Re: [Elecraft] [K3]_[KRC2]_Is_there_a_KRC3_in_the_w orks?

2011-10-17 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Its a -very- active current project. :-) We have finished SVGA hardware on 
completed pc boards. The firmware is being finished and tested in the lab as I 
type this. 

The SVGA adapter for the P3 plugs into the  existing rear IO board inside the 
P3. It can be added to any existing P3 very easily.

We are currently displaying P3 data on the external monitor at up to 1920 x 
1080p. It looks very cool. Stay tuned!

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Oct 14, 2011, at 10:44 PM, Bob k...@att.net wrote:

 Leave it at or??   Please expand on the or.
 
 Is the P3 a finished project or we ever see the ability to attach a larger 
 screen as was
 mentioned here on the reflector.   That ability was a consideration in the 
 original purchase.
 
 73,
 Bob
 K2TK
 
 On 10/14/2011 3:01 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 We're trying to line up a resource to update it. Everyone seems to be
 working on the K3, or the KX3, or the KAT500, or... well, let's just
 leave it at or.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
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[Elecraft] Trade request

2011-10-17 Thread Robert Kalkwarf
Hi Guys,  I know no one wishes to trade their last K2 but I am hoping that 
someone has an extra that would consider it.  I have a very nice FT-100D with 
500Hz and 250Hz CW filters, TCXO and DSP w/ unused ATAS-120A antenna.  I have 
some additional items to add depending on the K2 configuration and serial 
number.  Any interest?

73 Bob w7wo Lacey, Wa

b...@kalkwarf.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ?'s

2011-10-17 Thread George Winship, NC5G
KD6GW wrote:
 Today, close to civilization, practically everything radiates something. 
 You may be 
hearing Ethernet trash from your or your neighbor's.  Local oscillators 
in wi-fi routers, monitors, you name it, and a lot of it seems to 
concentrate in the 10 - 20 MHz range.  Short the BNC connecter securely 
with as little wire as you can and see if you still hear the signals.  

The birdies are coming from the KX1. I live seven miles from town in the
middle of
60 acres of pines and hardwoods. The nearest house is at least a 1/4 mile
away. I 
turned off my router and satellite internet but that did not help. 

Also, how can this post be moved to the proper sub forum? 

73, George NC5G

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Re: [Elecraft] 160m loop experiment a big failure

2011-10-17 Thread Rich - K1HTV
Don,
   How did you plan to use the 160M loop? If you want to work the locals (within
500 miles) a low (less than 100 ft high) 160M loop is a great sky warmer. If you
are more interested in working DX on the Topband then give an Inverted-L a try.

I've had very good luck with two that I've built. The one that favors Europe,
Africa, the Caribbean and So. America has only 30 feet of the 135 feet of wire
vertical. The rest of it is horizontal, ending up around 50 feet high in a tree.
This Inverted-L is fed with 50 Ohm coax with a 500pf capacitor in series at the
base of the antenna.  Presently there are 16 short (1/8 wavelength, 65 ft)
radials. The second Inverted-L has 60 ft. of vertical with the rest horizontal,
sloping down to 30 feet. This antenna favors the west and northwest. It has 8
quarter wave, 130 feet, radials.

Running the K3 barefoot with these Inverted-L antennas, since I've moved to my
new VA QTH,  I've increased my Topband DXCC total from 201 to 222 countries
confirmed running 100 Watts or less. Some of the best DX to the east includes
4X, S0, 5N, D4 and UA6. To the south CE, CX, VP8/F and to the west FO,
FO/A,T30,T2,KH6,ZL   a number of KL7's to the NW. So, as you can see the
Inverted-L, even without a lot of the wire being vertical, can perform well as a
DX antenna. It certainly will outperform a 160M loop.

So, if you are interested in making longer haul QSOs on 160M, I would ditch the
loop and go with an Inverted-L. If you have a tower, I would shunt feed it, but
that's another story.

73,
Rich - K1HTV

= = =
   

-Original Message-
From: gold...@charter.net [mailto:gold...@charter.net] 
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 12:15 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] 160m loop experiment a big failure

I set up a 160m loop in the yard to try one out from all the great reading I did
regarding the antenna.

For me I can get it to tune with no problems except the RF in the shack is
terrible.
.
.
.
.
So I thought I would share my current failure while I ponder my next 
move or give up on the loop.   Ok I wont give up, YET!

Cheers

~73
Don
KD8NNU



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 H Mode Mixer

2011-10-17 Thread I7SWX
Hi Jack, 

again thanks a lot for the circuit diagram and description of converter. 

Thanks for the link to the F6CTE software. I am not using PSK ... I am a
chatter...hi

I believe if something is old it does not mean is not good ... we can always
modify it...hi

73

Gian
I7SWX

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ?'s

2011-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
George,

I am not certain what you mean by proper sub forum - there is only one 
Elecraft reflector that I know of, even if it is presented both in pure 
email as well as Nabble posts.

It is true that the KX1 has several birdies, especially on 20 meters.  
Double check the 14 MHz Low Pass Filter located after the DDS for proper 
components (the DDS has a harmonic-rich output).  I suspect some are 
coming from the DDS harmonics and mixing with harmonics of the BFO.  
There is not a lot of room for complete isolation inside that small 
enclosure.  For the most part, I simply ignore those birdies, but YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2011 7:38 AM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
 KD6GW wrote:
 Today, close to civilization, practically everything radiates something.
 You may be
 hearing Ethernet trash from your or your neighbor's.  Local oscillators
 in wi-fi routers, monitors, you name it, and a lot of it seems to
 concentrate in the 10 - 20 MHz range.  Short the BNC connecter securely
 with as little wire as you can and see if you still hear the signals.
 The birdies are coming from the KX1. I live seven miles from town in the
 middle of
 60 acres of pines and hardwoods. The nearest house is at least a 1/4 mile
 away. I
 turned off my router and satellite internet but that did not help.

 Also, how can this post be moved to the proper sub forum?

 73, George NC5G

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-s-tp6896330p6900155.html
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[Elecraft] marc.info

2011-10-17 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

What's up with marc.info lately? It has had several outages and now has had
no postings added since before the weekend.

AB2TC - Knut

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[Elecraft] FOR SALE

2011-10-17 Thread Larry Boekeloo
 I have an EL-001S RigExpert cable for sale 
that will connect the RigExpert Standard, Plus and TI-5 to an Elecraft 
K3.  New, these cables sell for $48.00 plus shipping.  I will sell for 
$35.00 shipped to your USA QTH.  Contact KN8N via email - 
lboeke...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: [Elecraft] 160m loop experiment a big failure

2011-10-17 Thread Jon K Hellan
On 10/17/2011 03:02 PM, Rich - K1HTV wrote:
 Don,
 How did you plan to use the 160M loop? If you want to work the locals 
 (within
 500 miles) a low (less than 100 ft high) 160M loop is a great sky warmer. If 
 you
 are more interested in working DX on the Topband then give an Inverted-L a 
 try.

Up to a point, this is true. Given that a loop is possible, you can also 
make an inverted L, and it would work better for DX. A double L may also 
be a good choice. See 
http://www.surriel.com/radio/160-meter-double-l-antenna.

But sky warmers can do very well, too. I don't have trees taller than 4m 
(13'). My lot is abt 600 sq m (0.15 acres). This is actually considered 
large in Europe. There is almost, but not quite, room for a dipole for 
80m. To get on the lower bands, I started out with an inv vee, slightly 
shortened, 15m (45') at the apex and 4-5m (15') up at the ends. I built 
it for a local sweepstakes like contest, but worked 80m DXCC with it. 
(Easier from Europe than from the USA.) Last winter, I wanted to play 
with 160m, and ran low wire to the ends of the inv vee. Seen from above, 
the antenna looks rather like a 'Z'. Result after one season: 61 
countries, including Canada, USA and Tajikistan.

It helps that outside my local area of abt 200k inhabitants, population 
is pretty sparse for  3-400 km or so. There is also no AM broadcasting. 
This makes QRM arriving from high angles less of a problem than it would 
be in much of the USA.

I'm not arguing that you should build a skywarmer where a low angle 
antenna is feasible. But it would be a shame not to try *something*, if 
you can't put up an ideal antenna.

73
Jon LA4RT


 I've had very good luck with two that I've built. The one that favors Europe,
 Africa, the Caribbean and So. America has only 30 feet of the 135 feet of wire
 vertical. The rest of it is horizontal, ending up around 50 feet high in a 
 tree.
 This Inverted-L is fed with 50 Ohm coax with a 500pf capacitor in series at 
 the
 base of the antenna.  Presently there are 16 short (1/8 wavelength, 65 ft)
 radials. The second Inverted-L has 60 ft. of vertical with the rest 
 horizontal,
 sloping down to 30 feet. This antenna favors the west and northwest. It has 8
 quarter wave, 130 feet, radials.

 Running the K3 barefoot with these Inverted-L antennas, since I've moved to my
 new VA QTH,  I've increased my Topband DXCC total from 201 to 222 countries
 confirmed running 100 Watts or less. Some of the best DX to the east includes
 4X, S0, 5N, D4 and UA6. To the south CE, CX, VP8/F and to the west FO,
 FO/A,T30,T2,KH6,ZL  a number of KL7's to the NW. So, as you can see the
 Inverted-L, even without a lot of the wire being vertical, can perform well 
 as a
 DX antenna. It certainly will outperform a 160M loop.

 So, if you are interested in making longer haul QSOs on 160M, I would ditch 
 the
 loop and go with an Inverted-L. If you have a tower, I would shunt feed it, 
 but
 that's another story.

 73,
 Rich - K1HTV

 = = =


 -Original Message-
 From: gold...@charter.net [mailto:gold...@charter.net]
 Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 12:15 PM
 To: Elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] 160m loop experiment a big failure

 I set up a 160m loop in the yard to try one out from all the great reading I 
 did
 regarding the antenna.

 For me I can get it to tune with no problems except the RF in the shack is
 terrible.
 .
 .
 .
 .
 So I thought I would share my current failure while I ponder my next
 move or give up on the loop.   Ok I wont give up, YET!

 Cheers

 ~73
 Don
 KD8NNU



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Video Output (Was [K3]_[KRC2]_Is_there_a_KRC3_in_the_w orks?)

2011-10-17 Thread n5ge

Eric,

What other resolutions will the P3 support?

Thanks,

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member


On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 23:01:54 -0700, Eric Swartz  WA6HHQ - Elecraft
e...@elecraft.com wrote:

Its a -very- active current project. :-) We have finished SVGA hardware on 
completed pc boards. The firmware is being finished and tested in the lab as I 
type this. 

The SVGA adapter for the P3 plugs into the  existing rear IO board inside the 
P3. It can be added to any existing P3 very easily.

We are currently displaying P3 data on the external monitor at up to 1920 x 
1080p. It looks very cool. Stay tuned!

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Oct 14, 2011, at 10:44 PM, Bob k...@att.net wrote:

 Leave it at or??   Please expand on the or.
 
 Is the P3 a finished project or we ever see the ability to attach a larger 
 screen as was
 mentioned here on the reflector.   That ability was a consideration in the 
 original purchase.
 
 73,
 Bob
 K2TK
 
 On 10/14/2011 3:01 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 We're trying to line up a resource to update it. Everyone seems to be
 working on the K3, or the KX3, or the KAT500, or... well, let's just
 leave it at or.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ?'s

2011-10-17 Thread Fred Jensen
On 10/17/2011 4:38 AM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:

 The birdies are coming from the KX1. I live seven miles from town
 in the middle of 60 acres of pines and hardwoods. The nearest house
 is at least a 1/4 mile away. I turned off my router and satellite
 internet but that did not help.

OK ... I have one on my KX1 when I'm well away from civilization, not 
loud and it tunes at double rate.  I guess I'm just lucky?

 Also, how can this post be moved to the proper sub forum?

I don't think there are any sub-forums on the Elecraft list, except 
maybe the Nabble archive?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Balun Cores

2011-10-17 Thread Jim Brown
On 10/16/2011 4:29 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 two different materials used in
 toroids (etc.): Ferrite and powdered iron.

AND each generic type -- ferrites and powdered iron -- have many 
variations that are VERY different from each other.  The ferrite types 
are different as a result of their chemical MIX, and every MIX is 
designed for a different use -- that is, suppression over one range of 
frequencies and/or inductance in a different range of frequencies.

See the RFI tutorial on my website about these matters.

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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[Elecraft] Toroid Balun Cores

2011-10-17 Thread Edward R. Cole
Someone mentioned the baluns on older yagis were air-core.  I have an 
older Hygain TH3mk4 with original balun (big black box connected to 
the hairpin stub and driven element.  The antenna is probably 20-30 
years old, so I wonder if anyone can tell me if it is likely air-core 
or ferrite?  Any advantage in replacing it?

I found that I had to use a tuner after installing it at 50-feet even 
with element lengths adjusted to min SWR per manual.  Now I wonder if 
this may be due to an aged balun?

The used antenna only cost me $75 so not a big investment.  But it 
does seem to work DX OK.  I worked T32 on 10m on Saturday with only 
8w SSB from my K3/10.  But eventually I will be running 300w so this 
may matter more.

Note that the tuner is required on all bands 20-15-10m.  10m was the 
hardest and would not tune very well in any position of the driven 
element.  Tuning was done with antenna pointed straight up when at 
ground level with reflector essentially at the ground.  I expected 
some shift in resonance once the tower was raised (all antennas 
installed before raising with a crane).

I suppose this may also point at bad traps (but for $75 it works).


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] Trade request

2011-10-17 Thread Robert Kalkwarf
I hope I am following protocol.  The previous request for a K2 trade for my 
FT-100D and ATAS-120A should have had a K2 with SSB, ATU, and AF or DSP.  Sorry 
about not being more specific.

Bob w7wo

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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Balun Cores

2011-10-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've never seen an HF Yagi with an air core balun at the feed point. Such
baluns for HF were typically a foot or more square! (The only ones I ever
messed with were mounted in the shack to connect a single-ended rig output
to a balanced feed line.)

By the 1980s ferrite baluns were very commonly used almost everywhere, so
I'd put money on your having a ferrite balun on that yagi. 

If the balun was abused, physically, with too much RF heating or by moisture
getting into the housing, it may be damaged. The same is true for traps.

73,

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Someone mentioned the baluns on older yagis were air-core.  I have an 
older Hygain TH3mk4 with original balun (big black box connected to 
the hairpin stub and driven element.  The antenna is probably 20-30 
years old, so I wonder if anyone can tell me if it is likely air-core 
or ferrite?  Any advantage in replacing it?

I found that I had to use a tuner after installing it at 50-feet even 
with element lengths adjusted to min SWR per manual.  Now I wonder if 
this may be due to an aged balun?

The used antenna only cost me $75 so not a big investment.  But it 
does seem to work DX OK.  I worked T32 on 10m on Saturday with only 
8w SSB from my K3/10.  But eventually I will be running 300w so this 
may matter more.

Note that the tuner is required on all bands 20-15-10m.  10m was the 
hardest and would not tune very well in any position of the driven 
element.  Tuning was done with antenna pointed straight up when at 
ground level with reflector essentially at the ground.  I expected 
some shift in resonance once the tower was raised (all antennas 
installed before raising with a crane).

I suppose this may also point at bad traps (but for $75 it works).


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Balun Cores

2011-10-17 Thread John Ragle
It is a pity that someone back in prehistoric times started using the 
word balun for two entirely different devices. I use an air core 
balun (a so-called choke balun) which is about a foot long and about 
4 in diameter, wound as a single-layer solenoid on PVC pipe, on my HF 
beam. This is in place of the scramble-wound choke often used at an 
antenna feed point.

I also have various matching transformers on my 5 beam antennas, none 
of which is a toroidal transformer. It is possible to make an unbalanced 
line-to-balanced feed point transition without a toroidal transformer, 
of course, and when things are managed this way, there is never a 
question of a toroid freezing and cracking or alternatively roasting 
from too much RF and cracking.

As I see it, one of the truly superior advantages of toroids is as cores 
for interstage transformers (or for filters), as in many modern 
transceivers. The devices are beautiful because they are physically 
small and one can lay them down or against almost any substrate, since 
their ultrahigh permeability contains fringing fields completely (any 
that are left over from imperfections in the flux closure of a perfect 
toroid).

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 10/17/2011 3:14 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 I've never seen an HF Yagi with an air core balun at the feed point. Such
 baluns for HF were typically a foot or more square! (The only ones I ever
 messed with were mounted in the shack to connect a single-ended rig output
 to a balanced feed line.)

 By the 1980s ferrite baluns were very commonly used almost everywhere, so
 I'd put money on your having a ferrite balun on that yagi.

 If the balun was abused, physically, with too much RF heating or by moisture
 getting into the housing, it may be damaged. The same is true for traps.

 73,

 Ron AC7AC



 -Original Message-
 Someone mentioned the baluns on older yagis were air-core.  I have an
 older Hygain TH3mk4 with original balun (big black box connected to
 the hairpin stub and driven element.  The antenna is probably 20-30
 years old, so I wonder if anyone can tell me if it is likely air-core
 or ferrite?  Any advantage in replacing it?

 I found that I had to use a tuner after installing it at 50-feet even
 with element lengths adjusted to min SWR per manual.  Now I wonder if
 this may be due to an aged balun?

 The used antenna only cost me $75 so not a big investment.  But it
 does seem to work DX OK.  I worked T32 on 10m on Saturday with only
 8w SSB from my K3/10.  But eventually I will be running 300w so this
 may matter more.

 Note that the tuner is required on all bands 20-15-10m.  10m was the
 hardest and would not tune very well in any position of the driven
 element.  Tuning was done with antenna pointed straight up when at
 ground level with reflector essentially at the ground.  I expected
 some shift in resonance once the tower was raised (all antennas
 installed before raising with a crane).

 I suppose this may also point at bad traps (but for $75 it works).


 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
 ==

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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Balun Cores [End of thread]

2011-10-17 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Folks - Let's end this thread as it has more than passed our list 
posting number limit.

In the future, please self moderate and resist the urge to continue 
threads that already have 5-10 postings.

Also, please trim all copied text to a -very- short summary. Copying 
everyhting is unnecessary and wasteful of both bandwidth and storage. 
Also delete all of the automated list footers in your reply.

73, Eric
List Moderator

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On 10/17/2011 12:14 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 I've never seen an HF Yagi with an air core balun at the feed point.
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[Elecraft] K1 #2999 does not seem to get 5 watts out on 20

2011-10-17 Thread Don Baucom
I adjusted the K1 again ( transmit adj) the receiver sounds louder on 20. I
still cant seem to get 5 watts out. When Im around 14.010 its is 4 bars (
ant tuner says the swr is 1.1) and as I move up (14.040) it will sometimes
drop to 3 bars( tuner once again says 1.1) . On 40 I do get 5 bars. I am
running it through a MFJ SWR/Watt meter and the power looks like it is just
under 5 watts.. I am not using the plastic coil tuner. I use a small
screwdriver with tape. Not sure that could be a issue? I did retouch all the
solder joints that related to 20 meters on the filter board.


Last night I  received a 599 from a 500 mile QSO into Canada so maybe I
should not worry?

I have the 2 band module (40/20)

Is it typical for the power to have a drop off from 40 to 20?

Thanks
Don



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[Elecraft] [K3] Problems abound

2011-10-17 Thread Shane DeSeranno
Hello everyone,

I’m a newer K3 owner and I’m loving the heck out of the device, but recently I 
noticed a strange problem.  It started behaving as though my MIC wasn’t working 
correctly.  

[All tests from this point out will be into a DUMMY LOAD that is rated up to 
300W.]

I would notice that if I used 100W and tried to send, the power draw was never 
more than 4 amps, and the RF display wouldn’t go above 5 or 10W.  After some 
troubleshooting, I ‘recalibrated’ the TX gain, and this fixed it... until I 
leave and come back later.  Then I’m required to recalibrate the TX gain.  I 
know this isn’t the expected behavior, so I suspect something is amiss.

Another problem that has cropped up at the same time (and is likely related) is 
my ATU inability to tune correctly.  I should be able to “tune” the dummy load 
1:1 on all bands (except maybe 10m and 6m), but when I try to tune, I hear the 
relays click, but after a short wait the K3 beeps and displays “- -“.  I’m 
guessing this is because the TX gain calibration is wacky and thus the ATU 
ability to read the SWR might be out of whack.

All this said, I’m really stumped and was hoping for suggestions and ideas?  I 
have tried reloading settings from when my device was first brought online, but 
that didn’t have any effect.

Thanks,
Shane - KF7EFG
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 #2999 does not seem to get 5 watts out on 20

2011-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

Make certain the turns on the 20 meter low pass filter toroids are 
spread completely around the core.  If the turns are bunched up, the 
cutoff frequency of the 20 meter LPF can be down in the 20 meter band 
instead of above 14,350 MHz, and a substantial amount of power will be 
shunted to ground.

Judge the power output only into a dummy load - initially with the tuner 
removed (don't forget the jumper).
After you obtain adequate power output without the tuner, then you can 
add the tuner, balance it and calibrate its wattmeter.
You can believe the K1 power reading into a 50 ohm dummy load when the 
KXAT1 is removed - so do not put your external wattmeter between the K1 
and dummy load.  When you get ready for the KAT1 power calibration (and 
after you have balanced the KXAT1 wattmeter), then you will add the 
external wattmeter and adjust the FWD pot on the KAT1 to make the power 
readings agree.

What I am saying is that many external wattmeters can introduce 
reactance to the transceiver output, so eliminate them until they are 
needed - use a good 50 ohm pure resistive dummy load for the best 
results and connect it to the K1 with a short length of coax.

Be certain you set the jumper near the BNC jack to the proper Non-KAT1 
or KAT1 position when changing from no tuner to KXAT1 installed.

If you have gone through all those procedures and still have problems, 
back the configuration down to the K1 without the KAT1, and if you do 
not have sufficient output, turn the manual to the Transmit Signal 
Tracing section in the manual and follow that procedure.  Once you have 
identified the stage where the RF Voltage is substantially less than the 
expected value, you have found the output of the failing stage.  Tell us 
the relevant details and we should be able to assist with detailed 
measurements of that failing stage.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/17/2011 5:40 PM, Don Baucom wrote:
 I adjusted the K1 again ( transmit adj) the receiver sounds louder on 20. I
 still cant seem to get 5 watts out. When Im around 14.010 its is 4 bars (
 ant tuner says the swr is 1.1) and as I move up (14.040) it will sometimes
 drop to 3 bars( tuner once again says 1.1) . On 40 I do get 5 bars. I am
 running it through a MFJ SWR/Watt meter and the power looks like it is just
 under 5 watts.. I am not using the plastic coil tuner. I use a small
 screwdriver with tape. Not sure that could be a issue? I did retouch all the
 solder joints that related to 20 meters on the filter board.


 Last night I  received a 599 from a 500 mile QSO into Canada so maybe I
 should not worry?

 I have the 2 band module (40/20)

 Is it typical for the power to have a drop off from 40 to 20?

 Thanks
 Don



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Re: [Elecraft] marc.info

2011-10-17 Thread Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
Marc is having hardware trouble.  You might donate to them if you are a
regular user.
The archive at Nabble is working fine, as are the others listed on the
Elecraft lists page.

http://marc.info/?q=news

Leigh/WA5ZNU


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Problems abound

2011-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Shane,

I believe the - - display means that the KAT3 is not being properly 
recognized as being installed.  That fact alone may complicate the 
results of your other observations.

You may not be able to TUNE the dummy load to 1:1 SWR - the tuning 
mechanism may quit tuning if the SWR is below 1.3 or 1.2 (although it 
usually will tune to 1.0).  If you want TO ASSURE 1:1 results, you will 
have to bypass the KAT3 rather than TUNing intp the dummy load.

If your TX Gain calibration data is not being remembered, that is a 
different problem, and should be addressed to k3supp...@elecraft.com.  
It does seem that is your problem source.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2011 5:56 PM, Shane DeSeranno wrote:
 Hello everyone,

 I’m a newer K3 owner and I’m loving the heck out of the device, but recently 
 I noticed a strange problem.  It started behaving as though my MIC wasn’t 
 working correctly.

 [All tests from this point out will be into a DUMMY LOAD that is rated up to 
 300W.]

 I would notice that if I used 100W and tried to send, the power draw was 
 never more than 4 amps, and the RF display wouldn’t go above 5 or 10W.  After 
 some troubleshooting, I ‘recalibrated’ the TX gain, and this fixed it... 
 until I leave and come back later.  Then I’m required to recalibrate the TX 
 gain.  I know this isn’t the expected behavior, so I suspect something is 
 amiss.

 Another problem that has cropped up at the same time (and is likely related) 
 is my ATU inability to tune correctly.  I should be able to “tune” the dummy 
 load 1:1 on all bands (except maybe 10m and 6m), but when I try to tune, I 
 hear the relays click, but after a short wait the K3 beeps and displays “- 
 -“.  I’m guessing this is because the TX gain calibration is wacky and thus 
 the ATU ability to read the SWR might be out of whack.

 All this said, I’m really stumped and was hoping for suggestions and ideas?  
 I have tried reloading settings from when my device was first brought online, 
 but that didn’t have any effect.

 Thanks,
 Shane - KF7EFG
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Problems abound

2011-10-17 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
The  '- -' display usually happens when there is not enough power to 
tune and generate a proper SWR.

73, Eric

---
www.elecraft.com


On 10/17/2011 4:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Shane,

 I believe the - - display means that the KAT3 is not being properly
 recognized as being installed.  That fact alone may complicate the
 results of your other observations.

 You may not be able to TUNE the dummy load to 1:1 SWR - the tuning
 mechanism may quit tuning if the SWR is below 1.3 or 1.2 (although it
 usually will tune to 1.0).  If you want TO ASSURE 1:1 results, you will
 have to bypass the KAT3 rather than TUNing intp the dummy load.

 If your TX Gain calibration data is not being remembered, that is a
 different problem, and should be addressed to k3supp...@elecraft.com.
 It does seem that is your problem source.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 10/17/2011 5:56 PM, Shane DeSeranno wrote:
 Hello everyone,

 I’m a newer K3 owner and I’m loving the heck out of the device, but recently 
 I noticed a strange problem.  It started behaving as though my MIC wasn’t 
 working correctly.

 [All tests from this point out will be into a DUMMY LOAD that is rated up to 
 300W.]

 I would notice that if I used 100W and tried to send, the power draw was 
 never more than 4 amps, and the RF display wouldn’t go above 5 or 10W.  
 After some troubleshooting, I ‘recalibrated’ the TX gain, and this fixed 
 it... until I leave and come back later.  Then I’m required to recalibrate 
 the TX gain.  I know this isn’t the expected behavior, so I suspect 
 something is amiss.

 Another problem that has cropped up at the same time (and is likely related) 
 is my ATU inability to tune correctly.  I should be able to “tune” the dummy 
 load 1:1 on all bands (except maybe 10m and 6m), but when I try to tune, I 
 hear the relays click, but after a short wait the K3 beeps and displays “- 
 -“.  I’m guessing this is because the TX gain calibration is wacky and thus 
 the ATU ability to read the SWR might be out of whack.

 All this said, I’m really stumped and was hoping for suggestions and ideas?  
 I have tried reloading settings from when my device was first brought 
 online, but that didn’t have any effect.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ?'s

2011-10-17 Thread George Winship, NC5G
On October 17, 2011 at 8:17 AM Don Wilhelm wrote;

I am not certain what you mean by proper sub forum - there is only one 
Elecraft reflector that I know of, even if it is presented both in pure 
email as well as Nabble posts.

I choose to view the reflector posts from the Nabble archive. If viewing
from the topics 
page the posts are usually under the heading that corresponds to the
subject. These posts
are under the K1 heading instead of the KX1 heading. Certainly not a big
deal.

It is true that the KX1 has several birdies, especially on 20 meters.  
Double check the 14 MHz Low Pass Filter located after the DDS for proper 
components (the DDS has a harmonic-rich output).  I suspect some are 
coming from the DDS harmonics and mixing with harmonics of the BFO.  

I will double check the filter. These birdies vary in strength and pitch,
are narrow in bandwidth
and are numerous.

Thanks for yours and everyone's responses.

73, George, NC5G

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[Elecraft] T32C Elecraft Mojo

2011-10-17 Thread Bert Craig
Well, it's an almost-clean CW sweep as I have no antenna for 160. The K2/100
made it easy though on 10 through 80. I am especially proud that 13 year old
Samantha and 10 year old Charles both worked T32C on 10m CW. Tnx Elecraft!

Vy 7 de Bert
WA2SI


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[Elecraft] OT: really cool home-brew electronic project

2011-10-17 Thread Tony Estep
This is not ham-related, but it illustrates that home design and building of
incredible electronic gadgets is still  alive and well. It does feature DSP,
microcontroller programming, and audio-processing stuff that certainly can
be tied to ham interests. I believe that reflector participant Ian GM3SEK is
an audio engineer, and perhaps there are others on the list as well who are
devotees of this kind of stuff. In any event, for anybody who likes
electronics, the entertainment value of this is outstanding.

The guy who did the project is a colleague of one of my sons at Penn State,
who did this in his spare time as a contest entry.

Here is the 1.5 Minute video that demos the active pickguard gadget:**

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhSo-udHuqM



It seems mildly interesting, but you don't realize what you're looking at
until you see the “deep dive”:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hI7nvLrYxc4




This second video is just brilliant!


73,
Tony KT0NY

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[Elecraft] OT: Single Board Computers

2011-10-17 Thread Matthew Pitts
Good evening,

I vaguely recall someone in a thread making the suggestion of mounting 
something in a K3 to act as a PC or something similar; I've found the following 
items that would likely fit inside a K3/10:
http://www.friendlyarm.net/products/mini2440
http://www.friendlyarm.net/products/mini6410

They measure 10cm by 10cm and 11cm by 11cm respectively (approximately 4 inches 
by 4 inches for those not used to the Metric System); one source that I know of 
for these boards offers an adapter to connect a VGA monitor to the board 
instead of the smaller LCD displays.

Matthew Pitts
N8OHU
Sent from my Wireless Device

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Single Board Computers

2011-10-17 Thread Mark Bayern
It might fit, but how will you make sure it doesn't add a bunch of rf noise?

Mark AD5SS

On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 8:30 PM, Matthew Pitts
daywalker_blade_2...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Good evening,

 I vaguely recall someone in a thread making the suggestion of mounting 
 something in a K3 to act as a PC or something similar; I've found the 
 following items that would likely fit inside a K3/10:
 http://www.friendlyarm.net/products/mini2440
 http://www.friendlyarm.net/products/mini6410

 They measure 10cm by 10cm and 11cm by 11cm respectively (approximately 4 
 inches by 4 inches for those not used to the Metric System); one source that 
 I know of for these boards offers an adapter to connect a VGA monitor to the 
 board instead of the smaller LCD displays.

 Matthew Pitts
 N8OHU
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Problems abound

2011-10-17 Thread Augie Gus Hansen

 The  '- -' display usually happens when there is not enough power to
 tune and generate a proper SWR.

And this display could be an indication that the K3 is in test mode. 
Be sure that the TX indicator is not flashing.

Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Problems abound

2011-10-17 Thread Shane DeSeranno
Thank you everyone for your replies.  Gary from Elecraft was awesome to 
chime in... He had me check a number of things, but I think the core problem 
was the wattmeter needed to be calibrated.

Disconnect any RS232 connection and PC software control.

Redo the WMTR menu calibration.

When in WMTR LP or WMTR HP, turning the VFO A knob counterclockwise for 
smaller numbers in the LCD will result in more RF output on an external 
wattmeter. Turning the VFO A knob the opposite way will decrease the actual 
RF output.   The change when turning the knob menu is small, so you may need 
to turn the VFO A knob quite a bit to see much change in the actual RF 
output on the external wattmeter. This adjustment should be done with the K3 
set to the 20m band. This calibration is done while you are in the WMTR menu 
and you then press TUNE.

In short, my wattmeter marked stuff as 6W/60W for the 5W/50W test 
respectively.   After adjusting this setting, my ATU tunes 1:1 on all 9 
bands and is pushing 100% of the power as expected!

Thank you everyone (Gary included!)
=Shane - KF7EFG 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: really cool home-brew electronic project

2011-10-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fan-tas-tic! Tnx Tony. It very dramatically illustrates how CAD and fab
services have brought the ability to design and prototype new devices into
the hands of any capable engineer. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
This is not ham-related, but it illustrates that home design and building of
incredible electronic gadgets is still  alive and well. It does feature DSP,
microcontroller programming, and audio-processing stuff that certainly can
be tied to ham interests. I believe that reflector participant Ian GM3SEK is
an audio engineer, and perhaps there are others on the list as well who are
devotees of this kind of stuff. In any event, for anybody who likes
electronics, the entertainment value of this is outstanding.

The guy who did the project is a colleague of one of my sons at Penn State,
who did this in his spare time as a contest entry.

Here is the 1.5 Minute video that demos the active pickguard gadget:**

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhSo-udHuqM



It seems mildly interesting, but you don't realize what you're looking at
until you see the deep dive:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hI7nvLrYxc4




This second video is just brilliant!


73,
Tony KT0NY

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Re: [Elecraft] T32C Elecraft Mojo

2011-10-17 Thread Doug Turnbull
Bert,
Do you have two ops age 13 and 10?   That is like the sixties only ten
is very young even for this era; congrats!   The hobby needs young blood to
replace the grey wolves.  Your family is the one with the mojo.

 73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bert Craig
Sent: 18 October 2011 01:11
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] T32C  Elecraft Mojo

Well, it's an almost-clean CW sweep as I have no antenna for 160. The K2/100
made it easy though on 10 through 80. I am especially proud that 13 year old
Samantha and 10 year old Charles both worked T32C on 10m CW. Tnx Elecraft!

Vy 7 de Bert
WA2SI


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