I noticed that I had to
 turn mic gain up to 15 in order to achieve the same results.  Now with 4.21,
 mic gain has to be reduced to 5 in order to keep the ALC happy.

 One thing that I'm not sure about however is the difference in setting
 required for SSB and FM.  When testing using FM, I have to increase mic gain
 by 50% to see a similar ALC readout.  I don't remember if it behaved as such
 prior to 4.14.  Can anyone pse confirm?

 73 de James K2QI

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[Elecraft] elecraft for sale

2010-11-13 Thread Jed Barton
Hey guys,

Would this be the best place to put an elecraft k3 up for sale?
Selling it for a friend who doesn't have internet access at the moment.

Thanks,
Jed

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and SteppIR controller

2010-11-13 Thread Bill Conkling
Hi, I looked quickly ahead and didn't see an answer so here's my 2cents
worth.

I'm not a STeppIR user, but from reading this and other reflectors, I think
STeppIR make a RS232 Y cable that allows the radio on someother divice to
talk while the STeppIR controller only listens, not taking an active part in
the 'conversation'.  This allows the logging program to work in that the
logger will ask for frequency information, and the STeppIR controler hears
the request/answer and responds.

Check this out on the STeppIR web site.

...bc  nr4c

-Original Message-
From: zumbr...@comcast.net [mailto:zumbr...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 5:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and SteppIR controller

Good afternoon to the group.  How do I configure the K3, P3 and SteppIR
controller so that the K3 P3 will cause the SteppIR to change bands.  Before
the P3 I had no trouble controlling the SteepIR with the K3.  73, Steve 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Bill W4ZV

For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
with
measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak is
now
zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

Zero beat = 7040.021
Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
-1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
-6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
-1 dB = 8 Hz BW
-6 dB = 28 Hz BW

I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 30
Hz
design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when trying
to
detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
difference in marginal conditions.

I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
which is
very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

Nice job Elecraft!

73, Bill


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5735892.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Day 1: Fried something already?

2010-11-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That's exactly why I avoid power tools to destroy a part that needs to
come off except as a last resort. Tiny bits of metallic trash can cause
endless trouble now and in the future as an overlooked bit wiggles into just
the wrong position. Whenever I must do that I work with the board upside
down so things fall away, not to the side on down directly to the board.
Clumsy, but keeps the trash off the board and surrounding components. 

One danger with something like a relay and the plated through holes is that
a fillet of solder forms under the relay if too much solder was applied in
the first place. Indeed, that's often been the issue with people shorting
the signal path to a crystal can in the K2. It can be very difficult to get
all of that solder off from underneath and chopping the part to bits is the
only answer. 

I have found that working each pin separately - removing solder then
wiggling it until it's free - gets the job done 90% of the time. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

Glad you got it working.  In the future, destroying the part *carefully* is
the way to go -- hack away at it with pliers, dremel, whatever.  But do it
carefully:

- too much stress and prying can rip the vias and pads off the board,
leaving you with (possibly) a bigger problem than before

- if you're cutting or dremel'ing it away, you're probably showwering the
rest of board with tiny metal shavings

..
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[Elecraft] 4.21 APF impressions

2010-11-13 Thread Howard K2HK

Been playing with the new 4.21 release for a few hours. My impressions of the 
APC  is it is an excellent addition to the CW op's tools. Smoothly boosts the 
weak signal out of the noise. Thanks to both Elecraft and the reflector members 
who pushed for this refinement. Although we might get tired of seeing similar 
posts urging a wanted addition it sure is beneficial when the results are like 
this one.

The only change I note on SSB is that I can turn my gain down to 5~6 with a 
Yamaha CM500(?) It was previously at ~19. One other note I can't hear any 
difference if I am using High or Low bias. Checked with monitor and DVR.

73,
Howard..K2HK




  
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Re: [Elecraft] 4.21 APF impressions

2010-11-13 Thread David Pratt
Has it now been released, Howard?  I've just been trawling all the FTP 
folders without success.  Please advise.

David G4DMP

In a recent message, Howard K2HK k...@arrl.net writes
Been playing with the new 4.21 release for a few hours.



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Re: [Elecraft] 4.21 APF impressions

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Howard,

One correction - the High or Low do not apply to the bias.
The thing that High and Low refer to is the range for the mic level.
You should see a change in the audio (ALC) level when switching between 
High and Low, but since your mic level is now set to a low value, there 
may only be a slight difference.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 1:36 PM, Howard K2HK wrote:
 The only change I note on SSB is that I can turn my gain down to 5~6 with a 
 Yamaha CM500(?) It was previously at ~19. One other note I can't hear any 
 difference if I am using High or Low bias. Checked with monitor and DVR.

 73,
 Howard..K2HK

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[Elecraft] K3 - Installation times for options

2010-11-13 Thread Rick Stealey

I wonder if I could get a few ideas regarding the times to install a couple 
options.
The 100 watt PA, and the KXV3 IF interface and multiple antenna input kit.

How long should I budget?

Rick  K2XT
  
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K440XV?

2010-11-13 Thread AB3EN

The 2M setup has connectors inside that lead me to think that a 70cm add on
might be in the works for next year. If not then it was a funny way to set
the 2M up ;-)
73
Dan

-

Dan AB3EN
-- 
View this message in context: 
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Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] elecraft for sale

2010-11-13 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Hard to say which place is the best Jed, but this seems to be a very good place.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Jed Barton j...@jedbarton.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, November 13, 2010 11:51:13 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] elecraft for sale

Hey guys,

Would this be the best place to put an elecraft k3 up for sale?
Selling it for a friend who doesn't have internet access at the moment.

Thanks,
Jed

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[Elecraft] K2: K2 #7029 is alive and well

2010-11-13 Thread Hans H Vollmer
Hi elecrafters

After three weeks of building my new K2 #7029 is alive and well.

The building went straight and without any proplems, thanks to the

excellent manuals from Elecraft.

The K2 #7029 is fully equipped with 100w, SSB, DSP, NB, 60m and 160m.

It reminded me about my Heath HW 101 some 40 years ago.

All was real fun.

Thanks to Elecraft for that beautiful little toy.

73 de Hans, DF5SR,

K3 #536, P3 #608 and K2 #7029

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: K2 #7029 is alive and well

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Dr Hans,

Very nice to hear! Congratulations!  Hiopefully one day when I have more
time, I too will join the ranks of K2 builders. Until then, I must be
satisfied with the K3. :)

See you on the bands OM!

73 de James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 3:18 PM, Hans H Vollmer
hans.h.voll...@t-online.dewrote:

 Hi elecrafters

 After three weeks of building my new K2 #7029 is alive and well.

 The building went straight and without any proplems, thanks to the

 excellent manuals from Elecraft.

 The K2 #7029 is fully equipped with 100w, SSB, DSP, NB, 60m and 160m.

 It reminded me about my Heath HW 101 some 40 years ago.

 All was real fun.

 Thanks to Elecraft for that beautiful little toy.

 73 de Hans, DF5SR,

 K3 #536, P3 #608 and K2 #7029

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-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
the AFV/dBV capability ...

I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
the  1 dB points are   8 Hz wide
the  6 dB points are  31 Hz wide
the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
gain is right at 9 dB.

The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
signal.

I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

 Nice job Elecraft!

 73, Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO
LOL Wayne, the day when programmers ARE NOT human is the day we had all 
better start running for the hills!

Bill W5WVO


-Original Message- 
From: Wayne Burdick
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 16:53
To: Barry
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

Even though features may not be related, one can cause side-effects in
another due to unintentional modification of variables. Of course we
jump through a lot of hoops to avoid this, but programmers are
(unfortunately) human.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 13, 2010, at 5:45 AM, Barry wrote:

 Not being a programmer, I'm just wondering how seemingly unrelated
 features get broken with firmware changes.

 For example, the current decrease in SSB power out with APF.
 Another example, the frequency shift casued by chaining memory
 buffers.

 Tnx,
 Barry

 -- 

 Barry Kutner, W2UP Lakewood, CO

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Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread Kevin
Their are code shooters which create code from one's instructions.  They  
are fast but not the best at crafting algorithms which save space and  
time.  Much like looking at the object files created by compilers when one  
views the raw code spewed by a code shooter a software engineer cringes.   
Let the compilers craft the bulk of the code to save programmer time but  
when necessary get into the assembly language files and craft the best and  
fastest code possible.

Maybe one day there will be a good code shooter but programming is still a  
craft which requires insight and skill.
73,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:07:21 -0800, Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO  
w5...@cybermesa.net wrote:

 LOL Wayne, the day when programmers ARE NOT human is the day we had all
 better start running for the hills!

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Wayne Burdick
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 16:53
 To: Barry
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

 Even though features may not be related, one can cause side-effects in
 another due to unintentional modification of variables. Of course we
 jump through a lot of hoops to avoid this, but programmers are
 (unfortunately) human.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 On Nov 13, 2010, at 5:45 AM, Barry wrote:

 Not being a programmer, I'm just wondering how seemingly unrelated
 features get broken with firmware changes.

 For example, the current decrease in SSB power out with APF.
 Another example, the frequency shift casued by chaining memory
 buffers.

 Tnx,
 Barry

 --

 Barry Kutner, W2UP Lakewood, CO

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Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread george fritkin
One of my  programmer employees once said to me when I asked why is this beta 
taking so long to clear...he said It takes longer to debug software than 
to write it.  AMEN!!
George, W6GF

--- On Sat, 11/13/10, Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net wrote:

From: Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?
To: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com, Barry w...@comcast.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Saturday, November 13, 2010, 1:07 PM

LOL Wayne, the day when programmers ARE NOT human is the day we had all 
better start running for the hills!

Bill W5WVO


-Original Message- 
From: Wayne Burdick
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 16:53
To: Barry
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

Even though features may not be related, one can cause side-effects in
another due to unintentional modification of variables. Of course we
jump through a lot of hoops to avoid this, but programmers are
(unfortunately) human.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 13, 2010, at 5:45 AM, Barry wrote:

 Not being a programmer, I'm just wondering how seemingly unrelated
 features get broken with firmware changes.

 For example, the current decrease in SSB power out with APF.
 Another example, the frequency shift casued by chaining memory
 buffers.

 Tnx,
 Barry

 -- 

 Barry Kutner, W2UP             Lakewood, CO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO
Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't pop 
as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of course, and 
the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be a 
matter of personal preference.

I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to play 
with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other opinions. So 
far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately peaky.

(Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

Bill W5WVO


-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
the AFV/dBV capability ...

I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
the  1 dB points are   8 Hz wide
the  6 dB points are  31 Hz wide
the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
gain is right at 9 dB.

The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
signal.

I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak 
 is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 
 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when 
 trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

 Nice job Elecraft!

 73, Bill


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[Elecraft] K3 Frequency Memory Editor

2010-11-13 Thread Doug Wetzel
Anybody on the list having trouble getting K3 Freq Memory Editor to load
properly?  I have one XP machine on which it works fine, and one on which it
always throws a fault and quits.  AFAIK, the two machines are at the same
OS/SP level and both have the latest .NET service pack.

Doug Wetzel
K7IP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Frequency Memory Editor

2010-11-13 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Can you give some details about the fault?

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 1:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Frequency Memory Editor

Anybody on the list having trouble getting K3 Freq Memory Editor to load
properly?  I have one XP machine on which it works fine, and one on which it
always throws a fault and quits.  AFAIK, the two machines are at the same
OS/SP level and both have the latest .NET service pack.

Doug Wetzel
K7IP
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Re: [Elecraft] How do unrelated features get broken?

2010-11-13 Thread Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
Unless you debug as you go.  You can reduce some of the bugs by debugging
sections when appropriate, but in the long run debugging takes time and many
project managers don't take that into account.

73,

Tom Childers
Radio Amateur N5GE
Licensed since 1976
QCWA Member 35102

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:21:35 -0800 (PST), george fritkin
georgefrit...@yahoo.com  wrote:

One of my  programmer employees once said to me when I asked why is this beta 
taking so long to clear...he said
 It takes longer to debug software than to write it.  AMEN!!
George, W6GF

[snip]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Installation times for options

2010-11-13 Thread Bill Conkling
I have installed several upgrades to my original K3/10.  I have found that
20 to 30 minutes will cover most items.  Filters are on the low side, the
sub-rec or 2meter xverter (Internal) might be a little more.  The longest I
have had was the KAT3 auto tuner.  It took about 15 minutes to install, but
another 30 minutes to locate the internal 'star' washer that slipped out of
my fingers, and I was determined not to apply power 'till I had found it!
It was logged in the corner, in front of the shield between a standup
capacitor and the side panel in the gap behind the front panel.  Would not
shake out.  Finally retrieved it with a 'dental' pick.  I'm getting pretty
good at removing the top panel by now.

I hope you have as much fun and enjoyment with yours as I have with mine.
The assembly was fun, but using it is even better.

Good luck!

...bc  nr4c


-Original Message-
From: Rick Stealey [mailto:rstea...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Installation times for options


I wonder if I could get a few ideas regarding the times to install a couple
options.
The 100 watt PA, and the KXV3 IF interface and multiple antenna input kit.

How long should I budget?

Rick  K2XT
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Wayne Burdick
The APF algorithm is unchanged. Lyle is going to verify. 

Wayne


http://www.elecraft.com

On Nov 13, 2010, at 1:19 PM, Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net 
wrote:

 Joe wrote:
 
 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.
 
 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't pop 
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of course, and 
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be a 
 matter of personal preference.
 
 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to play 
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other opinions. So 
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately peaky.
 
 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)
 
 Bill W5WVO
 
 
 -Original Message- 
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF
 
 
 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...
 
 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the  1 dB points are   8 Hz wide
 the  6 dB points are  31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.
 
 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.
 
 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.
 
 73,
 
... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 
 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak 
 is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:
 
 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)
 
 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW
 
 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 
 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when 
 trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.
 
 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.
 
 Nice job Elecraft!
 
 73, Bill
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Installation times for options

2010-11-13 Thread John Lemay
Hi Rick

I've recently added the 100w PA, and took a leisurely hour or so. No hassle
at all.

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Stealey
Sent: 13 November 2010 19:23
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Installation times for options


I wonder if I could get a few ideas regarding the times to install a couple
options.
The 100 watt PA, and the KXV3 IF interface and multiple antenna input kit.

How long should I budget?

Rick  K2XT
  
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__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 5617 (20101113) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com


 

__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 5617 (20101113) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Lyle Johnson

 The APF algorithm is unchanged. Lyle is going to verify.

They are identical.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF (alpha 4.21)

2010-11-13 Thread K9ZTV
I agree with Joe.

My first impression was a quieter APF (if that's the right word).  The 
peaking is certainly there, and signals that are not copyable at 50 
cycles are definitely copyable with the new APF activated (provided 
there is a copyable signal at all).  But the peaked signal doesn't take 
your breath away like it did on the earlier version.  Frankly, I prefer 
this newer tamed (if you will) iteration.  It certainly has less 
ringing.  You can't have both blasting and no ringing at the same 
time.  There has to be a sweet spot and I believe version 4.21 nails it.

I think there was some early confusion about what exactly is frozen 
when the APF is turned on.  It is the SHIFT that is locked, not the 
WIDTH.  The WIDTH control is still fully functional in APF mode with the 
bandwidth still being clearly indicated both numerically (0.05 and up) 
and by the normal width-varying graphic.  When the APF is turned on, the 
normal DUAL PB icon we have grown used to that incorporates 
upward-pointing winglets is still displayed, but in APF mode the 
winglets are positioned at the extreme ends of the line and are fixed.  
They do not change position when the WIDTH control is rotated (as they 
do when in normal DUAL PB mode).  The middle-bars between the winglets 
that show passband width DO change (as they always have) to visually 
indicate the change of bandwidth.  Fixing the winglets and locating them 
at the far ends of the graphic display is a great idea and gives further 
feedback that you are definitely in APF mode and not DUAL-PB mode.  I 
doubt anyone will confuse the two because (as in the earlier version) 
you have to enable the APF mode in menu item CONFIG: DUAL PB.

The SSB problem in version 4.18 that required higher settings of CMP and 
ALC has been fixed.  My MH2 microphone delivers the recommended 5-7 bars 
of ALC and 2-3 bars of CMP at MIC=16 and CMP=13.  These are the nominal 
settings I have always run when circumstances force me to pull the mic 
out of the drawer.  For some reason the boys on the Missouri SSB Traffic 
Net get real agitated when I check-in using a paddle.

Great job, Lyle, et al.

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
SN 21







On 11/13/2010 2:35 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the  1 dB points are   8 Hz wide
 the  6 dB points are  31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

 Nice job Elecraft!

 73, Bill


  
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[Elecraft] k2 full optional for sale

2010-11-13 Thread iz0fyl

Hello
k2 for sale
option installed:
100w, atu 100w, dsp, 160m, ssb, noiseblanker.
1100 euros plus shipping
please reply to luca.amend...@uniroma1.it
73
luca
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF (alpha 4.21)

2010-11-13 Thread Jim Cox
I agree, I like the newer version as the ringing is much less now.
Jim K4JAF


- Original Message - 
From: K9ZTV k9...@socket.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF (alpha 4.21)


I agree with Joe.

 My first impression was a quieter APF (if that's the right word).  The
 peaking is certainly there, and signals that are not copyable at 50
 cycles are definitely copyable with the new APF activated (provided
 there is a copyable signal at all).  But the peaked signal doesn't take
 your breath away like it did on the earlier version.  Frankly, I prefer
 this newer tamed (if you will) iteration.  It certainly has less
 ringing.  You can't have both blasting and no ringing at the same
 time.  There has to be a sweet spot and I believe version 4.21 nails it.

 I think there was some early confusion about what exactly is frozen
 when the APF is turned on.  It is the SHIFT that is locked, not the
 WIDTH.  The WIDTH control is still fully functional in APF mode with the
 bandwidth still being clearly indicated both numerically (0.05 and up)
 and by the normal width-varying graphic.  When the APF is turned on, the
 normal DUAL PB icon we have grown used to that incorporates
 upward-pointing winglets is still displayed, but in APF mode the
 winglets are positioned at the extreme ends of the line and are fixed.
 They do not change position when the WIDTH control is rotated (as they
 do when in normal DUAL PB mode).  The middle-bars between the winglets
 that show passband width DO change (as they always have) to visually
 indicate the change of bandwidth.  Fixing the winglets and locating them
 at the far ends of the graphic display is a great idea and gives further
 feedback that you are definitely in APF mode and not DUAL-PB mode.  I
 doubt anyone will confuse the two because (as in the earlier version)
 you have to enable the APF mode in menu item CONFIG: DUAL PB.

 The SSB problem in version 4.18 that required higher settings of CMP and
 ALC has been fixed.  My MH2 microphone delivers the recommended 5-7 bars
 of ALC and 2-3 bars of CMP at MIC=16 and CMP=13.  These are the nominal
 settings I have always run when circumstances force me to pull the mic
 out of the drawer.  For some reason the boys on the Missouri SSB Traffic
 Net get real agitated when I check-in using a paddle.

 Great job, Lyle, et al.

 73,

 Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
 SN 21







 On 11/13/2010 2:35 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the  1 dB points are   8 Hz wide
 the  6 dB points are  31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They 
 agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter 
 peak is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was 
 more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with 
 Lyle's 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when 
 trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

 Nice job Elecraft!

 73, Bill



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[Elecraft] K3_APF

2010-11-13 Thread Ken Roberson
Hello All,

Is the APF in the IF stage ?

Ken K5DNL




  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Bill W4ZV


KK7P wrote:
 
 
 The APF algorithm is unchanged. Lyle is going to verify.
 
 They are identical.
 

Maybe not quite identical.  The new algorithm is zero beat and the initial
one peaked at +10 Hz above zero beat.  It could be that guys were not tuning
to the actual peak so the residual ringing could have been several dB
stronger than the signal (relatively) making one think there was more
ringing.  Now the zero beat signal may appear stronger than the residual
ringing (on noise) since it is better centered.  BTW the filter response
measures about -4 dB at a 10 Hz offset, which is quite noticeable on weak
signals.

I personally don't notice any difference but I had been peaking each signal
using VFO-FINE in 1 Hz steps (which is how I found the +10 Hz offset in the
initial version).  

73,  Bill






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Re: [Elecraft] K3_APF

2010-11-13 Thread Bill W4ZV


K5DNL wrote:
 
 Is the APF in the IF stage ?
 

Yes in the DSP IF stage.

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement

2010-11-13 Thread phils
  

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (11/14/10) at 1800z
on 14.314 

MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon, and I will try to
swing the 

antenna in multiple directions to get as many of you as I can. We'll
try 

back east calling stations and relays too. See you then. 

73, 

Phil NS7P  BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:12px; } 
 
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[Elecraft] Help for newbie

2010-11-13 Thread Robert Redmon
I just finished putting together the basic k3(10w) and (prior to 
installing the amp and sub receiver) tried to do the 5w transmitter gain 
calibration, but am not having any luck.  The result was that the 
utility just hung and the result was the power settled at 0.0w

Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong. I have the ATU installed, 
but if I press the ANT button, I am told No ATU. I tried hooking it to 
an antenna, but the antenna doesn't seem connected. No RX, just rushing 
sound like the antenna is not connected. I suspect the path to the Ant1 
PL259 is not working for some reason.

I have backtracked and checked my work a couple times and can't find 
anything out of place.

Any help?

-- 
73, Bob K5SM

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[Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and ground
and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with the
K3??

-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] K2 deaf

2010-11-13 Thread Leslie Austin
Folks,

i have an old K2, s/n 0505 which was built by a friend, then later sold 
to me. It has started to go deaf. At first a tap on the key or paddle 
would immediately restore it to normal, but its now getting to be noisy 
most of the time and a struggle to hear signals at all sometimes.

I confess to feeling a little lost inside the rig (its more complicated 
than my lovely little K1 for sure) but I have tried checking for dry 
joints, and have been round as much as I could reach with a soldering 
iron, though the guy who built it is a skilled home-brewer and he'd be 
unlikely to have messed up like that. Besides the rig has worked well 
for years, and started playing up in a mild way perhaps two years ago, 
and just lately has got much worse.

Help!
Any suggestions to guide me would be appreciated.

Regards,
Les Austin g0nmd
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf

2010-11-13 Thread Vic K2VCO
Make sure that you have ruled out problems with coax connectors, baluns, etc. 
The 'tap on 
the key fixes it' phenomenon is common when there is a poor connection in the 
antenna system.

On 11/13/2010 4:05 PM, Leslie Austin wrote:
 Folks,

 i have an old K2, s/n 0505 which was built by a friend, then later sold
 to me. It has started to go deaf. At first a tap on the key or paddle
 would immediately restore it to normal, but its now getting to be noisy
 most of the time and a struggle to hear signals at all sometimes.

 I confess to feeling a little lost inside the rig (its more complicated
 than my lovely little K1 for sure) but I have tried checking for dry
 joints, and have been round as much as I could reach with a soldering
 iron, though the guy who built it is a skilled home-brewer and he'd be
 unlikely to have messed up like that. Besides the rig has worked well
 for years, and started playing up in a mild way perhaps two years ago,
 and just lately has got much worse.

 Help!
 Any suggestions to guide me would be appreciated.

 Regards,
 Les Austin g0nmd
-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Les.

Heed the sage advice of Vic who responded a few minutes ago.
That being said, those symptoms are typical of a poorly soldered 
connection somewhere.

It would be helpful if you could get the antenna out of the picture and 
replace it with a low level signal generator.  If it displays the same 
behavior with the signal generator, then the problem is in the K2, but 
if it does not, look at your antenna system for the solution.

Do you have the basic K2?  or the KAT2 option? or the KPA100? or the 
KAT100.  There can be several pieces in the receive path, and any of 
them are suspect until they have proven their worthiness.

If you do have multiple options, and you must use your antenna system 
for evaluation, try connecting another transceiver to the antenna system 
and see if you have the same failure - if not, then you can break down 
the K2 to its basic configuration for troubleshooting - then add the 
KAT2, KPA100, KAT100 one at a time until the failure occurs.  That will 
tell you which piece of gear to examine in detail.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 7:05 PM, Leslie Austin wrote:
 Folks,

 i have an old K2, s/n 0505 which was built by a friend, then later sold
 to me. It has started to go deaf. At first a tap on the key or paddle
 would immediately restore it to normal, but its now getting to be noisy
 most of the time and a struggle to hear signals at all sometimes.

 I confess to feeling a little lost inside the rig (its more complicated
 than my lovely little K1 for sure) but I have tried checking for dry
 joints, and have been round as much as I could reach with a soldering
 iron, though the guy who built it is a skilled home-brewer and he'd be
 unlikely to have messed up like that. Besides the rig has worked well
 for years, and started playing up in a mild way perhaps two years ago,
 and just lately has got much worse.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  James,

Remove the key from the equation.  Insert a stereo plug with the ring 
soldered to the sleeve.  Does the K3 make dashes?  If so, then you can 
blame your paddles and their plug.  If not, then there is something 
wrong with your K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 6:53 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
 moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
 paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and ground
 and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with the
 K3??

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[Elecraft] Fwd: [qrp-l.org] K8DD final update 11-13-10

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  I am deeply saddened by the loss of Hank Kohl K8DD.  He will be missed.
I knew Hank through QRP ARCI, but at times he was active on the Elecraft 
reflector too.  I am certain many of you were acquainted with Hank - 
Dayton 2011 and FDIM will just not be the same without him.

73,
Don W3FPR

 Original Message 
Subject:[qrp-l.org] K8DD final update 11-13-10
Date:   Sat, 13 Nov 2010 11:05:34 -0500
From:   Mike - WB8ICN wb8...@gmail.com
To: FP at MPNA fpqr...@mpna.com, Ian C. Purdie 
ianpur...@integritynet.com.au, G-QRP Group g...@yahoogroups.com, 
qr...@qrp-l.org qr...@qrp-l.org, qr...@mailman.qth.net



This may be the hardest email I've ever written.

At 5:33 a.m. this morning Henry Richard Kohl passed away from respiratory
complications in the ICU of Henry Ford Detroit.  Hank was surrounded by his
wife Kathie, son Andy and friends Trish and Stan Arnett.

Per his wishes there will not be a funeral, but a memorial service will
be held
sometime in the Spring.

Kath extends her thanks to everyone for their cards, prayers and well
wishes.

K8DD (SK) RIP

I'll try to write more when I'm less likely to short the keyboard with tears

Stan, AC8W

-- 


72's/73's...Mikey, WB8ICN
   www.qsl.net/wb8icn


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread The Smiths

I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q setting... At 
least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow.  Even if one perceives the 
APF as less ringy and comments on it being a good thing, that means that they 
are happy to know that the Q got widened out a little, and things seem to sound 
better. 
 
 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF
 
 Joe wrote:
 
  I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
  test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
  than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
  this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
  the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.
 
 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't pop 
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of course, and 
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be a 
 matter of personal preference.
 
 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to play 
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other opinions. So 
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately peaky.
 
 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)
 
 Bill W5WVO
 
 
 -Original Message- 
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF
 
 
 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...
 
 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.
 
 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.
 
 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.
 
 73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 
  For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
  with
  measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak 
  is
  now
  zero beat instead of +10 Hz:
 
  Zero beat = 7040.021
  Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
  -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
  -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)
 
  Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
  -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
  -6 dB = 28 Hz BW
 
  I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
  interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's 
  30
  Hz
  design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when 
  trying
  to
  detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
  difference in marginal conditions.
 
  I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
  which is
  very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.
 
  Nice job Elecraft!
 
  73, Bill
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Hi Don,

I just did that.  I can short tip to ground and get dits, but shorting ring
to ground produces nothing.

Looks like there's something wrong with the K3.  What should I look for at
this point?

Tnx,
James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  James,

 Remove the key from the equation.  Insert a stereo plug with the ring
 soldered to the sleeve.  Does the K3 make dashes?  If so, then you can blame
 your paddles and their plug.  If not, then there is something wrong with
 your K3.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 11/13/2010 6:53 PM, James Sarte wrote:

 What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
 moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
 paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and ground
 and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with
 the
 K3??




-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread The Smiths

Are you sure that the problem isn't your REF CAL settings are off from where 
you think they are?
 
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 15:02:43 -0800
 From: btipp...@alum.mit.edu
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF
 
 
 
 KK7P wrote:
  
  
  The APF algorithm is unchanged. Lyle is going to verify.
  
  They are identical.
  
 
 Maybe not quite identical. The new algorithm is zero beat and the initial
 one peaked at +10 Hz above zero beat. It could be that guys were not tuning
 to the actual peak so the residual ringing could have been several dB
 stronger than the signal (relatively) making one think there was more
 ringing. Now the zero beat signal may appear stronger than the residual
 ringing (on noise) since it is better centered. BTW the filter response
 measures about -4 dB at a 10 Hz offset, which is quite noticeable on weak
 signals.
 
 I personally don't notice any difference but I had been peaking each signal
 using VFO-FINE in 1 Hz steps (which is how I found the +10 Hz offset in the
 initial version). 
 
 73, Bill
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5736422.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Rick Prather
James,

Did you plug in to the Paddle plug or the Key plug?

Rick
K6LE

On 11/13/2010, at 3:53 , James Sarte wrote:

 What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
 moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
 paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and ground
 and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with the
 K3??
 
 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Hi Rick,

It was plugged into the Paddle jack.  I just replied to Don; did a test
where I removed the plastic plug cover and inserted the plug into the paddle
jack.  I shorted tip to ground and got dits.  Shorted ring to ground
produces nothing.

I even checked the continuity on the plug itself; all contacts are good.
Looks to me like there might be something wrong with the K3's jack or
perhaps something more... not sure yet.

Tnx,
James K2QI
On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:09 PM, Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com wrote:

 James,

 Did you plug in to the Paddle plug or the Key plug?

 Rick
 K6LE

 On 11/13/2010, at 3:53 , James Sarte wrote:

  What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
  moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
  paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and
 ground
  and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with
 the
  K3??
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN




-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-13 Thread Neil Shubert
Hi all,
Its been a long time since I tinkered with my K2 and I am getting reports
that I am a few KC's off on 20M

sure enough they sound that way too, so when I tune them in better, I am
about  7-8 Kc off frequency

what should I start looking at?


-Neil
Ac2o
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Bill W4ZV


The Smiths wrote:
 
 
 Are you sure that the problem isn't your REF CAL settings are off from
 where you think they are?
 

Quite sure...Lyle verified the +10 Hz offset and corrected it in the latest
version.

73,  Bill

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-APF-tp5735159p5736629.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 died. Where to start?

2010-11-13 Thread Oscar, WB5GCX

Don,
  Removed and re-seated the MCU.  No change in operation.  Also closely
inspected for no/bad solder -- all looks good.

  Kept thinking about if I could have done anything to cause this.  I
remembered I had both the KX1 and my K3 connected via 18 jumpers to a coax
A/B switch to share my main HF antenna.  Was doing some receiver comparisons
between the two, and have used this configuration to easily use the KX1
indoors with the main antenna.  Always before I have always disconnected the
coax from the KX1 before transmitting with the K3 (as well as moving the A/B
switch to the K3 position).

  The last time I had the KX1 hooked up this way, I may not have removed the
coax from the KX1 before using my K3 on 40m cw, and 80m SSB.  I'm not sure I
tried/used the KX1 after doing this.

  Could strong RF from the K3 maybe have fried the KX1 MCU (or other
component)?  Perhaps the A/B switch isolation is not so good -- or stray RF,
etc.?

Oscar, WB5GCX
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-died-Where-to-start-tp5734439p5736635.html
Sent from the [KX1] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Here's what I did now to rule out the actual K3 jack:

I took the rear bottom panel off.  I checked continuity with a plug
connected to the socket.  I touched ground on the plug and G on the RF main
board and that passed.  Did the same with ring R, and tip T, and all
passed.  So there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the contacts
inside the jack itself.

Strange...
-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Steve Ellington
I wonder if the solder joint for the K3's key jack is cracked. I've had that 
happen on other rigs. Shine a bright light on  the solder joint and use a 
magnifying glass to examine.
N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Hi Rick,

 It was plugged into the Paddle jack.  I just replied to Don; did a test
 where I removed the plastic plug cover and inserted the plug into the 
 paddle
 jack.  I shorted tip to ground and got dits.  Shorted ring to ground
 produces nothing.

 I even checked the continuity on the plug itself; all contacts are good.
 Looks to me like there might be something wrong with the K3's jack or
 perhaps something more... not sure yet.

 Tnx,
 James K2QI
 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:09 PM, Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 James,

 Did you plug in to the Paddle plug or the Key plug?

 Rick
 K6LE

 On 11/13/2010, at 3:53 , James Sarte wrote:

  What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the K3 a few
  moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of dots.  Right
  paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip, ring, and
 ground
  and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing right with
 the
  K3??
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN




 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread riese-k3djc
Gang 

last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
could
someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
I believe it had an isolated tip etc

Bob K3DJC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Hi Steve,

I checked the solder joints too when I was testing continuity on the jack
itself.  All looks OK.

Not sure what else can be wrong at this point.

Plug is OK, jack is OK, paddle is good, and the jack itself looks to be
soldered well onto the main board.

I'm at a loss...

73 de James K2QI




On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:40 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.comwrote:

 I wonder if the solder joint for the K3's key jack is cracked. I've had
 that happen on other rigs. Shine a bright light on  the solder joint and use
 a magnifying glass to examine.
 N4LQ
 Steve


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  James,

Based on your other posts to the reflector where you checked continuity 
inside the K3, I would suggest a new download of the firmware, save your 
configuration, then do an EE INIT.  Install the firmware via K3 Utility, 
restore your configuration and see if anything changes. If that fails to 
correct it, an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com is in order.

Why do these things always happen on the weekend??

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:09 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 Hi Don,
 I just did that.  I can short tip to ground and get dits, but shorting 
 ring to ground produces nothing.
 Looks like there's something wrong with the K3.  What should I look 
 for at this point?
 Tnx,
 James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com 
 mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  James,

 Remove the key from the equation.  Insert a stereo plug with the
 ring soldered to the sleeve.  Does the K3 make dashes?  If so,
 then you can blame your paddles and their plug.  If not, then
 there is something wrong with your K3.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 11/13/2010 6:53 PM, James Sarte wrote:

 What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the
 K3 a few
 moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of
 dots.  Right
 paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip,
 ring, and ground
 and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing
 right with the
 K3??




 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN

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Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Neil,

For K2 Dial Calibration issues, go to my website www.w3fpr.com and look 
at the K2 Dial Calibration article there.
It should solve your problem - do the whole process including the filter 
parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:21 PM, Neil Shubert wrote:
 Hi all,
 Its been a long time since I tinkered with my K2 and I am getting reports
 that I am a few KC's off on 20M

 sure enough they sound that way too, so when I tune them in better, I am
 about  7-8 Kc off frequency

 what should I start looking at?


 -Neil
 Ac2o
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Gene Langendorff
I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few months
ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of the
surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and the
board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and you
will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each end
while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should work. 

Gene K6TTM

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 5:58 PM
To: James Sarte
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

  James,

Based on your other posts to the reflector where you checked continuity 
inside the K3, I would suggest a new download of the firmware, save your 
configuration, then do an EE INIT.  Install the firmware via K3 Utility, 
restore your configuration and see if anything changes. If that fails to 
correct it, an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com is in order.

Why do these things always happen on the weekend??

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:09 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 Hi Don,
 I just did that.  I can short tip to ground and get dits, but shorting 
 ring to ground produces nothing.
 Looks like there's something wrong with the K3.  What should I look 
 for at this point?
 Tnx,
 James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com 
 mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  James,

 Remove the key from the equation.  Insert a stereo plug with the
 ring soldered to the sleeve.  Does the K3 make dashes?  If so,
 then you can blame your paddles and their plug.  If not, then
 there is something wrong with your K3.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 11/13/2010 6:53 PM, James Sarte wrote:

 What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the
 K3 a few
 moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of
 dots.  Right
 paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip,
 ring, and ground
 and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing
 right with the
 K3??




 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 died. Where to start?

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Oscar,

If your coax switch was connected properly, no harm should have been 
done to the KX1.

OK, now that the MCU chip has been verified as fully seated, you are in 
for some in-depth troubleshooting.
The first thing that should be checked is the DDS frequency - but if you 
do not have a frequency counter, that is difficult.
I assume you do have another HF receiver (the K3 if nothing else) - if 
so, operate the KX1 into a dummy load and couple the other receiver near 
the dummy load with a short antenna - you should hear the KX1 transmit 
quite close to the frequency on the KX1 dial.

If the KX1 transmit frequency is close to the frequency the KX1 is tuned 
to, that part is good, and we can rule out the KX1 MCU and DDS for transmit.

Next, try a quick and dirty check of the KX1 receiver - connect the 
center conductor of your antenna (using a jumper wire) to U6 pin 1 - do 
you hear signals as you tune?  If not, you are in for some greater in 
depth signal tracing (tell me what equipment you have available) - but 
if you do, then the problem is in the Low Pass Filter of your KX1.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:27 PM, Oscar, WB5GCX wrote:
 Don,
Removed and re-seated the MCU.  No change in operation.  Also closely
 inspected for no/bad solder -- all looks good.

Kept thinking about if I could have done anything to cause this.  I
 remembered I had both the KX1 and my K3 connected via 18 jumpers to a coax
 A/B switch to share my main HF antenna.  Was doing some receiver comparisons
 between the two, and have used this configuration to easily use the KX1
 indoors with the main antenna.  Always before I have always disconnected the
 coax from the KX1 before transmitting with the K3 (as well as moving the A/B
 switch to the K3 position).

The last time I had the KX1 hooked up this way, I may not have removed the
 coax from the KX1 before using my K3 on 40m cw, and 80m SSB.  I'm not sure I
 tried/used the KX1 after doing this.

Could strong RF from the K3 maybe have fried the KX1 MCU (or other
 component)?  Perhaps the A/B switch isolation is not so good -- or stray RF,
 etc.?

 Oscar, WB5GCX
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Bob,

The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but 
there are others that are also good.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC

 
 Get Free Email with Video Mail  Video Chat!
 http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210
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[Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Gentleman,

I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.  The 
trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 'Goot' - made 
in Japan.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

  Bob,

The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but 
there are others that are also good.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC



  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting...

Not on your life.  The lack of ringing on the newer version seems to
go along with a general decline in effectiveness.  If anything I'd
prefer to see higher Q.

Just for grins I reloaded 4.16 to make the same measurements using the
XG-2 as I made on 4.21.  Here is the comparison:

BW 4.21   4.16
  -
0 dB1  2   Hz
   -1 dB8  9   Hz
   -6 dB   31 31   Hz
  -10 dB   52 49   Hz
  -20 dB  165162   Hz
  -30 dB  345351   Hz
Gain  9.09.1   dB

Unlike W4ZV, I found only a 3 Hz offset in 4.16 (the peak response
was 3 Hz above zero beat - or the indicated spot/shift frequency).
Even though the test results were generally the same within the
measurement tolerances, I still feel the 4.16 version was more effective 
in on air listening.

These measurements were generated with an XG-2 set for 1 uV with the
K3 attenuator engaged for an effective signal level of -118 dBm.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 11/13/2010 8:07 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q setting... 
 At least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow.  Even if one perceives 
 the APF as less ringy and comments on it being a good thing, that means 
 that they are happy to know that the Q got widened out a little, and things 
 seem to sound better.

 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

 Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals don't pop
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of course, and
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to be a
 matter of personal preference.

 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time to play
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other opinions. So
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately peaky.

 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF. They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the filter peak
 is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees with Lyle's
 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important when
 trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the gain (APF vs not) which I didn't do before...+9.1 dB
 which is
 very close to Lyle's design goal of +9 dB.

 Nice job Elecraft!

 73, Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Wes Stewart
Probably why it sounds the same to me.

Wes

--- On Sat, 11/13/10, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
The APF algorithm is unchanged. Lyle is going to verify. 

Wayne





  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Hi Gene,

After following Don's advice to do an EE Init and reload, I still had the
same problem.  I then removed the bottom plate and checked RFC3 and RFC4.
Continuity check shows that RFC3 is ok, but RFC4 has no continuity.

How did Gary suggest you fix RFC4?  Did you resolder the choke?  If so, how
did you do it - from the bottom of the board where the choke is mounted, or
did you have to solder from the other side?

If it's from the other side, wow.. I'm not looking forward to tearing the K3
apart.  That's a lot of work.

Pse advise.

Mni tnx es vy 73 de James
K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should work.

 Gene K6TTM

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 5:58 PM
 To: James Sarte
 Cc: Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

   James,

 Based on your other posts to the reflector where you checked continuity
 inside the K3, I would suggest a new download of the firmware, save your
 configuration, then do an EE INIT.  Install the firmware via K3 Utility,
 restore your configuration and see if anything changes. If that fails to
 correct it, an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com is in order.

 Why do these things always happen on the weekend??

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:09 PM, James Sarte wrote:
  Hi Don,
  I just did that.  I can short tip to ground and get dits, but shorting
  ring to ground produces nothing.
  Looks like there's something wrong with the K3.  What should I look
  for at this point?
  Tnx,
  James K2QI
 
  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
  mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
   James,
 
  Remove the key from the equation.  Insert a stereo plug with the
  ring soldered to the sleeve.  Does the K3 make dashes?  If so,
  then you can blame your paddles and their plug.  If not, then
  there is something wrong with your K3.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
 
  On 11/13/2010 6:53 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 
  What am I doing wrong? I hooked up an old iambic paddle to the
  K3 a few
  moments ago.  Left paddle works fine; gives me a string of
  dots.  Right
  paddle doesn't do anything.  I checked continuity on tip,
  ring, and ground
  and everything tests fine.  Is there something I'm not doing
  right with the
  K3??
 
 
 
 
  --
  73 de James K2QI
  President UNARC/4U1UN
 
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-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-13 Thread Samuel Strongin
  Hi I was looking for Spectrogram,  my old computer crashed and I wanted to 
download it, Looks like it is no longer available!!


Sam kf4yox

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:01 PM
To: Neil Shubert
Cc: elecraft group
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

  Neil,

For K2 Dial Calibration issues, go to my website www.w3fpr.com and look
at the K2 Dial Calibration article there.
It should solve your problem - do the whole process including the filter
parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 8:21 PM, Neil Shubert wrote:
 Hi all,
 Its been a long time since I tinkered with my K2 and I am getting reports
 that I am a few KC's off on 20M

 sure enough they sound that way too, so when I tune them in better, I am
 about  7-8 Kc off frequency

 what should I start looking at?


 -Neil
 Ac2o
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit 
Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In 
my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried 
inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of 
disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that 
break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics wrenches).
When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven 
reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my 
experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have 
these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement 
parts should be a major factor.

A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain 
similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative 
to me.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
 Hello Gentleman,

 I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.  The
 trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 'Goot' - 
 made
 in Japan.
   cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC



 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
 副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

Bob,

 The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
 there are others that are also good.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 died. Where to start?

2010-11-13 Thread Oscar, WB5GCX

Don,

You said you should hear the KX1 transmit quite close to the frequency on
the KX1 dial

But the display is not working on the KX1, so I don't know what band or
frequency it's on...

The only signs of life are:  1) some white noise through the earbuds when I
turn on the KX1, and 2) the white LED will come on when I switch it on.

I have no test equipment other than a decent VOM, so if it's not something
pretty obvious I might have to send to Elecraft...

thanks,

Oscar, WB5GCX
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-died-Where-to-start-tp5734439p5736741.html
Sent from the [KX1] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

2010-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Sam,

Go to www.n0ss.net and download it from there.  If you are not 
successful there, email me direct and I will send you either Specrtogram 
5.17 or Spectrogram 16 which had both been released as Freeware before 
the author pulled the plug on all his software.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2010 9:31 PM, Samuel Strongin wrote:
Hi I was looking for Spectrogram,  my old computer crashed and I wanted to
 download it, Looks like it is no longer available!!


 Sam kf4yox

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:01 PM
 To: Neil Shubert
 Cc: elecraft group
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] off on 20 meters

Neil,

 For K2 Dial Calibration issues, go to my website www.w3fpr.com and look
 at the K2 Dial Calibration article there.
 It should solve your problem - do the whole process including the filter
 parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:21 PM, Neil Shubert wrote:
 Hi all,
 Its been a long time since I tinkered with my K2 and I am getting reports
 that I am a few KC's off on 20M

 sure enough they sound that way too, so when I tune them in better, I am
 about  7-8 Kc off frequency

 what should I start looking at?


 -Neil
 Ac2o
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
I use an Aoyue 937+ which I bought for around 50 dollars. Has lots of tip
choices. I believe the Hakko tips will fit also.  This soldering station's
temperature is digitally controlled and the tip is ESD protected.

73,
James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit
 Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
 I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In
 my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried
 inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of
 disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that
 break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics
 wrenches).
 When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven
 reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my
 experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have
 these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement
 parts should be a major factor.

 A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain
 similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative
 to me.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Gentleman,
 
  I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.
  The
  trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 'Goot'
 - made
  in Japan.
cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
 
 
 
  - 郵件原件 
  寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
  收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
  副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
  主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station
 
 Bob,
 
  The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
  there are others that are also good.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
  Gang
 
  last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered
 one
  I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
  could
  someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
  I believe it had an isolated tip etc
 
  Bob K3DJC
 
 
 
  __
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-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread w2bvh
  I use a Metcal at work  think its the best I've ever seen.
Its just too expensive for mere mortals (they cost more used than many 
stations do brand new. :-)

--Lenny W2BVH

On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
 Hello Gentleman,

 I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.  The
 trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 'Goot' 
 - made
 in Japan.
 Â cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC



 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
 副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

 Â  Bob,

 The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
 there are others that are also good.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC



 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Darnit.  I took half the K3 apart. Nevermind, guess I cant see the solder
pins from the top as they're actually covered by the jack housings.

OK... on to step two.

James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:31 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Gene,

 After following Don's advice to do an EE Init and reload, I still had the
 same problem.  I then removed the bottom plate and checked RFC3 and RFC4.
 Continuity check shows that RFC3 is ok, but RFC4 has no continuity.

 How did Gary suggest you fix RFC4?  Did you resolder the choke?  If so, how
 did you do it - from the bottom of the board where the choke is mounted, or
 did you have to solder from the other side?

 If it's from the other side, wow.. I'm not looking forward to tearing the
 K3 apart.  That's a lot of work.

 Pse advise.

 Mni tnx es vy 73 de James
 K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should work.

 Gene K6TTM




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Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Paul Christensen
The Aoyue, CSI, and Hakko should use interchangeable tips and heaters.  The 
Aoyue 937/937+ appears identical to the Circuit Specialist (CSI) and 
essentially the same has the Hakko 936/937.  Analog Aoyue/CSI sells for 
about USD $40.   Digital about $5 more.  I think if I was going to pay 
Hakko's price, I would lean toward the Weller WES51 at USD $95.

Paul, W9AC


- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station


I use an Aoyue 937+ which I bought for around 50 dollars. Has lots of tip
 choices. I believe the Hakko tips will fit also.  This soldering station's
 temperature is digitally controlled and the tip is ESD protected.

 73,
 James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit
 Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
 I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In
 my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried
 inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of
 disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that
 break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics
 wrenches).
 When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven
 reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my
 experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have
 these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement
 parts should be a major factor.

 A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain
 similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative
 to me.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Gentleman,
 
  I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.
  The
  trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 
  'Goot'
 - made
  in Japan.
cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
 
 
 
  - 郵件原件 
  寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
  收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
  副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
  主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station
 
 Bob,
 
  The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
  there are others that are also good.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
  Gang
 
  last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered
 one
  I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
  could
  someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
  I believe it had an isolated tip etc
 
  Bob K3DJC
 
 
 
  __
  Elecraft mailing list
  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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[Elecraft] Re: Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Johnny Siu
Yes, James.  I have been using Aoyue 937 as well for nearly 4 years.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
收件人﹕ d...@w3fpr.com
副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:54:31 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

I use an Aoyue 937+ which I bought for around 50 dollars. Has lots of tip
choices. I believe the Hakko tips will fit also.  This soldering station's
temperature is digitally controlled and the tip is ESD protected.

73,
James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit
 Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
 I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In
 my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried
 inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of
 disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that
 break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics
 wrenches).
 When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven
 reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my
 experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have
 these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement
 parts should be a major factor.

 A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain
 similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative
 to me.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Gentleman,
 
  I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.
  The
  trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 'Goot'
 - made
  in Japan.
   cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htm 



  
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[Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Johnny Siu
Oh yes, my Aoyue only costs me US$20 in Hong Kong.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 11:10:56 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

The Aoyue, CSI, and Hakko should use interchangeable tips and heaters.  The 
Aoyue 937/937+ appears identical to the Circuit Specialist (CSI) and 
essentially the same has the Hakko 936/937.  Analog Aoyue/CSI sells for 
about USD $40.  Digital about $5 more.  I think if I was going to pay 
Hakko's price, I would lean toward the Weller WES51 at USD $95.

Paul, W9AC


- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station


I use an Aoyue 937+ which I bought for around 50 dollars. Has lots of tip
 choices. I believe the Hakko tips will fit also.  This soldering station's
 temperature is digitally controlled and the tip is ESD protected.

 73,
 James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit
 Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
 I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In
 my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried
 inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of
 disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that
 break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics
 wrenches).
 When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven
 reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my
 experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have
 these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement
 parts should be a major factor.

 A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain
 similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative
 to me.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Gentleman,
 
  I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.
  The
  trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 
  'Goot'
 - made
  in Japan.
   cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
 
 
 
  - 郵件原件 
  寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
  收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
  副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
  主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station
 
     Bob,
 
  The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
  there are others that are also good.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
  Gang
 
  last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered
 one
  I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
  could
  someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
  I believe it had an isolated tip etc
 
  Bob K3DJC
 
 
 
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 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Hardy Landskov
I use a couple of  Therm-o-Trac irons made by Hexacon. They are very good 
for surface mount work.
Metcals are good  expensive as you pointed out but they produce short range 
RFI.
Hardy N7RT

- Original Message - 
From: w2bvh w2...@comcast.net
To: Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station


  I use a Metcal at work  think its the best I've ever seen.
 Its just too expensive for mere mortals (they cost more used than many
 stations do brand new. :-)

 --Lenny W2BVH

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
 Hello Gentleman,

 I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price. 
 The
 trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 
 'Goot'Â - made
 in Japan.
 Â cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC



 - 郵件原件 
 寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
 副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
 主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

 Â  Bob,

 The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
 there are others that are also good.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
 Gang

 last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered 
 one
 I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
 could
 someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
 I believe it had an isolated tip etc

 Bob K3DJC



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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station

2010-11-13 Thread Dale Putnam

As we consider the lowly soldering station, may I ask the consesus of the hot 
air/soldering station combo... i.e. which is the preferred, and has the best 
longevity?
 I've had two of the KADA 852 units and three hot air guns break, within hours 
of initial use. Anyone for any better results? 
I need hot air, temp and volume controllable, and a temp controlled solder iron 
similar to the weller. AND.. it would be real nice if it would shut itself off 
after a short period of nonuse. Say... 10 minutes. And the hot air gun/wand, 
could shut off when returned to its holder. Not a tuff circuit to build.
  Any suggestions? And no, I am not looking for the $1000 plus machines either. 
  

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
Gene et all,

I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
warped the casing of the choke on one side.  No good.  No continuity at all
from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.

Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
repair.

73 de James K2QI

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:



  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
 k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
 the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
 you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each
 end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should work.

 Gene K6TTM






-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Steve Ellington
Just bypass it with a piece of wire. It probably won't matter.
It might take months to get your K3 back!

N4LQ
Steve

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: Gene Langendorff k6...@sbcglobal.net
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?


 Gene et all,

 I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
 warped the casing of the choke on one side.  No good.  No continuity at 
 all
 from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.

 Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
 repair.

 73 de James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:



  On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene Langendorff 
 k6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few 
 months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of 
 the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
 the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
 you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each
 end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should 
 work.

 Gene K6TTM






 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

2010-11-13 Thread Wayne Burdick
Joe,

If Lyle is using the same algorithm as before, and your results are as  
indicated below (virtually a tie), I don't understand how you could be  
hearing a lack of ringing in the new revision. I simply cannot hear  
any difference myself, and I'm extremely picky. We have nearly 100  
people testing, and only two or three have perceived a difference, so  
given the statistical evidence, I'd suggest that background noise  
conditions are the variable here, not the firmware. Lyle has also  
completely reviewed the DSP implementation -- no change.

But since the customers are always right, I'm still in a quandry  :)

tnx
Wayne

On Nov 13, 2010, at 6:27 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q
 setting...

 Not on your life.  The lack of ringing on the newer version seems to
 go along with a general decline in effectiveness.  If anything I'd
 prefer to see higher Q.

 Just for grins I reloaded 4.16 to make the same measurements using the
 XG-2 as I made on 4.21.  Here is the comparison:

BW 4.21   4.16
  -
0 dB   1  2   Hz
   -1 dB   8  9   Hz
   -6 dB  31 31   Hz
  -10 dB  52 49   Hz
  -20 dB 165162   Hz
  -30 dB 345351   Hz
Gain 9.09.1   dB

 Unlike W4ZV, I found only a 3 Hz offset in 4.16 (the peak response
 was 3 Hz above zero beat - or the indicated spot/shift frequency).
 Even though the test results were generally the same within the
 measurement tolerances, I still feel the 4.16 version was more  
 effective
 in on air listening.

 These measurements were generated with an XG-2 set for 1 uV with the
 K3 attenuator engaged for an effective signal level of -118 dBm.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV

 On 11/13/2010 8:07 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 I'll count this as another vote in favor of adding the Variable Q  
 setting... At least a choice of 3 perhaps Wide, Med and Narrow.   
 Even if one perceives the APF as less ringy and comments on it  
 being a good thing, that means that they are happy to know that the  
 Q got widened out a little, and things seem to sound better.

 From: w5...@cybermesa.net
 To: li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 21:19:46 +
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF

 Joe wrote:

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 Joe, I agree with your subjective observation. No, the signals  
 don't pop
 as much -- but there is less ringing. This is a trade-off, of  
 course, and
 the precise balance of peak gain versus ringing is always going to  
 be a
 matter of personal preference.

 I like this less-ringy version better, I think. Haven't had time  
 to play
 with it a lot yet, but I will. I'm sure we will see many other  
 opinions. So
 far, I think the current version is very smooth and adequately  
 peaky.

 (Opinion subject to revision upon more extensive usage.)

 Bill W5WVO


 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 20:35
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF


 I made a similar set of measurements ... using the XG-2 and
 the AFV/dBV capability ...

 I measure the peak at 1 Hz wide (e.g. -.1dB +/- 1 Hz)
 the 1 dB points are 8 Hz wide
 the 6 dB points are 31 Hz wide
 the 20 dB points are 165 Hz wide
 the 30 dB points are 345 Hz wide
 gain is right at 9 dB.

 The measurements were made on 40 Meters with the XG-2 set to
 1 uV and the K3 attenuator activated yielding a -108 dBm test
 signal.

 I did not make similar measurements with the original alpha
 test version but this version seems subjectively less tight
 than the original ... there is certainly less ringing with
 this one but signals did not seem to pop like they did on
 the earlier version when I tried it last night on 160/80/40.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/13/2010 1:24 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 For my own curiosity I did some measurements of the latest APF.  
 They agree
 with
 measurements of the first release with the exception that the  
 filter peak
 is
 now
 zero beat instead of +10 Hz:

 Zero beat = 7040.021
 Flat passband = 021-020 (both 0.0 to -0.1 dB)
 -1 dB passband = 026-018 (-1.2 dB and -0.8 dB)
 -6 dB passband = 037-009 (-5.8 and -6.0 dB)

 Flat = 2 Hz BW (at zero beat)
 -1 dB = 8 Hz BW
 -6 dB = 28 Hz BW

 I didn't measure the -6 dB BW carefully on the first pass since I  
 was more
 interested in the -1 dB BW, but this looks similar and agrees  
 with Lyle's
 30
 Hz
 design goal. As mentioned previously, the -1 dB BW is important  
 when
 trying
 to
 detect signals below the noise floor since the human ear can  
 detect this
 difference in marginal conditions.

 I also checked the 

[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2010-11-13 Thread Kevin
Good Evening,
It is chilly, foggy, and wet here.  The fire feels good but the rain  
sounds nice and the gloomy weather induces a contemplative setting for my  
computer work.  I have been playing with Virtual Box today creating a  
series of virtual machines.  It is fun being able to instantiate a new OS  
in just a few seconds.  Or I can load applications for a certain work  
environment and have another set of tools for another setting each in  
their own VM.  Very simple and quick with Virtual Box.  Ubuntu or Windows  
or even both simultaneously with shared resources.  I have not listened to  
the radio recently but reports I have been reading are for great  
propagation.  Let's test them tomorrow.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST)  7045 kHz

 Stay well,
Kevin.  KD5ONS

-


-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary email client: http://www.opera.com/mail/


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3255 - Release Date: 11/13/10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread Vic K2VCO
If you could get to it to reheat the terminals, you can replace it.

And, as the previous poster indicated, it's just an RF filter for the paddle. 
Chances are 
you can short it out and you won't have a problem. You can get back on the air 
until 
Elecraft sends you a replacement part.

You don't need to send your radio to the factory to fix this!

On 11/13/2010 7:56 PM, James Sarte wrote:
 Gene et all,

 I reheated the contacts on RFC4 to the point that I think I even slightly
 warped the casing of the choke on one side.  No good.  No continuity at all
 from any of the trace points or direct contact with the chokes leads.

 Looks like RFC4 is dead and K3 #2730 will have to go back to Aptos for
 repair.

 73 de James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 10:02 PM, James Sartek2qi@gmail.com  wrote:



   On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Gene 
 Langendorffk6...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

 I had the same symptom on my year old newly completed K3 kit a few months
 ago (S/N 3172).  With Gary's guidance found the trouble to be one of the
 surface mount chokes (RFC3 or RFC4) between the paddles jack (J12) and
 the
 board needed resoldering.  Check for continuity with your ohmmeter and
 you
 will probably find one of them not connected.  Carefully resolder each
 end
 while applying downward pressure, one end at a time, and it should work.

 Gene K6TTM







-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] soldering station - desoldering gun

2010-11-13 Thread Johnny Siu
On the other hand, my desoldering gun is from Goot.  I don't feel Chinese made 
desoldering gun is good.

I think Chinese made soldering stations are ok and they are widely used in 
radio 
repair shops in Hong Kong.  Regrettably, I still can't find a Chinese made 
desoldering gun up to my satisfaction.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk
收件人﹕ Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 11:13:44 AM
主題: soldering station

Oh yes, my Aoyue only costs me US$20 in Hong Kong.
 cheers, 


Johnny VR2XMC 



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net
收件人﹕ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 11:10:56 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station

The Aoyue, CSI, and Hakko should use interchangeable tips and heaters.  The 
Aoyue 937/937+ appears identical to the Circuit Specialist (CSI) and 
essentially the same has the Hakko 936/937.  Analog Aoyue/CSI sells for 
about USD $40.  Digital about $5 more.  I think if I was going to pay 
Hakko's price, I would lean toward the Weller WES51 at USD $95.

Paul, W9AC


- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: soldering station


I use an Aoyue 937+ which I bought for around 50 dollars. Has lots of tip
 choices. I believe the Hakko tips will fit also.  This soldering station's
 temperature is digitally controlled and the tip is ESD protected.

 73,
 James K2QI

 On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Perhaps this is the soldering station being sold by Circuit
 Specialists that looks like a Hakko 936 knockoff.
 I buy quality tools, and do not fool with less expensive imitations.  In
 my experience, that has been a good decision.  The times I have tried
 inexpensive substitutes, there has always been some sort of
 disappointment - like finding parts at a later date, or cheap tools that
 break and cause injury (the best example is inexpensive mechanics
 wrenches).
 When I am in the market for tools, I will choose quality and proven
 reliability over price - low quality tools can be dangerous in my
 experience.  While cost is still a consideration, if one is to have
 these tools for years, quality  and a reliable source of replacement
 parts should be a major factor.

 A Chinese knockoff that you must purchase tips from Japan to obtain
 similar performance does not sound like a good and long life alternative
 to me.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/13/2010 9:24 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Gentleman,
 
  I am using a 'Chinese version' of Hakko 936 which is 1/4 of the price.
  The
  trick is to replace the original soldering tip with the same from 
  'Goot'
 - made
  in Japan.
   cheers,
 
 
  Johnny VR2XMC
 
 
 
  - 郵件原件 
  寄件人﹕ Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
  收件人﹕ riese-k3...@juno.com
  副本(CC) Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期﹕ 2010/11/14 (日) 10:18:21 AM
  主題: Re: [Elecraft] soldering station
 
     Bob,
 
  The Hakko 936 gets very high marks with most of those who have one, but
  there are others that are also good.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 11/13/2010 8:48 PM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
  Gang
 
  last week there was a thread on soldering stations,, before I ordered
 one
  I lost a week of e mail... I dont want to start the thread again but
  could
  someone off list give me a head up on the recommended station
  I believe it had an isolated tip etc
 
  Bob K3DJC
 
 
 
  __
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  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Right paddle key not working?

2010-11-13 Thread James Sarte
I suppose you're right Vic.  I've just never been too confident in my
soldering skills when it comes to small surface-mount parts like this choke.
 Like I said earlier, my iron slipped and I even managed to slightly warp
the plastic casing on the choke.  Ugh.  When it comes to larger, thru-hole
stuff then it isn't a problem.

If I bypass the choke, what's the worst that could happen?

Anyway, I'm still thinking about sending it back... Aptos agreed to swap out
the filter and mic encoders for the newer, less-viscous feeling versions
after my original encoders went kaput and they sent me an FP board with
these stiff ones.  So either way, I'd be out of a K3 for a few days.  I
could kill two birds with one stone and also have them do a complete check
to make sure everything else is working before sending it back.

I wouldn't be completely dead in the water anyway.  I have an Icom 756 Pro
III that I could use in the meantime.

Tnx,
James K2QI

On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Vic K2VCO v...@rakefet.com wrote:

 If you could get to it to reheat the terminals, you can replace it.

 And, as the previous poster indicated, it's just an RF filter for the
 paddle. Chances are you can short it out and you won't have a problem. You
 can get back on the air until Elecraft sends you a replacement part.

 You don't need to send your radio to the factory to fix this!



 --
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/




-- 
73 de James K2QI
President UNARC/4U1UN
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