Re: [Elecraft] 2 meter amp for K3 or KX3

[Edward R Cole]

Just a comment that I have built W6PQL amps (300w 1296 amp) (better 
quality than the commercial amps like Mirage).


I had forgotten that Jim (Klitzing) had the 80w 2m linear article in 
QST (here is link to his 
webpage):.http://www.w6pql.com/2_meter_80w_all_mode_amplifier.htm


Note: he offers the pcb with some components pre-installed but it 
should still be considered a kit (type you solder things together), 
so is not a ready to use unit.  BTW the amplifier module drives with 
50mw so even the KX3-2m is able to drive one.  Running 1w drive 
requires a 13-dB input attenuator which can be built-in with the amp.


I built some kits for others and with the interest shown here for a 
2m amp, would an assembled 2m amp be of interest?
I can research the costs to build one these if there is.  I can guess 
the cost will be near the same for a 100w Mirage.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] KAT 500

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Just got my kit today.

SN 1234   Pretty cool

I might be missing a couple of the tiny split washers.  They can easily 
get stuck in the envelopes with the so239's.   A bag of their own might 
be better if this has been an issue.  There were two in my spare parts 
bag so I think I am ok.  No big deal, just providing feedback.


I got 4 extra black screws in one package with one of the So239's.

I will probably start the build tomorrow.  Pretty simple compared to the K3.

--
Mike W0MU

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Re: [Elecraft] 756ProIII vs K3

[Richard S. Leary]

Right on Doug. I love my K-Line. Best rig I've ever had, and like you, until
the K4, I won't have another. Unless I add a KX3, or K1. Nothing like having
a rig you can tailor to your personal operating preferences. Thank you
Elecraft!! Now, I, for sure, would buy that new K3 transmit signal monitor
that would fit in my P3. Hint, Wayne...
73, Rick, W7LKG

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Person
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 19:51
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 756ProIII vs K3

In 1964 I had the same setup: HQ-170A, Eico 720 and a VFO.  In those days,
the HQ-170 was like science fiction come true for me. It was wonderful
stuff.  But, one day, I visited another ham who had just gotten a Drake 'B'
line.  Don't remember what year it was.  But I was very impressed.  I think,
even today, the 'B' line would be a very usable pair of rigs.  Because of
them, I owned a 'C' line for many years with every modification I could find
for them. Eventually, someone offered me a price that made me gasp.  I
turned that money into a 756-Pro.

I too tend to "rent" rigs.  I have a closet full right now.  I doubt any of
them will see anymore desk time.  I've proven to myself over and over that
the K3 is the real keeper.  Until there's a K4, I doubt anything else will
ever be front and center on my desk.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 4/14/2014 12:56 AM, Richard S. Leary wrote:
> Nostalgia trip. Built my Eico 720 in 62, but splurged with an HQ-170A
rcvr.
> After spending around 5 hours a day (average) for 6 1/2 years doing CW 
> intercept, spinning the knobs on an SP-600, Hammarlund seemed a good 
> way to go.
> Still have a couple of 40 mtr xtals for the 720. The big jump was the 
> VFO for the 720. Went from the 720 to Heathkit SB-300/400, to Collins 
> 75s3/32s3, to Kenwood TS870S, then to presently the K3/100, KPA500, 
> and P3 (all kits, and no hardware/software failures, except those of 
> the operator induced kind.). I would have loved a K3 during my 
> intercept days. Ever try changing bands from 10m to say 40m or 80m on 
> an R-390. Not my idea of "fun". Sounds like a few Keesler "Thompson Hall"
folks out there. Right Fred.
> OK, enough OT. Thanks for the memories. Good luck on that 720 Phil.
> 73,
> Rick, W7LKG
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
> Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2014 22:14
> To: Milt -- N5IA
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 756ProIII vs K3
>
> Actually, I am in the slow process of rebuilding an Eico 720 right 
> now.  I am doing from scratch with all new parts except for the 
> transformers, switches and inductors.  I am even putting new tube 
> sockets in the chassis and also new terminal strips.  I am still in 
> the process of collecting everything before I start.  I have two Eico 720s
from which I am starting.
> I think one of them was a factory built unit because a number of parts 
> like tube sockets and the modulator socket on the rear as well as the 
> VFO switch on the back were mounted with rivets rather than pan head
screws and nuts.
>
> It is a slow background project though.  But, I do have some 40-meter 
> crystals all ready for when it is finished.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net results for 4/6/2014

[Phil Shepard]

Here is the SSB net report for April 6, 2014.  We had 32 participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

W0CZKen ND  K3  457
KM4IK   Ian GA  K3  281
KF7JZH  Ron ID  KX3 2262
QRP
N1QOC   PaulUT  K3  5563
N4SJW   JohnCO  IC7200
K8NUCarlOH  K3  7976
KJ1DRickTN  K3  5221
NZ0TBillKS  K3  1502
K1NWBrian   RI  K3  4974
VE3XM   Bob ON  K3  409
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
KE5GBC  MikeTX  K3  5047
QRP
K7BRR   BillAZ  K3  5545
QRP
AD5IJ   Howard  OR  KX3 5178QRP
N6TIE   KurtCA  K3  7979
QRP
WD0AKZ  George  MN  KX3 4830QRP
KL7UW   Ed  AK  K3  4043
QRP
WB9JNZ  EricIL  K3  4017
WN4SLG  DougTN  KX3 2915QRP
N8SBE   DaveMI  K3  3104
K5ZCJ   Larry   OK  K3  6592
KN5LJohnTX  K3  4448
WW4JF   JohnTN  K3  6185
W1USN   MikeMA  K3  1964
KK5LD   Dan TX  K3  986
KF7MSZ/mBob AZ  FT897
KF5YBE  Lee TX  K3  7771
W7QHD   KurtAZ  K2  1538
WV5IDwayne  TX  K3  5287
W7JJA   JohnWA  K3  993
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826



Here is the net report for April 13, 2014.  We had 30 participants

N6JWJohnCA  K3  936
WM6PSteve   CA  K3  8133
NC0JW   Jim CO  KX3 1356
AD0HT   ZachCO  KX3 5483QRP
K8NUCarlOH  K3  7976
WB9JNZ  EricIL  K3  6516
Friend’s shack
KF5IMA  Bruce   MS  K2  3575
AD5IJ   Howard  OR  KX3 5178QRP
W4RKS   Jim TX  K3  3618
W5TTF   Charlie TX  K3  4016
AB9VMikeIN  K3  398
KK4QDZ  BillNC  KX3 4515
VE7EAR  Al  BC  KX3 3158
VE3XM   Bob ON  K3  409
WW4JF   JohnTN  K3  6185
KD4PS   DaveIL  KX3 3389QRP
W0SGM   Scott   IA  KX3 3689QRP
K7BRR   BillAZ  K3  5545
QRP
N7ULAndrew  OR  KX3 4478QRP
AC0ZG   JohnCO  HP STR Hermes
KF5YBE  Lee TX  K3  7771
K9QJS   HoopWA  K3  6884
WB9SFG  RichIL  KX3 4834
QRP
KF7GC   Tommy   AZ  K2  5818
W7QHD   KurtAZ  K2  1538
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
K6SBA   David   CA  K3  565
WB5JJA  Ray OK  K3  7877
K2UTBob NJ  K3  8017
QRP
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826


73,
Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Got teh radio...

[Jim Brown]

On 4/16/2014 5:24 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
You mentioned AC power - you should power all of your station from the 
same AC receptacle


Yes.

(exception is a 230 VAC power for amplifiers). 


The green wire for the 240V outlet should either be the same wire as for 
the 120V outlet, OR the green wires should be bonded together by short 
fat copper.  Every equipment chassis should be bonded together by short, 
fat copper, including computers, and one of those chassis must be bonded 
to the entry panel ground.


That assures you that the AC mains ground comes to one point rather 
than wandering 'willy-nilly' around the green wire ground connecting 
the various AC receptacles in the house. 


Yes.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Got the radio...

[David Cole]

Hi Don,

That is the plan...  I just want to add one more, as I have one, the
weather is not bad, I need the exercise, and a bit better ground can't
hurt.  

Thanks for the heads up on making sure it is tied to teh house ground.
Our ground is getting close to 20 years old, so I am pretty sure it is
not that good anymore...  My intent is to just add on to the existing
electrical system ground, then tie it to my shack ground, which is only
about 10 feet away...  I have a pile of #6 wire here, I will be using
for this.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Wed, 2014-04-16 at 21:37 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> David,
> 
> If you add ground rods, know that all ground rods should be tied back to 
> the Utility ground rod by a large conductor (#6 wire is the minimum 
> size).  That is not only a requirement of NEC safety rules, but also a 
> safety consideration for your station.  All driven ground rods must be 
> connected together unless the separation between the ground rods is 100 
> feet or more.
> 
> My own installation has grounds that are as much as 200 feet from the 
> Utility Ground rod, but there are intermediate grounds that are less 
> than 100 feet, so *all* are interconnected by large diameter 
> conductors.  This is primarily a consideration for AC fault conditions, 
> but also part of my plan for lightning protection - perimeter wires 
> around each building and all grounds interconnected with #6 or greater 
> wire to give the charge from a lightning surge a large area to dissipate 
> (hopefully without damage such as punching holes through the house 
> foundation).  All towers and masts are grounded to this system.
> 
> Your home safety demands that you tie all grounds together and tie into 
> the utility ground system.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 4/16/2014 9:13 PM, David Cole wrote:
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > Thank you for that info, I have powered everything, (except for the
> > amp), off a single largish UPS, that way the grounds are the same, and I
> > get a few minutes to kill power of the commercial power dies...
> >
> > I will be adding a new ground rod to the house ground system, and
> > bonding that to the station ground later this week.
> >
> > Thanks again for the info on grounds.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Got the radio...

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

If you add ground rods, know that all ground rods should be tied back to 
the Utility ground rod by a large conductor (#6 wire is the minimum 
size).  That is not only a requirement of NEC safety rules, but also a 
safety consideration for your station.  All driven ground rods must be 
connected together unless the separation between the ground rods is 100 
feet or more.


My own installation has grounds that are as much as 200 feet from the 
Utility Ground rod, but there are intermediate grounds that are less 
than 100 feet, so *all* are interconnected by large diameter 
conductors.  This is primarily a consideration for AC fault conditions, 
but also part of my plan for lightning protection - perimeter wires 
around each building and all grounds interconnected with #6 or greater 
wire to give the charge from a lightning surge a large area to dissipate 
(hopefully without damage such as punching holes through the house 
foundation).  All towers and masts are grounded to this system.


Your home safety demands that you tie all grounds together and tie into 
the utility ground system.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2014 9:13 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi Don,

Thank you for that info, I have powered everything, (except for the
amp), off a single largish UPS, that way the grounds are the same, and I
get a few minutes to kill power of the commercial power dies...

I will be adding a new ground rod to the house ground system, and
bonding that to the station ground later this week.

Thanks again for the info on grounds.


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Re: [Elecraft] Got the radio...

[David Cole]

Hi Don,

Thank you for that info, I have powered everything, (except for the
amp), off a single largish UPS, that way the grounds are the same, and I
get a few minutes to kill power of the commercial power dies...

I will be adding a new ground rod to the house ground system, and
bonding that to the station ground later this week.

Thanks again for the info on grounds.
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Wed, 2014-04-16 at 20:24 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> David,
> 
> You mentioned AC power - you should power all of your station from the 
> same AC receptacle (exception is a 230 VAC power for amplifiers).  That 
> assures you that the AC mains ground comes to one point rather than 
> wandering 'willy-nilly' around the green wire ground connecting the 
> various AC receptacles in the house.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] W1AW/5 MS With K3, P3, and KPA500.

[Slava Baytalskiy]

I tried to bust through the pileup to you on 20m last night.
No such luck. Not with my SPT-500 "Penetrator" antenna for 10m.
Some pileup you created...

Slava B
W2RMS

On Apr 16, 2014, at 7:59 PM, Bill Breeden  wrote:

> 
> I operated as W1AW/5 from here on the Mississippi Gulf Coast last night on 
> 160 CW from 03-04z, and today on 30 CW from 13-15z and on 17 CW from 17-19z.
> 
> It was my first experience running stations split.  What a pleasure with a 
> K3, P3, and KPA500!  I logged 555 QSO's in total.
> 
> I hope I worked several of you.  I recall working W4TV on 160 and 30.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bill - NA5DX
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Got teh radio...

[Phil Wheeler]

Sounds good, David. I've done substantial rework, 
too -- but mostly due to the KPA500 (needed RG-213 
to replace RG-8X runs in the shack -- and added 
switches so I can use 3/4 antennas with K3/500 or 
other rigs, like K1, KX1, K2/100 and KX3).


I'm never likely to post pictures of my shack: It 
will never be that neat, I fear.


Congrats on your K3! I've had mine a couple of 
months or so, and I expect to still be learning a 
year from now (e.g., just set it up to do PSK31 
with a SignaLink USB today).


73, Phil w7ox

On 4/16/14, 5:16 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi All,
The radio arrived, all is working well!  The book by KE7X arrived a day
later...

I have the rig on air, and it appears to be working great.  Quite a
learning curve...  But I am taking it one step at a time, getting each
function working, then rewiring the shack to accommodate.

I decided to redo the entire station as well...  Pulled every item off
the desk, and started by replacing all grounds with 1 inch braid.  Moved
to AC power, then 12 Volt power, then to signal and control.

Much neater behind the desk now.  I mounted all the power outlets,
etc...  I'll have photos on the web site soon...




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 fan problem

[Eric Buggee]

Hi all,

I have had exactly the same problem on my K3 (4520) It is 
intermittent and ahs been that way fo a couple of years! Not causing any 
operational issues except for 160M AM net when it causes the K3 to drop 
back to 5 watts use it to drive a linear with the power out set to 
equivalent of 50 Watts.


f the fellows at Elecraft service can shed some light on the 
problem I would appreciate any guidance.  I have had the 100Watt Pa out 
a couple of times but nothing looks untoward.


BTW, I have been having "ERR12V" displayed a few times ! and the 
pins for the PA power feed are the gold plated type.  Any suggestions or 
comments offered will be appreciated.


73,

Eric VK3AX.



On 4/17/2014 1:55 AM, Merv Schweigert wrote:

Noticed this morning when turning on the K3 for the first time after
being off all night,  that the fans were on and changing speed
rapidly.  The fan would run between low and the 3rd speed back
and forth.
Checking the PA temp it was jumping from 25C to 60C back and
forth,  thus the reason the fans were doing the same.   It did this
for about 2 minutes and then went into normal no fan mode.
Anyone had something like this happen?  Bad sensor?  The radio
had just been turned on so could not have been up to 60C temp
indicated.
Never use more than 35 watts power as I drive an amp all the time,

Thanks  73 Merv K9FD/KH6

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Re: [Elecraft] Got teh radio...

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

You mentioned AC power - you should power all of your station from the 
same AC receptacle (exception is a 230 VAC power for amplifiers).  That 
assures you that the AC mains ground comes to one point rather than 
wandering 'willy-nilly' around the green wire ground connecting the 
various AC receptacles in the house.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2014 8:16 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi All,
The radio arrived, all is working well!  The book by KE7X arrived a day
later...

I have the rig on air, and it appears to be working great.  Quite a
learning curve...  But I am taking it one step at a time, getting each
function working, then rewiring the shack to accommodate.

I decided to redo the entire station as well...  Pulled every item off
the desk, and started by replacing all grounds with 1 inch braid.  Moved
to AC power, then 12 Volt power, then to signal and control.

Much neater behind the desk now.  I mounted all the power outlets,
etc...  I'll have photos on the web site soon...




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[Elecraft] Got teh radio...

[David Cole]

Hi All,
The radio arrived, all is working well!  The book by KE7X arrived a day
later...  

I have the rig on air, and it appears to be working great.  Quite a
learning curve...  But I am taking it one step at a time, getting each
function working, then rewiring the shack to accommodate.  

I decided to redo the entire station as well...  Pulled every item off
the desk, and started by replacing all grounds with 1 inch braid.  Moved
to AC power, then 12 Volt power, then to signal and control.  

Much neater behind the desk now.  I mounted all the power outlets,
etc...  I'll have photos on the web site soon...


-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



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[Elecraft] W1AW/5 MS With K3, P3, and KPA500.

[Bill Breeden]

I operated as W1AW/5 from here on the Mississippi Gulf Coast last night 
on 160 CW from 03-04z, and today on 30 CW from 13-15z and on 17 CW from 
17-19z.


It was my first experience running stations split.  What a pleasure with 
a K3, P3, and KPA500!  I logged 555 QSO's in total.


I hope I worked several of you.  I recall working W4TV on 160 and 30.

73,

Bill - NA5DX



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[John_N1JM]

A friend in the Philippines KPA500 failed and he said that he heard others
with early serial numbers had failed.



David Bunte wrote
> John -
> 
> I am curious.  Where did you hear of such failures, and under what
> circumstances?  I have not heard of any. 
> 
> Dave - K9FN
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> lists+1215531472858-365791@.nabble





-
73, John N1JM
K3 #5986
P3 #1752
KPA500 #596
KX3 #926
XG3
XG1


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VFO alignment & display accuracy

[Don Wilhelm]

Sean,

Check the value of C21 - if should be a 33 pF disc ceramic capacitor.  
If you put the blue capacitor labeled 331 into the C21 position, the 4 
MHz reference frequency will be too low and you will not be able to get 
the counters to match.


Your BFO and VFO frequencies are within the realm of sanity, so that is 
not the problem.  The problem is with the frequency of the 4 MHz 
reference.  That is controlled by C21, C22 and X2 alone.

You should have a red dot on C22.

If the capacitors are correct, it may be that the 4 MHz crystal is off, 
and that would be the first thing I would replace.  If you have to order 
parts, I would suggest you get new parts for X1, C21, and C22 at the 
same time - the extra cost for the capacitors will be less than $1.00.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2014 4:55 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the quick response.
I gave this a try and went the other direction with the counter. Now after 
running PLL, my offset is further off (120Hz).
I am still not able to get the BFO and VFO counters to line up. Turning the 
other direction put me closer the 120Hz offset above.
I have been using the methods found on your website by N6KR in LSB mode 
zerobeating to the 600Hz tone of WWV by using the “Spot” function.
When moving the probe from TP1 to TP 2, I cannot get the counter to line up any 
closer than 70Hz, no matter how many directions I turn C22.
This is why I believe it is a hardware issue.

- Sean K5SMJ

On Apr 16, 2014, at 2:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:


Sean,

If the BFO (TP2) is at 4913.05 and the VFO (TP1) is at 14912.97, then the 
frequency read at TP1 must come *up* in frequency by 9 to 10 Hz.
In other words, the count *must* rise.
 From what you said, the count will rise above 14912,97, and that is exactly 
what you want.
The count for the VFO will move about 5 times faster than the BFO, so try 
setting the count at TP1 at 14913.07 as your first guess, then check TP2 - it 
should be near 4913.07 - if not make minor adjustments until the 3 low order 
digits in both counter displays are the same when properly tuned to WWV.

On tuning to WWV, you must do that is SSB mode, and the carrier will be at zero 
frequency (which you cannot hear).  I recommend you use Spectrogram or other 
audio spectrum analyzer to show you the frequency of the tones transmitted by 
WWV.  The 1 second tone every minute is at 1000 Hz, and the normal tones 
alternate between 500 and 600 Hz with a 440 Hz tone 2 minutes after the hour.
Tune the VFO to align those tones at the correct frequency.

If you do not have Spectrogram, you can download it from my website 
www.w3fpr.com.

Note that after running CAL PLL and CAL FIL, the count frequencies will be 
different than they are now.

You might want to review the K2 Dial Calibration information on my website 
www.w3fpr.com.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2014 1:18 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote:

I have been trying to get my VFO aligned by adjusting C22 based on the methods 
recommended by N6KR and as posted in the app notes on the Elecraft website - 
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/notes_on_adjusting_c22.htm.
I can never get it closer than 70 Hz. I am using the 10MHz WWV signal for 
reference. When I switch between TP1 and TP2 the closest match I can reach is 
between 4913.05 and14912.97. I tried to adjust for a -70 Hz offset while 
connected to TP2, but 14912.97 is as far as the I can go before the count 
starts to rise again.
I saw an older post where Don W3FPR mentioned changing C21 to a different 
value. Would this solve my issue, and if so, are there any suggestions as to 
which value I should use?




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[Roger Dallimore]

My KPA500 kit did not work from the get go, this was also due to a 
faulty relay. The amp was repaired under warranty in Italy where I had 
excellent support and communication but the postage was horrendous, 
nearly £200, and it was sent without the transformer!


73
Roger MW0IDX

On 16/04/2014 20:34, Poul Erik Karlshøj (PKA) wrote:

My KPA500 T/R switch failed after two weeks of operation. Can not pinpoint any 
reason why it should fail. It was repaired by Elecraft under warranty in Italy 
and has now worked 10 weeks with no problem.

I now always check VSWR on K3 and on KPA with KPA in STBY whenever i operate on 
a new band and always have the KPA in STBY when I let the KAT500 tune. It is a 
bit cumbersome but really not a big deal.

I would be surprised if I were the only one having had a failing KPA500 T/R 
switch.

NB: Europeans sending their failed Elecraft gear for repair at the Elecraft 
associate in Italy must pay for the shipping BOTH ways. This is clearly poorer 
customer service than what Elecraft provided for its US customers.

73 de OZ4UN
Poul-Erik



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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

[Harry_Yingst]

Nice but a bit more than I need





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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VFO alignment & display accuracy

[Sean Michael Johnston]

Don,

Thanks for the quick response.
I gave this a try and went the other direction with the counter. Now after 
running PLL, my offset is further off (120Hz). 
I am still not able to get the BFO and VFO counters to line up. Turning the 
other direction put me closer the 120Hz offset above.
I have been using the methods found on your website by N6KR in LSB mode 
zerobeating to the 600Hz tone of WWV by using the “Spot” function.
When moving the probe from TP1 to TP 2, I cannot get the counter to line up any 
closer than 70Hz, no matter how many directions I turn C22.
This is why I believe it is a hardware issue.

- Sean K5SMJ

On Apr 16, 2014, at 2:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Sean,
> 
> If the BFO (TP2) is at 4913.05 and the VFO (TP1) is at 14912.97, then the 
> frequency read at TP1 must come *up* in frequency by 9 to 10 Hz.
> In other words, the count *must* rise.
> From what you said, the count will rise above 14912,97, and that is exactly 
> what you want.
> The count for the VFO will move about 5 times faster than the BFO, so try 
> setting the count at TP1 at 14913.07 as your first guess, then check TP2 - it 
> should be near 4913.07 - if not make minor adjustments until the 3 low order 
> digits in both counter displays are the same when properly tuned to WWV.
> 
> On tuning to WWV, you must do that is SSB mode, and the carrier will be at 
> zero frequency (which you cannot hear).  I recommend you use Spectrogram or 
> other audio spectrum analyzer to show you the frequency of the tones 
> transmitted by WWV.  The 1 second tone every minute is at 1000 Hz, and the 
> normal tones alternate between 500 and 600 Hz with a 440 Hz tone 2 minutes 
> after the hour.
> Tune the VFO to align those tones at the correct frequency.
> 
> If you do not have Spectrogram, you can download it from my website 
> www.w3fpr.com.
> 
> Note that after running CAL PLL and CAL FIL, the count frequencies will be 
> different than they are now.
> 
> You might want to review the K2 Dial Calibration information on my website 
> www.w3fpr.com.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 4/16/2014 1:18 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote:
>> I have been trying to get my VFO aligned by adjusting C22 based on the 
>> methods recommended by N6KR and as posted in the app notes on the Elecraft 
>> website - http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/notes_on_adjusting_c22.htm.
>> I can never get it closer than 70 Hz. I am using the 10MHz WWV signal for 
>> reference. When I switch between TP1 and TP2 the closest match I can reach 
>> is between 4913.05 and14912.97. I tried to adjust for a -70 Hz offset while 
>> connected to TP2, but 14912.97 is as far as the I can go before the count 
>> starts to rise again.
>> I saw an older post where Don W3FPR mentioned changing C21 to a different 
>> value. Would this solve my issue, and if so, are there any suggestions as to 
>> which value I should use?
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[Gary Gregory]

Strange question, I have not seen or heard of such an issue or on this
reflector from memory.

Curious to hear what the replies are.

Gary


On 17 April 2014 03:43, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> What makes you suggest that it is, John?
>
> Phil w7ox
>
>
> On 4/16/14, 9:59 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
>
>> Is this a widespread problem? Mine is okay now but I have heard there have
>> been a few failures.
>>
>> 73,
>> John N1JM
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>> 73, John N1JM
>> K3 #5986
>> P3 #1752
>> KPA500 #596
>> KX3 #926
>> XG3
>> XG1
>>
>
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>



-- 



*Gary - VK1ZZ, K3NHLSkype: Gary.VK1ZZhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zz
Motorhome Portable*
*"Grumpy's House"*


*Elecraft K3KPA500FTKAT500FT*
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[PKA]

My KPA500 T/R switch failed after two weeks of operation. Can not pinpoint any 
reason why it should fail. It was repaired by Elecraft under warranty in Italy 
and has now worked 10 weeks with no problem.

I now always check VSWR on K3 and on KPA with KPA in STBY whenever i operate on 
a new band and always have the KPA in STBY when I let the KAT500 tune. It is a 
bit cumbersome but really not a big deal.

I would be surprised if I were the only one having had a failing KPA500 T/R 
switch.

NB: Europeans sending their failed Elecraft gear for repair at the Elecraft 
associate in Italy must pay for the shipping BOTH ways. This is clearly poorer 
customer service than what Elecraft provided for its US customers.

73 de OZ4UN
Poul-Erik

Sendt fra min iPad

> Den 16/04/2014 kl. 19.43 skrev "Phil Wheeler" :
> 
> What makes you suggest that it is, John?
> 
> Phil w7ox
> 
>> On 4/16/14, 9:59 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
>> Is this a widespread problem? Mine is okay now but I have heard there have
>> been a few failures3,
>> John N1JM
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> 73, John N1JM
>> K3 #5986
>> P3 #1752
>> KPA500 #596
>> KX3 #926
>> XG3
>> XG1
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VFO alignment & display accuracy

[Don Wilhelm]

Sean,

If the BFO (TP2) is at 4913.05 and the VFO (TP1) is at 14912.97, then 
the frequency read at TP1 must come *up* in frequency by 9 to 10 Hz.

In other words, the count *must* rise.
From what you said, the count will rise above 14912,97, and that is 
exactly what you want.
The count for the VFO will move about 5 times faster than the BFO, so 
try setting the count at TP1 at 14913.07 as your first guess, then check 
TP2 - it should be near 4913.07 - if not make minor adjustments until 
the 3 low order digits in both counter displays are the same when 
properly tuned to WWV.


On tuning to WWV, you must do that is SSB mode, and the carrier will be 
at zero frequency (which you cannot hear).  I recommend you use 
Spectrogram or other audio spectrum analyzer to show you the frequency 
of the tones transmitted by WWV.  The 1 second tone every minute is at 
1000 Hz, and the normal tones alternate between 500 and 600 Hz with a 
440 Hz tone 2 minutes after the hour.

Tune the VFO to align those tones at the correct frequency.

If you do not have Spectrogram, you can download it from my website 
www.w3fpr.com.


Note that after running CAL PLL and CAL FIL, the count frequencies will 
be different than they are now.


You might want to review the K2 Dial Calibration information on my 
website www.w3fpr.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2014 1:18 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote:

I have been trying to get my VFO aligned by adjusting C22 based on the methods 
recommended by N6KR and as posted in the app notes on the Elecraft website - 
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/notes_on_adjusting_c22.htm.
I can never get it closer than 70 Hz. I am using the 10MHz WWV signal for 
reference. When I switch between TP1 and TP2 the closest match I can reach is 
between 4913.05 and14912.97. I tried to adjust for a -70 Hz offset while 
connected to TP2, but 14912.97 is as far as the I can go before the count 
starts to rise again.
I saw an older post where Don W3FPR mentioned changing C21 to a different 
value. Would this solve my issue, and if so, are there any suggestions as to 
which value I should use?



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Re: [Elecraft] 2 meter amp for K3 or KX3

[Jim Bennett]

I second Joel's comments - it is a fun amp to build and operate. I put mine 
together last year and it has been a nice addition to my station. I drive it 
with my K3.

Jim / W6JHB


On   Wednesday, Apr 16, 2014, at  Wednesday, 11:28 AM, Joel Hallas wrote:

> The problem with most 2 meter "brick" type amplifiers, is that while they
> may have an "SSB" switch position, it generally only changes the TR
> switching method, and doesn't make them linear. The only medium-power 2 M
> amp I found that was linear, while we were testing them for QST was the
> Tokyo Hy-Power 300 W amp, that was in a whole different price category from
> the bricks, until they discontinued it.
> 
> While transmit linearity may not be a big deal for casual operation, the
> consequences of transmit IMD for other folks in busy areas during a VHF
> contest (about the only time people around here are on 2 M SSB) can be as
> severe as on the HF bands. Since I couldn't seem to generate any interest
> from Eric and Wayne in offering a suitable amplifier, I commissioned Jim
> Klitzing, W6PQL to come up with a lower power version of his excellent 2
> meter kilowatt that he published in QST. He did, and you can read about it
> in:
> 
> May 2013 - QST (Pg. 30)
> Build a Linear 2 Meter 80 W All Mode Amplifier
> 
> It can put out 100 W on CW, 80 W on SSB, with HF like IMD. It is fairly
> simple because it is based on a single amplifier module, and costs less to
> build than a brick. For this application, you can eliminate the automatic
> switching circuitry, although it doesn't take much, and then can be used
> with your FM handheld. It doesn't include a preamp because the K3 has a
> better NF than most preamps.
> 
> It can operate at almost any input level (including that of the KX3 2 meter
> mod, I believe) by setting the input attenuator. Because its current drain
> is less than the K3 during 100 W transmit, it can be run from the same power
> supply, since the K3 HF PA is off when on 2 meters. I have one and have been
> very happy with it. I believe Jim offers various parts kits on his website.
> 
> You do have to remember to switch it off when you go to 6 meters, since the
> amp quiescent current is high enough when the PTT switches to pop the PS
> breaker with 100 W on 6. You learn quickly.   
> 
> 
> Regards, Joel Hallas, W1ZR
> Westport, CT
> 
> 
> Subject: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?
> Message-ID: <1397611561586-7587334.p...@n2.nabble.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I installed the internal 2 meter module in my K3 so now I'm in the
> market for a good Amplifier to bring it up to at least 100 watts.
> 
> The K3 puts out 10 watts so the amp needs to be 10 Watts input
> 
> Any Suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Rising current on Tx (K3)

[Iain G4SGX]

Hello,

For the sake of future searchers etc, this problem was solved by winding 
the 12V PSU lead through a toroid or two, as per one of the suggestions 
from the list.


I was surprised as I am well away form my antenna. (Windom)

It seems a few people had this issue on 10M TX and I know remember I may 
have had it mobile once or twice.


All makes perfect sense now!



73 Iain
G4SGX




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Re: [Elecraft] 2 meter amp for K3 or KX3

[Joel Hallas]

The problem with most 2 meter "brick" type amplifiers, is that while they
may have an "SSB" switch position, it generally only changes the TR
switching method, and doesn't make them linear. The only medium-power 2 M
amp I found that was linear, while we were testing them for QST was the
Tokyo Hy-Power 300 W amp, that was in a whole different price category from
the bricks, until they discontinued it.

While transmit linearity may not be a big deal for casual operation, the
consequences of transmit IMD for other folks in busy areas during a VHF
contest (about the only time people around here are on 2 M SSB) can be as
severe as on the HF bands. Since I couldn't seem to generate any interest
from Eric and Wayne in offering a suitable amplifier, I commissioned Jim
Klitzing, W6PQL to come up with a lower power version of his excellent 2
meter kilowatt that he published in QST. He did, and you can read about it
in:

May 2013 - QST (Pg. 30)
Build a Linear 2 Meter 80 W All Mode Amplifier

It can put out 100 W on CW, 80 W on SSB, with HF like IMD. It is fairly
simple because it is based on a single amplifier module, and costs less to
build than a brick. For this application, you can eliminate the automatic
switching circuitry, although it doesn't take much, and then can be used
with your FM handheld. It doesn't include a preamp because the K3 has a
better NF than most preamps.

It can operate at almost any input level (including that of the KX3 2 meter
mod, I believe) by setting the input attenuator. Because its current drain
is less than the K3 during 100 W transmit, it can be run from the same power
supply, since the K3 HF PA is off when on 2 meters. I have one and have been
very happy with it. I believe Jim offers various parts kits on his website.

You do have to remember to switch it off when you go to 6 meters, since the
amp quiescent current is high enough when the PTT switches to pop the PS
breaker with 100 W on 6. You learn quickly.   
 

Regards, Joel Hallas, W1ZR
Westport, CT


Subject: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?
Message-ID: <1397611561586-7587334.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I installed the internal 2 meter module in my K3 so now I'm in the
market for a good Amplifier to bring it up to at least 100 watts.

The K3 puts out 10 watts so the amp needs to be 10 Watts input

Any Suggestions?



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Re: [Elecraft] Sealed lead battery position?

[Phil Kane]

On 4/16/2014 11:08 AM, Thomas Taylor wrote:

> I want to mount a sealed lead acid battery under the seat of my power
> wheelchair.  There is limited space which would require the battery be mounted
> on it's side.  Would this cause any problem/danger if proper insulating
> techniques are utilized?

A fully-sealed LA battery such as an AGM or Gel-Cell type usually can be
mounted in any position.  To be sure, though, check the manufacturer's
specs "just in case"...
-- --
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
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[Elecraft] Sealed lead battery position?

[Thomas Taylor]

I want to mount a sealed lead acid battery under the seat of my power
wheelchair.  There is limited space which would require the battery be mounted
on it's side.  Would this cause any problem/danger if proper insulating
techniques are utilized?

I want to power my 2mtr mobile unit for emcomm use without draining the chair's
battery and to power a couple of LED lamps.

Thanks, Tom  KG7CFC

-- 
The foolish man seeks happiness in the distance. The wise man grows it under
his feet.
  -  James Oppenheim

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  --.  --...  -.-.  ..-.  -.-.


Tom Taylor  KG7CFC
openSUSE 13.1 (64-bit), Kernel 3.11.6-4-default,
KDE 4.11.2, AMD Phenom X4 955, GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Nvidia 325.15)
16GB RAM -- 3x1.5TB sata2 -- 128GB-SSD
FF 27.0, claws-mail 3.9.2
registered linux user 263467
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[Phil Wheeler]

What makes you suggest that it is, John?

Phil w7ox

On 4/16/14, 9:59 AM, John_N1JM wrote:

Is this a widespread problem? Mine is okay now but I have heard there have
been a few failures.

73,
John N1JM



-
73, John N1JM
K3 #5986
P3 #1752
KPA500 #596
KX3 #926
XG3
XG1


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Re: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

[XE3/K5ENS]

"If this results in something > 80db over S9 then be concerned.  Consider 
RX protection."

Elecraft should be able give us a figure on the RF protection that the K3
and KX3 have built in.
I'm sure it would be in the design.  Wayne? Eric?

Keith, XE3/K5ENS



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[David Bunte]

John -

I am curious.  Where did you hear of such failures, and under what 
circumstances?  I have not heard of any. 

Dave - K9FN
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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

[XE3/K5ENS]

Nice.  A little pricey but nice.

Keith



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Re: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

[Brian Alsop]

Guys,
There is no substitute for a measurement.  There is no global answer to 
how close is too close or how much power is too much power.


Measurement process is simple:
1) Run one rig at 1 to 5 watts
2) Look at the S-meter on the other.
3) Scale the results upward by adding the number of dB to full power.
If this results in something > 80db over S9 then be concerned.  Consider 
RX protection.


Do the same with the other rig transmitting.
You might consider doing this on all bands.

73 de Brian/K3KO


On 4/16/2014 17:08, Mike Harris wrote:

Quite so.

Forty years ago the FT101 had a front end protection circuit that
included a light bulb.  When I was in the Antarctic, location doesn't
really matter, my antennas were reasonably close and when I keyed the
main TX at 1500W the rear of the '101 would flash with the keying. Never
suffered a front end failure.

I have a circuit diagram dated 2010 for an "RX Protector", which
unfortunately doesn't offer any authorship detail, it looks similar to
the '101 circuit.  If anyone wants a copy let me know.

If the idea of a bulb and a couple of back to back diodes and big
signals worries you then perhaps making this as a piece of test
equipment to be used as a level reality check and then taken out of the
signal path is possibly the answer.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 16/04/2014 12:40, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Connect a "grain-of-wheat" light bulb across the unused coax and
gradually increase transmit power.

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[Elecraft] [K2] VFO alignment & display accuracy

[Sean Michael Johnston]

I have been trying to get my VFO aligned by adjusting C22 based on the methods 
recommended by N6KR and as posted in the app notes on the Elecraft website - 
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/notes_on_adjusting_c22.htm.
I can never get it closer than 70 Hz. I am using the 10MHz WWV signal for 
reference. When I switch between TP1 and TP2 the closest match I can reach is 
between 4913.05 and14912.97. I tried to adjust for a -70 Hz offset while 
connected to TP2, but 14912.97 is as far as the I can go before the count 
starts to rise again.
I saw an older post where Don W3FPR mentioned changing C21 to a different 
value. Would this solve my issue, and if so, are there any suggestions as to 
which value I should use?

Thanks - Sean K5SMJ (formerly KG5AJZ)
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Re: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

[Mike Harris]

Quite so.

Forty years ago the FT101 had a front end protection circuit that 
included a light bulb.  When I was in the Antarctic, location doesn't 
really matter, my antennas were reasonably close and when I keyed the 
main TX at 1500W the rear of the '101 would flash with the keying. 
Never suffered a front end failure.


I have a circuit diagram dated 2010 for an "RX Protector", which 
unfortunately doesn't offer any authorship detail, it looks similar to 
the '101 circuit.  If anyone wants a copy let me know.


If the idea of a bulb and a couple of back to back diodes and big 
signals worries you then perhaps making this as a piece of test 
equipment to be used as a level reality check and then taken out of the 
signal path is possibly the answer.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 16/04/2014 12:40, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Connect a "grain-of-wheat" light bulb across the unused coax and
gradually increase transmit power.

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[Elecraft] KPA500 T/R Switch Failure

[John_N1JM]

Is this a widespread problem? Mine is okay now but I have heard there have
been a few failures.

73,
John N1JM



-
73, John N1JM
K3 #5986
P3 #1752
KPA500 #596
KX3 #926
XG3
XG1


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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

[Roger Banks]

At the risk of blowing our own trumpet here:

http://www.thedxshop.com/linear-amp-uk-linear-amplifiers/gemini-50mhz-70mhz-144mhz-432mhz-solid-state-linear-amplifiers/linear-amp-gemini-2-144mhz-300w-solid-state-linear-amplifier.html

We can supply it to order configured for 110-120V mains input.

73
Roger
GW4WND



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[Elecraft] K3 fan problem

[Merv Schweigert]

Noticed this morning when turning on the K3 for the first time after
being off all night,  that the fans were on and changing speed
rapidly.  The fan would run between low and the 3rd speed back
and forth.
Checking the PA temp it was jumping from 25C to 60C back and
forth,  thus the reason the fans were doing the same.   It did this
for about 2 minutes and then went into normal no fan mode.
Anyone had something like this happen?  Bad sensor?  The radio
had just been turned on so could not have been up to 60C temp
indicated.
Never use more than 35 watts power as I drive an amp all the time,

Thanks  73 Merv K9FD/KH6

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Re: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Connect a "grain-of-wheat" light bulb across the unused coax and gradually 
increase transmit power.


I know this is a rather un-scientific, crude test, but simply put, you're in 
big trouble when it glows!


I tried this with a 600 foot Beverage that is, at it's closest point,  50 
feet from any transmit antenna.  On some bands, I could run a kW but  on 
others bands,  the bulb was bright at 150 watts out  I now have a Collins 
"RF Overload Protector"  (622-0908-001) permanently in the Beverage feed !


Better to use a GOOD antenna switch with published maximum isolation, or 
unplug the unused antenna.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: "Julie Royster" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2014 11:06 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage


Thanks to those who wrote me privately as well as those who replied on 
this

list (KL7UW and  K4NH ) regarding the possibility of damage to one radio
from another radio transmitting on a nearby antenna.  For the benefit of 
all

I am pasting below highlights of the useful information I received.
MANY THANKS!  I learned a LOT from you kind folks.
Julie KT4JR


Dick at Elecraft said:
"At 5 watts it's usually not a problem, at 450 watts, you want to have a 
bit

of room (maybe hundreds of feet) between antennas.  The radios have some
protection from overdrive.  Carefully planned with antennas end to end or
facing different direction with enough space it's possible to share a band
with multiple K3s.  But if the antennas are coupling sufficiently, it can 
be

destructive to the front ends of the radios.  I can't offer any guidance
better than you've receive thus far. Every multioperator contest or Field
Day station has to deal with this problem, and there are solutions, but 
they

require some effort, either bandpass filters to keep energy from nearby
transmitters on other bands, or antenna placement planning, or some
combination."

AB9CA/4 said:
"There are certain orientations which might allow simultaneous operation 
of

the two stations. If one antenna is a vertical and it can be placed on a
line perpendicular to the mid-point of the Vee you should be OK. This is
when the base of the vertical lies on the vertical part of a 'T' 
arrangement

with the Vee forming the horizontal top of the 'T' (looking down from the
air). Place them as far apart as possible. There is minimum interaction in
this configuration. With chokes in place and proper dress of the feedlines
you could get maybe 60 dB of isolation between them...

(On Field Day) Our club has used two stations on the same band, usually 
20m,

with success. One on CW the other on Phone.  We did it with two wires
arranged as I mentioned earlier, in the 'T' configuration.

Especially note that damage can occur even if one rig is turned off.
The antenna is still connected internally with power off. To be certain of
avoiding damage it is best to disconnect the antenna from any rig not in
use. And when you connect them be certain of what band the other station 
is

on (and make sure you are not on it!)."



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[Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

[Julie Royster]

Thanks to those who wrote me privately as well as those who replied on this
list (KL7UW and  K4NH ) regarding the possibility of damage to one radio
from another radio transmitting on a nearby antenna.  For the benefit of all
I am pasting below highlights of the useful information I received.
MANY THANKS!  I learned a LOT from you kind folks.
Julie KT4JR


Dick at Elecraft said:
"At 5 watts it's usually not a problem, at 450 watts, you want to have a bit
of room (maybe hundreds of feet) between antennas.  The radios have some
protection from overdrive.  Carefully planned with antennas end to end or
facing different direction with enough space it's possible to share a band
with multiple K3s.  But if the antennas are coupling sufficiently, it can be
destructive to the front ends of the radios.  I can't offer any guidance
better than you've receive thus far. Every multioperator contest or Field
Day station has to deal with this problem, and there are solutions, but they
require some effort, either bandpass filters to keep energy from nearby
transmitters on other bands, or antenna placement planning, or some
combination."

AB9CA/4 said:
"There are certain orientations which might allow simultaneous operation of
the two stations. If one antenna is a vertical and it can be placed on a
line perpendicular to the mid-point of the Vee you should be OK. This is
when the base of the vertical lies on the vertical part of a 'T' arrangement
with the Vee forming the horizontal top of the 'T' (looking down from the
air). Place them as far apart as possible. There is minimum interaction in
this configuration. With chokes in place and proper dress of the feedlines
you could get maybe 60 dB of isolation between them...

(On Field Day) Our club has used two stations on the same band, usually 20m,
with success. One on CW the other on Phone.  We did it with two wires
arranged as I mentioned earlier, in the 'T' configuration.

Especially note that damage can occur even if one rig is turned off. 
The antenna is still connected internally with power off. To be certain of
avoiding damage it is best to disconnect the antenna from any rig not in
use. And when you connect them be certain of what band the other station is
on (and make sure you are not on it!)."



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Re: [Elecraft] "ant err pr flt" error message?? also antenna adjacency problem??

[Stan Gibbs, KR7C]

If you want to understand the inter-radio interference issues you face, the
potential for damage they may cause, techniques to measure their magnitude,
and measures you can take to minimize them, I suggest you get a copy of
"Managing Interstation Interference" by George Cutsogeorge, W2VJN.  It is
available on the web from Inrad.

There is a very useful section toward the back about using the station
radios themselves to measure the interference.




-
73, Stan - KR7C
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[Elecraft] Firmware update question

[Tim Cook]

During a recent firmware update of a new (to me) K3/100,  I noticed a brief 
message scroll across the screen indicating a PA Error. If I recall correctly 
it occurred during the DSP update. I rarely look at the computer or radio when 
updating an Elecraft product until it's completed because it is always so 
reliable and seamless.

For some reason this just caught my eye. Now, after the update completed 
everything is working fine no problems that I can detect. 

I am just curious if this was an indication of a problem of some kind or just 
an inconsequential indication of some sort during updating.

Thanks
Tim
NZ8J






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Re: [Elecraft] Rising current on Tx (K3)

[Iain G4SGX]

Hi Thanks for all the suggestions.

I cannot re-create the effect on any other band but 10M.

I have checked the PSU and its voltage O/P is stable @13.8V ish, (read 
on the K3)


Although I shall stick some ferrites on the leads and keep my fingers 
crossed, (I am some way from my antenna) I suspect a failing component 
under stress, hopefully coax or balun and not a PA component..



Time will tell, thanks for your advice.

73  Iain G4SGX



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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

[XE3/K5ENS]

The TE Systems 1452G is a great amp but it takes a large power supply.  If
you want to keep it simple and only need around 100 watts the Mirage B-310-G
is a good choice.


Keith, XE3/K5ENS



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[Elecraft] K3 Wanted at a bargain price.

[Larry Lopez]

I suppose an old base K3 in an opened box for good discount would do.




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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I would suggest the TE Systems 1452G.

Same here on the K144XV power out.  6 - 8 watts max which is fine for this 
amplifier.


I have found that all the TES amps don't need anywhere near their rated max 
input to achieve full output.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Eberle" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?


I use a Mirage B-310-G with my K144XV. It is rated at 3W in 100W out, but 
the power curve on Mirage's website goes up to 8W in with 100W+ out.  My 
K144XV only puts out about 7-8 watts so I have never had any problems with 
over driving it.


Mike
KI0HA


On 4/15/2014 8:26 PM, Harry_Yingst wrote:

I installed the internal 2 meter module in my K3 so now I'm in the
market for a good Amplifier to bring it up to at least 100 watts.

The K3 puts out 10 watts so the amp needs to be 10 Watts input

Any Suggestions?

Thank you







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