Re: [Elecraft] Early Production K1's

[Macy monkeys]

I have K1’s 78 and 52, built a long, long time ago. Still percolating 
perfectly. Never had any problems. Used no. 78 in Field Day without nary a 
hiccup.

John K7FD

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 9:50 PM, Tony  wrote:
> 
> All:
> 
> I may have found the K1 I've been looking for. It's serial number is in the 
> 550 range and I'd like to know if there's any issues with these early 
> production runs before I make a purchase.
> 
> I'm told the K1 is a solid design with quality components so I suspect 
> longevity isn't a problem. I understand parts are available so that doesn't 
> appear to be an issue either.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony
> 
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[Elecraft] Early Production K1's

[Tony]

All:

I may have found the K1 I've been looking for. It's serial number is in 
the 550 range and I'd like to know if there's any issues with these 
early production runs before I make a purchase.


I'm told the K1 is a solid design with quality components so I suspect 
longevity isn't a problem. I understand parts are available so that 
doesn't appear to be an issue either.


Thanks,

Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Other Radios

[buddy]

I frankly don't understand the appeal of the IC-705. It sounds like it's a
'7300 except at QRP levels, for about the same price. Am I wrong about that?
Because that doesn't sound nearly as portable as a even a KX3. And it
doesn't even come with an automagic antenna tuner. 

FWIW, even though I'm not very active of late, I still love my KX3! And my
K2, even if the K2 is still sort of packed away from an aborted move.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 9:34 PM
To: Eric Norris
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Other Radios


> Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> I know Elecraft is very busy finalizing the K4, but I wonder if they have
a
> secret Tiger Team working on a response to the IC--705?  Perhaps a KX4?

Hi Eric,

I can't comment on any mythical beasts one way or the other. But I think the
existing KX line holds its own against the most likely competition, both old
and new.

Take the KX2. Relative to either of the Other Radios:

- it's 60% lighter / 50% smaller (i.e., it really *is* an HF HT)

- on battery power, it draws only 150 mA in RX mode vs. 400-700 mA

- has an internal battery with over twice the capacity (watt-hours)

- includes a built-in mic and keyer paddle

- provides nearly the same DSP feature set as the K3S, 
  including text decode/encode/display in multiple modes

- has an extremely high-contrast LCD easily readable in bright sunlight
  (The Others wash out -- ask me how I know...)

...and perhaps most important:

- the KX2, like the KX3, has a built-in wide range ATU that will match 
  anything from barbed wire fences to lightly salted snow.

SOTA and POTA and casual users alike have told us that these are the factors
that matter most in a portable rig. Those who also need VHF/UHF capability
typically carry an inexpensive dual-band HT for that purpose.

Disclaimer: IMHO. YMMV.

73.5,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

[Ted Cowan]

I have found an XG2 in working condition.

Thank you all for your offers and interest.

73, Ted NA7C

On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 10:04 PM Ted Cowan  wrote:

> I am looking to buy an Elecraft XG1 or XG2, either built and working or in
> kit form.
>
> 73, Ted NA7C
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Other Radios

[Bill Frantz]

I can testify to this statement. I have learned that when my KX3 
takes a long time getting a match, with lots of clicking etc. 
that I should check to make sure the antenna is actually 
connected and that the coax isn't shorted.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/1/20 at 9:34 PM, n...@elecraft.com (Wayne Burdick) wrote:

- the KX2, like the KX3, has a built-in wide range ATU that 
will match anything from barbed wire fences to lightly salted snow.


---
Bill Frantz| "I wish there was a knob on the TV to turn 
up the
408-348-7900   | intelligence.  There's a knob called 
"brightness", but

www.pwpconsult.com | it doesn't work. -- Gallagher

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Other Radios

[Wayne Burdick]

> Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> I know Elecraft is very busy finalizing the K4, but I wonder if they have a
> secret Tiger Team working on a response to the IC--705?  Perhaps a KX4?

Hi Eric,

I can't comment on any mythical beasts one way or the other. But I think the 
existing KX line holds its own against the most likely competition, both old 
and new.

Take the KX2. Relative to either of the Other Radios:

- it's 60% lighter / 50% smaller (i.e., it really *is* an HF HT)

- on battery power, it draws only 150 mA in RX mode vs. 400-700 mA

- has an internal battery with over twice the capacity (watt-hours)

- includes a built-in mic and keyer paddle

- provides nearly the same DSP feature set as the K3S, 
  including text decode/encode/display in multiple modes

- has an extremely high-contrast LCD easily readable in bright sunlight
  (The Others wash out -- ask me how I know...)

...and perhaps most important:

- the KX2, like the KX3, has a built-in wide range ATU that will match 
  anything from barbed wire fences to lightly salted snow.

SOTA and POTA and casual users alike have told us that these are the factors 
that matter most in a portable rig. Those who also need VHF/UHF capability 
typically carry an inexpensive dual-band HT for that purpose.

Disclaimer: IMHO. YMMV.

73.5,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Bill Frantz]

I have a MFJ-264 which is rated for 100W more or less 
continuously and 1500W for 10 seconds. It seems to work within 
its specs. I've used it at up to 1KW or so.


I assume it is like most MFJ equipment, it does what it is 
specified to do, but don't push it even a little bit beyond.


73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| There's nothing so clear| Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | as a design you haven't | 150 Rivermead 
Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com | written down. - Dean Tribble| Peterborough, 
NH 03458


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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Ken WA8JXM]

The difference between a "dry" and an "air cooled"?  I think they are the
same.  The difference is with "oil cooled".  Heathkit used to sell a
"Cantenna" which was a dummy load in a gallon paint can.  Add your own
transformer oil.  IIRC it was rated for a KW for a short period.

Ken WA8JXM

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 5:45 PM NJMike  wrote:

> I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100.  What's the
> difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load?  Which is
> better?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>
>
> --
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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Don Wilhelm]

A dry dummy load is good for up to its power rating - but do not exceed 
that rating.  The air cooled dummy loads not only require power for the 
fan, but may be over-rated for their power spec.


I prefer dry or oil immersed dummy loads.

A good dummy load should present a 1.0 SWR for all the bands of 
interest.  Check with an antenna analyzer.  If you have access to a 
vector analyzer, it should show 50 ohms resistive and zero reactance at 
all frequencies of interest.


Those home-built with resistors can usually be OK up through 30 MHz, but 
may fail at 50 MHz and above - and that includes the 'cantenna' types 
(oil immersed resistors).  careful construction is required to reduce 
the inductance involved in the mounting and assembly.


I have 3 'cantenna' type dummy loads, two for 150 watts In quart cans 
and one for 1000 watts in a gallon can.  They are OK up through 30 MHz, 
but not above that level.
They are good for loads on the transmitter, but are not sufficient for 
precise measurement.


I also have 2 precision dummy loads that are good up into the GHz 
region.  Those are the ones that I use for measurements (up to 100 
watts) And for the K3 TX Gain calibration.  I have another that I rate 
at 50 watts (using a 100 watt Caddock thick film resistor on a heatsink) 
that is a good load up through 220 MHz.


None of mine are air cooled.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2020 7:45 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

Basically the same thing.  I suggest the Vectronics DL-650 (dx engineering)
or a commercial pull from Ridge Equipment.  For serious testing, I fire up
my 2GHz, 6kW water-cooled dummy load--louder than 10 KPA-1500s on PCP.

Always get more capacity than you need. --because you'll need it later.  If
you get an amp, a high power dummy load is essential for tracking down
possible RFI.  I keep a 50-watt dummy load on ANT2 of the K3S for a quick
TXGN CAL, and a DL-2500 on ANT2 of the KPA1500.  But then, I love the smell
of a hot dummy load in the morning.  It smells like...radio.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020, 2:44 PM NJMike  wrote:


I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100.  What's the
difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load?  Which is
better?

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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Eric Norris]

Basically the same thing.  I suggest the Vectronics DL-650 (dx engineering)
or a commercial pull from Ridge Equipment.  For serious testing, I fire up
my 2GHz, 6kW water-cooled dummy load--louder than 10 KPA-1500s on PCP.

Always get more capacity than you need. --because you'll need it later.  If
you get an amp, a high power dummy load is essential for tracking down
possible RFI.  I keep a 50-watt dummy load on ANT2 of the K3S for a quick
TXGN CAL, and a DL-2500 on ANT2 of the KPA1500.  But then, I love the smell
of a hot dummy load in the morning.  It smells like...radio.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020, 2:44 PM NJMike  wrote:

> I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100.  What's the
> difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load?  Which is
> better?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Mike Kopacki]

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Re: [Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[Walter Underwood]

An air-cooled dry dummy load is just fine for 100 W. I like the Oak Hills 
Research RFL-100 kit. $50 and easy to build. It uses twenty 5 W resistors.

http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm

I wrote up my build of that kit here.

https://observer.wunderwood.org/2016/12/31/building-a-dummy-load/

If you want to buy instead of build, I’d look at one of the used Bird dummy 
loads listed here. There are other sites, but this one seems to have a good 
selection.

https://www.nm3e.com/loadSampler.htm#LoadSampler

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 2:44 PM, NJMike  wrote:
> 
> I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100.  What's the
> difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load?  Which is
> better?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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[Elecraft] Difference in dummy loads

[NJMike]

I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100.  What's the
difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load?  Which is
better?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM



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[Elecraft] OT: IC-705

[Eric Norris]

I know Elecraft is very busy finalizing the K4, but I wonder if they have a
secret Tiger Team working on a response to the IC--705?  Perhaps a KX4?

73 Eric WD6DBM
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 cap

[Don Wilhelm]

Carlos,

Yes, that is an unfortunate effect of the difficulty in obtaining 
thru-hole capacitors.  That particular one cannot be bent over because 
it will interfere with the PA transistor mounting.


If you also ordered the KSB2 option, there is an extra 0.01uF (10nF) 
capacitor in that kit.  It has a narrow lead spacing, but can be used to 
solve this problem.  If no KSB2, then do you have a capacitor that you 
can use instead of the one supplied.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2020 5:19 PM, carlos.p wrote:

hi, c 135 10nf cap fitted on the bottom side of the rf board,
between the 2d fastener and transistor
seems sticking out to high, i wonder if someone experienced this,
not soldered in yet, i wait for some possible comments on that,
regards carlos on6cn


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[Elecraft] k2 cap

[carlos.p]

hi, c 135 10nf cap fitted on the bottom side of the rf board,
between the 2d fastener and transistor
seems sticking out to high, i wonder if someone experienced this,
not soldered in yet, i wait for some possible comments on that,
regards carlos on6cn



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S VFO A & B encoder shaft diameter

[KE8G]

Hi Dan,
Thank you very much!  Not able to measure it, as I am at my Texas home and
the radio is at my Ohio home.

73 de Jim - KE8G

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 3:44 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> The encoder shaft is 1/4 inch.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/1/2020 3:18 PM, KE8G wrote:
> > Hi All,
> > I have gone through the manual for a K3 & K3s but can't find the diameter
> > of the VFO's encoder shafts.
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Err TXG message

[Don Wilhelm]

Igor,

Try doing the TX Gain Calibration manually (described in the manual).
It is a bit tedious because it must be done on a band by band basis.

An email to supp...@elecraft.com may get quicker attention than the form 
on the webpage.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2020 4:48 PM, Igor Sokolov wrote:
My K3 S/N 1651 has developed a problem showing ERR TXG message from time 
to time on different bands and 2.5:1 SWR on 28 MHz even into dummy load. 
In fact I think these are two separate unrelated issues, but I might be 
wrong.


TX gain calibration fails for 5 W (does not go above 4.5W) and works OK 
for 50W everywhere but on 28 MHz because of high SWR.


I have filled in the tech support  form on the Elecraft site about a 
week ago but did not receive no response. I understand that is 
associated with COVID problem. So may be someone on the reflector can 
advise me what to do. Sending the radio back to the factory is not an 
option.

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[Elecraft] Err TXG message

[Igor Sokolov]

My K3 S/N 1651 has developed a problem showing ERR TXG message from time 
to time on different bands and 2.5:1 SWR on 28 MHz even into dummy load. 
In fact I think these are two separate unrelated issues, but I might be 
wrong.


TX gain calibration fails for 5 W (does not go above 4.5W) and works OK 
for 50W everywhere but on 28 MHz because of high SWR.


I have filled in the tech support  form on the Elecraft site about a 
week ago but did not receive no response. I understand that is 
associated with COVID problem. So may be someone on the reflector can 
advise me what to do. Sending the radio back to the factory is not an 
option.


73, Igor UA9CDC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S VFO A & B encoder shaft diameter

[Don Wilhelm]

The encoder shaft is 1/4 inch.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2020 3:18 PM, KE8G wrote:

Hi All,
I have gone through the manual for a K3 & K3s but can't find the diameter
of the VFO's encoder shafts.


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[Elecraft] K3S VFO A & B encoder shaft diameter

[KE8G]

Hi All,
I have gone through the manual for a K3 & K3s but can't find the diameter
of the VFO's encoder shafts.

Please advise.

Thanks in advance,
Jim - KE8G
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Jim Brown]

On 7/1/2020 8:26 AM, Charlie T wrote:

I can tell you that super sensitive receiver performance is NOT a
pre-requisite to working LOTS of DX of 50 MHz.


But it CAN be critical to working the weakest stations that you might be 
chasing for an award or a new state, grid, or country.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Fred Jensen]

My, how things have changed!  In the mid 60's in SE Asia, in a mobile 
troposcatter system [AN/MRC-98], we had 4 receivers that used Western 
Electric 416B planar triodes with the amazing NF of 3.7 dB at 460 MHz.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/1/2020 6:39 AM, Jim Miller wrote:

The PR6-10 was the latest released preamp as an accessory for the K3 prior
to the K3s with its built in preamp. They are likely very similar.

Here's the manual for the preamp:

https://ftp.elecraft.com/PR/Manuals%20Downloads/PR6-10%20Owners%20Manual%20Rev%20A.pdf


NF is claimed to be 0.7db typical.

73 and stay safe

jim ab3cv




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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[ab2tc]

Hi,

Here is a quote of my response to the exact same question in 2017:

"Hi,

According to the ARRL review in November, 2dB! Deaf no more.

AB2TC - Knut"

That was from this thread:

https://marc.info/?l=elecraft=149365913804929=2

There was a fairly long follow up discussion that was quite informative
(e.g. the chip used is capable of much better performance in a
manufacturer's test circuit, but in a practical amplifier will do slightly
worse).

AB2TC - Knut




stengrevics wrote
> Does anyone know what the preamp 2 noise figure is on 6 meters?  I have
> not been able to find it in the owner's manual or in Fred's book.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> WA1EAZ



Dave Sublette-2 wrote
> Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
> K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.
> 
> I need to know in order to make system noise figure calculations.  My
> feedline is going to be long (low loss, but long) and I'm trying to
> determine if I will need a preamp mounted at the antenna.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave, K4TO
> __
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> lists+1215531472858-365791@.nabble





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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Charlie T]

I can't speak for E.M.E operations, but from over 60 years of experience on
6M, I can tell you that super sensitive receiver performance is NOT a
pre-requisite to working LOTS of DX of 50 MHz.
When the band is open, either via E or F2 propagation, signals are usually
very "loud".

The only "weak" signals are those at the initial start and end of the
opening.

I remember working a station in Alaska from here in Virginia on SSB, who was
running 10 watts to a balcony mounted Saturn-6 halo, barely 10 feet off the
ground !
He was +10 dB over S nine for over an hour.

SO, don't fret over whether your noise figure is 0.5 dB or 2.5 dB, any
decent modern radio will hear just fine.

73, Charlie k3ICH


>160 countries confirmed on 6M on SSB & CW ONLY, no PSK-31, FT-8' etc. 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Books

[Gary Smith]

I second the use of PDF for finding 
answers. It really helps these old eyes to 
be able to expand the print quickly after 
using the search feature to find the word 
I'm searching for. A searchable PDF does 
this wonderfully.

Another thing that helps me greatly is a 
video say on youtube that has an outline 
and an instructor doing certain things 
with a clear camera view so it's like 
having an instructor right in front of you 
& the equipment so you can mirror image 
what they are doing exactly, to 
understand.

Being able to look on an outline and see 
for example "Adjusting the noise blanker": 
14.45 Meaning at 14 min, 45 seconds, that 
presentation is found on the video.

73, stay well,

Gary
KA1J


> I solved my issues with understanding Elecraft radios, I prefer all
> thee methods of learning to fully know the ins and outs.  What assists
> me most after reading all pertinent parts to my use, is to search a
> downloaded PDF manual to find what I have forgotten and need to
> refresh my memory.   To me I don't  find more books helpful, just the
> manual and use and quick searches.  Oh, and I save the current
> settings frequently in case I really screw up.  Before I restore, I
> use the issue as a learning tool.
> 
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>  On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent:
> Monday, June 29, 2020 9:10 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject:
> Re: [Elecraft] K4 Books
> 
> Skip,
> 
> Fred addressed 3 different learning methods in his books.  First was
> those who learn by reading (I am one of those), 2nd is those who learn
> from examples (expanded reading) and thirdly those who learn from
> hands-on exercises.  Fred addressed all 3 in his books. He did comment
> that there was nothing in his books that was not in the Elecraft
> manual, but his approach to presenting the material was different. 
> That is why his books exceed 200 pages while the Elecraft manuals are
> usually in the vicinity of 100 pages.
> 
> On 6/29/2020 7:37 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> > I found that the value in Fred's book was due to approach.  The K3
> > manual is good ... very good ... and like most all user manuals,
> > takes a "control approach" -- "The SHIFT and WIDTH controls adjust
> > the center frequency and the width of the DSP filtering."  Fred's
> > book explains what the DSP filtering is, the effects the controls
> > have on it, and how it affects operation of the radio.
> > 
> > I'm not suggesting the "control approach" is wrong or bad, user
> > manuals need to explain what each control does.  It's just a
> > different approach to the subject.  I find both very useful.
> > 
> >  From what little I know about the K4, I can't imagine that either a
> >  
> > K3 manual or Fred's K3 book would be of much value for a new K4
> > owner.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> > Sparks NV DM09dn
> > Washoe County
> > 
> > On 6/29/2020 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> >> Tongue planted firmly in cheek --
> >> What? Study the manual?  We are hams and can just push buttons and
> >> turn knobs and see what happens!
> >>
> >> Seriously, I think some hams really do it that way.
> >>
> >> How much more pleasure would they get out of their gear if they
> >> took the time to study the manual.  That is NOT a casual perusal
> >> paging through the manual. That is sitting down in front of the
> >> radio with the manual open and identifying things as well as trying
> >> things out with a dummy load when it involves transmitting.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> On 6/29/2020 7:06 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Maybe study the manual? Worked fine for me with most ham gear I've
> >>> owned, including the K3 and companion products.
> >>>
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s noise figure spec

[Jim Miller]

The PR6-10 was the latest released preamp as an accessory for the K3 prior
to the K3s with its built in preamp. They are likely very similar.

Here's the manual for the preamp:

https://ftp.elecraft.com/PR/Manuals%20Downloads/PR6-10%20Owners%20Manual%20Rev%20A.pdf


NF is claimed to be 0.7db typical.

73 and stay safe

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 7:34 PM Dave Sublette  wrote:

> Does anybody KNOW what the noise figure is for the 50MHz preamp on the
> K3s?  It isn't listed in the specifications.
>
> I need to know in order to make system noise figure calculations.  My
> feedline is going to be long (low loss, but long) and I'm trying to
> determine if I will need a preamp mounted at the antenna.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Harris via Elecraft]

Mike,

You are the only one who can determine this. Everyone else is reduced to 
guessing because they don't have access to your PSU/K2/power lead.


Simple:

Measure the PSU voltage on RX at the PUS terminals.
Measure the PSU voltage on TX set to 100W at the PSU terminals.

Compare both of these with the internal K2 voltage display.

Report the findings.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO



On 30/06/2020 21:34, Mike Kopacki wrote:

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
during receive and transmit.

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

Don, this is what you sent earlier:

“If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the KPA100 from 
the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.  Connect a dummy load to the base 
K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that, check the maximum power from the base K2 - you 
should have at least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.“

To be clear, are you saying to disconnect all 3 connections between the K2 and 
the KPA-100?  If there is 10+ watts out on each band, do I need to realign the 
band pass filters?  And I assume those would be on the K2-RF board, right?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> Watts is Volts X Amps. 
> Fewer Volts means more Amps. More Amps means more work for power supply, 
> leading to fewer Volts.  Fewer Volts means ...( you get the picture). 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 8:37 PM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
>> 
>> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
>> crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
>> during receive and transmit. 
>> 
>> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>> 
>> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
>> out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
 On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Mike,
>>> 
>>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
>>> called APP.
>>> 
>>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
>>> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
>>> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  
>>> The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during 
>>> transmit at 100 watts.
>>> 
>>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of 
>>> the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to 
>>> the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up 
>>> to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto 
>>> those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the 
>>> terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
 
 Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
 
 I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black 
 connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  
 I see nothing else on the inside.
 
 But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
 that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to 
 make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. 
 When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type 
 that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could 
 explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
 
 So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
 configuration of the plug still eludes me.
 
 The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop 
 is .3V, it should read 13.3V at t
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

[Mike Kopacki]

Yep I’m familiar with that formula. 

One of the tests in the assembly instructions was to test the current draw at 
100w. It was 13A. The acceptable range was 13-18A so I thought that was a good 
result. 

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 11:20 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> Watts is Volts X Amps. 
> Fewer Volts means more Amps. More Amps means more work for power supply, 
> leading to fewer Volts.  Fewer Volts means ...( you get the picture). 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 8:37 PM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
>> 
>> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I 
>> crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings 
>> during receive and transmit. 
>> 
>> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>> 
>> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put 
>> out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
 On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Mike,
>>> 
>>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly 
>>> called APP.
>>> 
>>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and 
>>> connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 
>>> wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  
>>> The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during 
>>> transmit at 100 watts.
>>> 
>>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of 
>>> the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to 
>>> the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up 
>>> to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto 
>>> those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the 
>>> terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
 
 Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
 
 I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black 
 connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  
 I see nothing else on the inside.
 
 But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well 
 that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to 
 make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. 
 When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type 
 that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could 
 explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
 
 So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the 
 configuration of the plug still eludes me.
 
 The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop 
 is .3V, it should read 13.3V at t
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[Elecraft] Weird sounds coming from my K1...need a qualified exorcist

[Stephen Roberts]

Sorry. I had the page on my site set to private. The link should work now.

http://w1sfr.com/weird-k1-audio/ 


Here's what happened:

I turned on the radio to get on the air tonight.
It made this sound when I turned it on and after it booted up the sound went 
away.
I plugged in the cable to my paddle and it made the sound.
It makes the sound when I key the radio.
It makes the sound if I activate "tune" on the radio.

Steve
W1SFR


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