[Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Fausto Coletti]

Hi all, 

I noticed a problem with N1MM + in CW.  
When I select a speed higher than 28-30wpm, the weighing between points and 
lines changes and, 
at 40wpm the transmitted message becomes incomprehensible. 
Any suggestions? 

73, Fausto IK4NMF 
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[Elecraft] Test, do not read

[Fausto Coletti]

Test
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

If you have a K3 with the old synthesizer, then you will have this 
problem with a paddle or with N1MM, or indeed with any source of CW. One 
solution is to activate QRQ mode (CONFIG CW QRQ = ON). There are some 
limitations, such as not being able to use it with SPLIT or RIT/XIT. The 
better solution is to buy the new synthesizer and replace it. In that 
case, if you have the second receiver, you need two synthesizers, which 
unfortunately will be expensive (especially in Europe).


The K3S comes with the new synthesizer.

I suggest you try sending with a paddle at the speed you want to use to 
determine if this is the cause.


There is also a problem with any computer-generated CW that it can be 
affected by other processes in the computer, especially if you are 
accessing the Internet for spots at the same time. The best solution for 
this is to get a Winkey device which will interface with N1MM+ and 
generate the CW.


Both of these issues could contribute to the problem.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Dec 2015 10:14, Fausto Coletti wrote:

Hi all,

I noticed a problem with N1MM + in CW.
When I select a speed higher than 28-30wpm, the weighing between points and 
lines changes and,
at 40wpm the transmitted message becomes incomprehensible.
Any suggestions?

73, Fausto IK4NMF

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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Brian Hunt]

I think the dits that N1MM makes are too short, at least to my ear. I set the 
CW weighting in N1MM 10-20% heavier and that seems to help. I never get much 
above 32 won but it seems fine there. The CW weight setting in the K3 menu only 
affects paddle input. 

73,
Brian, K0DTJ

> When I select a speed higher than 28-30wpm, the weighing between points and 
> lines changes and, 
> at 40wpm the transmitted message becomes incomprehensible. 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Chester Alderman]

What you both neglect to mention is how you are keying with NL+? It makes a
difference.
For keying my K3, I use the DTR line. I have tested sending CW, with the
default weight setting, up to about 115 wpm and from 20 wpm up to the max of
my K3, in my opinion, the NL+ weight maintains perfect weight/spacing up to
that speed.

So what do you use for keying NL+ and what rig are you using?

73,
Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Hunt
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2015 10:34 AM
To: Fausto Coletti
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

I think the dits that N1MM makes are too short, at least to my ear. I set
the CW weighting in N1MM 10-20% heavier and that seems to help. I never get
much above 32 won but it seems fine there. The CW weight setting in the K3
menu only affects paddle input. 

73,
Brian, K0DTJ

> When I select a speed higher than 28-30wpm, the weighing between 
> points and lines changes and, at 40wpm the transmitted message becomes
incomprehensible.
> 
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[Elecraft] Test do not read

[Fausto Coletti]

Test
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[Elecraft] FLDIGI

[chris grier]

need some help is there anyone using there K3s with FLDIGI
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[Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Ken]

I have a new P3 here connected to a K3.  I can hear signals that do not 
show at all on the waterfall, and barely on the upper part of the 
screen.  And signals that show on the P3 display do not show on the 
attached VGA display.


I've gone over the Elecraft documentation and Fred Cady's booklet on the 
P3 and I do not see any sensitivity adjustment for the display.   There 
is the level calibrate but if I move that to extremes, it throws off the 
K3 and P3 showing the same signal strength.  I don't think that is the 
right adjustment for what I want.


Thanks
Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Al Lorona]

Right after the CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it after 
sleeping on it which I always do before posting. Now that the issue has come up 
on its own I wish to make an observation.

During the contest I heard many stations with shortened dits. They sounded 
pretty bad and I reckon they weren't listening to themselves else they'd have 
done something about it.

Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of K3's [because some of 
these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous and checked my own 
signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the K3 through DTR, but 
was relieved to find that my dits were okay.

So there's something going on out there, and I don't know what it is, but what 
I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial is proven to work well as 
Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ CW op.


Al W6LX



>>>For keying my K3, I use the DTR line. I have tested sending CW, with the
>>>default weight setting, up to about 115 wpm and from 20 wpm up to the max of
>>>my K3, in my opinion, the NL+ weight maintains perfect weight/spacing up to

>>>that speed.
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[Elecraft] Looking for K3 filters

[Barry N1EU]

If anybody out there has any of these filters available, please drop
me an email:

one KFL3A-250 250 Hz 8-pole
one or two KFL3A-200 200Hz 5-pole
one or two KFL3A-6K 6KHz 8-pole
(or Inrad equivalents)

Thanks & 73,
Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Reversed IQ on 2m?

[Edouard Lafargue]

... and answering my own question: I just discovered you can invert
transverter bands in the PX3 settings... so it is merely a matter of
inverting the transverter bands that need it.

Sorry for the disruption - hope this will help others who run into the
issue!

Ed
W6ELA

On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 8:43 AM, Edouard Lafargue 
wrote:

>
>   On the latest KX3/PX3 firmware, I just noticed that the IQ signal seems
> to be reversed on the PX3 on 2m only - the symptom being that the higher
> frequencies are displayed on the left of the screen, and the lower
> frequencies on the right... Other bands behave correctly.
>
>I usually only direct tune on 2m, so I didn't notice this earlier. I
> did a quick search on the mailing list archives and didn't find any
> reference to this issue...
>
>Is this a known problem ?
>
> Ed
> W6ELA
>
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[Elecraft] [PX3] Reversed IQ on 2m?

[Edouard Lafargue]

  On the latest KX3/PX3 firmware, I just noticed that the IQ signal seems
to be reversed on the PX3 on 2m only - the symptom being that the higher
frequencies are displayed on the left of the screen, and the lower
frequencies on the right... Other bands behave correctly.

   I usually only direct tune on 2m, so I didn't notice this earlier. I did
a quick search on the mailing list archives and didn't find any reference
to this issue...

   Is this a known problem ?

Ed
W6ELA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Fred Jensen]

On 12/4/2015 1:09 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


IMX I tune the loop for maximum noise in the receiver. Properly
designed small loops have very high Q, so the peak is very "sharp".


Yes.  While the RX noise peak *is* quite narrow, especially on 40 and 
30, it is still quite a bit broader than the resonance point.  I've 
occasionally gotten the look to resonance with the RX noise peak, but 
it's pure luck.


If I then transmit and find that the SWR is high, I'm sure the
coupling between the loop and the feed line is not correct. That is,
the loop at resonance is not presenting a 50 ohm impedance to the
feed line.


Ummm ... not my experience with either the Alex or MFJ, nor does that 
match theory.  The Alex is designed to present 50 ohms *exactly at 
resonance*, nothing else is required. Also true for MFJ.  Once I've 
peaked the noise, I put the K2 into TUNE and adjust for an SWR of 1.0:1. 
 It is much narrower an adjustment than the RX noise peak.  No ATU, ever.



If you are not worried about feed line losses, I would expect the
loop to work just fine using the ATU at the rig to compensate for the
odd impedance presented to it by the feed line, but be sure to check
the loop tuning after the ATU does its job since it will interact
with the loop and shift its resonant frequency somewhat.


Uhhh ... no.  No ATU, ever.  Everything is done with the little knob on 
the loop while watching the SWR.  Conveniently, my K2 displays the SWR. 
 No ATU, ever.


This is an amazingly simple antenna to adjust, I'm a little surprised at 
the length of the thread.  Many years ago [OK, decades ago :-)], I built 
a little analog phase detector from a QST, CQ, or 73 article.  It 
powered a small DC motor connected to a variable cap that drove the 
reactance on the 75 m antenna on Dad's car to zero.  Worked real good. 
Not sure why it wouldn't work with the loop since "resonance" = zero 
reactance.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Fred Jensen]

The P3 has a monochrome WF display mode [in the menu] which will usually 
show weaker signals than the color display.  I don't know if it works 
with the SVGA, don't have one.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 12/4/2015 12:43 PM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
That's very typical.  The P3 or LPPAN for that matter will not always
show real weak signals.  The waterfall as opposed to the spectrum can be
more useful here.  Also, averaging,set high will help dig out the signals.
73 Tom


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Have you tried adjusting the REF Level? This is a per band base level for the 
display that directly impacts the minimum signal level displayed.


There also is a SVGA Menu item called 'Bias' that adjusts the sensitivity on the 
SVGA waterfall to compensate for different monitors etc.


73,

Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 12/4/2015 9:55 AM, Ken wrote:
I have a new P3 here connected to a K3.  I can hear signals that do not show 
at all on the waterfall, and barely on the upper part of the screen.  And 
signals that show on the P3 display do not show on the attached VGA display.


I've gone over the Elecraft documentation and Fred Cady's booklet on the P3 
and I do not see any sensitivity adjustment for the display.   There is the 
level calibrate but if I move that to extremes, it throws off the K3 and P3 
showing the same signal strength.  I don't think that is the right adjustment 
for what I want.


Thanks
Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Tom]

Hi,
That's very typical.  The P3 or LPPAN for that matter will not always show 
real weak signals.  The waterfall as opposed to the spectrum can be more 
useful here.  Also, averaging,set high will help dig out the signals.

73 Tom

-Original Message- 
From: Ken

Sent: Friday, December 04, 2015 12:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

I have a new P3 here connected to a K3.  I can hear signals that do not
show at all on the waterfall, and barely on the upper part of the
screen.  And signals that show on the P3 display do not show on the
attached VGA display.

I've gone over the Elecraft documentation and Fred Cady's booklet on the
P3 and I do not see any sensitivity adjustment for the display.   There
is the level calibrate but if I move that to extremes, it throws off the
K3 and P3 showing the same signal strength.  I don't think that is the
right adjustment for what I want.

Thanks
Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

There are two parts to tuning a small transmitting loop antenna: Resonating the 
loop at the operating frequency and matching the loop at resonance to the 
impedance of the feed line.

The Alexloop tuner sounds like a great idea, provided it does both at the same 
time.  

IMX I tune the loop for maximum noise in the receiver. Properly designed small 
loops have very high Q, so the peak is very "sharp". 

If I then transmit and find that the SWR is high, I'm sure the coupling between 
the loop and the feed line is not correct. That is, the loop at resonance is 
not presenting a 50 ohm impedance to the feed line. 

So the challenge for optimum power transfer is to adjust the coupling and 
tuning to get both peak noise and low SWR at the same time. 

If you are not worried about feed line losses, I would expect the loop to work 
just fine using the ATU at the rig to compensate for the odd impedance 
presented to it by the feed line, but be sure to check the loop tuning after 
the ATU does its job since it will interact with the loop and shift its 
resonant frequency somewhat. 

It's like two people standing up in a rowboat. You both work together or you 
both get wet. 
 

73, Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Edouard Lafargue]

On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 1:59 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> On 12/4/2015 1:09 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
> Uhhh ... no.  No ATU, ever.  Everything is done with the little knob on
> the loop while watching the SWR.  Conveniently, my K2 displays the SWR.  No
> ATU, ever.
>
>
   Precisely... this is exactly what I do on my system: I read the KX3
display on the serial port and use the SWR reading that it displays while
in tuning mode for tuning the loop automatically. If the K2 has got a
serial port, it will work too.

Why make things complicated !

Ed
W6ELA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Matt Maguire]

Does it include a resistive bridge that presents a constant 50 ohm impedance to 
the radio during tuning? Mag loops can be quite rough on your output 
transistors (that's why it is best to peak receiver noise first and only 
transmit to do the final tweak)
Matt VK2RQ

Envoyé à partir d'Outlook




On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 9:57 AM -0800, "Edouard Lafargue" 
 wrote:










Hi Gary,

   I need to set aside some time to finalize it, but I have designed a
fully automatic AlexLoop tuner that is designed to work with the KX3: you
just need to tune to the frequency you want to use, then press the "tune"
button on the KX3 (long press on XMIT), and the Alexloop will find the
correct tune in about 20 seconds worst case. It uses a tiny stepper motor
as you described.

   I have demonstrated a proof of concept for it at the Palo Alto Amateur
Radio Association, and I hope to have instructions ready by the end of the
year. The idea is to release complete instructions for whoever wants to
build one themselves, and maybe also offer it as a partly soldered kit for
people who do not want to bother with SMD soldering. Contact me direct if
you are interested!

Ed, W6ELA

On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Gary Hawkins  wrote:

> Dave I read your post with interest, as over the weekend I was looking at
> an automatic loop tuner described in the November/December isse of ARRL QEX
> Magazine.  This was for a MFJ-1788 Magnetic Loop working with a KX3 and
> based on an Arduino micro-controller.  I don't own the MFJ product but I do
> have an Alex Loop and with a few simple modifications the circuit should
> work nicely.
>
> The loop tuner uses a DC motor but I thought a stepper might be more
> elegant.  Thus, I needed to determine the working bandwidth of the Alex
> Loop to get some idea of the angular resolution I needed from either a
> direct drive stepper, or a stepper using gearing.  I looked at the Alex
> Loop around 7, 18 and 30MHz.  3:1 VSWR bandwidths were measured using a
> RigExpert AA-54 antenna analyzer.  For 3:1 VSWR the measured operating
> bandwidths at these three frequencies were determined as 44, 65 and 190kHz
> respectively.  Pretty narrow at the lowest frequency.
>
> Thus, to get a good chance of achieving a VSWR approaching minimum, I
> figured the angular motion should be fine enough at worst case (7MHz)to
> achieve an angular motion of the tuning capacitor of no more than 1/0th the
> 3:1 VSWR bandwith = approx. 4kHz.  Since one and a half turns of the tuning
> capacitor tuned the Alex Loop from resonance at 7 through 30MHz (and
> assuming the frequency response is linear, which it is not) then the
> required angular resolution is 360 * 1.5 * 4 /(3-7000) = 0.094
> degrees.  Since a typical stepper does 200 steps per revolution, then the
> required gearing ratio would be approximately 20:1.
>
> With this type of performance the magnetic loop could be very close to
> resonance at the chosen operating frequency presenting a VSWR approaching
> 1:1.
>
> 73's Gary K6YOA
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 20:52:18 -
>From: "Dave Lankshear"
>To:
>Subject: [Elecraft]  [K2] Tuning a magloop with KAT100
>Message-ID: <7B2795A9D35B4139812BF284FD02542B@DaveLLaptop>
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>
>Hello, Brian.
>
>
>I've read your post and the replies and figure I maybe read what you
> said
>incorrectly, but you did say:
>
>
>Then use the TUNE button on the K2 to tune the loop to resonance, then
>operate.
>
>
>You can't use the K2's antenna tuner to tune a loop to resonance.
> That's
>not how they work.
>
>
>The loop is a complete tuned circuit in itself.  There's the loop
>representing inductance and a capacitor in parallel with it.  These are
>resonant at a frequency and the only practical way to move that resonant
>frequency is to adjust the value of the capacitor that's in parallel
> with
>the loop.
>
>
>You can't adjust that resonant frequency using an auto ATU at the end
> of a
>length of coax.  It's rather like using a telephone conversation to
> make a
>physical change at the other end.  You can't use the phone to make the
> beds
>back home, when you're away!  The auto ATU will see the coax cable and
> the
>loop as a lump of L and C and will endeavour to match it to 50 ohms to
> get a
>1:1 SWR.  The coax forms part of the antenna and is not behaving like a
>transmission line and the loop is not behaving like a resonant circuit
> - you
>might just as well hook the coax to your automobile's fender and use the
>auto ATU to tune that!
>
>
>Please forgive my descriptions if I have misunderstood your question,
> but
>re-reading your quoted statement makes me feel like I'm the only one
> who has
>understood.
>
>
>Yes, by all means match the auto ATU into 50 ohms using a dummy load.
> That
>way, the PA is looking into a load that matches the 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Cady, Fred]

Also, don't worry overmuch about trying to make the signal levels on the K3 and 
P3 agree.  Read Alan's explanation in the P3 manual under Spectrum Display.  
After all, they are two different instruments.  The K3 tells you the signal 
strength either before or after preamplification/attenuation and the P3 gives 
you the relative signal strengths of the signals across the band, derived from 
the IF, and compensated for the k3 preamp/attenuation.  
Cheers and 73,
Fred KE7X

See www.ke7x.com for all KE7X Elecraft books.



From: Elecraft  on behalf of Tom 

Sent: Friday, December 4, 2015 1:43 PM
To: Ken; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

Hi,
That's very typical.  The P3 or LPPAN for that matter will not always show
real weak signals.  The waterfall as opposed to the spectrum can be more
useful here.  Also, averaging,set high will help dig out the signals.
73 Tom

-Original Message-
From: Ken
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2015 12:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

I have a new P3 here connected to a K3.  I can hear signals that do not
show at all on the waterfall, and barely on the upper part of the
screen.  And signals that show on the P3 display do not show on the
attached VGA display.

I've gone over the Elecraft documentation and Fred Cady's booklet on the
P3 and I do not see any sensitivity adjustment for the display.   There
is the level calibrate but if I move that to extremes, it throws off the
K3 and P3 showing the same signal strength.  I don't think that is the
right adjustment for what I want.

Thanks
Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Edouard Lafargue]

 No, it does not use a bridge at all, actually - no need on a KX3,
makes everything more complicated :-) . I usually use a 2W tuning power
only on the AlexLoop. So far no issues.

Ed

On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 12:12 PM, Matt Maguire  wrote:

> Does it include a resistive bridge that presents a constant 50 ohm
> impedance to the radio during tuning? Mag loops can be quite rough on your
> output transistors (that's why it is best to peak receiver noise first and
> only transmit to do the final tweak)
>
> Matt VK2RQ
>
> Envoyé à partir d'Outlook 
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 9:57 AM -0800, "Edouard Lafargue" <
> edou...@lafargue.name> wrote:
>
> Hi Gary,
>>
>>I need to set aside some time to finalize it, but I have designed a
>> fully automatic AlexLoop tuner that is designed to work with the KX3: you
>> just need to tune to the frequency you want to use, then press the "tune"
>> button on the KX3 (long press on XMIT), and the Alexloop will find the
>> correct tune in about 20 seconds worst case. It uses a tiny stepper motor
>> as you described.
>>
>>I have demonstrated a proof of concept for it at the Palo Alto Amateur
>> Radio Association, and I hope to have instructions ready by the end of the
>> year. The idea is to release complete instructions for whoever wants to
>> build one themselves, and maybe also offer it as a partly soldered kit for
>> people who do not want to bother with SMD soldering. Contact me direct if
>> you are interested!
>>
>> Ed, W6ELA
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Gary Hawkins  wrote:
>>
>> > Dave I read your post with interest, as over the weekend I was looking at
>> > an automatic loop tuner described in the November/December isse of ARRL QEX
>> > Magazine.  This was for a MFJ-1788 Magnetic Loop working with a KX3 and
>> > based on an Arduino micro-controller.  I don't own the MFJ product but I do
>> > have an Alex Loop and with a few simple modifications the circuit should
>> > work nicely.
>> >
>> > The loop tuner uses a DC motor but I thought a stepper might be more
>> > elegant.  Thus, I needed to determine the working bandwidth of the Alex
>> > Loop to get some idea of the angular resolution I needed from either a
>> > direct drive stepper, or a stepper using gearing.  I looked at the Alex
>> > Loop around 7, 18 and 30MHz.  3:1 VSWR bandwidths were measured using a
>> > RigExpert AA-54 antenna analyzer.  For 3:1 VSWR the measured operating
>> > bandwidths at these three frequencies were determined as 44, 65 and 190kHz
>> > respectively.  Pretty narrow at the lowest frequency.
>> >
>> > Thus, to get a good chance of achieving a VSWR approaching minimum, I
>> > figured the angular motion should be fine enough at worst case (7MHz)to
>> > achieve an angular motion of the tuning capacitor of no more than 1/0th the
>> > 3:1 VSWR bandwith = approx. 4kHz.  Since one and a half turns of the tuning
>> > capacitor tuned the Alex Loop from resonance at 7 through 30MHz (and
>> > assuming the frequency response is linear, which it is not) then the
>> > required angular resolution is 360 * 1.5 * 4 /(3-7000) = 0.094
>> > degrees.  Since a typical stepper does 200 steps per revolution, then the
>> > required gearing ratio would be approximately 20:1.
>> >
>> > With this type of performance the magnetic loop could be very close to
>> > resonance at the chosen operating frequency presenting a VSWR approaching
>> > 1:1.
>> >
>> > 73's Gary K6YOA
>> >
>> >Message: 3
>> >Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 20:52:18 -
>> >From: "Dave Lankshear"
>> >To:
>>
>> >Subject: [Elecraft]  [K2] Tuning a magloop with KAT100
>> >Message-ID: <7B2795A9D35B4139812BF284FD02542B@DaveLLaptop>
>> >Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> >Hello, Brian.
>> >
>> >
>> >I've read your post and the replies and figure I maybe read what you
>> > said
>> >incorrectly, but you did say:
>> >
>> >
>> >Then use the TUNE button on the K2 to tune the loop to resonance, then
>> >operate.
>> >
>> >
>> >You can't use the K2's antenna tuner to tune a loop to resonance.
>> > That's
>> >not how they work.
>> >
>> >
>> >The loop is a complete tuned circuit in itself.  There's the loop
>> >representing inductance and a capacitor in parallel with it.  These are
>> >resonant at a frequency and the only practical way to move that resonant
>> >frequency is to adjust the value of the capacitor that's in parallel
>> > with
>> >the loop.
>> >
>> >
>> >You can't adjust that resonant frequency using an auto ATU at the end
>> > of a
>> >length of coax.  It's rather like using a telephone conversation to
>> > make a
>> >physical change at the other end.  You can't use the phone to make the
>> > beds
>> >back home, when you're away!  The auto ATU will see the coax cable and
>> > the
>> >loop as a lump of L and C and will endeavour to match it to 50 ohms to
>> > get a
>> >1:1 SWR. 

Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I was speaking of small transmitting loops in general, not a particular
design. 

A small loop, like any other antenna, can be designed for any impedance feed
line. If a given loop happens to present a 100 ohm impedance at the feed
point, 50 ohm coax will see a 2:1 SWR. That will result in some oddball
impedance at the transmitter, depending upon the electrical length of the
feed line. If the transmitter output network (e.g. ATU) can match that
impedance, all is good providing you are happy with whatever losses occur in
the feed line.

As I said, it's a balancing act. Messing with the termination at the
transmitter end of the coax to match the impedance presented will shift the
resonant frequency of the loop; the adjustments are interactive. 

If your loop is designed so that it always presents a 50 ohm termination to
a 50 ohm feed line at all frequencies you need not adjust the rig's output
network. 

None of the homebrew loops I've built maintained that match across the
various bands. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2015 2:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

On 12/4/2015 1:09 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> IMX I tune the loop for maximum noise in the receiver. Properly 
> designed small loops have very high Q, so the peak is very "sharp".

Yes.  While the RX noise peak *is* quite narrow, especially on 40 and 30, it
is still quite a bit broader than the resonance point.  I've occasionally
gotten the look to resonance with the RX noise peak, but it's pure luck.
>
> If I then transmit and find that the SWR is high, I'm sure the 
> coupling between the loop and the feed line is not correct. That is, 
> the loop at resonance is not presenting a 50 ohm impedance to the feed 
> line.

Ummm ... not my experience with either the Alex or MFJ, nor does that match
theory.  The Alex is designed to present 50 ohms *exactly at resonance*,
nothing else is required. Also true for MFJ.  Once I've peaked the noise, I
put the K2 into TUNE and adjust for an SWR of 1.0:1. 
  It is much narrower an adjustment than the RX noise peak.  No ATU, ever.

> If you are not worried about feed line losses, I would expect the loop 
> to work just fine using the ATU at the rig to compensate for the odd 
> impedance presented to it by the feed line, but be sure to check the 
> loop tuning after the ATU does its job since it will interact with the 
> loop and shift its resonant frequency somewhat.

Uhhh ... no.  No ATU, ever.  Everything is done with the little knob on the
loop while watching the SWR.  Conveniently, my K2 displays the SWR. 
  No ATU, ever.

This is an amazingly simple antenna to adjust, I'm a little surprised at the
length of the thread.  Many years ago [OK, decades ago :-)], I built a
little analog phase detector from a QST, CQ, or 73 article.  It powered a
small DC motor connected to a variable cap that drove the reactance on the
75 m antenna on Dad's car to zero.  Worked real good. 
Not sure why it wouldn't work with the loop since "resonance" = zero
reactance.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] List Manners, etc.

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Its come to our attention that some list members have sent **private** emails 
chastising or criticizing others who may have made a comment or posted a 
question to the list. This is in direct violation of our "keep it friendly" list 
policy.


A note to aspiring list police: Please restrain the urge to
email someone or the list admonishing them about a posting. The last
thing we want to do is to scare anyone off the list. As the 'official'
list Cop, I'll jump in as necessary to keep everything orderly. I do
this off line and occasionally to the list when it is appropriate. Our
goal is to keep the Elecraft list a fun, informative central clearing
house for Elecraft and Ham Radio related information and enthusiasm.

All questions are welcome, and it is in direct violation to
personally criticize a poster for making a post with abusive emails. (Even if 
the information they seek is basic, is on our web page or is available via the 
list archives, its OK to ask about it.)


Anyone receiving private emails (via the list or direct email) belittling or 
chastising them regarding a post should **forward** that post to me as list 
manager. List members who violate this guideline by abusing others risk 
permanently being removed from the email list.


It is also not necessary to defend Elecraft and to personally criticize a poster 
who has a critique or problem with our radios. (We have pretty thick skins ;-) 
We want to hear critical input so we can continue to improve our products and 
make them the best possible. Its certainly OK correct posters if their 
information is incorrect, and to help them with questions or misunderstandings, 
but please do it politely and with respect.


Overall, the primary  list guideline is to keep all discussions cordial and 
polite on the list and on follow up private emails related to list discussions. 
There is no place for belittling or chastising of list members when you do not 
think they should have asked a question or made a post, or if you disagree with 
their point. Its OK to have polite disagreements and discussions, but not to 
make it personal.


All questions are welcome. Period.

The bottom line:
If you have a question - POST IT.
If you are having fun -  POST IT.
If you are having problems - POST IT.
If you have a suggestion -   POST it.

If you have a complaint about the list or another poster - do not post it to the 
list. Please send it to me. We'll jump on it right away.


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Chief Elecraft cheerleader and list Moderator.



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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Kevin Stover]

I've used a Winkey USB for about four years now. Perfect code. I don't 
have to worry about the PC getting busy and screwing up the CW sent with 
serial lines.


On 12/4/2015 11:44 AM, Al Lorona wrote:

Right after the CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it after 
sleeping on it which I always do before posting. Now that the issue has come up 
on its own I wish to make an observation.

During the contest I heard many stations with shortened dits. They sounded 
pretty bad and I reckon they weren't listening to themselves else they'd have 
done something about it.

Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of K3's [because some of 
these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous and checked my own 
signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the K3 through DTR, but 
was relieved to find that my dits were okay.

So there's something going on out there, and I don't know what it is, but what 
I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial is proven to work well as 
Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ CW op.


Al W6LX




--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines 2015 - Updated

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Elecraft eMail LIST GUIDELINES 2015-16

For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly 
failing memories) here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to 
this list. Please save this for future reference.


The most important thing to remember is that this is a hobby - Let's have fun!

The PRIMARY purposes of this list are to provide a polite and enjoyable forum 
for discussing Elecraft products, share mods, new ideas, feedback to Elecraft, 
share experiences using our products, troubleshooting ideas etc.


The Elecraft email list server (reflector) is provided to further the discussion 
of Elecraft products and related items. It serves as a forum for the discussion 
of both technical and operating topics including product features, construction 
and debug problems, sharing your enthusiasm and impressions from using our 
products and more general ham radio related topics of interest to our customers.


(Please -strongly- resist the urge to reply to an OT topic once it has gone to 5 
posts. Once it hits ten posts do not reply at all (go off list if you feel the 
urge to continue.) Also, please do not try to always get the 'last word'..



1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is done to 
stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent to 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it shows as 
subscribers will be rejected.


This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like w1...@arrl.net. If you use an 
alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too. 
Subscribing with w...@arrl.net from your physical address of j...@aol.com will 
allow you to receive postings, but your postings to
the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not match 
your subscribe address..


Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to 
change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list preferences 
(digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page and log in with 
your subscribed email address and the password that was sent to you by email 
when you subscribed (and sent to you each month).



2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large file for 
use on the list, first post it to your personal web page and then post a link to 
its address in an email to the list. The list strips all attachments to prevent 
viruses from propagating and to keep the archives at a reasonable size.



3. Top posting is the official standard for this list, and its especially
important for those of us who also read our email on smartphones, iPads etc. 
Scrolling though a long thread before getting to the reply text is difficult on 
these devices and costs everyone a lot of time.


Reading the response first, at the top, is a huge time saver, especially when 
you have to read hundreds of emails daily as we do here. We really appreciate 
your adherence to this.


Please also delete -all- footers and as much of the prior email text as possible 
when replying to cut down on overall email size. Please keep the amount of 
copied text from previous posts to an -ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies.



4. EMAIL OVERLOAD:
If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list, You can 
view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web format at: 
http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated hourly and list 
postings by subject. (the Nabble archive looks very useful.) Just click on the 
ones you are interested in to read.


You can also set your Elecraft list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery, 
which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest.


You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a 
single compilation each day.


To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Scroll to the bottom of the 
page to log into your preferences page and set your mail options to 'no mail'.



4a. Please make an effort to keep list volume under control by resisting the 
urge to post a comment on every long discussion thread (CW, Soldering etc.) With 
thousands of list subscribers volume can quickly get out of control if everyone 
feels the need to comment. While we do not overly restrict the subject matter on 
this list, please remember that its primary focus is on Elecraft products, and 
their use. Many people rely on it for pointers on building, using and 
troubleshooting their rigs. Other ham Radio topics are OK, but please keep the 
posts on non-Elecraft topics under control.


4b. *** When emailing about a specific rig or option, please add the rig/option 
name(s) to the first part of your email subject line. (K1, K2, K3, KX1 etc.) 
This will be a huge help for those experiencing email overload and will allow 
automatic filtering based on subject line.

[Elecraft] New release of Win4K3Suite

[Tom]

Hello,
Just a note that there is a new release of Win4K3Suite out there.  Release 
1.778 has a couple of bug fixes where some text colors were not correct in the 
Frequency Memory display for a small subset of users.  This has been fixed and 
while I was at it, Scanning as supported by the K3, K3S and KX3 added. This 
release also supports the old pre-XP Windows Classic theme since there seem to 
be many people still using it.
In addition, this release now has preliminary support for 4K monitors with the 
Panadapter.  This allows up to 3840 x 2180 resolution for the panadapter.  This 
works quite well, but the downsampling has not yet been optimized. The next 
release will offer this.  It is quite a sight to see a 4K panadapter spanning 
192 kHz on a 40 inch 4K display!
Just a note about support of third party products:  Win4K3Suite has a built in 
router allowing third party products to connect to the radio simultaneously 
with the radio control capabilities.  HRD, DXLabs, Logger32, WriteLog, N1MM+, 
FLDIGI, and any other package out there is supported seamlessly.
You can download a fully functional 30 day demo at va2fsq.com
73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Gary Hawkins]

The QEX featured circuit designed by WB0OEW takes a slightly different 
approach.  It monitors serial communications on the ACC1 of the KX3.  
From this it pulls the KX3 operational frequency (AUTO INF must be set) 
that it compares to the frequency the loop is currently tuned to.  If 
these frequencies are sufficiently different and the loop needs 
retuning, the KX3 is disconnected from the Alex Loop using a coaxial 
switch and a Fox Delta DDS then excites the loop at the KX3 frequency 
and an algorithm varies the angular position of the variable cap to 
minimize VSWR - similarly takes about 10-20secs.  When the loop is 
returned to resonance the coaxial switch reconnects the KX3/disconnects 
the DDS and a logic line allows the KX3 to go into TX if required.  This 
circuit does include a balanced bridge at 50 ohms and can't place any 
strain on the KX3 as it's not connected during the tuning process.  I'm 
currently implementing the serial read of ACCI, after I've got that done 
I'm going to look at DDS options.   All the components are controlled by 
the Arduino Uno - which is a fun device to play with.


On 12/4/2015 9:56 AM, Edouard Lafargue wrote:

Hi Gary,

   I need to set aside some time to finalize it, but I have designed a 
fully automatic AlexLoop tuner that is designed to work with the KX3: 
you just need to tune to the frequency you want to use, then press the 
"tune" button on the KX3 (long press on XMIT), and the Alexloop will 
find the correct tune in about 20 seconds worst case. It uses a tiny 
stepper motor as you described.


   I have demonstrated a proof of concept for it at the Palo Alto 
Amateur Radio Association, and I hope to have instructions ready by 
the end of the year. The idea is to release complete instructions for 
whoever wants to build one themselves, and maybe also offer it as a 
partly soldered kit for people who do not want to bother with SMD 
soldering. Contact me direct if you are interested!


Ed, W6ELA


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[Elecraft] [KX3] QEX manuscript on Magloop tuner available online from WB0OEW

[Gary Hawkins]

I found out the manuscript of the QEX article is available online from 
WB0OEW at http://www.clearskyinstitute.com/ham/LoopTuner/


73's Gary K6YOA
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[Elecraft] [PX3 w/ ver 1.39] My PX3 forget the waterfall hight

[Nakamura]

Dear n6hz Paul

I have factory reset my PX3 with MENU+PWR.

REF and SCALE is OK, but waterfall hight is not saved.

In the auto text display mode on, and waterfall hight = 138,
When the mode return to LSB by changing to CW, waterfall
height will be back to 100.

I hope it is expected to be fixed in the next release.

Best regards,

nakamura / JE0LFI
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[Elecraft] Help!! Complete K2 Catastrophe

[Dauer, Edward]

Tegsting out the newly built K2 tonight.  Everything was working just 
fine.  Then tried the direct frequency entry, at 1 to see if WWV came 
in.  Everything went dark.   All I hear is a rhythmic popping noise in the 
speaker.  Shut it off and on.  No change.  Unplugged power supply.  No 
change.  Tried to reset to factory defaults.  No change.  With the power 
on it just sits there, dark, making a brief popping noise about once a 
second.  No switch or combination of switches changes anything.

What did I do?  More to the point, how do I undo it?  Any ideas will be 
greatly appreciated.

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Kevin Stover]

I have been a proponent of the Koch method.
You start with two letters at the final speed you wish to copy, none of 
this Farnsworth business of fast characters with extra space between 
words to slow the wpm down. You want to learn 40wpm, characters and 
words are spaced for 40wpm. You don't add a letter until you copy the 
original two at 95%.


G4FON makes a fine piece of software specifically designed to support 
the Koch method.


On 12/4/2015 9:21 PM, Robert G Strickland wrote:
The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, 
not the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be 
an overlap between the two tasks.


W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. 
Presumably, as the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and 
copying becomes easier; then, ease of copying starts occurring at 
higher speeds over time/trials. From my days studying animal learning, 
I remember significant research to the effect that starting a new task 
in the easiest form [slow CW speed] lessened/prevented errors and, by 
the end, resulted in quicker and more accurate learning.


I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at 
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. 
This is somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not 
"words."


All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may 
have a point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For 
example, start with 3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing 
increasing speed as long as the error rate stays under some value [5%, 
say]. Keep working at a given speed until the error rate is reached, 
then increment. Proceed in this fashion until a goal speed is reached. 
Then, repeat in the same fashion for longer letter groups. The same 
approach could be used with numbers, complete call signs, and 
sweepstakes type exchanges.


The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct 
neural networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly 
stretched, perhaps like increasing strength in weight training and 
increasing range of motion after orthopedic surgery, all the time 
working at the edge to slowly increase capacity. This might also be 
applicable to increasing the speed of characters as in the Farnsworth 
method. I'm interested in what folks think.


...rober



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Scott via Elecraft]

 
I did the same thing after having the same problem and have to agree  the 
WInkey USB is (so far) flawless.
 
But I really would like to know how Tom avoids the issue directly keying  
the radio, especially for portable ops.
 
Operating under W8.1 with direct keying I had about everything that could  
be shutdown, shutdown, and still hit the 30 WPM wall without the  WInkeyer. 
 
Scott ka9p

 
 
In a message dated 12/4/2015 7:01:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
kevin.sto...@mediacombb.net writes:

I've  used a Winkey USB for about four years now. Perfect code. I don't 
have to  worry about the PC getting busy and screwing up the CW sent with 
serial  lines.

On 12/4/2015 11:44 AM, Al Lorona wrote:
> Right after the  CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it 
after sleeping on it  which I always do before posting. Now that the issue 
has come up on its own I  wish to make an observation.
>
> During the contest I heard many  stations with shortened dits. They 
sounded pretty bad and I reckon they  weren't listening to themselves else 
they'd 
have done something about  it.
>
> Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of  K3's [because 
some of these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous  and checked 
my own signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the  K3 
through DTR, but was relieved to find that my dits were  okay.
>
> So there's something going on out there, and I don't  know what it is, 
but what I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial  is proven to work 
well as Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ  CW op.
>
>
> Al W6LX
>


-- 
R. Kevin  Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC  #3441


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[Elecraft] K2 Failure

[Dauer, Edward]

More on the defunct K2:  I measured the DC voltage on both sides of F1, 
the self-resetting fuse.  With the power switch “off” the voltage is 13.8. 
 With it on, the voltage is essentially zero on both sides of F1.  
Measured the resistance to ground at the collector of Q7 - it’s about 2 
ohms, not the >500 it should be.  But that doesn’t mean that Q7 or Q8 is 
the culprit.  A short anywhere on the DC line could cause that reading 
anywhere else, yes?  So, what’s the best procedure to isolate the problem 
— I removed the KNB2 and the KAF2; no change.  Tomorrow, in the cold gray 
light of dawn, I will pull the front panel board and the control board off 
the RF board, to see if that narrows it down.  Tonight, I will just have 
another glass of wine.  That should help.

Anyone know if F1 has a reset time of just under a second?  If so, then 
the “popping” noise may be F1 trying to reset itself.  Which doesn’t help 
locate the downstream problem, of course.  But it would strongly suggest a 
DC short somewhere rather than some configuration glitch, yes?

Ted, KN1CBR
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[Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[Chuck Teeter]

Hello:

I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other equipment/supplies to set 
up a station, but for a number of reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set 
up.  Anyway, I have all this equipment, and now we’re moving to a location 
where I won’t have space, etc, to try there, so I need to sell all of my 
equipment.  What do you recommend as the best approach to take.  I’d really 
like to sell all of it as a package, but that might not be doable.  Except for 
being kept current, the K3 is unused, and everything else is either mint or 
unused.  Any ideas are appreciated.

Chuck Teeter
KE9CE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

Matt is correct, if you measure 0 volts on *both* sides of F1, then the 
power source and D10 are suspect.
It could be that the 0 volts is the result of your power source folding 
back or the soldering of D10 or the soldering of the power jack.


In any case, cure the low resistance at the collectors of Q7/Q8 first - 
that low resistance indicates a direct short for the 12 volt power input.

Once that is solved, you can move on to other potential problems.

DO NOT attempt a TUNE or Transmit with the heat sink removed - doing 
that will kill the PA transistors very quickly.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/4/2015 11:36 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:

Good move taking a rest and a glass of wine — it is important not to panic, as 
that can lead to doing something silly :)

If you were entering 1, you would have been tapping the « 0 » key next the 
the VFO knob multiple times, and maybe the pressure has caused the front panel 
and control boards to come into contact and short out. As I remember, there was 
not a lot of clearance there, especially with the adapter board for the 
encoder. I’d be looking for possible shorts around there.

Just a comment on your observations with F1 — if you are applying power and 
measure 0V on both sides of F1, then that suggests that F1 is not open circuit. 
It may indicate that diode D10 has gone high resistance and is dropping the 
13.8V when the radio tries to draw current.
  
--

73 de Matt VK2RQ

On 5 décembre 2015 at 2:56:47 PM, Dauer, Edward (eda...@law.du.edu) wrote:

More on the defunct K2: I measured the DC voltage on both sides of F1,
the self-resetting fuse. With the power switch “off” the voltage is 13.8.
With it on, the voltage is essentially zero on both sides of F1.
Measured the resistance to ground at the collector of Q7 - it’s about 2
ohms, not the >500 it should be. But that doesn’t mean that Q7 or Q8 is
the culprit. A short anywhere on the DC line could cause that reading
anywhere else, yes? So, what’s the best procedure to isolate the problem
— I removed the KNB2 and the KAF2; no change. Tomorrow, in the cold gray
light of dawn, I will pull the front panel board and the control board off
the RF board, to see if that narrows it down. Tonight, I will just have
another glass of wine. That should help.

Anyone know if F1 has a reset time of just under a second? If so, then
the “popping” noise may be F1 trying to reset itself. Which doesn’t help
locate the downstream problem, of course. But it would strongly suggest a
DC short somewhere rather than some configuration glitch, yes?

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Ken]

Thanks to all who replied, the various suggestions have been helpful and 
the display is better although still not like my other rig.


73, Ken WA8JXM
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[Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Robert G Strickland]

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, 
not the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an 
overlap between the two tasks.


W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, 
as the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes 
easier; then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over 
time/trials. From my days studying animal learning, I remember 
significant research to the effect that starting a new task in the 
easiest form [slow CW speed] lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, 
resulted in quicker and more accurate learning.


I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at 
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This 
is somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."


All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have 
a point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start 
with 3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as 
long as the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at 
a given speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed 
in this fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same 
fashion for longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with 
numbers, complete call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.


The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct 
neural networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched, 
perhaps like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range 
of motion after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to 
slowly increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing 
the speed of characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in 
what folks think.


...rober
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Robert: I agree, but perhaps it has to do with why one needs to gain a
certain proficiency. 

I've been "pounding brass" as a Ham and commercial and military
radiotelegraph operator since I passed my Novice license in 1952. 

I enjoy CW like many Hams enjoy casual SSB or FM QSOs; it's a way to carry
on lengthy conversations (rag chews). Others use CW mostly for contests. The
demands are different.

I got my last ARRL code proficiency certificate at 35 WPM about 1970. That
was copying by ear and on a mill (typewriter - computers weren't around
then) a full minute of plain text with no idea of what was coming next --
such as what one encounters in a rag chew. But my rag chews are invariably
20-25 wpm or less. That's what most other operators are running and it
allows me to putter around the shack while copying easily "in my head". 
In a contest I can follow an exchange at 40 wpm or higher because I know
exactly what to expect and only need to copy the variables - number,
section, etc.

Perhaps for learning CW for contesting starting at the higher speed is
better, possibly using "Farnsworth" spacing in which highly exaggerated
spaces are left between letters at first and then slowly moving into a
normal spacing. For me it was as you suggest, from slow speed and then
upward, always striving to keep the proper element and word spacing.

One thing I've come to expect is that when learning code "your mileage may
vary" is certainly true. The "best" way for each of us is how each of us
learned! 

73 Ron AC7AC 




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
G Strickland
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2015 7:22 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, not
the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an overlap
between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, as
the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes easier;
then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over time/trials.
>From my days studying animal learning, I remember significant research to
the effect that starting a new task in the easiest form [slow CW speed]
lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, resulted in quicker and more
accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This is
somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have a
point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start with
3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as long as
the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at a given
speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed in this
fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same fashion for
longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with numbers, complete
call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct neural
networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched, perhaps
like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range of motion
after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to slowly
increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing the speed of
characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in what folks think.

...rober
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

The most common cause of low resistance on the collectors of Q7 and Q8 
is failure of the thermal pads to insulate the DC voltage.
Take the heatsink off and again measure the resistance between ground 
and the collector of Q7/Q8.  If it is then OK, simply get new thermal pads.


Yes, F1 trips very quickly.  I don't know about the exact time, but that 
time is short.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/4/2015 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

More on the defunct K2:  I measured the DC voltage on both sides of F1,
the self-resetting fuse.  With the power switch “off” the voltage is 13.8.
  With it on, the voltage is essentially zero on both sides of F1.
Measured the resistance to ground at the collector of Q7 - it’s about 2
ohms, not the >500 it should be.  But that doesn’t mean that Q7 or Q8 is
the culprit.  A short anywhere on the DC line could cause that reading
anywhere else, yes?  So, what’s the best procedure to isolate the problem
— I removed the KNB2 and the KAF2; no change.  Tomorrow, in the cold gray
light of dawn, I will pull the front panel board and the control board off
the RF board, to see if that narrows it down.  Tonight, I will just have
another glass of wine.  That should help.

Anyone know if F1 has a reset time of just under a second?  If so, then
the “popping” noise may be F1 trying to reset itself.  Which doesn’t help
locate the downstream problem, of course.  But it would strongly suggest a
DC short somewhere rather than some configuration glitch, yes?




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Failure

[Matt Maguire]

Good move taking a rest and a glass of wine — it is important not to panic, as 
that can lead to doing something silly :)

If you were entering 1, you would have been tapping the « 0 » key next the 
the VFO knob multiple times, and maybe the pressure has caused the front panel 
and control boards to come into contact and short out. As I remember, there was 
not a lot of clearance there, especially with the adapter board for the 
encoder. I’d be looking for possible shorts around there.

Just a comment on your observations with F1 — if you are applying power and 
measure 0V on both sides of F1, then that suggests that F1 is not open circuit. 
It may indicate that diode D10 has gone high resistance and is dropping the 
13.8V when the radio tries to draw current.
 
-- 
73 de Matt VK2RQ

On 5 décembre 2015 at 2:56:47 PM, Dauer, Edward (eda...@law.du.edu) wrote:

More on the defunct K2: I measured the DC voltage on both sides of F1,  
the self-resetting fuse. With the power switch “off” the voltage is 13.8.  
With it on, the voltage is essentially zero on both sides of F1.  
Measured the resistance to ground at the collector of Q7 - it’s about 2  
ohms, not the >500 it should be. But that doesn’t mean that Q7 or Q8 is  
the culprit. A short anywhere on the DC line could cause that reading  
anywhere else, yes? So, what’s the best procedure to isolate the problem  
— I removed the KNB2 and the KAF2; no change. Tomorrow, in the cold gray  
light of dawn, I will pull the front panel board and the control board off  
the RF board, to see if that narrows it down. Tonight, I will just have  
another glass of wine. That should help.  

Anyone know if F1 has a reset time of just under a second? If so, then  
the “popping” noise may be F1 trying to reset itself. Which doesn’t help  
locate the downstream problem, of course. But it would strongly suggest a  
DC short somewhere rather than some configuration glitch, yes?  

Ted, KN1CBR  
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Re: [Elecraft] Help!! Complete K2 Catastrophe

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

After you get the collectors of Q7/Q8 straightened out, you might 
investigate the spacing between the VFO encoder board and the Control 
Board area that sits behind it.  The leads on the encoder board must be 
flush trimmed (really close to the board), and the area of the Control 
Board behind the encoder board must also be flush trimmed.
You might even want to put some electrical tape over the back of the 
encoder board as an added preventative measure.


Another thing you can do to increase the clearance between the front 
panel encoder board and the Control Board is to add a 2nd lockwasher 
between the 2 front panel standoffs and the FP board.  That will 
increase the clearance slightly.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/4/2015 9:35 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Tegsting out the newly built K2 tonight.  Everything was working just
fine.  Then tried the direct frequency entry, at 1 to see if WWV came
in.  Everything went dark.   All I hear is a rhythmic popping noise in the
speaker.  Shut it off and on.  No change.  Unplugged power supply.  No
change.  Tried to reset to factory defaults.  No change.  With the power
on it just sits there, dark, making a brief popping noise about once a
second.  No switch or combination of switches changes anything.

What did I do?  More to the point, how do I undo it?  Any ideas will be
greatly appreciated.




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[Elecraft] KX3 to older iPod adapter FS

[Randy Cook]

I have an Apple adapter that allows connection of an older multi-pin input iPod 
to a USB cable. I believe it was used to connect iPod as a spectrum display to 
a KX3, but I am unclear on the details. 
I had the adapter for another purpose and no long need it.  Email me off line 
if it is the correct adapter, and you can use it.

73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Edouard Lafargue]

Hi Gary,

   I need to set aside some time to finalize it, but I have designed a
fully automatic AlexLoop tuner that is designed to work with the KX3: you
just need to tune to the frequency you want to use, then press the "tune"
button on the KX3 (long press on XMIT), and the Alexloop will find the
correct tune in about 20 seconds worst case. It uses a tiny stepper motor
as you described.

   I have demonstrated a proof of concept for it at the Palo Alto Amateur
Radio Association, and I hope to have instructions ready by the end of the
year. The idea is to release complete instructions for whoever wants to
build one themselves, and maybe also offer it as a partly soldered kit for
people who do not want to bother with SMD soldering. Contact me direct if
you are interested!

Ed, W6ELA

On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Gary Hawkins  wrote:

> Dave I read your post with interest, as over the weekend I was looking at
> an automatic loop tuner described in the November/December isse of ARRL QEX
> Magazine.  This was for a MFJ-1788 Magnetic Loop working with a KX3 and
> based on an Arduino micro-controller.  I don't own the MFJ product but I do
> have an Alex Loop and with a few simple modifications the circuit should
> work nicely.
>
> The loop tuner uses a DC motor but I thought a stepper might be more
> elegant.  Thus, I needed to determine the working bandwidth of the Alex
> Loop to get some idea of the angular resolution I needed from either a
> direct drive stepper, or a stepper using gearing.  I looked at the Alex
> Loop around 7, 18 and 30MHz.  3:1 VSWR bandwidths were measured using a
> RigExpert AA-54 antenna analyzer.  For 3:1 VSWR the measured operating
> bandwidths at these three frequencies were determined as 44, 65 and 190kHz
> respectively.  Pretty narrow at the lowest frequency.
>
> Thus, to get a good chance of achieving a VSWR approaching minimum, I
> figured the angular motion should be fine enough at worst case (7MHz)to
> achieve an angular motion of the tuning capacitor of no more than 1/0th the
> 3:1 VSWR bandwith = approx. 4kHz.  Since one and a half turns of the tuning
> capacitor tuned the Alex Loop from resonance at 7 through 30MHz (and
> assuming the frequency response is linear, which it is not) then the
> required angular resolution is 360 * 1.5 * 4 /(3-7000) = 0.094
> degrees.  Since a typical stepper does 200 steps per revolution, then the
> required gearing ratio would be approximately 20:1.
>
> With this type of performance the magnetic loop could be very close to
> resonance at the chosen operating frequency presenting a VSWR approaching
> 1:1.
>
> 73's Gary K6YOA
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 20:52:18 -
>From: "Dave Lankshear"
>To:
>Subject: [Elecraft]  [K2] Tuning a magloop with KAT100
>Message-ID: <7B2795A9D35B4139812BF284FD02542B@DaveLLaptop>
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>
>Hello, Brian.
>
>
>I've read your post and the replies and figure I maybe read what you
> said
>incorrectly, but you did say:
>
>
>Then use the TUNE button on the K2 to tune the loop to resonance, then
>operate.
>
>
>You can't use the K2's antenna tuner to tune a loop to resonance.
> That's
>not how they work.
>
>
>The loop is a complete tuned circuit in itself.  There's the loop
>representing inductance and a capacitor in parallel with it.  These are
>resonant at a frequency and the only practical way to move that resonant
>frequency is to adjust the value of the capacitor that's in parallel
> with
>the loop.
>
>
>You can't adjust that resonant frequency using an auto ATU at the end
> of a
>length of coax.  It's rather like using a telephone conversation to
> make a
>physical change at the other end.  You can't use the phone to make the
> beds
>back home, when you're away!  The auto ATU will see the coax cable and
> the
>loop as a lump of L and C and will endeavour to match it to 50 ohms to
> get a
>1:1 SWR.  The coax forms part of the antenna and is not behaving like a
>transmission line and the loop is not behaving like a resonant circuit
> - you
>might just as well hook the coax to your automobile's fender and use the
>auto ATU to tune that!
>
>
>Please forgive my descriptions if I have misunderstood your question,
> but
>re-reading your quoted statement makes me feel like I'm the only one
> who has
>understood.
>
>
>Yes, by all means match the auto ATU into 50 ohms using a dummy load.
> That
>way, the PA is looking into a load that matches the impedance of the
>transmission line, although as Don suggested, you don't really need the
> auto
>ATU (and its losses) as the PA should be reasonably well matched by
>bypassing the auto ATU entirely.  Now, at the loop end, there's a gamma
>match arrangement that ensures the loop, when at resonance, is a decent
>   

Re: [Elecraft] P3 question - few signals show on the waterfall

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,12/4/2015 9:55 AM, Ken wrote:
I've gone over the Elecraft documentation and Fred Cady's booklet on 
the P3 and I do not see any sensitivity adjustment for the display.   
There is the level calibrate but if I move that to extremes, it throws 
off the K3 and P3 showing the same signal strength. 


Lots of settings, all done by selecting the setting with short push or 
long push of the right-hand buttons and setting values with the knob. 
For day-to-day operation, I have the display scaling set for 24 dB full 
screen and set the bottom of the display so that there's a small bit of 
"grass" visible. It is also a VERY good idea to set display averaging to 
a pretty long value (top button). I use the maximum setting. What this 
does is cause random noise to average to zero (because it's random) and 
add the signals (because they are the same on every sweep).


For contests or DX pileups, when there are many strong signals, I adjust 
the display scaling as high as 42 dB (but never higher).


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/N1MM, freq jumps etc in CQ WW CW

[AB2E Darrell]

Wayne,
I had not known of this issue previously (having just acquired my K3 in April), 
but can confirm the same behavior this past weekend in CQWW CW as reported by 
Ignacy and I was using version 5.14.

It was intermittent and I could not pin down the problem during the contest, 
but the PTT would hang on returning to receive, sometimes 3 or 4 seconds. Other 
times, normal return to RX.

Setup this past weekend:
K3/ SPE Expert 1.3K-FA
N1MM+ Logger

Thanks and 73,
Darrell AB2E


From: Elecraft  on behalf of Wayne Burdick 

Sent: Wednesday, December 2, 2015 1:29 PM
To: Ignacy Misztal
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/N1MM, freq jumps etc in CQ WW CW

I though we had fixed this for all remaining cases in rev. 4.55, but I'll 
re-list it.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Dec 2, 2015, at 7:40 AM, Ignacy  wrote:

> Thank you for comments. I amy indeed use ` by chance although I have not done
> SO2V by choice.
>
> N1MM claims a bug in K3.
> This is in
> http://n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=Supported+Radios#K3_and_K3S:
>
> *The K3 contains a firmware bug that was reported several times and never
> been fixed which affects users who would like to use PTT via radio command.
> If the Esc key is pressed when a CW transmission begins and you are using
> PTT via radio command, the radio may not return to RX. The radio RX issue
> doesn't occur if the owner disconnects the CW jack from the rear of the K3
> radio and doesn't change any N1MM Logger setting. Similar issues have been
> reported on other modes. Delay has been added to the N1MM Logger program
> when Esc is pressed but the problem still occurs intermittently. The problem
> seems to be worse with the very early K3 radios. Until this firmware issue
> is corrected, users may notice that the radio does not return to RX
> intermittently when using PTT via radio command. When this occurs, make
> another transmission and end it with the ESC key.*
>
> Ignacy, NO9E
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-N1MM-freq-jumps-etc-in-CQ-WW-CW-tp7611005p7611033.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Fred Jensen]

Might it also work with a K2?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 12/4/2015 9:56 AM, Edouard Lafargue wrote:

Hi Gary,

I need to set aside some time to finalize it, but I have designed a
fully automatic AlexLoop tuner that is designed to work with the KX3:

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