Re: [Elecraft] Annual Field Day tips (including a few new ones)

[Wayne Burdick]

Oversight on my part, Robert. I've had KX-Line on the brain all year because of 
the KX2 release.

In fact, Field Day is why Elecraft exists, and the K2 was the rig Eric and I 
dreamed up to improve our FD experience. We're still tweaking things nearly 20 
years later :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jun 24, 2016, at 6:57 PM, Robert G Strickland  wrote:

> Alas, no mention of the K2, my FD go to radio. This is understandable, and no 
> criticism is meant. The K2 is yesterday's radio, while the KX2/3 are for 
> today and tomorrow. That said, it's fun to run up a lot of CW q's on the 
> "old" K2 while other operators in the group are using up-to-date Japanese 
> radios and struggling with SSB.
> 
> ...robert
> 
> On 06/25/2016 00:16, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> Here are my annual tips for getting the most out of your rig at Field Day. 
>> (Some are Elecraft-specific--thanks for the bandwidth!)
>> 
>> 1. BATTERY LIFE: To conserve battery life, use hunt-and-pounce rather than 
>> calling CQ, and use lower power output when possible. This is especially 
>> practical on a very quiet band, such as on 15 or 10 meters in the afternoon 
>> and early evening. You'll be amazed at how many stations you can work with 
>> one watt when these higher bands are open.
>> 
>> - Lower power can also keep the rig cooler. (As will operating in the shade! 
>> At least keep the heat sink in the shade, if you can. On the KX3, the heat 
>> sink occupies the back edge and bottom of the enclosure. On the KX2, it's 
>> the right side panel.)
>> 
>> - To reduce supply current in receive mode, use headphones rather than the 
>> internal speaker, and if lighting conditions permit, turn off the LCD 
>> backlight (MENU:BKLIGHT).
>> 
>> - The KX2 has an amp-hour monitoring feature. Tap DISP and rotate VFO B to 
>> obtain this reading. To clear the AH value to zero, go into the AMP HRS menu 
>> entry and hold CLR.
>> 
>> - The KX3 automatically switches the power amplifier to a more efficient 
>> setting based on the mode, supply voltage, and power setting. You can tell 
>> that power-saving mode is in effect by a decimal point after the 'W' in the 
>> power value (e.g., "5.0 W."). In SSB and audio data modes, the applicable 
>> level is 3.0 watts.
>> 
>> 
>> 2. QRP HUNT-AND-POUNCE TIP: This type of operation can be greatly enhanced 
>> by using dual watch (KX2/KX3) or a sub receiver (K3/K3S). It allows you to 
>> keep one VFO on a station you're waiting to call, while tuning the other VFO 
>> to look for the next station to call. (If you beat my own 1B-Battery score 
>> because of this tip...guess I asked for it :)
>> 
>> 
>> 3. ANTENNA SELECTION: The general rule is, "the longer and higher, the 
>> better," suggesting wire-in-a-tree antennas. (If you're lucky enough to have 
>> a portable yagi, that's even better.)
>> 
>> - When winding antenna wire for storage, wind it in a figure-8 pattern. When 
>> you release the bundle later, it will spring out easily without kinks or 
>> tangles.
>> 
>> - An electrically short whip will work in a pinch, but you'll typically 
>> realize a 5 to 15 dB improvement on both RX and TX with an an-hoc wire 
>> antenna.
>> 
>> - Most Elecraft rigs have an optional internal, wide-range ATU that can tune 
>> random wire antennas on all or some bands. Once the antenna is set up, go 
>> into the ATU menu entry on each band of interest and hold CLR to clear out 
>> all L-network memories. You may then only have to do ATU TUNE once or twice 
>> per band. Data for your home antennas may be stored for up to 32 smaller 
>> segments on each band.
>> 
>> - When connecting a wire directly to an ATU, avoid wire lengths that are 
>> multiples of a half-wave on any target band (unless you're using a half-wave 
>> antenna with a matching transformer at the rig). 26' and 52' (approximately) 
>> work well for 40-6 meters in most cases, and 52' will usually allow matching 
>> on 80 m as well.
>> 
>> - You can use these same lengths for counterpoise wires, which are essential 
>> for low loss on transmit. Without at least one counterpoise wire, your 
>> transmitted signal will be an additional 10-20 dB lower, even if the ATU can 
>> match the antenna.
>> 
>> 
>> 4. ANTENNA SPACING: If you're using more than one transmitter, try to keep 
>> the antennas as far apart as possible and perpendicular to each other. This 
>> is a good practice with all FD stations, because it can prevent receiver 
>> de-sensing and intermodulation distortion. If two stations unavoidably have 
>> their antennas in each other's near fields, you can dig into a pretty deep 
>> bag of tricks, including reducing preamp gain or turning on the attenuator. 
>> These settings are per-band on all Elecraft rigs.
>> 
>> - KX3: Try setting MENU:RX SHFT to 8.0 rather than NOR. (The KX2 always uses 
>> 8 kHz shift.)
>> 
>> 
>> 5. OSCILLATOR ISOLATION: The KX2 and KX3, like other radios with a 
>> quadrature direct-conversion architecture, use a VFO (local 

Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[Don Wilhelm]

Robin,

I understand about your pleasures of the K2, but I doubt you will see 
any more upgrades to the K2.  Just enjoy it as it is right now (unless 
yours could use the upgrade kits that are available).


Parts for the K2 are becoming harder and harder to source, but Elecraft 
has done a magnificent job of trying to keep up with alternatives as the 
availability of the original parts has vanished.  A few that I have been 
involved with are the substitution of the speech processor on the KSB2 
option, the unavailability of SA612 ICs in DIP format, and the lack of 
trimmer capacitors that were used in the past (which created the demise 
of the K1 4 band board).


I am not sure how much longer the K2 can "hang in there" as a new kit 
with the world switching to SMD components and leaving the thru-hole 
components behind as obsolete.  Time will tell, but what I am saying is 
that Elecraft has made successful substitutions so far, but there will 
be a day when that is no longer possible.  I also hate to think of the 
time when proper replacement parts for the K2 are no longer available, 
but I do see "the writing on the wall".


So to ask for improvement for an 18 year old design may be asking for 
more than can be reasonably accomplished at a desirable price point.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2016 12:09 AM, Robin Bayer wrote:

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal battery. Oh
and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats the
KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A great
value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
rag chews.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Theodore Roosevelt famously said, "Do what you can, with what you have,
where you are."  I've always found that an essential path to joy. 

The K2 is an outstanding rig. Besides, you built it yourself (just like I
did 16 years ago). 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robin
Bayer
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 9:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2s

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a K2s
upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal battery. Oh
and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats the
KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A great
value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during rag
chews.

Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.

Robin
KA5QQA

K1. sold to buy a K2
KX1 sold to buy a k2
K2
KX3
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + XV432

[Don Wilhelm]

Ken,

There is something strange going on.  Does the XV432 stay in the receive 
state when you remove the RCA plug from the KEYIN jack on the XV432?


You have two things to work with - both the KX3 and the XV432, and both 
should be set up properly.


If you are wanting to use the KEYOUT from the KX3, then you will have to 
configure the XV432 as non-Elecraft.  That means a jumper on JP7 and 
*no* jumper on JP8. You will also have to have all 4 dip switches set to 
OFF.  The XV432 will be active when the power switch is on.


If you have a sufficiently high resistance at the XV432 KEYIN jack, the 
transverter should be in the receive state, and it should go to transmit 
when the KX3 is set to transmit.


You can still set the XVn menus in the KX3 to the proper frequency, 
drive level, etc. so the KX3 shows the XV432 output frequency when you 
switch the XV432 on.


That is the easiest setup.

Are you certain you have plugged the 2.5mm ACC2 plug in all the way?  
Give it that extra push to fully seat it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2016 9:15 PM, Ken Alexander wrote:
I'm trying to complete the alignment and setup on my newly completed 
XV432.  I'm going to use it with my KX3.


I made a cable so the KX3 can key the XV432 to transmit.  RCA phono 
plug at the XV432 and a 2.5mm stereo plug for ACC2 on the KX3.  Center 
pin on the phono plug connects to the RING on the stereo plug.  
Whenever I connect the two units together with the cable the XV432 go 
into transmit.  If I unplug it from the KX3 it goes back into receive.


I checked that only the RING and ground are connected at the stereo 
plug.  I have checked for shorts (ring/center pin to ground) and 
continuity (from ground to ground and RING to center pin) many times 
and everything is OK.


With the cable plugged in to the KX3 I measure infinite resistance 
(open circuit) across the phono plug.


The RING terminal is not affected by ACC2 IO menu settings.

My understanding is that the keyline goes low during transmit, 
according to the KX3 manual.  It's not low when I check it on receive, 
but it still keys the transverter when I connect the two of them 
together.  I think I've covered all possibilities, but they aren't 
working together the way they should.


Anybody have any ideas.  I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks and 73,



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Re: [Elecraft] Annual Field Day tips (including a few new ones)

[Robert G Strickland]

Alas, no mention of the K2, my FD go to radio. This is understandable, 
and no criticism is meant. The K2 is yesterday's radio, while the KX2/3 
are for today and tomorrow. That said, it's fun to run up a lot of CW 
q's on the "old" K2 while other operators in the group are using 
up-to-date Japanese radios and struggling with SSB.


...robert

On 06/25/2016 00:16, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Here are my annual tips for getting the most out of your rig at Field Day. 
(Some are Elecraft-specific--thanks for the bandwidth!)

1. BATTERY LIFE: To conserve battery life, use hunt-and-pounce rather than 
calling CQ, and use lower power output when possible. This is especially 
practical on a very quiet band, such as on 15 or 10 meters in the afternoon and 
early evening. You'll be amazed at how many stations you can work with one watt 
when these higher bands are open.

- Lower power can also keep the rig cooler. (As will operating in the shade! At 
least keep the heat sink in the shade, if you can. On the KX3, the heat sink 
occupies the back edge and bottom of the enclosure. On the KX2, it's the right 
side panel.)

- To reduce supply current in receive mode, use headphones rather than the 
internal speaker, and if lighting conditions permit, turn off the LCD backlight 
(MENU:BKLIGHT).

- The KX2 has an amp-hour monitoring feature. Tap DISP and rotate VFO B to 
obtain this reading. To clear the AH value to zero, go into the AMP HRS menu 
entry and hold CLR.

- The KX3 automatically switches the power amplifier to a more efficient setting based on 
the mode, supply voltage, and power setting. You can tell that power-saving mode is in 
effect by a decimal point after the 'W' in the power value (e.g., "5.0 W."). In 
SSB and audio data modes, the applicable level is 3.0 watts.


2. QRP HUNT-AND-POUNCE TIP: This type of operation can be greatly enhanced by 
using dual watch (KX2/KX3) or a sub receiver (K3/K3S). It allows you to keep 
one VFO on a station you're waiting to call, while tuning the other VFO to look 
for the next station to call. (If you beat my own 1B-Battery score because of 
this tip...guess I asked for it :)


3. ANTENNA SELECTION: The general rule is, "the longer and higher, the better," 
suggesting wire-in-a-tree antennas. (If you're lucky enough to have a portable yagi, 
that's even better.)

- When winding antenna wire for storage, wind it in a figure-8 pattern. When 
you release the bundle later, it will spring out easily without kinks or 
tangles.

- An electrically short whip will work in a pinch, but you'll typically realize 
a 5 to 15 dB improvement on both RX and TX with an an-hoc wire antenna.

- Most Elecraft rigs have an optional internal, wide-range ATU that can tune 
random wire antennas on all or some bands. Once the antenna is set up, go into 
the ATU menu entry on each band of interest and hold CLR to clear out all 
L-network memories. You may then only have to do ATU TUNE once or twice per 
band. Data for your home antennas may be stored for up to 32 smaller segments 
on each band.

- When connecting a wire directly to an ATU, avoid wire lengths that are 
multiples of a half-wave on any target band (unless you're using a half-wave 
antenna with a matching transformer at the rig). 26' and 52' (approximately) 
work well for 40-6 meters in most cases, and 52' will usually allow matching on 
80 m as well.

- You can use these same lengths for counterpoise wires, which are essential 
for low loss on transmit. Without at least one counterpoise wire, your 
transmitted signal will be an additional 10-20 dB lower, even if the ATU can 
match the antenna.


4. ANTENNA SPACING: If you're using more than one transmitter, try to keep the 
antennas as far apart as possible and perpendicular to each other. This is a 
good practice with all FD stations, because it can prevent receiver de-sensing 
and intermodulation distortion. If two stations unavoidably have their antennas 
in each other's near fields, you can dig into a pretty deep bag of tricks, 
including reducing preamp gain or turning on the attenuator. These settings are 
per-band on all Elecraft rigs.

- KX3: Try setting MENU:RX SHFT to 8.0 rather than NOR. (The KX2 always uses 8 
kHz shift.)


5. OSCILLATOR ISOLATION: The KX2 and KX3, like other radios with a quadrature 
direct-conversion architecture, use a VFO (local oscillator) running at or very 
close to the operating frequency. If you have another radio on the same band as 
the KX2 or KX3, and the antennas are close together, the other radio may be 
able to hear the rig's oscillator when they're both tuned close to the same 
frequency.

To prevent this entirely, the KX3 includes an isolation amplifier that keeps 
the oscillator from radiating back through the mixer. Normally this amplifier 
is turned off to save about 15 mA of receive-mode current drain. To turn on the 
isolation amp, set MENU:RX ISO to ON. This has no effect on performance.

The KX2 doesn't have an isolation amp, but 

[Elecraft] KX3 + XV432

[Ken Alexander]

I'm trying to complete the alignment and setup on my newly completed 
XV432.  I'm going to use it with my KX3.


I made a cable so the KX3 can key the XV432 to transmit.  RCA phono plug 
at the XV432 and a 2.5mm stereo plug for ACC2 on the KX3.  Center pin on 
the phono plug connects to the RING on the stereo plug.  Whenever I 
connect the two units together with the cable the XV432 go into 
transmit.  If I unplug it from the KX3 it goes back into receive.


I checked that only the RING and ground are connected at the stereo 
plug.  I have checked for shorts (ring/center pin to ground) and 
continuity (from ground to ground and RING to center pin) many times and 
everything is OK.


With the cable plugged in to the KX3 I measure infinite resistance (open 
circuit) across the phono plug.


The RING terminal is not affected by ACC2 IO menu settings.

My understanding is that the keyline goes low during transmit, according 
to the KX3 manual.  It's not low when I check it on receive, but it 
still keys the transverter when I connect the two of them together.  I 
think I've covered all possibilities, but they aren't working together 
the way they should.


Anybody have any ideas.  I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks and 73,

Ken Alexander
VE3HLS

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[Elecraft] Annual Field Day tips (including a few new ones)

[Wayne Burdick]

Here are my annual tips for getting the most out of your rig at Field Day. 
(Some are Elecraft-specific--thanks for the bandwidth!)

1. BATTERY LIFE: To conserve battery life, use hunt-and-pounce rather than 
calling CQ, and use lower power output when possible. This is especially 
practical on a very quiet band, such as on 15 or 10 meters in the afternoon and 
early evening. You'll be amazed at how many stations you can work with one watt 
when these higher bands are open. 

- Lower power can also keep the rig cooler. (As will operating in the shade! At 
least keep the heat sink in the shade, if you can. On the KX3, the heat sink 
occupies the back edge and bottom of the enclosure. On the KX2, it's the right 
side panel.)

- To reduce supply current in receive mode, use headphones rather than the 
internal speaker, and if lighting conditions permit, turn off the LCD backlight 
(MENU:BKLIGHT). 

- The KX2 has an amp-hour monitoring feature. Tap DISP and rotate VFO B to 
obtain this reading. To clear the AH value to zero, go into the AMP HRS menu 
entry and hold CLR.

- The KX3 automatically switches the power amplifier to a more efficient 
setting based on the mode, supply voltage, and power setting. You can tell that 
power-saving mode is in effect by a decimal point after the 'W' in the power 
value (e.g., "5.0 W."). In SSB and audio data modes, the applicable level is 
3.0 watts.


2. QRP HUNT-AND-POUNCE TIP: This type of operation can be greatly enhanced by 
using dual watch (KX2/KX3) or a sub receiver (K3/K3S). It allows you to keep 
one VFO on a station you're waiting to call, while tuning the other VFO to look 
for the next station to call. (If you beat my own 1B-Battery score because of 
this tip...guess I asked for it :)


3. ANTENNA SELECTION: The general rule is, "the longer and higher, the better," 
suggesting wire-in-a-tree antennas. (If you're lucky enough to have a portable 
yagi, that's even better.) 

- When winding antenna wire for storage, wind it in a figure-8 pattern. When 
you release the bundle later, it will spring out easily without kinks or 
tangles.

- An electrically short whip will work in a pinch, but you'll typically realize 
a 5 to 15 dB improvement on both RX and TX with an an-hoc wire antenna.

- Most Elecraft rigs have an optional internal, wide-range ATU that can tune 
random wire antennas on all or some bands. Once the antenna is set up, go into 
the ATU menu entry on each band of interest and hold CLR to clear out all 
L-network memories. You may then only have to do ATU TUNE once or twice per 
band. Data for your home antennas may be stored for up to 32 smaller segments 
on each band.

- When connecting a wire directly to an ATU, avoid wire lengths that are 
multiples of a half-wave on any target band (unless you're using a half-wave 
antenna with a matching transformer at the rig). 26' and 52' (approximately) 
work well for 40-6 meters in most cases, and 52' will usually allow matching on 
80 m as well. 

- You can use these same lengths for counterpoise wires, which are essential 
for low loss on transmit. Without at least one counterpoise wire, your 
transmitted signal will be an additional 10-20 dB lower, even if the ATU can 
match the antenna.


4. ANTENNA SPACING: If you're using more than one transmitter, try to keep the 
antennas as far apart as possible and perpendicular to each other. This is a 
good practice with all FD stations, because it can prevent receiver de-sensing 
and intermodulation distortion. If two stations unavoidably have their antennas 
in each other's near fields, you can dig into a pretty deep bag of tricks, 
including reducing preamp gain or turning on the attenuator. These settings are 
per-band on all Elecraft rigs.

- KX3: Try setting MENU:RX SHFT to 8.0 rather than NOR. (The KX2 always uses 8 
kHz shift.)


5. OSCILLATOR ISOLATION: The KX2 and KX3, like other radios with a quadrature 
direct-conversion architecture, use a VFO (local oscillator) running at or very 
close to the operating frequency. If you have another radio on the same band as 
the KX2 or KX3, and the antennas are close together, the other radio may be 
able to hear the rig's oscillator when they're both tuned close to the same 
frequency. 

To prevent this entirely, the KX3 includes an isolation amplifier that keeps 
the oscillator from radiating back through the mixer. Normally this amplifier 
is turned off to save about 15 mA of receive-mode current drain. To turn on the 
isolation amp, set MENU:RX ISO to ON. This has no effect on performance. 

The KX2 doesn't have an isolation amp, but isolation is very good when the 
preamp is on.

Have fun!

73,
Wayne
N6KR





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[Elecraft] Tuneup, Rescue, build your K2, K1, KX1, others

[Alan D. Wilcox]

Hello,

Have you always wanted an Elecraft? A KX1, K1, K2, K3, whatever? 
Does your K2 need a tuneup?
I build and service them all!

See what my clients have said about my construction and service work at 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6768 

Photos of the popular "Twins" -- the KPA100 and KAT100 in EC2 enclosure --  are 
at
http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/ 

In addition to tuning your rig, I can also rescue a building project you might 
have started some time ago.

Cheers,
Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-478-0736 (cell, text)
http://amazon.com/author/alandwilcox
Williamsport, PA 17701 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Dale Putnam]

I have a J-38 from WWII.. original base, and very nice, with the fabric covered 
cable, FS.

photos available too.

And I recommend it... SKCC #87  loves it.


Have a great day,
--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy




From: Elecraft  on behalf of Bill 

Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 12:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

Long arm keys, typically those found in maritime service, are the most
pleasant of the straight keys to  use. They are expensive.

An inexpensive alternative is the Czech key seen at:
http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/ has a nice feel also. They can be
[http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/images/P1000781b_opt.jpg]

Czech Morse Keys - UV-3R
www.uv3r.com
Czech army, military morse code key importers and Baofeng UV-3R suppliers



found from $25 to $60 on the Internet. Their good action is due to their
folded long-arm design. I have one and it is my straight key of preference.

If you go for a bug, nothing beats the VizBug at:
http://vizkey.com/order.html#90degreevizbugIt is a small and very
quiet bug (no thrashing machine noises).

I have a Vibroplex single lever paddle that I have been using since the
early 60s. Perfect for a normal keyer (don't care much for the one in
the K3).

I have never used a two paddle anything - so no comments about them.

Want to learn more about keys and CW operation in general? Take a look
at: http://radiotelegraphy.net/

I have no business interests in any of the above and really don't care
if you choose an Amplidan or just tap two bare wires together - both of
which will get the same job done.

Bill W2BLC K-Line

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[Elecraft] New KX2 beta firmware, rev. 2.66; easier to use MIC menu entries; DSP error fix

[Wayne Burdick]

The latest KX2 beta firmware can be found at:

  http://www.elecraft.com/KX2/kx2_software.htm

We recommend that all KX2 owners load this revision. The package includes DSP 
rev. 1.48, which improves on the previous DSP revision to correct a possible 
error condition. The error would be indicated by an "ERR DSP" or "ERR DSE" 
message on the display, odd S-meter behavior, or other symptoms. The condition 
is rare, but it could be inconvenient if it occurred in the field.

The other changes in this release are given below.

Please see our KX2 software page (above) for instructions on loading beta 
releases.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

* * *

KX2 MCU 2.66 / DSP 1.48, 6-24-2016

* MIC BTN, MIC BIAS, and all VOX MENU SETTINGS ADJUSTABLE IN ALL MODES: Locking 
these out was causing problems in some cases. None of these settings apply to 
the internal mic, but you can now adjust them with or without an external mic 
plugged in.

* DSP BUG FIX: Eliminates the “ERR DSP” and “ERR DSE” error conditions that 
appeared on a small number of KX2s, typically at power-up.


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[Elecraft] [FS] K3 and accs. price drop

[Glen Torr]

Hi All,

For sale, K SN 2680.
Includes:-
General Coverge RX
700, 2.8K, 6.0 and 15K 8 pole filters.
100 Watt
ATU
Upgraded DSP Board
SS screws
P3 SN 150
K144XV internal 2 meter module.
HM2
Original owner, non smoker, little operating time. Built by professional
electronics technical officer.

AUD $3,500 negotiable.

prefer VK 1,2 or 3 but not a show stopper elsewhere.

KX3 and KXPA 1000 are now favourites.

Glen Torr, VK1FB
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Re: [Elecraft] Sharing K3s I/O between devices

[G4ABX]

Many thank Dwight.
I will do that next week

73
Bruce G4ABX



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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Spike won't go away

[Brian Waterworth]

Thank you Jim.  I have read your white paper on RFI and grounding and your
deliberations on the pin-1 problem.  I guess I will have to read it again
:-)  It was about 1.5 years ago.

Ok, I will start piecing together a new set of interconnecting braid
cables, as Don recommended, tonight.

Joe, I feel as though I usurped your original thread.  Hopefully it helped
you as much as it helped me.

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW

On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 11:37 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Thu,6/23/2016 7:16 PM, Brian Waterworth wrote:
>
>> For some context on why I went to a common point.  I read, what I thought
>> was an excellent article, about ground loops from the Flexradio site a
>> couple of years ago.  Here is the link:
>> http://kc.flex-radio.com/knowledgebasearticle50426.aspx
>>
>> I thought that daisy chaining would introduce ground loops and hence the
>> reason I went to a common point.
>>
> Look at your equipment -- there is already a "daisy-chained" loop between
> equipment in the form of those audio cables and coax. The problem, as Don
> notes, is that they often don't go to the chassis, but rather to the
> circuit board, which couples hum, buzz, and RFI into and out of equipment.
> This is "The Pin One Problem," first identified by pro audio engineer Neil
> Muncy (W3WJE, SK) in 1994. Virtually all ham gear, including Flex and
> Elecraft, has Pin One Problems at audio and control connectors.
>
> However, I don't think you are advising this.
>>
>
> Brian,
>
> Study my slides that Don referenced. The concept of a "ground loop" as a
> cause of hum, buzz, and RFI is false, and causes people to do the WRONG
> things to solve such problems. The slides show the TRUE cause, which is
> leakage current from the AC power system.
>
> The ONLY way in which a "loop" is problematic is that it provides a path
> for magnetic coupling between victim equipment and a strong magnetic field
> produced by a noise source. Two common sources are 1) the stray fields
> produced by big power transformers, and 2) a wiring error in home power
> wiring called a "double-bonded neutral," where the neutral is bonded to the
> green wire somewhere other than the point where power enters the building.
> In both cases, the interference is heard as HUM (pure 60 Hz) rather than
> BUZZ (harmonics of 60 Hz).
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[Matt Maguire]

It's not just the fun of building it, it's also the fun of using a radio you 
built yourself. It's nice to be able to undrrstand and appreciate the design, 
which is harder with the KX3 since the most interesting parts are locked away 
out of sight in proprietary code.
One feature I really like about the K2 is you can plug in paddles, straight 
keys, bugs etc. all connected in parallel and the K2 will automatically detect 
which is which.

73, Matt VK2RQ




On Sat, Jun 25, 2016 at 12:35 AM +1000, "Phil Wheeler"  
wrote:










Robin,

Since you have a KX3, why the K2?  In what ways 
(other than the fun of building it!) do you find 
the K2 better than the KX3 -- unless you have the 
K2/100?

I have K2/100, KX3, K3/100, etc. and my K2/100 is 
currently not in use.  Maybe I'll get it set up 
now that I have a second operating location.

73, Phil W7OX

On 6/23/16 9:09 PM, Robin Bayer wrote:
> For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
> K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all those
> aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal battery. Oh
> and easily adjustable DSP filtering.
>
> A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.
>
> For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats the
> KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
> signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A great
> value.
>
> Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
> immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
> rag chews.
>
> Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.
>
> Robin
> KA5QQA
>
> K1. sold to buy a K2
> KX1 sold to buy a k2
> K2
> KX3

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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

[tomb18]

The sdrplay is  12 bit so it does not have the dynamic range of lppan and a 
sound card. That being said I do not see much difference. One ting you will 
notice is that having such a wide bandwidth does at times give strange 
behaviours. For example, if I tune to a certain frequency and then use 1.8 Mhz 
some peaks may not be visible far  from the center frequency but then if I tune 
up or down a few hertz they shiw up and at the same time a click is heard from 
the k3. I presume bandpass filters may be kicking in. For the full amateur 
bands, I generally do not see this behaviour.Win4k3 also down samples 
automatically to maintain resolution.the current api for sdrplay has a minimum 
sampling rate of 200 samples per second. So you need to sample at a high 
rate and then downsample at the same time with fir filters, so cpu use goes 
up.The next release of the sdrplay api has built in lower sampling rates so cpu 
cycles will be reduced. You won't see thus with sdrsharp or hdsdr since they 
keep one sampling rate and do not downsample. Thus in gneral at an fft of 16384 
bins they have a resolution of 120hz or so. Not good enough for hf.. Instead 
you need to use higher order fft's to increase resolution. They need to be 
quite high like 132,000 fft's which cause a pronounced delay and much higher 
cpu usage on older machines.In any case,  processing delays and the sdrplay cpu 
do cause about 1/4 to 1/2 second delays between the sound and the peaks.73

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: John Sweeney  Date: 
2016-06-24  3:47 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: tomb18  Subject: Re: 
[Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output 
Tom,  

Current happy user of Win4K3 with LP Pan and a EMU 0202 card.   Even Windows 10 
and works great.   But been thinking of trying the SDR Play.   Is the SDR Play 
as good of set up or even better than Lp pan and sound card?    Would reduce a 
few cables at least . 

John.  N3WT

> On Jun 24, 2016, at 3:17 PM, tomb18  wrote:
> 
> HiWin4K3Suite just starting supporting the SDRPLAY device. The device works 
> quite well offering 1.8 Mhz bandwidth from the if out. It covers 10 khz to 
> 2.1 ghz.73 Tom va2fsq.com
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Jerry Moore  
> Date: 2016-06-24  3:04 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'a45wg' , 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF 
> Output 
> +1 add me to the conversation please.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of a45wg
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 2:07 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output
> 
> Fellow Elecrafters,
>    I have been experimenting with using the IF out from my K3-S to feed 
>an SDR Radio which will in turn allow me to perform some real time signals 
>analysis (including but not only cw-skimmer). I have got the setup working 
>using some cheap RTL-SDR’s which are not designed for HF bands (but with 
>slightly different firmware can be make to sort of work - down to 20 Mhz they 
>are bearable).
> 
>    Is anyone else doing this - I would appreciate some feedback (preferably 
>positive) regarding more suitable SDR receivers  ??
> 
>    Please feel free to PM me - I shall post back the boiled down wisdom….
> 
>    73s and thanks
> 
>    Tim - A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

[Dave Fugleberg]

I bought a SDRPlay from HRO at Dayton, but haven't had a lot of time to
play with it yet. From the specs, it looks like it would be much better for
that application than the cheap RTL dongles. It's not as cheap as a dongle,
but at around $150 US, it's cheap enough to experiment with. I think I paid
about $139 on sale at Dayton.
I know that many folks are using them for panadapter with the K3. I may try
that out too, but I just got a P3 so I'm kinda spoiled already :)
On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 2:04 PM Jerry Moore  wrote:

> +1 add me to the conversation please.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> a45wg
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 2:07 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output
>
> Fellow Elecrafters,
> I have been experimenting with using the IF out from my
> K3-S to feed an SDR Radio which will in turn allow me to perform some real
> time signals analysis (including but not only cw-skimmer). I have got the
> setup working using some cheap RTL-SDR’s which are not designed for HF
> bands (but with slightly different firmware can be make to sort of work -
> down to 20 Mhz they are bearable).
>
> Is anyone else doing this - I would appreciate some feedback
> (preferably positive) regarding more suitable SDR receivers  ??
>
> Please feel free to PM me - I shall post back the boiled down
> wisdom….
>
> 73s and thanks
>
> Tim - A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

[tomb18]

HiWin4K3Suite just starting supporting the SDRPLAY device. The device works 
quite well offering 1.8 Mhz bandwidth from the if out. It covers 10 khz to 2.1 
ghz.73 Tom va2fsq.com


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Jerry Moore  
Date: 2016-06-24  3:04 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'a45wg' , 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output 
+1 add me to the conversation please.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of a45wg
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 2:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

Fellow Elecrafters,
I have been experimenting with using the IF out from my K3-S to 
feed an SDR Radio which will in turn allow me to perform some real time signals 
analysis (including but not only cw-skimmer). I have got the setup working 
using some cheap RTL-SDR’s which are not designed for HF bands (but with 
slightly different firmware can be make to sort of work - down to 20 Mhz they 
are bearable).

Is anyone else doing this - I would appreciate some feedback 
(preferably positive) regarding more suitable SDR receivers  ??

Please feel free to PM me - I shall post back the boiled down wisdom….

73s and thanks

Tim - A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

[Jerry Moore]

+1 add me to the conversation please.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of a45wg
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 2:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

Fellow Elecrafters,
I have been experimenting with using the IF out from my K3-S to 
feed an SDR Radio which will in turn allow me to perform some real time signals 
analysis (including but not only cw-skimmer). I have got the setup working 
using some cheap RTL-SDR’s which are not designed for HF bands (but with 
slightly different firmware can be make to sort of work - down to 20 Mhz they 
are bearable).

Is anyone else doing this - I would appreciate some feedback 
(preferably positive) regarding more suitable SDR receivers  ??

Please feel free to PM me - I shall post back the boiled down wisdom….

73s and thanks

Tim - A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Fred Jensen]

American Morse Equipment has a variety of small paddles.  I have their 
porta-paddle mounted on my field ops clipboard with Super-Velcro, and it 
works great.  Not sure why you want a small one like the KX3 however, 
you'll have to figure out how to hold it down.  It's hard to beat a 
Bencher BY-1 ... cost-wise, you can buy several for the price of a 
Begali .  It takes a bit of adjustment to get it right for you 
but the wrench to do so comes with it.


Your K3 does Iambic-A and -B, pick one.  I've never found an obvious 
advantage to Iambic and don't use it, but be advised, -B sends a 
trailing dit all by itself under some circumstances.


Regarding starting on a straight key:  That subject is in the top five 
subjects in ham radio that have migrated directly and completely into a 
religion -- with arguments pro, con, and ambivalence extending to 
infinity. :-)  Do whatever you feel comfortable with.  If your goal is 
to converse using Morse at speeds above 12-15 WPM, better start with a 
paddle and keyer.  If you are prone to carpal tunnel syndrome [formerly 
called "glass arm"], go directly to paddle, do not pass GO, and do not 
collect $200.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 6/24/2016 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and
action of the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has
not sent code in decades and I would like to start sending on my K3
so can someday use a KX on CW from a remote location. I will be
practically starting from scratch but I'm guessing there's no reason
to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your thoughts! Rick
N3IKQ __

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Bill]

Long arm keys, typically those found in maritime service, are the most 
pleasant of the straight keys to  use. They are expensive.


An inexpensive alternative is the Czech key seen at: 
http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/ has a nice feel also. They can be 
found from $25 to $60 on the Internet. Their good action is due to their 
folded long-arm design. I have one and it is my straight key of preference.


If you go for a bug, nothing beats the VizBug at: 
http://vizkey.com/order.html#90degreevizbugIt is a small and very 
quiet bug (no thrashing machine noises).


I have a Vibroplex single lever paddle that I have been using since the 
early 60s. Perfect for a normal keyer (don't care much for the one in 
the K3).


I have never used a two paddle anything - so no comments about them.

Want to learn more about keys and CW operation in general? Take a look 
at: http://radiotelegraphy.net/


I have no business interests in any of the above and really don't care 
if you choose an Amplidan or just tap two bare wires together - both of 
which will get the same job done.


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[EricJ]

I don't think it matters that what you practice on matches the KX3 key 
either. Almost any paddle that is comfortable for you should be fine. 
There's a difference between dual and single lever paddles, but even 
then, if you learn on one, it won't take much to adapt to something else.


Dual levers are needed for so-called iambic keying. Single levers can't 
be used for that, but they work exactly the same except you can't do 
squeeze keying for alternating dits/dahs. Take a look at this:


http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf

That site is a great source of info on keys and will let you compare a 
large number of them.


You can use ANY electronic keyer without ever learning squeeze keying or 
even knowing it exists. You can ignore Iambic A vs B in your KX3 as they 
are irrelevant if you don't use squeeze keying.


No need to start with a straight key, however, it will teach you more 
about proper timing than an electronic keyer, and that will translate to 
better timing on an electronic keyer. You're relearning a skill, not how 
to operate a specific device.


If you skip the straight key, you skip a very useful, traditional and 
interesting skill. You can also skip learning a bug, but it is a 
fascinating device and another interesting skill. In almost 60 years 
I've gone from straight key to occasional bug to electronic keyer to 
straight key to bug. Currently, I'm about 95% bug using a lefthanded 
homebrew one I made several months ago. I can switch with relative ease, 
sometimes within the same QSO from that bug to my commercial righthanded 
bugs to a straight key to the internal K2 keyer. Your brain works it all 
out with only a little effort to shake off the rust.


You'll easily adapt from almost any paddle to the KX3 paddle in no time 
once you regain your skill with one of them.


Eric KE6US

SKCC 86


On 6/24/2016 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ



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[Elecraft] SDR Processing from IF Output

[a45wg]

Fellow Elecrafters,
I have been experimenting with using the IF out from my K3-S to 
feed an SDR Radio which will in turn allow me to perform some real time signals 
analysis (including but not only cw-skimmer). I have got the setup working 
using some cheap RTL-SDR’s which are not designed for HF bands (but with 
slightly different firmware can be make to sort of work - down to 20 Mhz they 
are bearable).

Is anyone else doing this - I would appreciate some feedback 
(preferably positive) regarding more suitable SDR receivers  ??

Please feel free to PM me - I shall post back the boiled down wisdom….

73s and thanks

Tim - A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[EricJ]

In my case, the form factor is a huge consideration. Having the knobs on 
the top makes sense for a trail-friendly radio that sits on your lap or 
a nearby rock, but it is not, at least for me, the best ergonomics for a 
base station. Putting it on a plastic tilting stand doesn't change that.


Cabling is another big factor. I like cables coming out the rear, not 
sprouting from all sides. It makes sense on a TFR, but not so much in a 
base station where other gear abuts it.


Believe me, I'm not knocking the KX3 as I've never owned or operated 
one. I've never even seen one except in pictures. I had a KX1 and it was 
always the last radio I picked up to take camping. (K1 was the first). 
It was more of a hangar queen for me. I just never enjoyed using it, but 
I never really used it as a trail-friendly radio which is what it was 
designed to be. The K1 was much more comfortable to use sitting in a 
campsite tuning the radio while I poked at the campfire. Based on form 
factor, the KX3 was never a consideration for me and neither is the KX2 
(certainly the ultimate TRF) for the same reason.


I have two K2/10s with KPA/KATU in EC2 box (SN567 and 6911), and just 
about every internal accessory. I didn't build any of it so the fun of 
building is irrelevant to me. I like them because they are very 
competent, reliable, wonderfully supported, even traditional radios that 
suit me. That's enough.


Eric KE6US


On 6/24/2016 7:32 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Robin,

Since you have a KX3, why the K2?  In what ways (other than the fun of 
building it!) do you find the K2 better than the KX3 -- unless you 
have the K2/100?


I have K2/100, KX3, K3/100, etc. and my K2/100 is currently not in 
use.  Maybe I'll get it set up now that I have a second operating 
location.


73, Phil W7OX

On 6/23/16 9:09 PM, Robin Bayer wrote:

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all 
those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal 
battery. Oh

and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats 
the

KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A 
great

value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
rag chews.

Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.

Robin
KA5QQA

K1. sold to buy a K2
KX1 sold to buy a k2
K2
KX3


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It's smart to practice on an Elecraft rig. What seems to bother most Hams is 
not the key so much as the keyer and whether or not you want to become 
proficient at Iambic (squeeze) keying. There are two common modes of Iambic 
keyer operation and, depending upon the keyer implementation, they sometimes 
behave slightly differently. Elecraft has been very consistent in the keyer 
implementation, but be aware that you can select Mode A or Mode B in the menu. 
Stick with one or the other if you are practicing Iambic keying.  

Using the paddles in "bug" mode (no squeeze action) is much less dependent upon 
the keyer, but Iambic keying is very much worthwhile to learn if you are going 
to do much actual "brass pounding". 

Personally, I don't think the paddles themselves make much difference for 
learning. The basics can be learned on a wide variety of simple, inexpensive 
paddles. Later on you can take advantage of the smooth action of the Elecraft 
paddles once your basic skills are well in hand. 

Others have brought up avoiding the paddles altogether and starting with a 
straight key. It's hard to pass up the nicely-integrated paddles in one of the 
portable Elecraft rigs but if you are curious about a straight key, learning to 
use it correctly makes all the difference between fun and frustration. 

Here is an old film showing how the US Navy and US Army taught use of the 
straight key back in WWII. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQyP7VJqvqE

This is a general introduction for military radiomen. The discussion of the key 
itself starts about 1 minute into the film. 

It's how I was taught and allowed me to send for very long periods of time 
without fatigue, just as they state. I still enjoy grabbing my J-38 key (as 
shown in the film) when QSOing below 20 wpm. 

73, Ron AC7AC


 

-Original Message-

> On 6/24/16 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
>
>> Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and 
>> action of the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has 
>> not sent code in decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 
>> so can someday use a KX on CW from a remote location. I will be 
>> practically starting from scratch but I'm guessing there's no reason 
>> to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your thoughts! Rick 
>> N3IKQ
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I wonder if trying to match the size and action are really that important.
Once you have say Iambic-B down on one set of paddles then moving to
another set is not a real challenge I think. A few minutes warm-up and away
you go.

The Begali Adventure is a beautiful key. I own other Begali keys and easily
swap from the Sculpture to the ​KXPD3. Someday I'll own an Adventure I
think.

I wonder if someone might come up with a base for the KXPD3 where it can be
used off the radio? That would make a fine option if you want to practice
with a similar key. :) Now I wish I had some metalworking skills.

Also, as a long term SKCC member (605T) I will second Willis' comment.
Straight keys are a blast. Bugs are even more fun! But I know that's not
what you asked... just a little plug for the alternatives.

73 and enjoy!

Kev / K4VD

On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 12:53 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Re "a desktop key that is close to the size and action of the key attached
> to the KX3": That's your core question, it appears.
>
> Size-wise the Begali Adventure is likely close, but action-wise likely
> not. It can be a desktop key on the right base.  But price is likely
> prohibitive for what you have in mind.
>
> Perhaps Wayne will weigh in.
>
> 73, Phil W7OX
>
>
> On 6/24/16 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
>
>> Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and
>> action of the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent
>> code in decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday
>> use a KX on CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from
>> scratch but I'm guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key
>> right? Thanks for your thoughts! Rick N3IKQ
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Phil Wheeler]

Rick,

Re "a desktop key that is close to the size and 
action of the key attached to the KX3": That's 
your core question, it appears.


Size-wise the Begali Adventure is likely close, 
but action-wise likely not. It can be a desktop 
key on the right base.  But price is likely 
prohibitive for what you have in mind.


Perhaps Wayne will weigh in.

73, Phil W7OX

On 6/24/16 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ


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Re: [Elecraft] Sharing K3s I/O between devices

['DGB']

I recommend you calling Brandon at Elecraft.

I promise he will be able to get you going quicker then anyone else.

73 Dwight NS9I


On 6/24/2016 10:32 AM, G4ABX wrote:

Good afternoon all.
I have just implemented a Remote Rig Setup which is working, more or less.
(No PTT on Mic for some reason)
My Control Station consists of a K3s, P3, MicroKeyer II, StationMaster,
Remote Rig Box, 1K-FA, Rotator control and a Logging PC (MAC running MLDX)

Every time I use the RemoteRig setup to control my remote station (a K3, P3,
Microkeyer II, RRC) I have to mostly disconnect my 'Normal' Station and
switch MIC, KEY, PTT, etc from the K3s to the RRC. This is a pain -- and
I've already broken cables after multiple connects/disconnects which have
led to hours of frustration trying to find out what didn't work any more?!

My ideal scenario would to simply 'Plumb in' the RemoteRig box into my
existing K3, MicroKeyer II, StationMaster, 1K-FA set up so the only action
needed by me was to hold the MENU button of the K3s to switch the rig into
Terminal mode.

I guess it comes down to whether all the elements can share the K3 ports of
various types?
Has anyone done this?

Is this possible or is this fantasy?

73
Bruce G4ABX





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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

As a long term member of SKCC (Straight Key Century Club) I offer the following 
reasons.  It is more fun, it allows easier speed diversity, it is traditional.  
If your objective is to strictly send the best CW possible as easy as possible, 
type it on a keyboard and use a computer.  If you want to come as close as 
possible using hand generated code, use a set of paddles of your choice.  My 
choice is a Bencher Hex.  If you want to do it the hard way, start with a 
Straight Key and work up to a Bug.  It will be more fun.  What ever method you 
use, get started with what you have, can beg, borrow or steal, you will not 
regret it!  If this does not satisfy or run you off, contact me and I will give 
you more info after  Field Day, meanwhile, join a club at Field Day and expect 
at least as many opinions as operators you contact.Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,K5EWJ, 
SKCC 4077S

  From: rick jones via Elecraft 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 11:21 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation
   
Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ
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[Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[rick jones via Elecraft]

Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Spike won't go away

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,6/23/2016 7:16 PM, Brian Waterworth wrote:

For some context on why I went to a common point.  I read, what I thought
was an excellent article, about ground loops from the Flexradio site a
couple of years ago.  Here is the link:
http://kc.flex-radio.com/knowledgebasearticle50426.aspx

I thought that daisy chaining would introduce ground loops and hence the
reason I went to a common point.
Look at your equipment -- there is already a "daisy-chained" loop 
between equipment in the form of those audio cables and coax. The 
problem, as Don notes, is that they often don't go to the chassis, but 
rather to the circuit board, which couples hum, buzz, and RFI into and 
out of equipment. This is "The Pin One Problem," first identified by pro 
audio engineer Neil Muncy (W3WJE, SK) in 1994. Virtually all ham gear, 
including Flex and Elecraft, has Pin One Problems at audio and control 
connectors.



However, I don't think you are advising this.


Brian,

Study my slides that Don referenced. The concept of a "ground loop" as a 
cause of hum, buzz, and RFI is false, and causes people to do the WRONG 
things to solve such problems. The slides show the TRUE cause, which is 
leakage current from the AC power system.


The ONLY way in which a "loop" is problematic is that it provides a path 
for magnetic coupling between victim equipment and a strong magnetic 
field produced by a noise source. Two common sources are 1) the stray 
fields produced by big power transformers, and 2) a wiring error in home 
power wiring called a "double-bonded neutral," where the neutral is 
bonded to the green wire somewhere other than the point where power 
enters the building. In both cases, the interference is heard as HUM 
(pure 60 Hz) rather than BUZZ (harmonics of 60 Hz).


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] ALAN WILCOX

[Alan KB7MBI via Elecraft]

 
Alan
 
Do you still have some pictures available? I purchased a  K2 with EC2 with 
amp and tuner installed but no info from the previous  owner how to connect 
the two. i found your post online. Do you still have the  pictures?: 
=POSTED ON ELECRAFT LIST===
Paul, 
A  picture is always helpful, so I posted some photos up on my site 
so  you can see what the combination looks like. 
See http://wilcoxengineering.com/amateur-radio/kpa100inec2
Hope  it helps! 
Alan 

==
Alan  D. Wilcox, W3DVX 
570-321-1516 
_http://WilcoxEngineering.com_ (http://wilcoxengineering.com/) 
Williamsport,  PA 17701
=== 
 
ALAN  KB7MBI
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[Elecraft] Sharing K3s I/O between devices

[G4ABX]

Good afternoon all.
I have just implemented a Remote Rig Setup which is working, more or less.
(No PTT on Mic for some reason)
My Control Station consists of a K3s, P3, MicroKeyer II, StationMaster,
Remote Rig Box, 1K-FA, Rotator control and a Logging PC (MAC running MLDX)

Every time I use the RemoteRig setup to control my remote station (a K3, P3,
Microkeyer II, RRC) I have to mostly disconnect my 'Normal' Station and
switch MIC, KEY, PTT, etc from the K3s to the RRC. This is a pain -- and
I've already broken cables after multiple connects/disconnects which have
led to hours of frustration trying to find out what didn't work any more?!

My ideal scenario would to simply 'Plumb in' the RemoteRig box into my
existing K3, MicroKeyer II, StationMaster, 1K-FA set up so the only action
needed by me was to hold the MENU button of the K3s to switch the rig into
Terminal mode. 

I guess it comes down to whether all the elements can share the K3 ports of
various types?
Has anyone done this?

Is this possible or is this fantasy?

73
Bruce G4ABX





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Re: [Elecraft] Getting a KXPA100 to work with a KX2

[Peter Pauly]

The Y adapter was the part I didn't have correct. Thanks Richard, it's
working now.

On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 11:05 AM, Richard Jones  wrote:

> Had the same problem.There is a 'y' adapter that goes from the 2
> cables coming from the KXPA100 into a single plug into the accessory
> connection on the KX2.  The cable is called the KX2ACBL.  Using it and
> everything works correctly.  You also have to go into Menu setup and turn
> PA mode to on.
>
> Enjoy
>
> Dick  W0PZD.
>
> On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 6:03 AM, Peter Pauly  wrote:
>
>> I just finished putting together a KXPA100 with ATU.  I've got the KX2
>> connected to it via a KXPACBL connected to the accessory jack on the KX2
>> and the CAT5 cable on the amp. The smaller GPIO plug is unconnected. Also
>> the BNC of the KX2 is connected to the RF IN on the amp. I put the KX2 in
>> PA Mode YES and can dial up the power to 100 Watts on the KX2.  KX2 mode
>> is
>> CW. KXPA100 is in Auto ATU mode, ANT 1.
>>
>> The transmit light on the KXPA100 never comes on.
>>
>> If I hit the Tune button on the KX2, it shows at solid 25 Power Out LED
>> and
>> a 1 SWR LED.
>> If I hit the XMIT button on the KX2, nothing happens on the KXPA100.
>> If I hit the Tune button on the button on the KXPA100, I get a flashing 25
>> LED (SWR?) on both a known good antenna and a 50 ohm dummy load.
>>
>> Any suggestions before I contact Elecraft technical support?
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>>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Spike won't go away

[Clay Autery]

companies --> company's  WW, -5 points,  Ouch, I don't usually make such
glaring grammatical errors.  Apologize...

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 6/24/2016 9:50 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
> You just HAD to make me aware of this companies existence  ;)
> Nice products...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 6/24/2016 5:08 AM, Brian Waterworth wrote:
>> Hi Phil,
>>
>> It is a Stealth.  I picked it up used at a flea market.  Mine is an older
>> model no longer supported, but it works really well.  Perfect pairing for
>> the KX3/PX3 due to its size and ability to run off of 12V.
>>
>> https://www.stealth.com/littlepcs/fanless-mini-pcs/
>>
>> regards,
>> Brian
>> VE3IBW
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Spike won't go away

[Clay Autery]

You just HAD to make me aware of this companies existence  ;)
Nice products...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 6/24/2016 5:08 AM, Brian Waterworth wrote:
> Hi Phil,
>
> It is a Stealth.  I picked it up used at a flea market.  Mine is an older
> model no longer supported, but it works really well.  Perfect pairing for
> the KX3/PX3 due to its size and ability to run off of 12V.
>
> https://www.stealth.com/littlepcs/fanless-mini-pcs/
>
> regards,
> Brian
> VE3IBW
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[Phil Wheeler]

Robin,

Since you have a KX3, why the K2?  In what ways 
(other than the fun of building it!) do you find 
the K2 better than the KX3 -- unless you have the 
K2/100?


I have K2/100, KX3, K3/100, etc. and my K2/100 is 
currently not in use.  Maybe I'll get it set up 
now that I have a second operating location.


73, Phil W7OX

On 6/23/16 9:09 PM, Robin Bayer wrote:

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal battery. Oh
and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats the
KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A great
value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
rag chews.

Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.

Robin
KA5QQA

K1. sold to buy a K2
KX1 sold to buy a k2
K2
KX3


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[Elecraft] Getting a KXPA100 to work with a KX2

[Peter Pauly]

I just finished putting together a KXPA100 with ATU.  I've got the KX2
connected to it via a KXPACBL connected to the accessory jack on the KX2
and the CAT5 cable on the amp. The smaller GPIO plug is unconnected. Also
the BNC of the KX2 is connected to the RF IN on the amp. I put the KX2 in
PA Mode YES and can dial up the power to 100 Watts on the KX2.  KX2 mode is
CW. KXPA100 is in Auto ATU mode, ANT 1.

The transmit light on the KXPA100 never comes on.

If I hit the Tune button on the KX2, it shows at solid 25 Power Out LED and
a 1 SWR LED.
If I hit the XMIT button on the KX2, nothing happens on the KXPA100.
If I hit the Tune button on the button on the KXPA100, I get a flashing 25
LED (SWR?) on both a known good antenna and a 50 ohm dummy load.

Any suggestions before I contact Elecraft technical support?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[Bert Craig]

There are some who have stated that they prefer the "sound" of the K2's receive 
over the K3. Subjective? Sure, but the endorsement stands nonetheless. I too 
absolutely love my K1 & K2/100.

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI 

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-
From: Robin Bayer 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 12:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2s

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal battery. Oh
and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats the
KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A great
value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
rag chews.

Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.

Robin
KA5QQA

K1. sold to buy a K2
KX1 sold to buy a k2
K2
KX3
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Spike won't go away

[Brian Waterworth]

Hi Phil,

It is a Stealth.  I picked it up used at a flea market.  Mine is an older
model no longer supported, but it works really well.  Perfect pairing for
the KX3/PX3 due to its size and ability to run off of 12V.

https://www.stealth.com/littlepcs/fanless-mini-pcs/

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 10:37 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> What sort of "small computer", Brian?
>
> Phil W7OX
>
>
> On 6/23/16 4:31 PM, Brian Waterworth wrote:
>
>> In prep for field day, I decided to stage everything last night and also
>> ran into the same problem as you describe.  I re-seated all the cables.
>> No
>> effect.  I turned on the rx shft on the kx3 and the nasty noise shifted
>> away.  Ok, that's good.  But not what I wanted.
>>
>> I disconnected the USB acc1 cable from the small computer I was planning
>> to
>> take with me to FD and the noise vanished.  Each of the computer, the kx3,
>> px3, external power supply, external antenna tuner are all grounded to a
>> common point.  The exception is the monitor and fan (it's going to be hot
>> :-).
>>
>> I connected the same setup using a raspberry pi instead of the small
>> computer and no noise observed at the tuned frequency.  Drat.
>>
>> So, I am thinking of buying a powered USB hub to try and isolate the USB
>> acc1 cable plugged into the PX3.  Seems as thought the small computer I
>> was
>> going to use is picking up the internal IF and bringing it back into the
>> PX3, KX3 via the USB acc1 cable.
>>
>> regards,
>> Brian
>> VE3IBW
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 10:58 AM, Sanger, Joseph > >
>> wrote:
>>
>> I have developed a new problem with my PX3, which has been quietly sitting
>>> in a case for the past 6 months.
>>>
>>> Whenever I tune across the display, there is a slowly rising spike at the
>>> base frequency (for instance, in USB mode this spike adheres to the left
>>> hand edge of the bandpass indicator on PX3 screeen), takes about 2-3
>>> seconds or so to increase in intensity, and then dwarfs any of the
>>> signals
>>> on the band.  This spike tracks across as I tune; it is there whether or
>>> not the antenna is connected.  I can tune to stations and hear them fine,
>>> but the display is barely usable because of this very tall spike that
>>> won't
>>> go away.  I reseated my cables connecting the PX3 to KX3, with no change
>>> in
>>> behavior.  I have no other cables here to swap them out, and am kind of
>>> stuck
>>>
>>> I have updated b both KX3 and PX3 to latest firmware, with no change in
>>> behavior.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated.
>>>
>>> --Joe
>>> --WB2SSB
>>>
>>
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