Re: [Elecraft] I'm building a personal email list....

2020-06-20 Thread Don Schroder
OPT OUT – KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dave Sublette
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I'm building a personal email list

OPT OUT--- K4TO

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 11:21 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> I am with Jim and Gwen.  I have too many lists right now.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/20/2020 11:03 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote:
> > Ken,
> > Exactly as Gwen Patton said, CONTACT list fine as my email address is
> > also on QRZ but if you are starting a reflector.  Do NOT put my email
> > address in automatically.  IF I don't have the prerogative to OPT-OUT, I
> > want no part of it.
> >
> > Jim, W0EB
> >
> >
> >> I'm confused. Do you mean a personal CONTACT list, or a mailing list
> like
> >> the Elecraft reflector?
> >>
> >> If it's the former, I don't mind if you associate my address with,
> >> say, my
> >> call sign, so you can contact me if you need to. That's because you
> could
> >> look me up on QRZ and find my email address. It's no big deal.
> >>
> >> But if you mean a REFLECTOR, including me in mass mailings, then I'll
> >> have
> >> to say no, thank you. If you want to have a reflector of your own, I
> >> strongly suggest that you make it opt-in, not opt-OUT. I get hundreds
> >> of emails a day, and need to choose the reflectors I subscribe to very
> >> carefully.
> >>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

2020-04-25 Thread Don Schroder
Bob,

Is it safe to run my K2 using Anderson Power Pole connections, and/or RigRunner 
equipment?

For my info, what is the reason for NOT using them?

I’m rewiring, and I want to do it right!

Gunny, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Gmail
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 9:03 AM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

Nuts, just measure the drop between radio and power supply see if it is 
reasonable. Mine is 0.25 volts when transmitting.  I run 14.0 out of supply.
Ray
W8LYJ

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 07:48, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
>
> As to the RigRunner power pole strip.PUT IT IN THE TRASH where it 
> belongs.NEVER NEVER NEVER use a power distribution strip to power a 100 
> watt radio.   ALWAYS connect the radio direct to the power supply terminals.  
>  NO exceptions!
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
>> On 4/25/2020 7:13 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
>> After more checking, I suspect the internal 100W amp is the common factor
>> in the poor keying characteristics I'm seeing and hearing about from my
>> rig.  I am trying to determine if my power supply is doing it's job.
>>
>> I'm using a TenTec 963 switching supply rated at 25A continuous.  At rest
>> the K3S panel display shows 13.6V, with full power key down it dips to 11.5
>> or so.  This seems like a lot.  I'm running the power cable thru a
>> RigRunner Powerpole strip.  If I can dig out another power supply from the
>> packed boxes I can wire the K3S directly to the supply.
>>
>> Is 11.5V at key down enough to cause the slow rise time being reported?
>>
>> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 1500 dummy load recommendations

2019-07-22 Thread Don Schroder
I also have a MFJ-264. I figured if I need a dummy load, go with one that will 
handle the most watts I will ever need.
I don’t have much room, the MFJ-264 id s 1.5KW dry dummy load for 1-650MHz. A 
little smaller than a carton of cigs.
Haven’t used it yet.

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Ignacy
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 7:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 1500 dummy load recommendations

I have MFJ-264 and MFJ-250. Both work. Aside from experiments , both are
gathering dust as there is little purpose of using dummy loads for
solid-state amps.
Ignacy, NO9E



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Re: [Elecraft] To improve customer service (for the Classic gear)

2019-05-23 Thread Don Schroder
Thanks Dave, that was all I needed to hear. Enjoy your vacation, have one for 
me in the Tiki bar!

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dave Van Wallaghen<mailto:d...@w8fgu.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2019 6:46 PM
To: donw...@embarqmail.com<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>; Doug 
Hensley<mailto:w...@hotmail.com>; Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] To improve customer service (for the Classic gear)

Don,

I profusely apologize for the delay and lack of communication. As Don, W3FPR 
pointed out, Don was and I am a part time employee. For a whole host of 
reasons, that I won't go into at this time, the transition has been somewhat 
slow but I am making progress.

The amount of backlog has been overwhelming to an extent. But with Don's help 
we have managed to whittle much of it down.

I am not making excuses for the lack of communication and will improve my 
response as I work through this transition. Poor Don is supposed to be retired 
and still provides excellent support in my absence or heavy workload.

As he noted, my wife and I are on vacation well off of the grid. I do have some 
wifi here (sitting at the Tiki bar as I write this) but I am pretty much off 
the grid until next week.

I do totally love the Elecraft customer service paradigm and will continue to 
strive for that plateau. But it will take me a little time as I still work a 
fulltime profession as well as this part time venture plus family blah blah 
blah.

If I remember right, your rig was number 2 or 3 on my priority list and I will 
get right on it as soon as I return. I appreciate your patience in the interim 
and will be in touch soon.

73,
Dave, W8FGU

On May 23, 2019 13:03:13 Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Doug,

Thanks for the nice words about my service.  When I was doing repairs
for the classic gear, I did not have a staff (like they do in
Watsonville) to send emails when the rig arrives, etc.  I would email
customers when I started work on it, ask any questions about what the
customer wanted when the RSA form was incomplete. and let the customer
know if there were significant delays.
Then when I finish with it, I would send the report to the office and
the sales staff would contact the customer about payment.
It is tough to keep up with emails, repairs and everything else when
there is a backlog of repairs.  So working with a staff of one (me) it
is difficult to keep up with customer communications in addition to
providing prompt repair service.

I was not a contract person, but a part time employee of Elecraft.

I am certain Dave WFGU (who took over for me, and is also a part-time
employee) is having similar problems.  In additions, he also works for
his Fire Department which has him at the station full time for stretches
between 2 and 4 days at a time, and he may not know that his XYL got a
repair package in during those days.  I know he is currently on vacation
and away from home - so any repair parcels are being held for him at the
post office or UPS.

Sorry that we cannot provide the same level of communications that are
available out of Watsonville, but we do the best we can.  I had an
advantage over Dave because I was not working a full time job when I was
doing that legacy repair work.

Some patience and understanding is required, and your tracking numbers
can be relied on - I never found them to be wrong.

Do not send an advance check with your RSA repair.  If a check is
discovered, it must be sent to Watsonville, and will not be cashed until
the repair is concluded.

Also, do not send your classic gear to Watsonville, send it as indicated
in the RSA instructions.  If you do send it to Watsonville, expect an
extra week delay because it must then be shipped to Michigan.
The newer (non-thru-hole gear) IS serviced at Watsonville, but NOT the
classic gear.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/23/2019 1:56 PM, Doug Hensley wrote:
Don, I think that is because the early stuff is farmed out to contract people 
who may not have an email routine going yet.  The K1 & K2's were usually 
handled by Don Wilhelm who just retired.  You might contact Elecraft support 
and ask them who they sent the rig to, when, where, etc.

Don had done all my K1 & K2 work and was just marvelous.  Hopefully Elecraft 
keep that kind of talent at hand.

Cheers,

Doug W5JV



Message: 20
Date: Thu, 23 May 2019 17:17:57 +
From: Don Schroder 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] To improve customer service
Message-ID:
 


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A good morning to all!

I am sitting in my recliner, drinking a cup of java, and doing what I seem to 
do best, thinking,

I?m thinking; when I sent my computer into the Company for repairs (under 
warranty), the Company did something I had never experienced before. They ?GAVE 
ME A WEEKLY UPDATE? ever

Re: [Elecraft] To improve customer service

2019-05-23 Thread Don Schroder
Thanks for the reply Doug,

I think you may have identified what’s happening. I did receive excellent and 
timely help from Elecraft when I had the need for new parts or questions 
answered. I also received excellent support from Don Wilhelm before he retired, 
and have nothing but praise for the service he provided.

Right now, what’s happening with my K2 (serial 7818) is a mystery. I’m not 
getting notifications. I know that the problem I am having is also being 
experienced by others, and a solution appears to be unknown at this time. See 
Dave’s email to the reflector below.

> On Tue, 21 May 2019, at 18:11, Dave Van Wallaghen wrote:
>> Chris,
>>
>> I have worked on a few late model K2'S of late with the exact same problem. 
>> The folks in support are currently looking into it to determine the source 
>> of the problem.
>>
>> My solution was to replace the Control board EEPROM with a known properly 
>> initialized one and everything came back to life. I even discussed this with 
>> Wayne in Dayton. We're looking into whether we have an EEPROM issue or a 
>> possible programming anomaly with the main PIC MCU.
>>
>> I'm currently on vacation with my wife 8 miles off the coast of Belize. I 
>> have limited WIFI but will continue to check in.
>>
>> Stay tuned...
>>

Thank you all for your comments. I’m doing as Dave suggests, staying tuned.
Don, KE0PVQ


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Doug Hensley<mailto:w...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2019 12:57 PM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] To improve customer service

Don, I think that is because the early stuff is farmed out to contract people 
who may not have an email routine going yet.  The K1 & K2's were usually 
handled by Don Wilhelm who just retired.  You might contact Elecraft support 
and ask them who they sent the rig to, when, where, etc.

Don had done all my K1 & K2 work and was just marvelous.  Hopefully Elecraft 
keep that kind of talent at hand.

Cheers,

Doug W5JV

>>>>>
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 23 May 2019 17:17:57 +
From: Don Schroder 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] To improve customer service
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A good morning to all!

I am sitting in my recliner, drinking a cup of java, and doing what I seem to 
do best, thinking,

I?m thinking; when I sent my computer into the Company for repairs (under 
warranty), the Company did something I had never experienced before. They ?GAVE 
ME A WEEKLY UPDATE? every Friday by email or phone call, to tell me the status 
of my computer! Every week, I knew what was happening to my computer, (1) had 
they received it? (2) Were they working on it? (3) What have they found? (4 ) 
What problems have they encountered?  (5) Is it fixed? (6) Have they sent it 
back to me?

On April 8th, I sent my K2 transceiver kit to Elecraft, to look at an issue I 
was having.

On April 10th, (2 days later) Elecraft received my K2. I know this NOT because 
I was notified, but because I researched the tracking number.

On May 7th, (29 days later), Elecraft cashed my deposit check that was sent 
with the K2. I know this NOT because I was notified, but because I researched 
my banking statements.

On May 23rd, (today, 45 days later) I am beginning to think I may never see my 
K2 again!

I?m thinking; wouldn?t it be nice if all Companies kept their customers 
?informed? of a products status when sent in for repairs, like the computer 
Company did?

I?m thinking; this would be a GREAT improvement to customer service!

Don, KE0PVQ
Let the lava flow begin

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10






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[Elecraft] To improve customer service

2019-05-23 Thread Don Schroder
A good morning to all!

I am sitting in my recliner, drinking a cup of java, and doing what I seem to 
do best, thinking,

I’m thinking; when I sent my computer into the Company for repairs (under 
warranty), the Company did something I had never experienced before. They “GAVE 
ME A WEEKLY UPDATE” every Friday by email or phone call, to tell me the status 
of my computer! Every week, I knew what was happening to my computer, (1) had 
they received it? (2) Were they working on it? (3) What have they found? (4 ) 
What problems have they encountered?  (5) Is it fixed? (6) Have they sent it 
back to me?

On April 8th, I sent my K2 transceiver kit to Elecraft, to look at an issue I 
was having.

On April 10th, (2 days later) Elecraft received my K2. I know this NOT because 
I was notified, but because I researched the tracking number.

On May 7th, (29 days later), Elecraft cashed my deposit check that was sent 
with the K2. I know this NOT because I was notified, but because I researched 
my banking statements.

On May 23rd, (today, 45 days later) I am beginning to think I may never see my 
K2 again!

I’m thinking; wouldn’t it be nice if all Companies kept their customers 
“informed” of a products status when sent in for repairs, like the computer 
Company did?

I’m thinking; this would be a GREAT improvement to customer service!

Don, KE0PVQ
Let the lava flow begin

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4?

2019-05-16 Thread Don Schroder
I thought I read that a “modular kit” may be available later. Preassembled 
modules that just plug in, pre-tested and pre-aligned. Guess we’ll know 
tomorrow.

Don, KE0PVQ
K2 SERIAL $7818

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dick Dickinson
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2019 2:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4?

Price of K4..?

As a starting point, consider the "Spring Special" on the K3s/100-F - DX'er
Package (Dual RX, 100W ATU, Hand Mic, Filters, P3, Hat!)
$5,404.95 ($250 Discount)

I still have access to the K4 page (separate tab) on Elecraft.com.  I've
noticed no mention of 'kit,' though the enclosure looks to be along the
lines of the K3 as far as it's construction.

73,
Dick - KA5KKT

-

I did not see a price on the Elecraft site, just the deposit amounts.  Does
anyone know the price or a ball park figure?

phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment Issue

2019-04-27 Thread Don Schroder
Hi Don,

I’m sure you remember that my K2 kit (serial 7818) experienced the exact same 
issue. I went through all of your suggestions without any success.

My K2 is now in the hands of Elecraft Support. I’m hoping they will find a 
solution to my (and John’s) issue.
Just a FYI. Many thanks for all of your help!

73
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 5:01 PM
To: John Wingard
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment Issue

John,

Both frequencies are too low.
You have either too much capacitance or too much inductance in the VFO.
Count the number of times the red wire goes through the center of the T5
core - it should be 16.

Check relays K13, K14 and K15 for solder bridges.

Make sure the core of T5 is yellow.
You might have to try removing a turn from T5 if you can find no other
cause - there have been a few K2s in the long past where the
permeability if the T5 core was higher than expected, and removing 1
turn from T5 corrected things - I have not seen that recently, but I do
mention it 'just in case'.

If all else fails, you may have to "wind your way" through the relay
connections for the VFO Range Select area using the Relay Table on the
Schematic Key page as your guide for the paths through the relays.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/27/2019 5:37 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the quick response. I did check C72 again. It is a 271
> value. I then spread the red turns on T5 as far as I could. I'd say
> they cover about 90+% of the toroid. I put the L30 slug at mid-point
> of travel and measured voltage at R30 and it is still right at 8.37
> V.  While there I checked the frequency at TP1 and it was 8247.90,
> which is considerably lower than the 8913 that you expected.
>
> Next I went up to 7100 and measured the voltage at R30. Still right at
> 8.37 V, no change. Frequency at TP1 @ 7100 was 11558.11.
>
> So, it appears that the frequency at 4000 is not within the expected
> range, and likely not at 7100 as well. Hope this tells you something
> because I'm stumped.
> I've got some plans for this evening so I may not get back on it until
> tomorrow afternoon, but if you've got any more things for me to try I
> will do them then.
>
> John, WB4GLJ
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 1:57 PM Don Wilhelm  > wrote:
>
> John,
>
> That high voltage is trying to reduce the capacity of the varactors.
> Which means there is either too much capacity or too much
> inductance in
> the circuit.
>
> Check the value of C72 first - it should be marked "271". Then set
> the
> L30 slug to about mid-position and spread the red turns of T5
> enough so
> the starting and ending turns are adjacent.  What is the voltage when
> tuned to 4000 kHz?  Measure the frequency at TP1 - it should be near
> 8913 kHz.
>
> Then change to 40 meters - 7100 kHz - What is the R30 voltage and
> what
> is the VFO frequency measured at TP1.
>
> The answer to those questions will help in determining what to do
> next.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/27/2019 1:32 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> > Working on my 2nd K2 (S/N 7869) and have run into a problem with
> the VCO
> > alignment. I'm getting a constant 8.37 V at R30  at 4.000 MHz..
> I cannot
> > change it with the full range of L30. Correct type inductor is
> installed at
> > L30.  Dropping the VFO down to 3.500 doesn't change it either. I
> have gone
> > back through the archives and read just about every post
> concerning this
> > problem but nothing I have tried has made any difference. I have
> double
> > checked all correct parts placements and orientations, re-flowed all
> > connections in the quadrant of the board around the VCO section.
> T5 is
> > wound as per the manual (from the Toroid Guy) and installed
> correctly. I
> > have tried both spreading and compressing the turns on T5 with
> no change
> > either way.
> >
> > Regarding the thermistor board,  I have 4.18 V on pin 5 of U6.
> >
> > Test in the previous section were within specs:
> >
> > 4 MHz Oscillator Cal using CAL FCTR was 12099.61 and confirmed
> with an
> > external counter.
> > Range of the PLL reference oscillator: 12099.61 - 12086.01 =
> 13.59 kHz
> > VCO oscillator test: 8162.60 MHz
> >
> > I'm about out of ideas at this point. What should I start
> checking next?
> >
> > Thanks for any help!
> >
> > 73 de John, WB4GLJ
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] Announcing W8FGU Servicing Elecraft's Classic Line ofProducts

2019-02-19 Thread Don Schroder

Welcome aboard, Dave!

I have been working closely with Don Wilhelm while assembling my K2 (serial 
7818). We have had quite a few burps,
but with Don’s help I am getting closer to completion. Then I will be able to 
make MY FIRST QSO as a new ham! The
K2 is my first and only ham radio, and I am excited to finish the build and 
have a working station.

We are attempting to work through a difficult problem right now. I could 
include you in email conversations I have
with Don, if you would like, to keep you in the loop.

Again, welcome to the group, and I look forward to working with Don AND YOU.
Thanks, and 73
Don Schroder, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dave Van Wallaghen<mailto:d...@w8fgu.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 4:29 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] Announcing W8FGU Servicing Elecraft's Classic Line 
ofProducts

Announcing W8FGU Services, LLC now providing build, repair and alignment
services for the Elecraft Classic Line of
transceivers and accessories as well as the mini-module line.

Hi fellow Elecraft list members, this is Dave, W8FGU and I’m announcing
(with Elecraft’s blessing) that I am now
providing support services for the Elecraft Classic Line of products
(K2, K1, KX1, associated transceivers and accessories)
and their mini-module line of products.

As you may or may not know, our legendary guru Don Wilhelm, W3FPR is
retiring this month from providing these
services for the past 20 years or so. Although Don is retiring from the
physical support of these fine products, he has
assured all of us that he will continue to provide guidance and advice
via the Elecraft email reflector for the foreseeable
future.

Through Don’s guidance and encouragement and the numerous discussions
with Don and senior management at
Elecraft over the last few weeks, I have decided to continue Don’s
legacy in the Elecraft support arena. Don has been
gracious enough to share with me his business model, pricing, policies
and procedures so that I may continue to try and
provide the same services he has provided for so many years. I am
committed to providing the same high quality and
timely service at the same standard Don has set during his tenure.

As this is an ambitious venture on my part, Don has assured me that he
is only a phone call or email away for when I
need his assistance. And of course, I have the complete support of the
fine folks at Elecraft. It is with their spirit and
support that we believe we can carry Don’s legacy of servicing these
fine products of Elecraft engineering, well into the
future.

Elecraft has always been more than supportive of my enclosure business
since 2006. In that time, I have sold hundreds
of poly-carbonate and acrylic enclosures for their mini-module line of
products and dust covers for the KX3, PX3 and
KX2. These are all produced by hand in a modest workshop in my basement.
I have been invited and worked in their
booth in Dayton for the past 12 years. I’ve enjoyed a great working
relationship with Eric, Wayne and many of the sales
and support staff and look forward to continuing that relationship with
this new venture.

As many of you know, I am still working full time as a Lieutenant (fire
fighter/medic) for the Brownstown Fire
Department here in SE Michigan. I will be able to retire in a little
over two years. But my background has been technical
since high school. My grandfather (the original W8FGU SK) taught me
about ham radio as a child. He passed away when I was a teenager, but he
encouraged me to continue my education and I obtained an Associates in
Electrical Engineering in 1982 and soon began a career as an electronic
tech that turned into a 20-year programming and IT career in the PC
software development arena. Although I have been a firefighter since the
age of 14, my full-time career did not start until October of 2000.

With that said, blowing off the dust on my tech skills and with support
of Don and all the folks at Elecraft, I am very
confident I will carry on the high support standard that Don has
established well into the future and for the life of these
products. Please contact me at this email address for any comments,
questions or concerns. Also please visit my
website: www.w8fgu.com for details of the services I provide and more
details in how to contact me.

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Dave W8FGU
(This announcement has been posted with the expressed permission of Eric
(list moderator) and Elecraft management)

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Re: [Elecraft] whats a updated K3 called?

2019-01-11 Thread Don Schroder
Hi all,



It’s very obvious to me. Elecraft began with a K1, then “updated” to a K2 
(which I am building). Then they “updated” to a K3, and all the new mods that 
go on it. So, it’s very obvious to me, that the new “updated” radio should be 
called (ready for this?), THE K4 !



It naturally follows with their earlier naming scheme.



Don, KE0PVQ



Sent from Mail for Windows 10




From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Rich 
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2019 8:54:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] whats a updated K3 called?

OK I thought this was just a fun thing, I did not know it was actually a
serious thing.

Frankly a K3 is a K3 and a K3S is a K3S.   The difference in each radio
can vary wildly based on what the owner has installed in the radio as
far as options go.   That is the bottom line.   To me the K3S options
that are available for the K3 are nothing more than additional options.

As for making a used purchase, the SN is critical.

Rich

On 1/11/2019 9:30 AM, John K9UWA wrote:
> One would think that K3s represents multiple K3 radios. As in Plural of K3.
>
> I am sure that it causes some confusion to many who read the Elecraft 
> reflector or
> other places where the radios are discussed.
>
> I do thank Wayne and Eric for a list that says. The new radio has the 
> following
> differences to the K3 radio. As well as the portions of the K3 that can not be
> upgraded to equal the new K3S radio.
>
> John k9uwa
> John Goller, K9UWA & Jean Goller, N9PXF
> Antique Radio Restorations
> k9...@arrl.net
> Visit our Web Site at:
> http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
> 4836 Ranch Road
> Leo, IN 46765
> USA
> 1-260-637-6426
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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>
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[Elecraft] New web pages

2018-10-19 Thread Don Schroder
Hi,

I am assembling a K2 kit, serial #7818. I decided that I want to order the KIO2 
RS-232 Interface and Aux 
I/0
  so I clicked on the link. It took me to this link; 
https://elecraftcom.myshopify.com/admin/auth/login . So, I then entered my 
email & password, and it created my store! I don’t have a store!

Can’t order the interface, thought you’d like to know.

73, Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Re: [Elecraft] 15% off on KE7X print books at Lulu

2018-10-02 Thread Don Schroder
Woops. Not valid on ebooks, I ordered the PDF version! My bad.
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Don
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 12:27 PM
To: Cady, Fred; Elecraft 
list
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 15% off on KE7X print books at Lulu

Fred,

Don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but getting message “ The coupon you entered 
does not apply to the items in your cart.” when ordering.

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Cady, Fred
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 10:17 AM
To: Elecraft list
Subject: [Elecraft] 15% off on KE7X print books at Lulu

www.lulu.com  has a 15% discount for print books and 
calendars active until Oct 4.  Enter the code FIFTEEN when you order a KE7X 
book at lulu.

Cheers,

Fred KE7X


For all KE7X books, see www.ke7x.com

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Re: [Elecraft] 15% off on KE7X print books at Lulu

2018-10-02 Thread Don Schroder
Fred,

Don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but getting message “ The coupon you entered 
does not apply to the items in your cart.” when ordering.

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Cady, Fred
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 10:17 AM
To: Elecraft list
Subject: [Elecraft] 15% off on KE7X print books at Lulu

www.lulu.com  has a 15% discount for print books and 
calendars active until Oct 4.  Enter the code FIFTEEN when you order a KE7X 
book at lulu.

Cheers,

Fred KE7X


For all KE7X books, see www.ke7x.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-29 Thread Don Schroder
Don,

I’m now confused. I did measure the resistance at the source of Q19, which 
measured 280 ohms.

Will voltage pass through a crystal only when it oscillates? I got excited when 
I saw the voltage on
both sides of L31 was 7.5 volts, but the voltage on both sides of diode D18 was 
zero.

I very much appreciate your help. I apologize if I am asking dumb questions, 
I’m trying to teach
this 75 year old brain. I’ll rotate the VFO and see what happens. I have much 
to learn!

Thanks much!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2018 3:38 PM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

Don,

The voltage is likely coming through RP2 and making its way through
L31.  That is not the problem.
VFO through a 10 or 12 kHz range.  It should vary.

When the crystal oscillates, you should obtain a frequency at TP3.  That
is your next challenge.
As I said in the last email, measure the resistance at the source of
Q19. It should be near 270 ohms.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2018 4:02 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I finally got some time to check your suggestions. D18 is oriented
> properly, and it looks like C84 & C85 are marked 121 (kind of hard to
> read since they are installed). So I thought I would check voltages
> for the PLL Reference Oscillator circuit. Didn’t take long to find 7.5
> volts going into X1 (the crystal) and 0 volts coming out! I resoldered
> the  pins to ensure no cold joints, and still 0 volts coming out. Do
> crystals go bad, or is it possible I burned it up by too much heat on
> the casing when grounding it? I think I will need a new one before I
> can check the BFO.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don, KE0PVQ
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-29 Thread Don Schroder
Hi Don,

I finally got some time to check your suggestions. D18 is oriented properly, 
and it looks like C84 & C85 are marked 121 (kind of hard to read since they are 
installed). So I thought I would check voltages for the PLL Reference 
Oscillator circuit. Didn’t take long to find 7.5 volts going into X1 (the 
crystal) and 0 volts coming out! I resoldered the  pins to ensure no cold 
joints, and still 0 volts coming out. Do crystals go bad, or is it possible I 
burned it up by too much heat on the casing when grounding it? I think I will 
need a new one before I can check the BFO.

Thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 7:34 PM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

Don,

It seems you are having trouble with both the PLL Reference Oscillator
and the BFO (TP2 should be near 4915kHz).
The VFO TP1 is apparently oscillating if you have a frequency of
4918.88, but that frequency is not correct.

Tackle the PLL Reference first.
OK, the PLL Reference Oscillator is not oscillating for one reason or
another.  Chek all the components in the circuit for proper values and
good soldering.  You apparently can follow the schematic, if for no
other reason than to identify components in a circuit - that is helpful
information.
Make certain D18 is installed with the proper orientation, and that C84
and C85 are 120pF (marked 121).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/27/2018 8:07 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> All three test points are not zeros. TP1 reads a solid 4918.88, TP2
> reads between flickering 267 & 289, TP3 reads all zeros.
>
> The resistance from the source of Q19 to ground is 280 ohms.
>
> I did make an interesting discovery when I took voltages again.  U4,
> pin 5 (SDO) is 0 volts, pin 7 (SCK) is 4.8 volts. U5, pin 1 (SCK) is
> 4.8 volts, pin 2 (SDO) is 0 volts. These pins are just opposite what
> they should be (what does SDO and SCK represent?). Looks like
> something that is directional got switched?
>
> Sounds like we are making progress, but still a possible PLL problem?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don, KE0PVQ
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, September 27, 2018 4:11 PM
> *To: *Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>;
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues
>
> Don,
>
> While in CAL FCTR, try the probe in TP3 and TP1 and TP2.  If you have a
>
> zero reading in all 3 places, you most likely have a bad probe.
>
> Yes you might have a PLL problem, but that is not certain yet. One quick
>
> check is to measure the resistance from the source of Q19 to ground.  If
>
> it is high or infinite, check the leads of RFC14 like you did for
>
> RFC16.  The normal resistance is a bit more than 270 ohms.
>
> 73,
>
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/27/2018 4:41 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Don,
>
> >
>
> > Thank you for the excellent advice! I went to the bottom of the board
>
> > and checked the resistance between the ends of RFC16. It was infinite,
>
> > so I rewound RFC16 and ensured the leads were cleaned good. After
>
> > reinstalling, I now have 4.~ votes at U6 pin 5, and 8.~ at pin 8. Pin
>
> > 8 of the Thermistor Board has 8.~ volts, too.
>
> >
>
> > Now, when I select CAL FCTR and enable the frequency counter, the
>
> > counter shows 0.00. I believe this tells me there is a problem
>
> > with the PLL Reference Oscillator. I will continue to look at those
>
> > components. Any other suggestions?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks!
>
> >
>
> > Don, KE0PVQ
>
> >
>
> > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>
> > Windows 10
>
> >
>
> > *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
>
> > *Sent: *Thursday, September 27, 2018 1:34 PM
>
> > *To: *Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>;
>
> > elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
>
> > *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues
>
> >
>
> > Don,
>
> >
>
> > You apparently have a problem with the thermistor board - or the 8 volts
>
> >
>
> > to it.
>
> >
>
> > A "voltage rail" are those PC traces that carry v

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-27 Thread Don Schroder
Don,

All three test points are not zeros. TP1 reads a solid 4918.88, TP2 reads 
between flickering 267 & 289, TP3 reads all zeros.
The resistance from the source of Q19 to ground is 280 ohms.

I did make an interesting discovery when I took voltages again.  U4, pin 5 
(SDO) is 0 volts, pin 7 (SCK) is 4.8 volts. U5, pin 1 (SCK) is 4.8 volts, pin 2 
(SDO) is 0 volts. These pins are just opposite what they should be (what does 
SDO and SCK represent?). Looks like something that is directional got switched?

Sounds like we are making progress, but still a possible PLL problem?

Thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 4:11 PM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

Don,

While in CAL FCTR, try the probe in TP3 and TP1 and TP2.  If you have a
zero reading in all 3 places, you most likely have a bad probe.
Yes you might have a PLL problem, but that is not certain yet. One quick
check is to measure the resistance from the source of Q19 to ground.  If
it is high or infinite, check the leads of RFC14 like you did for
RFC16.  The normal resistance is a bit more than 270 ohms.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/27/2018 4:41 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> Thank you for the excellent advice! I went to the bottom of the board
> and checked the resistance between the ends of RFC16. It was infinite,
> so I rewound RFC16 and ensured the leads were cleaned good. After
> reinstalling, I now have 4.~ votes at U6 pin 5, and 8.~ at pin 8. Pin
> 8 of the Thermistor Board has 8.~ volts, too.
>
> Now, when I select CAL FCTR and enable the frequency counter, the
> counter shows 0.00. I believe this tells me there is a problem
> with the PLL Reference Oscillator. I will continue to look at those
> components. Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don, KE0PVQ
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, September 27, 2018 1:34 PM
> *To: *Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>;
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues
>
> Don,
>
> You apparently have a problem with the thermistor board - or the 8 volts
>
> to it.
>
> A "voltage rail" are those PC traces that carry voltage to various parts
>
> of the circuit.
>
> In the K2, there is one for 12 volts, another for 8 volts and another
>
> for 5 volts.
>
> On the schematic they are labeled "12V", "8A" and "5V" respectively.
>
> The main 8 volt and 5 volt regulators are on the Control Board. You will
>
> find an "5B" voltage rail at the output of U8 on the RF Board and the
>
> "8B" voltage is sourced at the output side of RFC16.
>
> If you do not have 8 volts at the thermistor board pin 8, then
>
> investigate the stripping and tinning of the RFC16 leads.
>
> Once you have 8 volts at the thermistor board (RP3 position) pin 8, then
>
> recheck the voltage at U6 pin 5 - it should be quite close to 4 volts.
>
> 73,
>
> Don W3FPR
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-27 Thread Don Schroder
Don,

Thank you for the excellent advice! I went to the bottom of the board and 
checked the resistance between the ends of RFC16. It was infinite, so I rewound 
RFC16 and ensured the leads were cleaned good. After reinstalling, I now have 
4.~ votes at U6 pin 5, and 8.~ at pin 8. Pin 8 of the Thermistor Board has 8.~ 
volts, too.

Now, when I select CAL FCTR and enable the frequency counter, the counter shows 
0.00. I believe this tells me there is a problem with the PLL Reference 
Oscillator. I will continue to look at those components. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 1:34 PM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

Don,

You apparently have a problem with the thermistor board - or the 8 volts
to it.
A "voltage rail" are those PC traces that carry voltage to various parts
of the circuit.
In the K2, there is one for 12 volts, another for 8 volts and another
for 5 volts.
On the schematic they are labeled "12V", "8A" and "5V" respectively.
The main 8 volt and 5 volt regulators are on the Control Board. You will
find an "5B" voltage rail at the output of U8 on the RF Board and the
"8B" voltage is sourced at the output side of RFC16.
If you do not have 8 volts at the thermistor board pin 8, then
investigate the stripping and tinning of the RFC16 leads.
Once you have 8 volts at the thermistor board (RP3 position) pin 8, then
recheck the voltage at U6 pin 5 - it should be quite close to 4 volts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/27/2018 1:43 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> Board U6 pin 5
>
> Thank you for the suggestions! The DC voltage at RF Board U6 pin 5 is
> 0 volts. In fact, all pins of U6, except pin 6, are 0 volts. Pin 6 is
> less than 1 volt.
>
> I saw a bridge between C96 and RFC10, the schematic shows these two
> components connecting together, so that should be ok. I’m still
> looking for bridges.
>
> Could you elaborate a little on the ^voltage rail*? How do I identify
> the rail on a schematic, or can I? Which component is the 8 volt
> regulator? I feel I should know the answers to these questions, I must
> be having a senior moment. Your help and advice is much appreciarted!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don, KE0PVQ
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, September 27, 2018 11:01 AM
> *To: *Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>;
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues
>
> Don,
>
> First check the DC voltage at RF Board U6 pin 5 - it should be 4 volts
>
> (or 1/2 the 8 volt regulator output voltage).  If it is not correct, you
>
> have a problem with the thermistor board - most likely a solder bridge.
>
> You should have 8 volts at the thermistor board pin 8.  If that is not
>
> correct, look carefully for solder bridges.  That 8 volts comes directly
>
> from the 8 volt regulator voltage rail.
>
> It does sound like you have a problem with the PLL Reference Oscillator,
>
> but your voltage measurements on the thermistor board pins should be
>
> investigated first before drawing any other conclusions.
>
> Make sure you have good results with the PLL range tests just after that.
>
> The exact frequency of the 4 MHz Oscillator is not critical at this
>
> point - for now it only substantiates that the oscillator is working. If
>
> you put a probe on C22, it will pull the frequency.  If your frequency
>
> counter is sufficiently accurate, wait until you have a good frequency
>
> at TP1, and then measure the frequency with both the counter and the
>
> internal counter probe using CAL FCTR. Adjust C22 so CAL FCTR frequency
>
> is the same as your external counter.
>
> I do not know the accuracy of your counter, but mine is accurate to 10
>
> exp-9 and I can set C22 with it for good K2 Dial Calibration.  There are
>
> other methods for setting C22 that do not depend on the accuracy of your
>
> frequency counter.  When you can receive WWV at 10 or better 15 MHz,
>
> look at my website www.w3fpr.com article on K2 Dial Calibration to
>
> accurately set C22 and achieve good K2 dial calibration.
>
> 73,
>
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/26/2018 8:14 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
>
> > Hi folks,
>
> >
>
> > Got to the subject location on my K2 k

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-27 Thread Don Schroder
Don,
Board U6 pin 5
Thank you for the suggestions! The DC voltage at RF Board U6 pin 5 is 0 volts. 
In fact, all pins of U6, except pin 6, are 0 volts. Pin 6 is less than 1 volt.

I saw a bridge between C96 and RFC10, the schematic shows these two components 
connecting together, so that should be ok. I’m still looking for bridges.

Could you elaborate a little on the ^voltage rail*? How do I identify the rail 
on a schematic, or can I? Which component is the 8 volt regulator? I feel I 
should know the answers to these questions, I must be having a senior moment. 
Your help and advice is much appreciarted!

Thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Don Wilhelm<mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 11:01 AM
To: Don Schroder<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

Don,

First check the DC voltage at RF Board U6 pin 5 - it should be 4 volts
(or 1/2 the 8 volt regulator output voltage).  If it is not correct, you
have a problem with the thermistor board - most likely a solder bridge.

You should have 8 volts at the thermistor board pin 8.  If that is not
correct, look carefully for solder bridges.  That 8 volts comes directly
from the 8 volt regulator voltage rail.

It does sound like you have a problem with the PLL Reference Oscillator,
but your voltage measurements on the thermistor board pins should be
investigated first before drawing any other conclusions.

Make sure you have good results with the PLL range tests just after that.

The exact frequency of the 4 MHz Oscillator is not critical at this
point - for now it only substantiates that the oscillator is working. If
you put a probe on C22, it will pull the frequency.  If your frequency
counter is sufficiently accurate, wait until you have a good frequency
at TP1, and then measure the frequency with both the counter and the
internal counter probe using CAL FCTR.  Adjust C22 so CAL FCTR frequency
is the same as your external counter.

I do not know the accuracy of your counter, but mine is accurate to 10
exp-9 and I can set C22 with it for good K2 Dial Calibration.  There are
other methods for setting C22 that do not depend on the accuracy of your
frequency counter.  When you can receive WWV at 10 or better 15 MHz,
look at my website www.w3fpr.com article on K2 Dial Calibration to
accurately set C22 and achieve good K2 dial calibration.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2018 8:14 PM, Don Schroder wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> Got to the subject location on my K2 kit #7818, and am having some 
> difficulties with the tests. My frequency counter, when touched to the left 
> side of trimmer capacitor C22, reads 3999.98 on the LCD. This makes me 
> believe there is no problem with the frequency counter probe that I assembled.
>
> On page 63, under *4 MHz Oscillator Calibration,  I selected CAL FCTR, and 
> the LCD displays a rapidly changing frequency between 185.~ to 188.~. It does 
> not show a frequency of 12090 kHz  suggested by the manual.  This tells me I 
> have a problem with the PLL Reference Oscillator (since the frequency counter 
> probe appeared to be ok). I then decided to check voltages, and discovered 
> that I am missing some +5v signals from U4 and U5.
>
> Any suggestions on where to look next? I’d like to trace the 5v signals, but 
> I don’t see how to do that using the schematics. I did measure voltages on 
> the 8 pins of the Thermistor Board, they were all 0 volts! That didn’t seem 
> right, either.
>
> Appreciate any suggestions! Thanks!
> Don, KE0PVQ
>
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>
> __
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> Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com
>

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[Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II issues

2018-09-26 Thread Don Schroder
Hi folks,

Got to the subject location on my K2 kit #7818, and am having some difficulties 
with the tests. My frequency counter, when touched to the left side of trimmer 
capacitor C22, reads 3999.98 on the LCD. This makes me believe there is no 
problem with the frequency counter probe that I assembled.

On page 63, under *4 MHz Oscillator Calibration,  I selected CAL FCTR, and the 
LCD displays a rapidly changing frequency between 185.~ to 188.~. It does not 
show a frequency of 12090 kHz  suggested by the manual.  This tells me I have a 
problem with the PLL Reference Oscillator (since the frequency counter probe 
appeared to be ok). I then decided to check voltages, and discovered that I am 
missing some +5v signals from U4 and U5.

Any suggestions on where to look next? I’d like to trace the 5v signals, but I 
don’t see how to do that using the schematics. I did measure voltages on the 8 
pins of the Thermistor Board, they were all 0 volts! That didn’t seem right, 
either.

Appreciate any suggestions! Thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] P3 Panadapter

2018-09-18 Thread Don Schroder
Morning!

I have a kit K2 s/n 7818 that is about 2/3rds complete. I’m a newbie and this 
is my first radio. I’ve been  looking at additions for my non-existent ham 
shack and am curious about the Elecraft P3. Looking at the advertising, I see 
it is for the K3 & K3s, and other radios.

Hence, my question. How many of you consider the P3 to be a must have, and can 
it be used with a K2 transceiver? As a side note, what other optional equipment 
to the K2 would you consider necessary?

Thanks, and 73!
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Kit Issue with tuning

2018-07-13 Thread Don Schroder
Hi Don W

I’m not sure if I should post progress or regression! Yes, I had turned the 
tuner while measuring the voltage, it did not change the voltage. So I took it 
all apart again and went over the Panel & Control boards with a magnifier and 
pick. Didn’t even heat up the soldering iron, just examined.

Results? The tuner NOW moves the frequency, but not ALWAYS, just most of the 
time. Biggest problem now is, the tuner moves the frequency ONLY DOWN, even 
when turning it clockwise! (Which I assume should RAISE the frequency).

With sporadic tuning (most of the time down, sometimes no change), and only 
going down and rarely up, I wonder if this is a result of a loose component or 
loose pin? I think my next move will be to retouch pins with a hot iron, and 
see what change that brings.

Am I moving forward, or spinning my wheels?

Thanks for your input! It IS greatly appreciated!

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] K2 Kit Issue with tuning

2018-07-12 Thread Don Schroder
Hi all,

I am very happy with my K2 kit. I am taking my time and being very careful NOT 
to have any solder bridges. So I was disappointed & depressed when I discovered 
the tuning knob does NOT advance or reduce frequency, it just stays on the 
beginning band frequency when the knob is spun.

I also noticed the menu button, when pressed multiple times, does NOT advance 
to the next menu item, going in either direction. Related issue?

So, if anyone has suggestions on where to look or start looking, I would very 
much appreciate any ideas. All resistances checked out ok, too.

Many thanks!
Don, KE0PVQ

p.s. I want to learn about vanity call signs, why would I want one? What do 
they represent? How do you pick one? Yep, I’m a new-bee, but an old fart at 75!

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] K2 encoder subassembly issue

2018-07-03 Thread Don Schroder
Hi folks!

Had another whoopsie with my K2 Serial #7818. Number 4 wire, that attaches the 
encoder subassembly to the front panel, had a soldering pad disintegrate. I 
found this when I
was testing, and saw that the encoder was not changing the frequency up or 
down. I am assuming that the wire not being soldered would cause the encoder to 
fail the test.

I’ve had my kit together and apart multiple times now. I may have caused the 
malfunction by separating the boards too many times? Regardless, I’ve contacted 
Elecraft Parts
and requested a new encoder subassembly PCB. Hope I can get just the board and 
not have to buy a whole subassembly!

Other than that issue, I’m thrilled with my kit, and excited to continue 
populating the RF board. Do you think I should continue, or should I wait for 
the new PCB and complete
the testing before continuing? I guess that is one of those “Are we there, 
yet?” questions!

Don,KE0PVQ

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[Elecraft] k2 kit progress - Woops! Did I really do that?

2018-06-27 Thread Don Schroder
Even a perfectionist can screw up now and then, right?

I installed P1, a 20 pin male, right angle pin connector, to the RF board, on 
the FRONT side, when the instructions clearly state
“Position 20-pin male right-angle connector P1 on the bottom of the board.” Ok, 
I can deal with the whoop-see, just
DE solder, pull it out, and install a new right-angle connector. O’boy, DE 
solder trick didn’t go so well, P1 ended up in pieces.

No problem, I have other right-angle pin connectors, just use them! But, after 
installing, the replacements are about 1/16” shorter
in length, and don’t go into J1 as far. Hello Huston, NOW we have a problem! 
The front panel is NOT getting any power!

I need a new P1, part # E620029. Other than that, the build is going great! Do 
I need to send an email to Elecraft parts department?

Comments are appreciated! Be kind, please, Thanks!

Don, KE0PVQ  (thinking about a vanity call sign, suggestions?)

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 kit build problem

2018-06-25 Thread Don Schroder
Ok, I’m confused. But I have an excuse (I’m old). I remeasured and both pins 
were > 20K! Problem solved it’s self.

I should have known that touching the probe tips would change the resistance, 
because I have a lot of resistance especially
When the wife “tells me” tp do something! I also played taps at gravesites for 
three years while in high school.

Thank you all for your kind words. I’m excited. A great radio (K2), a great 
reflector, and great friends a-coming!

So, no problem so far (Yea ).

Don, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dave Sublette<mailto:k4to.d...@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2018 5:18 PM
To: donandde...@hotmail.com<mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 kit build problem

Hello Don,

Welcome to ham radio and to the Elecraft Family.  I am not an official or 
employee of Elecraft.  Watch for an answer from Don, W3FPR.  He is an official 
Elecraft repair guy and he knows what he is doing.

I don't want to insult your intelligence or experience, but I have to ask that 
you make sure you are not touching the metal parts of the probe tips when you 
make these measurements. Your body resistance will lower the readings, 
especially if they are supposed to be more than 20K.  Also, look for solder 
bridges or splashes that aren't supposed to be there.

This is a great reflector and someone will have the answer.  I built a K2 in 
2004 and it is a great rig.

I am 76 and an retired Electronics Engineer.  I was in the Navy from 61-65 as a 
CT M brancher.

I am associated with the local chapter of the Marine Corps League as I play 
TAPS for the military honors at graveside services for veterans.

Sempre Fi!

Dave, K4TO

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 5:57 PM Don Schroder 
mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Greetings!

I am new to ham radio. I studied and passed the “extra” class. I am now 
building my first radio, a K2. This is my first post to the reflector, too.

I am on page 38 of my build (serial 7818) and just completed the resistance 
checks. Two of the test points have a lower resistance value than suggested.

U1 pin 4 measured 15.06K, should be > 20K
U1 pin 28 measured 5.06K, should be > 20K

I’m heading for the schematics to debug. Any suggestions on where to look would 
be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

Don, KE0PVQ
(a 75 year old career Marine, retired & disabled)

Sent from 
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[Elecraft] K2 kit build problem

2018-06-25 Thread Don Schroder
Greetings!

I am new to ham radio. I studied and passed the “extra” class. I am now 
building my first radio, a K2. This is my first post to the reflector, too.

I am on page 38 of my build (serial 7818) and just completed the resistance 
checks. Two of the test points have a lower resistance value than suggested.

U1 pin 4 measured 15.06K, should be > 20K
U1 pin 28 measured 5.06K, should be > 20K

I’m heading for the schematics to debug. Any suggestions on where to look would 
be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

Don, KE0PVQ
(a 75 year old career Marine, retired & disabled)

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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