Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread Jim Rhodes
In RTTY contests we can define the 2 receivers as 2 different radios (2
instances of K3 in ports using same com port) I have not heard of anyone
doing this in any other mode and certainly not in mixed mode. But it might
be possible for the WriteLog code to be updated to allow this. Doesn't
happen in too many contests though. It would be waaay cool.

Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
On Dec 24, 2012 12:35 AM, DR kg...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I was hoping that there would be dueling CQ mode in Writelog when
 operating both
 CW and Phone during the recent 10 meter contest.  During slow times, I
 wanted
 Writelog to alternate log entry focus between CW and Phone while
 alternately
 transmitting CQ in CW using the K1EL keyer, and then in Phone using a
 prerecorded wav file.  I realize that there is a mode change involved but I
 thought that it might be possible given that everything occurs on the same
 band.

 Is this possible in any of the modern day contest logging programs?

 73,
 Dave KG0US
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[Elecraft] Vedr: Re: K3 and HRD

2012-12-24 Thread Martin Storli - LA8OKA
My guess is that there is something in you're bandplan settings in the HRD that 
causes this behavior.

LA8OKA Martin

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 is an SDR?

2012-12-24 Thread Mike Reublin
Maybe some light would be shed if those who think the K2 is NOT a SDR would 
detail why.

73, Mike NF4L

On Dec 23, 2012, at 5:55 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI rta...@gmail.com wrote:

 I dunno, folks, we may be gilding lilies trying to define SDR. If software
 handles modulation and demodulation, that's SDR to me. The K3 and KX3 both
 fit fine.
 
 /Rick
 
 On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 10:34 AM, John Lawrence j123...@aol.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 Don
 
 As I'd expect, you did a beautiful job summarizing the difference between
 the K3 and KX3
 design architecture.
 
 I'd call the K3 a hybrid SDR and the KX3 a true SDR?
 
 What's interesting to me comes from looking at the leap forward in
 component technology to make
 direct SDR from RF possible.  This is the evolution in the chip level
 devices it takes to gain this single step conversion
 to baseband.  Faster and more agile DSP, A/D and D/A etc ICs are at the
 heart of the step forward
 between the K3 and KX3.
 
 The companies producing these chips were at my fingertips back in the days
 10 to 20 years ago. Then they were only able
 to make it to lower frequency IF stages with costly designs only found in
 the top high tech applications such as those found in government
 surveillance.
 
 Back then Burr Brown, Analog Devices, Texas Instruments, Motorola,
 Lucent/Bell Labs were working hard with competitive designs.  Semiconductor
 foundry geometries were heading for half micron on 4 or 6 silicon back
 then.
 
 The software development tools allowing greater coding efficiencies is
 another area that has played a major roll to bring us to this point.
 
 And, his was all done within our free enterprise environment by
 private/public capitalized US businesses.
 
 
 
 Happy Holidays
 
 
 
 
 
 John, W1QS
 
 
 Waldoboro, Maine
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 -- 
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 Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 is an SDR?

2012-12-24 Thread W4ATK
The K2 is definitely not an SDR.  The K2 uses traditional rf amps, mixers, if 
amps, crystal filters in the if, and a product detector, followed by an audio 
amp. Elecraft does offer an add on audio DSP option which works quite well.

JIm, W4ATK
On Dec 24, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Mike Reublin n...@nf4l.com wrote:

 Maybe some light would be shed if those who think the K2 is NOT a SDR would 
 detail why.
 
 73, Mike NF4L
 
 On Dec 23, 2012, at 5:55 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI rta...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I dunno, folks, we may be gilding lilies trying to define SDR. If software
 handles modulation and demodulation, that's SDR to me. The K3 and KX3 both
 fit fine.
 
 /Rick
 
 On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 10:34 AM, John Lawrence j123...@aol.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 Don
 
 As I'd expect, you did a beautiful job summarizing the difference between
 the K3 and KX3
 design architecture.
 
 I'd call the K3 a hybrid SDR and the KX3 a true SDR?
 
 What's interesting to me comes from looking at the leap forward in
 component technology to make
 direct SDR from RF possible.  This is the evolution in the chip level
 devices it takes to gain this single step conversion
 to baseband.  Faster and more agile DSP, A/D and D/A etc ICs are at the
 heart of the step forward
 between the K3 and KX3.
 
 The companies producing these chips were at my fingertips back in the days
 10 to 20 years ago. Then they were only able
 to make it to lower frequency IF stages with costly designs only found in
 the top high tech applications such as those found in government
 surveillance.
 
 Back then Burr Brown, Analog Devices, Texas Instruments, Motorola,
 Lucent/Bell Labs were working hard with competitive designs.  Semiconductor
 foundry geometries were heading for half micron on 4 or 6 silicon back
 then.
 
 The software development tools allowing greater coding efficiencies is
 another area that has played a major roll to bring us to this point.
 
 And, his was all done within our free enterprise environment by
 private/public capitalized US businesses.
 
 
 
 Happy Holidays
 
 
 
 
 
 John, W1QS
 
 
 Waldoboro, Maine
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 -- 
 Rick Tavan N6XI
 Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 is an SDR?

2012-12-24 Thread W4ATK
Perhaps a bit more explanatory

The K2 is definitely not an SDR.  The K2 uses traditional rf amps, mixers, if 
amplifier, crystal filters in the if and a product detector, followed by an 
audio amp, none of which are defined in software. Elecraft does offer an add on 
audio DSP option which works quite well.

Jim, W4ATK
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[Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Scott Krebs
My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or on 
the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question that Dean 
asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors with an 
angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer capacitors on 
the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly instructions) but 
does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board trimmer caps. I didn't 
see any additional clarification associated with that thread.

The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that have one 
side that is flattened. The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round 
profile with a square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like the 
profile of an old-style keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion side 
of the trimmer cap equates to the flattened side of the PCB outline (i.e., 
square protrusion pointing to the rear of the PCB) and have installed my 
trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption correct?

As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The K1 
DC voltage check procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 12-14 
VDC. However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power supply 
has an unloaded DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. I also 
note that the K1 specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply voltage of 
8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that once placed under load, my Vanco PS will drop 
to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to use this power supply for the DC 
voltage check procedure?

Scott
N4KTR


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[Elecraft] K3 PSK split?

2012-12-24 Thread cx7tt

Hola,

E51E was running PSK31 the other day on 17m and was sending 'up' for 
split operations...I tried to do this but the rig would not allow split; 
yes I had done A=B to get both VFOs in proper mode and then held down 
the split buttonmy workaround was to put VFO B up 1 kc, monitor the 
P3 for clear freq and toggle A/B back and forth until I worked him.


Is there a config selection I missed or another 'cockpit error' that I 
did not see?


73
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PSK split?

2012-12-24 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


K3 works split just fine in DATA A mode.  It is only PSK from paddles
(and FSK from paddles) that do not split.   Have you tried XIT?

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/24/2012 9:22 AM, cx...@4email.net wrote:

Hola,

E51E was running PSK31 the other day on 17m and was sending 'up' for
split operations...I tried to do this but the rig would not allow split;
yes I had done A=B to get both VFOs in proper mode and then held down
the split buttonmy workaround was to put VFO B up 1 kc, monitor the
P3 for clear freq and toggle A/B back and forth until I worked him.

Is there a config selection I missed or another 'cockpit error' that I
did not see?

73
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread Jim Rhodes
You know, it might just work. You have 2 entry windows and 2 rigs defined.
I am not home till Fri but will try it it then. Have to define 2 sets of
messages using only what keys you get. Would be killer if it works.

Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
On Dec 24, 2012 5:01 AM, Jim Rhodes jimk...@gmail.com wrote:

 In RTTY contests we can define the 2 receivers as 2 different radios (2
 instances of K3 in ports using same com port) I have not heard of anyone
 doing this in any other mode and certainly not in mixed mode. But it might
 be possible for the WriteLog code to be updated to allow this. Doesn't
 happen in too many contests though. It would be waaay cool.

 Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
 On Dec 24, 2012 12:35 AM, DR kg...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I was hoping that there would be dueling CQ mode in Writelog when
 operating both
 CW and Phone during the recent 10 meter contest.  During slow times, I
 wanted
 Writelog to alternate log entry focus between CW and Phone while
 alternately
 transmitting CQ in CW using the K1EL keyer, and then in Phone using a
 prerecorded wav file.  I realize that there is a mode change involved but
 I
 thought that it might be possible given that everything occurs on the
 same band.

 Is this possible in any of the modern day contest logging programs?

 73,
 Dave KG0US
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Bruce Beford
 My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline 
 shape that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly 
 instructions or on the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is
 the same question that Dean asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer
 described trimmer capacitors with an angular shape. This description
 perfectly describes the trimmer capacitors on the KFL1-4 filter board
 (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly instructions) but does not appear
 to describe the current crop of RF board trimmer caps. I didn't see
 any additional clarification associated with that thread.

Scott (and others who may be interested or wondering)

First, I no longer have my K1, so I don't have the benefit of the board in
front of me. However, some thinking, observation and measurement will lead
you to the answer you seek.

The entire goal of orienting the trimmers in a particular direction is to
insure the rotor of the capacitor (the part you turn) is grounded. This
way, you will not have hand (or tool) capacitance effects when adjusting
them. 

Take your ohmmeter and measure from the center, where the adjustment tool
contacts the capacitor. Measure to each of the two contacts, and find the
one that is shorted to the adjustment slot. That is the side you want to be
grounded after install. Next, look at the board, and see which hole for
either C1, C2, C5, C6, CA, CB, CE, or CH are connected to the ground plane
of the board. That is hole that you want the lead that you just identified
to end up in. The trimmers are all oriented the same way.

This will work for -any- style of trimmer if they change vendors or type.
You just need to look physically at the ones you have, and determine how the
rotor lead is identified for that particular part.

Simple, once you understand the goal.

Good luck,
Bruce, N1RX







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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham

Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with 
flying colors.


I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to 
tx.  Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the 
rig drops to between 9 and 9.5V.


All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on the 
PA board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod performed), is 
there anything else I should test while my station is still all together 
in one piece?


Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Chuck,

It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
Calibration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224



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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham
One other thing I forgot to mention in my last post - when I change 
bands, I get the message GEX on the display of my K3.  I can't find a 
reference to that message in my K3 owner's manual, Fred Cady's book, or 
the Elecraft web site. Can anyone shed any meaning on what that message 
means?  I'm wondering if it might be pointing me toward solving my issue.


Thanks, 73, es Merry Christmas.

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Chuck,

It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
Calibration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

I figure you have the blue bodied trimmers and not the older ceramic ones.

Look at them carefully - one end is rounded (that will be the wider end 
with rounded corners) while the 'shorter' end has angular corners and a 
flat between those corners.  That is the 'flat' side and should be 
aligned to the flat shown in the manual.  Be aware that the newer gold 
looking solder pads do not accept silkscreening, so you must align them 
like is shown in the manual.


The consequence of mounting them backwards is that you will have to use 
an insulated tool to adjust them.


Does that clear up your confusion?

73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/24/2012 9:14 AM, Scott Krebs wrote:

My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or on 
the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question that Dean 
asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors with an 
angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer capacitors on 
the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly instructions) but 
does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board trimmer caps. I didn't 
see any additional clarification associated with that thread.

The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that have one side 
that is flattened. The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round profile with a 
square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like the profile of an old-style 
keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion side of the trimmer cap equates to the 
flattened side of the PCB outline (i.e., square protrusion pointing to the rear of the 
PCB) and have installed my trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption 
correct?

As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The K1 DC 
voltage check procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 12-14 VDC. 
However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power supply has an unloaded 
DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. I also note that the K1 
specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply voltage of 8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that 
once placed under load, my Vanco PS will drop to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to 
use this power supply for the DC voltage check procedure?

Scott
N4KTR


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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Lyle Johnson
Using a DVM or other self-contained voltmeter, measure the voltage at 
the power supply end of the cable during Rx and Tx.  Is the voltage drop 
small (under 1/2 volt)?


Measure the voltage at the radio end of the cable (using the same 
voltmeter) during Tx and Rx.  Compare it to the K3 voltmeter.  The 
difference between the two voltages should be almost constant, with 
perhaps a couple tenths of a volt greater difference when in Tx. Is the 
excessive voltage drop occuring across the cable? Might it be poorly or 
improperly mated Anderson power-pole connections?  Or loose connections 
at the power supply?  Are you using a power distribution box like a 
RigRunner?  Is the drop occuring there?


The most common cause of this sort of problem is the cabling -- 
including connectors -- between the power supply and the radio.


73,

Lyle KK7P


Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with 
flying colors.


I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to 
tx.  Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the 
rig drops to between 9 and 9.5V.


All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on 
the PA board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod 
performed), is there anything else I should test while my station is 
still all together in one piece?


Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Chuck,

It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
Calibration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224



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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Wow. That will certainly explain the drop in RF power output. 

I would not suspect corroded pins on the KPA connectors since resistance
there will limit the current the PA can draw and actually reduce the voltage
drop. 

Are you looking at the voltage reported by the K3's display? If so, can you
check the output of the power supply to confirm that it is not drooping
under load. 

Next, I'd carefully inspect the power cable from the power supply to the K3
- especially the connectors. If your power supply has bolt-on terminals for
the power cable, be sure they are tight (I've seen Astrons shake a nut loose
through the low level vibration from the power transformer over a period of
months when they weren't tightened properly in the first place).

At the other end, is there any discoloration in the contacts in the
powerpole connecter? Are the contacts fully inserted in the housing?

Do you have anything else between the power supply and the K3 - power
distribution box or in line fuses, etc? If so, they can introduce the
resistance causing the voltage drop through a bad contact. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian Kahn - Ham
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 7:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with
flying colors.

I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to tx.
Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the rig drops
to between 9 and 9.5V.

All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on the PA
board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod performed), is there
anything else I should test while my station is still all together in one
piece?

Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Chuck,

 It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
 Calibration.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
 Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224


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[Elecraft] IMPORTANT CORRECTION: K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Bruce Beford
IMPORTANT ADDENDUM/CORRECTION TO MY PREVIOUS POST ON THIS.

I wrote:
 Take your ohmmeter and measure from the center, where the adjustment tool
 contacts the capacitor. Measure to each of the two contacts, and find the
 one that is shorted to the adjustment slot. That is the side you want to 
 be grounded after install. Next, look at the board, and see which hole for
 either C1, C2, C5, C6, CA, CB, CE, or CH are connected to the ground plane
 of the board. That is hole that you want the lead that you just identified
 to end up in. The trimmers are all oriented the same way.

The trimmers DO NOT all mount the same way! You must look at the assembly
instructions for the KFL1_4 board, and take note of how the trimmers mount.
On my manual, it's page 17. Compare the drawing with the trimmers you have,
to determine the proper orientation of each, once you know which side on
yours corresponds to the flat side in the drawing. Again, you need to
determine which side of the cap is connected to the center adjustment screw.
That is the side you want to be grounded. Compare that with the board, and
see if that corresponds to the flat side on the original trimmers, or the
other side. I don't have a board here to check. Once you know how your
trimmers compare to the original ones pictured in the (fig 11), you can then
orient all your trimmers accordingly.

Sorry for the mis-information in my original reply, and good luck,
Bruce, N1RX




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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

With that much voltage drop, I would strongly recommend you look at your 
power supply and the power cable to the K3.


First measure the drop while transmitting right at the power supply.  If 
you have significant sag there, either your power supply is marginal or 
the output terminals at its output may not be tight (on most power 
supplies that means the inner nut is loose.  Also make sure the cable is 
tightly clamped at the power supply end.


At the K3 end, examine the APP connector.  Look into the end and make 
sure the contact blade is fully latched over the spring finger.  If the 
APP feels like it is not holding to the mating connector on the K3 with 
adequate pressure, then suspect incorrect assembly of one or the other 
of the APP connectors (check the APP mounted on the K3 too).


The conductors in the power cable should be of an adequate size to carry 
the current.  US wire gauge #12 conductors or larger should be used.  
That is what is supplied by Elecraft.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 10:18 AM, Ian Kahn - Ham wrote:

Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with 
flying colors.


I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to 
tx.  Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the 
rig drops to between 9 and 9.5V.


All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on 
the PA board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod 
performed), is there anything else I should test while my station is 
still all together in one piece?


Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Chuck,

It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
Calibration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224



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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Jack Berry
Ian,

Google didn't find anything on the GEX error when I looked. I searched the 
Nabble archives and didn't find it there either.
Elecraft support should have that answer.

This is out of my pay grade but I would suspect the power supply rather than 
the radio. I say that because I don't see that drop on my K3 and you had the 
edge connector mod done.

Do you have another power supply or 12 volt battery you could try or borrow one?




 
God Bless  73!
Jack - WE5ST



 From: Ian Kahn - Ham km4ik@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue
 
One other thing I forgot to mention in my last post - when I change 
bands, I get the message GEX on the display of my K3.  I can't find a 
reference to that message in my K3 owner's manual, Fred Cady's book, or 
the Elecraft web site. Can anyone shed any meaning on what that message 
means?  I'm wondering if it might be pointing me toward solving my issue.

Thanks, 73, es Merry Christmas.

--Ian
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Re: [Elecraft] IMPORTANT CORRECTION: K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
The flat side on the board is indeed the grounded side - but as I 
mentioned, you cannot see the flat on the silkscreen any more, you will 
have to follow the diagram in the manual.  The flat sides are not in the 
same relative orientation - in each row of 4 there are 2 with the flat 
to the left and 2 with the flat to the right.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 10:43 AM, Bruce Beford wrote:

IMPORTANT ADDENDUM/CORRECTION TO MY PREVIOUS POST ON THIS.

I wrote:

Take your ohmmeter and measure from the center, where the adjustment tool
contacts the capacitor. Measure to each of the two contacts, and find the
one that is shorted to the adjustment slot. That is the side you want to
be grounded after install. Next, look at the board, and see which hole for
either C1, C2, C5, C6, CA, CB, CE, or CH are connected to the ground plane
of the board. That is hole that you want the lead that you just identified
to end up in. The trimmers are all oriented the same way.

The trimmers DO NOT all mount the same way! You must look at the assembly
instructions for the KFL1_4 board, and take note of how the trimmers mount.
On my manual, it's page 17. Compare the drawing with the trimmers you have,
to determine the proper orientation of each, once you know which side on
yours corresponds to the flat side in the drawing. Again, you need to
determine which side of the cap is connected to the center adjustment screw.
That is the side you want to be grounded. Compare that with the board, and
see if that corresponds to the flat side on the original trimmers, or the
other side. I don't have a board here to check. Once you know how your
trimmers compare to the original ones pictured in the (fig 11), you can then
orient all your trimmers accordingly.

Sorry for the mis-information in my original reply, and good luck,
Bruce, N1RX




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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread Ted Bryant
This will work in N1MM Logger with two radios (SO2R)

Season's Greetings,
Ted W4NZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Jim Rhodes
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 9:57 AM
To: DR
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest


You know, it might just work. You have 2 entry windows and 2 rigs defined.
I am not home till Fri but will try it it then. Have to define 2 sets of
messages using only what keys you get. Would be killer if it works.

Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
On Dec 24, 2012 5:01 AM, Jim Rhodes jimk...@gmail.com wrote:

 In RTTY contests we can define the 2 receivers as 2 different radios (2
 instances of K3 in ports using same com port) I have not heard of anyone
 doing this in any other mode and certainly not in mixed mode. But it might
 be possible for the WriteLog code to be updated to allow this. Doesn't
 happen in too many contests though. It would be waaay cool.

 Jim K0XU Sent from my Xoom tablet
 On Dec 24, 2012 12:35 AM, DR kg...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I was hoping that there would be dueling CQ mode in Writelog when
 operating both
 CW and Phone during the recent 10 meter contest.  During slow times, I
 wanted
 Writelog to alternate log entry focus between CW and Phone while
 alternately
 transmitting CQ in CW using the K1EL keyer, and then in Phone using a
 prerecorded wav file.  I realize that there is a mode change involved but
 I
 thought that it might be possible given that everything occurs on the
 same band.

 Is this possible in any of the modern day contest logging programs?

 73,
 Dave KG0US
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham

Don/all,

It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March of 
this year.  When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from over 
4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is .78 to 
.82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal power 
meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 70 
watts out.  The current and voltage readings look normal, according to 
Rev. D10 of the owner's manual.  But I'm still concerned about a 30W 
drop at the output. Anyone have any other suggestions?


Thanks, 73, es Merry Christmas.

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/24/2012 10:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ian,

With that much voltage drop, I would strongly recommend you look at 
your power supply and the power cable to the K3.


First measure the drop while transmitting right at the power supply.  
If you have significant sag there, either your power supply is 
marginal or the output terminals at its output may not be tight (on 
most power supplies that means the inner nut is loose.  Also make sure 
the cable is tightly clamped at the power supply end.


At the K3 end, examine the APP connector.  Look into the end and make 
sure the contact blade is fully latched over the spring finger.  If 
the APP feels like it is not holding to the mating connector on the K3 
with adequate pressure, then suspect incorrect assembly of one or the 
other of the APP connectors (check the APP mounted on the K3 too).


The conductors in the power cable should be of an adequate size to 
carry the current.  US wire gauge #12 conductors or larger should be 
used.  That is what is supplied by Elecraft.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 10:18 AM, Ian Kahn - Ham wrote:

Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed 
with flying colors.


I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx 
to tx.  Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across 
the rig drops to between 9 and 9.5V.


All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on 
the PA board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod 
performed), is there anything else I should test while my station is 
still all together in one piece?


Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Chuck,

It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
Calibration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Could it be/affect a 40% difference?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224



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[Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread KD7YZ Bob
Howdy K3' people:

I have a KAT500. The Auto green LED is lit. I have previously tuned to
the best it could get on 17m.

This morning it is drizzling. The 450 ladder can sometimes act up when
it is raining.

So I begin a JT9, one-minute long, sequence. Next I hear a little
chatter and see the Red-LED come on for SWR=3.

The Auto LED is now flashing. No tuning is taking place and the
one-minute transmission finishes.

I press  hold the XMIT/TUNE button and the KAT500 finds a nice SWR of
1.1 .

Next sequence comes around and the K3 switches to xmit. The KAT500
chatters maybe once and the Red SWR LED comes on again. The Auto LED
is now flashing. I can do nothing about this while the K3 is
transmitting. Technically I should kill the XMIT and correct the SWR
problem. We all know this.

Fortunately I was running  but 5 watts on the JT9-1 mode so I don't
believe I did any damage.

When I used my Palstar AT2K tuner, and it was raining, I'd see the VSWR
climb, and knowing the cause, would just manually turn a knob and keep
the SWR down. Was jut something ya do when it's raining,

Is there something I am overlooking with my new automatic-tuner?




-- 
73
KD7YZ Bob

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[Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-12-24 Thread Alan Price

A happy Holiday season and a great and healthy new year to all. I just finished 
my fully loaded KX3.  I am having several issues with it.  Elecraft is closed 
today, so decided to ask other Elecraft users some questions.  Here is the 
first: I am having three issues with my new KX3 serial number 3085. I
am unable to align the filter. There is no change in amplitude when I try to
find a null. I have attempted the alignment about 7 or 8 times. 

Second: The second issue is that I can't calibrate the radio. Using my Bird 43 
and Bird dummy load, the calibration stops saying the SWR is 99/1, and stops. 
When I transmit into the same load all is fine with a 1/1 SWR.  Third: The 
third problem is in LSB. In USB I hear signals and it sounds great. When I 
switch to LSB the radio goes silent. Nothing at all.  Any ideas? 73AlanW1HYV
   
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Jim Brown

On 12/23/2012 11:27 AM, John Shaw wrote:

if the
KAT500 was passed the operating frequency information from the transceiver
instead of just band information that would elevate it from a good tuner to
a great tuner.


As a beta tester for the KAT500, I can tell you that 1) Elecraft says 
that this data is NOT available at the output of the K3;  and 2) the 
KAT500 works just fine without that information if you use it 
intelligently and don't screw up switching the antennas that you connect 
to it.  Like you, I wish that #1 was implemented, but I am told that it 
is not.


I'm using a single KAT500 with two power amps -- a KPA500 and a Ten Tec 
Titan 425 (35 year old design, 1.5kW output).  I use ANT1 and ANT2 in 
the K3 to switch between the two amp inputs, and a relay to switch the 
outputs. I also do extensive antenna switching external to the KAT500.  
I've trained the KAT500 to my antennas for the band segments where I 
operate, and program the KAT500 (using the KAT Utility) for which KAT 
output ports to use on which bands. When I change bands, I hit a dit or 
tap my mic to let the KAT500 read frequency, switches to the desired 
output port, recalls the tuning, and I'm ready to go.  That works great 
-- EXCEPT when I screw up and don't do the right external switching to 
the KAT500.  I'm working on automating that switching, but it's not done 
yet.


The KAT500 is an excellent tuner.  I took the beta unit to our Tehama 
County expedition for the California QSO Party, and it performed 
flawlessly switching between aluminum and wire antennas for several 
bands  We used it with a K3 and KPA500, with only the key line cables 
between K3, KAT500, and KPA500.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Tim Hague
I'd check the accuracy of the meter, with nearly 20A being drawn on TX, I'd 
expect 100W out of the rig...

Best regards, Tim Hague
Skype m0afj.Tim
Sent on my iPad


On 24 Dec 2012, at 16:51, Ian Kahn - Ham km4ik@gmail.com wrote:

 Don/all,
 
 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March of this 
 year.  When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from over 4V on tx 
 to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is .78 to .82 amps on rx 
 and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal power meter shows 100W, an 
 external meter into a dummy load only shows 70 watts out.  The current and 
 voltage readings look normal, according to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual.  
 But I'm still concerned about a 30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other 
 suggestions?
 
 Thanks, 73, es Merry Christmas.
 
 --Ian
 
 Ian Kahn, KM4IK
 Roswell, GA  EM74ua
 km4ik@gmail.com
 K3 #281, P3 #688
 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
 
 On 12/24/2012 10:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Ian,
 
 With that much voltage drop, I would strongly recommend you look at your 
 power supply and the power cable to the K3.
 
 First measure the drop while transmitting right at the power supply.  If you 
 have significant sag there, either your power supply is marginal or the 
 output terminals at its output may not be tight (on most power supplies that 
 means the inner nut is loose.  Also make sure the cable is tightly clamped 
 at the power supply end.
 
 At the K3 end, examine the APP connector.  Look into the end and make sure 
 the contact blade is fully latched over the spring finger.  If the APP feels 
 like it is not holding to the mating connector on the K3 with adequate 
 pressure, then suspect incorrect assembly of one or the other of the APP 
 connectors (check the APP mounted on the K3 too).
 
 The conductors in the power cable should be of an adequate size to carry the 
 current.  US wire gauge #12 conductors or larger should be used.  That is 
 what is supplied by Elecraft.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 12/24/2012 10:18 AM, Ian Kahn - Ham wrote:
 Update on my low output issue:
 
 I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with 
 flying colors.
 
 I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to tx.  
 Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the rig drops 
 to between 9 and 9.5V.
 
 All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.
 
 Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on the PA 
 board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod performed), is there 
 anything else I should test while my station is still all together in one 
 piece?
 
 Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!
 
 73,
 
 --Ian
 
 Ian Kahn, KM4IK
 Roswell, GA  EM74ua
 km4ik@gmail.com
 K3 #281, P3 #688
 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
 
 On 12/23/2012 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Chuck,
 
 It could - defer decisions on that until after doing the TX Gain 
 Calibration.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 12/23/2012 5:01 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
 Could it be/affect a 40% difference?
 
 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Bob, it sounds like rain is changing the characteristics of that ladder line
and so altering the tuning solution required at the KAT500. 

The blinking MODE light says it's ready to tune once you apply enough RF
power. Five watts won't do it. The KAT500 cannot tune with less than 10
watts of RF applied (20 watts is required for the most accurate tuning).

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KD7YZ Bob
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 8:52 AM
To: K3 List
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

Howdy K3' people:

I have a KAT500. The Auto green LED is lit. I have previously tuned to the
best it could get on 17m.

This morning it is drizzling. The 450 ladder can sometimes act up when it is
raining.

So I begin a JT9, one-minute long, sequence. Next I hear a little chatter
and see the Red-LED come on for SWR=3.

The Auto LED is now flashing. No tuning is taking place and the one-minute
transmission finishes.

I press  hold the XMIT/TUNE button and the KAT500 finds a nice SWR of
1.1 .

Next sequence comes around and the K3 switches to xmit. The KAT500 chatters
maybe once and the Red SWR LED comes on again. The Auto LED is now
flashing. I can do nothing about this while the K3 is transmitting.
Technically I should kill the XMIT and correct the SWR problem. We all know
this.

Fortunately I was running  but 5 watts on the JT9-1 mode so I don't believe
I did any damage.

When I used my Palstar AT2K tuner, and it was raining, I'd see the VSWR
climb, and knowing the cause, would just manually turn a knob and keep the
SWR down. Was jut something ya do when it's raining,

Is there something I am overlooking with my new automatic-tuner?




--
73
KD7YZ Bob

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Lyle Johnson
Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the 
internal wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the external 
wattmeter.


If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is 
reporting 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is 
only 70 W (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna 
wiring and chassis connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 
wattmeter may need to be calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to 
go to the menu and adjust it.  But only do this if you are CERTAIN your 
external wattmeter is in fact accurate. Once you are certain the K3 
wattmeter is reporting within spec, re-run the Tx calibration.


BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter accuracy.


73,

Lyle KK7P

It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
of this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is 
.78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal 
power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 
70 watts out. The current and voltage readings look normal, according 
to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual. But I'm still concerned about a 30W 
drop at the output. Anyone have any other suggestions?


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[Elecraft] Holiday Greetings

2012-12-24 Thread Bob W7AVK

Fellow Elecraft Enthusiasts,

I would like to take this opportunity to say Merry Christmas and Happy 
New Year.  I hope that you will be blessed with good health, happiness, 
and that your Elecraft dreams will be fulfilled.


73Bob  W7AVK
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Scott Krebs
Don,

These are definitely not the blue-bodied trim caps. I'm familiar with those as 
they are used in the KFL1-4, which I've already assembled. No confusion at all 
as to how to orient the blue-bodied, angular-nosed trim caps.

The C13/20 trim caps I've now installed on my RF board appear to have a white, 
cylindrical, possibly ceramic body. There are no flat sides on the main body. 
Underneath the slotted adjusting screw is what appears to be a fiber washer, 
half brown and half white, with a small blob of what appears to be solder 
applied between the side of the adjusting screw and white half of the washer. 
One electrical connector is attached to the back side of the cylindrical body 
while the other electrical connector is attached to the square protrusion from 
the other side of the cylindrical body.

The assumption I made during installation was to match the asymmetrical side 
(i.e., square protrusion) of the trim cap with the flat side marked on the PCB.

Scott

On Dec 24, 2012, at 10:34 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Scott,
 
 I figure you have the blue bodied trimmers and not the older ceramic ones.
 
 Look at them carefully - one end is rounded (that will be the wider end with 
 rounded corners) while the 'shorter' end has angular corners and a flat 
 between those corners.  That is the 'flat' side and should be aligned to the 
 flat shown in the manual.  Be aware that the newer gold looking solder pads 
 do not accept silkscreening, so you must align them like is shown in the 
 manual.
 
 The consequence of mounting them backwards is that you will have to use an 
 insulated tool to adjust them.
 
 Does that clear up your confusion?
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 On 12/24/2012 9:14 AM, Scott Krebs wrote:
 My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
 that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or 
 on the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question 
 that Dean asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors 
 with an angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer 
 capacitors on the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly 
 instructions) but does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board 
 trimmer caps. I didn't see any additional clarification associated with that 
 thread.
 
 The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that have one 
 side that is flattened. The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round 
 profile with a square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like 
 the profile of an old-style keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion 
 side of the trimmer cap equates to the flattened side of the PCB outline 
 (i.e., square protrusion pointing to the rear of the PCB) and have installed 
 my trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption correct?
 
 As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The 
 K1 DC voltage check procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 
 12-14 VDC. However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power 
 supply has an unloaded DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. 
 I also note that the K1 specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply 
 voltage of 8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that once placed under load, my Vanco 
 PS will drop to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to use this power 
 supply for the DC voltage check procedure?
 
 Scott
 N4KTR
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread KD7YZ Bob

On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send:
-Original Comment---

 The blinking MODE light says it's ready to tune once you apply enough RF
 power. Five watts won't do it. The KAT500 cannot tune with less than 10
 watts of RF applied (20 watts is required for the most accurate tuning).

I upped the power to 20w to see if it could tune itself during a
transmit sequence. It seems that it can,  though I only got one chance to
see it as the drizzle let off,

Keeping such high power though on this mode is not only unnecessary but
it also serves to Jam a lot of the other guys who are using this weak
signal mode.

Usually 1 to 5 watts is sufficient for the continents I have worked.
Very occasionally on what seems to be a dead band here, I have used 50
to work the EU area.

-- 
Best regards,
Bob  KD7YZWin7-64bit + K3

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
You don't have to keep that power level, Bob. You only need it if the KAT500
needs to retune, and then only for the retune cycle. For that you might QSY
a few KHz to a clear spot although between five and twenty watts you are
only talking about a one S-unit difference in signal. 

The next thing is to find out why your antenna is so sensitive to moisture.
There are treatments some fellows use on window line that help it repel
water and so not detune it so much. Or is there a tree branch that touches
the antenna when it's wet with fresh rain. Normally, rain alone won't detune
an antenna enough to matter. 

73 Ron AC7AC


---Original Message-

On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send:
-Original Comment---

 The blinking MODE light says it's ready to tune once you apply enough 
 RF power. Five watts won't do it. The KAT500 cannot tune with less 
 than 10 watts of RF applied (20 watts is required for the most accurate
tuning).

I upped the power to 20w to see if it could tune itself during a transmit
sequence. It seems that it can,  though I only got one chance to see it as
the drizzle let off,

Keeping such high power though on this mode is not only unnecessary but it
also serves to Jam a lot of the other guys who are using this weak signal
mode.

Usually 1 to 5 watts is sufficient for the continents I have worked.
Very occasionally on what seems to be a dead band here, I have used 50 to
work the EU area.

--
Best regards,
Bob  KD7YZWin7-64bit + K3

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (12/23/12)

2012-12-24 Thread Phillip Shepard
We had a good net today with 31 participants over a 30 minute period.  No
discussions. Have a very merry Christmas and a wonderful holiday season.

Here is the list of participants:

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

K5RHD   Randy   NM  Flex 5000
WB9JNZ  EricIL  K3  4017
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
W2RWA   DickNY  K3  2603
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
KA7MAY  Calvin  UT  KX3 2706QRP
KM4VX   Ron NC  K3  3857
N6JWJohnCA  K3  936
K4TMCarrie  VA  K3  3448
WW4JF   JohnTN  K3  6185
K9QJS   HoopWA  K3  6885
K7BRR   BillAZ  KX3 2013
N0MNRichSD  K3  4575
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K2/310, KX3/161 QRP
NJ6LNealKY  K3  4601
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
AB7CE   Roy MT  KX3 115 QRP
K6DSW   Don CA  K3  3138
WB8RAE  BillNY  K3  2389
KC5RY   George  TX  K3  5208
W7NMD   Palmer  AR  K3  3779
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
KG0KP   Jim MO  K3  1442
K6XRReggie  CA  KX3 2369QRP
WD5MDavid   TX  K3  6493
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
KN5LJohnTX  KX3 1658
KL7UW   Ed  AK  KX3 475 QRP
KG4LUN  Bob VA  KX3 2319
K2CPE   RichNJ  K2  1102QRP
K1NDJan MI  KX3 2356
WN4SLG  DougTN  K3  6433
KB0YHL  Denny   MN  K3  5165
AD5XM   Wallace LA  K3  5956
N0CERichMN  K3  5105
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,

Phil, NS7P
ph...@riousa.com

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[Elecraft] KX1 has sold!

2012-12-24 Thread AC6JA
 
The KX1 has sold.
Thank you.

Happy holidays!

Mike AC6JA
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham
So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem 
appears to be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank 
you to all who offered guidance on getting this thing tested and 
troubleshot.


Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the 
internal wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the 
external wattmeter.


If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is 
reporting 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is 
only 70 W (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna 
wiring and chassis connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 
wattmeter may need to be calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to 
go to the menu and adjust it.  But only do this if you are CERTAIN 
your external wattmeter is in fact accurate. Once you are certain the 
K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, re-run the Tx calibration.


BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter 
accuracy.


73,

Lyle KK7P

It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
of this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is 
.78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the 
internal power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load 
only shows 70 watts out. The current and voltage readings look 
normal, according to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual. But I'm still 
concerned about a 30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other 
suggestions?


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

Sorry I misread your question.  Yes the side protruding is kind-of 
square which makes it a flat side.  The remainder of the body is round.


You apparently have them mounted correctly.

73,
Don w3FPR

On 12/24/2012 12:31 PM, Scott Krebs wrote:

Don,

These are definitely not the blue-bodied trim caps. I'm familiar with those as 
they are used in the KFL1-4, which I've already assembled. No confusion at all 
as to how to orient the blue-bodied, angular-nosed trim caps.

The C13/20 trim caps I've now installed on my RF board appear to have a white, 
cylindrical, possibly ceramic body. There are no flat sides on the main body. 
Underneath the slotted adjusting screw is what appears to be a fiber washer, 
half brown and half white, with a small blob of what appears to be solder 
applied between the side of the adjusting screw and white half of the washer. 
One electrical connector is attached to the back side of the cylindrical body 
while the other electrical connector is attached to the square protrusion from 
the other side of the cylindrical body.

The assumption I made during installation was to match the asymmetrical side 
(i.e., square protrusion) of the trim cap with the flat side marked on the PCB.

Scott

On Dec 24, 2012, at 10:34 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Scott,

I figure you have the blue bodied trimmers and not the older ceramic ones.

Look at them carefully - one end is rounded (that will be the wider end with 
rounded corners) while the 'shorter' end has angular corners and a flat between 
those corners.  That is the 'flat' side and should be aligned to the flat shown 
in the manual.  Be aware that the newer gold looking solder pads do not accept 
silkscreening, so you must align them like is shown in the manual.

The consequence of mounting them backwards is that you will have to use an 
insulated tool to adjust them.

Does that clear up your confusion?

73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/24/2012 9:14 AM, Scott Krebs wrote:

My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or on 
the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question that Dean 
asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors with an 
angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer capacitors on 
the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly instructions) but 
does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board trimmer caps. I didn't 
see any additional clarification associated with that thread.

The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that have one side 
that is flattened. The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round profile with a 
square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like the profile of an old-style 
keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion side of the trimmer cap equates to the 
flattened side of the PCB outline (i.e., square protrusion pointing to the rear of the 
PCB) and have installed my trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption 
correct?

As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The K1 DC 
voltage check procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 12-14 VDC. 
However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power supply has an unloaded 
DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. I also note that the K1 
specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply voltage of 8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that 
once placed under load, my Vanco PS will drop to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to 
use this power supply for the DC voltage check procedure?

Scott
N4KTR


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Keith-K5ENS
+1) Elecraft says that this data is NOT available at the output of the
K3;  +


The K3 can be polled for this data.  Many loggers are doing it.  There is
even some software that is polling data from the logger at the same time.

Keith



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT500-and-OT-Is-a-tuner-using-VNA-feasible-tp7567559p7567626.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

Any chance of borrowing another wattmeter for a sanity check on your 
external meter?

It sounds like your external meter may be reading quite low.
19.8 amps on TX would indicate 100 watts or greater output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 11:51 AM, Ian Kahn - Ham wrote:

Don/all,

It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
of this year.  When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is 
.78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal 
power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 
70 watts out.  The current and voltage readings look normal, according 
to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual.  But I'm still concerned about a 
30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other suggestions?


Thanks, 73, es Merry Christmas.


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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Brian Alsop
The first rule in troubleshooting is to unplug everything that isn't 
absolutely necessary to the equipment being diagnosed.


In this case all that would be needed is power, ant/dummy load and the K3.

Then start plugging things in until you find the offending device.

73 de Brian/K3KO

Ian Kahn - Ham wrote:
So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem 
appears to be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank 
you to all who offered guidance on getting this thing tested and 
troubleshot.


Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the 
internal wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the 
external wattmeter.


If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is 
reporting 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is 
only 70 W (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna 
wiring and chassis connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 
wattmeter may need to be calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to 
go to the menu and adjust it.  But only do this if you are CERTAIN 
your external wattmeter is in fact accurate. Once you are certain the 
K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, re-run the Tx calibration.


BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter 
accuracy.


73,

Lyle KK7P

It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
of this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is 
.78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the 
internal power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load 
only shows 70 watts out. The current and voltage readings look 
normal, according to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual. But I'm still 
concerned about a 30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other 
suggestions?


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread KD7YZ Bob

On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send:
-Original Comment---
 You don't have to keep that power level, Bob. You only need it if the KAT500
 needs to retune, and then only for the retune cycle. For that you might QSY
 a few KHz

On CW or SSB I could try that. With some of these WSJT-Like modes, it's
pretty important to be on the same freq u were on, within Hertz; And,
call me old, but with about 6 to 10 seconds before the other cycle
starts, there isn't a lot of time to QSY and retune.

 to a clear spot although between five and twenty watts you are
 only talking about a one S-unit difference in signal. 

thanks. Although I was more worried about damaging the K3 than the
signal strength.


 The next thing is to find out why your antenna is so sensitive to moisture.

hmmm, true.  Same when there is ice on it or snow. The other night in a
45mph wind, the 160m DP was going up and down about 30 feet it looked to
me. I use blocks and pulley to let it float  It was graceful to watch
but worrisome too.


-- 
Best regards,
Bob  KD7YZWin7-64bit + K3

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Tom H Childers
I have absolutely no complaints regarding the KAT500.

I have two sets of antennae connected to the KAT500.  One set is an 8
position switch box and the other is an NVIS loop that covers all
frequencies from 2.2MHz to 28MHz used for short distance
communications on MARS.

The antennae on the switch box are connected to the #2 output and the
loop is connected to the #1 antenna. there is no duplication of
frequencies between the ports.  After I used the tuner on each
frequency I use, it immediately switches to the correct antenna port
and if the frequency has been tuned in the past the tuner does not
re-tune for that frequency unless something has changed at the
antenna.

I couldn't ask for more.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 08:27:02 +1300, John Shaw zl1...@nzart.org.nz
wrote:


Having a KPA500 and been a potential customer for the KAT500 I have been
watching reports about the KAT500 operation, unless I misunderstand it seems
the KAT500 only has band information available to it so it needs a sniff of
RF to make band segment adjustments.  I think it can already store settings
for band segments from previous training but without the frequency
information prior to been sent RF it is unable to make the most efficient
use of it.  I'm no EE so I do not know what it would take to implement this,
how much in extra hardware and software design but in my opinion if the
KAT500 was passed the operating frequency information from the transceiver
instead of just band information that would elevate it from a good tuner to
a great tuner.  

73 John ZL1BYZ



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73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread Jeff Stai
Sounds cool, and as noted is something we can do at least for RTTY, and
might work for other modes and mixed modes.

But given that you have to listen between CQs, that's a long time between
CQs in each mode:

CW-listen-phone-listen-CW-listen-phone...

I think you'd be better off just calling a tighter cycle in one mode at a
time, or using true SO2R with a second radio/antenna (if possible). Just my
opinion.

But that said... you would set up Writelog for two radios, and configure
the Ports menu as two K3s on the same control port. Then in the entry
windows L and R you can select the VFO and mode for each window.

At that point you may find that Writelog can handle the mixed mode, but if
it can't, you could diddle the mode between CQs (and hopefully don't mess
up...)

good luck and 73 - jeff wk6i

On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 10:35 PM, DR kg...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I was hoping that there would be dueling CQ mode in Writelog when
 operating both
 CW and Phone during the recent 10 meter contest.  During slow times, I
 wanted
 Writelog to alternate log entry focus between CW and Phone while
 alternately
 transmitting CQ in CW using the K1EL keyer, and then in Phone using a
 prerecorded wav file.  I realize that there is a mode change involved but I
 thought that it might be possible given that everything occurs on the same
 band.

 Is this possible in any of the modern day contest logging programs?

 73,
 Dave KG0US
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-- 
Jeff Stai ~ wk6i.j...@gmail.com
Twisted Oak Winery ~ http://www.twistedoak.com/
Facebook ~ http://www.facebook.com/twistedoak
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Jack Berry
Bet it's the Power Pole connectors, meaning the installation of the connectors. 
But if it is the RigRunner, West Mountain will take care of it. 

Glad you isolated the problem!

On Dec 24, 2012, at 12:52 PM, Ian Kahn - Ham km4ik@gmail.com wrote:

 So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem appears to 
 be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank you to all who 
 offered guidance on getting this thing tested and troubleshot.
 
 Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!
 
 --Ian
 
 Ian Kahn, KM4IK
 Roswell, GA  EM74ua
 km4ik@gmail.com
 K3 #281, P3 #688
 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
 
 On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
 Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the internal 
 wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the external wattmeter.
 
 If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is reporting 
 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is only 70 W 
 (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna wiring and chassis 
 connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 wattmeter may need to be 
 calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to go to the menu and adjust it.  
 But only do this if you are CERTAIN your external wattmeter is in fact 
 accurate. Once you are certain the K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, 
 re-run the Tx calibration.
 
 BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light gauge 
 wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter accuracy.
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
 
 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March of 
 this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from over 4V 
 on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is .78 to .82 
 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal power meter 
 shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 70 watts out. 
 The current and voltage readings look normal, according to Rev. D10 of the 
 owner's manual. But I'm still concerned about a 30W drop at the output. 
 Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Twan at pa0kv.nl

Bad regulated power supply.
I use a MANSON EP-925 (also known with other brand names).
This handles 25 amps easy with just a few 0.1 of voltage drop.
After some successful mods it is stable within 0.05 V RX/TX 100 Watt at 13.80 
Volt.
(If interested see my mods at 
http://pa0fri.home.xs4all.nl/Diversen/EP925/ep925eng.htm)

Merry X-mass and a happy new year to you all.

Twan - PA0KV

K3 -1770


Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 10:18:27 -0500
From: Ian Kahn - Hamkm4ik@gmail.com
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue
Message-ID:50d87243.5030...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Update on my low output issue:

I ran the TX Gain Calibration this morning, and everything passed with
flying colors.

I am seeing about a 4-4.5V drop across the radio when going from rx to
tx.  Rx voltage sits at 13.8V, but when I transmit, voltage across the
rig drops to between 9 and 9.5V.

All tests performed while tuned into a 300W dummy load.

Before I tear into my rig and start looking for corroded tin pins on the
PA board (K3 #281, so unlikely the board was replaced/mod performed), is
there anything else I should test while my station is still all together
in one piece?

Thanks to everyone for the assistance, and Merry Christmas!

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Jack Berry
Forgot to mention, absolutely run the calibration again with the correct 13.8V 
supply. Then address the power output - if it still exists. 

On Dec 24, 2012, at 12:52 PM, Ian Kahn - Ham km4ik@gmail.com wrote:

 So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem appears to 
 be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank you to all who 
 offered guidance on getting this thing tested and troubleshot.
 
 Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!
 
 --Ian
 
 Ian Kahn, KM4IK
 Roswell, GA  EM74ua
 km4ik@gmail.com
 K3 #281, P3 #688
 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
 
 On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
 Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the internal 
 wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the external wattmeter.
 
 If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is reporting 
 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is only 70 W 
 (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna wiring and chassis 
 connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 wattmeter may need to be 
 calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to go to the menu and adjust it.  
 But only do this if you are CERTAIN your external wattmeter is in fact 
 accurate. Once you are certain the K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, 
 re-run the Tx calibration.
 
 BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light gauge 
 wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter accuracy.
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
 
 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March of 
 this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from over 4V 
 on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is .78 to .82 
 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal power meter 
 shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 70 watts out. 
 The current and voltage readings look normal, according to Rev. D10 of the 
 owner's manual. But I'm still concerned about a 30W drop at the output. 
 Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I don't get this. How is the rig runner implicated? The power doesn't go thru 
it...DC or RF. So are you saying the drive was insufficient? And if so, how is 
that not easy to diagnose?

Sent from my iPad
Chuck, KE9UW 
(Jack for BMW motorcycles)

On Dec 24, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Jack Berry we...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Bet it's the Power Pole connectors, meaning the installation of the 
 connectors. But if it is the RigRunner, West Mountain will take care of it. 
 
 Glad you isolated the problem!
 
 On Dec 24, 2012, at 12:52 PM, Ian Kahn - Ham km4ik@gmail.com wrote:
 
 So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem appears 
 to be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank you to all 
 who offered guidance on getting this thing tested and troubleshot.
 
 Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!
 
 --Ian
 
 Ian Kahn, KM4IK
 Roswell, GA  EM74ua
 km4ik@gmail.com
 K3 #281, P3 #688
 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
 
 On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
 Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the internal 
 wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the external wattmeter.
 
 If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is reporting 
 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is only 70 W 
 (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna wiring and chassis 
 connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 wattmeter may need to be 
 calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to go to the menu and adjust it. 
  But only do this if you are CERTAIN your external wattmeter is in fact 
 accurate. Once you are certain the K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, 
 re-run the Tx calibration.
 
 BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
 gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter accuracy.
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
 
 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March of 
 this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from over 4V 
 on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is .78 to .82 
 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the internal power meter 
 shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load only shows 70 watts out. 
 The current and voltage readings look normal, according to Rev. D10 of the 
 owner's manual. But I'm still concerned about a 30W drop at the output. 
 Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

You could easily turn on XIT and move your frequency up or down a bit, 
then increase power to TUNE (set TUN PWR in the menu)

When it has tuned, clear XIT and you should be good.

73,
Don w3FPR

On 12/24/2012 2:01 PM, KD7YZ Bob wrote:
On CW or SSB I could try that. With some of these WSJT-Like modes, 
it's pretty important to be on the same freq u were on, within Hertz; 
And, call me old, but with about 6 to 10 seconds before the other 
cycle starts, there isn't a lot of time to QSY and retune.


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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread KGØUS
Thanks Ted.

I wanted to do SO2V mixed mode with a single K3 during the 10 meter contest. 

I had not seriously done a 10 meter contest in a while and I was hoping that
this was already perfected in N1MM or Writelog.  I played around with it for
a little while but I could not get it to work properly.

73,

Dave KG0US



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Dueling-CQ-During-Mixed-Mode-10-Meter-Contest-tp7567591p7567636.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Bruce Beford
 I don't get this. How is the rig runner implicated? The power doesn't go 
 thru it...DC or RF.

Of course it does- the Rig Runner is a DC power distribution panel.
-Bruce, N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread hawley, charles j jr
Oh sorry, I see that. I was thinking of those digital interface boxes.

Sent from my iPhone
Chuck (Jack)

On Dec 24, 2012, at 1:21 PM, Bruce Beford bruce.bef...@myfairpoint.net 
wrote:

 I don't get this. How is the rig runner implicated? The power doesn't go 
 thru it...DC or RF.
 
 Of course it does- the Rig Runner is a DC power distribution panel.
 -Bruce, N1RX
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread Tom H Childers
It seems like I've heard someone suggest that spray-on car wax does a
good job of making the ladder line real slippery.  I haven't tried it
yet, but I have two ladderline pieces on my NVIS loop. Twenty seven
feet of feed line and a ten foot stub at the opposite corner that
detune a bit in the rain.  However when the loop needs to be
re-matched I just hit the straight key here and the KAT500 finds a
match that works.  However I seldom run less than 100 watts.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member



On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:01:19 -0500, KD7YZ Bob kd...@denstarfarm.us
wrote:


On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send:
-Original Comment---
 You don't have to keep that power level, Bob. You only need it if the KAT500
 needs to retune, and then only for the retune cycle. For that you might QSY
 a few KHz

On CW or SSB I could try that. With some of these WSJT-Like modes, it's
pretty important to be on the same freq u were on, within Hertz; And,
call me old, but with about 6 to 10 seconds before the other cycle
starts, there isn't a lot of time to QSY and retune.

 to a clear spot although between five and twenty watts you are
 only talking about a one S-unit difference in signal. 

thanks. Although I was more worried about damaging the K3 than the
signal strength.


 The next thing is to find out why your antenna is so sensitive to moisture.

hmmm, true.  Same when there is ice on it or snow. The other night in a
45mph wind, the 160m DP was going up and down about 30 feet it looked to
me. I use blocks and pulley to let it float  It was graceful to watch
but worrisome too.
73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Dick Dievendorff
That would require taking over the K3's serial port. The KAT500 is not
connected to the K3's serial port. Most loggers would prefer to own the
serial port rather than relegate it to an ATU.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith-K5ENS
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 10:58 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

+1) Elecraft says that this data is NOT available at the output of 
+the
K3;  +


The K3 can be polled for this data.  Many loggers are doing it.  There is
even some software that is polling data from the logger at the same time.

Keith



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

The frequency data is not available on the *AUX* bus. On the serial port
this data is of course available but to make it available to KAT500 would
involve at least one PC software program.  I have in mind to ask Larry
Phipps if maybe he could add a feature to LP-Bridge to feed the frequency
data out one of the output virtual ports. The utility could then listen to
that port and send the data to the KAT500. This is getting rather
complicated and involves a number of developers working together. 

AB2TC - Knut


Keith-K5ENS wrote
 +1) Elecraft says that this data is NOT available at the output of the
 K3;  +
 
 
 The K3 can be polled for this data.  Many loggers are doing it.  There is
 even some software that is polling data from the logger at the same time.
 
 Keith





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Keith-K5ENS
The KAT500 following the radio by frequency is not going to happen but that
would make a GREAT new generation auto tuner.  IMHO

Keith, XE3/K5ENS



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread ab2tc
Hello again,

A simpler way that would only involve changes to the KAT500 utility would to
have the utility talk to both the K3 and the KAT500. Even if the K3 is
already busy talking to a logging program, LP-Bridge unmodified can fix that
conflict. So now we have just created more work for Dick.

AB2TC - Knut

PS, Merry Christmas to all.


ab2tc wrote
 Hi,
 
 The frequency data is not available on the *AUX* bus. On the serial port
 this data is of course available but to make it available to KAT500 would
 involve at least one PC software program.  I have in mind to ask Larry
 Phipps if maybe he could add a feature to LP-Bridge to feed the frequency
 data out one of the output virtual ports. The utility could then listen to
 that port and send the data to the KAT500. This is getting rather
 complicated and involves a number of developers working together. 
 
 AB2TC - Knut
 snip





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
LP-Bridge alone will not help.  While K3 Utility can obtain the 
frequency information through LP-Bridge, that information would only be 
sent out the same serial port back to the K3 - nothing gained. Remember 
that the KAT500 uses a different serial connection than does the K3, so 
that data would have to be sent to the KAT500 via a different serial 
port (not connected to the K3).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 3:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hello again,

A simpler way that would only involve changes to the KAT500 utility would to
have the utility talk to both the K3 and the KAT500. Even if the K3 is
already busy talking to a logging program, LP-Bridge unmodified can fix that
conflict. So now we have just created more work for Dick.

AB2TC - Knut

PS, Merry Christmas to all.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD

2012-12-24 Thread KD8NNU
What version of HRD are you using.  Pre 6.0 has a lot of CAT control 
problems.  I understand that Elecraft has loaned a K3 to the HRD staff to 
fix issues and I see significant improvement in the 6.0 beta release after 
playing with it.


Merry Christmas All!

~73
Don
KD8NNU
-.- -.. ---.. -. -. ..-
-Original Message- 
From: david Moes

Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 8:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD

Similar function with logger32 works fine on the K3.The mode will
change according to mode definitions in the bands and modes table and
sets mode when I click on a spot.  HRD uses a similar setup.  Is there
possibly an error in the HRD band layout definitions  as set in the
band manager? possibly entries for the 30s segments. Mode is set
based on band layouts and HRD the software sets rig mode,  so i doubt
it  has much to do with the K3 firmware.

If I am way off here,  I must apologies.   my answer assumes that this
is similar in V6 as in earlier versions.


On 12/23/2012 6:27 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
Hard for me to imagine how K3 firmware could cause this. Do you have 
another program with this capability you could try? You could also try 
sending FA (VFO A) commands directly to the K3 using the Command Tester 
screen in K3 Utility. See the Programmer's Reference for details.


73,
Wayne
N6KR



I have a really odd bug going on and I don't know if it is the K3 or Ham
Radio Deluxe. Whenever I click on a spot, everything works fine except 
when
it happens to be any frequency in the 30s - that is 3.530 to 3.539, 7.030 
to
7.039, etc.  Any other frequency in the CW band shows up on the K3 and 
the
mode is correctly changed to CW, except in the 30s, where it always 
shifts
to SSB, even though it is in the CW band.  Anyone know if that's an issue 
in

the K3 or in HRD? I suspect it is in HRD. Thanks.


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-24 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

I wish I had better drawing skills - a picture is worth more than a 1000
words. The utility would communicate  with the KAT500 as it does now plus an
additional connection to the K3 - either directly or through LP-Bridge.
Changes would be required to the utility and the KAT500 firmware, none to
LP-Bridge. But the question is if it's worth doing to save that one little
squirt of RF needed to tell the tuner the exact frequency.

AB2TC - Knut


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 LP-Bridge alone will not help.  While K3 Utility can obtain the 
 frequency information through LP-Bridge, that information would only be 
 sent out the same serial port back to the K3 - nothing gained. Remember 
 that the KAT500 uses a different serial connection than does the K3, so 
 that data would have to be sent to the KAT500 via a different serial 
 port (not connected to the K3).
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 snip





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD

2012-12-24 Thread Mike Flowers
I've logged a few bugs in HRD's bug tracking system about K3 rig control -
among them some problems with buttons not properly toggling functions, not
being highlighted as to state, the lack of a 6M and 2M band selection
button, etc.  

So far a couple of my bug reports have been modified to read 'Fix Build',
which I assume means they are going to fix it in the next build.

I doubt if HRD will ever be the 'complete' rig control solution for a K3 or
any other transceiver.   

- 73 de Mike, K6MKF, W6NAG, VP NCDXC, Conway Reef 2012, K3-P3 Addict,
Dachshund Rescue, Maui


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KD8NNU
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 12:23 PM
To: david Moes; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD

What version of HRD are you using.  Pre 6.0 has a lot of CAT control
problems.  I understand that Elecraft has loaned a K3 to the HRD staff to
fix issues and I see significant improvement in the 6.0 beta release after
playing with it.

Merry Christmas All!

~73
Don
KD8NNU
-.- -.. ---.. -. -. ..-
-Original Message-
From: david Moes
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 8:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD

Similar function with logger32 works fine on the K3.The mode will
change according to mode definitions in the bands and modes table and sets
mode when I click on a spot.  HRD uses a similar setup.  Is there possibly
an error in the HRD band layout definitions  as set in the
band manager? possibly entries for the 30s segments. Mode is set
based on band layouts and HRD the software sets rig mode,  so i doubt it
has much to do with the K3 firmware.

If I am way off here,  I must apologies.   my answer assumes that this
is similar in V6 as in earlier versions.


On 12/23/2012 6:27 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Hard for me to imagine how K3 firmware could cause this. Do you have 
 another program with this capability you could try? You could also try 
 sending FA (VFO A) commands directly to the K3 using the Command 
 Tester screen in K3 Utility. See the Programmer's Reference for details.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 I have a really odd bug going on and I don't know if it is the K3 or 
 Ham Radio Deluxe. Whenever I click on a spot, everything works fine 
 except when it happens to be any frequency in the 30s - that is 3.530 
 to 3.539, 7.030 to 7.039, etc.  Any other frequency in the CW band 
 shows up on the K3 and the mode is correctly changed to CW, except in 
 the 30s, where it always shifts to SSB, even though it is in the CW 
 band.  Anyone know if that's an issue in the K3 or in HRD? I suspect 
 it is in HRD. Thanks.

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[Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

2012-12-24 Thread Ray Spreadbury
Hi All

 

I have been building this K2 taking my time and I thought I was soldering
carefully.

All has gone well so far and I have got as far as the IF amplifier alignment
having completed VFO linearization etc with no problems and all readings
within spec. I followed the instructions for the IF alignment including
putting the PreAmp on but I could not hear the internally generated signal
at 7000kHz and there was only a very low audio output. 

With the PreAmp off (or even with the ATT on!) the audio is much louder and
I can then hear that signal and so I adjusted the slug in L34 for best
signal strength with low noise. I then carried out the 40 meter band pass
filter alignment with no problem so I am about to start the next phase -
Assembly, Part111.

 

Clearly there is something wrong with my PreAmp on 40 meters however. Does
anyone have any ideas of what I should look at or check?

 

Happy Christmas everyone!

 

73 Ray, G3XLG

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[Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation (including auxBus tradeoffs)

2012-12-24 Thread Wayne Burdick

ab2tc wrote:


...the question is if it's worth doing to save that one little
squirt of RF needed to tell the tuner the exact frequency.



At present the KAT500 works exactly the same as the KAT3:

(1) On any band change or antenna change, the last-used LC settings  
for that band and antenna are immediately recalled.


(2) Every time you transmit, the VFO frequency is determined (using RF  
sensing in the case of the KAT500). This is then converted to a  
segment number within the present band. The segment number is used to  
look up LC settings from the current segment or from the closest one  
for which LC settings are available. If the LC settings need to be  
changed, this is accomplished very quickly -- typically in 5 to 10 ms.


When we first wrote the KAT3 firmware, we tried having LC settings  
recalled as you tune, in receive mode. This was extremely distracting.  
It would be even more so with the KAT500 since it has much larger  
relays.


So what we're talking about now is whether it would be worth sending  
frequency data from the K3 to the KAT500--at the time of keying--over  
either the auxBus or the RS232 port. The answer, IMHO, is no. In  
either case it would take approximately the same amount of time to  
send the data as it would for the KAT500 to do RF sensing of the VFO  
frequency.


If someone has a better idea or would like to explain their operating  
scenario further, I'm all ears.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] K3 question, PSK and AM filter option from G4HUE

2012-12-24 Thread ANDY NEHAN
Happy Xmas guys and a healthy and prosperous New Year to all.

I am
a recent convert to the K3 with model 6990.
 
I am primarily a data mode operator (PSK31 etc. etc.) and my
K3 has the 2.8KHz and 250Hz 8 pole filters fitted and let me say its doing a
very fine job too. I use HRD version 5 which appears to force the sound card to
sample at 8KHz (in my case it’s the Signalink USB). My question is that I would
like to be able to simultaneously decode more than 2.8KHz (HRD is limited to 
3.9KHz) of the ham band at once.
I have thought about fitting the 6KHz AM filter (there not being a 4KHz filter
available). One part of me says that would work just fine and the other part of
me says “don’t be silly” there will be 3KHz of LSB and 3KHz of USB and it will
all go horribly wrong. I guess someone out there has tried and can tell me
which of my premonitions is correct?? As a suplementary will this be limited by 
any audio filtering in the K3, I seem to recall reading that the K3's audio is 
limited to a bandwidth of 4.2KHz but of course I can find the reference now!!

 
Thanks in advance guys.

Andy
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation (including auxBus tradeoffs)

2012-12-24 Thread ab2tc
Wayne wrote:

So what we're talking about now is whether it would be worth sending   
frequency data from the K3 to the KAT500--at the time of keying--over   
either the auxBus or the RS232 port. The answer, IMHO, is no. In   
either case it would take approximately the same amount of time to   
send the data as it would for the KAT500 to do RF sensing of the VFO   
frequency. 

Well, if at at key time the KAT500 already knew the new frequency it could
update the relays immediately without measuring the frequency. If this takes
5-10ms, the normal keytime to RF output time delay should prevent hot
switching of the relays. What this means in practice is that operators could
go right ahead with full power.

AB2TC - Knut





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[Elecraft] WT: KAT3

2012-12-24 Thread Alfredo Vélez WP3C
Hi everyone


I am looking for Elecraft KAT3 Internal ATU with 2nd Ant. Jack for the K3
Kit. Please let me know if someone have it on sale. Thanks and Merry Xmas!

 

Alfredo Vélez WP3C

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation (including auxBus tradeoffs)

2012-12-24 Thread Keith-K5ENS
During a contest and for many ops with headphones on you wouldn't hear the
relays.  Make it an option.

As for the timing if the KAT500 tunes as the receiver is tuned timing is
zero.

73,

Keith, XE3/K5ENS



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ray,

Check every component in the Pre-Amp circuit, including the relay.

Do you have the leads of T6 well stripped and tinned?  If so, check to 
see that the leads are in the correct holes.
After that look critically at the solder pads for those components 
around the preamp circuit - look at the schematic sheet 2 to identify 
those components.  You should see the solder flow out to an almost 
invisible edge on both the solder pad and the component lead.  It has 
been said that the esolder connection should look like a mountain, but 
not a volcano - if there is a ring around the lead or you do not have 
concave solder fillets, not enough heat was applied to the connection.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 3:51 PM, Ray Spreadbury wrote:

Hi All

  


I have been building this K2 taking my time and I thought I was soldering
carefully.

All has gone well so far and I have got as far as the IF amplifier alignment
having completed VFO linearization etc with no problems and all readings
within spec. I followed the instructions for the IF alignment including
putting the PreAmp on but I could not hear the internally generated signal
at 7000kHz and there was only a very low audio output.

With the PreAmp off (or even with the ATT on!) the audio is much louder and
I can then hear that signal and so I adjusted the slug in L34 for best
signal strength with low noise. I then carried out the 40 meter band pass
filter alignment with no problem so I am about to start the next phase -
Assembly, Part111.

  


Clearly there is something wrong with my PreAmp on 40 meters however. Does
anyone have any ideas of what I should look at or check?

  



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation (including auxBus tradeoffs)

2012-12-24 Thread Wayne Burdick

Keith-K5ENS wrote:

During a contest and for many ops with headphones on you wouldn't  
hear the

relays.  Make it an option.


It's a possibility. I'll look into it.

Wayne

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 question, PSK and AM filter option from G4HUE

2012-12-24 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV



My question is that I would like to be able to simultaneously decode
more than 2.8KHz (HRD is limited to 3.9KHz) of the ham band at once.
I have thought about fitting the 6KHz AM filter (there not being a
4KHz filter available). One part of me says that would work just
fine and the other part of me says “don’t be silly” there will be
3KHz of LSB and 3KHz of USB and it will all go horribly wrong. I
guess someone out there has tried and can tell me which of my
premonitions is correct??


I don't think your premonitions are correct abut things going terribly
wrong.  However, my feeling is why bother?  The K3 transmit audio in
DATA A rolls off significantly below roughly 300 Hz and above 3000 Hz
(maybe 200/2900 Hz it's been a while since I tested it) thus any RX
bandwidth above 3 KHz would be receive only.

The 2800 Hz/8 pole filter is about 2900 Hz or slightly wider at the
-6DB points in any case and will have significant response on the
filter skirts so you will certainly find response to 3.9 KHz if you
set the DSP to allow it (even though the response may be down a fair
bit).


As a suplementary will this be limited by any audio filtering in the
K3, I seem to recall reading that the K3's audio is limited to a
bandwidth of 4.2KHz but of course I can find the reference now!!


The DSP is limited to approximately 4.2 KHz output.  The DAC which
feeds the headphone and speaker outputs is followed by a lowpass
filter at 4.2 KHz to remove clock leakage and other artifacts.
Although the DAC which feeds the Line Out does not also include
a LPF, the DSP programming is the same including the 4.2 KHz
cutoff.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/24/2012 4:19 PM, ANDY NEHAN wrote:

Happy Xmas guys and a healthy and prosperous New Year to all.

I am
a recent convert to the K3 with model 6990.

I am primarily a data mode operator (PSK31 etc. etc.) and my
K3 has the 2.8KHz and 250Hz 8 pole filters fitted and let me say its doing a
very fine job too. I use HRD version 5 which appears to force the sound card to
sample at 8KHz (in my case it’s the Signalink USB). My question is that I would
like to be able to simultaneously decode more than 2.8KHz (HRD is limited to 
3.9KHz) of the ham band at once.
I have thought about fitting the 6KHz AM filter (there not being a 4KHz filter
available). One part of me says that would work just fine and the other part of
me says “don’t be silly” there will be 3KHz of LSB and 3KHz of USB and it will
all go horribly wrong. I guess someone out there has tried and can tell me
which of my premonitions is correct?? As a suplementary will this be limited by 
any audio filtering in the K3, I seem to recall reading that the K3's audio is 
limited to a bandwidth of 4.2KHz but of course I can find the reference now!!


Thanks in advance guys.

Andy
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

2012-12-24 Thread Vic K2VCO

I don't know about spray-on wax. I used to smear it with paste wax. Now I use 
open-wire line.

On 12/24/2012 11:24 AM, Tom H Childers wrote:

It seems like I've heard someone suggest that spray-on car wax does a
good job of making the ladder line real slippery.  I haven't tried it
yet, but I have two ladderline pieces on my NVIS loop. Twenty seven
feet of feed line and a ten foot stub at the opposite corner that
detune a bit in the rain.  However when the loop needs to be
re-matched I just hit the straight key here and the KAT500 finds a
match that works.  However I seldom run less than 100 watts.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member



On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:01:19 -0500, KD7YZ Bob kd...@denstarfarm.us
wrote:


On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send:
-Original Comment---

You don't have to keep that power level, Bob. You only need it if the KAT500
needs to retune, and then only for the retune cycle. For that you might QSY
a few KHz

On CW or SSB I could try that. With some of these WSJT-Like modes, it's
pretty important to be on the same freq u were on, within Hertz; And,
call me old, but with about 6 to 10 seconds before the other cycle
starts, there isn't a lot of time to QSY and retune.


to a clear spot although between five and twenty watts you are
only talking about a one S-unit difference in signal.

thanks. Although I was more worried about damaging the K3 than the
signal strength.



The next thing is to find out why your antenna is so sensitive to moisture.

hmmm, true.  Same when there is ice on it or snow. The other night in a
45mph wind, the 160m DP was going up and down about 30 feet it looked to
me. I use blocks and pulley to let it float  It was graceful to watch
but worrisome too.




--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] OT

2012-12-24 Thread Max Kempson
I felt I must post some good news after all the negative comments
about various US companies.
I have been using WSPR for over a year providing a beacon to G3JKF who
is developing small loop antennae. It of course ties up my K3 (#194)
and my computer.
I came across a reference to W5OLF and his WSPR-AXE transmitter kit
for 20 metres. I sent him an email and in about 5 minutes I received a
reply giving me instructions on how to buy his kit. On to PayPal and
that was completed in about the same time. Another email from Jay
asking for my call and Maidenhead square. I then received another
email with the manual attached. On Christmas eve I received the
package. It really can't get better than this can it?
Happy Christmas and a good 2013 to all Elecrafters.
Vy 73
Max/ZL4VV/G3JJT
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[Elecraft] Remote power on/off progress for K3

2012-12-24 Thread Chad Wasinger
Hi Group, Been searching the mailing list for a solution to turn on/off my K3 
remotely via Ham Radio Deluxe or another means. Looks like there has been some 
posts on using serial activity as a trigger to turn on the radio. Just 
wondering if there has been any progress in this area or if someone has a 
simple solution? I'm not sure how Kenwood does it on their ts-2000 but the 
remote on/off feature is pretty smooth via HRD. Suggestions? Thanks, Chad N0YK  
 
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[Elecraft] K3 with linear amp?

2012-12-24 Thread Scott James
I do not have my K3 yet. I have been reading about it.
I would like to use it with an Ameritron AL82 in semi QSK  (vox on).
I do not see an amp connection mentioned in  the manual

What is the hook up for a non QSK amp to the K3?

Tks very much

Gerry

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Ian,

I would suggest before suspecting anything in between the power supply,
check the voltage and the power supply terminals before tearing into
anything. You already know the transceiver shows load voltage under load.
If the voltage drops low at the supply then you have the culprit.  If not,
then go to the next connection and then measure it while transmitting. I had
a voltage drop that I didn't like with the supplied power supply cable and
replaced it with a 10 gauge high quality stranded cable.  I took out my
ASTRO Flight current/voltage wattage monitor which had lighter wiring,   I
ran my radio connection to my RigRunner and then measured.  Voltage and
output much improved.  You could start from the rear of the radio, work
toward the power supply, but you at least eliminate it.  I do see a
wiring/connector voltage drop at 20 amps draw from 13.5 volts through my
PowerGate battery backup to the RigRunner which shows a voltage on the Astro
Flight, which I use to monitor voltage coming off the rig runner itself, of
~12 v.  I get CW output at the K3 of 100 watts out as monitored by the W2.  

It also wouldn't hurt to disconnect reconnect all the Andersons if that is
what you are using.  Corrosion potential exists for non-soldered connections
especially in humid conditions.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian Kahn - Ham
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 12:52 PM
To: Lyle Johnson
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem appears
to be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank you to all
who offered guidance on getting this thing tested and troubleshot.

Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
 Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the 
 internal wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the 
 external wattmeter.

 If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is 
 reporting 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is 
 only 70 W (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna 
 wiring and chassis connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 
 wattmeter may need to be calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to 
 go to the menu and adjust it.  But only do this if you are CERTAIN 
 your external wattmeter is in fact accurate. Once you are certain the
 K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, re-run the Tx calibration.

 BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
 gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter 
 accuracy.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
 of this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
 over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is
 .78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the 
 internal power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load 
 only shows 70 watts out. The current and voltage readings look 
 normal, according to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual. But I'm still 
 concerned about a 30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other 
 suggestions?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with linear amp?

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gerry,

As with any amplifier ---

Connect the K3 output coax to the AL82 input coax, and connect the K3 
KEYOUT to the AL82 PTT IN (or whatever they call it).
Forget the ALC cable - instead, adjust the K3 power output to drive the 
AL82 to its full output (or whatever you want below that level), and use 
that as the maximum when driving the amplifier.  The amplifier 
instructions may tell you to connect an ALC line too.  Be aware that 
using the amp's ALC to control the drive power is a recipe for 
distortion no matter what the amplifier may be.  If you do choose to 
connect the ALC line, use it only as an amplifier fault control - adjust 
the drive power as I stated, and all will work fine.


A word on keying the amplifier (yes, even in semi QSK).  Ameritron 
amplifiers are famous for their slow open frame relays (there are QSK 
mods to change those relays and eliminate the problem), but the K3 semi 
QSK mode does not increase the time between KEYOUT and the onset of RF.  
(There is a K3 menu parameter to increase that timing).  Semi QSK does 
extend the cessation of RF keying to the time the K3 goes back to 
receive mode, and can eliminate relay chatter in the amplifier.


If you can extend the K3 TX DLY parameter sufficiently to assure that 
you will not hot switch the amplifier, then all will be fine, but if the 
delay time provided is not sufficient, you will be forced to use a 
footswitch (or other means) to activate keying of the amplifier before 
you start CW keying or SSB audio.


Note that I have not looked up the time from keying the amp to the relay 
settling, but that time is typically greater than the K3 8 ms. default 
KEYOUT to onset of RF timing.


In other words, semi QSK controls the training edge of the KEYOUT 
signal, but does not change the leading edge.  TX DLY will control the 
leading edge up to the limit of its range.


If you increase TX DLY significantly, listen to your signal to be 
certain that leading CW elements (or SSB syllables) are not truncated by 
the delay parameter.


73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/24/2012 6:21 PM, Scott James wrote:

I do not have my K3 yet. I have been reading about it.
I would like to use it with an Ameritron AL82 in semi QSK  (vox on).
I do not see an amp connection mentioned in  the manual

What is the hook up for a non QSK amp to the K3?

Tks very much

Gerry



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with linear amp?

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Change training below to trailing

73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/24/2012 7:08 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


In other words, semi QSK controls the training edge of the KEYOUT 
signal, but does not change the leading edge.  TX DLY will control the 
leading edge up to the limit of its range.




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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Ian,
As a bottom up reader, I see you have plenty of advice already.  I would
also like to point out in addition to what I posted below, I had an extra
set of fuses and a Red-Dee connect 45 amp distributor in line with the
battery backup/power supply and this alone added  1.5v drop.  With those
two items out of line, I now see the ~ 12v to my radio and I get out the
full 100 watts from the radio under load.  Those two items added an
additional  4 connections or 16 surfaces.  If I wanted almost zero drop, I
would take out the RigRunner and put power directly to the radio.  This
would drop it further.  

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill K9YEQ
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 5:26 PM
To: 'Ian Kahn - Ham'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

Ian,

I would suggest before suspecting anything in between the power supply,
check the voltage and the power supply terminals before tearing into
anything. You already know the transceiver shows load voltage under load.
If the voltage drops low at the supply then you have the culprit.  If not,
then go to the next connection and then measure it while transmitting. I had
a voltage drop that I didn't like with the supplied power supply cable and
replaced it with a 10 gauge high quality stranded cable.  I took out my
ASTRO Flight current/voltage wattage monitor which had lighter wiring,   I
ran my radio connection to my RigRunner and then measured.  Voltage and
output much improved.  You could start from the rear of the radio, work
toward the power supply, but you at least eliminate it.  I do see a
wiring/connector voltage drop at 20 amps draw from 13.5 volts through my
PowerGate battery backup to the RigRunner which shows a voltage on the Astro
Flight, which I use to monitor voltage coming off the rig runner itself, of
~12 v.  I get CW output at the K3 of 100 watts out as monitored by the W2.  

It also wouldn't hurt to disconnect reconnect all the Andersons if that is
what you are using.  Corrosion potential exists for non-soldered connections
especially in humid conditions.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian Kahn - Ham
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 12:52 PM
To: Lyle Johnson
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

So, it looks like I tracked down my low output issue.  The problem appears
to be with my West Mountain RigRunner, not my K3.  A big thank you to all
who offered guidance on getting this thing tested and troubleshot.

Thank you, 73, es Merry Christmas!

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 12/24/2012 12:22 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
 Might not be a 30W drop, but a matter of calibrations of both the 
 internal wattmeter (there is a menu item to adjust it) and the 
 external wattmeter.

 If the output power is set to 100W and the internal wattmeter is 
 reporting 100W, then the K3 is happy.  If in fact the output power is 
 only 70 W (double check if the ATU is bypassed or in line, antenna 
 wiring and chassis connections are tight int he k3 etc), then the K3 
 wattmeter may need to be calibrated.  If that is the case, you need to 
 go to the menu and adjust it.  But only do this if you are CERTAIN 
 your external wattmeter is in fact accurate. Once you are certain the
 K3 wattmeter is reporting within spec, re-run the Tx calibration.

 BTW I think a 2V drop is still excessive.  Might be long runs or light 
 gauge wire or ?  But that is a separate issue from the wattmeter 
 accuracy.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

 It is highly possible the culprit is my RigRunner, purchased in March 
 of this year. When I took it out of line, the voltage drop went from 
 over 4V on tx to under 2V (13.8V down to about 12V). Current draw is
 .78 to .82 amps on rx and 19.8 amps on tx. However, while the 
 internal power meter shows 100W, an external meter into a dummy load 
 only shows 70 watts out. The current and voltage readings look 
 normal, according to Rev. D10 of the owner's manual. But I'm still 
 concerned about a 30W drop at the output. Anyone have any other 
 suggestions?

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Despite the potential for voltage drop, I would not forget the fuse at 
the power supply end of the wire unless you are certain the power source 
has adequate overcurrent protection built in.  The blade type fuses with 
tight fitting sockets will cause very little voltage drop.  If the 
connection is not in the milliohm range, connection tightness is to blame.


That fuse is not intended to protect the equipment connected, but is 
instead to protect the wire from a short circuit.

Many power supplies do have adequate overcurrent protection - however ---

I hear of instances where this was not in place when the power source is 
a battery.  In the event of a short at the end of the power cable (or 
internal to the cable), a LOT of energy can be available which will have 
current sufficient to melt copper conductors of any size and spew molten 
metal all over the place - a personnel and a fire hazard.


Low voltage high current power sources can be just as maiming as high 
voltage supplies.  Please be safe!


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.  Keep all hams healthy and free of 
injury in the coming New Year.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2012 7:21 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

Ian,
As a bottom up reader, I see you have plenty of advice already.  I would
also like to point out in addition to what I posted below, I had an extra
set of fuses and a Red-Dee connect 45 amp distributor in line with the
battery backup/power supply and this alone added  1.5v drop.  With those
two items out of line, I now see the ~ 12v to my radio and I get out the
full 100 watts from the radio under load.  Those two items added an
additional  4 connections or 16 surfaces.  If I wanted almost zero drop, I
would take out the RigRunner and put power directly to the radio.  This
would drop it further.

73,
Bill



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote power on/off progress for K3

2012-12-24 Thread Jim Rhodes
You need to provide a way to ground pin 5 on the aux connector. I do this
with a remoterig interface. Any remote relay will work. This turns on the
rig then the rig stays on even if the closure is momentary. To turn it off
you need to send it the power down command via the command serial port. A
macro within HRD will do this easily. The DC out jack on the K3 can then
power a relay to turn on accessories.

On Mon, Dec 24, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Chad Wasinger chadwasin...@outlook.comwrote:

 Hi Group, Been searching the mailing list for a solution to turn on/off my
 K3 remotely via Ham Radio Deluxe or another means. Looks like there has
 been some posts on using serial activity as a trigger to turn on the radio.
 Just wondering if there has been any progress in this area or if someone
 has a simple solution? I'm not sure how Kenwood does it on their ts-2000
 but the remote on/off feature is pretty smooth via HRD. Suggestions?
 Thanks, Chad N0YK
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-- 
Jim K0XU
j...@rhodesend.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-24 Thread KGØUS
Hi Ted,

But given that you have to listen between CQs, that's a long time between 
CQs in each mode: 

CW-listen-phone-listen-CW-listen-phone... 

I think you'd be better off just calling a tighter cycle in one mode at a 
time, or using true SO2R with a second radio/antenna (if possible). Just my 
opinion.

I would mainly use the dueling CQ on mixed mode during the 10 meter contest
when it would be very slow in an attempt to generate some activity.
Also, I would like to transmit the wav file first, then immediately transmit
the CW using full QSK.  Using full QSK, I would hopefully be able to hear a
phone station coming back to me in between my CW dots and dashes.  If I
heard a phone station, I would simply hit the ESC key and work them.  I
would like a 1.5 second to 2 second pause after the CW transmission before
continuing with the phone wav file transmission.

This might be totally crazy, and it may cause undesirable interference
products, but I would like it if I could transmit both the wav CQ on phone
and the CW CQ pseudo simultaneously.  I know that the phone operators
listening to my CQ would hear the CW gaps but I think that it would still be
intelligible.  If this where possible then there would only be one gap for
listening.

Lastly,  I did setup my K3 with phone on the main receiver and CW on the 2nd
receiver.  I was hoping to search up and down the CW portion of the band in
the gaps between phone wav CQs.  However Writelog would not transmit in CW
after I found someone to work in the CW portion of the band.  I switched
focus to the second call entry window and pressed F4 (my callsign) and
nothing happened.

73,
Dave KG0US





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