[Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi all,

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.

The reason it's so low is that we've converted all of our lighting to LED. (LED 
bulbs that consume 10 W yet have 60 W equivalent light output relative to 
incandescents are getting remarkably cheap -- 3 for $10 at Home Depot.) 
Consumption goes up when we use the electric range, etc., but that's 
infrequent, and I don't mind paying the city at such times. As for the radios, 
I run 10 W more often than 100 W, and the computers don't use much, either. 

So I figure we could run the house from a 500- to 600-W array most of the time. 
Other requirements:

- I'd like to forego feed-in to the power grid. We don't need to watch our 
meter turn backwards, and with a small array it would turn pretty slowly 
anyway. But I do want city power in parallel when we exceed solar array 
capability.

- I want a backup battery that's sufficient to hold us for a couple of days 
during a blackout. Every once in awhile on a really hot day, city power 
consumption exceeds what's available, and a transformer blows somewhere. Very 
entertaining until you have to go buy ice for the fridge.

Systems that meet the above requirements seem to cost a lot more than the sum 
of the parts. So what I'm looking for is a good source of roll-your-own-solar 
info. I'll hire an electrician to wire up the solar system in parallel with the 
city supply, but I could purchase the components and do most of the 
installation myself.

Any suggestions? Please contact me off-list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR







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[Elecraft] K3 line question

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

Hello

 

I think I must setup MIC for LINE no more than 12 for RTTY, right?

 

I cannot TX with this setting, my K3 started transmitting with line = 22

 

Is that a problem? I see 6 full bars in ALC

 

New on RTTY and don´t want to have a bad signal, will try to make some QSO´s
this weekend

 

73,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Oliver Dröse]

Please don't start another off-topic thread, guys! Wayne requested 
responses off-list ...


Thanks,
Olli

Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de


Am 25.09.2015 um 19:01 schrieb Jim McDonald:

60W equivalent LEDs are $3 for a pack of three at Costco in the Chicago area 
due to an instant rebate from ComEd, the area power company.  I really like 
them, so I need to find a home for my inventory of CFLs.

Jim N7US
Sent from my iPad


On Sep 25, 2015, at 10:33 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

Hi all,

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.

The reason it's so low is that we've converted all of our lighting to LED. (LED 
bulbs that consume 10 W yet have 60 W equivalent light output relative to 
incandescents are getting remarkably cheap -- 3 for $10 at Home Depot.) 
Consumption goes up when we use the electric range, etc., but that's 
infrequent, and I don't mind paying the city at such times. As for the radios, 
I run 10 W more often than 100 W, and the computers don't use much, either.

So I figure we could run the house from a 500- to 600-W array most of the time. 
Other requirements:

- I'd like to forego feed-in to the power grid. We don't need to watch our 
meter turn backwards, and with a small array it would turn pretty slowly 
anyway. But I do want city power in parallel when we exceed solar array 
capability.

- I want a backup battery that's sufficient to hold us for a couple of days 
during a blackout. Every once in awhile on a really hot day, city power 
consumption exceeds what's available, and a transformer blows somewhere. Very 
entertaining until you have to go buy ice for the fridge.

Systems that meet the above requirements seem to cost a lot more than the sum 
of the parts. So what I'm looking for is a good source of roll-your-own-solar 
info. I'll hire an electrician to wire up the solar system in parallel with the 
city supply, but I could purchase the components and do most of the 
installation myself.

Any suggestions? Please contact me off-list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Roger D Johnson]

On further thought, you can use a 12 volt system with boost/buck converter to 
ensure
constant voltage to the K3.

On 9/25/2015 4:05 PM, Roger D Johnson wrote:
A possible solution is a 24 volt system. The solar panels are available as are 
24 to 12

volt solid state converters.

73, Roger


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 line question

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

Thanks Don

Was the VOX very low, at 5. Now I have VOX GAIN in 15 and K3 LINE in 5 and I
have 4-5 bars in ALC

Thanks!
Jorge


-Mensaje original-
De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Enviado el: viernes, 25 de septiembre de 2015 05:15 p.m.
Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 line question

Jorge,

The soundcard output level and the K3 LINE IN level work "hand in hand".
I would increase the soundcard line out level in your computer and decrease
the K3 LINE setting.
6 bars is too much for data modes - strive for 4 bars with the 5th bar
flickering.
If you are increasing  the mic gain in order to get VOX to trip, you do not
have your VOX gain set high enough.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/25/2015 1:25 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
> Hello
>
>   
>
> I think I must setup MIC for LINE no more than 12 for RTTY, right?
>
>   
>
> I cannot TX with this setting, my K3 started transmitting with line = 
> 22
>
>   
>
> Is that a problem? I see 6 full bars in ALC
>
>   
>
> New on RTTY and don´t want to have a bad signal, will try to make some 
> QSO´s this weekend
>
>   
>
> 73,
>
> Jorge
>
> CX6VM/CW5W
>
>
>
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> w3...@embarqmail.com
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 line question

[Don Wilhelm]

Jorge,

The soundcard output level and the K3 LINE IN level work "hand in hand".
I would increase the soundcard line out level in your computer and 
decrease the K3 LINE setting.
6 bars is too much for data modes - strive for 4 bars with the 5th bar 
flickering.
If you are increasing  the mic gain in order to get VOX to trip, you do 
not have your VOX gain set high enough.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/25/2015 1:25 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

Hello

  


I think I must setup MIC for LINE no more than 12 for RTTY, right?

  


I cannot TX with this setting, my K3 started transmitting with line = 22

  


Is that a problem? I see 6 full bars in ALC

  


New on RTTY and don´t want to have a bad signal, will try to make some QSO´s
this weekend

  


73,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Roger D Johnson]

A possible solution is a 24 volt system. The solar panels are available as are 
24 to 12

volt solid state converters.

73, Roger


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[Elecraft] K3: Roofing Filter

[John Reilly]

Has the 200 Hz, 5-pole roofing filter (KFL3A-200) been discontinued?
Thanks,
  - 73, John, N0TA
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack,

[Fred Meier]

hi Wayne.
I just read your post about wanting to try a limited power solar array with 
much interest. I think is is a brilliant idea. Here are a few initial thoughts 
which I also had to consider when planning my own backup power.

I built a parallel capable switching array into my last home. What I found to 
be vitally important in my installation was the need to automate the transfer 
of power sources for safety first and convenience second. 
My greatest initial expense went into the acquisition and permitted 
installation of an ASCO automatic transfer switch. My electrician and the 
electrical code insisted that this was necessary to protect the utility 
personnel who would have to work on whatever caused the grid to fail in the 
first place. While I understand the operation of these things, I not only hired 
a qualified electrician to hook it up, but I took out every permit necessary 
for the work so that the installation was legal, and equally importantly, that 
my insurance carrier would have no excuses should the unthinkable happen. Just 
a thought.

There are manual means to transfer between utility and solar power but they are 
ponderous and inconvenient. They are also potentially hazardous if not executed 
with absolute diligence.

I trust this gives you a little grist for the mill as you begin to explore your 
project’s feasibility further.
Stand alone systems that do not parallel with the utility are much easier to 
deploy but they require redundant wiring and are difficult to make attractive 
(hidden from view so that She who makes the rules will approve.)

I will watch this topic with interest since most participants just cannot take 
these things off of the forum.
Cheers, Fred VE7FMN
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,9/25/2015 8:33 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.


Sticking with the original title of supplying only lighting, computers, 
and shack, I'll provide some general information that may help you think 
about designing a suitable system. My QTH is in a clearing surrounded by 
very tall redwoods, so an array of solar panels doesn't get a lot of 
illumination. As a result, I've made no effort to run 120V gear from it.


My system is pretty simple. It starts with four 55W panels retrieved 
from the dumpster at an agency where a neighbor ham maintained remote 
instrumentation sites. Because of the shadows cast by the trees, I have 
two strapped together and located to catch the sun before noon, the 
other two for the end of the day.


I use a Genasun MPPT charge controller between the panels and a pair of 
Trojan 6V 220 Ah lead-acid batteries. This system runs everything in my 
shack with the exception of the computers, the rotators, the SteppIR 
controllers, and my power amps. For lighting, I'm using the LED strips 
sold by a Pacificon vendor. Four strips taped to the ceiling provide 
illumination that's adequate for operating in the shack, and draw about 
1.2A. The low power 120V stuff is connected to a small UPS. Because the 
draw VERY little current, a UPS can keep up for quite a while.


If I want to run power during a power failure, I can fire up the Honda 
2000i.


The downside of this system is that the lead-acid batteries discharge 
curve starts around 12.5V and goes down below 11V for full capacity. 
That's fine for a KX3, but not great for a K3. The batteries cost me 
about $240, the Genesun about $120. The Genesun is available in several 
voltage and current ranges, and for both lead-acid and several Li 
chemistries. Buy direct from Genesun.


This system can yield 33Ah or more during the summer half of the year, 
but dips to MUCH less during the winter months. Also, if I want to 
contest with the K3s, I need a lot more power than I can get from this 
system, and I'd like higher voltage to keep the signal cleaner (those 
reading the mail may not know that the IMD in the K3 is lowest at high 
DC supply voltage).


So -- for contesting, and during the winter months, I must float charge 
the batteries from a small regulated supply.  10A is enough to keep up 
with a single K3 at 100W, but 20A is needed for heavy duty SO2R.


Because of their relatively low voltage discharge curve and the K3's 
need for higher voltage, I'm searching for battery chemistry with a 
discharge curve that stays above at least 12V, and higher would be 
better. There are some Li chemistries that are candidates, but cost is 
currently prohibitive.


If you have enough batteries and enough sun, you can start thinking 
about inverters to run your fridge and other 120V stuff when the power 
drops. Samlex has models for several power ratings, and two lines -- one 
that meets FCC Part 15 Class B, and another that does not. Appliances 
like refrigerators require a lot more current to start than to run. 
There are refrigerators specifically designed to run on DC for 
off-the-grid homes.


Samsung makes both computer monitors and TVs that run from a nominal 
14V. I'm running their monitors from my 12V system, and they work fine. 
My cable modem and wi-fi router both run from 12V; they're not in the 
shack, so I run them from a  sealed 12V lead-acid cell that is float 
charged by a linear wall wart that gives it a bit more than the gear 
draws. The result is a poor-man's UPS that holds internet up longer than 
Comcast does. :)  Batteries for their fiber electronics repeaters are 
rated for 6 hours of operation, and it's common for power failures here 
in the Santa Cruz  Mountains to last a LOT longer. And they want to sell 
me a package telephone service? No thanks.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] FS KAT 100-2 100 watt tuner kit NIB with all extras

[Alan Geller via Elecraft]

This allows the K2 100 watt amp/tuner upgrade to reside in an external matching 
box


- KAT 100-2 Kit NIB  
- EC2 ENCLOSURE NIB w/o un-needed front panel ( NEW REQUIRED PANELS ARE IN THE 
KAT100-2 KIT)
- ETS-15 EC2 TILT STAND NIB
- PRE-WOUND TOROIDS FROM Toroid guy Elecraft partner in original package

New price for all above is around $380; selling package for $225

Alan/K6ADG


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[Elecraft] Heil ProSet 7 with K3S

[Byron Peebles]

Has anyone real experience with the ProSet 7 and the K3S?
My vintage ProSet is making noises in one ear and I wonder how good the 
Pro7 is with SSB and CW.


72, Byron

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Re: [Elecraft] experience with CW and settings

[Phil Anderson]

Hi Gerald, KC6CNN,

Like most folks, I live in a suburban area so my noise level is high for 
40 and 30 meters compared to those lucky folks living in rural areas.
Living just two blocks for a shopping center doesn't help! For me 
turning on the AFT filter is helpful in reducing background noise (both 
random and close in signals during contests); tuning is then a bit tight 
but using three digits showing for fractions of a kHz makes it 
manageable. I leave the RF gain fully on. To reduce noise levels in 
general (which helps with CW too) I added a second receiver (SUB RX in 
K3), attached it to a 20-meter Beverage antenna via the AUX antenna 
input option and turned on the DIVERSITY MODE RX feature. With these 
additions, the K3 does a better job with the CW decode as well, although 
I seldom look at that any more. If you like, I'll send you a writeup on 
my 20-meter beverage; I wound my own cores for the 450 to 50 ohm 
matching transformer. To my surprise - with just 70 feet of back fence 
room, I gained over 2 S units for S/N, as noted on my P3 with I hook up 
the beverage to that for testing.


73, Phil, W0XI, Lawrence, KS.







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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Jim McDonald]

60W equivalent LEDs are $3 for a pack of three at Costco in the Chicago area 
due to an instant rebate from ComEd, the area power company.  I really like 
them, so I need to find a home for my inventory of CFLs.

Jim N7US
Sent from my iPad


On Sep 25, 2015, at 10:33 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

Hi all,

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.

The reason it's so low is that we've converted all of our lighting to LED. (LED 
bulbs that consume 10 W yet have 60 W equivalent light output relative to 
incandescents are getting remarkably cheap -- 3 for $10 at Home Depot.) 
Consumption goes up when we use the electric range, etc., but that's 
infrequent, and I don't mind paying the city at such times. As for the radios, 
I run 10 W more often than 100 W, and the computers don't use much, either. 

So I figure we could run the house from a 500- to 600-W array most of the time. 
Other requirements:

- I'd like to forego feed-in to the power grid. We don't need to watch our 
meter turn backwards, and with a small array it would turn pretty slowly 
anyway. But I do want city power in parallel when we exceed solar array 
capability.

- I want a backup battery that's sufficient to hold us for a couple of days 
during a blackout. Every once in awhile on a really hot day, city power 
consumption exceeds what's available, and a transformer blows somewhere. Very 
entertaining until you have to go buy ice for the fridge.

Systems that meet the above requirements seem to cost a lot more than the sum 
of the parts. So what I'm looking for is a good source of roll-your-own-solar 
info. I'll hire an electrician to wire up the solar system in parallel with the 
city supply, but I could purchase the components and do most of the 
installation myself.

Any suggestions? Please contact me off-list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Jim Finan]

Try backwoodssolar.com They have a variety of things for off-grid as well as 
grid-tied. Lots of good info on the website as well.

Jim Finan
AB4AC 
jimfi...@att.net
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
  Original Message  
From: Wayne Burdick
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2015 12:26 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, 
computers, and lighting

Hi all,

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.

The reason it's so low is that we've converted all of our lighting to LED. (LED 
bulbs that consume 10 W yet have 60 W equivalent light output relative to 
incandescents are getting remarkably cheap -- 3 for $10 at Home Depot.) 
Consumption goes up when we use the electric range, etc., but that's 
infrequent, and I don't mind paying the city at such times. As for the radios, 
I run 10 W more often than 100 W, and the computers don't use much, either. 

So I figure we could run the house from a 500- to 600-W array most of the time. 
Other requirements:

- I'd like to forego feed-in to the power grid. We don't need to watch our 
meter turn backwards, and with a small array it would turn pretty slowly 
anyway. But I do want city power in parallel when we exceed solar array 
capability.

- I want a backup battery that's sufficient to hold us for a couple of days 
during a blackout. Every once in awhile on a really hot day, city power 
consumption exceeds what's available, and a transformer blows somewhere. Very 
entertaining until you have to go buy ice for the fridge.

Systems that meet the above requirements seem to cost a lot more than the sum 
of the parts. So what I'm looking for is a good source of roll-your-own-solar 
info. I'll hire an electrician to wire up the solar system in parallel with the 
city supply, but I could purchase the components and do most of the 
installation myself.

Any suggestions? Please contact me off-list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR







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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Hello Wayne,
First, to really get a handle on your power usage, get one of the power 
monitors.  Like UPM model EM100.  It is a plug in 120 vac monitor that reads 
voltage, power being consumed, you put in the cost per KW and it calculates the 
$ usage.  It was a eye opener for some of the appliances, computer, servers, 
lights etc.  Not withstanding the electric range I assume everything else is 
plug in except the LED lights, you can calculate that in your head.  Anyway 
that will give you a start on what your total house load is sans the stove.  

There are solar calculators on line that will take that info and when you give 
them your long and lat, will calculate the worse case winter solar power needs. 
 As for me, the 100 w radio, computer and LED lights here are running nicely on 
a 85 w panel and a 140 Ah battery for normal SSB use.  No I don't contest with 
it only, and yes I have a booster charger as standby.  

Just a different approach.  

  From: Jim McDonald 
 To: Wayne Burdick  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Friday, September 25, 2015 10:01 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, 
computers, and lighting
   
60W equivalent LEDs are $3 for a pack of three at Costco in the Chicago area 
due to an instant rebate from ComEd, the area power company.  I really like 
them, so I need to find a home for my inventory of CFLs.

Jim N7US
Sent from my iPad


On Sep 25, 2015, at 10:33 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

Hi all,

Some of our friends are putting in large solar arrays that feed power back into 
the electrical grid. I'm looking for something smaller and simpler since our 
electricity use is very low overall.

The reason it's so low is that we've converted all of our lighting to LED. (LED 
bulbs that consume 10 W yet have 60 W equivalent light output relative to 
incandescents are getting remarkably cheap -- 3 for $10 at Home Depot.) 
Consumption goes up when we use the electric range, etc., but that's 
infrequent, and I don't mind paying the city at such times. As for the radios, 
I run 10 W more often than 100 W, and the computers don't use much, either. 

So I figure we could run the house from a 500- to 600-W array most of the time. 
Other requirements:

- I'd like to forego feed-in to the power grid. We don't need to watch our 
meter turn backwards, and with a small array it would turn pretty slowly 
anyway. But I do want city power in parallel when we exceed solar array 
capability.

- I want a backup battery that's sufficient to hold us for a couple of days 
during a blackout. Every once in awhile on a really hot day, city power 
consumption exceeds what's available, and a transformer blows somewhere. Very 
entertaining until you have to go buy ice for the fridge.

Systems that meet the above requirements seem to cost a lot more than the sum 
of the parts. So what I'm looking for is a good source of roll-your-own-solar 
info. I'll hire an electrician to wire up the solar system in parallel with the 
city supply, but I could purchase the components and do most of the 
installation myself.

Any suggestions? Please contact me off-list.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Heil ProSet 7 with K3S

[d...@lightstream.net]

Byron,

I use the Heil ProSet7 with my K3, and it works very well.

On the earphone side, I think the drivers are optimized for
communications, and that is fine. They are very sensitive, and I rarely
operate with the AF gain beyond about 9 o'clock unless I close down the
filters in CW mode. The passive noise-reduction via the fit of the ear
pads is outstanding. I can barely hear when the KPA500 fan commences to
roaring.

Regarding the microphone, I went with the HC7 dynamic over the iC electret
element because the HC7 seemed to me to have better built-in EQ that would
be favorable for good communications audio, than the iC. The HC7 requires
a bit more gain, but the K3 can easily provide it. I connect via the
front-panel Mic connector on the K3, and use the built-in K3 mic preamp
for the front panel microphone connector that is accessible via the menu
options: Menu > MIC SEL : FP.L (with the preamp engaged by pressing the
"7" keypad key while in the above mode. I find that a front-panel "Mic"
setting of about 50 works very well, and I generally use a front-panel
compression setting (CMP) of about 18. Close-talking the microphone will
probably be required, unless you naturally speak loudly. I do not.

As a starting point for the EQ, I would suggest that you begin with the
following settings:
1  -16
2  -9
3  -4
4  -6
5  -2
6  +5
7  +10
8  +10

The resulting tx audio is very articulate, and sounds good to my ear and
evidently to others who had commented favorably on the audio quality
without being asked. I happen to be a big fan of the Heil HC5 element,
which sadly, is no longer being manufactured, and with some significant
EQ, this HC7 can be made to sound pretty similar. This is a very
subjective topic though, so some experimentation is in order for your
particular voice and personal preferences.

Have fun!

73,
Dale, WA8SRA







I went with the
> Has anyone real experience with the ProSet 7 and the K3S?
> My vintage ProSet is making noises in one ear and I wonder how good the
> Pro7 is with SSB and CW.
>
> 72, Byron
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Roofing Filter

[Wayne Burdick]

As I mentioned earlier, we're considering various alternatives.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 25, 2015, at 3:20 PM, Kevin Stover  wrote:

> Yep.
> INRAD isn't making/selling  them anymore either so 250Hz is as tight as you 
> can go until/if Elecraft comes up with a suitable replacement. I'm not 
> holding my breath.
> 
> 
> On 9/25/2015 3:28 PM, John Reilly wrote:
>> Has the 200 Hz, 5-pole roofing filter (KFL3A-200) been discontinued?
>> Thanks,
>>  - 73, John, N0TA
>> _


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Jim Lowman]

Yes, Wayne did so and I obliged, asking him to post a summary of the 
replies that he receives.
One function of mailing lists like this is to share information. This is 
a topic that I don't recall being discussed here.


I disagree that the thread is off-topic in the first place.
It deals with power for the shack, presumably to power Elecraft equipment.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

Letting Eric handle the list management.  I don't think he needs any help.

On 9/25/2015 11:14 AM, Oliver Dröse wrote:
Please don't start another off-topic thread, guys! Wayne requested 
responses off-list ...


Thanks,
Olli


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[Wayne Burdick]

I received many helpful replies on my quasi-off-topic post. Once I've digested 
it all and have something meaningful in the way of a summary, I'll send an 
update. 

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 25, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:

> Yes, Wayne did so and I obliged, asking him to post a summary of the replies 
> that he receives.
> One function of mailing lists like this is to share information. This is a 
> topic that I don't recall being discussed here.
> 
> I disagree that the thread is off-topic in the first place.
> It deals with power for the shack, presumably to power Elecraft equipment.
> 
> 73 de Jim - AD6CW
> 
> Letting Eric handle the list management.  I don't think he needs any help.
> 
> On 9/25/2015 11:14 AM, Oliver Dröse wrote:
>> Please don't start another off-topic thread, guys! Wayne requested responses 
>> off-list ...
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Olli
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Roofing Filter

[Kevin Stover]

Yep.
INRAD isn't making/selling  them anymore either so 250Hz is as tight as 
you can go until/if Elecraft comes up with a suitable replacement. I'm 
not holding my breath.



On 9/25/2015 3:28 PM, John Reilly wrote:

Has the 200 Hz, 5-pole roofing filter (KFL3A-200) been discontinued?
Thanks,
  - 73, John, N0TA
_



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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[Elecraft] Free: Diamond VHF/UHF Base Station Antenna for pick-up

[Howard Ashcraft]

I have a Diamond high gain base station antenna (“N” connection) located in 
Alameda, California.  It currently has a length of Andrews 1/2 coax connected 
and I have a spare Andrews “N” connector that you may have if you want to use 
the Andrews cable.  (Andrews cable is a very low loss cable used in commercial 
cellular sites.)  It is free for whoever wants to pick it up.

73
W1WF


Howard Ashcraft
hwashcr...@gmail.com





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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Small solar array to handle just the shack, computers, and lighting

[David Cole]

Wayne,
Does this mane you will be developing the phase canceling RFI remover
what was discussed here a few months ago?  Kidding of course...
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
For Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
For MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2015-09-25 at 15:04 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> I received many helpful replies on my quasi-off-topic post. Once I've 
> digested it all and have something meaningful in the way of a summary, I'll 
> send an update. 
> 
> tnx
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Sep 25, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:
> 
> > Yes, Wayne did so and I obliged, asking him to post a summary of the 
> > replies that he receives.
> > One function of mailing lists like this is to share information. This is a 
> > topic that I don't recall being discussed here.
> > 
> > I disagree that the thread is off-topic in the first place.
> > It deals with power for the shack, presumably to power Elecraft equipment.
> > 
> > 73 de Jim - AD6CW
> > 
> > Letting Eric handle the list management.  I don't think he needs any help.
> > 
> > On 9/25/2015 11:14 AM, Oliver Dröse wrote:
> >> Please don't start another off-topic thread, guys! Wayne requested 
> >> responses off-list ...
> >> 
> >> Thanks,
> >> Olli
> > 
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[Elecraft] Connections for K3S, P3 Revisited

[Byron Peebles]

I have had the K3S, KAT500 and KPA500 connected and configured.
All units are connected to the computer via USB so I can use the 
appropriate Utility.


Now, when I try to connect the P3 to the K3S there is this behavior.  I 
can only use the USB *or* the RJ45 serial.  Once I connect to the RJ-45 
serial, the USB is disconnected at the K3S and I lose access to the COM 
port(s).


I am guessing there is no value to the RJ-45 port once I decide to use 
USB, and I should use the USB-DB9 connector to connect the P3 to my PC 
for the P3 Utility.


I thought I had seen something where the PC connected through the K3S or 
P3 to the otyher, but I can't find that documented so I think it's 
recovered childhood memory.


In summary, I expect to connect PC-to-P3 via USB-DB9 and have only the 
DC-power and IF-BNC between the K3S and the P3.  DO I HAVE THAT CORRECT?


73, Byron

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Roofing Filter

[Jerry Moore]

I just purchased my K3s and had gotten the 400hz 8 pole from the reflector
here. I've been very happy to find the DSP filtering goes down to what
appears to be 50hz and works VERY WELL so far for me. Of course I've not
been under CW contest type conditions but haven't had any issues filtering
between two close signals. 
Just sharing my experiences as a new owner.



Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
An Amatuer is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2015 7:06 PM
To: Kevin Stover
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Roofing Filter

As I mentioned earlier, we're considering various alternatives.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 25, 2015, at 3:20 PM, Kevin Stover 
wrote:

> Yep.
> INRAD isn't making/selling  them anymore either so 250Hz is as tight as
you can go until/if Elecraft comes up with a suitable replacement. I'm not
holding my breath.
> 
> 
> On 9/25/2015 3:28 PM, John Reilly wrote:
>> Has the 200 Hz, 5-pole roofing filter (KFL3A-200) been discontinued?
>> Thanks,
>>  - 73, John, N0TA
>> _


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Utility Not Working - Not Resolved

[Bill Wiehe via Elecraft]

As an up date, I ordered a new KXUSB cable but the computer still does not 
recognize the KAT500. The original 'COM PORT' that was used prior to all this 
issue is gone and I am unable to find it. I have managed to work through all 
the steps from uninstalling and reinstalling the program and utility as well 
and rebooting the computer with the cable both in and out, etc. For whatever 
reason the computer simply does not recognize the KAT500. The KAT500 keeps 
defaulting to the port occupied by the KPA500 utility. In doing so the COM PORT 
will not recognize the KAT500.   Looking for additional suggestions. Thanks in 
advance,Bill - W0BBI
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Re: [Elecraft] experience with CW and settings

[Ken]

Phil,

don't assume rural areas are quiet!   I sometimes have S9+ power line 
noise and we are rural (internet and TV via satellite) , nearest 
neighbor is a half mile away and down over the hill.  I've traced the 
noise to the power line feeding the farm (main breakers off, K3 running 
on battery.)


Ken WA8JXM

On 9/25/15 12:41 PM, Phil Anderson wrote:
I live in a suburban area so my noise level is high for 40 and 30 
meters compared to those lucky folks living in rural areas. 


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Re: [Elecraft] experience with CW and settings

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Correct.   Just try living across the highway from the farmer that 
sections off his pasture with an electric fence.  Plus when one is in a 
quiet location every little peep, burp, ding, buzz and humm becomes 
noticeable.  In other words "there isn't a free lunch".



73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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Re: [Elecraft] experience with CW and settings

[Dale Putnam]

hmmm.. I have an electric fence, keeps my own horses in.. and without the NB 
on, in the K2..  
I can check to see if it is turned on... or not.. especially on 160/80 and 40.. 
however.. with the loop,
directly above the fence... all I have to do is turn on the NB..  away goes the 
pop, pop, pop.
I'd have horses out all the time without the NB.

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 
> Correct.   Just try living across the highway from the farmer that 
> sections off his pasture with an electric fence.  Plus when one is in a 
> quiet location every little peep, burp, ding, buzz and humm becomes 
> noticeable.  In other words "there isn't a free lunch".
> 
> 
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> K3S s/n 10,163
>
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Utility Not Working - Not Resolved

[Byron Peebles]

I've gone through a bit of this under Windows 10.

Open DEVICE MANAGER and the PORTS device listing.  This is in 
Settings->System->About->Device Manager.


Connect your cable to the KAT500.  You should hear a beep and see the 
device appear.  That is the COM.


The ports are 38400 and the COM might come up a 9600, so you change the 
settings to 38400.


If you computer confuses the KPA and KAT and you KNOW they are 
different, I'd suggest you add a good quality USB powered hub and 
connect through it.  I have a pretty good computer and I've had to 
attach eight external powered USB3 Hub ports to it for stability.


73, Byron

On 09/25/2015 09:09 PM, Bill Wiehe via Elecraft wrote:

As an up date, I ordered a new KXUSB cable but the computer still does not 
recognize the KAT500. The original 'COM PORT' that was used prior to all this 
issue is gone and I am unable to find it. I have managed to work through all 
the steps from uninstalling and reinstalling the program and utility as well 
and rebooting the computer with the cable both in and out, etc. For whatever 
reason the computer simply does not recognize the KAT500. The KAT500 keeps 
defaulting to the port occupied by the KPA500 utility. In doing so the COM PORT 
will not recognize the KAT500.   Looking for additional suggestions. Thanks 
in advance,Bill - W0BBI
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Re: [Elecraft] experience with CW and settings

[mfsj]

Ken I had the same problem several yrs. ago on my farm. It was a transformer I 
called the CO OP ant shaped it out for me, no more noise now one S Unit To 2 at 
the most.
Fred N0AZZ

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S6 edge+, an AT 4G LTE smartphone 
Original message From: Ken  Date: 09/25/2015  8:26 PM 
 (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] experience 
with CW and settings 
Phil,

don't assume rural areas are quiet!   I sometimes have S9+ power line 
noise and we are rural (internet and TV via satellite) , nearest 
neighbor is a half mile away and down over the hill.  I've traced the 
noise to the power line feeding the farm (main breakers off, K3 running 
on battery.)

Ken WA8JXM

On 9/25/15 12:41 PM, Phil Anderson wrote:
> I live in a suburban area so my noise level is high for 40 and 30 
> meters compared to those lucky folks living in rural areas. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Connections for K3S, P3 Revisited

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

In summary, I expect to connect PC-to-P3 via USB-DB9 and have only
the DC-power and IF-BNC between the K3S and the P3. DO I HAVE THAT
CORRECT?


No.  If you plan to connect the computer to the K3S using the internal
USB port, you need to use the optional CBL3Y cable from Elecraft to
connect the P3 as documented on page 18 of the K3S Owner's Manual.

The alternative is to use the standard E98097 cable to connect P3 to
the K3S and connect the computer to the P3 PC jack using the K3USB
or a standard serial port a shown on page 19 of the K3S Owner's Manual.


73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 9/25/2015 9:29 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:

I have had the K3S, KAT500 and KPA500 connected and configured.
All units are connected to the computer via USB so I can use the
appropriate Utility.

Now, when I try to connect the P3 to the K3S there is this behavior.  I
can only use the USB *or* the RJ45 serial.  Once I connect to the RJ-45
serial, the USB is disconnected at the K3S and I lose access to the COM
port(s).

I am guessing there is no value to the RJ-45 port once I decide to use
USB, and I should use the USB-DB9 connector to connect the P3 to my PC
for the P3 Utility.

I thought I had seen something where the PC connected through the K3S or
P3 to the otyher, but I can't find that documented so I think it's
recovered childhood memory.

In summary, I expect to connect PC-to-P3 via USB-DB9 and have only the
DC-power and IF-BNC between the K3S and the P3.  DO I HAVE THAT CORRECT?

73, Byron

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Re: [Elecraft] Connections for K3S, P3 Revisited

[Byron Peebles]

THis is what I did, but it seems to disable the K3S USB port.
I have the K3S RS232 setting set to USB; should that be 38400 instead?  
Would USB still work?


73, Byron

On 09/25/2015 09:58 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:



In summary, I expect to connect PC-to-P3 via USB-DB9 and have only
the DC-power and IF-BNC between the K3S and the P3. DO I HAVE THAT
CORRECT?


No.  If you plan to connect the computer to the K3S using the internal
USB port, you need to use the optional CBL3Y cable from Elecraft to
connect the P3 as documented on page 18 of the K3S Owner's Manual.


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Re: [Elecraft] Connections for K3S, P3 Revisited

[Don Wilhelm]

Byron,

See page 18 of the K3S manual for connection to the P3 if you are using 
the USB port on the K3S.
You must use the CBLP3Y cable between the K3S RJ-45 connector and the 
P3.  Note that the connector with 2 cables plugs into the XCVR DE-9 
connector on the P3.


If you are using a USB to RS-232 adapter between the computer and the 
P3/K3S, refer to the diagram on page 19 of the manual - connect the USB 
to RS-232 adapter to the P3 "PC" connector and connect the P3 XVTR 
connector to the K3S using the E980297 DE-9 to RJ-45 cable.


Read pages 18 through 20 of the K3S manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/25/2015 9:29 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:

I have had the K3S, KAT500 and KPA500 connected and configured.
All units are connected to the computer via USB so I can use the 
appropriate Utility.


Now, when I try to connect the P3 to the K3S there is this behavior.  
I can only use the USB *or* the RJ45 serial.  Once I connect to the 
RJ-45 serial, the USB is disconnected at the K3S and I lose access to 
the COM port(s).


I am guessing there is no value to the RJ-45 port once I decide to use 
USB, and I should use the USB-DB9 connector to connect the P3 to my PC 
for the P3 Utility.


I thought I had seen something where the PC connected through the K3S 
or P3 to the otyher, but I can't find that documented so I think it's 
recovered childhood memory.


In summary, I expect to connect PC-to-P3 via USB-DB9 and have only the 
DC-power and IF-BNC between the K3S and the P3.  DO I HAVE THAT CORRECT?


73, Byron

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Utility Not Working - Not Resolved

[Tom]

Hi
Google for hidden devices in windows device manager and follow the directions 
to clean up your serial ports. Once done, plug the cable into the computer and 
check which comport it is.
73 Tom
va2fsq.com

Sent from BlueMail



On Sep 25, 2015, 3:47 PM, at 3:47 PM, Byron Peebles  wrote:
>I've gone through a bit of this under Windows 10.
>
>Open DEVICE MANAGER and the PORTS device listing.  This is in 
>Settings->System->About->Device Manager.
>
>Connect your cable to the KAT500.  You should hear a beep and see the 
>device appear.  That is the COM.
>
>The ports are 38400 and the COM might come up a 9600, so you change the
>
>settings to 38400.
>
>If you computer confuses the KPA and KAT and you KNOW they are 
>different, I'd suggest you add a good quality USB powered hub and 
>connect through it.  I have a pretty good computer and I've had to 
>attach eight external powered USB3 Hub ports to it for stability.
>
>73, Byron
>
>On 09/25/2015 09:09 PM, Bill Wiehe via Elecraft wrote:
>> As an up date, I ordered a new KXUSB cable but the computer still
>does not recognize the KAT500. The original 'COM PORT' that was used
>prior to all this issue is gone and I am unable to find it. I have
>managed to work through all the steps from uninstalling and
>reinstalling the program and utility as well and rebooting the computer
>with the cable both in and out, etc. For whatever reason the computer
>simply does not recognize the KAT500. The KAT500 keeps defaulting to
>the port occupied by the KPA500 utility. In doing so the COM PORT will
>not recognize the KAT500. Â Â Looking for additional suggestions.Â
>Thanks in advance,Bill - W0BBI
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Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

[Edward R Cole]

Yep!

I lived in CA for ten years; LA and the Mojave (been there done 
that).  Some feel that way about Alaska.  Summer temps never over 
80F, and never water the lawn (nature does that well 
enough).  Everything is green all summer long (leaves now are turning 
gold as we are into fall and getting morning frosts).


And who can beat a state where they send you an annual check for 
$2072 just for living there?  Oct. 1st both my wife and I get one (if 
we had kids they would each get one).  No property tax on over 65; no 
state sales tax, no state income tax, and no covenants and 
restrictions on towers and antennas.  Fresh air everywhere!  And you 
can even ski out your front door in winter (no commuting to the 
mountains).  But the mosquitos are pretty big.


But I have been to Watsonville to their air show and its nice country 
(Santa Cruz nearby is also nice).  But you can keep LA and SF.  My 
favorite part of CA was the Sierra's above 9,000 feet.


PS: also glad I purchased my SYNTH boards and KPF3 kit for my K3 this week!

73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0600
From: "lmarion" 
To: ,
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

Clearly ones perception of heaven is subjective

AB7CE   Leroy in MONTANA



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 New kio board

[Edward R Cole]

Do not intend to upgrade either KIO3 or KXV3; I have the PR6-10 and 
the USB/RS232 works fine with line-in/out.
I did (this week) order two new SYN3A  for both main and sub-Rx for 
the lower phase noise; and the KBPF3 mod kit for use down on 630m.


http://www.kl7uw.com/about.htm
what home looks like all summer (top photo)

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

[Chris Hallinan]

I so envy your RF (clean) environment ;)

-K1AY

On Fri, Sep 25, 2015 at 4:20 AM, Edward R Cole  wrote:
> Yep!
>
> I lived in CA for ten years; LA and the Mojave (been there done that).  Some
> feel that way about Alaska.  Summer temps never over 80F, and never water
> the lawn (nature does that well enough).  Everything is green all summer
> long (leaves now are turning gold as we are into fall and getting morning
> frosts).
>
> And who can beat a state where they send you an annual check for $2072 just
> for living there?  Oct. 1st both my wife and I get one (if we had kids they
> would each get one).  No property tax on over 65; no state sales tax, no
> state income tax, and no covenants and restrictions on towers and antennas.
> Fresh air everywhere!  And you can even ski out your front door in winter
> (no commuting to the mountains).  But the mosquitos are pretty big.
>
> But I have been to Watsonville to their air show and its nice country (Santa
> Cruz nearby is also nice).  But you can keep LA and SF.  My favorite part of
> CA was the Sierra's above 9,000 feet.
>
> PS: also glad I purchased my SYNTH boards and KPF3 kit for my K3 this week!
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>
> Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0600
> From: "lmarion" 
> To: ,
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October
>
> Clearly ones perception of heaven is subjective
>
> AB7CE   Leroy in MONTANA
>
>
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
> http://www.kl7uw.com
> "Kits made by KL7UW"
> Dubus Mag business:
> dubus...@gmail.com
>
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> Message delivered to challi...@gmail.com



-- 
Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
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Re: [Elecraft] Another Elecraft price increase...

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Guys, This thread has been closed for some time. 

Further OT and political posts are inappropriate and in violation of list 
guidelines.  Please take those discussions to another forum, or to direct email 
between individuals. Not here.

73,

Eric
Moderator, COO etc.
elecraft.com
_..._

> On Sep 24, 2015, at 5:43 PM, Tom Fitzgerald via Elecraft 
>  wrote:

> Hm...again eh? Seems like everything is going up except wages for the 
> American worker. Seems they stopped going up ...
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Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

[Doug Turnbull]

Gentlemen,
Heaven is where your friends and heart reside, be that Ireland, Alaska,
California, Fiji, New Mexico or Maine.   New Jersey has some really
beautiful countryside and New York state has fabulous green national and
state parks.   Let us not be narrow minded about one state or another.
Life is good especially for Elecrafters.   Eric, Wayne and Kyle are
Californians.   Their families are in the state and their employees are
local.   I am more than certain they have a strong loyalty to family,
employees, customers and locale. 

 73 & Peace Doug EI2CN
 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: 25 September 2015 09:23
To: Edward R Cole; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

You live IN the perfect location.

Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Edward R Cole" 
Sent: ?25/?09/?2015 6:21 PM
To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

Yep!

I lived in CA for ten years; LA and the Mojave (been there done 
that).  Some feel that way about Alaska.  Summer temps never over 
80F, and never water the lawn (nature does that well 
enough).  Everything is green all summer long (leaves now are turning 
gold as we are into fall and getting morning frosts).

And who can beat a state where they send you an annual check for 
$2072 just for living there?  Oct. 1st both my wife and I get one (if 
we had kids they would each get one).  No property tax on over 65; no 
state sales tax, no state income tax, and no covenants and 
restrictions on towers and antennas.  Fresh air everywhere!  And you 
can even ski out your front door in winter (no commuting to the 
mountains).  But the mosquitos are pretty big.

But I have been to Watsonville to their air show and its nice country 
(Santa Cruz nearby is also nice).  But you can keep LA and SF.  My 
favorite part of CA was the Sierra's above 9,000 feet.

PS: also glad I purchased my SYNTH boards and KPF3 kit for my K3 this week!

73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0600
From: "lmarion" 
To: ,
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

Clearly ones perception of heaven is subjective

AB7CE   Leroy in MONTANA



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

[Gary]

You live IN the perfect location.

Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Edward R Cole" 
Sent: ‎25/‎09/‎2015 6:21 PM
To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

Yep!

I lived in CA for ten years; LA and the Mojave (been there done 
that).  Some feel that way about Alaska.  Summer temps never over 
80F, and never water the lawn (nature does that well 
enough).  Everything is green all summer long (leaves now are turning 
gold as we are into fall and getting morning frosts).

And who can beat a state where they send you an annual check for 
$2072 just for living there?  Oct. 1st both my wife and I get one (if 
we had kids they would each get one).  No property tax on over 65; no 
state sales tax, no state income tax, and no covenants and 
restrictions on towers and antennas.  Fresh air everywhere!  And you 
can even ski out your front door in winter (no commuting to the 
mountains).  But the mosquitos are pretty big.

But I have been to Watsonville to their air show and its nice country 
(Santa Cruz nearby is also nice).  But you can keep LA and SF.  My 
favorite part of CA was the Sierra's above 9,000 feet.

PS: also glad I purchased my SYNTH boards and KPF3 kit for my K3 this week!

73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0600
From: "lmarion" 
To: ,
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert for mid October

Clearly ones perception of heaven is subjective

AB7CE   Leroy in MONTANA



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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