[Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Hi, Al

I have a long list of things that will clip dits, and only one of them
involved the K3, and that went away nicely with the new synthesizers.

El Numero Uno contest QSK problem, with nothing in second place, is QSK
dealing with amplifiers that will not do T/R turn-around (including the
relay points *settling*) in less time than the space between dits  :>)  The
manufacturers do not want to deal with it because it's either expensive and
tricky with relays, or it's pin diodes that get whacked at full QRO from
transmitting into an open, static on the antenna, lightning induced pulses,
etc. Some hams do fine with the pin diodes and others have nothing but
trouble with them, depends on a lot of things.

Some transceiver manufacturers simply clip the keyed input if the delay is
too long, a defensive solution resulting in short dits but *not* burning
amp relays or carbon-arcing amplifier bandswitches.

Myself, I have given up on contest QSK, and let my microHam u2R handle
providing PTT to the amp and delay to the u2R generated code. Since the u2R
(not the K3) converts both ascii data via a serial cable from the PC and my
paddle input to keyed line, and it uses the WinKey chip to do most of that,
it is also in a position to slightly delay the onset of morse output just a
little behind a PTT output. That delay can be set to match the most
atrocious T/R relay, including an old unmodified AL1200, with never a
clipped dit.

That is separate from the ancient problem of a computer not quite having
enough processing power to handle the operating system AND generate
pristine on/off morse code key output. Again some do OK generating code
this way and others have awful problems with it. The reasons why or why not
are often not clear at all.

These issues have gigabytes of postings on the subject in the various
ham archives, rehashed ad nauseum as the subject comes up over and over
again over the last two decades. It certainly is anything but an
recently emergent problem.

With my settings, the Alpha drops at the end of each letter, which is good
enough to hear if someone already started sending under me and I can stop
paddling or hit escape. I gave up on contest QSK not because of the K3, but
because of the general issues that touch everything, and I am tired of
replacing relays in amplifiers and finding out I have clicks when the
contacts go bad.

When there is a transistor full QRO amp using battleship grade pin diodes,
where the entire amp is as reliable as the KPA500 or my tube Alpha, **and
that does not exceed the rest of my station in purchase price**, I'll
switch. But I *continue* to hear stories about pin diodes and transistor
amps blowing finals, even if some insist that theirs have always been fine
(God bless them, I envy their good luck).

Last night in the ARRL 160 contest there was a K0 station that could not
send "IA" for his section. Before dit-dropping occurred to me, he was
sending "EA" for section and I was asking for a fill.

73, Guy K2AV

On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 12:44 PM, Al Lorona > wrote:

> Right after the CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it
> after sleeping on it which I always do before posting. Now that the issue
> has come up on its own I wish to make an observation.
>
> During the contest I heard many stations with shortened dits. They sounded
> pretty bad and I reckon they weren't listening to themselves else they'd
> have done something about it.
>
> Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of K3's [because some
> of these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous and checked my
> own signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the K3 through
> DTR, but was relieved to find that my dits were okay.
>
> So there's something going on out there, and I don't know what it is, but
> what I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial is proven to work
> well as Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ CW op.
>
> Al W6LX
>
>

-- 
Sent via Gmail Mobile on my iPhone
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[Elecraft] ;Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[James Wilson]

Chuck,
Like many others today, I, too, have some rather severe antenna
restrictions. Before you give up on getting on the air with your K2 or K3,
consider a "screwdriver" antenna. I use a Tarheel mounted on a metal tripod
with caster wheels. I can roll it out onto the driveway when needed. It
works surprisingly well.

​Jim - W4RKS​


>Hello:
>I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other
>equipment/supplies to set up a station, but for a number of
 >reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set up.
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[Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[James Wilson]

Chuck,
Like many others today, I, too, have some rather severe antenna
restrictions. Before you give up on getting on the air with your K2 or K3,
consider a "screwdriver" antenna. I use a Tarheel mounted on a metal tripod
with caster wheels. I can roll it out onto the driveway when needed. It
works surprisingly well.

​Jim - W4RKS​


>Hello:
>I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other
>equipment/supplies to set up a station, but for a number of
 >reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set up.
Click here to Reply or Forward
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[efortner]

There is a program called Ruftz (google it) and I think it is free that
sends call signs. You choose the speed you want to start at and start the
process. It sends a call sign and you type it
In the box. If you get it right it will increase the speed until you miss a
character or number at which point it will decrease the speed. It can
probable send faster than anyone on this list can copy.
Earl, K4KAY

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Danny
Higgins
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 3:34 AM
To: 'Robert G Strickland'; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

Over 40 years ago I wrote a GWBASIC program that sent random 5 letter groups
of letters and/or numbers. Like the Farnsworth system (although we had never
heard of it before) it asked for a starting and a target speed and adjusted
the spacing between letters so that the characters were sent at the target
speed but the thinking time between characters was adjusted to give the
starting speed. If you then typed the characters as they were sent, the
spaces between characters would gradually decrease if you got it right, but
if you got it wrong the letter that was incorrect was given a higher
weighting so that it occurred more often. After a period of correct input,
the weighting would decrease and the speed would start to ramp up again.
This either gets your morse up to your typing speed, or in my case, my
typing up to my morse speed. Groups of letters could be enabled individually
so that someone just starting could begin with EISHTMO before adding
additional letters as proficiency increased.

Unfortunately GWBASIC died with the advent of Windows3 and other versions of
BASIC did not have the BEEP command that was used, but recently I have
rewritten the program in Python and it runs on a Raspberry Pi2 at least up
to 50 WPM.

Danny, G3XVR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
G Strickland
Sent: 05 December 2015 03:22
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, not
the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an overlap
between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, as
the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes easier;
then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over time/trials.
>From my days studying animal learning, I remember significant research to
the effect that starting a new task in the easiest form [slow CW speed]
lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, resulted in quicker and more
accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This is
somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have a
point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start with
3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as long as
the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at a given
speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed in this
fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same fashion for
longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with numbers, complete
call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct neural
networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched, perhaps
like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range of motion
after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to slowly
increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing the speed of
characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in what folks think.

...rober
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Home: 

Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[brian]

RUFZXP. One guy has topped the 1000 character/minute speed (200 WPM)

Just downloaded it a few days ago after years of non-use.  Now has a 
WINDOWS interface instead of the old DOS format.


Contesters start with an advantage since many of the calls in the 
database are real contest participants.  Recognizing these familiar 
calls is easier...



73 de Brian/K3KO


On 12/5/2015 15:13 PM, efortner wrote:

There is a program called Ruftz (google it) and I think it is free that
sends call signs. You choose the speed you want to start at and start the
process. It sends a call sign and you type it
In the box. If you get it right it will increase the speed until you miss a
character or number at which point it will decrease the speed. It can
probable send faster than anyone on this list can copy.
Earl, K4KAY

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Danny
Higgins
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 3:34 AM
To: 'Robert G Strickland'; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

Over 40 years ago I wrote a GWBASIC program that sent random 5 letter groups
of letters and/or numbers. Like the Farnsworth system (although we had never
heard of it before) it asked for a starting and a target speed and adjusted
the spacing between letters so that the characters were sent at the target
speed but the thinking time between characters was adjusted to give the
starting speed. If you then typed the characters as they were sent, the
spaces between characters would gradually decrease if you got it right, but
if you got it wrong the letter that was incorrect was given a higher
weighting so that it occurred more often. After a period of correct input,
the weighting would decrease and the speed would start to ramp up again.
This either gets your morse up to your typing speed, or in my case, my
typing up to my morse speed. Groups of letters could be enabled individually
so that someone just starting could begin with EISHTMO before adding
additional letters as proficiency increased.

Unfortunately GWBASIC died with the advent of Windows3 and other versions of
BASIC did not have the BEEP command that was used, but recently I have
rewritten the program in Python and it runs on a Raspberry Pi2 at least up
to 50 WPM.

Danny, G3XVR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
G Strickland
Sent: 05 December 2015 03:22
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, not
the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an overlap
between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, as
the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes easier;
then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over time/trials.
 From my days studying animal learning, I remember significant research to
the effect that starting a new task in the easiest form [slow CW speed]
lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, resulted in quicker and more
accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This is
somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have a
point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start with
3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as long as
the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at a given
speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed in this
fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same fashion for
longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with numbers, complete
call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct neural
networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched, perhaps
like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range of motion
after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to slowly
increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing the speed of
characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in what folks think.

...rober
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] Disappearing Line Out Audio for Sub Rx

[Dennis Egan]

K3 Firmware 5.10.

When the K3 is put into Diversity and the mode is RTTY, the Line out Audio
for the Sub Rx disappears.

When in Diversity mode, I know there is audio in both headphones; shouldn't
there be audio on both channels of the Line Out?

Do I not have something set correctly, or is this a new feature?

Dennis W1UE
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Re: [Elecraft] Disappearing Line Out Audio for Sub Rx

[KK1W]

I see the same thing Dennis. I thought I was doing something wrong, or maybe
we both are? K3s here with latest firmware.

Jim/KK1W



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Disappearing-Line-Out-Audio-for-Sub-Rx-tp768p7611120.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] ;Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[w4grj]

Jim,
I use the same for portable use, Little Tarheel II screwdriver on a small 
tripod and I use the KISS ground for counterpoise.
Takes about 5 mins to set up and works great!!
Jack
W4GRJ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James 
Wilson
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 9:12 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] ;Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

Chuck,
Like many others today, I, too, have some rather severe antenna restrictions. 
Before you give up on getting on the air with your K2 or K3, consider a 
"screwdriver" antenna. I use a Tarheel mounted on a metal tripod with caster 
wheels. I can roll it out onto the driveway when needed. It works surprisingly 
well.

​Jim - W4RKS​


>Hello:
>I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other equipment/supplies 
>to set up a station, but for a number of
 >reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set up.
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[Elecraft] Expert Amps vs Expert linears

[Charles Yahrling]

Many of you already know this but for those of you like me, who are just
starting to go beyond a barefoot K3,  know that ExpertLinears.com has been
selling and repairing  SA Expert Amps for over 4 years. They are headed up
by Bob Hardie, K5UQ, a well-established, retired broadcast industry
technical professional.  They are far from being a "one-horse" operation.

Expert Amps, evidently now out of business, has never been associated in
any way with ExpertLinears.com. Any SA-Expert 2K-FA delivery delays are due
to back order delays from the factory in Italy.  ExpertLinears.com advises
prospective buyers of this situation to establish realistic delivery
expectations up front.

FWIW, my refurbished and thoroughly tested 1K-FA is on the way to my QTH
and includes a nice 1 year warranty and 30 day no questions money-back
guarantee.

That level of service plus a very good recommendation from a local, top
notch competitor convinced me I wanted to do business with them.

$0.02
73, chuck
-- 
de AB1VL
ab1vl.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop

[Michael Babineau]

Ron makes a very important point here. Using an ATU in place of 
properly resonating a Magnetic Loop is a no-no. 

If the loop, at resonance, doesn’t provide a good match to 50 ohms, then it is 
ok to use the ATU to “fix” the mismatch. Note the use of “fix” in quotations. 
You are really not 
fixing anything, just making the rig see a resistive 50 ohms or something close 
to it
so that it is happy to deliver full power to the loop.  You will incur some 
additional losses in the tuner, but they are likely minor. Just make sure you 
properly resonate the loop before kicking in the ATU. 

One additional  point worth mentioning.  A Magnetic transmitting loop fed via a 
coupling loop works like a transformer.  The 1 to 5 ratio between the size of 
the coupling loop as compared to the main loop provides an impedance 
transformation that should normally give a good match to 50 ohms.  If, at 
resonance, you are consistently seeing an SWR higher than what you would like 
then it is possible to tweak things by either slightly moving the position of 
the smaller coupling loop, or by slightly deforming the coupling loop in the 
vertical plane (i.e. making it rounder or more oval).  It is usually easier to 
just bend the coupling loop. The process is trial and error but usually you can 
find a configuration that will yield a pretty good match on all bands covered 
by the loop.

I had to do this with my MFJ-1786 Hi-Q Loop as the best match I could get at 
resonance
was around 2:1 SWR. With a bit of tweaking it now typically around 1.5 : 1 SWR 
on most
of the bands. 

Michael VE3WMB 

P.S.  Manually resonating a loop by ear is an acquired skill. With practice, 
peaking band
noise will get you very close to resonance without transmitting. Then with a 
second
or two of applied RF, aided by feedback from an SWR meter,  you should be able 
to hit the loop resonance point pretty much dead-on. 


>From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" >
>Date: December 4, 2015 at 4:09:18 PM GMT-5
>To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" >
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2/KX3] Tuning a magloop


>There are two parts to tuning a small transmitting loop antenna: Resonating 
>the loop at the >operating frequency and matching the loop at resonance to the 
>impedance of the feed line.

>The Alexloop tuner sounds like a great idea, provided it does both at the same 
>time.  

>IMX I tune the loop for maximum noise in the receiver. Properly designed small 
>loops have very >high Q, so the peak is very "sharp". 

>If I then transmit and find that the SWR is high, I'm sure the coupling 
>between the loop and the >feed line is not correct. That is, the loop at 
>resonance is not presenting a 50 ohm impedance to >the feed line. 

>So the challenge for optimum power transfer is to adjust the coupling and 
>tuning to get both peak >noise and low SWR at the same time. 

>If you are not worried about feed line losses, I would expect the loop to work 
>just fine using the >ATU at the rig to compensate for the odd impedance 
>presented to it by the feed line, but be sure >to check the loop tuning after 
>the ATU does its job since it will interact with the loop and shift its 
>>resonant frequency somewhat. 

>It's like two people standing up in a rowboat. You both work together or you 
>both get wet. 


>73, Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[Lee Ormiston]

Chuck,
Before you give up on radio hobby, *Amateur Radio Parity Act of 2015*,
H.R.1301 (do not remember number for Senate version) is winding it way
through Congress.  This bill requires home owners associations to make
reasonable (what ever that means) accommodations for amateur radio antennas
due to the essential role amateur radio has played in recent disasters.

Also, ARRL has information regarding Stealth Antennas in:*  The ARRL
Anntena Book 22nd Edition; Antenna Zoning for the Radio Amateur, 2nd
edition; RGSB Stealth Antennas, 2nd edition.*

73, Lee N0RRL

On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 7:15 AM, James Wilson  wrote:

> Chuck,
> Like many others today, I, too, have some rather severe antenna
> restrictions. Before you give up on getting on the air with your K2 or K3,
> consider a "screwdriver" antenna. I use a Tarheel mounted on a metal tripod
> with caster wheels. I can roll it out onto the driveway when needed. It
> works surprisingly well.
>
> ​Jim - W4RKS​
>
>
> >Hello:
> >I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other
> >equipment/supplies to set up a station, but for a number of
>  >reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set up.
> Click here to Reply or Forward
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to ldormis...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Dick Dievendorff]

VE3NEA's freeware MorseRunner is an another popular program for building CW
speed. This is a "pileup" generator, where multiple calls come concurrently,
at varying speeds & tones, with background noise. 

http://www.dxatlas.com/MorseRunner/

There was an old Commodore "Dr. DX" program that I still have around here
somewhere that was an early version of this sort of function.

N6MJ claimed 10,223 QSOs as a single operator (two radio) in CQ WW CW at
ZF2MJ last month.  Dan says he trained for months with two laptops running
MorseRunner, one in each ear.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=no8nGGa99cE

http://www.3830scores.com/showrumor.php?arg=Lwa6zEfymmyvJ

This was a remarkable performance.  > 10K QSOs as a single op?  That's an
average of 3 contacts a minute, for 48 hours.He has a 10 minute spurt of
414 an hour.

Dan also won WRTC 2014 with his colleague KL9A.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
efortner
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 07:13
To: 'Danny Higgins' ; 'Robert G Strickland'
; 'Elecraft' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

There is a program called Ruftz (google it) and I think it is free that
sends call signs. You choose the speed you want to start at and start the
process. It sends a call sign and you type it In the box. If you get it
right it will increase the speed until you miss a character or number at
which point it will decrease the speed. It can probable send faster than
anyone on this list can copy.
Earl, K4KAY

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Danny
Higgins
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 3:34 AM
To: 'Robert G Strickland'; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

Over 40 years ago I wrote a GWBASIC program that sent random 5 letter groups
of letters and/or numbers. Like the Farnsworth system (although we had never
heard of it before) it asked for a starting and a target speed and adjusted
the spacing between letters so that the characters were sent at the target
speed but the thinking time between characters was adjusted to give the
starting speed. If you then typed the characters as they were sent, the
spaces between characters would gradually decrease if you got it right, but
if you got it wrong the letter that was incorrect was given a higher
weighting so that it occurred more often. After a period of correct input,
the weighting would decrease and the speed would start to ramp up again.
This either gets your morse up to your typing speed, or in my case, my
typing up to my morse speed. Groups of letters could be enabled individually
so that someone just starting could begin with EISHTMO before adding
additional letters as proficiency increased.

Unfortunately GWBASIC died with the advent of Windows3 and other versions of
BASIC did not have the BEEP command that was used, but recently I have
rewritten the program in Python and it runs on a Raspberry Pi2 at least up
to 50 WPM.

Danny, G3XVR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
G Strickland
Sent: 05 December 2015 03:22
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, not
the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an overlap
between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, as
the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes easier;
then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over time/trials.
>From my days studying animal learning, I remember significant research to
the effect that starting a new task in the easiest form [slow CW speed]
lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, resulted in quicker and more
accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This is
somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have a
point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start with
3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as long as
the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at a given
speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed in this
fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same fashion for
longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with numbers, complete
call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct neural
networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly 

[Elecraft] KBPF3 mod

[Benny Aumala]

If you upgraded from KSYN3 to a-model, you got
the old unit obsolete.
Maybe you have KBPF3, too and would like to
modify it to low-frequency.
Needed 0,1uF capacitors are available in obsolete old KSYN3.
You need 3, take 6 to be sure. You may loose one or two.

The 250uF condenser is already soldered in new K3S kits.

Benny OH9NB

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Failure

[Dauer, Edward]

Two things.  First, I want to say again how much I appreciate not just 
this reflector, but more so the people who participate in it.  Last night, 
within 20 minutes I had six replies from, literally, across the globe, 
every one of them encouraging and helpful.  Thanks, guys.

Second, for anyone who likes solving puzzles, I am reprinting below my 
recent off-list message to Don Wilhem, W3FPR, to whom the rig will be 
going for further investigation.  Submit your diagnoses and I’ll let you 
know what Don discovers once he actually has the rig on his bench.  No 
prizes available, but it might be fun . . .   Here’s the latest status 
report:

___ 

This morning the symptoms remained:  No LCD light, popping noise in 
speaker, voltages at either side of F1 were 14 with power switch off and 
essentially zero with power switch on.  The same on both sides of D10, and 
the same at the accessory DC power pins.  Resistance from Q7 and Q8 
cathodes to ground was about 2 ohms.

1.  Removed control board and front panel board; tested RF board alone — 
same symptoms (low resistance and apparently a short somewhere on the 13 
VDC line.)  So those boards weren’t the problem

2. Reassembled everything and then removed the heat sink.  Resistance 
measurements at Q7 and Q8 unchanged.  Examined thermal pads, checked 
shoulder washer placement and all associated hardware.  No changes – still 
low resistance from collectors to ground.

3.  Reassembled and tried it again.  No change – no lights, popping noise 
in speaker, voltages as in step 1 above.

4.  As a last ditch effort, decided to change power supplies (had been 
using an MFJ rated at 40 watts.)  Made up a cord to connect K2 to a known 
good supply with a built-in ammeter.  I thought I’d be able to see a 
current spike if there was a short, as F1 opened and closed.  The K2 came 
to life and the current draw was nominal (less than 200 mA.) Switched back 
to the MFJ supply.  That worked too.  Problem solved?  No.  See number 5.

5.  Decided to see if it really was cured.  Connected K2 to a known good 
dummy load, through an SWR meter.  Keyed it with power set to 10 watts – 
but the forward power needle set for full scale barely nudged.  Checked 
the power output as read by the K2’s onboard power meter.  It read 0.5 
watts, no matter where the power control is set.  Confirmed that current 
maximum in the configuration menu was set at 3.5.  It was.  Tried the same 
routine with a known good antenna connected (measured SWR at less than 
1.2:1)  Same results.

I don’t know what all this means, but I am going to take a wild guess.  
Last night something – maybe Q7 or Q8 but maybe something else – developed 
an internal short at exactly the instant I did a direct frequency entry of 
10.000 Mhz (a relay clicks at that point).  This morning, for whatever 
reason, when I changed power supplies, I am guessing that whatever had 
been shorted (or nearly so) burned out, creating an open circuit where 
there had been a low-resistance fault.  Since the rig is producing 0.5 
watts but not more, that makes me think it may be one of the output 
transistors.  Note that, until last night, it happily produced as much as 
15 watts.

In any case, the rig came out of its coma but now it can’t speak. And 
maybe it can’t hear.  Tthe receive function also seems to have been 
degraded – I heard no signals when the antenna was connected – though I 
can check that further by using the K3 to see if anyone is on the bands 
and comparing it to the K2.

So, what do you think is going on?

Ted, KN1CBR  

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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Jim Brown]

On Sat,12/5/2015 10:12 AM, Cady, Fred wrote:

I've summarized some of my thoughts here:
http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/should-i-update-my-k3-with-k3s-parts


I've upgraded my K3s with the new synth board and the KXV3B board. You 
don't need to buy a book to know what I think about it.


I found both upgrades quite worthwhile. The synth board makes your 
signal cleaner and reduces RX phase noise when the band is full of 
strong signals. It can be a very big deal in contests and with big DX 
pileups. The new synth board, combined with a mod to the KBPF3, also 
enables high quality reception below 500 kHz.


It's VERY easy to install. Guys running QRQ say that it improves high 
speed CW significantly (I rarely work above about 34 WPM). If you have 
the Sub-RX, you must install two of the new boards.


The KXV3B includes the new preamp, which helps a lot with weak signals 
on 12, 10, and 6M. Installation is more of a challenge mechanically, 
because physical tolerances make it a bit of a "shoehorn job."


That's as far as I've gone with upgrades -- I'll upgrade to the new 
KIO3B only if it corrects the glaring Pin One Problems present in the 
original KIO3, which I consider the biggest design mistake Elecraft ever 
made.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Robert Harmon]

Robert,

Couple of suggestions for increasing your CW copying speed.

The Farnsworth method of CW training was the most beneficial to me.
With Farnsworth the characters are sent faster than the words.  For 
instance
at 10wpm each character is sent at 20wpm but enough time is added to 
slow down
the rate to 10wpm.  The ARRL adopted this method years ago for their 
morse code
training materials and the W1AW morse transmissions.  For example when 
W1AW is sending

at 18wpm the characters are sent at 20wpm.

Its great to get time in the saddle copying QSO's but to really increase 
your copying speed
you really need to spend some time exercising your copying abilities 
each day.
Practice copying "only" at speeds faster than you can comfortably copy.  
Practice at a speed
where you are only able to copy one or two characters in each word. 
Concentrate !!
Do this for only 10 minutes each day.  If you are really concentrating 
you will find
10 minutes is about when you are ready to throw in the towel for the day 
anyway  :-)
Later on after you find you are able to copy about half of the text then 
increase the speed back
to where you can only copy one or two characters in each word. (This 
isnt supposed to be easy this
is a training exercise.)   We wont increase our copying speed by copying 
the same easier speeds

all the time.  Try this only ten minutes a day and see what happens !

Also don't fret over losing a word or words in a conversation and losing 
the intelligibility of the
conversation,  that happens to all of us and will be remedied when you 
copying speed is increased.


my two cents
Bob
K6UJ







On 12/5/15 9:03 AM, Robert G Strickland wrote:
I have used all the programs mentioned in this thread and have found 
them all useful. I spend most of my practice time with Rufz, 
occasionally going to Morse Runner. I'm not drawn to G4FON's program, 
because there's no way to interact directly with the program as it 
generates code [as with Rufz]. Focusing on Rufz, my initial post 
basically asks about a comparison between starting at the target speed 
and working down or at a slower speed and working up.


I'm quick to acknowledge that all methods/approaches presume that one 
puts in the practice time to become proficient. If one wants to 
increase cw proficiency, then spend a lot of time in cw qso's. No free 
lunches. Recently, when working at the computer on business, I tune in 
a cw qso and just let it go on "at the back of my attention" as I 
work. This seems to be having some positive effect.


What I personally find happening - I'm 75y/o - is that in higher speed 
qso's I start slowly lagging behind the sender until I miss a 
word/words that breaks the intelligibility of the conversation. 
Frustrating! Another point, I think that copying call signs at high 
speed is more demanding in that one doesn't have the conversation 
stream/meaning to help fill in for missed words.


...robert

On 12/5/2015 03:21, Robert G Strickland wrote:

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed,
not the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an
overlap between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably,
as the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes
easier; then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over
time/trials. From my days studying animal learning, I remember
significant research to the effect that starting a new task in the
easiest form [slow CW speed] lessened/prevented errors and, by the end,
resulted in quicker and more accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This
is somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have
a point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start
with 3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as
long as the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at
a given speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed
in this fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same
fashion for longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with
numbers, complete call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct
neural networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched,
perhaps like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range
of motion after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to
slowly increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing
the speed of characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in
what folks think.

...rober




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Kevin Stover]

I've always thought the Farnsworth method was directly responsible for 
the "10 wpm wall" newcomers were running into. Reading "The Art and 
Skill of Radio Telegraphy" Pierpont says the same thing. By stretching 
the time between words you give people more time to translate. if your 
going to copy Morse faster than about 10wpm you don't have time to 
translate. You have to know the character as soon as you hear it without 
using the look up table in your head. The Koch method has no exaggerated 
spacing between words or elements. You want to be proficient at 35 wpm, 
you practice with dit/dah and word speed set for 35 wpm.


Building speed on the air is great as long as the code you are copying 
is "good" code meaning close to properly spaced and timed code. The nice 
thing about the computer programs is they send perfect code. With G4FON 
you can make it more realistic by adding QRM, QRN and QSB in varying 
levels. The only thing your missing is an old timer on his bug sending 
with the "Lake Erie Swing".







--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Disappearing Line Out Audio for Sub Rx

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Dennis,

Do you have a diversity antenna connected to the sub (either the AUX ANT jack, 
or the non-TX KAT3 antenna)?

Also try doing A>B twice.

Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 5, 2015, at 5:05 AM, Dennis Egan  wrote:

> K3 Firmware 5.10.
> 
> When the K3 is put into Diversity and the mode is RTTY, the Line out Audio
> for the Sub Rx disappears.
> 
> When in Diversity mode, I know there is audio in both headphones; shouldn't
> there be audio on both channels of the Line Out?
> 
> Do I not have something set correctly, or is this a new feature?
> 
> Dennis W1UE



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Nate Bargmann]

A similar program called qrq is available in the repositories of various
Linux distributions:

http://fkurz.net/ham/qrq.html

It is written by Fabian Kurz, DJ1YFK, a High Speed Telegraphy champ.

73, Nate, N0NB

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Robert G Strickland]

I have used all the programs mentioned in this thread and have found 
them all useful. I spend most of my practice time with Rufz, 
occasionally going to Morse Runner. I'm not drawn to G4FON's program, 
because there's no way to interact directly with the program as it 
generates code [as with Rufz]. Focusing on Rufz, my initial post 
basically asks about a comparison between starting at the target speed 
and working down or at a slower speed and working up.


I'm quick to acknowledge that all methods/approaches presume that one 
puts in the practice time to become proficient. If one wants to increase 
cw proficiency, then spend a lot of time in cw qso's. No free lunches. 
Recently, when working at the computer on business, I tune in a cw qso 
and just let it go on "at the back of my attention" as I work. This 
seems to be having some positive effect.


What I personally find happening - I'm 75y/o - is that in higher speed 
qso's I start slowly lagging behind the sender until I miss a word/words 
that breaks the intelligibility of the conversation. Frustrating! 
Another point, I think that copying call signs at high speed is more 
demanding in that one doesn't have the conversation stream/meaning to 
help fill in for missed words.


...robert

On 12/5/2015 03:21, Robert G Strickland wrote:

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed,
not the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an
overlap between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably,
as the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes
easier; then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over
time/trials. From my days studying animal learning, I remember
significant research to the effect that starting a new task in the
easiest form [slow CW speed] lessened/prevented errors and, by the end,
resulted in quicker and more accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This
is somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have
a point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start
with 3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as
long as the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at
a given speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed
in this fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same
fashion for longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with
numbers, complete call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct
neural networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched,
perhaps like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range
of motion after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to
slowly increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing
the speed of characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in
what folks think.

...rober


--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Jim Hoge]

I upgraded the KXV3 to the A some time ago and in June, to the B model. What 
sold me on it was the second preamp for 6, 10, and 12m. There is little 
difference in price between the PR6-10 and the KXV3B.I had been waffling on the 
6m preamp for years and when I saw the new XV board, I jumped. No regrets here. 
My noise floor is very low on 6, 10, and 12 so it does help a bit. Honestly 
though, I have seldom used the second preamp on 10 or 12 but 6m, definitely.
73,Jim, W5QM
 


On Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:07 PM, SCDolphin0 
 wrote:
 

 Has anyone upgraded the K3 with either KXV3B, KIO3B or both and any comments?
Thanks Hugh W4DRH
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[ab2tc]

Hi again,

That link may not work with all browsers. Try this if it doesn't:

http://ab2tc.com/new_k3s_usb.png



ab2tc wrote
> Hi Jim,
> 
> Well, I decided to upgrade to the K3S. The old K3 will replace my IC7200
> as the "to-go" station. 
> 





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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[ab2tc]

Hi Jim,

Well, I decided to upgrade to the K3S. The old K3 will replace my IC7200 as
the "to-go" station. The 7200 is more than adequate for my use, but I have
become so dependent on the panadapter with my K3(which the 7200 cannot
support) that I decided on the upgrade. The "to-go" station is mostly used
in the back yard deck on nice summer days.

The new USB port is wonderful. I use it both for control (with HRD) and
audio. One surprise I got was that the factory setting (010) for the line
output (yes, that setting affects the USB audio level) was driving the audio
right into clipping. I had to reduce it to 002 to be comfortably below
clipping level. The audio is fairly clean:

ab2tc.com/new_k3s_usb.png

There is still some junk around 3.9kHz (it's always there regardless of
whether there is a signal in the passband or not.)  The test signal is a
-73dBm signal from the XG3. The radio is in USB mode with passband
300-2700Hz.

So, Jim, I would recommend the KIO3B. The pin one problems should be gone
since you don't need the RS232 port and the line out anymore.

I agree that the new preamp helps a lot on 10m (and undoubtedly on 6m which
I don't use). I have the S-meter set for "absolute", but it does not yet
work with new preamp. Hopefully Elecraft will correct that soon.

I am a happy camper with my new K3S.

AB2TC - Knut



Jim Brown-10 wrote
> On Sat,12/5/2015 10:12 AM, Cady, Fred wrote:
>> I've summarized some of my thoughts here:
>> http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/should-i-update-my-k3-with-k3s-parts
> 
> I've upgraded my K3s with the new synth board and the KXV3B board. You 
> don't need to buy a book to know what I think about it.
> 
> I found both upgrades quite worthwhile. The synth board makes your 
> signal cleaner and reduces RX phase noise when the band is full of 
> strong signals. It can be a very big deal in contests and with big DX 
> pileups. The new synth board, combined with a mod to the KBPF3, also 
> enables high quality reception below 500 kHz.
> 
> It's VERY easy to install. Guys running QRQ say that it improves high 
> speed CW significantly (I rarely work above about 34 WPM). If you have 
> the Sub-RX, you must install two of the new boards.
> 
> The KXV3B includes the new preamp, which helps a lot with weak signals 
> on 12, 10, and 6M. Installation is more of a challenge mechanically, 
> because physical tolerances make it a bit of a "shoehorn job."
> 
> That's as far as I've gone with upgrades -- I'll upgrade to the new 
> KIO3B only if it corrects the glaring Pin One Problems present in the 
> original KIO3, which I consider the biggest design mistake Elecraft ever 
> made.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 





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Re: [Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

[David Glasser]

Hi all,
As a newbie into ham radio my first hurdle was to overcome the "antiquated" 
legislation in the HOA covenants that have not been updated for at least 20 
years!
Inter-alia the covenants stated that no "TV dish antennas" may be erected on 
property, but with ever changing technology and a deteriorating Cable TV 
service, most residents now have a dish antenna and so that "rule" falls into 
the category of dis-use.
Then there is the advent of "drones"; there are no rules governing the use of 
drones in the community, therefor, amidst uproar from the community, many 
drones are used as a hobby, uncontrolled, with no consequence!
My "proposal" for an antenna to the HOA clearly stated these anomalies in their 
management process of the property and I clearly stated and included in my 
proposal as much detail of the Radio Parity Act, together with copies of my 
correspondence to our Florida Senators in Congress.
I am happy to report that after submission of a detailed proposal; it was not a 
week later that I received permission for the erection of a 30 ft vertical, it 
may not be much, but it was a great start to keep my interest going in what I 
hope will be a long association with Ham Radio.
It can be done!!
73's
David Glasser

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lee 
Ormiston
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 10:10 AM
To: James Wilson 
Cc: Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about Selling K2

Chuck,
Before you give up on radio hobby, *Amateur Radio Parity Act of 2015*,
H.R.1301 (do not remember number for Senate version) is winding it way through 
Congress.  This bill requires home owners associations to make reasonable (what 
ever that means) accommodations for amateur radio antennas due to the essential 
role amateur radio has played in recent disasters.

Also, ARRL has information regarding Stealth Antennas in:*  The ARRL Anntena 
Book 22nd Edition; Antenna Zoning for the Radio Amateur, 2nd edition; RGSB 
Stealth Antennas, 2nd edition.*

73, Lee N0RRL

On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 7:15 AM, James Wilson  wrote:

> Chuck,
> Like many others today, I, too, have some rather severe antenna 
> restrictions. Before you give up on getting on the air with your K2 or 
> K3, consider a "screwdriver" antenna. I use a Tarheel mounted on a 
> metal tripod with caster wheels. I can roll it out onto the driveway 
> when needed. It works surprisingly well.
>
> ​Jim - W4RKS​
>
>
> >Hello:
> >I built a K3 a few years and bought a bunch of other 
> >equipment/supplies to set up a station, but for a number of
>  >reasons, I was unable to get an antenna set up.
> Click here to Reply or Forward
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> ldormis...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Disappearing Line Out Audio for Sub Rx

[Richard Ferch]

I am wondering why you would want to use Diversity mode in RTTY, and how 
you would actually make use of it. Diversity mode works by feeding two 
slightly different signals into a single brain that is programmed from 
birth to cope with two such inputs (two ears) and synthesize them into a 
combined information stream, using the phase and amplitude differences 
to add information value. The RTTY decoders I am familiar with don't do 
that; they are monaural.


If you want to use two separate monaural decoders on the audio inputs 
from the two receivers, don't use diversity mode, just turn the subRX on 
and let each decoder decode its own input stream. If the two VFOs are 
not linked, each receiver would be listening to its own frequency 
(SO2V), but if you link the two VFOs (CONFIG:VFO LNK = ON), you can 
force both receivers to listen to the same frequency (presumably on 
different antennas, else what's the point?).


This is different from "diversity decoding", which uses two different 
decoding algorithms on a single audio stream so you can compare the 
results of the two algorithms and pick the one that works best under the 
current instantaneous conditions. You don't need a second receiver for 
that; you can use an arbitrary number of decoders using the same channel 
of the same sound card and get the benefits of diversity decoding even 
with a single receiver.


73,
Rich VE3KI



W1UE wrote:


When the K3 is put into Diversity and the mode is RTTY, the Line out Audio
for the Sub Rx disappears.


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[Elecraft] K3SYNA and RTTY

[Rich]

I installed the new  boards yesterday and decided to give them a test 
drive in the TARA RTTY Melee.


I am decoding perfect copy RTTY signals on extremely weak signals some 
are not even audible to the human ear and the P3 spike looks more like 
the noise floor than a real signal.


Absolutely amazing.

Rich
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[Elecraft] Mods to K3

[SCDolphin0]

Has anyone upgraded the K3 with either KXV3B, KIO3B or both and any comments?
Thanks Hugh W4DRH
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Cady, Fred]

Hi Hugh,
I've summarized some of my thoughts here:
http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/should-i-update-my-k3-with-k3s-parts
Scroll down below the book order form.
73,
Fred KE7X

See www.ke7x.com for all KE7X Elecraft books.



From: Elecraft  on behalf of SCDolphin0 

Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

Has anyone upgraded the K3 with either KXV3B, KIO3B or both and any comments?
Thanks Hugh W4DRH
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

I've upgraded one of my K3s with KXV3B and KSYN3 (x 2) ... absolutely
easy and worthwhile.  I would not put USB control or sound into any
rig as that makes operation of the rig dependent on drivers from the
operating system vendor and OS support typically dies long before the
rig is ready for the scrap heap.

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/5/2015 1:05 PM, SCDolphin0 wrote:

Has anyone upgraded the K3 with either KXV3B, KIO3B or both and any comments?
Thanks Hugh W4DRH
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

So, Jim, I would recommend the KIO3B. The pin one problems should be
gone since you don't need the RS232 port and the line out anymore.


The pin 1 problems continue to exist because the return of the line in,
Line out, and rear panel mic jacks are not tied directly to the chassis.
They still follow an indirect path through the jack board, a pin header,
to the KIO3B and through another pin header to the RF board and finally
to the main circuit common/chassis.  Line in/Line out actually "float"
through audio transformers ...

USB does not have a pin 1 problem but that dos not resolve existing
issues with the microphone input or the "pin 1" issues (failure to tie
the signal returns to the chassis *at the jack*) for all of the other
signals that pass through the KIO3B board.

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/5/2015 2:18 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi Jim,

Well, I decided to upgrade to the K3S. The old K3 will replace my IC7200 as
the "to-go" station. The 7200 is more than adequate for my use, but I have
become so dependent on the panadapter with my K3(which the 7200 cannot
support) that I decided on the upgrade. The "to-go" station is mostly used
in the back yard deck on nice summer days.

The new USB port is wonderful. I use it both for control (with HRD) and
audio. One surprise I got was that the factory setting (010) for the line
output (yes, that setting affects the USB audio level) was driving the audio
right into clipping. I had to reduce it to 002 to be comfortably below
clipping level. The audio is fairly clean:

ab2tc.com/new_k3s_usb.png

There is still some junk around 3.9kHz (it's always there regardless of
whether there is a signal in the passband or not.)  The test signal is a
-73dBm signal from the XG3. The radio is in USB mode with passband
300-2700Hz.

So, Jim, I would recommend the KIO3B. The pin one problems should be gone
since you don't need the RS232 port and the line out anymore.

I agree that the new preamp helps a lot on 10m (and undoubtedly on 6m which
I don't use). I have the S-meter set for "absolute", but it does not yet
work with new preamp. Hopefully Elecraft will correct that soon.

I am a happy camper with my new K3S.

AB2TC - Knut



Jim Brown-10 wrote

On Sat,12/5/2015 10:12 AM, Cady, Fred wrote:

I've summarized some of my thoughts here:
http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/should-i-update-my-k3-with-k3s-parts


I've upgraded my K3s with the new synth board and the KXV3B board. You
don't need to buy a book to know what I think about it.

I found both upgrades quite worthwhile. The synth board makes your
signal cleaner and reduces RX phase noise when the band is full of
strong signals. It can be a very big deal in contests and with big DX
pileups. The new synth board, combined with a mod to the KBPF3, also
enables high quality reception below 500 kHz.

It's VERY easy to install. Guys running QRQ say that it improves high
speed CW significantly (I rarely work above about 34 WPM). If you have
the Sub-RX, you must install two of the new boards.

The KXV3B includes the new preamp, which helps a lot with weak signals
on 12, 10, and 6M. Installation is more of a challenge mechanically,
because physical tolerances make it a bit of a "shoehorn job."

That's as far as I've gone with upgrades -- I'll upgrade to the new
KIO3B only if it corrects the glaring Pin One Problems present in the
original KIO3, which I consider the biggest design mistake Elecraft ever
made.

73, Jim K9YC







--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Mods-to-K3-tp7611137p7611142.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX3 and PX3 screen flickering when scanning.

[Gerard Elijzen]

Hi all,

Just started using the scan function. This is what I got in memory location 1, 
2 and 3.

1. 7.028
2. 7.032
3. 7.050

These three frequencies I am scanning using RCL, select memory location and 
press and hold scan for unmuted that is AF = on.

What I did notice is that the screen on the PX3 flickers a lot to the point 
where this becomes annoying. Is there a way to combat this i.e increasing coms 
speed?

Gerard VK2JNG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Failure

[David Woolley]

I'd agree that the voltage reading do not implicate F1.

However I would also question whether F1 would produce a popping sound, 
although it might through thermal effects, or by affecting the power to 
the audio chain.


F1 isn't a circuit breaker; it is effectively a rather aggressive 
positive thermal coefficient (PTC) thermistor.  When the current gets 
too high, the temperature goes up, this causes the resistance to 
increase, which increases the heat generation for the same current, and 
you have a thermal runaway.  The resistance goes up so fast that it 
limits the current in the device severely before the device gets hot 
enough to self destruct (although its on resistance is permanently 
raised), and the actual current needed to keep it hot is quite low.


Once the current demand drops below the triggered state current, it will 
begin to cool, and at some point, as long as the current remains low, it 
will cool faster than it is being heated and the resistance will drop to 
the point where increasing the current won't cause an immediate runaway.


In the triggered state it reaches an equilibrium, letting through enough 
current to keep it in the high resistance state.  It's not like a 
bi-metal circuit breaker that has no self heating once triggered and 
will eventually reset given just time.


On the other hand, I imagine there are some load conditions in which a 
polyfuse would go into a slow oscillation.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse

--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123

On 05/12/15 04:36, Matt Maguire wrote:


Just a comment on your observations with F1 — if you are applying power and 
measure 0V on both sides of F1, then that suggests that F1 is not open circuit. 
It may indicate that diode D10 has gone high resistance and is dropping the 
13.8V when the radio tries to draw current.

On 5 décembre 2015 at 2:56:47 PM, Dauer, Edward (eda...@law.du.edu) wrote:




Anyone know if F1 has a reset time of just under a second? If so, then
the “popping” noise may be F1 trying to reset itself. Which doesn’t help
locate the downstream problem, of course. But it would strongly suggest a
DC short somewhere rather than some configuration glitch, yes?



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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[w5sum]

I also use the WinKey USB with my K3 and it works flawlessly!

Ronnie W5SUM

-Original Message- 
From: Scott via Elecraft

Sent: Friday, December 04, 2015 8:27 PM
To: kevin.sto...@mediacombb.net ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue


I did the same thing after having the same problem and have to agree  the
WInkey USB is (so far) flawless.

But I really would like to know how Tom avoids the issue directly keying
the radio, especially for portable ops.

Operating under W8.1 with direct keying I had about everything that could
be shutdown, shutdown, and still hit the 30 WPM wall without the  WInkeyer.

Scott ka9p



In a message dated 12/4/2015 7:01:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,
kevin.sto...@mediacombb.net writes:

I've  used a Winkey USB for about four years now. Perfect code. I don't
have to  worry about the PC getting busy and screwing up the CW sent with
serial  lines.

On 12/4/2015 11:44 AM, Al Lorona wrote:

Right after the  CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it

after sleeping on it  which I always do before posting. Now that the issue
has come up on its own I  wish to make an observation.


During the contest I heard many  stations with shortened dits. They
sounded pretty bad and I reckon they  weren't listening to themselves else 
they'd

have done something about  it.


Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of  K3's [because
some of these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous  and 
checked

my own signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the  K3
through DTR, but was relieved to find that my dits were  okay.


So there's something going on out there, and I don't  know what it is,
but what I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial  is proven to 
work

well as Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ  CW op.



Al W6LX




--
R. Kevin  Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC  #3441


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[Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend like
butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to not
over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.

I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?

I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
work.

Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!

Steve N4LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Jim Brown]

On Sat,12/5/2015 11:30 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

The pin 1 problems continue to exist because the return of the line in,
Line out, and rear panel mic jacks are not tied directly to the chassis. 


Thanks for the update, Joe. Very depressing. Pin One Problems have been 
a major source of issues with my K3s.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Wayne Burdick]

Thanks, Ron. I'm also going to look into the thickness of the fibre washers. 
They're supposed to be as tall as the cone to prevent bending.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Dec 5, 2015, at 1:59 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:

> Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here. 
> 
> After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to make
> little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But that
> does not damage the performance of the speaker. 
> 
> As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice coil
> attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
> when the entire frame is distorted. 
> 
> Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting screws
> so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why the
> warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive. 
> 
> It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
> dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can bend
> the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right on
> my workbench. 
> 
> It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
> speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
> possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping company
> "gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages shipments
> very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
> Hi! 
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
> To: Steve Ellington
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker
> 
> Hi Steve,
> 
> Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there
> are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S). The
> frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the hardware
> is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the
> wrong ones were shipped.
> 
> I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> clarified. 
> 
> The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get one
> installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues).
> It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
> shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
> cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> natural resonance point.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:
> 
>> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend 
>> like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers 
>> and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with
> 2 fingers!
>> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
>> 
>> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted 
>> it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold 
>> down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I 
>> awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it
> is junk.
>> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
>> 
>> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at 
>> least work.
>> 
>> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
>> 
>> Steve N4LQ
> 
> 
> 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

If the washers are one micro too thick, air leaks around the speaker
degrading the sound.
If the washers are one micro too thin you can warp the speaker.

The cure is to have a spacer between the speaker and the lid.  No air
should leak. I think of something like a spacer for PC fans or a
carburetor/manifold gasket. Just something stamped out of cardboard would
be fine.

Steve N4LQ


On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Thanks, Ron. I'm also going to look into the thickness of the fibre
> washers. They're supposed to be as tall as the cone to prevent bending.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 1:59 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:
>
> > Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here.
> >
> > After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to
> make
> > little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But
> that
> > does not damage the performance of the speaker.
> >
> > As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice
> coil
> > attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
> > when the entire frame is distorted.
> >
> > Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting
> screws
> > so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why
> the
> > warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive.
> >
> > It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
> > dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can
> bend
> > the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right
> on
> > my workbench.
> >
> > It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
> > speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
> > possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping
> company
> > "gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages
> shipments
> > very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
> > Hi!
> >
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> > Burdick
> > Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
> > To: Steve Ellington
> > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and
> there
> > are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S).
> The
> > frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the
> hardware
> > is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if
> the
> > wrong ones were shipped.
> >
> > I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> > clarified.
> >
> > The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one
> > installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your
> issues).
> > It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
> > shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
> > cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> > natural resonance point.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> > On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington 
> wrote:
> >
> >> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> >> like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers
> >> and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent
> with
> > 2 fingers!
> >> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >>
> >> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted
> >> it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold
> >> down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I
> >> awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically
> it
> > is junk.
> >> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >>
> >> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at
> >> least work.
> >>
> >> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >>
> >> Steve N4LQ
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message
> > delivered to r...@elecraft.com
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[Joel Black]

…until said OS decides to change how they work with peripherals. “Every” and 
“no way” are absolutes like “always” and “never.”

I have a USB device that is not recognized in OS X 10.11. Well, that’s not 
entirely true. It’s recognized for how it connects (via USB) but not for what 
it is (an audio device). I cannot upgrade unless I upgrade (buy new) the 
device. The manufacturer has not made new drivers for it as of this past week 
sometime. It has something to do with something called the “USB stack.” I am 
not a programmer nor do I pretend to know how an OS interfaces with the 
hardware on a computer. What I do know is that my E-MU 0204 sound card does not 
work in OS X 10.11.

So, if Apple (or Microsoft or any OS) decides to change the way the OS operates 
with peripherals and manufacturers of devices won’t make a new driver, you’re 
hosed.

Knut, I have to respectfully disagree based on my own experience just the past 
couple of months.

73,
Joel - W4JBB

> On Dec 5, 2015, at 4:27 PM, ab2tc  wrote:
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> I don't share your pessimism about the future support of the USB devices (2)
> presented by the K3S. These are standard USB audio and comms devices
> supported by every OS and computing device in existence (including MACs).
> There is just no way that future devices and OS' will abandon these devices
> in the foreseeable future. Representatives of Elecraft made this same
> argument several years ago, but the fact that they are now offering the USB
> port, to me, means that they are now satisfied that this is not going to be
> a problem. There is absolutely no effort needed by Elecraft to keep this
> going into the foreseeable future.
> 
> AB2TC - Knut
> 
> 
> Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote
>> I've upgraded one of my K3s with KXV3B and KSYN3 (x 2) ... absolutely
>> easy and worthwhile.  I would not put USB control or sound into any
>> rig as that makes operation of the rig dependent on drivers from the
>> operating system vendor and OS support typically dies long before the
>> rig is ready for the scrap heap.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>>   ... Joe, W4TV
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Mods-to-K3-tp7611137p7611157.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[wb6rse1]

Getting “hosed” can be a self-inflicted wound. Early adoption of the latest and 
greatest OS always has it’s risks especially if you don’t immediately need the 
OS upgrade enhancements. Always make sure that all critical applications and 
hardware drivers you use are compatible with any new OS before upgrading. Many 
hw drivers often lag an OS release. Always make a complete system backup to 
allow reverting to an earlier OS version if disaster strikes. If the're going 
to be any problems others will have discovered them first. Then plan for sw and 
hw upgrades accordingly.

Caveat emptor.

73 - Steve WB6RSE

> 
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 3:35 PM, Joel Black  wrote:
> 
> So, if Apple (or Microsoft or any OS) decides to change the way the OS 
> operates with peripherals and manufacturers of devices won’t make a new 
> driver, you’re hosed.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Danny Higgins]

Over 40 years ago I wrote a GWBASIC program that sent random 5 letter groups
of letters and/or numbers. Like the Farnsworth system (although we had never
heard of it before) it asked for a starting and a target speed and adjusted
the spacing between letters so that the characters were sent at the target
speed but the thinking time between characters was adjusted to give the
starting speed. If you then typed the characters as they were sent, the
spaces between characters would gradually decrease if you got it right, but
if you got it wrong the letter that was incorrect was given a higher
weighting so that it occurred more often. After a period of correct input,
the weighting would decrease and the speed would start to ramp up again.
This either gets your morse up to your typing speed, or in my case, my
typing up to my morse speed. Groups of letters could be enabled individually
so that someone just starting could begin with EISHTMO before adding
additional letters as proficiency increased.

Unfortunately GWBASIC died with the advent of Windows3 and other versions of
BASIC did not have the BEEP command that was used, but recently I have
rewritten the program in Python and it runs on a Raspberry Pi2 at least up
to 50 WPM.

Danny, G3XVR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
G Strickland
Sent: 05 December 2015 03:22
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v-
practice fast

The following comments/questions focus on increasing CW copying speed, not
the task of initially learning the code. That said, there may be an overlap
between the two tasks.

W1AW starts its CW practice speeds fast and then slows down. Presumably, as
the speed get slower the mental demand lessens and copying becomes easier;
then, ease of copying starts occurring at higher speeds over time/trials.
>From my days studying animal learning, I remember significant research to
the effect that starting a new task in the easiest form [slow CW speed]
lessened/prevented errors and, by the end, resulted in quicker and more
accurate learning.

I tend to practice 3-letter groups at 35-40 wpm, 5-letter groups at
30-35 wpm, and 7-letter groups at 25-30 wpm [for better or worse]. This is
somewhat geared to DX contesting since call signs are not "words."

All that said, I'm starting to wonder if the animal study folks may have a
point. How about the reverse of the above approach. For example, start with
3-letter groups at an error free speed, slowing increasing speed as long as
the error rate stays under some value [5%, say]. Keep working at a given
speed until the error rate is reached, then increment. Proceed in this
fashion until a goal speed is reached. Then, repeat in the same fashion for
longer letter groups. The same approach could be used with numbers, complete
call signs, and sweepstakes type exchanges.

The general idea is to minimize the error rate so that only correct neural
networks are formed in the brain. These can be slowly stretched, perhaps
like increasing strength in weight training and increasing range of motion
after orthopedic surgery, all the time working at the edge to slowly
increase capacity. This might also be applicable to increasing the speed of
characters as in the Farnsworth method. I'm interested in what folks think.

...rober
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Bill Rowlett]

The best way to learn CW is the same as learning any language, by the sound of 
the letters or charters. The speed you use to practice is not important, it is 
writing down the letter when heard, over and over again. K7QO has a CW program 
on his site which does just that. Also, it is finding the time and dedication 
to put in the time needed. K7QO by the way has won copy contest at over 100wpm, 
he knows what he speaks.

Just my two cents. Now, back to the practice.

73 and good DX

Bill  KC4ATU


On Dec 5, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Stover  wrote:

> I've always thought the Farnsworth method was directly responsible for the 
> "10 wpm wall" newcomers were running into. Reading "The Art and Skill of 
> Radio Telegraphy" Pierpont says the same thing. By stretching the time 
> between words you give people more time to translate. if your going to copy 
> Morse faster than about 10wpm you don't have time to translate. You have to 
> know the character as soon as you hear it without using the look up table in 
> your head. The Koch method has no exaggerated spacing between words or 
> elements. You want to be proficient at 35 wpm, you practice with dit/dah and 
> word speed set for 35 wpm.
> 
> Building speed on the air is great as long as the code you are copying is 
> "good" code meaning close to properly spaced and timed code. The nice thing 
> about the computer programs is they send perfect code. With G4FON you can 
> make it more realistic by adding QRM, QRN and QSB in varying levels. The only 
> thing your missing is an old timer on his bug sending with the "Lake Erie 
> Swing".
> 
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> ARRL
> FISTS #11993
> SKCC #215
> NAQCC #3441
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here. 

After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to make
little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But that
does not damage the performance of the speaker. 

As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice coil
attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
when the entire frame is distorted. 

Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting screws
so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why the
warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive. 

It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can bend
the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right on
my workbench. 

It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping company
"gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages shipments
very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
Hi! 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
To: Steve Ellington
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there
are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S). The
frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the hardware
is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the
wrong ones were shipped.

I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
clarified. 

The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get one
installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues).
It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
natural resonance point.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:

> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend 
> like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers 
> and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with
2 fingers!
> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> 
> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted 
> it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold 
> down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I 
> awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it
is junk.
> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> 
> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at 
> least work.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> 
> Steve N4LQ



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

That warning dates back to the early days of the K2.  Originally no 
fiber washers were provided, and several builders tightened the screws 
excessively and deformed the speaker frame.  That warning has been 
present in manuals calling for mounting the speaker ever since.
The screws should be tightened securely, but not "beefed down" such as 
to squeeze the fiber washers enough to deform them - and that will 
deform the speaker frame.


Like Wayne, I have not heard of this problem with the K3 or the K3S and 
have not heard of similar problems with the K2 after the fiber washers 
were introduced.  There is an occasional bad speaker encountered, so I 
would tend to believe this is a "one-off" case of a bad speaker.


There *are* two different thicknesses of fiber washers used in Elecraft 
kits.  The thinner ones are used on the K2 PA mounting hardware, and the 
thicker ones are used for mounting the speakers. Perhaps Steve was sent 
the thinner fiber washers with his kit (that is only a guess on my part).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/5/2015 4:35 PM, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

I have an older K3 and a spare speaker (part #E850300).  Its hard to imagine flange being 
bent with little 4-40 screws, BUT, in my assembly manual p52, last step above Figure 
74,it states in BOLD lettering, "Do not tighten the screws enough to bend the 
speaker flanges!"
IF this were not an issue sometime in the past,  one wonders why such a warning 
would be stated in bold letters? Otherwise I find the little speaker to be 
as Wayne describes in his reply.   Steve could you really be the first out of 
so many thousands to actually bend the flanges?
73,MikeAC5P


 On Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:11 PM, Wayne Burdick  
wrote:
  


  Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there are 
tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S). The frame 
should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the hardware is not 
over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the wrong ones 
were shipped.

I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be 
clarified.

The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get one 
installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues). It 
has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large shielded 
magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top cover mounting 
surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low natural resonance point.

73,
Wayne
N6KR




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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there are 
tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S). The frame 
should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the hardware is not 
over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the wrong ones 
were shipped.

I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be 
clarified. 

The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get one 
installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues). It 
has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large shielded 
magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top cover mounting 
surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low natural resonance point.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:

> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend like
> butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to not
> over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> 
> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
> to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
> sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
> replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> 
> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
> work.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> 
> Steve N4LQ



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[ac5p]

I have an older K3 and a spare speaker (part #E850300).  Its hard to imagine 
flange being bent with little 4-40 screws, BUT, in my assembly manual p52, last 
step above Figure 74,it states in BOLD lettering, "Do not tighten the screws 
enough to bend the speaker flanges!"   
IF this were not an issue sometime in the past,  one wonders why such a warning 
would be stated in bold letters? Otherwise I find the little speaker to be 
as Wayne describes in his reply.   Steve could you really be the first out of 
so many thousands to actually bend the flanges?   
73,MikeAC5P    


On Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:11 PM, Wayne Burdick  
wrote:
 

 Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there are 
tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S). The frame 
should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the hardware is not 
over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the wrong ones 
were shipped.

I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be 
clarified. 

The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get one 
installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues). It 
has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large shielded 
magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top cover mounting 
surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low natural resonance point.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:

> I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend like
> butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to not
> over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
> I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> 
> I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
> to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
> sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
> replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
> I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> 
> I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
> work.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> 
> Steve N4LQ



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Phil Anderson]

I followed you comments with interest. You might find my blog on CW 
interesting too.
Work has kept me too busy to keep the blog up right now but I expect to get 
back to it after the turn of the year.
You might find the twenty or so blogs of interest. Google thecodecircle to 
get to the tinyletter blogs.


73 and happy holidays, Phil, W0XI
Lawrence, KS.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

Mike
Trust meI was very gentle, especially the second time around.

The cardboard trim around the speakers is thicker than the fiber washers
therefore the speaker ears do tend to bend.
The washers should be thicker or the speaker ring should be thinner.

AnywayLeaving bolts this loose isn't good construction practice anyway.
Surely a better method of attaching a simple speaker to a piece of metal
can be found.

On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 4:35 PM,  wrote:

> I have an older K3 and a spare speaker (part #E850300).  Its hard to
> imagine flange being bent with little 4-40 screws, BUT, in my assembly
> manual p52, last step above Figure 74,it states in BOLD lettering, "Do not
> tighten the screws enough to bend the speaker flanges!"
>
> IF this were not an issue sometime in the past,  one wonders why such a
> warning would be stated in bold letters? Otherwise I find the little
> speaker to be as Wayne describes in his reply.   Steve could you really be
> the first out of so many thousands to actually bend the flanges?
>
> 73,
> Mike
> AC5P
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:11 PM, Wayne Burdick 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and
> there are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and
> K3S). The frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and
> the hardware is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead
> to see if the wrong ones were shipped.
>
> I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> clarified.
>
> The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your
> issues). It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very
> large shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large
> top cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> natural resonance point.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:
>
> > I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> like
> > butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers and to
> not
> > over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with 2 fingers!
> > I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >
> > I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted it
> > to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold down the
> > sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I awaited a
> > replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it is junk.
> > I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >
> > I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at least
> > work.
> >
> > Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker

[Steve Ellington]

People have been bolting speakers to face plates, grills, wood boxes and
panels for the past 75 years using wrenches, pliers and huge screwdrivers
and air powered drills and probably nails. Someone finally invented a way
to screw it up.



On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 4:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> Hi Steve. Ron (Tech writer) AC7AC here.
>
> After r/r the speaker in a K3, K3 and K3S many times, I have managed to
> make
> little dimples in the frame ears around the lock washers and nuts. But that
> does not damage the performance of the speaker.
>
> As you probably know, the distortion and buzzing occurs with the voice coil
> attached at the center of the cone rubs against the magnet. That happens
> when the entire frame is distorted.
>
> Such distortion can result from aggressively tightening the mounting screws
> so that the ring were the voice coil is attached is bent, which is why the
> warning in the assembly procedure. But it takes being very aggressive.
>
> It can happen as a result of handling too, particularly if the speaker is
> dropped, even when in its box. The magnet is heavy enough that it can bend
> the frame members supporting the magnet on impact. I did that once right on
> my workbench.
>
> It sounds like the factory accidentally may have sent you a defective
> speaker, since you obviously are aware of the distortion issue. Or it's
> possible the box containing the speaker was the victim of a shipping
> company
> "gorilla" dribbling it across the sorting table. Elecraft packages
> shipments
> very well, but I never underestimate the abilities of shipping companies,
> Hi!
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 12:11 PM
> To: Steve Ellington
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Internal Speaker
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Sorry to hear about this. I've never heard this complaint before (and there
> are tens of thousands of these speakers in use, in both the K3 and K3S).
> The
> frame should not bend if the correct fibre washers are used and the
> hardware
> is not over-tightened. I'll check with our manufacturing lead to see if the
> wrong ones were shipped.
>
> I'll also check with our tech writer. Perhaps the instructions could be
> clarified.
>
> The internal speaker is certainly of high quality, so I hope you can get
> one
> installed (I'm sure customer support will send another, given your issues).
> It has excellent sensitivity (95 dB SPL, due in part to the very large
> shielded magnet) and a wide frequency response range. Given the large top
> cover mounting surface, the internal speaker is quite loud, with a low
> natural resonance point.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Steve Ellington  wrote:
>
> > I've made 2 attempts to install a speaker in my new K3s but they bend
> > like butter and distort. I was very careful to use the fiber washers
> > and to not over tighten the bolts. The frame of the speaker can bent with
> 2 fingers!
> > I've never seen such a flimsy speaker.
> >
> > I had a brand x speaker in the junk box that worked great but I wanted
> > it to be original especially since the speaker is necessary to hold
> > down the sub receiver's shield. The junk speaker worked fine while I
> > awaited a replacement but the new  replacement did the same. Basically it
> is junk.
> > I wonder if they washers they sent are too thin?
> >
> > I never use the internal speaker anyway but feel like it should at
> > least work.
> >
> > Has anyone else noticed this? Otherwise I love the K3s!
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods to K3

[ab2tc]

Hi Joe,

I don't share your pessimism about the future support of the USB devices (2)
presented by the K3S. These are standard USB audio and comms devices
supported by every OS and computing device in existence (including MACs).
There is just no way that future devices and OS' will abandon these devices
in the foreseeable future. Representatives of Elecraft made this same
argument several years ago, but the fact that they are now offering the USB
port, to me, means that they are now satisfied that this is not going to be
a problem. There is absolutely no effort needed by Elecraft to keep this
going into the foreseeable future.

AB2TC - Knut


Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote
> I've upgraded one of my K3s with KXV3B and KSYN3 (x 2) ... absolutely
> easy and worthwhile.  I would not put USB control or sound into any
> rig as that makes operation of the rig dependent on drivers from the
> operating system vendor and OS support typically dies long before the
> rig is ready for the scrap heap.
> 
> 73,
> 
>... Joe, W4TV
> 





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[Elecraft] KXAT3 Memory

[John Maass]

​My KXAT3 internal antenna tuner clicks and finds a match for my KX3. It
has been an intelligent and flawless work horse for using my doublet on all
HF bands, 450-ohm line, 4:1 balun, and short coax, good reports, fine DX.
However, it now appears to be failing to remember settings. It began by
needing resetting upon band changes. Then it began needing resetting
within band. Then needing resetting upon even small changes in VFO
frequency. Now it has taken to not holding a setting at all. Upon
transmitting, antenna SWR will go high. Tapping ATU TUNE again will begin a
new matching process. And, again, SWR goes high upon transmitting. Have any
of you experienced this? Have any of you a known remedy? I have begun tests
with an imperfect dummy load (a 15-watt light bulb). The KXAT3 will bring
the light bulb's SWR of 3.3:1 down to 1.5:1. When transmitting, SWR reverts
to 3.3:1.

John, K7JKZ
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Re: [Elecraft] KXAT3 Memory

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Check the ATU menu setting - it should be set to AUTO.
As another thought, are you connected to the computer running software 
that could possibly issuing a [CLR] command?  That will reset the ATU 
memory for whichever band you are operating on.
Think about anything you might have added/changed since it performed 
properly in the past.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/5/2015 8:27 PM, John Maass wrote:

​My KXAT3 internal antenna tuner clicks and finds a match for my KX3. It
has been an intelligent and flawless work horse for using my doublet on all
HF bands, 450-ohm line, 4:1 balun, and short coax, good reports, fine DX.
However, it now appears to be failing to remember settings. It began by
needing resetting upon band changes. Then it began needing resetting
within band. Then needing resetting upon even small changes in VFO
frequency. Now it has taken to not holding a setting at all. Upon
transmitting, antenna SWR will go high. Tapping ATU TUNE again will begin a
new matching process. And, again, SWR goes high upon transmitting. Have any
of you experienced this? Have any of you a known remedy? I have begun tests
with an imperfect dummy load (a 15-watt light bulb). The KXAT3 will bring
the light bulb's SWR of 3.3:1 down to 1.5:1. When transmitting, SWR reverts
to 3.3:1.

John, K7JKZ
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K2/10 package: deal underway

[Al Gulseth]

Transaction is in process, TNX to all who replied. 73, Al

On Thu December 3 2015 11:44:29 am Al Gulseth wrote:
> K2/10, 6K S/N, KSB2, KAF2, KNB2, manuals. Asking $575 shipped CONUS. More
> info/pics on request.
>
> TNX/73, Al
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] increasing CW copy speed: practice slow -v- practice fast

[Bob N3MNT]

Danny

Can you share the Python code?




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