Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Edward R Cole
Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large 
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
remove from packaging until you install them.


Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before 
I go too far.


K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Fred Smith
As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
 Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.


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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Randy Lake
If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy


On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 11:44 PM, Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us wrote:

 Willis 'Cookie' said:

  The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.

 unless I am missing something in Setup, I do not see how to tell the K3
 that I want manual dashes and string-dots. There is no setup for the
 keyer. So obviously if I short out the dash side, of the Vibroplex
 paddle, I get dashes. Many of them.

 And that is my question. How do I get a solid key-down, where the PTT IS
 activated, and RF flows?

 Seems right simple ,but my two choices here do not work.
 Use the keyer, push the PTT foot-switch, and I get a nice string of dots
 or dashes, as all of us expect.

 Push/HOLD the XMIT button and the PTT output of the K3 seems to not
 engage.

 Where, on the K3, would one pug in a regular old straight-key, and
 expect it to work as a regular old straight-key?

 The answer to that would solve my Sequencer problem for tuning w/o
 frying anything in the LNA chain.
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-- 
Randy Lake N1KWF
73 Gunn Rd.
Keene,NH
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[Elecraft] KAT500 Signal Isolation between antenna ports

2014-01-18 Thread Keith Onishi
I am experiencing poor signal isolation between antenna ports of KAT500.

ANT1: Open
ANT2: Open
ANT3: Antenna connected

On selecting ANT1 or ANT2, I hear signal from ANT3 although signal level is 
lower than ANT3.

ANT1: Antenna connected
ANT2: Open
ANT3: Open

On selecting ANT2 or ANT3, I hear signal from ANT3 although signal level is 
lower than ANT1.

ANT1: Antenna connected
ANT2: Open
ANT3: Antenna connected

On selecting ANT3, I still hear signal from ANT1 (increased noise level from 
ANT1).

I have not experienced such poor inter-port isolation with my ICOM TRX with 4 
antenna ports.

Any idea for improving inter-port isolation?

73 de JH3SIF, Keith




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[Elecraft] How do I put KX3 into transmit with JT65-HF

2014-01-18 Thread Ariel Jacala
I am sure I am missing something simple here

I can't get the KX3 into transmit using the software for JT65-HF.  I can get 
the KX3 to transmit using the KX3Util program in PSK RTTY and CW.  This time I 
have KX3Util not running just JT65-HF.  I am decoding and reading JT65 signals 
well enough but no transmit.

My setup
Signalink USB with KX3 specific jumper module
TRRS Cable in Mic Jack
Spkr cable connected between SLUSB and KX3 Speaker Jack
I have LPBridge Running to enable Virtual COM Port 99 for SDR display and 
additional com ports 5, 6 and 11 are open.  LPBridge itself is on physical port 
COM3

Any help is appreciated

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I put KX3 into transmit with JT65-HF

2014-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ariel,

Do you have the KX3 set to DATA A mode?  Do you have 4 to 5 bars 
indicated on the ALC meter?
Is the KX3 going into transmit?  If you are trying to use PTT from the 
Signalink, do you have the KX3 set to use PTT?  VOX is also usable, but 
you must get enough audio into the KX3 to activate it.


You will be using audio tones out of the SignaLink.  The KX3 Utility 
does not use the audio path, so that does not compare.


You must have the Signalink set for mic level output.  Set the soundcard 
sliders in the computer to about 2/3 of full scale.  Then start out with 
the mic gain set at a low value and bring it up until you have 4 bars 
solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing.


Do your adjustments with a dummy load connected so you don't bother your 
fellow hams.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2014 7:59 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

I am sure I am missing something simple here

I can't get the KX3 into transmit using the software for JT65-HF.  I can get 
the KX3 to transmit using the KX3Util program in PSK RTTY and CW.  This time I 
have KX3Util not running just JT65-HF.  I am decoding and reading JT65 signals 
well enough but no transmit.

My setup
Signalink USB with KX3 specific jumper module
TRRS Cable in Mic Jack
Spkr cable connected between SLUSB and KX3 Speaker Jack
I have LPBridge Running to enable Virtual COM Port 99 for SDR display and 
additional com ports 5, 6 and 11 are open.  LPBridge itself is on physical port 
COM3




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[Elecraft] K3: Question on Replacing the Front Panel 28 and 5 Pin Connectors; Need the Elecraft Instructions

2014-01-18 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi All,

Last fall I replaced the PA connectors in my K3 
with the Elecraft gold plated pin connectors that 
they recommend.


Recently I have also acquired the gold replacement 
28 and 5 pin connectors for the front panel of my 
early K3.


But I have misplaced the PDF instructions that 
Elecraft sent or e-mailed me with the pins.


Can anyone e-mail that PDF instruction sheet or 
provide a URL link to it?


I cannot find it on the Elecraft site.

I would be grateful for any assistance.

73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Chester Alderman
ARE YOU SERIOUS



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Randy Lake
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 6:56 AM
To: Bob KD7YZ
Cc: K3 List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external
6m amp?

If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy



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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Ken G Kopp
Randy, you are indeed mistaken!!

73

K0PP
On Jan 18, 2014 4:56 AM, Randy Lake randyn1...@gmail.com wrote:

 If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
 pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
 Randy


 On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 11:44 PM, Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us wrote:

  Willis 'Cookie' said:
 
   The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.
 
  unless I am missing something in Setup, I do not see how to tell the K3
  that I want manual dashes and string-dots. There is no setup for the
  keyer. So obviously if I short out the dash side, of the Vibroplex
  paddle, I get dashes. Many of them.
 
  And that is my question. How do I get a solid key-down, where the PTT IS
  activated, and RF flows?
 
  Seems right simple ,but my two choices here do not work.
  Use the keyer, push the PTT foot-switch, and I get a nice string of dots
  or dashes, as all of us expect.
 
  Push/HOLD the XMIT button and the PTT output of the K3 seems to not
  engage.
 
  Where, on the K3, would one pug in a regular old straight-key, and
  expect it to work as a regular old straight-key?
 
  The answer to that would solve my Sequencer problem for tuning w/o
  frying anything in the LNA chain.
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 --
 Randy Lake N1KWF
 73 Gunn Rd.
 Keene,NH
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Bob KD7YZ


On 1/17/2014 23:53, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
 My K3 back panel has two 1/4 inch key jacks, one for a paddle, one for a 
 straight key.  I plug a paddle into one, and the keying line from my computer 
 into the other.  I have a vibroplex bug and plan to put a 1/4 inch mono Y 
 adapter plug into the straight key socket. 

OK, this was helpful Dick. And Merv K9FD reminding me to RTFM. But I
believe what he said was re-re-read the page 17 and rear-apron
drawings/words .. as that page WAS op and does have a ot of dirty
fingerprints of mine.

By re-arraigning the two outputs-to-PTT, that I see on the K3,
as-well-as removing a superfluous Key-Out I used to go down to the
KAT500, I was able to insert my straight key in KEY, use it and have
the correct K3 PTT-out places actually ALL come on and ALL key the
sequencer chain.

It was NOT the case before.

Before, a foot switch press, a cw-key press and a command to transmit
from the JT65 soundcard input did not all have the same effect on
allowing the sequencer to make the decision.

thanks again.
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread John K9UWA
Yes Randy is correct. The Tube dealers LOVE people who tune up with a 
Brick on the Key. Kills your Tubes much faster. Plus you get a much more 
accurate tuneup by sending dots than you do with a solid tone. It duplicates 
your actual transmissions using dots rather than solid tone. 
Its really easy to do guys. Just set your coffee cup against the paddles 
making dots and turn the knobs on your amp.

John k9uwa


 If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
 pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
 Randy
 
John Goller, K9UWA  Jean Goller, N9PXF 
Antique Radio Restorations
k9...@arrl.net
Visit our Web Site at:
http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
4836 Ranch Road
Leo, IN 46765
USA
1-260-637-6426


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
http://www.avast.com

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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Chester Alderman

John ---

I suggest you send this 'quality' information quickly to RF Concepts and
tell them they better take that brick off of the key to their amps that they
demo at hamfest.

This thread ranks right up there with 'where do you plug a straight key into
a K3?'.

W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John K9UWA
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 8:23 AM
To: K3 List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external
6m amp?

Yes Randy is correct. The Tube dealers LOVE people who tune up with a Brick
on the Key. Kills your Tubes much faster. Plus you get a much more accurate
tuneup by sending dots than you do with a solid tone. It duplicates your
actual transmissions using dots rather than solid tone. 
Its really easy to do guys. Just set your coffee cup against the paddles
making dots and turn the knobs on your amp.

John k9uwa


 If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is 
 with a pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
 Randy
 
John Goller, K9UWA  Jean Goller, N9PXF Antique Radio Restorations
k9...@arrl.net Visit our Web Site at:
http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
4836 Ranch Road
Leo, IN 46765
USA
1-260-637-6426



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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread WILLIS COOKE
What the man said was that he was going to plug in a bug.  A bug AKA 
semi-automatic key does not make a string of dahs, just automatic dots.  The 
dah position of the finger piece makes dashes manually like a straight key 
except that you push it side ways instead of down.  A proficient operator can 
change from using the dot motion to the right and the dah motion to the left to 
using the dah paddle as a straight key without you noticing.  This is a great 
way to QRS to a slow speed for a new operator without changing keys.  If you 
are using paddles and the internal keyer, you plug it in to the paddle jack.  
The K3 has two jacks instead of the one jack and a switch to turn the keyer on 
and off.  That is what you are missing.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us
To: K3 List elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m 
amp?
 

Willis 'Cookie' said:

 The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.

unless I am missing something in Setup, I do not see how to tell the K3
that I want manual dashes and string-dots. There is no setup for the
keyer. So obviously if I short out the dash side, of the Vibroplex
paddle, I get dashes. Many of them.

And that is my question. How do I get a solid key-down, where the PTT IS
activated, and RF flows?

Seems right simple ,but my two choices here do not work.
Use the keyer, push the PTT foot-switch, and I get a nice string of dots
or dashes, as all of us expect.

Push/HOLD the XMIT button and the PTT output of the K3 seems to not
engage.

Where, on the K3, would one pug in a regular old straight-key, and
expect it to work as a regular old straight-key?

The answer to that would solve my Sequencer problem for tuning w/o
frying anything in the LNA chain.
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[Elecraft] K3: Need the Instruction PDF for Replacing the Front Panel 28 and 5 Pin Connector with Gold Plated Substitutes

2014-01-18 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hello Elecraft Support,

Last fall I replaced the PA connectors in my K3 with the Elecraft gold plated 
pin connectors. Went very well.

Recently I have also acquired from Elecraft the gold replacement 28 and 5 pin 
connectors for the front panel of my early K3 #371.

But I have misplaced the PDF instructions that were sent or e-mailed me with 
the new pins.

Can you please provide me with the PDF instruction sheet?

I cannot find it on the Elecraft site.

I would be grateful for any assistance.

73 de N1LQ-Dave

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[Elecraft] Fwd: K3: Need the Instruction PDF for Replacing the Front Panel 28 and 5 Pin Connector with Gold Plated Substitutes

2014-01-18 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast


Sorry for the duplicate bandwidth.

I sent it to the wrong e-mail address.

N1LQ

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver 
and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you 
bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them 
with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the 
instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If 
you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you 
still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything 
read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the 
instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each 
step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug 
and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When 
assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it 
a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and 
forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is 
important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 

Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Signal Isolation between antenna ports

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Hi Keith – Take a look at the measured KAT500 isolation numbers in the “Product 
Reviews” section of my website at www.ad5x.com.  The isolation varies based on 
the ports chosen, and the frequency band.  As an example, the isolation on 20 
meters has a worst-case value of 36dB between ports 2-3 (when 3 is selected), 
and a best case value of 65dB between ports 3-1 with port 1 selected.  You 
might want to select the antennas and ports to maximize isolation.  As an 
example, port 1-2 isolation is much worse than port 1-3 isolation.  So I put my 
6-meter beam on port 2, and my two HF antennas on ports 1 and 3.

You can easily hear signals that are very far down from a desired signal.  
Measurements made in my old telecom days indicated that you can usually hear 
tones as low as 90dB down!  And, of course, if the signal on the unselected 
antenna is hotter than on the selected antenna, things can sound worse.

Phil – AD5X

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Matt Zilmer
More advice:

Be sure you're using the correct hardware (especially screws) by
measuring them as suggested in the assembly manual.  We get a
significant number of kits returned with chassis or other short
circuits due to long  wrong screws being used.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 08:06:23 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that 
you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep 
them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read 
the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back. 
 If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you 
still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything 
read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the 
instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand 
each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right 
plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  
When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can 
move it a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
 and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step 
 is important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129
Skype: matt.zilmer

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Tighe Kuykendall
Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've 
found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside 
from good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm 
looking and makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without 
having to move, rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.


73, Tighe


--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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[Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Bennett
I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share the 
KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 2-position 
coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 147 of KE7X's 
KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, I've recently 
noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once in a while, I go 
to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around to the back panel 
rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the front panel power on 
button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able to track it down to a 
particular sequence of operating events that precedes it. In the past 3-4 days, 
this has happened maybe three times.

Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.

Jim / W6JHB
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[Elecraft] Remote K3/0 and 2WIRE 3801HGV modem/firewall

2014-01-18 Thread Bill Hammond
Hi, anyone out there successful in punching holes in the 2WIRE firewall for 
Remote operation?

The user interface for browser access seems to me to be lacking.  Does anyone 
have the secret sauce?? The browser interface also wants the application type 
from a pull down menu.

What are the two 11000, 12000 protocols?  The 5060 is SIP. 

Here is what is needed:
There are 3 ports in total that absolutely need to be forwarded. 
I will provide the details below.
12000 (UDP)
11000 (UDP)
5060 (TCP)  (UDP)

Thanks in advance for any information.

73,
Bill


Bill Hammond
wham...@aol.com
Bill Hammond-AK5X
a...@mac.com
a...@sbcglobal.net
K3 #69
P3 #817
KPA500 # 149
KAT500 # 290
K2/100 #4637
K1 #2033
KX1 #1023
KX3 #583
K3/0 #200
W2
T1

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[Elecraft] KPA500 DC

2014-01-18 Thread Tighe Kuykendall
With all of the recent talk of solar, I've made the move away from my 
trusty Astron power supply.  But the KPA500 remains...


I did a little searching but couldn't find anything other than a couple 
of posts from Oct which looked to be about using an inverter to power 
the KPA but nothing with real results.


Anyone have experiences running a KPA500 from batteries?

73, Tighe


--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 comparison

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Lowman
I'm sure that a lot of us would like to see the results of that 
comparison, George.


What we do know is that the Argonaut VI has a higher current demand on 
receive, and is missing some bands.
The Argonaut should have a very good receiver, like the Eagle, and 
excellent break-in CW; a Ten-Tec legend.
But an actual A/B comparison would be useful.  The human ear can't 
detect everything that laboratory instruments can.


After much wringing of the hands over the missing bands, I realized that 
I have an Argonaut VI+ so to speak.

All I have to do is turn my Eagle down to 5w.  :-)

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 1/17/2014 8:10 PM, george fritkin wrote:

I have a KX3 and the new Ten Tec Argonaught Vl.  I would like to share notes 
with any body that has both

Thanks,

George, W6GF



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
I don't know much about hooking multiple transceivers to the KPA500 (I only 
have the K3/KPA500 mix) but it would not surprise me to learn if the problem 
might be connected with some status check or something that is expected from 
the K3 if the K3 is indeed connected or maybe had been connected.  A complete 
power cycle would clear that kind of thing.

Is the KPA500 really designed to work with multiple inputs even if they are 
switched?  I would be interested in knowing since I also have a KX3.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:

 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share 
 the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 
 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 
 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, 
 I've recently noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once 
 in a while, I go to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around 
 to the back panel rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the 
 front panel power on button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able 
 to track it down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes 
 it. In the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
 resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
 Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become worn 
over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges -- any 
rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will result 
in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and clean 
up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
 Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that 
 you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep 
 them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read 
 the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to 
 back.  If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  
 If you still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do 
 anything read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  
 Follow the instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you 
 understand each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you 
 have the right plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the 
 plug fully.  When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws 
 so you can move it a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
 and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step 
 is important and must be done correctly.
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 
 From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
 Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
 properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
 73,
 Carl Yaffey  K8NU
 Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
 recording studio.
 cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
 http://www.carl-yaffey.com
 http://www.grassahol.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts 
such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like 
the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 
there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the 
printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying 
lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and 
use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.

If anyone has a better solution to this problem -- let me know.  Eye sight only 
gets worse, it rarely gets better.  Electronic parts only get smaller, they 
rarely get larger.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Tighe Kuykendall t...@nk4i.com wrote:

 Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've 
 found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside from 
 good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm looking and 
 makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without having to move, 
 rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.
 
 73, Tighe
 
 
 -- 
 Tighe Kuykendall
 NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
 ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Cady, Fred
I have seen that happen with the KPA thought at one time is was associated with 
something happening on the AUXBUS - like the KAT not being powered up or 
something. I think maybe there was a firmware upgrade for the KPA and/or KAT 
that might have fixed it. Are you using the latest firmware?

Glad the KX3 is working ok to drive the KPA.  I just fired up the KXPA amp here 
and am going to play with it and the KPA also.


Fred Cady
fcady at ieee dot org

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
 boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bennett
 Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:26 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can
 share the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy
 Daiwa 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the
 diagram on page 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to
 work very well. However, I've recently noticed a very occasional
 anomaly with the KPA500. Every once in a while, I go to power it on and
 nothing happens. I have to reach around to the back panel rocker
 switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the front panel power on
 button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able to track it
 down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes it. In
 the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.

 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how
 to resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.

 Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My 
solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed 
for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at 
Walmart.


Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts 
such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like 
the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 
there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the 
printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying 
lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and 
use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote K3/0 and 2WIRE 3801HGV modem/firewall

2014-01-18 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
It's not so much lacking as it is poorly arranged and almost terminally 
under-documented.


11000 and 12000 will need to be user-defined.  You'll find add a new 
user defined application at the bottom of the Firewall/Applications page.


You'll need to define both ports separately, you only need to select 
UDP and fill in the port.  Leave the application as - Call them 
something like Remote-1 and Remote-2.


As you noted, port 5060 is SIP, and there are probably several choices 
from the known applications that do SIP, but I think it's easier to 
define Remote-3 with port 5060 and select SIP on the Application Type 
pull-down.


Once you've defined them, you'll need to pick the computer (your 
RemoteRig device) by name, and then set it up for each of your 
applications (Remote-1, Remote-2 and Remote-3).


DMZplus mode would probably work, but I don't know how hardened the 
RemoteRig box might be, so I'm reluctant to say go for it.


Note: I don't own a RemoteRig, but I am blessed with one of these 
wonderful 2WIRE devices from U-Verse.  It isn't the absolute worst 
router I've ever seen in two decades of running a network, but it 
belongs on the PITA list.


-- Lynn

On 1/18/2014 9:30 AM, Bill Hammond wrote:

Hi, anyone out there successful in punching holes in the 2WIRE firewall for 
Remote operation?

The user interface for browser access seems to me to be lacking.  Does anyone 
have the secret sauce?? The browser interface also wants the application type 
from a pull down menu.

What are the two 11000, 12000 protocols?  The 5060 is SIP.

Here is what is needed:
There are 3 ports in total that absolutely need to be forwarded.
I will provide the details below.
12000 (UDP)
11000 (UDP)
5060 (TCP)  (UDP)

Thanks in advance for any information.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Gregory
I think your on the right track with the kat500 being powerex up first. The
other thing that can cause this is if you try to use the kpa500 on 27mhz.
When field testing, I tried it and the kpa500 does a full fault and
requires power down at the rear, then power up to rset. The FW does a nice
job of preventing use on illegal sections of the spectrum such as this.
MARS frequencies are fine though.
Elecraft have done a great job on the kpa500, some of the tests I have done
would have killed a lesser amplifiergrin

73

Gary
On 19/01/2014 4:27 AM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:

 I have seen that happen with the KPA thought at one time is was associated
 with something happening on the AUXBUS - like the KAT not being powered up
 or something. I think maybe there was a firmware upgrade for the KPA and/or
 KAT that might have fixed it. Are you using the latest firmware?

 Glad the KX3 is working ok to drive the KPA.  I just fired up the KXPA amp
 here and am going to play with it and the KPA also.


 Fred Cady
 fcady at ieee dot org

  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
  boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bennett
  Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:26 AM
  To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
  Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On
 
  I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can
  share the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy
  Daiwa 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the
  diagram on page 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to
  work very well. However, I've recently noticed a very occasional
  anomaly with the KPA500. Every once in a while, I go to power it on and
  nothing happens. I have to reach around to the back panel rocker
  switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the front panel power on
  button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able to track it
  down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes it. In
  the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
  Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how
  to resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
  Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any service 
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS (Japanese 
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different from the 
Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are usually 
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the cross 
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and Japanese 
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.


73, Charlie k3ICH



- Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com

To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become 
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges --  
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will 
result in stripped screw heads more often.


Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and 
clean up those old screwdrivers.


73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers 
that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if 
not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a 
static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction 
manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again 
and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help 
until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so 
you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the 
manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to 
plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use 
as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling 
something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a 
little then be sure to
tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every 
step is important and must be done correctly.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.

73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread PA2V
Hi Carl.
I am a new K3 owner too.
Finished my K3 a month ago (SN7819).
Assembling the kit is fun. As stated before: Take your time.
I used all anti-static and good tools.  Used a wrist strap and anti-static
mat.
The mat and my wrist strap were grounded to the house safety earth.
All boards and components are very well indicated and the manuals are clear.
Except the Operating manual. This feels a bit minimal. 
But don't worry. The support from Elecraft is quite okay.
QRP-project in Germany, Elecraft's representative in Europe did very well.
I also experienced fast response from Elecraft USA too. 
No problem to make it a proper job. Read, read and re-read the manuals.
And when you finally can run the rig, be prepared to have a long and
pleasant learning curve.
73, Peter PA2V



Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 01:07:58 -0900
From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: 201401181007.s0ia7whn036...@huffman.acsalaska.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large 
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
remove from packaging until you install them.

Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before 
I go too far.

K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com



--

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 04:43:18 -0600
From: Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com,   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: 001701cf143a$19e9dfd0$4dbd9f70$@com
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
 Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Jack Brindle
Jim, the key question is what version of firmware is in your KPA500. This is 
viewable in the menu, under the FIRMWARE selection.

Also, what is your RADIO selection in the KPA when using it with the KX3?

If you do not have the latest firmware, I would advise you to upgrade. There 
was a bug fix that affected this some time back.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:
 
 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share 
 the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 
 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 
 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, 
 I've recently noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once 
 in a while, I go to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around 
 to the back panel rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the 
 front panel power on button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able 
 to track it down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes 
 it. In the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
 resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
 Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Bennett
Other than this occasional hiccup, yes. If you've got Fred's KX3 book, check 
out pages 146-147, especially figure 9.17 - this is exactly how I've got mine 
cabled up. 

Last night was a good example of why I wanted to have this flexibility. I was 
listening on 160 meter CW with the KX3 and heard W1AW/0 in Nebraska calling CQ. 
I cranked up the KX3 power to a whopping 12 watts and called him several times. 
Not so much as a QRZ did I get. I just got a CQ in my face! So, rather than 
turn on the K3, switch things over and tune in the station with the K3, I 
simply powered up the KPA500, set the KX3 to 9 watts (170 watts out on the 
KPA500), called him again and this time got him on the first call. I could have 
been there a very long time running 12 watts! Of course if I had a great 160 
antenna, 12 watts probably would have been OK. But I live in a CCR/HOA 
neighborhood and have a stealthy Inverted L semi-hidden in the redwood trees 
that only has about 25-30 feet of vertical run.

Jim
On   Saturday, Jan 18, 2014, at  Saturday, 9:57 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 
 Is the KPA500 really designed to work with multiple inputs even if they are 
 switched?  I would be interested in knowing since I also have a KX3.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:
 
 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share 
 the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 
 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 
 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, 
 I've recently noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once 
 in a while, I go to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around 
 to the back panel rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the 
 front panel power on button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been 
 able to track it down to a particular sequence of operating events that 
 precedes it. In the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
 resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
 Jim / W6JHB

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Bennett
Cool - I just checked - 1.33 was available and I have 1.23; am in the process 
of upgrading to the latest firmware as I type this. Will keep an eye on the 
amp's behavior over the next week or so and also try to document any strange 
procedures I've taken that might cause it.

Jim


On   Saturday, Jan 18, 2014, at  Saturday, 10:26 AM, Cady, Fred wrote:

 I have seen that happen with the KPA thought at one time is was associated 
 with something happening on the AUXBUS - like the KAT not being powered up or 
 something. I think maybe there was a firmware upgrade for the KPA and/or KAT 
 that might have fixed it. Are you using the latest firmware?
 
 Glad the KX3 is working ok to drive the KPA.  I just fired up the KXPA amp 
 here and am going to play with it and the KPA also.
 
 
 Fred Cady
 fcady at ieee dot org
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
 boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bennett
 Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:26 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On
 
 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can
 share the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy
 Daiwa 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the
 diagram on page 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to
 work very well. However, I've recently noticed a very occasional
 anomaly with the KPA500. Every once in a while, I go to power it on and
 nothing happens. I have to reach around to the back panel rocker
 switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the front panel power on
 button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able to track it
 down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes it. In
 the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how
 to resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
 Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Wes (N7WS)

You're mistaken.  Unless of course, you're using four 6LQ6s to get 1 KW PEP.

On 1/18/2014 4:56 AM, Randy Lake wrote:

If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
Randy






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[Elecraft] K3 - PA Temp Unstable

2014-01-18 Thread paulb

Hi  folks

K3 here owned for about 4 years.
Latest firmware.
Last couple of days at power up the PA Temp is unstable.
LCD flicks between 27 and 40 degs C. 
TX and RX same reading.
Noticed the rear fans starting and stopping
Reloaded firmware no change.
Before lifting the hood anyone got a pointer what to
check ?


thanks

cheers

Paul b
zl1ajy





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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

2014-01-18 Thread Walter Underwood
This seems like a kluge to reduce average power. It would work if you are 
manually tuning a tube radio with analog meters, where the meters would 
integrate the pulsed signal. Sort of.

It is crazy for digital metering, SWR metering, or an autotuner. In those 
cases, the instruments are trying to get a measurement with about 10 
milliseconds of carrier (one dit at 60 wpm, if I got the math right).

Reducing drive power for tuning is a lot better idea, and works for all 
situations.

With the K3 (or KX3), you can use the front-panel TUNE function and even set 
reduced drive with the TUNE Power Level option.

wunder
K6WRU

On Jan 18, 2014, at 5:23 AM, John K9UWA j...@johnjeanantiqueradio.com wrote:

 Yes Randy is correct. The Tube dealers LOVE people who tune up with a 
 Brick on the Key. Kills your Tubes much faster. Plus you get a much more 
 accurate tuneup by sending dots than you do with a solid tone. It duplicates 
 your actual transmissions using dots rather than solid tone. 
 Its really easy to do guys. Just set your coffee cup against the paddles 
 making dots and turn the knobs on your amp.
 
 John k9uwa
 
 
 If I am not mistaken I think the proper way of tuning the amp is with a
 pulser or sending a string of dits at say 60wpm not a solid tone.
 Randy
 
 John Goller, K9UWA  Jean Goller, N9PXF 
 Antique Radio Restorations
 k9...@arrl.net
 Visit our Web Site at:
 http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
 4836 Ranch Road
 Leo, IN 46765
 USA
 1-260-637-6426
 
 
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 This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
 protection is active.
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wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread bill conkling
Yes I have noticed this.  No idea what brings it on.

...bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:

I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share 
the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 
2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 
147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, 
I've recently noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once in 
a while, I go to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around to 
the back panel rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the front 
panel power on button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been able to 
track it down to a particular sequence of operating events that precedes it. 
In the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.

Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.

Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power On

2014-01-18 Thread Jack Brindle
It comes from running firmware in the KPA that has a bug that was fixed some 
time ago. Upgrade to the latest firmware (V1.33 at present) and it should go 
away.

73!

Jack Brindle, W6FB

On Jan 18, 2014, at 2:17 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 Yes I have noticed this.  No idea what brings it on.
 
 ...bill nr4c
 
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
 
 Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote:
 
 I recently got a KX3 and have set up my station such that the KX3 can share 
 the KPA500, KAT500, and several antennas by using a pretty beefy Daiwa 
 2-position coax switch. The station is set up just like the diagram on page 
 147 of KE7X's KX3 book. This configuration seems to work very well. However, 
 I've recently noticed a very occasional anomaly with the KPA500. Every once 
 in a while, I go to power it on and nothing happens. I have to reach around 
 to the back panel rocker switch, turn it Off and then back on. Then, the 
 front panel power on button brings the amp to life. So far I've not been 
 able to track it down to a particular sequence of operating events that 
 precedes it. In the past 3-4 days, this has happened maybe three times.
 
 Anyone else have this happen, and if so (1) what causes it, and (2) how to 
 resolve it? Not a big deal, but I'd like to know what's going on.
 
 Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Smith
Everything Ed said; Check.

I used 18 egg, egg cartons to hold parts and cut card stock in 
strips, labelled them according to small part  then taped them in 
the individual egg holders with those parts in the egg socket. 
Didn't knock over like cups would have and kept everything separate 
till the end. No spare parts when I was done.

Gary
KA1J

 P.S.; Good choice, the K3!


 Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
 list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
 looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large
 Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
 dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
 remove from packaging until you install them.
 
 Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
 usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
 instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
 pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
 diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before
 I go too far.
 
 K3/10 sn 4340
 KX3 sn 475
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
  Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
  dubus...@gmail.com
 
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[Elecraft] KPA500 Died

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Ferdinand
Well, I’m hat in hand looking for some advice.  Thanks in advance.

Configuration:  K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 to a wire.  AUX cable used for control.

Symptom:  K3/KAT500 loads fine into the wire with amp either off or in standby. 
 SWR goes high and no power out when amp is online.

Possibly interesting facts:

1.   Was toying with the NAQP today.  Seemed ok at the time.  Total failure as 
I was trying to make a 6 meter VHF contest Q.
2.   Numerous faults in the fault table for excessive dissipation.  Fault code 
is 11, yet no fault seen on the amp.  News to me.
3.   I’m totally clueless as to how to interpret the fault table timestamp as 
to date and time, other than most recent at top
4.   Amp is dead on all bands, 160-6  (no power out, presents high swr to k3, 
relay heard in KAT500 at keying speed)
5.   Tried a full power-off (plug pulled) with no difference
6.   K3 gets the On/Off signal from the amp.
7.   The amp was built by me from the kit and has provided good service for 
months
8.   Firmware 1.33 on the amp.


There’s a very nice snowdrift out back that I’m considering throwing it into.


Tnx for any suggestions.  Now back to the schematic.  :-(

73/Gary W2CS





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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Smith
Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is 
the only screwdriver to use on those screws.  As Charlie said, they 
are ID'd by the dot on the head.

Gary
KA1J

 If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
 service 
 work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
 (Japanese 
 Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
 from the 
 Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
 usually 
 identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the
 cross 
 slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
 Japanese 
 imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
 To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
 ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...
 
 And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
 become 
 worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
 edges --  
 any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
 screwdrivers) will 
 result in stripped screw heads more often.
 
 Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
 and 
 clean up those old screwdrivers.
 
 73 phil K7PEH
 
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 
  Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips
 Screw 
  Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap
 screwdrivers 
  that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them
 away, if 
  not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for. 
 Buy a 
  static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the
 construction 
  manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read
 them again 
  and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get
 help 
  until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part
 again so 
  you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order
 the 
  manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you
 need to 
  plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket
 then use 
  as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
  something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move
 it a 
  little then be sure to
  tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be
 careful 
  and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but
 every 
  step is important and must be done correctly.
 
  Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
  K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
  
  From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
  Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it
 together 
  properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
  73,
  Carl Yaffey  K8NU
  Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
  recording studio.
  cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
  614 268 6353, Columbus OH
  http://www.carl-yaffey.com
  http://www.grassahol.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Died

2014-01-18 Thread Jack Brindle
Ooh. Well, I hope it wasn’t punishment for “bending” the NAQP rules:
No greater than 100 W. Use of external amplifiers capable of more than 100 W 
output is not allowed.
And yes, my KPA is not running while I play in NAQP...

OK, so please send me a copy of the fault table for evaluation. We will see 
what we can do, but I suspect we will need to get you in touch with CS on 
Monday.
I am sure I will hav emote questions for you after I go through the file.

Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering

On Jan 18, 2014, at 3:59 PM, Gary Ferdinand alapa...@taconic.net wrote:

 Well, I’m hat in hand looking for some advice.  Thanks in advance.
 
 Configuration:  K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 to a wire.  AUX cable used for control.
 
 Symptom:  K3/KAT500 loads fine into the wire with amp either off or in 
 standby.  SWR goes high and no power out when amp is online.
 
 Possibly interesting facts:
 
 1.   Was toying with the NAQP today.  Seemed ok at the time.  Total failure 
 as I was trying to make a 6 meter VHF contest Q.
 2.   Numerous faults in the fault table for excessive dissipation.  Fault 
 code is 11, yet no fault seen on the amp.  News to me.
 3.   I’m totally clueless as to how to interpret the fault table timestamp as 
 to date and time, other than most recent at top
 4.   Amp is dead on all bands, 160-6  (no power out, presents high swr to k3, 
 relay heard in KAT500 at keying speed)
 5.   Tried a full power-off (plug pulled) with no difference
 6.   K3 gets the On/Off signal from the amp.
 7.   The amp was built by me from the kit and has provided good service for 
 months
 8.   Firmware 1.33 on the amp.
 
 
 There’s a very nice snowdrift out back that I’m considering throwing it into.
 
 
 Tnx for any suggestions.  Now back to the schematic.  :-(
 
 73/Gary W2CS
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Died

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Ferdinand
OK Jack.

I believe in having fun in a contest.  For me, antenna challenged, that means 
running “high” power (500 W).  It also means FYI that I use all assistance 
available to me such as skimmers, etc.  No, I won’t submit as multi op, since 
I’m not.  No, I won’t submit at all since I elect to maximize fun at the 
expense of contest rules.   So, yes, my  patience is short right now due to 
Elecraft equipment failure so I don’t appreciate the reminder of the contest 
rules.  I never break them *and* submit a score. “Period.  (To quote Pres. 
Obama)

As for the fault table, I’ll send that into CS on Monday so it’s tracked 
appropriately, etc.  No need for you to spend Sunday time on it, but thanks.  I 
was hoping another owner would have had a similar issue and could share some 
insight.

73

Gary Ferdinand W2CS




On Jan 18, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Jack Brindle jackbrin...@me.com wrote:

 Ooh. Well, I hope it wasn’t punishment for “bending” the NAQP rules:
 No greater than 100 W. Use of external amplifiers capable of more than 100 W 
 output is not allowed.
 And yes, my KPA is not running while I play in NAQP...
 
 OK, so please send me a copy of the fault table for evaluation. We will see 
 what we can do, but I suspect we will need to get you in touch with CS on 
 Monday.
 I am sure I will hav emote questions for you after I go through the file.
 
 Jack Brindle, W6FB
 Elecraft Engineering
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 3:59 PM, Gary Ferdinand alapa...@taconic.net wrote:
 
 Well, I’m hat in hand looking for some advice.  Thanks in advance.
 
 Configuration:  K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 to a wire.  AUX cable used for 
 control.
 
 Symptom:  K3/KAT500 loads fine into the wire with amp either off or in 
 standby.  SWR goes high and no power out when amp is online.
 
 Possibly interesting facts:
 
 1.   Was toying with the NAQP today.  Seemed ok at the time.  Total failure 
 as I was trying to make a 6 meter VHF contest Q.
 2.   Numerous faults in the fault table for excessive dissipation.  Fault 
 code is 11, yet no fault seen on the amp.  News to me.
 3.   I’m totally clueless as to how to interpret the fault table timestamp 
 as to date and time, other than most recent at top
 4.   Amp is dead on all bands, 160-6  (no power out, presents high swr to 
 k3, relay heard in KAT500 at keying speed)
 5.   Tried a full power-off (plug pulled) with no difference
 6.   K3 gets the On/Off signal from the amp.
 7.   The amp was built by me from the kit and has provided good service for 
 months
 8.   Firmware 1.33 on the amp.
 
 
 There’s a very nice snowdrift out back that I’m considering throwing it into.
 
 
 Tnx for any suggestions.  Now back to the schematic.  :-(
 
 73/Gary W2CS
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-717-1197
My perception is that the JIS drivers are the best fit for Elecraft 
screws. I've never gotten a response from Elecraft about their choice of 
drivers.

73, doug

On 18-Jan-14 16:03, Gary Smith wrote:

Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
the only screwdriver to use on those screws.  As Charlie said, they
are ID'd by the dot on the head.

Gary
KA1J


If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
service
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
(Japanese
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
from the
Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
usually
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the
cross
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
Japanese
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.

73, Charlie k3ICH



- Original Message -
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
become
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
edges --
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
screwdrivers) will
result in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
and
clean up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
wrote:


Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips

Screw

Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap

screwdrivers

that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them

away, if

not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.

Buy a

static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the

construction

manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read

them again

and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get

help

until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part

again so

you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order

the

manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you

need to

plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket

then use

as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move

it a

little then be sure to
tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be

careful

and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but

every

step is important and must be done correctly.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it

together

properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Post: 

[Elecraft] KX3 and Argonaught Vl

2014-01-18 Thread george fritkin
First, I have no connection with either Ten Tec or Elecraft, except being a 
customer.
 
Second, I have 2K3s and 1KX3
 
Third, I have an ORION ll, OMNI Vll, Eagle, Argo Vl
 
Fourth, More other radios than the law allows
 
Fifth, I am an EE, had my own company and did many products with the same DSP 
(TI) used in most radios
 
Sixth, there is other junk but why bore you
 
All I can say is wow to both radios.  Yes the Argo does not have 12 or 60 
meters or built in ATU, all of this has been well talked about.  The Elecraft 
has its short comings too.
 
Fell..the KX feels a little fragile to me, while the Argo feels like a real 
radio.  I hate the power on scheme of the KX, Argo has a real on- off knob.  
The Argo has this multi-function switch to get triple duty from front panel 
buttons, while the KX has push once, push twice to get various functions from 
front panel controls.  This gives the Argo a cleaner look, but not necessarily 
easier operation. If you have a K3 you slip into KX operation easily, if you 
have an Eagle then the Argo is easy.  But I would give simplicity of operation 
to the Argo, but flexibility and options to the KX
 
So how about operation.  Well if you come to my QTH, you only will  find a 
couple of O'scopes and signal generators that are old enough to vote.  In other 
words no fancy test gear just on the air testing.  I have been in this hobby 
for many years (over 50) so I have had many radios.  They get better and 
better.  These two radios are simply outstanding.  Compared to either of my so 
called high end radios (and high end price) they and more than hold their own.  
The speaker in the KX has been well discussed so I will leave it alone, but the 
Argo has a great internal speaker with tons of audio.  I do not use headphones 
so this does matter to me.  Also maybe its me, but the KX seems to have 
slightly more artifacts in the receive audio than the Argo.  The KX QRM 
rejection controls maybe a little more flexible, but the Argo controls are 
great also and do their job
When  you read this realize I am mostly on SSB with a little CW and Digital.  
But if I were to operate Digital my choice would be KX, but for CW I would 
stick with the Argo
 
Both put out excellent transmit audio, with the KX sounding smoother and the 
Argo puncher.
 
So where does this leave me.  Other than they are QRP radios, they really are 
quite different.  The whole concept (direct conversion versus down mixing) 
worlds apart, but they both come to the same answer.  
 
They are both truly amazing and engineering master pieces.  As a EE and a DSP 
guy I really appreciate what both have done.
 
Which to buy?   I will, as an old Prof. of mine would say, leave the proof to 
the reader
 
Now excuse me, I am going back to play with my toys.  This little write-up 
covers just a tad of my impressions, if any one has questions, please email me
 
Thanks, 
73
de
George, W6GF
 
PS:  No charge for poor grammar and bad spelling.  After all I are 'ngerneer.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Died

2014-01-18 Thread Bill W2BLC

Due to recent experience, I have to wonder about the KAT500???

Do you have a resonant antenna or a high power dummy load you can go to 
directly - removing the KAT500 from the antenna circuit? If it works 
without the tuner in line - then you have likely eliminated the KPA500 
as the problem.


I did a similar test using a dummy load (Mil-Spec 2 kW)  with the KAT500 
in line and carried on a QSO while watching all the meters. After 
about 45 seconds the tuner went nuts and started a retune - with no 
change in frequency etc. having been made. I did this to eliminate any 
futher waste of time checking and repairing non-existent antenna problems.


For the naysayers: The dummy load does not heat up at that low power.

Going directly to a dummy load eliminates everything in the antenna line(s).

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Died

2014-01-18 Thread Jack Brindle
Gary;

I’m sorry my attempt at humor struck you the wrong way. You would be surprised 
at how many avid contesters forget that NAQP is one of the few major HF 
contests where high power is not allowed. From out this way, high power would 
help a lot, especially from the postage stamp sized lots most of us have…

As for the log, if you change your mind and would like to get a head start on 
the diagnostic process, go ahead and forward the fault table. Having the 
analysis ahead of time should speed things up for the crew. 

73, and try to enjoy the rest of your weekend. We will get your amp going as 
soon as we can.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

On Jan 18, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Gary Ferdinand alapa...@taconic.net wrote:

 OK Jack.
 
 I believe in having fun in a contest.  For me, antenna challenged, that means 
 running “high” power (500 W).  It also means FYI that I use all assistance 
 available to me such as skimmers, etc.  No, I won’t submit as multi op, since 
 I’m not.  No, I won’t submit at all since I elect to maximize fun at the 
 expense of contest rules.   So, yes, my  patience is short right now due to 
 Elecraft equipment failure so I don’t appreciate the reminder of the contest 
 rules.  I never break them *and* submit a score. “Period.  (To quote Pres. 
 Obama)
 
 As for the fault table, I’ll send that into CS on Monday so it’s tracked 
 appropriately, etc.  No need for you to spend Sunday time on it, but thanks.  
 I was hoping another owner would have had a similar issue and could share 
 some insight.
 
 73
 
 Gary Ferdinand W2CS
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Jack Brindle jackbrin...@me.com wrote:
 
 Ooh. Well, I hope it wasn’t punishment for “bending” the NAQP rules:
 No greater than 100 W. Use of external amplifiers capable of more than 100 
 W output is not allowed.
 And yes, my KPA is not running while I play in NAQP...
 
 OK, so please send me a copy of the fault table for evaluation. We will see 
 what we can do, but I suspect we will need to get you in touch with CS on 
 Monday.
 I am sure I will hav emote questions for you after I go through the file.
 
 Jack Brindle, W6FB
 Elecraft Engineering
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 3:59 PM, Gary Ferdinand alapa...@taconic.net wrote:
 
 Well, I’m hat in hand looking for some advice.  Thanks in advance.
 
 Configuration:  K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500 to a wire.  AUX cable used for 
 control.
 
 Symptom:  K3/KAT500 loads fine into the wire with amp either off or in 
 standby.  SWR goes high and no power out when amp is online.
 
 Possibly interesting facts:
 
 1.   Was toying with the NAQP today.  Seemed ok at the time.  Total failure 
 as I was trying to make a 6 meter VHF contest Q.
 2.   Numerous faults in the fault table for excessive dissipation.  Fault 
 code is 11, yet no fault seen on the amp.  News to me.
 3.   I’m totally clueless as to how to interpret the fault table timestamp 
 as to date and time, other than most recent at top
 4.   Amp is dead on all bands, 160-6  (no power out, presents high swr to 
 k3, relay heard in KAT500 at keying speed)
 5.   Tried a full power-off (plug pulled) with no difference
 6.   K3 gets the On/Off signal from the amp.
 7.   The amp was built by me from the kit and has provided good service for 
 months
 8.   Firmware 1.33 on the amp.
 
 
 There’s a very nice snowdrift out back that I’m considering throwing it 
 into.
 
 
 Tnx for any suggestions.  Now back to the schematic.  :-(
 
 73/Gary W2CS
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Signal Isolation between antenna ports

2014-01-18 Thread Keith Onishi
Hi Phil,

Thanks for the info. I read the product review.
I will try to find better combination of antenna connection to the ANT1/2/3 
ports.
Local noise is very strong in my location, sometimes S7 to S9 in worst case. So 
bigger antenna picks up more noise. When my 14MHz quad is connected to ANT1, 
the noise from the 14MHz quad goes to TRX on selecting ANT2 or ANT3.
If the unselected ports went to ground level, we would have better isolation.

73 de JH3SIF, Keith


On 2014/01/19, at 1:23, Phil  Debbie Salas dpsa...@tx.rr.com wrote:

 Hi Keith – Take a look at the measured KAT500 isolation numbers in the 
 “Product Reviews” section of my website at www.ad5x.com.  The isolation 
 varies based on the ports chosen, and the frequency band.  As an example, the 
 isolation on 20 meters has a worst-case value of 36dB between ports 2-3 (when 
 3 is selected), and a best case value of 65dB between ports 3-1 with port 1 
 selected.  You might want to select the antennas and ports to maximize 
 isolation.  As an example, port 1-2 isolation is much worse than port 1-3 
 isolation.  So I put my 6-meter beam on port 2, and my two HF antennas on 
 ports 1 and 3.
 
 You can easily hear signals that are very far down from a desired signal.  
 Measurements made in my old telecom days indicated that you can usually hear 
 tones as low as 90dB down!  And, of course, if the signal on the unselected 
 antenna is hotter than on the selected antenna, things can sound worse.
 
 Phil – AD5X
 
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[Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter Problem

2014-01-18 Thread Darrell Hagan
Hi everyone!

I recently bought a used K2 with the KSB2 SSB adapter. The builder did a very 
clean, professional building job on both the radio and the KSB2 and I can find 
nothing wrong with the construction - i.e. no cold solder joints, no shorts, no 
solder bridges, all circuit paths are as they should be and have been verified 
several times.

The radio works perfectly normal in CW mode, and RX in the SSB modes is fine.

So here is my problem - when I key the radio in SSB mode via either the mic 
jack or the cw jack, I get a brief HI CUR warning and I get 12 watts of carrier 
which is unaffected by the carrier balance pot. Also, there is virtually SSB TX 
audio. ONLY SSB mode is affected.

I have taken voltage readings as suggested in the KSB2 manual and found (2) 
voltages to be out of line, both on U2:

U2 pin 5 - 5.99v, should be 0.6v

U2 Pin 8 - 0.45v, should be 6.0v

These are way out. All connections, components, etc. have been verified correct 
and good so I am thinking that U1 (the PIC) is the problem as it does affect 
this part of the circuit. I ahve reflowed all solder connactions on the entire 
board without success.

Toroids have been checked for shorting against the crystal cans, no shorts.

Q2 on the K2 RF board has been checked for proper installation and is verified 
good.

Again, the symptoms are: constant 12w output with inability to balance carrier.

No TX audio on SSB (yes the mic is good and is correctly wired)

Hi Cur message. TX cur is set in the menu @ 2.5A so this should not be a 
problem.

Any thoughts are appreciated, thank you!
   
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2014-01-18 Thread kev...@coho.net
Good Evening,
   It was sunny and mild for most of the week.  The loggers are taking
advantage of it by clear cutting the eastern side of this mountain. 
The road is getting a pounding.  Both the county and the logging
company have been dumping gravel on the road but it gets pushed down
faster than they can lay it.  I expect them to continue logging this
section until summer.
   Propagation has been decent when the noise levels drop.  The sun has
been tossing various ions at us making for both better conditions and
an auroral hiss in the background.  If the moon were not so bright this
week I would probably have been able to see the northern lights this
far south.  I have only seen them once while living here and they were
right on the horizon.  If not for their movement I would have thought
it was the light haze of St. Helens.

   Please join us tomorrow.

14050 kHz at 2300z Sunday (3 PM PST Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0200z Monday (6 PM PST Sunday)

  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS


-

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[Elecraft] SSB net announcement

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (Sunday, 1/19/14 ) at 1800z on 
14.3035 MHz.  I will be net control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,
Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
Thanks Don -- I will go searching for one of those tomorrow.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Phil,
 
 Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My 
 solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed for 
 reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at Walmart.
 
 Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small 
 parts such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT 
 kits like the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option 
 for my KX1 there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work 
 to read the printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying 
 glasses, a magnifying lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had 
 to grab my Fluke DVM and use that to measure the capacitance to determine 
 which was which.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Homebrew power supply

2014-01-18 Thread Mike Schultz KS0T

This is a very robust design.  I built one in 1982 and it is still going.

73, Mike KS0T


On 1/17/2014 2:04 PM, Roger Last wrote:

John ,

  you might like to try this link , http://www.warc.org.uk/proj_psu.php .

I built the one mentioned at the start of the article in 1989 and pleased
to say its still performing today , is this tempting fate?

Roger
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Argonaught Vl

2014-01-18 Thread george fritkin

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Signal Isolation between antenna ports

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Brown

On 1/18/2014 8:23 AM, Phil  Debbie Salas wrote:

Take a look at the measured KAT500 isolation numbers in the “Product Reviews” 
section of my website atwww.ad5x.com.  The isolation varies based on the ports 
chosen, and the frequency band.  As an example, the isolation on 20 meters has 
a worst-case value of 36dB between ports 2-3 (when 3 is selected), and a best 
case value of 65dB between ports 3-1 with port 1 selected.


Yes, BUT -- these are passive networks, and the response of all passive 
networks depends upon the source Z and the load Z at each port. I'll bet 
your measurements were for 50 ohm sources and 50 ohm loads. Real world 
antennas differ widely from 50 ohms even when they are close to 
resonance on the bands of interest, and by a lot more when they are 
resonant on other bands. And if that isn't enough, source and load Z are 
transformed by transmission lines between the antenna, the device (the 
KAT), and the load (the RX). We run into exactly the same issues when 
measuring bandpass filters, a lot of which I published a year or so ago 
in NCJ. Our measurements look great, we do them very carefully, but hook 
real antennas and equipment to these networks and the results can be 
very different.


73, Jim K9YC
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