Re: [Elecraft] Audio Mixer in the Ham Shack

[Clay Autery]

Here's an idea for the shared key...

Assuming a key with 2 leads and 4 rigs...

Build a switch box around something like an NKK MRX204 rotary switch
(This one switches 2 common leads simultaneously to 4 pairs of 2
switched leads)  Add a perf board or custom PCB with appropriate chassis
and 3.5mm TS sockets... add a Key IN 2-conductor cable, and an 8
conductor to 4 x 2 conductor breakout cable on the other side to connect
to the 4 rigs, and you have a neat, easily sharable key.  Here's the
data sheet...  http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/295/MRpowerLevel-22799.pdf

A million different switch types you could use...  Maybe even one with
spade connectors as switch terminals, where ALL the box internals would
be hookup wires from the switch to the TS sockets.  The breakout cable
could be locally made bu you with some 2 conductor cable and the right
heat shrink.

You could reduce the number of OUT sockets to 1 each, if you used
something like a MIL Type 8-conductor bulkhead shell and matching plug
on one end, and then broke out to 4 each Tip/Sleeve plugs or whatever
you need to plug into the 4 rigs on the other end


Clean, clean, clean...

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 5:43 PM, Ken Talbott wrote:
> I hate swapping cables!  To avoid it, I use a Shure Model SCM800 8/9 input 
> mixer ($50 to $150 on that auction site) and a Dave Clark headset.  I have 
> audio on demand from 4 hf rigs, a vhf/uhf rig, and XM radio. Not a word of 
> complaint from the XYL when I listen to 2 or more sources at once!  Antennas 
> managed by two MFJ 6-in/6-out switches.  Now I just need to do something 
> about the key!  I am considering using an old RS-232 mechanical switch to 
> solve that problem.  I don't do microphones.  BTW, everything is mounted in 
> standard 6 foot relay rack, on wheels for easy access to rear. 
> Ken - ke4rg
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[Clay Autery]

I apologize.  I must have missed that part...  

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 4:31 PM, Dave Cole wrote:
> Hi,
> Yes, the ";" is a slight delay...  However I believe this issue goes
> beyond a simple delay...  
>
> As I mentioned in my last post, I have a set of macros, where the last
> macro crashes the first macro in the string...  In my mind, that pretty
> well eliminates all timing issues...

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Clay Autery]

Well, as it turns out, MOST of the engineering improvements in products
come from the field by way of OCD folks like us.
You should feel good that you contributed to the process.

I am sure someone in the loop is monitoring this thread and making notes
for possible documentation/design changes.

As it turns out, YOUR buzzing had/has multiple components sourced from
multiple causes.

Adding chassis stiffener vibration isolation to the list... although
that would be an issue requiring just the right combination of stiffener
and top cover bowing in the correct directions to create and
interstitial interface such that certain frequencies setup a
sympathetic/harmonic vibration.

Reminds me of the days I used Sorbothane to mount HDDs, fans, et al. in
tower chassis to reduce vibrations and other noise.  No one was doing it
then... lots of folks do it now.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 3:49 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits of tape
> where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and now have zero
> buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up nearly all the way.
>
>
> I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the ferrite
> beads on both boards and install x5 30mm strips of black tape in specific
> places.
> Easy fix. 
> I've heard it said that nobody remembers what you said, only how you made
> them feel. Right now I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about my radio manf.
>
> Thanks to all who contacted me off list with suggestions and shared
> frustration for this issue. 
> 73 ..
>
> Jerry Moore
> CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
> http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
> An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
> Patriotic.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 3:09 PM
> To: Jerry Moore; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
> Conclusion, and Request.
>
> No, I have not done this mod.  But I have just added it to the list, because
> I AM using the internal speaker.  External speakers are on the list, but
> some way down, so I will be using the internal speaker (or actually phones)
> for some time.
>
> In all fairness, I would think this issue is only rarely an "issue" for the
> VAST majority of ops...  Between external speakers, not having the PA to
> begin with, or using headset/phones, most folks probably don't use the
> internal speaker at audio levels sufficient to reproduce the issue.
>
> I would prefer to do the fix myself than to have the additional labor
> involved in fixing the beads/conductors down (and the accompanying increase
> in price/avail of PA modules).
>
> I examined my K3s closely as I assembled it... I consider it a supremely
> well-engineered piece of equipment and worth every penny I paid.  :-)
>
> Have a super day!
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KG5LKV
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 2/17/2016 1:57 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
>> Have you done this ? 
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] How do I switch to digest?

[Ken K6MR]

At the bottom of the home page, enter your subscribed email address and select 
“Unsubscribe or edit options”. Then enter your password on the next page that 
comes up.

On the configuration page, the second selection in the group of grey areas is 
“Set Digest Mode”.  Click “On”

At the bottom of the page, click “Submit My Changes”

Ken K6MR

From: frank wiebusch via Elecraft
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 21:11
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] How do I switch to digest?

I'm dense,  I went to the page and didn't see where to convert to digest 
instead of individual emails.

Frank KG6N
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[Elecraft] How do I switch to digest?

[frank wiebusch via Elecraft]

I'm dense,  I went to the page and didn't see where to convert to digest 
instead of individual emails.

Frank KG6N
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

[Ken Talbott]

You might consider investing in an inexpensive automotive trim removal tool.
The one I use from Advance Auto is non-marring and has multiple edges for
sliding into the tiniest apertures - you know the crack in which you tried
to use that screwdriver and messed up the powder coat finish?
Ken - ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 11:37 PM
To: 'Michael Blake' ; 'Elecraft Reflector'

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

They are simple "press on" knobs. I rest my knuckles against the front panel
while pulling on the knob and they pop right off. 

73 Ron AC7aC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Blake
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:52 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?

Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

They are simple "press on" knobs. I rest my knuckles against the front panel
while pulling on the knob and they pop right off. 

73 Ron AC7aC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Blake
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:52 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?

Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com



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Re: [Elecraft] List <>

[Rick Prather]

Well said Al,

It seems to me that the list gets especially weird when the bands are bad!

At any rate, a lot of the problems would be solved if people would follow
your advice to wait overnight and also, as part of that process, re-read
the OP and be sure you understand the question.

Rick
K6LE


On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 4:15 PM, Al Lorona  wrote:

> There's a lot of tension on the list right now. Can we all just step back
> for a second?
>
>
> This list, at times, can be downright infuriating to those of us who ask a
> question in good faith, only to have the thread go off the rails in a
> matter of minutes. I've been victimized countless times. When it happens I
> say to myself, "Well, there goes any hope of getting an answer to my
> question."
>
> This list is no different than any list -- you have your Curmudgeons, your
> Know-it-Alls, the Complainers, the Alligators, etc., etc.-- and this tends
> to make people gun-shy or at least very tentative about posting. I can't
> blame them.
>
> Maybe we need to view each post primarily as a *request for help with a
> specific problem*, and not really  as an invitation to expound, discuss,
> and bloviate. Simply this: Let's make sure the Original Poster always gets
> our best in the most direct and expedient manner.
>
> There are a handful of guys who regularly stick to this rule and my hat's
> off to them for the dozens of times they've patiently come through for me.
> I stick around here mainly to pay back by helping others when I can.
>
> Replying off-list is fine. Certainly we're not losing any learning
> opportunities if we choose to do this for the common questions ("What's the
> best pair of gym shoes to wear while using my K3?") and I've had some of my
> best technical exchanges off-list, which I'm sure is true of a lot of us.
>
> If you don't get a satisfactory answer here probably the best thing is to
> then go contact Elecraft support privately. Ultimately, this list doesn't
> replace Support.
>
>
> One more thing, and this is directed to the Original Posters out there:
> There is nothing in the Elecraft list guidelines that says you *must* post
> the resolution of a problem to the list, but common courtesy probably
> dictates that you do so. A single wrap-up message by the original poster
> would seem sufficient: "My problem was caused by two mourning doves that
> nested in my balun enclosure."
>
> I was left hanging in the past month by two baffling but fascinating
> problems that I fear we'll never understand... Whatever happened to that K3
> that was hearing broadcast stations by E.S.P.? Was that Wayne's new psychic
> firmware??
>
> Self-moderation is definitely part of the solution. Here are two
> guidelines that if followed diligently could benefit us all:
>
>
> 1. If your response contains the sentiments, "Me too," or, "Why do you
> want to do that?" it probably isn't worth sending. Or maybe should be sent
> off-list.
>
> 2. Delay all responses overnight. If the next morning your response still
> seems needed, go ahead and send it.
>
> Finally I would like to add that, if there's a thread not to your liking,
> kindly spend the few seconds deleting it rather than adding yet another
> post to an already long thread complaining that the thread is getting too
> long or too off-topic. It's kinda like yelling, "Quiet!" in a noisy
> theater-- it doesn't accomplish anything, and it just makes the problem
> worse.
>
> This is all personal opinion and I welcome Elecraft telling me I'm full of
> beans as they see fit. I'll even post a resolution message reporting how
> many people told me, off-list, to go take a flying leap of a galloping
> goose.
>
>
> Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

[Michael Blake]

Don and Craig, thanks for the input. I have a new front panel on the way to 
correct a defect but did not want to bugger up either the knobs or old panel.  
I just remembered that they fit very tightly when I built the KX3.

Thanks again, problem defined and solved. 

Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 17:52, Michael Blake  wrote:
> 
> Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front 
> panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?
> 
> Michael Blake
> k9...@mac.com
> 
> 
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines 2016

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Elecraft eMail LIST GUIDELINES 2016

For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly 
failing memories) here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to 
this list. Please save this for future reference.


The most important thing to remember is that this is a hobby - Let's have fun!

The PRIMARY purposes of this list are to provide a polite and enjoyable forum 
for discussing Elecraft products, share mods, new ideas, feedback to Elecraft, 
share experiences using our products, troubleshooting ideas etc.


The Elecraft email list server (reflector) is provided to further the discussion 
of Elecraft products and related items. It serves as a forum for the discussion 
of both technical and operating topics including product features, construction 
and debug problems, sharing your enthusiasm and impressions from using our 
products and more general ham radio related topics of interest to our customers.


(Please -strongly- resist the urge to reply to an OT topic once it has gone to 5 
posts. Once it hits ten posts do not reply at all (go off list if you feel the 
urge to continue.) Also, please do not try to always get the 'last word'..



1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is done to 
stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent to 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it shows as 
subscribers will be rejected.


This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like w1...@arrl.net. If you use an 
alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too. 
Subscribing with w...@arrl.net from your physical address of j...@aol.com will 
allow you to receive postings, but your postings to
the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not match 
your subscribe address..


Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to 
change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list preferences 
(digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page and log in with 
your subscribed email address and the password that was sent to you by email 
when you subscribed (and sent to you each month).



2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large file for 
use on the list, first post it to your personal web page and then post a link to 
its address in an email to the list. The list strips all attachments to prevent 
viruses from propagating and to keep the archives at a reasonable size.



3. Top posting is the official standard for this list, and its especially
important for those of us who also read our email on smartphones, iPads etc. 
Scrolling though a long thread before getting to the reply text is difficult on 
these devices and costs everyone a lot of time.


Reading the response first, at the top, is a huge time saver, especially when 
you have to read hundreds of emails daily as we do here. We really appreciate 
your adherence to this.


Please also delete -all- footers and as much of the prior email text as possible 
when replying to cut down on overall email size. Please keep the amount of 
copied text from previous posts to an -ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies.



4. EMAIL OVERLOAD:
If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list, You can 
view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web format at: 
http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated hourly and list 
postings by subject. (the Nabble archive looks very useful.) Just click on the 
ones you are interested in to read.


You can also set your Elecraft list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery, 
which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest.


You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a 
single compilation each day.


To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Scroll to the bottom of the 
page to log into your preferences page and set your mail options to 'no mail'.



4a. Please make an effort to keep list volume under control by resisting the 
urge to post a comment on every long discussion thread (CW, Soldering etc.) With 
thousands of list subscribers volume can quickly get out of control if everyone 
feels the need to comment. While we do not overly restrict the subject matter on 
this list, please remember that its primary focus is on Elecraft products, and 
their use. Many people rely on it for pointers on building, using and 
troubleshooting their rigs. Other ham Radio topics are OK, but please keep the 
posts on non-Elecraft topics under control.


4b. *** When emailing about a specific rig or option, please add the rig/option 
name(s) to the first part of your email subject line. (K1, K2, K3, KX1 etc.) 
This will be a huge help for those experiencing email overload and will allow 
automatic filtering based on subject line.

[Elecraft] List <>

[Al Lorona]

There's a lot of tension on the list right now. Can we all just step back for a 
second?


This list, at times, can be downright infuriating to those of us who ask a 
question in good faith, only to have the thread go off the rails in a matter of 
minutes. I've been victimized countless times. When it happens I say to myself, 
"Well, there goes any hope of getting an answer to my question."

This list is no different than any list -- you have your Curmudgeons, your 
Know-it-Alls, the Complainers, the Alligators, etc., etc.-- and this tends to 
make people gun-shy or at least very tentative about posting. I can't blame 
them.

Maybe we need to view each post primarily as a *request for help with a 
specific problem*, and not really  as an invitation to expound, discuss, and 
bloviate. Simply this: Let's make sure the Original Poster always gets our best 
in the most direct and expedient manner.

There are a handful of guys who regularly stick to this rule and my hat's off 
to them for the dozens of times they've patiently come through for me. I stick 
around here mainly to pay back by helping others when I can.

Replying off-list is fine. Certainly we're not losing any learning 
opportunities if we choose to do this for the common questions ("What's the 
best pair of gym shoes to wear while using my K3?") and I've had some of my 
best technical exchanges off-list, which I'm sure is true of a lot of us.

If you don't get a satisfactory answer here probably the best thing is to then 
go contact Elecraft support privately. Ultimately, this list doesn't replace 
Support.


One more thing, and this is directed to the Original Posters out there: There 
is nothing in the Elecraft list guidelines that says you *must* post the 
resolution of a problem to the list, but common courtesy probably dictates that 
you do so. A single wrap-up message by the original poster would seem 
sufficient: "My problem was caused by two mourning doves that nested in my 
balun enclosure."

I was left hanging in the past month by two baffling but fascinating problems 
that I fear we'll never understand... Whatever happened to that K3 that was 
hearing broadcast stations by E.S.P.? Was that Wayne's new psychic firmware??

Self-moderation is definitely part of the solution. Here are two guidelines 
that if followed diligently could benefit us all:
 

1. If your response contains the sentiments, "Me too," or, "Why do you want to 
do that?" it probably isn't worth sending. Or maybe should be sent off-list.

2. Delay all responses overnight. If the next morning your response still seems 
needed, go ahead and send it.
 
Finally I would like to add that, if there's a thread not to your liking, 
kindly spend the few seconds deleting it rather than adding yet another post to 
an already long thread complaining that the thread is getting too long or too 
off-topic. It's kinda like yelling, "Quiet!" in a noisy theater-- it doesn't 
accomplish anything, and it just makes the problem worse.
 
This is all personal opinion and I welcome Elecraft telling me I'm full of 
beans as they see fit. I'll even post a resolution message reporting how many 
people told me, off-list, to go take a flying leap of a galloping goose.
 

Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Gary Smith]

No worries Jim, I found out what I needed to know before proceeding, 
thanks for the reply.

Cheers!

73,

Gary, KA1J
> My apologies, Gary -- I misinterpreted your query72 de Jim R. K9JWV
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614267.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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> Message delivered to g...@ka1j.com
> 



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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Mixer in the Ham Shack

[Ken Talbott]

I hate swapping cables!  To avoid it, I use a Shure Model SCM800 8/9 input 
mixer ($50 to $150 on that auction site) and a Dave Clark headset.  I have 
audio on demand from 4 hf rigs, a vhf/uhf rig, and XM radio. Not a word of 
complaint from the XYL when I listen to 2 or more sources at once!  Antennas 
managed by two MFJ 6-in/6-out switches.  Now I just need to do something about 
the key!  I am considering using an old RS-232 mechanical switch to solve that 
problem.  I don't do microphones.  BTW, everything is mounted in standard 6 
foot relay rack, on wheels for easy access to rear. 
Ken - ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Black
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 6:28 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Audio Mixer in the Ham Shack

Yep, I ve looked and there is a *lot* of information on this reflector about 
the subject.

I have worked with David Anderson, GM4JJJ, on setting up my KX3 trying to 
minimize the connecting and disconnecting of cables to my Focusrite 2i2 sound 
card. The more I thought about the advice he gave me, the more curious I 
became. I got to the point of could I connect my K3 too? Problem is that I know 
very little about audio mixers so please go easy on me. I have been reading and 
looking online for several days now.

I have read through Jim Brown s, K9YC, documentation on his page and I can 
handle what needs to be done there.

Here s the potential scenario:

I have a K3 and a KX3. I have one sound card to share between the two of them. 
Yes, I do realize that just adding another sound card may be the simplest thing 
to do at this point. I have thought of that and that solution is not off the 
table. I have the Focusrite 2i2 sound card. This is a fairly new purchase and 
so far I am pleased with its performance. I have a mic for each radio - the MH2 
for the K3 and the MH3 for the KX3. I could see where going to just one 
studio-type mic would be beneficial. With the TX and RX EQs in both radios, I 
really do not need the parametric EQ of a mixer.

I also use an FM-only VHF radio for local repeater contacts but consider it out 
of scope.

What I have been looking at is an 8-channel audio mixer (either the Mackie 
ProFX8v2 or the Alesis Multimix 8 USB). My thoughts are:

Install a single mic into mic input one on the mixer. This mic would serve both 
the K3 and the KX3.
Have the LINE OUT from the K3 into Inputs 3 and 4 Have the SPKR OUT from the K3 
into Inputs 5 and 6 Have the SPKR OUT from the KX3 into Inputs 7 and 8 Have the 
Focusrite 2i2 LINE IN L and R to Main Out L and R on the mixer Have the 
Focusrite LINE OUT L to Input 2 on the mixer.

Now I run into trouble. The Mackie has ST (studio?) return. I could run the L 
to LINE IN on the K3 and R to MIC IN on the K3 but I cannot figure out how to 
get MIC IN wired to the KX3. The Alesis adds an AUX SEND. Could I use that to 
feed the MIC IN of the KX3?

I realize this borders on off-topic for this group so if you d rather respond 
directly, I understand and I apologize for using the bandwidth for what may 
seem like an off-topic subject to some.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 with options

[cx7tt]

K3/100 Serial #250 with included options:
Factory Assembled
KAT3 internal tuner
KXV3A Transverter/IO board
KPA100
2.7 kHz filter
500 hZ cw filter.
Gold pins on KPA and KREF boards. Upgrades include,DSP, K312MDKT,KSYN3
stiffeners, REMIOUPGD, 4 new pushbutton encoders, K3AudProtMDKT Audio
protection board.
Mods and upgrades completed by Elecraft techs. Factory calibrated and
aligned in Jan 2016.
Factory copies of mods/upgrades avail upon request.
Reason for selling-bought K3S. Pix of top and back on request.
Will be shipped from W3FPR QTH to CONUS. $1935 plus 1/2 shipping.Checks OK.
Tom K6CT 305-767-1927
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Jim Rodenkirch]

My apologies, Gary -- I misinterpreted your query72 de Jim R. K9JWV



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614267.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Nr4c]

I already suggested the manual. Ye, download it and read it. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Feb 17, 2016, at 5:52 PM, Gary Smith  wrote:
> 
> Fellows, it was just a simple question I asked here so as to not 
> bother the techs at Elecraft with what may be an arcane question.
> 
> I have the ATU kit and the amp kit in my hands, I'm not sending them 
> back. Why I want an ATU has nothing to do with my question.
> 
> FWIW, I do have resonant antennas; all of them from 160 through 10 
> are resonant. I sometimes take the radio out where I use a random 
> wire. It's difficult to make a random wire resonant when I'm on a 
> trip.
> 
> When you buy an assembled K3S, you do not get an assembly manual with 
> it. I guess I could download the Pdf but do I want to do things in 
> the same order as if I were assembling a K3s kit or when adding two 
> separate but related modules to an assembled K3? I don't know.
> 
> All I asked was; in an already assembled K3s/10, which of the two 
> should I install first. A couple of replies have said I should 
> install the ATU first. That's what I'll do.
> 
> Thanks to all that replied.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> 
>> Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 
>> 100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp 
>> first. 
>> 
>> Yes?
>> 
>> Thanks & 73,
>> 
>> Gary
>> KA1J
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

Jim! How does your answer relates to the " Original Poster's " Question???!
73 Milverton / W9MMS



  From: James Bennett 
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector  
 Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 4:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg
   
"Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas.  They just work the best.”

Well, not everyone has the luxury of enough real estate for a bunch of resonant 
antennas. When one wants to be able to operate multiple HF bands, a multi-band 
antenna (like a doublet), with tuner, works quite well. I, for one, would love 
to have several towers with resonant yagis, quads, etc. But living on a 
standard city lot with CCR/HOA restrictions pretty much sets a limit on what 
sort of antenna(s) can be erected. I use an 88 foot long doublet (skinny wire, 
stealthily hung in the trees) fed with home brew 600 ohm ladder line. It works 
great and I can operate on 60 - 6 meters with it. Without a tuner, that would 
not be possible.

JIm / W6JHB
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[Elecraft] Audio Mixer in the Ham Shack

[Joel Black]

Yep, I’ve looked and there is a *lot* of information on this reflector about 
the subject.

I have worked with David Anderson, GM4JJJ, on setting up my KX3 trying to 
minimize the connecting and disconnecting of cables to my Focusrite 2i2 sound 
card. The more I thought about the advice he gave me, the more curious I 
became. I got to the point of could I connect my K3 too? Problem is that I know 
very little about audio mixers so please go easy on me. I have been reading and 
looking online for several days now.

I have read through Jim Brown’s, K9YC, documentation on his page and I can 
handle what needs to be done there.

Here’s the potential scenario:

I have a K3 and a KX3. I have one sound card to share between the two of them. 
Yes, I do realize that just adding another sound card may be the simplest thing 
to do at this point. I have thought of that and that solution is not off the 
table. I have the Focusrite 2i2 sound card. This is a fairly new purchase and 
so far I am pleased with its performance. I have a mic for each radio - the MH2 
for the K3 and the MH3 for the KX3. I could see where going to just one 
studio-type mic would be beneficial. With the TX and RX EQs in both radios, I 
really do not need the parametric EQ of a mixer.

I also use an FM-only VHF radio for local repeater contacts but consider it out 
of scope.

What I have been looking at is an 8-channel audio mixer (either the Mackie 
ProFX8v2 or the Alesis Multimix 8 USB). My thoughts are:

Install a single mic into mic input one on the mixer. This mic would serve both 
the K3 and the KX3.
Have the LINE OUT from the K3 into Inputs 3 and 4
Have the SPKR OUT from the K3 into Inputs 5 and 6
Have the SPKR OUT from the KX3 into Inputs 7 and 8
Have the Focusrite 2i2 LINE IN L and R to Main Out L and R on the mixer
Have the Focusrite LINE OUT L to Input 2 on the mixer.

Now I run into trouble. The Mackie has ST (studio?) return. I could run the L 
to LINE IN on the K3 and R to MIC IN on the K3 but I cannot figure out how to 
get MIC IN wired to the KX3. The Alesis adds an AUX SEND. Could I use that to 
feed the MIC IN of the KX3?

I realize this borders on off-topic for this group so if you’d rather respond 
directly, I understand and I apologize for using the bandwidth for what may 
seem like an off-topic subject to some.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Jerry Moore]

I'm sorry that I'm getting contacted off list by others who've brought this
up and the fact it's easily findable by google.
Just the fact that elecraft won't officially acknowledge the issue OR that
you've not personally seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
Do a little research then come back and tell me nobody else has the issue.

I'm just venting a bit but my plans to buy the sub RX are on hold
indeterminately. I've been in support for a very long time and know the
difference between operator error/ID10T and an issue. What puts me off the
most is posts like yours that assumes because you haven't heard or seen the
issue then it must not exist over the entire 11k user base. The reality is
that you don't have the knowledge to support that AND most ops apparently
use a headset/external speaker.

I'd think the manufacturer of a $3500 radio (what I bought) would have a bit
more pride to fix issues rather than ignore/discount/punish customers.

Anyway, I'm putting myself in time out because the general consensus seems
to be that I'm a complete idiot with a speaker buzzing sound that none of
the other 11k users can hear because they don't use the speaker even after
I've taken the time to logically and methodically spell out steps to
reproduce the issue and my findings.

I'm not answering email on this for a few days until my blood pressure comes
down.

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of nr4c
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 5:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

I'm sorry you lost your "Warm, Fuzzy" feeling for Elecraft.  But, in all due
respect, this is the first time I've heard this issue come up.  
So, if it is not an issue for the other ~11,000 owners, how is it that they
should have a "ready fix" for the unusual example?

Loose screws, speaker fastening not being solid, speaker shield, missing
foam pad under speaker over KXRX3: all of these have been addressed, but I
don't remember the center stiffener being the culprit before.  You have now
added another item in the list, but the entire list is the result of people
like yourself, tirelessly tracking done the source of some anomaly and
reporting it to the support staff.  I feel certain that if this was seen as
a potential problem, it would have been addressed long before now.  There
are a lot of K3 and K3S radios out in the world and "Stuff happens".

I hope in the end, that you will like your radio as much as I like my two.

...bill nr4c



On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:49:35 -0500, Jerry Moore wrote:
> I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits 
> of tape where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and 
> now have zero buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up 
> nearly all the way.
>
>
> I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the 
> ferrite beads on both boards and install x5 30mm strips of black tape 
> in specific places.
> Easy fix.
> I've heard it said that nobody remembers what you said, only how you 
> made them feel. Right now I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about my 
> radio manf.
>
> Thanks to all who contacted me off list with suggestions and shared 
> frustration for this issue.
> 73 ..
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: About RTV

[HankP]

Your friendly local ACE hardware carries Permatex ULTRA BLACK PX 82180 RTV 
Silicone Gasket Maker - it is a non corrosive alcohol based cure.Not acetic 
acid. 

DXE also sells the same stuff in same package. 

73 

Hank K7HP 

- Original Message -
Trivia ... RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. It "dries" (cures) 
by absorbing moisture. 
To speed the "drying" in a dry environment, cover with a wet paper towel, 
cloth, etc. 

If it smells like acetic acid, it's corrosive. 

If it smells like BenGay (SP?) back rub it's not. Dow Corning 3140 is non 
corrosive. 

NAPA blue gasket compound is a very strong RTV, but is corrosive. The four 
large solar panels on our RV's 
roof are held on place with (only) RTV. 

73 

K0PP 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Don Wilhelm]

Gary,

It does not really make that much difference - there are no 
inter-dependencies.  The assembly manual tells builders to build up the 
K3S with the LPA first, then do the 5 watt calibration - that has 
already been done for you in your K3S/10 Factory assembly. After that, 
install the KAT3 (if you have it), and then install the KPA3, and then 
do the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration.  That order is not really important 
because there is no direct relationship between the KAT3 and the KPA3.
You might want to check the K3S assembly manual and turn to the parts 
after the 5 watt TX Gain calibration has been done and proceed from 
there.  I say that only so you have a sensible guide to completing your 
assembly with the KPA3 and KAT3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2016 4:12 PM, Gary Smith wrote:

Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the
100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp
first.

Yes?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

[Don Wilhelm]

Michael,

Yes, the procedure is just to pull them up.  It may take a bit of force, 
but it works fine.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2016 5:52 PM, Michael Blake wrote:

Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front 
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

While that tape works, there is a downside to it.  The K3/K3S uses the 
enclosure to assure the best shielding.  When you add that tape, you are 
reducing the points of contact between the covers of the K3 and the 
internal shields.
The impact of the tape may be small in your particular case, but may not 
in other cases.  It is dependent on just how much RF is floating around 
in your shack when you transmit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2016 4:49 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:

I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits of tape
where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and now have zero
buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up nearly all the way.


I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the ferrite
beads on both boards and install x5 30mm strips of black tape in specific
places.
Easy fix.
I've heard it said that nobody remembers what you said, only how you made
them feel. Right now I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about my radio manf.

Thanks to all who contacted me off list with suggestions and shared
frustration for this issue.
73 ..




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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Gary Smith]

Fellows, it was just a simple question I asked here so as to not 
bother the techs at Elecraft with what may be an arcane question.

I have the ATU kit and the amp kit in my hands, I'm not sending them 
back. Why I want an ATU has nothing to do with my question.

FWIW, I do have resonant antennas; all of them from 160 through 10 
are resonant. I sometimes take the radio out where I use a random 
wire. It's difficult to make a random wire resonant when I'm on a 
trip.

When you buy an assembled K3S, you do not get an assembly manual with 
it. I guess I could download the Pdf but do I want to do things in 
the same order as if I were assembling a K3s kit or when adding two 
separate but related modules to an assembled K3? I don't know.

All I asked was; in an already assembled K3s/10, which of the two 
should I install first. A couple of replies have said I should 
install the ATU first. That's what I'll do.

Thanks to all that replied.

73,

Gary
KA1J

> Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 
> 100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp 
> first. 
> 
> Yes?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
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> 



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[Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal

[Michael Blake]

Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front 
panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel?

Michael Blake
k9...@mac.com



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[Elecraft] OT: About RTV

[Rose]

Trivia ... RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing.  It "dries" (cures)
by absorbing moisture.
To speed the "drying" in a dry environment, cover with a wet paper towel,
cloth, etc.

If it smells like acetic acid, it's corrosive.

If it smells like BenGay (SP?) back rub it's not.  Dow Corning 3140 is non
corrosive.

NAPA blue gasket compound is a very strong RTV, but is corrosive.  The four
large solar panels on our RV's
roof are held on place with (only) RTV.

73

K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[James Bennett]

"Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas.  They just work the best.”

Well, not everyone has the luxury of enough real estate for a bunch of resonant 
antennas. When one wants to be able to operate multiple HF bands, a multi-band 
antenna (like a doublet), with tuner, works quite well. I, for one, would love 
to have several towers with resonant yagis, quads, etc. But living on a 
standard city lot with CCR/HOA restrictions pretty much sets a limit on what 
sort of antenna(s) can be erected. I use an 88 foot long doublet (skinny wire, 
stealthily hung in the trees) fed with home brew 600 ohm ladder line. It works 
great and I can operate on 60 - 6 meters with it. Without a tuner, that would 
not be possible.

JIm / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[Dave Cole]

Hi,
Yes, the ";" is a slight delay...  However I believe this issue goes
beyond a simple delay...  

As I mentioned in my last post, I have a set of macros, where the last
macro crashes the first macro in the string...  In my mind, that pretty
well eliminates all timing issues...
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



On Wed, 2016-02-17 at 15:22 -0600, Clay Autery wrote:
> I haven't looked into the command language for the P3 in depth yet...
> 
> Is there a command for a "time delay".  It would appear that you need
> to
> insert a time delay in between each individual command to allow the
> unit
> time to respond to each step.
> 
> Just a SWAG...  (If the command doesn't exist, it looks like a prime
> candidate for the next Firmware iteration)
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KG5LKV
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 2/17/2016 2:46 PM, Dave Cole wrote:
> > Hello Tim and Gary,
> > 
> > I have done extensive testing in trying to get a macro to perform
> > this
> > exact behavior...  
> > 
> > I do not believe "currently" there is a way to make this happen via
> > macro commands.  
> > 
> > If you perform the needed steps by hand, with lots of space between
> > commands, it works, if you then place the exact same commands in a
> > macro it fails.
> > 
> > I tested by placing each command below in its own macro key using
> > the
> > P3 Macro tester software included with the P3 utility.  Here is an
> > example:
> > 
> > I have a DX station at 14.010, and I want to move 14.010 to the
> > left
> > edge of the P3, showing the upper 5 KHz ra
> > 
> > 
> > Macro 1:
> > #SPN000100; 
> > Sets span to plus and minus 10 KHz.
> > 
> > Macro 2:
> > UP7;
> > Moves K3 up 5 KHz.
> > 
> > Macro 3:
> > #FXT1;  
> > Places the P3 in sticky mode, (Fixed Tune), locking the transmit
> > frequency to the center of the P3 screen.
> > 
> > Macro 4:
> > DN7;
> > Moves the K3 down 5, dragging the transmit freq down with it, and
> > putting the transmit freq on the left edge of the P3, exposing the
> > upper 10 KHz of the signals on the P3.
> > 
> > If I then fire them one at a time, everything works as expected,
> > the
> > transmit frequency is on the lower left edge for an up split.
> > 
> > If I place them in a single macro, it fails, every time...
> > 
> > 
> > 73's, and thanks,
> > Dave
> > 
> > For software/hardware reviews see:
> > http://www.nk7z.net
> > 
> > For MixW support see:
> > https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> > 
> > For SSTV help see:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
> > 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

Not even 10 post yet, and the subject has already morphed into something 
else.The OP asked which of the two should he install first.How did this become 
X length of coax, or having a Resonant antenna?OR! Being Lazy?
73 Milverton / W9MMS. 
 


  From: Michael Walker 
 To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 4:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg
   
As a wise ham told me.  What do you need a tuner for?

Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas.  They just work the best.

Mike va3mw


On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 4:57 PM, Gerald Manthey  wrote:

> Why is 10' to 15' of coax  what you would want if using a tuner in the
> shack? I know about loses in really long runs, but why 10 to 15 feet?
> Thanks asking to learn not criticizing.
> Gerald
>
> > On Feb 17, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jim Rodenkirch 
> wrote:
> >
> > Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.
> >
> > If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll
> need
> > some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to
> coax:
> >
> >  - if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
> > efficient spot) then save your
> >    money and purchase an auto tuner, e.g., an LDG Z11 ProII, and place
> it
> > at the point where the open
> >    wire line transitions to coaxial feed.
> >  - if you plan on doing that inside the shack and can keep the coaxial
> run
> > short, the internal auto tuner
> >    would work, albeit you could employ an LDG Z11 ProII there as well.
> >
> > If you plan on feeding any multi band antenna with coax of a length
> longer
> > than 10' to 15' an auto tuner inside the shack isn't worth much -- place
> an
> > LDG Z11 ProII style auto tuner at the base of the antenna, 'tween the
> > coaxial fee line and the antenna feed point and call it a day.
> >
> > If you plan on taking the K3S on portable tripsits auto tuner wud be
> 'da
> > way to go, as long as you keep coaxial runs 'tween the K3S and the
> antenna
> > feed point short"short" means < 10' to 15' or so.
> >
> > 72 de Jim R. K9JWV
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614247.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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> > Message delivered to kc6...@gmail.com
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[Elecraft] KX3 used market

[Joe Moffatt]

I have a question for a friend who is looking for a KX3 used.   Are older 
serial numbers like the 2000s vs 7000s different hardware?

In other words, what on the used market should he look for, or is there much 
difference.  I know the K3 series are different, but I don't know about the 
KX3s.

I have a very recent KX3, and he badly wants one now.
73 to all

Joe
AB5OR
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

They're independent. Since the KAT3 tuner is just a plug-in, I'd suggest
installing it and the KPA3 shield first (do everything in the KPA3
instructions down to "Installing the KPAIO3A Interface Module"), since the
both require more mechanical disassembly. Put everything back except for the
K3 top cover and check out the KAT3 at 10 watts (don't forget to enable the
KAT3 as described on the last page of the installation instructions!). 

Then it's a matter of replacing the blank panel on the K3 with the fans and
then plugging in the KIO3A and KPA3 100 watt amp modules and testing and
enabling them. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Smith
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 1:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 100W
amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp first. 

Yes?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[nr4c]

I'm sorry you lost your "Warm, Fuzzy" feeling for Elecraft.  But, in 
all due respect, this is the first time I've heard this issue come up.  
So, if it is not an issue for the other ~11,000 owners, how is it that 
they should have a "ready fix" for the unusual example?


Loose screws, speaker fastening not being solid, speaker shield, 
missing foam pad under speaker over KXRX3: all of these have been 
addressed, but I don't remember the center stiffener being the culprit 
before.  You have now added another item in the list, but the entire 
list is the result of people like yourself, tirelessly tracking done the 
source of some anomaly and reporting it to the support staff.  I feel 
certain that if this was seen as a potential problem, it would have been 
addressed long before now.  There are a lot of K3 and K3S radios out in 
the world and "Stuff happens".


I hope in the end, that you will like your radio as much as I like my 
two.


...bill nr4c



On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:49:35 -0500, Jerry Moore wrote:
I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits 
of tape
where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and now have 
zero
buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up nearly all 
the way.



I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the 
ferrite
beads on both boards and install x5 30mm strips of black tape in 
specific

places.
Easy fix.
I've heard it said that nobody remembers what you said, only how you 
made
them feel. Right now I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about my 
radio manf.


Thanks to all who contacted me off list with suggestions and shared
frustration for this issue.
73 ..



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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Michael Walker]

As a wise ham told me.  What do you need a tuner for?

Don't be lazy, fix your antennas. If they aren't broken, then build
resonate antennas.  They just work the best.

Mike va3mw


On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 4:57 PM, Gerald Manthey  wrote:

> Why is 10' to 15' of coax  what you would want if using a tuner in the
> shack? I know about loses in really long runs, but why 10 to 15 feet?
> Thanks asking to learn not criticizing.
> Gerald
>
> > On Feb 17, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jim Rodenkirch 
> wrote:
> >
> > Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.
> >
> > If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll
> need
> > some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to
> coax:
> >
> >   - if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
> > efficient spot) then save your
> > money and purchase an auto tuner, e.g., an LDG Z11 ProII, and place
> it
> > at the point where the open
> > wire line transitions to coaxial feed.
> >   - if you plan on doing that inside the shack and can keep the coaxial
> run
> > short, the internal auto tuner
> > would work, albeit you could employ an LDG Z11 ProII there as well.
> >
> > If you plan on feeding any multi band antenna with coax of a length
> longer
> > than 10' to 15' an auto tuner inside the shack isn't worth much -- place
> an
> > LDG Z11 ProII style auto tuner at the base of the antenna, 'tween the
> > coaxial fee line and the antenna feed point and call it a day.
> >
> > If you plan on taking the K3S on portable tripsits auto tuner wud be
> 'da
> > way to go, as long as you keep coaxial runs 'tween the K3S and the
> antenna
> > feed point short"short" means < 10' to 15' or so.
> >
> > 72 de Jim R. K9JWV
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614247.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Make sure you use non-acidic silicon glue that is compatible with PC boards to 
do this.


Other types can degrade traces etc on the board.

Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 2/17/2016 11:05 AM, Jerry Moore wrote:

That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged the
ferrite with a bit of cardstock and the buzzing is gone where I listen. If I
change the spot frequency around I am able to find harmonic spots that make
the case buzz. Howard also gave permission via one of the other folks there
to put a dab of silicon on the ferrites to stop the rattle.
Easy fix. The result seems to depend on where you like the monitor frequency
to be.

I like Howard's suggestion to go with an external speaker or use a headset.
At this point it's fixed for my use.

Thanks.

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 1:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

Another possible cause...  If you have the 100W PA option, you MIGHT be
hearing ferrite beads rattling inside the PA module.  I don't know why they
are loose on the wires, but they are and you can hear them rattle when you
shake the module prior to install.
The Assembly Manual references them and says the rattling is "normal".

IF they are the source of your buzzing, the module will need to be
disassembled and the ferrite beads fixed in some fashion so they don't move
and/or make contact with metal enclosure, shield, et al.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 12:18 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:

Final edits: sorry for the resend but I keep needing to update the
email as it's missing parts.

  


Hi, I thought I had the sound issue licked with the loose case screws
but I still hear the buzz. I believe I found the issue and it's NOT
the speaker (well I don't believe based on my findings).

  


Hypothesis:

I strongly suspect loose transformer cores are the cause of the
buzzing that are especially louder at different harmonics.


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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Gerald Manthey]

Why is 10' to 15' of coax  what you would want if using a tuner in the shack? I 
know about loses in really long runs, but why 10 to 15 feet? 
Thanks asking to learn not criticizing. 
Gerald 

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Jim Rodenkirch  wrote:
> 
> Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.
> 
> If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll need
> some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to coax:
> 
>   - if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
> efficient spot) then save your 
> money and purchase an auto tuner, e.g., an LDG Z11 ProII, and place it
> at the point where the open 
> wire line transitions to coaxial feed. 
>   - if you plan on doing that inside the shack and can keep the coaxial run
> short, the internal auto tuner
> would work, albeit you could employ an LDG Z11 ProII there as well.
> 
> If you plan on feeding any multi band antenna with coax of a length longer
> than 10' to 15' an auto tuner inside the shack isn't worth much -- place an
> LDG Z11 ProII style auto tuner at the base of the antenna, 'tween the
> coaxial fee line and the antenna feed point and call it a day. 
> 
> If you plan on taking the K3S on portable tripsits auto tuner wud be 'da
> way to go, as long as you keep coaxial runs 'tween the K3S and the antenna
> feed point short"short" means < 10' to 15' or so.
> 
> 72 de Jim R. K9JWV
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614247.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Fred Jensen]

I don't think that's what he asked.

If the K3S is at all like the K3, the the assembly manual will tell you. 
 I remember there is some calibration stuff to do before adding either 
the ATU or PA, and it tells you which to do first.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 2/17/2016 1:31 PM, Jim Rodenkirch wrote:

Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.

If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll need
some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to coax:

- if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
efficient spot) then save your
  money and purchase an auto tuner, e.g., an LDG Z11 ProII, and place it
at the point where the open
  wire line transitions to coaxial feed.
- if you plan on doing that inside the shack and can keep the coaxial run
short, the internal auto tuner
  would work, albeit you could employ an LDG Z11 ProII there as well.

If you plan on feeding any multi band antenna with coax of a length longer
than 10' to 15' an auto tuner inside the shack isn't worth much -- place an
LDG Z11 ProII style auto tuner at the base of the antenna, 'tween the
coaxial fee line and the antenna feed point and call it a day.

If you plan on taking the K3S on portable tripsits auto tuner wud be 'da
way to go, as long as you keep coaxial runs 'tween the K3S and the antenna
feed point short"short" means < 10' to 15' or so.

72 de Jim R. K9JWV


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Jerry Moore]

I had someone contact me off list to suggest putting some small bits of tape
where the cover touches the center stiffener. I did that and now have zero
buzzing except around 440HZ or when monitor is turned up nearly all the way.


I'm not sure why this isn't an advertised fix. Tape/silicon the ferrite
beads on both boards and install x5 30mm strips of black tape in specific
places.
Easy fix. 
I've heard it said that nobody remembers what you said, only how you made
them feel. Right now I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about my radio manf.

Thanks to all who contacted me off list with suggestions and shared
frustration for this issue. 
73 ..

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 3:09 PM
To: Jerry Moore; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

No, I have not done this mod.  But I have just added it to the list, because
I AM using the internal speaker.  External speakers are on the list, but
some way down, so I will be using the internal speaker (or actually phones)
for some time.

In all fairness, I would think this issue is only rarely an "issue" for the
VAST majority of ops...  Between external speakers, not having the PA to
begin with, or using headset/phones, most folks probably don't use the
internal speaker at audio levels sufficient to reproduce the issue.

I would prefer to do the fix myself than to have the additional labor
involved in fixing the beads/conductors down (and the accompanying increase
in price/avail of PA modules).

I examined my K3s closely as I assembled it... I consider it a supremely
well-engineered piece of equipment and worth every penny I paid.  :-)

Have a super day!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 1:57 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> Have you done this ? 
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Jim Rodenkirch]

Gary - depends on your antenna and how you feed it.

If you intend to feed a multi-band antenna with open wire line, you'll need
some sort of tuner at the point where you transition from open wire to coax:

   - if you plan on doing that out near the base of your antenna (the most
efficient spot) then save your 
 money and purchase an auto tuner, e.g., an LDG Z11 ProII, and place it
at the point where the open 
 wire line transitions to coaxial feed. 
   - if you plan on doing that inside the shack and can keep the coaxial run
short, the internal auto tuner
 would work, albeit you could employ an LDG Z11 ProII there as well.

If you plan on feeding any multi band antenna with coax of a length longer
than 10' to 15' an auto tuner inside the shack isn't worth much -- place an
LDG Z11 ProII style auto tuner at the base of the antenna, 'tween the
coaxial fee line and the antenna feed point and call it a day. 

If you plan on taking the K3S on portable tripsits auto tuner wud be 'da
way to go, as long as you keep coaxial runs 'tween the K3S and the antenna
feed point short"short" means < 10' to 15' or so.

72 de Jim R. K9JWV



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Amp-or-tuner-Chicken-or-Egg-tp7614243p7614247.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Clay Autery]

KAT3A ATU first...  There are cals and such to do BEFORE the PA is
installed.  In my Assembly manual, the PA went in last before the final
button-up.

READ the Assembly Manual to confirm...  Once the PA is in, (with its
shield), the chassi gets tight around the ATU board areas where you
replace the KANT3A with the KAT3A board.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 3:12 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
> Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 
> 100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp 
> first. 
>
> Yes?
>
> Thanks & 73,
>
> Gary
> KA1J
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[Clay Autery]

I haven't looked into the command language for the P3 in depth yet...

Is there a command for a "time delay".  It would appear that you need to
insert a time delay in between each individual command to allow the unit
time to respond to each step.

Just a SWAG...  (If the command doesn't exist, it looks like a prime
candidate for the next Firmware iteration)

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 2:46 PM, Dave Cole wrote:
> Hello Tim and Gary,
>
> I have done extensive testing in trying to get a macro to perform this
> exact behavior...  
>
> I do not believe "currently" there is a way to make this happen via
> macro commands.  
>
> If you perform the needed steps by hand, with lots of space between
> commands, it works, if you then place the exact same commands in a
> macro it fails.
>
> I tested by placing each command below in its own macro key using the
> P3 Macro tester software included with the P3 utility.  Here is an
> example:
>
> I have a DX station at 14.010, and I want to move 14.010 to the left
> edge of the P3, showing the upper 5 KHz ra
>
>
> Macro 1:
> #SPN000100;   
> Sets span to plus and minus 10 KHz.
>
> Macro 2:
> UP7;  
> Moves K3 up 5 KHz.
>
> Macro 3:  
> #FXT1;
> Places the P3 in sticky mode, (Fixed Tune), locking the transmit
> frequency to the center of the P3 screen.
>
> Macro 4:
> DN7;  
> Moves the K3 down 5, dragging the transmit freq down with it, and
> putting the transmit freq on the left edge of the P3, exposing the
> upper 10 KHz of the signals on the P3.
>
> If I then fire them one at a time, everything works as expected, the
> transmit frequency is on the lower left edge for an up split.
>
> If I place them in a single macro, it fails, every time...
>
>
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave
>
> For software/hardware reviews see:
> http://www.nk7z.net
>
> For MixW support see:
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
>
> For SSTV help see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Bill Conkling]

Check the K3S assembly manual.  If I remember correctly from my Original K3 
assembly, the manual paused to instruct you when it was time to install various 
options to allow you to install or skip steps if yu were not installing that 
option.



> On Feb 17, 2016, at 4:12 PM, Gary Smith  wrote:
> 
> Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 
> 100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp 
> first. 
> 
> Yes?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> __
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[Elecraft] Amp or tuner / Chicken or Egg

[Gary Smith]

Just got my factory assembled K3s/10 delivered. I need to install the 
100W amp and internal tuner. Seems like I'd want to install the amp 
first. 

Yes?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[Dave Cole]

Hello Tim and Gary,

I have done extensive testing in trying to get a macro to perform this
exact behavior...  

I do not believe "currently" there is a way to make this happen via
macro commands.  

If you perform the needed steps by hand, with lots of space between
commands, it works, if you then place the exact same commands in a
macro it fails.

I tested by placing each command below in its own macro key using the
P3 Macro tester software included with the P3 utility.  Here is an
example:

I have a DX station at 14.010, and I want to move 14.010 to the left
edge of the P3, showing the upper 5 KHz ra


Macro 1:
#SPN000100; 
Sets span to plus and minus 10 KHz.

Macro 2:
UP7;
Moves K3 up 5 KHz.

Macro 3:
#FXT1;  
Places the P3 in sticky mode, (Fixed Tune), locking the transmit
frequency to the center of the P3 screen.

Macro 4:
DN7;
Moves the K3 down 5, dragging the transmit freq down with it, and
putting the transmit freq on the left edge of the P3, exposing the
upper 10 KHz of the signals on the P3.

If I then fire them one at a time, everything works as expected, the
transmit frequency is on the lower left edge for an up split.

If I place them in a single macro, it fails, every time...


73's, and thanks,
Dave

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



On Wed, 2016-02-17 at 12:30 -0600, Grant Youngman wrote:
> You could --
> 
> Tune up 1/2 of your span width (in your example up 2.5 kHz). Press
> "CENTER" on the P3. That would put your desired DX signal at the left
> edge of the display and the mayhem out to the right. 
> 
> I'm unaware of any way to do this directly in the current firmware. 
> 
> Grant NQ5T
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Feb 17, 2016, at 12:04 PM, a45wg  wrote:
> > 
> > Fellow Hams,
> >    Having spent the last 2 days playing with the P3 (very
> > impressed) - and eventually figuring out how to get the Function
> > keys to do something (Not well explained in the Manual IMHO), I’ve
> > got some Macro’s working - So next job - in the P3 Display is there
> > any way only to get the P3 Read The “Positive side” of the Span.
> > 
> > Say we have a DX transmitting on 28.030 Mhz …. If I set a Span of
> > 2.5 Khz - I see in the P3 28.0275 to 28.0325 - a SPAN of 5Khz, +/-
> > 2.5 Khz …. I get that. Very useful for looking for DX in a wideband
> > mode.
> > 
> > Is there anyway I can only limit the span to be 28.030 - 28.0325
> > i.e. just the positive side of the span.
> > 
> > Despite some rather strange DX expedition splits recently (not
> > mentioning a CW split of +7.5 Khz) I do not think  any DX
> > expeditions are using negative splits (Please, please do not start)
> > 
> > Any advice/guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure I can
> > do this in a Software I/Q SDR process - but I am really only trying
> > to do this from the P3.
> > 
> > Regards
> > 
> >   Tim
> >  A45WG
> > 
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB P3 With SVGA Adapter

[Mike VE3YF]

I have found a P3. Tnx Chuck


73 De Mike
VE3YF

http://www.ve3yf.com
[http://www.ve3yf.com/]
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Clay Autery]

No, I have not done this mod.  But I have just added it to the list,
because I AM using the internal speaker.  External speakers are on the
list, but some way down, so I will be using the internal speaker (or
actually phones) for some time.

In all fairness, I would think this issue is only rarely an "issue" for
the VAST majority of ops...  Between external speakers, not having the
PA to begin with, or using headset/phones, most folks probably don't use
the internal speaker at audio levels sufficient to reproduce the issue.

I would prefer to do the fix myself than to have the additional labor
involved in fixing the beads/conductors down (and the accompanying
increase in price/avail of PA modules).

I examined my K3s closely as I assembled it... I consider it a supremely
well-engineered piece of equipment and worth every penny I paid.  :-)

Have a super day!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 1:57 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> Have you done this ? 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Jerry Moore]

Have you done this ? 
Even after wedging the ferrite beads I can get the case to buzz harmonically
if I lower the monitor tone significantly. I'm happy because it works where
I listen. 
Once I finish with Morse Academy classes it will probably be rare for me to
use the built in speaker. I would like a permanent fix for it but that's
probably not going to happen.

I'm feeling pretty bad about the whole thing but am throwing in the towel.

I'm cursed with being a technician, engineer, and now a systems analyst.
It's hard for me to let go of things that should work.
Why have an internal speaker if the case has loose components/audio
harmonics that will result in distortion. 
Why have a monitor adjustment that will go to 60 if you are going to
question WHY a customer want's it that high. (I have hearing loss from the
Navy).
Why deny there's an issue when recent forum posts and reflector posts ?
Chalked up to "bent speaker", "old dsp code".etc.. 

They've offered for me to send it in for their repair/review -( presumably
at my expense for shipping, I'm east coast..  ) or replace the speaker.

I find it interesting that nobody at Elecraft seems to be able to reproduce
the issue. 

At this point I'm going to just glue the ferrite beads down and chalk it up
to bad engineering and apparently I'm the only person in the world with a
new K3S that does this. 
 
I'm still happy with the radio and would probably still buy it again. I am
starting to question overall value to cost. To be fair I believe Howard has
done all that he can. I also believe Elecraft has either an image to uphold
or a K3s audio reputation to repair. 

If Elecraft will be at the Charlotte, NC Hamfest I might just cart my rig up
and show it off. Might be interesting to see what the sales folks say.


Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:26 PM
To: Jerry Moore; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

Howard is a good man.  Glad you were able to ID the issue cause.  Sorry it
took me so long to get on-board.  I'm studying for my Extra exam Saturday
and am not paying close attention)

IDEALLY, the external speaker (if I had the money right now, 2 each) would
be a great "fix", but I would also HAVE to fix the internal speaker induced
issue (curse of being me).

Fixing the beads will stop their migration inside the enclosure, BUT to
"fix" it so that they won't buzz AT ALL at any freq, will require one or
more of the following:

1) AFTER the silicone is cured fixing the beads to a specific location on
the conductor, coat the outside of all beads with a thin insulating layer of
silicone that will stop them from vibrating the entire conductor/bead
assembly against dense parts in the module (PCB or metal).
2) Silicone the bead/conductor assembly to a convenient hard surface such
that they can NOT make direct metal to metal contact... and will not move at
all under normal ops.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged 
> the ferrite with a bit of cardstock and the buzzing is gone where I 
> listen. If I change the spot frequency around I am able to find 
> harmonic spots that make the case buzz. Howard also gave permission 
> via one of the other folks there to put a dab of silicon on the ferrites
to stop the rattle.
> Easy fix. The result seems to depend on where you like the monitor 
> frequency to be.
>
> I like Howard's suggestion to go with an external speaker or use a
headset.
> At this point it's fixed for my use.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jerry Moore
> CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
> http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
> An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, 
> and Patriotic.

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Rose]

UG-1185's have a captive center pin which can't migrate.

73

K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Clay Autery]

Howard is a good man.  Glad you were able to ID the issue cause.  Sorry
it took me so long to get on-board.  I'm studying for my Extra exam
Saturday and am not paying close attention)

IDEALLY, the external speaker (if I had the money right now, 2 each)
would be a great "fix", but I would also HAVE to fix the internal
speaker induced issue (curse of being me).

Fixing the beads will stop their migration inside the enclosure, BUT to
"fix" it so that they won't buzz AT ALL at any freq, will require one or
more of the following:

1) AFTER the silicone is cured fixing the beads to a specific location
on the conductor, coat the outside of all beads with a thin insulating
layer of silicone that will stop them from vibrating the entire
conductor/bead assembly against dense parts in the module (PCB or metal).
2) Silicone the bead/conductor assembly to a convenient hard surface
such that they can NOT make direct metal to metal contact... and will
not move at all under normal ops.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged the
> ferrite with a bit of cardstock and the buzzing is gone where I listen. If I
> change the spot frequency around I am able to find harmonic spots that make
> the case buzz. Howard also gave permission via one of the other folks there
> to put a dab of silicon on the ferrites to stop the rattle. 
> Easy fix. The result seems to depend on where you like the monitor frequency
> to be. 
>
> I like Howard's suggestion to go with an external speaker or use a headset.
> At this point it's fixed for my use.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jerry Moore
> CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
> http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
> An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
> Patriotic.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Jerry Moore]

That's exactly what I found. After speaking with Howard I've wedged the
ferrite with a bit of cardstock and the buzzing is gone where I listen. If I
change the spot frequency around I am able to find harmonic spots that make
the case buzz. Howard also gave permission via one of the other folks there
to put a dab of silicon on the ferrites to stop the rattle. 
Easy fix. The result seems to depend on where you like the monitor frequency
to be. 

I like Howard's suggestion to go with an external speaker or use a headset.
At this point it's fixed for my use.

Thanks.

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 1:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

Another possible cause...  If you have the 100W PA option, you MIGHT be
hearing ferrite beads rattling inside the PA module.  I don't know why they
are loose on the wires, but they are and you can hear them rattle when you
shake the module prior to install.
The Assembly Manual references them and says the rattling is "normal".

IF they are the source of your buzzing, the module will need to be
disassembled and the ferrite beads fixed in some fashion so they don't move
and/or make contact with metal enclosure, shield, et al.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 12:18 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> Final edits: sorry for the resend but I keep needing to update the 
> email as it's missing parts.
>
>  
>
> Hi, I thought I had the sound issue licked with the loose case screws 
> but I still hear the buzz. I believe I found the issue and it's NOT 
> the speaker (well I don't believe based on my findings).
>
>  
>
> Hypothesis:
>
> I strongly suspect loose transformer cores are the cause of the 
> buzzing that are especially louder at different harmonics.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

No sir...  referring to the terminals/plugs on the SO-239 leads soldered
to the SO-239 panel connectors in Part# E850229.

The TMP connectors you reference are used in point-to-point connection
between PCBs in other locations and have mating sockets.

These terminals plug into plated through-holes on the KANT3A/KAT3a PCB
just inside the chassis adjacent to the ANT1 and ANT2 connectors.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 12:19 PM, Ken Talbott wrote:
> Are you referring to a TMP connector, Taiko Denki (plug) TMP-K01X-A1
> (Taiko-Denki) ?
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-TMP-connector-Taiko-Denki-plug-TMP-K01X-A1-Ta
> iko-Denki-/131727979173?hash=item1eab9972a5:g:qPIAAOSwRLZUHJQi
>
> ken - ke4rg
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
> Wagner K3IU
> Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 1:13 PM
> To: Clay Autery ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors
>
> You might have luck communicating with
> pa...@elecraft.com.
> 73, Ken K3IU
> ~~
>
> On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
>> ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"
>>
>> Have a great day!
>>
>> _
> __
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> delivered to ktalb...@gamewood.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Clay Autery]

Another possible cause...  If you have the 100W PA option, you MIGHT be
hearing ferrite beads rattling inside the PA module.  I don't know why
they are loose on the wires, but they are and you can hear them rattle
when you shake the module prior to install.
The Assembly Manual references them and says the rattling is "normal".

IF they are the source of your buzzing, the module will need to be
disassembled and the ferrite beads fixed in some fashion so they don't
move and/or make contact with metal enclosure, shield, et al.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 12:18 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
> Final edits: sorry for the resend but I keep needing to update the email as
> it's missing parts.
>
>  
>
> Hi, I thought I had the sound issue licked with the loose case screws but I
> still hear the buzz. I believe I found the issue and it's NOT the speaker
> (well I don't believe based on my findings). 
>
>  
>
> Hypothesis:
>
> I strongly suspect loose transformer cores are the cause of the buzzing that
> are especially louder at different harmonics.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Just did so... Was trying not to bother those guys with a seemingly
trivial task, but

Let's consider this thread closed to the reflector.  I will respond
off-line after this.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 12:13 PM, Ken Wagner K3IU wrote:
> You might have luck communicating with pa...@elecraft.com.
> 73, Ken K3IU
> ~~
>
> On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
>> ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"
>>
>> Have a great day!
>>
>> _
>

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[Elecraft] K3 fo sale

[alvaro gaviria]

Like new K3/100 watts factory assembled

One of the latest production, serial 8915


- 2.7 kHz 5-pole SSB/CW filter

- KSYN3A from factory (the new synth which is shipped with all new K3S
radios)



Non-smoking, no pets, no children home, and always used as a base station
-- not mobile.



Purchased directly from Elecraft 10 months ago, Factory assembled, K3/100W,
stainless H/W kit, USB adapter,MH2 Mic. with a normal roof filter, comes
with the new synthesizer, the serial is 8915. Never opened



All the original cables included

Worked only for  PSK31 at 30 watts

Non-smoking environment. Mint condition, original box, Mic, manual, very
few use I am selling it because I will need to move from here



asking for  US $2300, I will pay the FedEx freight from Colombia to USA



Payment via wire transfer to my nephew in Miami Florida

Shipping viia Fedex

a MFJ MV4225MV 25 Amps power supply is included





73

ANDREW

HK4MKE

-- 

__

Alvaro Gaviria Cano. Ing.
http://astroretiro.260mb.com/
algav...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Jerry: Do you have the KRX3 sub receiver installed and, if so, is there a
foam pad on the back of the speaker magnet shield that presses against the
top of the sub receiver enclosure? (See pg 46 of the Rev H KRX3A manual.)

If that pad (or the magnet shield) is missing you'll have the speaker in
close proximity to the steel sub receiver enclosure and any vibration of the
top cover would be coupled to the sub receiver itself. It's possible the
speaker magnet shield might even touch the top of the sub receiver enclosure
when vibrating. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic
Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 11:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations - Hypothesis, Steps,
Conclusion, and Request.

Why use adhesive (which I suspect Elecraft will tell you not to do)? You can
probably solve the problem by shimming the core with a piece of soft plastic
or foam, or putting a piece of tape under it.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 17 Feb 2016 05:54, Jerry Moore wrote:
> I resent the original and added a step. I get the buzzing with the 
> monitor down low. Increasing the level allows me the ability to better 
> isolate and hear it.
> If you remove the screws from the top cover and hold it in your hand 
> there is no buzzing or distortion at any monitor level, or volume 
> level. The harmonic distortion appears to be completely and easily 
> resolvable but I need an approved adhesive to use. I'm not messing up 
> my nice radio without support and approval from the manf.
>
> Jerry Moore
> CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
> http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
> An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, 
> and Patriotic.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[Grant Youngman]

You could --

Tune up 1/2 of your span width (in your example up 2.5 kHz). Press "CENTER" on 
the P3. That would put your desired DX signal at the left edge of the display 
and the mayhem out to the right. 

I'm unaware of any way to do this directly in the current firmware. 

Grant NQ5T

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 12:04 PM, a45wg  wrote:
> 
> Fellow Hams,
>Having spent the last 2 days playing with the P3 (very impressed) - 
> and eventually figuring out how to get the Function keys to do something (Not 
> well explained in the Manual IMHO), I’ve got some Macro’s working - So next 
> job - in the P3 Display is there any way only to get the P3 Read The 
> “Positive side” of the Span.
> 
> Say we have a DX transmitting on 28.030 Mhz …. If I set a Span of 2.5 Khz - I 
> see in the P3 28.0275 to 28.0325 - a SPAN of 5Khz, +/- 2.5 Khz …. I get that. 
> Very useful for looking for DX in a wideband mode.
> 
> Is there anyway I can only limit the span to be 28.030 - 28.0325 i.e. just 
> the positive side of the span.
> 
> Despite some rather strange DX expedition splits recently (not mentioning a 
> CW split of +7.5 Khz) I do not think  any DX expeditions are using negative 
> splits (Please, please do not start)
> 
> Any advice/guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure I can do this in 
> a Software I/Q SDR process - but I am really only trying to do this from the 
> P3.
> 
> Regards
> 
>   Tim
>  A45WG
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 problem

[Dan Maase AC6DM via Elecraft]

Mike:
Suggest changing fuses in input fuse block.   I have experienced an
intermittent fuse problem in other equipment in the past that produced very
puzzling symptoms.
73 and good luck,
Dan
AC6DM



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-problem-tp7614144p7614230.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Thank you.  Nice article.  Good references.

Other than the potential center pin overheating at 1kW+, I don't see
anything there of concern to me in my installation (and I can address
that potential in other ways... namely, higher quality connectors with
proper materials used in the pin and shell construction, plating, proper
fitment to center conductor, use of appropriate solder spec, et al. Most
of which I already do as a matter of course).  If someday, I am running
a high-power PA in the 1kW+ range, I will address this concern more
completely through data acquisition at the terminations (temp
monitoring) and mitigate any negative outcomes with appropriate means.

Keep in mind that I am NOT maligning the UHF connector.  It's cheap and
effective.  That's why it is used.  "Cost" is lower on my engineering
priority list than standardization of connector types, et al. in my station.

Again, with the proper tools, materials, and experience, terminating an
N (or BNC) connector is no "harder" than a UHF connector.

__
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(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 11:42 AM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:
> http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0
>
> bob k3djc

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Ken Talbott]

Are you referring to a TMP connector, Taiko Denki (plug) TMP-K01X-A1
(Taiko-Denki) ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-TMP-connector-Taiko-Denki-plug-TMP-K01X-A1-Ta
iko-Denki-/131727979173?hash=item1eab9972a5:g:qPIAAOSwRLZUHJQi

ken - ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
Wagner K3IU
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 1:13 PM
To: Clay Autery ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

You might have luck communicating with
pa...@elecraft.com.
73, Ken K3IU
~~

On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
> But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
> ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"
>
> Have a great day!
>
> _

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[Elecraft] K3s Odd sound vibrations Edit - Hypothesis, Steps, Conclusion, and Request.

[Jerry Moore]

Final edits: sorry for the resend but I keep needing to update the email as
it's missing parts.

 

Hi, I thought I had the sound issue licked with the loose case screws but I
still hear the buzz. I believe I found the issue and it's NOT the speaker
(well I don't believe based on my findings). 

 

Hypothesis:

I strongly suspect loose transformer cores are the cause of the buzzing that
are especially louder at different harmonics.

 

Steps to reproduce and isolate the issue: 

1.   CW mode, Test (so no TX), Monitor all the way up (60? I think from
memory..Rig is disassembled atm..).

2.   Send a string of code, you can hear the tones but a buzzing, listening
to received code results in the same buzzing distortion and appears
harmonic.

3.   Remove screws from top Cover, Hold cover in Hands,  Repeat step2 -
Notice NO buzzing or distortion, the speaker sounds are clear.

4.   Disconnect all power/cables except ground.

5.   Tap the covers, top, sides,  front back, bottom, Found tapping the rear
bottom results in a perceptible rattle. 

6.   Remove bottom covers and inspect, no discernable cause, tapping board
results in a perceptible rattle.

7.   Remove Fan assembly, PA-100 unit. Tapping results in perceptible
rattle. 

8.   Inspect KLPA3A board - There's a transformer core that's loose to the
board.

9.   Tapping the KPA3A board results in a perceptible rattle. 

10.Inspect the KPA3a board  - it contains a transformer core
that's loose to the board.

 

Conclusion:

I believe that using a high temperature silicon, other adhesive, or other
method approved by Elecraft to secure the transformer cores to the circuit
boards will resolve the issue.

 

Request:

I'd like to have an Elecraft representative review my information and make a
determination as to its validity AND recommend an Elecraft acceptable
solution if they agree there's an issue.

 

Thanks in advance.

Jer Cell: 803-431-1870

 

Jerry Moore

CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB

An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Ken Wagner K3IU]

You might have luck communicating with 
pa...@elecraft.com.

73, Ken K3IU
~~

On 2/17/2016 1:05 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"

Have a great day!

_


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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Actually, for this application, I will be using Times Microwave
TC-series N-Connectors which are crimp/ solder for the shield/contact.

The pin is soldered to the center conductor with a 0.050" standoff from
the PE insulation.  The shield is crimped to the connector shell with a
0.255" hex crimp die against the shell body leaving a slight uncrimped
ring at the cable end for strain relief.  Finally, the supplied or
supplemental adhesive/sealant lined shrink tube is installed over the
appropriate area of the crimp to offer weather resistance.

The same method is used to terminate the TC-series BNC connectors.  It
is quite and easy process with the proper strip, de-bur, and crimp
frame/dies, and provides a very consistent termination.

I have used the EZ-series connectors in the past especially for static
wireless point-to-point antenna feed lines using LMR-400 and larger
cable.  The de-burred center conductor of a properly stripped end
"clicks" into the connector and crimped as above.
I have feed lines on PTP installs that have been in place for 10 years
using these connectors with ZERO problems.

Additionally, there is a third method that some cable makers use where
they use a proper die to crimp the center pin on FIRST, and then solder
the pin as a secondary connection.  This is generally over-kill, but I
have used this method in the past for terminations that MIGHT see some
rougher handling.

It all depends on the specific connector design, manufacturer, cable
type, installation considerations, et al.

Use the right connector and tools with the right cable stock, combined
with patience and skill.

I DO use crimp only connectors for 75-Ohm audio/broadcast cables (Canare
exclusively).  Almost exclusively indoors on apps where cable will not
be disturbed a lot.  Proper tools/dies and cable center conductor prep
as to straightness, deburring, cleaning insulator of stray shield bits,
center conductor length correct for crimp well and insulator contact, et
al. insure proper signal integrity and low/no leakage.

ALL connectors are vulnerable to mis-handling, weathering effects, etc. 
And you are correct, ALL exterior connectors should be adequately
protected.  Personally, I use self-fusing tape or liquid products over
the entire connection, and then a quality UV resistant electrical tape
over that.  The electrical tape is then secured at the open end with a
UV resistant cable tie to guard against tape release.  The principle
being to restore the connection area to as close to an unbroken cable
outer jacket as possible.

Further, I generally use a cable stock like the Times -DB series which
is impregnated with a moisture excluding substance anywhere that is
tough to work on, long runs, etc... in addition to direct burial of
sub-surface conduit.

Bottom Line:  It may be over-engineering, but I've been making cables
for 25+ years; they work well and setting aside catastrophic situations;
they've never failed me.

But the original question remains:  "What are the pins on the ANT1 and
ANT2 lead ends that plug into the PCBs called?"

Have a great day!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 11:31 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors"
>> to quality N-Connectors.
>
> N-connectors have a well known problem with migration of the center
> conductor.
>
> Many, including me, consider a soldered connector superior to crimps.
> I note that you use crimps.
>
> Many consider a UHF connector more robust.
>
> Constant impedance simply doesn't matter below high VHF.
>
> As to weatherproofing, I would never consider ANY connector
> waterproof, and carefully seal all outdoor connectors.
>
> I do use some N-connectors in my station, mostly to terminate some
> runs of 7/8-in and 1/2-in hard line, most of which is used for long
> runs to HF antennas.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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[Elecraft] P3 Span settings

[a45wg]

Fellow Hams,
Having spent the last 2 days playing with the P3 (very 
impressed) - and eventually figuring out how to get the Function keys to do 
something (Not well explained in the Manual IMHO), I’ve got some Macro’s 
working - So next job - in the P3 Display is there any way only to get the P3 
Read The “Positive side” of the Span.

Say we have a DX transmitting on 28.030 Mhz …. If I set a Span of 2.5 Khz - I 
see in the P3 28.0275 to 28.0325 - a SPAN of 5Khz, +/- 2.5 Khz …. I get that. 
Very useful for looking for DX in a wideband mode.

Is there anyway I can only limit the span to be 28.030 - 28.0325 i.e. just the 
positive side of the span.

Despite some rather strange DX expedition splits recently (not mentioning a CW 
split of +7.5 Khz) I do not think  any DX expeditions are using negative splits 
(Please, please do not start)

Any advice/guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure I can do this in a 
Software I/Q SDR process - but I am really only trying to do this from the P3.

Regards

   Tim
  A45WG

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Remove the trailing zero (.htm only) and the link will work.

Rick nhc

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 9:42 AM,   
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0
> 
> bob k3djc
> 
> On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 09:31:28 -0800 Jim Brown 
> writes:
>> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF
>> Connectors" to quality N-Connectors.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[riese-k3djc]

http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0

bob k3djc

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 09:31:28 -0800 Jim Brown 
writes:
> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
> > Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF 
> Connectors" to quality N-Connectors.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Jim Brown]

On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:

Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors" to quality 
N-Connectors.


N-connectors have a well known problem with migration of the center 
conductor.


Many, including me, consider a soldered connector superior to crimps. I 
note that you use crimps.


Many consider a UHF connector more robust.

Constant impedance simply doesn't matter below high VHF.

As to weatherproofing, I would never consider ANY connector waterproof, 
and carefully seal all outdoor connectors.


I do use some N-connectors in my station, mostly to terminate some runs 
of 7/8-in and 1/2-in hard line, most of which is used for long runs to 
HF antennas.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Receive drops about 6 s-units

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Dick,

Don't be too quick to blame the amplifier relay. It could be your SteppIR
yagi. This is a common SteppIR problem. QSY a bit so that the tuning light
on the SteppIR controller turns on and off. Then tune back and forth over
that frequency and listen for a drop in signal strength. If it occurs then
it is the SteppIR EHU and not your amplifier relay.

73,
Mike K2MK


rlindzen wrote
> I'm having a problem with my K3 (with 2 receivers and a P3).  While
> listening for a few minutes, signals drop about 6 s-units.  Original
> strength returns when I push the PTT, but the drop returns after a minute
> or two.  None of this impacts transmit.  It seems like a bad relay.  Has
> anyone else encountered this?
> 73, Dick, WO1I





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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Thanks John!  Yes... a quality Amphenol or other name maker, the right
tools, and experience make them quite easy to use in terminating coax. 
I have also had good experience with the TImes Microwave TC series AND
EZ series.
The EZ series makes it "literally" a snap to do with the right strip
tool and crimp dies for your frame.

But the original question remains:

What is the nomenclature for the pins on the leads?

Heyco makes a pin that looks similar, but it is 0.187" dia...  too big
I'm sure.

I'll probably have to buy the UHF kits from Elecraft and cannibalize them.

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 7:53 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> My station has a lot of N connectors on HF and I find them easy to install
> on RG8 size coax. I recently installed BNC connectors on RG8X for my RX
> system, I was previously using UHF to BNC adaptors. It took me a little
> while to figure them out, but they are really not difficult either. I only
> purchase Amphenol and Andrew connectors.
>
> John KK9A
>
> Gary K9GS garyk9gs at wi.rr.com
> Wed Feb 17 07:24:47 EST 2016
>
> N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble.  Makes no
> sense to me.
>
> On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and ANT2
>>> with N-Connectors, but I don't want to de-solder the pigtails from the
>>> stock UHF connectors.
>> Why? UHF connectors are generally superior at HF and low VHF.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Microham Microkeyer II, RFI in mike with my K3

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

On 2/17/2016 2:05 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
> Perhaps that's what you're selling now, and if it is, that's great.

The microHAM supplied cables have been the same from the very start.
Again, schematics are on the web site.  The cables consist of special
multi-cable bundles with six individually shielded coaxial cables and
one shielded four wire cable in a common jacket.  The outer jacket is
cut back and the individual cables "fan out" to the appropriate jacks
on the transceiver end.  The mic cable is separate and in the case of
the DB37-EL-K3R is two individually shielded coaxial cables.

Again, the cables/interfaces work without RFI if the installation uses
good engineering practice.  No active external interface will be 100%
"RFI free" if the user fails to keep the RF voltage well below the
levels of the desired signals (~5 mV for dynamic mic audio).

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 2/17/2016 2:05 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

Joe,

Perhaps that's what you're selling now, and if it is, that's great. But
what I described is what is at W6OAT. As it happens, I rode into San
Francisco tonight with him to meet a visiting JA contester for dinner.
He confirmed that what I wrote was an accurate description of what's in
his station. He's agreed to grab a few photos that I'll be happy to send
you if you would like to refresh your memory.

73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,2/16/2016 5:54 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Jim,

On 2/16/2016 2:04 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

Indeed, it would darn near impossible to do it right without starting
from scratch withunit a properly made cable from the MicroHam unit to
the radio, with each signal path having its own coaxial cable.


Please confine your comments to areas where you are knowledgeable.  The
microHAM cables *DO* use a separate coaxial cable (or shielded twisted
pair) for each signal path.  The shields are connected to the shell of
the respective connector on each end of the cable.  With properly
designed transceivers, this design will minimize RFI issues.  When good
engineering practice is used in the station installation - including
antenna systems - there should be no RFI problems with a properly
implemented microKEYER II, MK2R+ or micro2R system.

Schematics for every microHAM cable are available from the support
area at www.microham.com or www.microHAM-USA.com/support.html.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Clay Autery]

Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF Connectors" to
quality N-Connectors.

I've been making all my own cables for 25+ years.  N-Connectors and BNC
connectors are no harder and "UHF" connectors are not any easier.  If
you've terminated enough cables with most any series connector, it gets
easier.  Has something to do with the right tools and experience.

Bottom Line:  I did not ask anyone to offer an opinion on UHF vs
N-Connectors.  I asked if anyone could tell me the name of the PCB pins
used on the pigtails and a wire/cable spec for the lead.  It only needs
to make sense to me.

Thanks!  And have a super day!

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/17/2016 6:24 AM, Gary K9GS wrote:
> Exactly Jim
>
> N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble.  Makes no
> sense to me.
>
> On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and
>>> ANT2
>>> with N-Connectors, but I don't want to de-solder the pigtails from the
>>> stock UHF connectors.
>>
>> Why? UHF connectors are generally superior at HF and low VHF.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> __
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>>
>>
>> -- 
>> 73,
>>
>> Gary K9GS
>>
>> Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
>> Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
>> CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org
>>
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Robert Nobis]

Gary, I find N-Type connectors just as easy to assemble as UHF connectors.  

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 17, 2016, at 05:24, Gary K9GS  wrote:
> 
> Exactly Jim
> 
> N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble.  Makes no sense to 
> me.
> 
> On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and ANT2
>>> with N-Connectors, but I don't want to de-solder the pigtails from the
>>> stock UHF connectors.
>> 
>> Why? UHF connectors are generally superior at HF and low VHF.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Gary K9GS
>> 
>> Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
>> Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
>> CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[j...@kk9a.com]

My station has a lot of N connectors on HF and I find them easy to install
on RG8 size coax. I recently installed BNC connectors on RG8X for my RX
system, I was previously using UHF to BNC adaptors. It took me a little
while to figure them out, but they are really not difficult either. I only
purchase Amphenol and Andrew connectors.

John KK9A

Gary K9GS garyk9gs at wi.rr.com
Wed Feb 17 07:24:47 EST 2016

N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble.  Makes no
sense to me.

On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and ANT2
>> with N-Connectors, but I don't want to de-solder the pigtails from the
>> stock UHF connectors.
>
> Why? UHF connectors are generally superior at HF and low VHF.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Gary K9GS]

Exactly Jim

N and BNC connectors are also more difficult to assemble.  Makes no 
sense to me.


On 2/17/2016 12:41 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Tue,2/16/2016 6:59 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

I've decided to replace the SO-239 bulkhead connectors for ANT1 and ANT2
with N-Connectors, but I don't want to de-solder the pigtails from the
stock UHF connectors.


Why? UHF connectors are generally superior at HF and low VHF.

73, Jim K9YC
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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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[Elecraft] K3 For Sale

[Richard Thorne]

I have the following K3-100F (not S) for sale.
Serial # 8233 with the following features:
Main Receiver has the following 8 Pole Filters: 6, 2.8,1.8,.400,.250
KRX3-F Sub Receiver with the following 8 pole Filters: 2.8, .400
KDVR3-F Digital Voice Recorder
KXV3B-F RX Ant., 2nd Pre-Amp, IF Out and Xverter Interface
KSYN3AUPG - 2 each upgraded at the factory

$2950 Shipped/Insured

Paypal ok but will need to add 2.9% for fees. We can discuss other forms 
of payment as needed.


Rich - N5ZC

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