Re: [Elecraft] NiMh batteries How do I test?

2014-08-18 Thread KB9WMJ
Measure the amps you are charging them with, and charge them at C/10, where
C is the capacity of them.  Say you have 1200mA NiMh batteries, charge them
at 120mA overnight.  You can charge up to C/1, but be careful not to
overheat the cells.  You should be able to hold them in your hand.

Then put some sort of a load on the batteries, and measure the voltage on
each individual cell.  As they discharge, the weakest cell will drop in
voltage faster than the rest.

Keith KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2014 6:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] NiMh batteries How do I test?


I have 8 NiMh batteries and charged them for 16 hours.  Charge lasts 5
minutes before KX3 goes dead. Minimum voltage is set for 8.4V. with a 13.6
volts 50 amp DX Astron supply max charge voltage get up to 10.6 VDC says my
KX3. When checking the voltage independantly on each cell they all give me
the same reading on my battery tester saying they are good so the tester is
full of it.

How do I test these cells for find my bad one or 2?

-- 
Jim K9TF

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Fan Replacement

2014-08-16 Thread KB9WMJ
The early K3 fan was a Elina HDF6015L-12LB

Here are it's specs:
Airflow: 10.5 cmf
Noise: 21 dB
Speed: 2800 RPM 
Static Pressure: 1.5mm
Current: 75 mA

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1600097.pdf

Keith KB9WMJ

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Word n9vx@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 4:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Fan Replacement


Has anyone replaced the K3 fans with a quieter model? If so, please provide
the model number and source.

The first K3 I built the fans were very quite, but the last one I build was
pretty loud and sold it. I am thinking of getting another if I can find a
quieter fan.

Please note: I am not looking for comments that your fans are quite or
loud, don't want to clog up the list. I know what fans they did use and
what model they use now (as of a year ago), so do not need that info.

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach

2014-07-15 Thread KB9WMJ
Well, I know there is an AA size Li-ion battery, as I have them in my You 
Kits FG-01 Antenna Analyzer.  It lists the 18650, but I see that's a 19 x 
67mm battery.

14500 is 14 x 50mm, so it is the AA sized one.

I know I have used the 18650's as well, as they have lots of current


- Original Message - 
From: John Payne payn...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach


Unfortunately, those are NOT AA size cells.  18650 cells are much larger.

See http://happypics.zapto.org/displayimage.php?pid=3026

73 de W4CWZ

On 7/13/2014 5:58 PM, kb9...@wi.rr.com wrote:
 Use a better AA battery (3.7V 4.9AH Li-ion):
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/181411959514



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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach

2014-07-13 Thread KB9WMJ
Use a better AA battery (3.7V 4.9AH Li-ion):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181411959514

and battery holder:
http://www.utmfg.com/category/BAT-AA.html

Use 4 of them for 14.8V.

Keith
KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: hb9brj hb9...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach


Using 8 internal eneloop cells, I measured battery voltage versus current 
(as
shown on the KX3 display) during RX and different TX pwr levels, created an
Excel scatter chart and fitted a linear trend line. The result: 1.15 Ohms,
R^2 = 0.95.

A single eneloop cell has around 0.035 Ohms of internal resistance (measured
with a 4-connector battery DC resistance meter forcing current pulses thru
the cell under test).

My conclusion: 25% of the 1.15 Ohms are due to the 8 cells, 75% originate in
the battery holder and additional wiring.

Markus HB9BRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach

2014-07-13 Thread KB9WMJ
The 4.2V is the maximum open circuit voltage.  If you are that worried about 
it only use 3  Li-ion batteries.

Adding a couple of 5A diodes in series is a viable option as well, plus it 
adds the reverse voltage protection.

Keith
KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: Chip Stratton c...@strattonfamily.us
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach


The 3.7V rating is its voltage at about 50% state of charge. That type of
Li-ion cell has a fully charged voltage of 4.2V.  Four of them would be too
much for a KX3.

Chip
Ae5ka

On Sunday, July 13, 2014, kb9...@wi.rr.com wrote:

 Use a better AA battery (3.7V 4.9AH Li-ion):
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/181411959514

 and battery holder:
 http://www.utmfg.com/category/BAT-AA.html

 Use 4 of them for 14.8V.

 Keith
 KB9WMJ


 - Original Message -
 From: hb9brj hb9...@gmail.com javascript:;
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net javascript:;
 Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 12:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 Battery Approach


 Using 8 internal eneloop cells, I measured battery voltage versus current
 (as
 shown on the KX3 display) during RX and different TX pwr levels, created 
 an
 Excel scatter chart and fitted a linear trend line. The result: 1.15 Ohms,
 R^2 = 0.95.

 A single eneloop cell has around 0.035 Ohms of internal resistance
 (measured
 with a 4-connector battery DC resistance meter forcing current pulses thru
 the cell under test).

 My conclusion: 25% of the 1.15 Ohms are due to the 8 cells, 75% originate
 in
 the battery holder and additional wiring.

 Markus HB9BRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] Ameritron AL-811H and Elecraft K3

2014-07-01 Thread KB9WMJ
I use an AL-811H and the K3.  Just use a RCA to RCA plug to key the amp from 
the K3.  I have my K3 setup to 50W.

No issues.


- Original Message - 
From: Ramon Tristani r.trist...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 10:12 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Ameritron AL-811H and Elecraft K3


I am considering using my K3 with an Ameritron AL-811H linear amplifier. 
Yeah, I know, the KPA-500 runs circles around it… but budget is tight here. 
Are there any interface problems that I should be aware of? If so, are there 
any fixes for them? Please let me know. Thanks.

Ramón Tristani, NQ9V



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Front Panel Problem

2014-07-01 Thread KB9WMJ
Check to see if you have corroded pins on the front panel.

Elecraft has a mod for older K3's that switch them to all gold pins to 
prevent this.

You can always take the front panel off, and reseat them.

Keith
KB9WMJ
- Original Message - 
From: Ellam, Timothy St. J. tel...@mccarthy.ca
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 11:58 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Front Panel Problem


Hi



I have an issue with my K3. I keep the antennas physically disconnected here 
and the radio had not been turned on for a week or so. Turned it on last 
night and it initially worked fine. Made a few Qs on 6m.



I then noticed that I could not switch the VFOs back and forth using the A/B 
button. Most of the buttons on the right hand side of the radio are dead. 
I cannot change band, but can change mode. Some buttons appear to be 
remapped. ie: the RX button turns the NB function on and off. The ANT 
button does the same thing for the NR function.



The archives suggest this can be fixed by using the restore feature (Holding 
Low Cut/Nom knob and cycling the power). I tried that 9saving the config 
first), but no luck. The Norm button also does not seem to be functioning 
correctly (pushing the knob has no effect, but I can change the cut).



Any ideas? Is there another to try a full restore?



73



Tim VE6SH







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 50MHz tx distortion

2014-06-30 Thread KB9WMJ
Perhaps you accidentally turned on ESSB?

Tap the Config menu, and find TX ESSB.  It should be set at 'OFF 3.0'. 
Pressing '1' turns it on and off.

Keith
KB9WMJ
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Torry peter.to...@talktalk.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 1:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 50MHz tx distortion


My SSB signal on 50 MHz is excessively wide and causing problems for
other users therefore I am seeking any assistance in curing the problem.

Adjusting the mic gain or the comp level has no effect on signal width.
The power supply voltage is stable and only varies by 100mV from standby
to full output.  Examining the signal using the internal 2 tone test
revealed severe IMD at full output but dramatically cleaned up when the
power was reduced to 50W ( -3dB from peak).

I would appreciate any guidance on where to look next or if anyone has
experience of this what effected a cure.

73

Peter

G3SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]

2014-06-26 Thread KB9WMJ
One of my Elmers showed me another way.

Purposley choose the twig ends of the branch of a huge tree.  Use this as 
your center of the dipole, or whatever.  Blow a line all the way over the 
tree, and attach it to something other than the tree.  Pull up the antenna, 
and leave rope line going down from the center point.  Once you get the 
center where you want it, tie the dangling rope to something solid, like a 
Land Anchor.  Pull the other side and tie it down to something solid as 
well, like another Land Anchor, or even the base of another tree.

Now your center point is suspended towards the outside of a tree branch, and 
will not move up and down, as you have it anchored from above, and below 
even when the wind blows.  Use the ends of the antenna to stop the antenna 
from moving side to side.  The trick is not allowing the centerpoint to 
twist before you get the ends stretched out.

Keith
KB9WMJ



- Original Message - 
From: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net
To: Doug Person k0...@aol.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 12:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]


Hi Doug:
I use a similar technique in suspending my antennas. I thought I would add 
some do's and don'ts. Like don't forget copper will stretch. I use 1 gallon 
paint buckets full of dirt for about 10# of weight on the pulleys. I suspend 
the rope in a tree yoke or a limb close to the trunk to minimize sway. Be 
sure there is pleanty of travel for wind storms.

The ends of the antenna are 'hotter' than the feed point so I like to clear 
the end of the antenna and the tree with at least 8' of rope. If I have a 
middle support I use a yard arm of at least 4'. If you are using an antenna 
like a G5RV, Windom, or zepp that uses a portion of the feed line as a 
match, don't forget that portion will be radiating too so keep it vertical 
and away from the tree.

I have found pine and eucalyptus trees to be the worst for parasitic 
absorption but I think that is largely a function of the volume of sap and 
water so the wetter the more loss and the further away you want to keep the 
antenna.


73,
Fred, AE6QL

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Re: [Elecraft] Odd K3 behavior when P3 used

2014-06-21 Thread KB9WMJ
Howard at Elecraft figured this out.

You must set the Transmit Timeout on the P3 to 0 (zero).  You do this by 
pressing Ctrl-Alt-S on the USB keyboard plugged into the P3.  The default 
for this value is 3000

It is listed as The length of time an idle signal will be transmitted in 
RTTY and PSK modes after the last character is sent.  The timing is in 
milliseconds and ranges from 0 to 90,000

Again, this only occurs if you are using the Text Messages with a P3, and 
then switch to another type of keying like a paddle or straight key, or any 
device like a K1EL keyer attached to the key or paddle ports.

What the Text Messages allow you to do, is map any key on the USB keyboard 
to be a CW Macro.  I use the F keys on a USB keyboard to be canned messages, 
and then switch to my paddle for other things I need to send.  You can set 
this to work on SSB as well, as you can configure any key to be a Macro as 
well, and play one of your Voice memories by pressing a key on the USB 
keyboard.

Since this setting in the P3 has nothing to do with CW, I hope there will be 
a fix in a future firmware release.

Keith
KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: kb9...@wi.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 12:12 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Odd K3 behavior when P3 used


I am having a strange issue since I installed my P3.

If I use one of the P3 Text Message keys to send CW(any memory) and then
switch to my paddle (plugged into paddle jack), or even my K1EL keyer
(plugged into Key jack) there are 2 glitches when I start sending CW.  This
occurs every time.

Lets say I set my key speed on the K3 set real slow to 8WPM.  If I press a
key on my USB keyboard to send CW, it sends normally.  If I continue to use
the keyboard everything is perfect.  If I switch to my paddle, and lets say
hold the Dah in.  I get the 1st Dah with a 1/10th second pause, and then the
1st Dah continues, and then the second dah comes and it does the same thing.
Everything after that will be perfect.

The same hold true if I'm using my K1EL instead of the paddle.  There will
always be 2 pauses.  The K1EL is setup as a straight key

Once those 2 pauses happen, they never happen again, until I switch back to
any P3 text message.

Also, it does not matter how long I wait after using the P3 memory to switch
to my paddle.

Keith
KB9WMJ

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[Elecraft] Odd K3 behavior when P3 used

2014-06-18 Thread KB9WMJ
I am having a strange issue since I installed my P3.

If I use one of the P3 Text Message keys to send CW(any memory) and then 
switch to my paddle (plugged into paddle jack), or even my K1EL keyer 
(plugged into Key jack) there are 2 glitches when I start sending CW.  This 
occurs every time.

Lets say I set my key speed on the K3 set real slow to 8WPM.  If I press a 
key on my USB keyboard to send CW, it sends normally.  If I continue to use 
the keyboard everything is perfect.  If I switch to my paddle, and lets say 
hold the Dah in.  I get the 1st Dah with a 1/10th second pause, and then the 
1st Dah continues, and then the second dah comes and it does the same thing. 
Everything after that will be perfect.

The same hold true if I'm using my K1EL instead of the paddle.  There will 
always be 2 pauses.  The K1EL is setup as a straight key

Once those 2 pauses happen, they never happen again, until I switch back to 
any P3 text message.

Also, it does not matter how long I wait after using the P3 memory to switch 
to my paddle.

Keith
KB9WMJ 

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[Elecraft] K3 MARS mod, showing a virus

2014-06-02 Thread KB9WMJ
Has anyone else encountered this?

My AVG virus S/W is saying that my K3 MARS mod (which I have not used yet) 
contains the Win32/DH virus.

I e-mailed Elecraft a week ago, but got no response.


Keith
KB9WMJ

 

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[Elecraft] Fred Cady (KE7X) books 40% off til 12/31 via Lulu

2013-12-28 Thread KB9WMJ
I just received KE7X's 2nd edition K3 book for 40% off from Lulu.com.  The 
coupon expires 12/31/13  http://www.coupons.com/coupon-codes/lulu/

This book lists for $44 w/shipping, but I got it for $28.  I ordered it on 
12/21, and received it on 12/27.

I have no affiliation with Fred or Lulu

Keith
KB9WMJ


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[Elecraft] K3 NB Operation

2013-10-08 Thread KB9WMJ
I am trying to understand the Noise Blanker in the K3.  I don't use it very
much, but I was playing with it today, and got mixed results.

On 10M USB, when I tap the NB button I hear the enable tone (mid tone going
high) that it turns on, but the NB icon is not displayed.  If I use the
autotuner in the rig, the NB icon appears. I have NB Save on in the config
menu, and if I switch from 10M to 12M, and back, the NB icon is gone, but
the NB is engaged, azs if I press the NB button I get the disengage tone
(mid tone going low).  I do not understand why the icon does not always
show.

When I press the NB button, for the Level setting, I can set the DSP
settings (Off and T1-1 to T3-7) with the main VFO, but the bottom of the
display says IF N/A and I can not adjust it.

I know the NB is working, as I can adjust it high enough to cause
distortion, so I can hear the difference when I switch in on and off.

S/N 3897, and gold pin mode was done by Elecraft.

Keith
KB9WMJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 NB Operation

2013-10-08 Thread KB9WMJ
K3's can have problems with poor connections on the front panel, as early 
ones did not use gold pins.  I'm not sure where the engineering change is, 
but current production K#'s use gold pins now.  As the rig ages, you can get 
a poor connection, and loose functions, like the NB icon dissapearing.  This 
is not an easy mod, as there are like 40 pins that would need to be 
replaced.

Elecraft e-mailed me back since my 1st post, and said they did NOT do the 
gold pin mod when they had the rig last year.  This is different than what 
they told me on the phone when I called them.


- Original Message - 
From: Andy, KU7T k...@ku7t.org
To: kb9...@wi.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 6:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 NB Operation


Keith,

What is the gold pin mod?

Thanks
Andreas

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of kb9...@wi.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 8, 2013 3:17 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 NB Operation

I am trying to understand the Noise Blanker in the K3.  I don't use it very
much, but I was playing with it today, and got mixed results.

On 10M USB, when I tap the NB button I hear the enable tone (mid tone going
high) that it turns on, but the NB icon is not displayed.  If I use the
autotuner in the rig, the NB icon appears. I have NB Save on in the config
menu, and if I switch from 10M to 12M, and back, the NB icon is gone, but
the NB is engaged, and if I press the NB button I get the disengage tone
(mid tone going low).  I do not understand why the icon does not always
show.

When I press the NB button, for the Level setting, I can set the DSP
settings (Off and T1-1 to T3-7) with the main VFO, but the bottom of the
display says IF N/A and I can not adjust it.

I know the NB is working, as I can adjust it high enough to cause
distortion, so I can hear the difference when I switch in on and off.

S/N 3897, and gold pin mod was done by Elecraft.

Keith
KB9WMJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker

2013-08-31 Thread KB9WMJ
I wasn't the one asking the question.  I was only responding with my 
insight.

I also listen with the SGC ADSP2 speaker, but I do not find it very useful 
with actual QSO's.

How do you get around the relearn time of the DSP speaker when switching 
from transmit to receive?

Keith
KB9WMJ



- Original Message - 
From: 34france 34fra...@bellsouth.net
To: kb9...@wi.rr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2013 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker


Keith,
I have been using a Clear Speech AND an SGC ADSP simultaneously with a fixed
K3 at my home base for several years. Basically, I leave it on 'ALL THE
TIME'.  It reduces 'ear fatigue' from extraneous noise and makes the whole
experience inviting to have long casual 'rag chews' even between continents.
Whenever I turn off the extra signal processing to reset the K3 settings to
best performance, I inevitably turn it back on again, because the difference
is so dramatic.  Strong signals sound like local FM and weak signals are
sometimes readable with the outboard DSP, while impossible without it.

Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
Jerry (N4TSC)

-Original Message- 
From: kb9...@wi.rr.com
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 23:23
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker

I have used the Gap Hear It and SGC ADSP2 speakers, which are very
similar, and they have their advantages.  I prefer the SGC because of it's
ease of switching between 0db, -13db or -26db noise reduction with a single
switch.

I use the SGC on 6M, when I want to monitor 50.125 USB continuously.  I put
it in the -26dB mode and all the static is gone, so I just wait for voices
to show up.  Unfortunately it makes everything sound like water dripping,
which can be a little annoying.  The GAP is either on or off, and you are
constaly messing with the switches on the back of it to change the level.

Generally the DSP speakers have a slight delay, which can be a problem.
Every time you switch from transmit to receive, the DSP speaker has to
relearn its parameters, so the first 1/2 second or so is without DSP.  It is
amazing how often this is the other call you are trying to pick out, which
is obliterated by the initial switch-over noise.

I have a K3, and have not found it's DSP to be particulary useful.  Usually
by the time I need to use the NR on the K3, the signal I am listening to is
too far gone for it to really help much.

Keith
KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: Bill b...@w2blc.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 8:05 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker


Is anyone using the West Mountain Clear Speech Noise Reduction Speaker
with their K3? If so, how do you like and what does it do for you that
the K3 does not?

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker

2013-08-30 Thread KB9WMJ
I have used the Gap Hear It and SGC ADSP2 speakers, which are very 
similar, and they have their advantages.  I prefer the SGC because of it's 
ease of switching between 0db, -13db or -26db noise reduction with a single 
switch.

I use the SGC on 6M, when I want to monitor 50.125 USB continuously.  I put 
it in the -26dB mode and all the static is gone, so I just wait for voices 
to show up.  Unfortunately it makes everything sound like water dripping, 
which can be a little annoying.  The GAP is either on or off, and you are 
constaly messing with the switches on the back of it to change the level.

Generally the DSP speakers have a slight delay, which can be a problem. 
Every time you switch from transmit to receive, the DSP speaker has to 
relearn its parameters, so the first 1/2 second or so is without DSP.  It is 
amazing how often this is the other call you are trying to pick out, which 
is obliterated by the initial switch-over noise.

I have a K3, and have not found it's DSP to be particulary useful.  Usually 
by the time I need to use the NR on the K3, the signal I am listening to is 
too far gone for it to really help much.

Keith
KB9WMJ


- Original Message - 
From: Bill b...@w2blc.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 8:05 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - using Clear Speech Speaker


Is anyone using the West Mountain Clear Speech Noise Reduction Speaker
with their K3? If so, how do you like and what does it do for you that
the K3 does not?

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Front Panel Problem

2013-08-05 Thread KB9WMJ
This is a known issue with older K3's.  The contacts between the PC Board 
and the front panel and lose conectivity.  I do not recall all the details, 
so don't quote me, but I believe the materials were either dis-similar, or 
just not a reliable material.Elecraft started using silver plated 
contacts later in the production of K3's.  You can take it apart, and clean 
them, but this will re-occur.

- I have used a product called Stabilant 22, not in the K3, but in my work 
on computers.  This is a very good product, and not only cleans the contact, 
but prevents them from corroding again.  The down-side is it leaves a sticky 
substance on the pins, which is why they do not corrode, but it will pick up 
other dirt making the next cleaning more difficult.

- You can replace the pins, as these are available from Elecraft (Beware, as 
there are 40, I think)

- You can send in your radio, and they will replace them.

Fortunately my K3 was sent in by the previous owner, and mod'd up to the 
current level, which included the pin replacement.

Keith
KB9WMJ

- Original Message - 
From: Michael Downs k...@verizon.net
To: Dave Hachadorian k6ll.d...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Front Panel Problem


Thanks Dave,

I tried rotating the four knobs and tapping them. Found out rotating the 
knobs works as expected, but the tap and hold functions do not work at all. 
None of the other buttons on the front panel work as expected except the 
POWER button. Tapping many of the buttons has no effect, but others cause 
unrelated functions to execute. For example, tapping the PRE button causes 
NTCH to turn on or off. Tapping the ANT button causes NR to turn on or off. 
Tapping the SPOT button or AFX button causes the SHIFT/LO control to switch 
from SHIFT to LO and the HI/WIDTH control to shift from HI to WIDTH.

This behavior causes me to believe the Parameter Initialization procedure 
needs to be activated, but I can't get it to initiate because the SHIFT/LO 
control doesn't work as expected. Oops! I just got it to work by holding the 
SPOT button while tapping the POWER button. Weird. Anyway, I restored the K3 
Configuration but none of the front panels problems have been resolved.

On Aug 3, 2013, at 7:51 PM, Dave Hachadorian k6ll.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sometimes the pushbuttons on the four controls to the left of the
 main VFO knob get stuck.  Tap and rotate these four controls and
 everything will probably start working again.  One of the factory
 guys gave me that advice and it worked for me, about two years
 ago.  I bought replacements for the four encoder/switches (about
 $2 each) but never installed them, because everything has been
 totally solid ever since, and installation seemed like a PITA.
 As I remember, it took about ten minutes of fiddling with the
 controls until everything started working again.


 Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
 Big Bear Lake, CA



 -Original Message- From: Michael Downs
 Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 4:24 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Front Panel Problem

 Elecraft List,

 I haven't used my K3 for quite a while as I have been playing
 with the KX3 (the K3 has been sitting on the desk totally
 disconnected from everything). Now when I fire up the K3, none of
 the front panel buttons and dual-purpose controls work, except
 volume and VFO A. I thought maybe the menu parameters got altered
 somehow preventing the firmware from operating correctly, so I
 tried to do a parameter initialization. But that failed because
 the Shift/Lo knob is not working (The other dual-purpose knobs:
 Hi/Width, Speed/Mic, and Cmp/Pwr don't work either). Therefore, I
 figured the contacts between the front panel and the radio had
 become corroded and weren't making a good electrical connection
 anymore. So, I removed the front panel and inspected the pins.
 Everything looked normal and I put the radio back together again.
 Still not working.

 Anyone want to make suggestions on what else I should try? I can
 communicate with the radio using the K3 Utility and I did
 reinstall the MCU firmware, DSP firmware and front panel
 firmware. None of that helped. I still think there must be a
 communication problem between the front panel and the radio, but
 don't know how to fix it. Suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 73,
 Mike ks7d

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