Re: [Elecraft] Ham radio Deluxe

[Cady, Fred]

One thing to check to make sure you don't have a cable plugged into the K3s 
Line In jack.  If you do, that will shut off the signal from the USB audio 
interface.
Cheers,
Fred KE7X

For KE7X Elecraft books, see www.ke7x.com


From: Elecraft  on behalf of 
g0c...@virginmedia.com 
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 6:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ham radio Deluxe

Merry  new year to all.
I am having trouble  operating  HRD  psk31  to my K3s.
I can set it up to receive  via the K3s usb   no problem. The tx is produced  
by the pc but not keying the K3s.
I have tried  all the settings  in the manual.
I also us the P3  all linked to the pc with the proper  cables.
Any ideas?
Go cut .  Keith

Sent from Samsung Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

[Barry N1EU]

Dave, can you comment on how the isolation compares between the CM500
and the SB-45?  Does the SB-45 provide more isolation?

Thanks & 73,
Barry N1EU

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:39 PM, Dave Hachadorian  wrote:
> It's quite a coincidence that you asked about the Koss SB-45, because I just 
> got one for Christmas!  Mine is the one with 3.5mm connectors, not the USB 
> version.  I also have a CM-500.
>
> I was going to post a review here after wearing the SB-45 all next weekend in 
> the RTTY Roundup, but here are my first impressions.
>
> The microphone quality is fine.  The SB-45 needed about 3 dB more boost in TX 
> EQ #4 to sound like the CM-500.  The mic is an electret.  Do not confuse this 
> unit with the SB-40, which has a dynamic mic, and apparently doesn’t sound so 
> good.
>
> The audio out of the headphones is also fine, just as good and loud and 
> distortion-free as the CM-500, at least for communications use.  I haven't 
> tried either headset on music.
>
> I wore them for 1.5 hours on a long-winded net this morning, and they were 
> totally comfortable over that time period.  I do wear eyeglasses.  People on 
> the net said the audio sounded just like the CM-500.  I'll give a better 
> long-term comfort report after the RTTY Roundup.
>
> The cord is nice and long, and the mic and headphone wires can be separated 
> easily to go to different places, after cutting a little rubber thingie that 
> keeps them together.  My mic goes to the back of a computer on the floor, and 
> my headphones go to an SO2R box on the table.
>
> The SB45 is around $25 on Amazon, compared to $55 for the CM-500.
>
> I think this headset is going to be a keeper, but I’ll give a long term 
> comfort report next week.
>
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Gregory
> Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 3:26 PM
> To: Elecraft List
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets
>
> Seasons greetings one and all.
>
> Has anyone used/using the Koss SB45 headsets on their K3?
>
> I have the CM-500 and I am on my second set but again the padding is
> starting to deteriorate so before they look too ratty, figured I would get
> a backup and as the CM500 are not available in VK but the Koss SB45 are, I
> would appreciate any comments/advice the list may offer.
>
> Just to let you all know, I love my Yamaha cm500 BUT, shipping cost from
> the US is really quite ridiculous these days and the AUD has fallen off a
> cliff and the parachute failed to open...:-)
>
> The Koss SB45 are $69.00 AUD, free shipping. I like free...:-)
>
> TIA
>
> 73
> Gary
>
> --
>
>
>
> *Gary - VK1ZZ, K3NHLSkype: Gary.VK1ZZhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zz
> Motorhome Portable*
> *Miss Behavin'*
>
>
> *Elecraft K3KPA500FT  #18KAT500FT  #007*
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S, fldigi and Windows 10

[Anthony Scandurra]

Classic Shell is free. It also provides the familiar Start Menu.

http://www.classicshell.net/

73, Tony K4QE

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 11:54 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Even simpler - right-click on the little speaker icon in the lower right
> (the task bar).  You will then get a menu (It's called a Context Menu) that
> contains, among other things, "Input Devices" and "Output Devices".  Click
> on "Output Devices".
>
> You will find displayed a dialog box with all of your output devices.  I
> say "all" because if you're running Windows 10 you're probably running a
> fairly modern computer and you're likely to have at least three.  You will
> probably have an HDMI output and possibly a Digital Output.  Hopefully,
> you'll have one simply called "Speakers".  Highlight the device and then
> click on the Properties button on the lower left. You'll now have another
> dialog with some tabs along the top.  You should see Audio output as the
> first item.
>
> Lower down you should see controls to adjust your input levels as well.
> You might have several.  Some systems have a "line in" as well as a "mic
> in".  "Line in" is preferable if you have one.  The next tab over is
> "Enhancements".  It's wise to be sure that all "Enhancements" are turn
> off.  You can insure this is so by clicking and checking "Disable all sound
> effects".
>
> So - netting it out - Right-click on the speaker icon located on the right
> side of the task bar.  Then choose "Output Devices" and you're all set.
>
> And taking just a moment to stand on my soap box,  I spent many years
> working as a Usability Engineer at IBM.  I'm also a Windows 10 Beta
> Tester.  I can say, without a doubt, Windows 10 is the best Windows ever.
> Windows 7 has pretty much been abandoned with only the most critical
> security updates being issued.
>
> I understand some people don't like the menu system. I don't either and
> fought as hard as I could to convince the deciders that they were making a
> mistake - to no avail.  They have a long term strategy that they are
> convinced will win over time.
>
> For the here and now, you can greatly improve Windows 10's usability by
> installing Start 10  . It's
> costs $4.99 and well worth it.  This is advice not an advertisement.  With
> Start 10 installed, your Windows 10 computer will look and work very much
> like windows 7.  There is also Start 8 for people still using the tragedy
> known as Windows 8.
>
> And please, this isn't a Windows 10 problem.  Windows has worked pretty
> much the same way for these devices for the past 20 years.
>
> 73, Doug -- K0DXV
>
> On 12/28/2015 1:39 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>
>> That sounds suspiciously like an entirely Windows 10 issue.
>>
>> Click on settings.
>>
>> In the "find a setting" box type "volume" without the quotes.
>> The window will switch to a new label "Search Results". click on "Adjust
>> system volume"
>>
>> You should get a new panel labeled "Volume Mixer".
>>
>> Your sound device should be listed. If not, click on the "find and fix
>> audio playback problems" line under Search Results.
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> I have no comments about the new arrangement and naming of Windows
>> functionality.
>>
>> 73, Guy K2AV
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Bob Novas  wrote:
>>
>> I've managed to hookup my K3S to my Windows 10 box and receive PSK31 using
>>> fldigi, but I'm not having success transmitting.  I put the K3S in VOX
>>> mode,
>>> USB, 14.070. I set the Mic+LIN to ON.  When I click the Tune button on
>>> fldigi, the K3S transmits, but with very low output.  I can't find any
>>> audio
>>> Volume control in Windows 10 to adjust the volume - the one control I
>>> think
>>> might be the correct control is at max output.  It's hard to identify
>>> what
>>> audio device is what.  Any hints?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Also, the VOX is slow to go from Transmit to Receive when I stop
>>> transmitting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Are there any resources (e.g., documentation) specifically directed to
>>> fldigi + K3S?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks, Bob - W3DK.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> __
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>> Message delivered to k0...@aol.com
>>
>>
> 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[Robert Harmon]

Knut,

Its up here.

Happy New Year to you too !!

Bob
K6UJ




On 12/29/15 10:53 AM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi all,

Is Elecraft's web site down?

AB2TC - Knut

PS. Happy New Year, all.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

[Ian White]

Agreed, the SB-45 is excellent. The electret mic seems to be the same as the 
one used in the Koss CS-100, which has proved to work very well indeed with the 
K3/S and a number of other rigs. Once the EQ, Compressor and Noise Gate have 
been set up correctly, the same mic also suits a wide range of voices and 
attracts favourable comments for both ragchewing and contesting. 

Beyond that, it's merely a personal choice between styles of headphones. I 
prefer the closed-cup style of the SB-45 while my wife prefers the lightweight 
on-ear style of the CS-100; but otherwise they are interchangeable.

Definitely recommended.


73 from Ian GM3SEK

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave 
Hachadorian
Sent: 28 December 2015 23:40
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

It's quite a coincidence that you asked about the Koss SB-45, because I just 
got one for Christmas!  Mine is the one with 3.5mm connectors, not the USB 
version.  I also have a CM-500.

I was going to post a review here after wearing the SB-45 all next weekend in 
the RTTY Roundup, but here are my first impressions.

The microphone quality is fine.  The SB-45 needed about 3 dB more boost in TX 
EQ #4 to sound like the CM-500.  The mic is an electret.  Do not confuse this 
unit with the SB-40, which has a dynamic mic, and apparently doesn’t sound so 
good.

The audio out of the headphones is also fine, just as good and loud and 
distortion-free as the CM-500, at least for communications use.  I haven't 
tried either headset on music.

I wore them for 1.5 hours on a long-winded net this morning, and they were 
totally comfortable over that time period.  I do wear eyeglasses.  People on 
the net said the audio sounded just like the CM-500.  I'll give a better 
long-term comfort report after the RTTY Roundup.

The cord is nice and long, and the mic and headphone wires can be separated 
easily to go to different places, after cutting a little rubber thingie that 
keeps them together.  My mic goes to the back of a computer on the floor, and 
my headphones go to an SO2R box on the table.

The SB45 is around $25 on Amazon, compared to $55 for the CM-500.

I think this headset is going to be a keeper, but I’ll give a long term comfort 
report next week.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ





-Original Message-
From: Gary Gregory
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 3:26 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets 

Seasons greetings one and all.

Has anyone used/using the Koss SB45 headsets on their K3?

I have the CM-500 and I am on my second set but again the padding is starting 
to deteriorate so before they look too ratty, figured I would get a backup and 
as the CM500 are not available in VK but the Koss SB45 are, I would appreciate 
any comments/advice the list may offer.

Just to let you all know, I love my Yamaha cm500 BUT, shipping cost from the US 
is really quite ridiculous these days and the AUD has fallen off a cliff and 
the parachute failed to open...:-)

The Koss SB45 are $69.00 AUD, free shipping. I like free...:-)

TIA

73
Gary

-- 



*Gary - VK1ZZ, K3NHLSkype: Gary.VK1ZZhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zz
Motorhome Portable* *Miss Behavin'*


*Elecraft K3KPA500FT  #18KAT500FT  #007* 
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request: Audio balance control for K3

[Jeff Schmidt]

Ah, could be, Barry, I'll shut up now.  ;^)

For main/main balance, the first thing that comes to mind is running 
line out to either a mixer (like a Behringer XENYX 302USB ~$50 on 
amazon) or sound card and using the pan/balance built in to that device.


Jeff, KC9WSJ

On 12/29/2015 9:59 AM, Barry N1EU wrote:

I think the OP was asking for main/main L/R balance control which SUB
AF will not provide

73, Barry N1EU

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 9:15 AM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:

Mike,
CONFIG: SUB AF: bALANCE will do what you want, minus the individual EQ
curve.

Jeff, KC9WSJ

On 12/29/2015 6:10 AM, Mike Keller wrote:

Would it be possible in software to add an audio balance control?
As time has gone by my left ear takes a lot more drive to match the right
and it's probably going to get worse.
In my best of all worlds it would be great to set an Eq curve individually
too.

Tnx
Mike Keller
W1BNC


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Internal Noise Bursts every 12 seconds or so

[Bob]

Thanks for the ideas, Mike!

Well I can rule out the Filter Board, as the noise is still there when the
Filter Board is removed.

I hoped I could remove the CPU to see if there was an issue there, but with
the CPU gone, the audio is eliminated (probably need to pull something high
or low to get the audio back).

In looking over the Front Panel Schematic quickly, my attention was drawn
to the 6 volt power supply generated on the Front Panel ("6A") and
distributed to several high gain parts of the RF board.  Any noise on 6A is
going to be an issue.  I also noted that there is no traditional bulk
storage cap on the input of the 78L06 regulator, U4, typically .3 to 10 uF,
and while there are a few decoupling caps on the output, the closest one to
U4 is several inches away C5.  The output cap on a 78L series regulator is
typically 0.1uF mounted as close to possible.  Finally the original
specified regulator has been obsoleted and a different unit was substituted.

I've seen issues with TO92 cased 78L series regulators breaking into some
strange oscillations when the input or output caps are not sufficient.  So
I'm going to check that out too.

For the moment I will ignore it and move forward to complete the TX section.

73, Bob, WB4SON



On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 11:46 PM, Mike Morrow  wrote:

> Bob wrote:
>
> > Even though the second CPU on the filter board is mostly inactive, no
> > telling what internal loops are going on that might result in it turning
> > that 4 MHz resonator into a periodic signal.
>
> In addition to the relays on the filter board itself, the PIC on the KFL1
> board controls RF board relay K1 (the RF Attenuate ATTN relay).  But that
> info is not likely to help isolate the problem you report.
>
> I own K1 #175 that I built in November 2000.  It was unfortunately a
> lightning strike victim a few months ago, ending almost 15 years of
> service.  A most excellent radio for all thoses years.
>
> I have never before read a report of a problem similar to what you
> describe, except for one in 2001 in which a burst of internal noise was
> generated on 20m after going from transmit to receive.  This was caused by
> the PIC on the KNB1 noise blanker PCB, and1 was corrected by adding a 0.01
> uF capacitor on the PIC's Vdd line to ground.  It's a long shot, but you
> may want to check the installation of the similar capacitors on the Display
> PCB (C4) and KFL1-2 (C27).
>
> Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,12/29/2015 7:57 AM, John Macrae wrote:

I run /P on a 35aH lead acid battery. Whilst there is a noticeable voltage
drop, I have worked dx till the battery voltage falls well below 11v
without any noticeable effects on signal quality (I asked)!


It is well known that IMD (splatter, clicks) with a K3 is least with 
higher DC supply voltage, and increases as the supply voltage is lower. 
By 11V, it's increased a lot.


IMD is also reduced when the K3 operates at lower power. This is helpful 
when you're driving a power amp. The KPA500 needs about 25-30W for full 
power, my big 1.5kW tube amps need about 50W.


There is a menu setting for the DC voltage below which the K3 will not 
transmit. Check the manual.

I have also run from a battery in the shack with a charger connected. No
problem.


I currently run from two big 6V golf cart batteries that are 
float-charged by a regulated DC supply. With the charger connected, I 
get about 13.4V on TX. Without the charger, the voltage falls below 11.5 
V when the batteries are getting low. Because I'm usually driving an 
amp, I have my K3s set to cut off at 11V.



Clearly the larger the battery,  the less problems you will have.


Yes, but the battery chemistry also matters. The "normal" operating 
voltage of LiFePO4 batteries is at least a volt higher than lead-acid, 
and the discharge curve is flatter. The problem is that LiFePO4 is 
currently a lot more expensive, and the chemistry requires a special 
charger.  Prices are gradually dropping, and eventually that's likely 
where I'll end up.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: K3 100W w/ ATU, upgraded synth, etc.

[John Shadle]

Considering purchasing a K3S and am interested in helping someone else
realize their dream of owning an amazing rig, in the process.

K3/100 (S/N 110)
- KSYN3A (upgraded synth)
- KAT3 (100W antenna tuner)
- KBPF3 (general coverage receive filter)
- KXV3A (RX Ant, IF Out & Xvrtr Int)
- 2.7 kHz SSB/CW filter
- K3DSPUPGD (Rev. D DSP board)
- K3DSPLPF (Low Pass Filter to roll off RX audio above 4 kHz)

This K3 has received all of the recommended upgrades and is as up-to-date
(except the newly released KIO3B module) as possible. Documentation will be
provided with the transceiver of all upgrades.

Asking $2750 + actual shipping to your QTH (or local pick-up). USPS Money
Order or bank cheque/cashier's check preferred.

Works 100%. Non-smoking home, excellent physical condition, etc. Photos
available upon request.

Rig will be double-boxed and shipped via UPS.

73
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

Is Elecraft's web site down?

AB2TC - Knut

PS. Happy New Year, all.



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[Elecraft] Help for K3 Battery Operation

[John]

Sir,

Having had an opportunity to operate my K3 on battery several Field Days ago
I made the following discoveries:

1)  Unless there have been changes made to the K3 line, the transceiver
turns itself off when the supply voltage drops below a nominal 11.5 VDC.

Now you may think this is a rare occurrence; in reality, with any battery,
voltage dips occur due to hefty current surges (typically 20 Amps) on SSB.
I used/and still use a 110 AHr GMS Deep Cycle battery.

The resultant voltage drops were a complete disaster

2)  There is a solution which I now use for K3 operation on battery.  TE
Systems sells voltage boosters which will maintain a constant 13.6 VDC
regardless of the transceiver's current draw.

However, the battery should be fully charged to start and I use a 75 watt
solar panel in parallel with the battery to mitigate current surges during
daylight operation.

3)  Night operation using the TE device is limited to battery voltage
which should not be allow to go below 10.5 VDC else you'll ruin the battery.
TE sElls a meter bridge measuring both input (battery) and output (device)
voltages for their units to facilitate night time ops.

Lots of luck,

73,

John Kountz, WO1S/6, T6EE

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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Marc Veeneman]

My K3/P3/VGA monitor are happy with power from 
http://bioennodepot.com/lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4-batteries/bioenno-power-12v-40ah-lfp-battery-pvc-blf-1240w.html

It's small enough to lie flat on a shelf with 3.5" clearance with a footprint 
smaller than my iPad.

My KX3/PX3/KXPA100 run on another identical battery.  These have plenty of 
capacity to power 100 watts CW for longer than I can stay active.  They start 
out at 13.2 volts and stay there for hours.  I do use #10 AWG wire, though, to 
minimize resistive loss.
-- 
Marc W8SDG

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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[John Macrae]

I run /P on a 35aH lead acid battery. Whilst there is a noticeable voltage
drop, I have worked dx till the battery voltage falls well below 11v
without any noticeable effects on signal quality (I asked)!
I have also run from a battery in the shack with a charger connected. No
problem.

Clearly the larger the battery,  the less problems you will have.

GL and 73
John, C6ATS

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 15:43 Marc Veeneman  wrote:

> My K3/P3/VGA monitor are happy with power from
> http://bioennodepot.com/lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4-batteries/bioenno-power-12v-40ah-lfp-battery-pvc-blf-1240w.html
>
> It's small enough to lie flat on a shelf with 3.5" clearance with a
> footprint smaller than my iPad.
>
> My KX3/PX3/KXPA100 run on another identical battery.  These have plenty of
> capacity to power 100 watts CW for longer than I can stay active.  They
> start out at 13.2 volts and stay there for hours.  I do use #10 AWG wire,
> though, to minimize resistive loss.
> --
> Marc W8SDG
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[ac5p]

I've been running my K3 on a 55Ah Optima Yellow Top 34/78-OY almost daily for 7 
years now with no issues.   A small 3A float charger keeps it topped off.I 
operate primarily CW at 60W barefoot and reduce power further if using amp.   
Have found most remote ops cant detect difference between 60 and 100W.
Mike AC5P   

On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 8:58 AM, Juliean Galak  
wrote:
 

 I'm contemplating using a battery rather than a power supply to run a K3s and 
am wondering how well it does on 12V (as opposed to the 13.8V most supplies 
deliver).  Comments appreciated"

Juliean
KD2JPF 
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request: Audio balance control for K3

[Barry N1EU]

I think the OP was asking for main/main L/R balance control which SUB
AF will not provide

73, Barry N1EU

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 9:15 AM, Jeff Schmidt  wrote:
> Mike,
> CONFIG: SUB AF: bALANCE will do what you want, minus the individual EQ
> curve.
>
> Jeff, KC9WSJ
>
> On 12/29/2015 6:10 AM, Mike Keller wrote:
>>
>> Would it be possible in software to add an audio balance control?
>> As time has gone by my left ear takes a lot more drive to match the right
>> and it's probably going to get worse.
>> In my best of all worlds it would be great to set an Eq curve individually
>> too.
>>
>> Tnx
>> Mike Keller
>> W1BNC
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Internal Noise Bursts every 12 seconds or so

[Mike Morrow]

Bob wrote:

> In looking over the Front Panel Schematic quickly, my attention was
> drawn to the 6 volt power supply generated on the Front Panel ("6A")
> and distributed to several high gain parts of the RF board.  Any noise
> on 6A is going to be an issue.  I also noted that there is no traditional
> bulk storage cap on the input of the 78L06 regulator, U4, typically .3 to 10
> uF, and while there are a few decoupling caps on the output, the closest one
> to U4 is several inches away C5.  The output cap on a 78L series regulator
> is typically 0.1uF mounted as close to possible.  Finally the original
> specified regulator has been obsoleted and a different unit was substituted.

I wrote previously:

>> It's a long shot, but you may want to check the installation of the
>> similar capacitors on the Display PCB (C4) and KFL1-2 (C27).

I would look closely on the Front Panel PCB (whicn I erroneously called the 
Display PCB above) at C4 (0.047 uF) on the 6A line to U1 pin 1 and 11.  It of 
course is on the output of regulator U4.  It would be interesting to see what 
happens to the noise if a similar cap was installed in parallel with C4.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[Matt Zilmer iPhone]

It's ok from twc.com.

Matt

Always store beer in a dark place. - R. Heinlein



> On Dec 29, 2015, at 10:53 AM, ab2tc  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Is Elecraft's web site down?
> 
> AB2TC - Knut
> 
> PS. Happy New Year, all.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-web-site-tp7611976.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Just Starting in Digital Modes

[Mark Tosiello]

Hi,

As a ham since 2006, I've been working pretty much straight phone and
hand-keyed (paddled) CW. I've recently been bitten by the DXing/Contesting
bug, and this has led me not only to work very hard on my CW skills (a mode
I really, really like but which I'm still a novice at), but to take an
interest in exploring the digital modes.

I've recently built both the KX3 and PX3 kits with ATU and Roofing Filter,
and I'm blown away by the quality of this little radio and its visual
sibling. I DO have the cable kit.

I'd like to ask for both recommendations on Windows or Mac software to
begin working with (fPSK, RTTY and CW at least), and for fairly entry-level
step by step instructions (a link is fine) as to how to get the entire mess
cabled.

Currently, I've got the KX3 and PX3 connected in standard fashion, a Heil
Headset/Mic attached to the phones/mic jacks, and one of several keys (K8RA
paddles, J-38 key, Begali Camelback, Vibroplex Original Chrome Deluxe)
connected to the Key jack. Acc1 from the PX3 is connected via KX3 USB cable
to my laptop.  I have a Win 7 laptop (which I MAY upgrade to 10, it's an
old Core 2 Duo) with headphone in and out and lots of USB ports and an
early Mac Pro Tower (1.1 2006 model) running Lion. My understanding is that
the stereo cables from my cable set connect KX3 mic in with Laptop
Headphones Out, and Laptop Mic in with KX3 headphones out. One thing I
wonder is if there is another way to listen to the signal (CW or other)
while still seeing the decode/waterfall on the computer.

I do have Fldigi and the Free version of HRD. My contesting (logging)
software is N3FJP. I have no problems with Rig Control via USB, but I'm
having trouble getting connected to any sort of software which supports
digital mode or CW deode and getting other than gibberish.  I know I'm
doing something wrong.LOL

Thanks all, and all help and digital "Elmering" will be appreciated! I did
purchase Fred Cady's wonderful KX Line book, which is where I started.

73, Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Just Starting in Digital Modes

[Barry LaZar]

Mark,
I think you have the basics. My view is that you can run an 
integrated station better on a PC. That is what most of the good 
software is written for. I use HRD 6 as my basic logging software and 
N1MM+ for contesting. The difference aren't all that great between what 
you have and what I run. There may be one exception. N1MM+ integrates 
with Fldigi as it's FSK interface. I don't know if your contesting 
software does the same. If it doesn't, switch over. You should feel 
comfortable with N1MM as it plays quite similarly to W3FJP.


I don't use the PX3. I use Win4K3. However, the important thing is 
that you can see what is happening and react faster than if you had a 
second receiver, IMHO.


I use the KX3 and just love it for contesting. One addition you 
might want to make is to add a Winkeyer to your collection of stuff. It 
is an external keyer that can be keyed by your contesting software or 
just used as your main keyer. In contesting, you set up your macros on 
the software and just click on a button or hit a function key and your 
radio starts to send that information. It really cuts down on your 
fatigue and increases your Qs rate. All of the rest of it is just 
practice. Get into as many contests as you can. You will make 
adjustments to your operation as you gain experience, but everyone does.



73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Mark Tosiello" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 12/29/2015 11:04:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Just Starting in Digital Modes


Hi,

As a ham since 2006, I've been working pretty much straight phone and
hand-keyed (paddled) CW. I've recently been bitten by the 
DXing/Contesting
bug, and this has led me not only to work very hard on my CW skills (a 
mode

I really, really like but which I'm still a novice at), but to take an
interest in exploring the digital modes.

I've recently built both the KX3 and PX3 kits with ATU and Roofing 
Filter,

and I'm blown away by the quality of this little radio and its visual
sibling. I DO have the cable kit.

I'd like to ask for both recommendations on Windows or Mac software to
begin working with (fPSK, RTTY and CW at least), and for fairly 
entry-level
step by step instructions (a link is fine) as to how to get the entire 
mess

cabled.

Currently, I've got the KX3 and PX3 connected in standard fashion, a 
Heil
Headset/Mic attached to the phones/mic jacks, and one of several keys 
(K8RA

paddles, J-38 key, Begali Camelback, Vibroplex Original Chrome Deluxe)
connected to the Key jack. Acc1 from the PX3 is connected via KX3 USB 
cable
to my laptop.  I have a Win 7 laptop (which I MAY upgrade to 10, it's 
an

old Core 2 Duo) with headphone in and out and lots of USB ports and an
early Mac Pro Tower (1.1 2006 model) running Lion. My understanding is 
that

the stereo cables from my cable set connect KX3 mic in with Laptop
Headphones Out, and Laptop Mic in with KX3 headphones out. One thing I
wonder is if there is another way to listen to the signal (CW or other)
while still seeing the decode/waterfall on the computer.

I do have Fldigi and the Free version of HRD. My contesting (logging)
software is N3FJP. I have no problems with Rig Control via USB, but I'm
having trouble getting connected to any sort of software which supports
digital mode or CW deode and getting other than gibberish.  I know I'm
doing something wrong.LOL

Thanks all, and all help and digital "Elmering" will be appreciated! I 
did

purchase Fred Cady's wonderful KX Line book, which is where I started.

73, Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

[Dave Hachadorian]

I just turned on my AL-1500 Amplifier and checked sound 
isolation.  The SB-45 and CM-500 are about the same in sound 
isolation.  Neither one is particularly good.



Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ



-Original Message- 
From: Barry N1EU

Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 9:52 AM
To: Dave Hachadorian
Cc: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

Dave, can you comment on how the isolation compares between the 
CM500

and the SB-45?  Does the SB-45 provide more isolation?

Thanks & 73,
Barry N1EU

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:39 PM, Dave Hachadorian 
 wrote:
It's quite a coincidence that you asked about the Koss SB-45, 
because I just got one for Christmas!  Mine is the one with 
3.5mm connectors, not the USB version.  I also have a CM-500.


I was going to post a review here after wearing the SB-45 all 
next weekend in the RTTY Roundup, but here are my first 
impressions.


The microphone quality is fine.  The SB-45 needed about 3 dB 
more boost in TX EQ #4 to sound like the CM-500.  The mic is an 
electret.  Do not confuse this unit with the SB-40, which has a 
dynamic mic, and apparently doesn’t sound so good.


The audio out of the headphones is also fine, just as good and 
loud and distortion-free as the CM-500, at least for 
communications use.  I haven't tried either headset on music.


I wore them for 1.5 hours on a long-winded net this morning, 
and they were totally comfortable over that time period.  I do 
wear eyeglasses.  People on the net said the audio sounded just 
like the CM-500.  I'll give a better long-term comfort report 
after the RTTY Roundup.


The cord is nice and long, and the mic and headphone wires can 
be separated easily to go to different places, after cutting a 
little rubber thingie that keeps them together.  My mic goes to 
the back of a computer on the floor, and my headphones go to an 
SO2R box on the table.


The SB45 is around $25 on Amazon, compared to $55 for the 
CM-500.


I think this headset is going to be a keeper, but I’ll give a 
long term comfort report next week.


Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ





-Original Message-
From: Gary Gregory
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 3:26 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 comments on Koss SB45 headsets

Seasons greetings one and all.

Has anyone used/using the Koss SB45 headsets on their K3?

I have the CM-500 and I am on my second set but again the 
padding is
starting to deteriorate so before they look too ratty, figured 
I would get
a backup and as the CM500 are not available in VK but the Koss 
SB45 are, I

would appreciate any comments/advice the list may offer.

Just to let you all know, I love my Yamaha cm500 BUT, shipping 
cost from
the US is really quite ridiculous these days and the AUD has 
fallen off a

cliff and the parachute failed to open...:-)

The Koss SB45 are $69.00 AUD, free shipping. I like free...:-)

TIA

73
Gary

--



*Gary - VK1ZZ, K3NHLSkype: Gary.VK1ZZhttp://www.qsl.net/vk1zz
Motorhome Portable*
*Miss Behavin'*


*Elecraft K3KPA500FT  #18KAT500FT  #007*
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[Ian Kahn]

Knut,

I just pulled it up on my AT mobile phone, using Chrome.

Try clearing your browser's cache and your computer's DNS cache and see if
that helps.

73 de,

Ian, KM4IK
On Dec 29, 2015 2:01 PM, "Robert Harmon"  wrote:

> Knut,
>
> Its up here.
>
> Happy New Year to you too !!
>
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
>
>
>
> On 12/29/15 10:53 AM, ab2tc wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Is Elecraft's web site down?
>>
>> AB2TC - Knut
>>
>> PS. Happy New Year, all.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-web-site-tp7611976.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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>>
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>> Message delivered to k...@pacbell.net
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Bill Mader]

Actually, IMD in the PA increases significantly as battery voltage drops!
For example, during Field Day a few years ago someone kicked off the
generator power to our SSB station which kept operating on the back-up
battery.  Sometime later the CW captain stopped by asking if we had changed
anything.  He could hear "splatter" from our 20m signal on his 20m rig.
This was not the case earlier in the day.

I checked everything and discovered the AC power issue.  I turned the outlet
switch back to On and checked with the 20m CW operator.  His reception had
immediately cleaned up!  He no longer heard anything from 20 SSB the rest of
the (non-contest) event.  BTW, we went on to take 4th place overall with
just six transmitters (2012).

When driving a KPA500, this is much less of an issue since the K3 runs
typically under 30 Watts for 500 Watts from the KPA500.  NC0B has spoken
frequently, in less than glowing terms, about IMD issues in 12 VDC (nominal)
PA's.

I've seen a number of comments recently that some folks don't care if their
radios' TX IMD is high.  That attitude is exemplified in many DX pileups.  I
have raised my power supply's voltage in an effort to keep my TX IMD as low
as possible based on my reading and empirical evidence related above.

73, Bill, K8TE
Albuquerque DX Assn

Message: 23
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 15:57:18 +
From: John Macrae 
To: Marc Veeneman , Juliean Galak 
Cc: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?
Message-ID:

Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Don Wilhelm]

Read Bill's post carefully.  Notice that he had no indication of the 
effects of poor IMD due to low power supply voltage.  You will *not* 
hear bad reports from the stations you contact.
However, your signal will "splatter" over the band at frequencies away 
from where you are transmitting.
Be kind to your ham 'neighbors' (and they do not have to be in close 
proximity) and keep that power supply voltage up to reduce the transmit 
IMD.  Most Elecraft products will be happy with a power supply voltage 
up to 15 volts.  I recommend a power supply voltage of 13.8 volts (the 
voltage of a fully and recently charged "12 volt" lead acid battery).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 7:00 PM, Bill Mader wrote:

Actually, IMD in the PA increases significantly as battery voltage drops!
For example, during Field Day a few years ago someone kicked off the
generator power to our SSB station which kept operating on the back-up
battery.  Sometime later the CW captain stopped by asking if we had changed
anything.  He could hear "splatter" from our 20m signal on his 20m rig.
This was not the case earlier in the day.

I checked everything and discovered the AC power issue.  I turned the outlet
switch back to On and checked with the 20m CW operator.  His reception had
immediately cleaned up!  He no longer heard anything from 20 SSB the rest of
the (non-contest) event.  BTW, we went on to take 4th place overall with
just six transmitters (2012).




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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 PSK distortion

[DGB]

Thanks foTalked with Elecraft and they sent me a paper on setting up the 
different modes for the K3/0. One thing I was doing wrong was using Data 
A when they recommend USB. Seems to be okay now with some more signal 
reports.


HNY to all 73 de NS9I Dwight

On 12/29/2015 5:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dwight,

You have the audio level set correctly if you are getting 4 bars on 
the ALC meter with the 5th one flickering at times.
Are you using DATA A mode?  If you are using USB mode, you must 
manually turn off compression and set the equalizer flat.  Using DATA 
A does that automatically.
Another thing to consider is that the soundcard output of the laptop 
may be distorted.  You might try an external soundcard.
Do you have distortion in SSB voice operation?  If no distortion in 
SSB, there is likely nothing wrong with the K3.


Those are the only things I can think of at the moment - unless the 
problem is with the receiving station.
One nice thing about remote operation (if the transmitter is really a 
good distance from your control position), you can use another 
receiver and computer to monitor your data mode signals yourself.  A 
modest antenna should do OK for receiving your signal so you may be 
able to 'sneak it' by the HOA or your building manager.  Think stealth 
antennas for portable work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 4:37 PM, DGB wrote:

I'm using a new K3/0 mini and the remoteRig boxes to remote my K3.

I'm getting reports of my PSK looking like I'm over driving it.

I have my laptop soundcard level set down to 10 as recommended by 
Brandon. When xmtg I set the ALC level to 4 with 5th flickering or 
even just 4. If I go any lower I get no output.








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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 PSK distortion

[Don Wilhelm]

Dwight,

I don't have experience with Remote Rig, and Brandon's suggestions usurp 
mine.  One thing I know is that if you are using USB mode instead of 
DATA A, you will have to set compression to zero and set the TX EQ to 
flat.  Failure to do that will result in distorted data transmissions.


73 es HNY,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 7:45 PM, DGB wrote:
Thanks foTalked with Elecraft and they sent me a paper on setting up 
the different modes for the K3/0. One thing I was doing wrong was 
using Data A when they recommend USB. Seems to be okay now with some 
more signal reports.


HNY to all 73 de NS9I Dwight

On 12/29/2015 5:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dwight,

You have the audio level set correctly if you are getting 4 bars on 
the ALC meter with the 5th one flickering at times.
Are you using DATA A mode?  If you are using USB mode, you must 
manually turn off compression and set the equalizer flat.  Using DATA 
A does that automatically.
Another thing to consider is that the soundcard output of the laptop 
may be distorted.  You might try an external soundcard.
Do you have distortion in SSB voice operation?  If no distortion in 
SSB, there is likely nothing wrong with the K3.


Those are the only things I can think of at the moment - unless the 
problem is with the receiving station.
One nice thing about remote operation (if the transmitter is really a 
good distance from your control position), you can use another 
receiver and computer to monitor your data mode signals yourself.  A 
modest antenna should do OK for receiving your signal so you may be 
able to 'sneak it' by the HOA or your building manager.  Think 
stealth antennas for portable work.


73,
Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] OLD SCHOOL RADIOs in CARS!!!

[Jim Davis]

Hey LYNN,

Back when I was a young lad in Jr College (1965-1969) my Dad had bought me a 
1954 VW Bug and the original radio in it was a “SEARS AM vacuum tube receiver 
and then when I started working part-time we managed to save up enough $$$ for 
a “MOTOROLA 6V neg gnd AM RADIO and thought it was the BEST WHILE LISTENING TO 
“KFRC” here in the “Bay Area”!!!  Now that we’re a lot older & WISER it’s 
really neat to remember HOW HARD IT REALLY WAS TO GET NEW GADGETS way back WHEN 
!!!

Warmest Regards,
Jim Davis-NN6EE
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 APRS and AX.25

[Barry LaZar]

Rob,
If all you plan to do is run packet/APRS on 2 meters, I would 
suggest that the KX3 is a waste of a good radio. You'd be better served  
by buying an inexpensive 2 meter FM rig. It has everything you should 
need, and I'm unaware of any APRS activity on 70 cm.


There are two meter rigs that already have TNCs built in like the 
ones that Kenwood sells. Or you can use software TNCs by just using the 
audio in and out of a sound card. When you think about it, there are 
good reasons to have separate VHF and HF gear.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Rob Ogilvie" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 12/29/2015 4:06:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 APRS and AX.25


Howdy!

I'm quite intrigued by what the KX3 can potentially do as an SDR, and 
am
considering trying to get one.  There are some downsides to the KX3 
I've
noted (price and lack of 70cm being two big ones), but the 
possibilities it

opens up are pretty awesome to imagine.

I've been playing around quite a bit with packet (AX.25 and APRS over 
2m

thus far) and am having a hard time figuring out if the KX3 offers
advantages over a traditional transceiver's data port.  They both 
/appear/

to require a TNC, although I'm not entirely sure if that's actually the
case with the KX3.

Is anybody doing 2m AX.25/APRS over their KX3 who could share some 
details

about their setup?  I'm really close to sticking with a simple VHF/UHF
mobile instead of the KX3 as packet is a majority of what I'm 
interested in
right now; then upgrade to a KX3 when I have the time to get into HF - 
but
if the KX3 offers true advantages in this space, I may get my forever 
radio

in a KX3 now...

Thoughts?

Rob / K8AXE
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Internal Noise Bursts every 12 seconds or so

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

Can you describe "noise burst" - is it more of a "tick", or if it is 
longer, what is the approximate duration.
You will likely have to short the signal path at several points to 
isolate it.  One such point is the input to the product detector - 
solder a jumper between pins 1 and 2 of T2.  If it disappears, you will 
have to look further toward the antenna - jumper from the base of Q3 to 
ground (or between pins 3 and 4 of RP6).
OTOH, if it is still present with the jumper across T2, the next jumper 
to install is between pins 2 and 3 of U3 (which should do the same as 
when the K1 is muted).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 12:35 PM, Bob wrote:

Thanks for the ideas, Mike!

Well I can rule out the Filter Board, as the noise is still there when the
Filter Board is removed.

I hoped I could remove the CPU to see if there was an issue there, but with
the CPU gone, the audio is eliminated (probably need to pull something high
or low to get the audio back).




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 for sale

[Irwin Darack]

KX3 is sold.

Happy New Year to everyone.

Irwin KD3TB

On Monday, December 28, 2015, Irwin Darack  wrote:

> If Santa didn't bring you any good toys this holiday season, I have a KX3
> for sale:
>
> KX3 Transceiver
> KXAT3 Auto Tuner
> KXBC3 Internal Charger with Clock ( never installed)
> KXFL3 Roofing Filter
> MH3 Microphone
> KXUSB USB Interface
> KX3-2M AT 2 meter module with Auto Tuner
> KX3-PCKT Cable set
>
> Asking Price is $1,300.00 USD + Shipping and Insurance or Best Offer
>
> PayPal accepted ( if you use PayPal Purchase they add a 3% surcharge)
> CONT USA Only
> Non-Smoking Environment used as a second radio, lightly used, mint
> condition
>
> Irwin KD3TB
>
>
>
> --
> Irwin KD3TB
>


-- 
Irwin KD3TB
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Once upon a time, car battery manufacturers made 8 volt batteries.  
These were for cars with 6v systems that were aging, and a couple of 
extra volts made up for a lot of problems.


Might take a bit to figure out how to charge them, but a 6v plus an 8v 
battery would give you a really clean supply just over 14 volts.


73 -- Lynn

On 12/29/2015 9:55 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
Yes, but the battery chemistry also matters. The "normal" operating 
voltage of LiFePO4 batteries is at least a volt higher than lead-acid, 
and the discharge curve is flatter. The problem is that LiFePO4 is 
currently a lot more expensive, and the chemistry requires a special 
charger.  Prices are gradually dropping, and eventually that's likely 
where I'll end up.


73, Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 140, Issue 39

[Oliver Johns]

Like John, T6EE, I use a TGE Solutions booster unit.  (In my case the marine 
model
stores.tgelectronics.org/n8xjk-marine-booster 
  with a 35Ah AGM 
battery.)
It is set for 14 volts and, according to the K3 voltage metering, holds that 
voltage 
with battery voltage as low as 11 Volts.

My question is, has anyone with an oscilloscope done any tests of the DYNAMIC 
behaviour of 
this or similar units under the rapidly varying load presented by SSB or Morse? 
 If the voltage fluctuates
under a rapidly varying load, this could lead to distortion in the K3 output 
regardless of the 
DC load values.

73,

Oliver
W6ODJ



> On 29 Jan. 2015, at 16:45 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
> 2)  There is a solution which I now use for K3 operation on battery.  TE
> Systems sells voltage boosters which will maintain a constant 13.6 VDC
> regardless of the transceiver's current draw.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - N1MM & keyboard

[David Gilbert]

I don't understand ... why do you need to keep using the K3 memories?  
N1MM has all the easy-to-program memories you need via the keyboard 
function keys, and if you used a key mapper like AutoHotKey you could 
add dozens more.   It doesn't make any sense to me to use the keyboard 
just to trigger the K3 memories.  What am I missing?


Dave   AB7E


On 12/29/2015 6:41 AM, Gary Smith wrote:

Thanks for the replies on & off list.

I've tried to follow the documentation on the N1MM site and thus far
I haven't been able to get any communication from the memories to the
K3. I only have one COM port on the computer and though I checked
that in the config setup to also be for CW, I'm guessing I may need
another COM port as the pictorial shows three ports available with
one of them for the radio and another for CW. If that's the case,
I'll likely need a different computer as this one is a HP slimline
and is very limited in what it can do and like a inexpensive laptop,
hardware can not be added to it.

I don't want this topic to become what some will consider an off
topic thread as many here likely don't use N1MM with their K3 so
please send your comments direct to me.

If there is a good link for setting up the K3 with N1MM, I'd like to
know about it, I Google search found one for how to do this with the
Flex but that's not Elecraft.

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J


When I contest I use N1MM, use the memories on the K3 and send with
the key when needed & I'm busy as a one arm paper hanger doing it
this way. I'd like to just use the keyboard, use N1MM to the fullest
and use the paddles only when needed.

What's an affordable & simple method of getting the keyboard to work
with N1MM & the K3?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] MARC & K3s Battery !!!

[Jim Davis]

Dear OB,

Here in Concord, CA I run my “K3/P3” via a “Kyocera-140w/Sun Pwr controller+2 
140amp/hr marine batteries” 24/7 and have NOT had a failure YET in 4yrs !!!  
Eventhough it’s not exactly what you’d stated I’ve been able to UTILIZE 
solar-power very effectively and have achieved “revenue-neutrality” as far as 
our COSTS ARE CONCERNED running the K3/P3 combo !!!  As OUR local UTILITY 
COMPANY ain’t charging ME ANYTHING FOR RUNNING OUR HAM GEAR as for that part of 
our HF STATION OUR USE OF IT IS “FREE"!!!

REGARDS,

JIM/NN6EE
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

[Va3ied]

Has there been progress on this? I have the luck to have a garden shed at 
the base of my tower with 12. Volt powerit all works in principle and in
practice...just a bit of a pain to run back and forth when there is a fault
or other issue. Kind of reminds me of watching green acres as a
kid...remember when he had to climb the pole to answer the phone? 





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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 PSK distortion

[Don Wilhelm]

Dwight,

You have the audio level set correctly if you are getting 4 bars on the 
ALC meter with the 5th one flickering at times.
Are you using DATA A mode?  If you are using USB mode, you must manually 
turn off compression and set the equalizer flat.  Using DATA A does that 
automatically.
Another thing to consider is that the soundcard output of the laptop may 
be distorted.  You might try an external soundcard.
Do you have distortion in SSB voice operation?  If no distortion in SSB, 
there is likely nothing wrong with the K3.


Those are the only things I can think of at the moment - unless the 
problem is with the receiving station.
One nice thing about remote operation (if the transmitter is really a 
good distance from your control position), you can use another receiver 
and computer to monitor your data mode signals yourself.  A modest 
antenna should do OK for receiving your signal so you may be able to 
'sneak it' by the HOA or your building manager.  Think stealth antennas 
for portable work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 4:37 PM, DGB wrote:

I'm using a new K3/0 mini and the remoteRig boxes to remote my K3.

I'm getting reports of my PSK looking like I'm over driving it.

I have my laptop soundcard level set down to 10 as recommended by 
Brandon. When xmtg I set the ALC level to 4 with 5th flickering or 
even just 4. If I go any lower I get no output.




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Re: [Elecraft] Ham radio Deluxe

[Don Wilhelm]

Keith,

Check your audio, you should be driving the audio so you have 4 bars 
illuminated with the 5th bar flickering on the K3S ALC meter.
If you are operating in USB mode, I suggest you change to DATA A data 
submode.  That will automatically set compression off and the 
equalization to flat.
You have 2 controls to adjust the audio drive.  One is in the computer, 
set the slider for the soundcard in use to about 2/3 of full scale for 
starters, and set the MIC SEL to LINE IN - the MIC Gain control in the 
K3S will allow you to control the gain of the LINE IN signal.
BTW, if you are using the internal soundcard in the K3S, make certain 
you do *not* have anything plugged into the K3S LINE IN jack.  If you 
do, the LINE IN audio from the internal K3S soundcard will be ignored 
and whatever you have plugged into the LINE IN jack will take precedence.


You can adjust the audio levels by placing the K3S into TX TEST mode and 
no RF will be produced.  Once the audio levels are correct, you can 
adjust the desired power level with the POWER knob.


Once the audio levels are set, adjust the VOX gain for reliable transmit.

73 and HNY,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2015 8:12 AM, g0c...@virginmedia.com wrote:

Merry  new year to all.
I am having trouble  operating  HRD  psk31  to my K3s.
I can set it up to receive  via the K3s usb   no problem. The tx is produced  
by the pc but not keying the K3s.
I have tried  all the settings  in the manual.
I also us the P3  all linked to the pc with the proper  cables.
Any ideas?



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[ab2tc]

Hi again,

Thanks, that worked.

AB2TC - Knut


Ian - Ham wrote
> Knut,
> 
> I just pulled it up on my AT mobile phone, using Chrome.
> 
> Try clearing your browser's cache and your computer's DNS cache and see if
> that helps.
> 
> 73 de,
> 
> Ian, KM4IK
> 





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[Elecraft] [KX3] TuneMatic

[Carl]

A few days ago, I came across this screwdriver controller 
(http://www.tunematic.us). It is advertised to connect to a KX3. It 
looks like it would work good, but for one thing. The baud rate needs to 
be set to 4800. If there is a KPX100 connected, there is no connection 
with the amp,since you can not change the baud rate in the amp.
My goal is to have a one button tune for my Tarheel when mobile, for 
safety reasons. I can use the manual button, but then need to put the 
KX3 in tune, then watch the meter for lowest SWR.

Has anyone found a way to do this? Any ideas?

--
Carl
AB1DD
Resistance is futile.
(don't know about reactance, though)

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 APRS and AX.25

[Rob Ogilvie]

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 1:37 PM, Jim Brown 
wrote:
>
> The KX3 is a superb HF + 6M rig; while the 2M transverter does FM, it's
> real value is for CW, SSB, and digital modes. For FM on VHF/UHF, you're far
> better off continuing with a standard FM rig for those bands. I like the
> Kenwood TM-V71A.
>

Thanks very much for your input.  I think I will continue down that path
and hopefully circle back to the KX3 in the future when I have time to dive
into HF.

73,
Rob
K8AXE
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[Elecraft] K3/0 PSK distortion

[DGB]

I'm using a new K3/0 mini and the remoteRig boxes to remote my K3.

I'm getting reports of my PSK looking like I'm over driving it.

I have my laptop soundcard level set down to 10 as recommended by 
Brandon. When xmtg I set the ALC level to 4 with 5th flickering or even 
just 4. If I go any lower I get no output.


Anybody have any idea what's going on?

thanks 73 Dwight NS9I

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - N1MM & keyboard - Resolved

[Gary Smith]

Again, thanks for the helpful replies. 

For anyone in the future following this thread for an answer.

As was directed, the answer for my situation was in setting the K3 
CONFIG PTT--KEY to OFF-rts. Also, engaging the CW/other option in the 
N1MM and RTS to CW changed from always off, in the N1MM port 
configuration. 

The help was so appreciated and it will help me to have I'm sure, 
even more fun in the contests. I type like a big dumb ape and much 
prefer to send CW with my Begali Sculpture but in a contest where 
accuracy is important for both sides of the Q and the ability to use 
the F-key macros, this will definitely make me a more effective 
contester. And a less fatigued one at that... 

Again, thanks for the replies, all who steered me to the exact same 
resolution.

73,

Gary
KA1J

> Thanks for the replies on & off list.
> 
> I've tried to follow the documentation on the N1MM site and thus far 
> I haven't been able to get any communication from the memories to the 
> K3. I only have one COM port on the computer and though I checked 
> that in the config setup to also be for CW, I'm guessing I may need 
> another COM port as the pictorial shows three ports available with 
> one of them for the radio and another for CW. If that's the case, 
> I'll likely need a different computer as this one is a HP slimline 
> and is very limited in what it can do and like a inexpensive laptop, 
> hardware can not be added to it.
> 
> I don't want this topic to become what some will consider an off 
> topic thread as many here likely don't use N1MM with their K3 so 
> please send your comments direct to me.
> 
> If there is a good link for setting up the K3 with N1MM, I'd like to 
> know about it, I Google search found one for how to do this with the 
> Flex but that's not Elecraft.
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> 
> > When I contest I use N1MM, use the memories on the K3 and send with 
> > the key when needed & I'm busy as a one arm paper hanger doing it 
> > this way. I'd like to just use the keyboard, use N1MM to the fullest 
> > and use the paddles only when needed. 
> > 
> > What's an affordable & simple method of getting the keyboard to work 
> > with N1MM & the K3?
> > 
> > Thanks & 73,
> > 
> > Gary
> > KA1J
> > __
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> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 APRS and AX.25

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,12/29/2015 1:06 PM, Rob Ogilvie wrote:

I'm really close to sticking with a simple VHF/UHF
mobile instead of the KX3 as packet is a majority of what I'm interested in 
right now; then upgrade to a KX3 when I have the time to get into HF - but if 
the KX3 offers true advantages in this space, I may get my forever radio in a 
KX3 now.


The KX3 is a superb HF + 6M rig; while the 2M transverter does FM, it's 
real value is for CW, SSB, and digital modes. For FM on VHF/UHF, you're 
far better off continuing with a standard FM rig for those bands. I like 
the Kenwood TM-V71A.


What some folks do to TX APRS in a car is re-purpose an old talkie.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] P3 signals disappearing

[Gary Smith]

I use the SVGA with my P3, my eyes just don't see well enough to see 
the screen on the P3. Something I have become more aware of lately is 
I'll see a faint signal on the monitor and when I when I jump to it 
with a click using marker A, there is no signal underneath the marker 
any more. I usually operate CW and the P3 is usually set at a 1-3KHz 
span.

For all the world it looks just like a very weak signal, the kind I 
look for the most on the air but since it disappears from under the 
marker when the button is tapped and nothing is heard when looking 
for a signal, it has to be an artefact. If it remained and was not a 
station but some RFI, I'd understand but since it disappears, it's 
got to be an artefact generated in the system.

Not sure if this is what I've read as ghosting but it's sure a good 
definition to describe it. ;)

Ideas?

73,

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] KX3 APRS and AX.25

[Rob Ogilvie]

Howdy!

I'm quite intrigued by what the KX3 can potentially do as an SDR, and am
considering trying to get one.  There are some downsides to the KX3 I've
noted (price and lack of 70cm being two big ones), but the possibilities it
opens up are pretty awesome to imagine.

I've been playing around quite a bit with packet (AX.25 and APRS over 2m
thus far) and am having a hard time figuring out if the KX3 offers
advantages over a traditional transceiver's data port.  They both /appear/
to require a TNC, although I'm not entirely sure if that's actually the
case with the KX3.

Is anybody doing 2m AX.25/APRS over their KX3 who could share some details
about their setup?  I'm really close to sticking with a simple VHF/UHF
mobile instead of the KX3 as packet is a majority of what I'm interested in
right now; then upgrade to a KX3 when I have the time to get into HF - but
if the KX3 offers true advantages in this space, I may get my forever radio
in a KX3 now...

Thoughts?

Rob / K8AXE
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Wes (N7WS)]

Good points all.

Something else to note, even at 14V, running a K3 at 11-12 watts is a disaster.  
Just because you're using "low power" doesn't mean that the amplifier isn't 
distorting. IMD is also frequency sensitive. One frequency measurements tell you 
nothing about IMD performance.  At 30 watts output on 3.8 MHz my K3 IMD was 17dB 
lower than at 14 MHz.


At 24 MHz the IMD at 10W was 29 dB worse than 30W!   In all cases of frequency 
or output power the IMD was worse at 10W output.



 On 12/29/2015 5:00 PM, Bill Mader wrote:

Actually, IMD in the PA increases significantly as battery voltage drops!
For example, during Field Day a few years ago someone kicked off the
generator power to our SSB station which kept operating on the back-up
battery.  Sometime later the CW captain stopped by asking if we had changed
anything.  He could hear "splatter" from our 20m signal on his 20m rig.
This was not the case earlier in the day.

I checked everything and discovered the AC power issue.  I turned the outlet
switch back to On and checked with the 20m CW operator.  His reception had
immediately cleaned up!  He no longer heard anything from 20 SSB the rest of
the (non-contest) event.  BTW, we went on to take 4th place overall with
just six transmitters (2012).

When driving a KPA500, this is much less of an issue since the K3 runs
typically under 30 Watts for 500 Watts from the KPA500.  NC0B has spoken
frequently, in less than glowing terms, about IMD issues in 12 VDC (nominal)
PA's.

I've seen a number of comments recently that some folks don't care if their
radios' TX IMD is high.  That attitude is exemplified in many DX pileups.  I
have raised my power supply's voltage in an effort to keep my TX IMD as low
as possible based on my reading and empirical evidence related above.

73, Bill, K8TE
Albuquerque DX Assn



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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

[Ken K6MR]

Are you using the KAT500 Remote program? Mine are only 15 feet away in a 
closet, but I never have to touch the units. They are connected using an IP to 
Serial converter. Works perfect.

Ken K6MR




From: Va3ied
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 18:17
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

Has there been progress on this? I have the luck to have a garden shed at 
the base of my tower with 12. Volt powerit all works in principle and in
practice...just a bit of a pain to run back and forth when there is a fault
or other issue. Kind of reminds me of watching green acres as a
kid...remember when he had to climb the pole to answer the phone? 





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Remote-KAT500-tp7604849p7612002.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K2 doing weird stuff again!

[Eddy Avila]

Don kindly helped me out a couple of years ago with my K2 (S/N 3500+) with a PA 
HOT error when the K2 had been sitting off in my house, room temp about 67degs. 
Lately now when I turn on K2 from a cold start the fan turns on immediately and 
when I try to transmit into a 50-ohm dummy load I get the PA HOT error and the 
rig won't put out power now. Originally, the tPA was set for about 20c which is 
68f, which is the room temp in my shack.
So, as a hunch I ran tPA through 255 and set it at 5c (41degs f) which, I 
assume you, is not the temp in my house/shackHI HI!! I ran tPA back up to 
20c and the PA HOT problem returned. So, I set the tPA at 16c (60degs F) and my 
K2 is now happy!
Any thoughts what's going on, is my K2 starting to head South, or maybe I 
should consider doing a hard reset? I hate a reset cuz all the filters also get 
reset and even after writing down all the values, it's still a pain in the a**!
I have the KPA100 and the latest firmware from a while back.
As always, thanks for any advice/help offered!
73
Ed



  
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Jim Brown]

Something you're missing, Wes. The 100W amp doesn't kick in until you 
ask for more than about 14W. So at 11-12W, you're seeing the IMD of the 
QRP exciter stage running near it's maximum power.


I'm wondering if it might be practical to modify the control software so 
that the 100W amp kicks in at lower power levels. Are there other 
consequences?  Wayne?


73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,12/29/2015 8:19 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Something else to note, even at 14V, running a K3 at 11-12 watts is a 
disaster. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - N1MM & keyboard

[David Gilbert]

All you need is a serial port (regular or USB adapter) and a cable to 
the K3.  Literally ... that's all you need.  The N1MM website has all 
the documentation on how to set everything up.  I've run entire contests 
without ever touching the paddle, although the paddle is quicker for the 
odd non-routine transmission.


Dave   AB7E



On 12/28/2015 10:43 PM, Gary Smith wrote:

When I contest I use N1MM, use the memories on the K3 and send with
the key when needed & I'm busy as a one arm paper hanger doing it
this way. I'd like to just use the keyboard, use N1MM to the fullest
and use the paddles only when needed.

What's an affordable & simple method of getting the keyboard to work
with N1MM & the K3?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J


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[Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Juliean Galak]

I'm contemplating using a battery rather than a power supply to run a K3s and 
am wondering how well it does on 12V (as opposed to the 13.8V most supplies 
deliver).  Comments appreciated"

Juliean
KD2JPF 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - N1MM & keyboard

[Gary Smith]

Thanks for the replies on & off list.

I've tried to follow the documentation on the N1MM site and thus far 
I haven't been able to get any communication from the memories to the 
K3. I only have one COM port on the computer and though I checked 
that in the config setup to also be for CW, I'm guessing I may need 
another COM port as the pictorial shows three ports available with 
one of them for the radio and another for CW. If that's the case, 
I'll likely need a different computer as this one is a HP slimline 
and is very limited in what it can do and like a inexpensive laptop, 
hardware can not be added to it.

I don't want this topic to become what some will consider an off 
topic thread as many here likely don't use N1MM with their K3 so 
please send your comments direct to me.

If there is a good link for setting up the K3 with N1MM, I'd like to 
know about it, I Google search found one for how to do this with the 
Flex but that's not Elecraft.

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J

> When I contest I use N1MM, use the memories on the K3 and send with 
> the key when needed & I'm busy as a one arm paper hanger doing it 
> this way. I'd like to just use the keyboard, use N1MM to the fullest 
> and use the paddles only when needed. 
> 
> What's an affordable & simple method of getting the keyboard to work 
> with N1MM & the K3?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request: Audio balance control for K3

[Jeff Schmidt]

Mike,
CONFIG: SUB AF: bALANCE will do what you want, minus the individual EQ 
curve.


Jeff, KC9WSJ

On 12/29/2015 6:10 AM, Mike Keller wrote:

Would it be possible in software to add an audio balance control?
As time has gone by my left ear takes a lot more drive to match the right and 
it's probably going to get worse.
In my best of all worlds it would be great to set an Eq curve individually too.

Tnx
Mike Keller
W1BNC


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[Elecraft] Ham radio Deluxe

[g0c...@virginmedia.com]

Merry  new year to all.
I am having trouble  operating  HRD  psk31  to my K3s.
I can set it up to receive  via the K3s usb   no problem. The tx is produced  
by the pc but not keying the K3s.
I have tried  all the settings  in the manual.
I also us the P3  all linked to the pc with the proper  cables. 
Any ideas?
Go cut .  Keith  

Sent from Samsung Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> Headphone efficiency clearly has other dependencies than
> impedance.

Yes, there are other dependencies like the weight and "stiffness"
of the diaphragm, the strength of the magnet, the coil geometry,
etc.  However, there is still a strong correlation of efficiency
with impedance in well built headphones.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 12/29/2015 4:55 AM, Barry N1EU wrote:

Jim, I think it would be great if you would clarify your comment to
Steve.  I've looked at the data sheet and everything Steve said seems
correct to me???

And I'm not sure I'm willing to totally buy (per Joe) that there's
necessarily a proportional relationship between headphone impedance
and efficiency that makes up for the inverse relationship between
output power and load impedance.  I just don't observe this efficiency
rule consistently in my collection of headphones with varying
impedance.  Headphone efficiency clearly has other dependencies than
impedance.

73,
Barry N1EU



On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 6:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:


You clearly don't understand what you're reading on that data sheet, nor the
design of audio output stages. I refer you to my earlier posts, and to those
by W4TV, W2RU, and W3FPR.

Those numbers you quote are NOT the output impedance, they are the minimum
LOAD impedance that the output device is designed to work into. Modern
output stages are essentially constant voltage sources. That's what Bud is
telling you with his discussion about damping factor -- the output Z (source
Z) is typically 50-100 times the load Z.

With headphone amplifiers, a good designer will add some small value of
resistance in series with the output to prevent the output stage from
failing if a short is connected to its output (which could occur when a plug
is being inserted, or with an improperly wired plug). Line level outputs use
a series output resistor to prevent the output stage from seeing the
CAPACITANCE of a long cable, which could, by interaction with the feedback
network, cause the output stage to oscillate.

Executive summary -- simply buy good quality headphones, and don't worry
about impedance.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Barry N1EU]

Jim, I think it would be great if you would clarify your comment to
Steve.  I've looked at the data sheet and everything Steve said seems
correct to me???

And I'm not sure I'm willing to totally buy (per Joe) that there's
necessarily a proportional relationship between headphone impedance
and efficiency that makes up for the inverse relationship between
output power and load impedance.  I just don't observe this efficiency
rule consistently in my collection of headphones with varying
impedance.  Headphone efficiency clearly has other dependencies than
impedance.

73,
Barry N1EU



On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 6:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:

> You clearly don't understand what you're reading on that data sheet, nor the
> design of audio output stages. I refer you to my earlier posts, and to those
> by W4TV, W2RU, and W3FPR.
>
> Those numbers you quote are NOT the output impedance, they are the minimum
> LOAD impedance that the output device is designed to work into. Modern
> output stages are essentially constant voltage sources. That's what Bud is
> telling you with his discussion about damping factor -- the output Z (source
> Z) is typically 50-100 times the load Z.
>
> With headphone amplifiers, a good designer will add some small value of
> resistance in series with the output to prevent the output stage from
> failing if a short is connected to its output (which could occur when a plug
> is being inserted, or with an improperly wired plug). Line level outputs use
> a series output resistor to prevent the output stage from seeing the
> CAPACITANCE of a long cable, which could, by interaction with the feedback
> network, cause the output stage to oscillate.
>
> Executive summary -- simply buy good quality headphones, and don't worry
> about impedance.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - N1MM & keyboard

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Gary,

It sounds like you are not using the CW memories within N1MM. But I assume
you are using a serial connection to the K3 so that N1MM can read your
frequency for logging purposes. If this is true then you probably need to
read up on using the memory functions. With 12 slots available you can
pre-program some of the memory functions to handle the typical
reach-for-the-paddle actions. Such as RRR or ee or 73. You can also press
CTRL K to quickly bring up a free form CW/RTTY window that responds to
anything you type on the keyboard.

You can also program K3 macros into the message slots that access functions
on the K3 such as the M1 through M4 memory keys. I always have one macro set
up to call up the K3 Auto Spot function. And of course you can change
frequency using the mouse wheel which you may already be doing. There is
also incredible functionality with respect to skimmer spots. 

The only additional issue that will need to be addressed is whether you are
satisfied with the response you get between your computer and the K3 when
sending messages. Sending CW through the serial cable can sometimes come up
jumbled. For this and other reasons many people use an external Winkeyer
type device to handle the messages from N1MM over a USB cable and then to
directly key the K3 through the KEY input jack (not the paddle jack).

N1MM is a complicated, feature-rich program. Sometimes it's necessary to
take it slow and learn the features during non-contest periods with the K3
in test mode. There are also tutorial video links available on their
website. 

73,
Mike K2MK


Gary Smith-2 wrote
> When I contest I use N1MM, use the memories on the K3 and send with 
> the key when needed & I'm busy as a one arm paper hanger doing it 
> this way. I'd like to just use the keyboard, use N1MM to the fullest 
> and use the paddles only when needed. 
> 
> What's an affordable & simple method of getting the keyboard to work 
> with N1MM & the K3?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> Gary
> KA1J





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[Elecraft] Feature request: Audio balance control for K3

[Mike Keller]

Would it be possible in software to add an audio balance control?
As time has gone by my left ear takes a lot more drive to match the right and 
it's probably going to get worse.
In my best of all worlds it would be great to set an Eq curve individually too.

Tnx
Mike Keller
W1BNC


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[Elecraft] Searching for a gift of time in the New Year in Orlando Florida!

[David Glasser]

Hi,
I have previously posted, without success, a request for someone in the Orlando 
area (From Melbourne to Tampa) who has a K3 or K3S and who would be willing to 
allow me to spend some time with them discussing the installation, of a soon to 
arrive K3S.
I am happy to pay for coffee or a beer!!
I am happy to travel and as I live just a few miles south of Disney, if you 
would like to see the "start" of my shack, I would be happy to be the taxi 
driver!!
Will this be a "good new year" for me?
Here's hoping to hear from someone soon
David Glasser
glasse...@outlook.com
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