Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filters

[Kevin - K4VD]

An alternative thought. INRAD makes a decent product and has been around
for years. I've used their roofing filter in my FT-1000 and I think it was
in my FT-897 also(?). If I were looking to refit an existing rig, any rig,
with a roofing filter I'd give serious consideration to INRAD's offerings.

Specifications are a consideration. I'm not sure how the two products
compare in the lab. If both are very similar then I'd say thank you to
INRAD for selling at the lower price.

Don't get me wrong. I really enjoy my Elecraft. One of the best rigs I've
ever owned and definitely the best when portable. But if I want to say
thank you I'll send them a card.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:09 AM, Raymond Sills 
wrote:

> I don't have a K3, or K3S... but if I did, I'd order from Elecraft.  After
> all, if it were not for Elecraft, Inrad would not be making them.
>
>
> Paying a bit extra to Elecraft is a way to say "thank you" for their
> wonderful products, and their outstanding customer service.
>
>
>
>
> 73 de Ray
> K2ULR
> KX3 #211
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery 
> To: elecraft 
> Sent: Thu, Jun 22, 2017 10:26 am
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filters
>
> INRAD makes Elecraft's filters as I understand it...
>
> I'll be getting mine from Elecraft directly.
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
> On 6/22/2017 8:10 AM, Mike Harris wrote:
> > Wandering the web I notice that INRAD are offering K3 Roofers somewhat
> > less than Elecraft prices.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike VP8NO
> > __
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[Elecraft] Praise for the Newsletter

[Kevin - K4VD]

Looking back at the archives this is Elecraft's second newsletter but first
with some real meat. Other items in the archive were advertising campaigns.
While the February newsletter had a nice article up front this latest issue
actually matches the quality of information I expect from E.

The Field Day tips are timely but these tips could be used for any day or
two in the field. I'm particularly looking forward to trying the tips on
antenna spacing and rig adjustments when we have two KX3s (and two backup
KX3s) in close proximity (same picnic table) in Floyd, VA for our club's
2017 2A Battery FD effort.

Keep this kind of writing up and I'll be looking forward to every new
issue. I would love to see some practical articles on portable setups
including antenna options. Maybe highlight some hams using Elecraft in
various situations. Maybe a new tip each issue similar to the all the tips
on the current newsletter.

One thing I noticed, the blue bar across the top shows this latest
newsletter is the *April *issue.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Packing Peanuts

[Kevin - K4VD]

Does being packed in all those static-charged peanuts represent a danger to
electronic equipment like the K2?

Kev K4VD

On Sat, Jun 17, 2017 at 4:44 PM, Rose  wrote:

> Or hair spray ...
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
>
> On Jun 17, 2017 14:42, "Bob McGraw K4TAX"  wrote:
>
> > Just spray the inside of the trash container with Fabric Softener.  As to
> > the ones in the box, same thing.  Static gone.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Bob, K4TAX
> >
> >
> > On 6/17/2017 3:20 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> >
> >> Just received a K2 kit via UPS -- my third in fact -- and spent 20
> >> comical minutes trying to empty out the styrofoam packing peanuts.
> >>
> >> They come, apparently, fully charged.  They cling to my fingers.  They
> >> cling to my shirt.  They cling to the outer shipping box.  After I get
> >> about ten handfuls into a small trash bag the common charge results in
> the
> >> smaller pieces flying out again.  Back onto my fingers.  Grabbing them
> with
> >> one hand while holding a cold water faucet with the other didn' t help
> at
> >> all.
> >>
> >> Whenever I get a kit I feel as if I have to do the electrostatic
> >> equivalent of a detox shower before I do the parts inventory.  Isn't
> there
> >> some good substitute for these accursed things?  Maybe like their
> ancestors
> >> -- real peanuts?  At least you can eat those while you're unpacking the
> kit
> >> . . .
> >>
> >> Ted, KN1CBR
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> >> __
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> >>
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Operating Time Sync

[Kevin - K4VD]

I have found myself in this situation. WSJT-X shows absolute time
differences between your clock and remote stations. I takes me a little
fiddling but I found I can adjust my computer clock manually to get the
WSJT-X reported time differences down to less than a second. No Internet or
external devices needed.

Not sure about Apple products. In Windows 10 you need to go to additional
date, time, & regional settings to get to where you can adjust the seconds.

I hope there's a helpful clue in this.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Thu, Jun 15, 2017 at 2:59 PM, Matthew George 
wrote:

> Tune in to wwv and synchronize your clock.  The jt modes will be fine even
> if you are a second or two off.  Or get a gps and synch to the gps clock
> via nema.  Use google and search on all your options.  You could setup nptd
> on your mac and use a pps signal from a gps too.  Max Ng7m
>
> --
> Matthew George
> 801-560-8754
>
> > On Jun 15, 2017, at 12:46 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
> >
> > I have a MacBook Pro Retina Display running Sierra 10.12.5 that I use
> with my KX3 when operating portable. Part of my operating is done with
> WSJT-X, for JT65 and JT9 modes. This software is very time sync critical -
> the computer clock needs to be within +- one second accuracy. Here at home
> on my wireless network connected to our cable company, works great.
> >
> > However, a recent trip to the southern Philippines as DU8/W6JHB with
> this equipment was an eye-opener. I completely forgot that the laptop clock
> would not keep that sort of accuracy without having Internet access. I saw
> many signals, but WSJT-X decoded nothing at first. Luckily I realized what
> was happening and was able to access and connect to the WiFi network at the
> resort we were staying at. This connection provided the accuracy the
> software needed and all was good.
> >
> > But - when we return on our next "vacation" we may not have the luxury
> of a resort having WiFi for it's guests. So, I'm looking for some sort of
> device that I can use to keep the laptop clock accurate. Internet access
> would be a bonus, but of most importance is that internal clock.
> >
> > Any suggestions? By the way, a mega-buck device is pretty much out of
> the question. Just ask my wife... :-)
> >
> > 73, Jim
> >
> > Jim Bennett / W6JHB
> > Folsom, CA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] On relearning morse

[Kevin - K4VD]

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 2:08 PM, Tox  wrote:

> Just ordered a KX3 to replace the FT-817 that was stolen last year, and
> hoping to get it in time for Field Day.
>

​Let me be the first to say the potentially politically incorrect thing to
say... Between you and the thief, you're definitely getting the better deal.

Good luck on getting it in time. Our club, W4OWL, will be running 2A
swapping around four KX3s into service.​ It's a 5-person club with 4 KX3s.
A husband and wife team share. Personally I'd tell her to get her own KX3
but they are still basically newlyweds.

What a day.

73,
Kev K4VD


​
​
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hello Scott. Out of all that you only quote the word coddling? I didn't say
anything about how someone else should learn Morse code (other than maybe
Just do it). I said how I learned it. Nothing fancy, nose to the
grindstone, learn by doing. It's just Morse code. It is not a new language.
It is a substitute for letters in our existing language. There's 26
letters, 10 numbers and a handful of prosigns. Not terribly complicated.

You seem to need a cause to fight for but it's not here. People do learn
things differently and I shared how I learned. That can't be changed.

Kev K4VD


On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 10:43 AM, Scott Manthe <scott.man...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> How in the world is someone learning something in a way that most suits
> them "coddling?" People learn things differently, even Morse. Finding the
> way that best suits someone is not coddling them, it's helping them to
> learn efficiently.
>
> Scott N9AA
>
>
> On 6/12/17 8:18 AM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>
>> ​I learned code by memorizing 5 wpm and then getting on the air and having
>> as many contacts as I could. Nothing fancy, no coddling. Just do it.
>>
>> 73,
>> Kev
>> ​
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I learned code by memorizing 5 wpm and then getting on the air and having
as many contacts as I could. Nothing fancy, no coddling. Just do it.

73,
Kev
​
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Display is Dated...

[Kevin - K4VD]

Keep it simple? Like a crystal radio?

On my KX3 I want a full heads-up display. It should have virtual
reality goggles tied to Google Earth so I can fly to your
neighborhood, check out your antenna farm and make recommendations for
improvements. I want to visualize the path my radio waves take to get
to the DX I want and be able to tweak the ionosphere for maximum S/N
at the distant end. Ideally I should have control of the DX station's
rotator. Every time I make contact with someone I want to see a 3D
starfield fly by to give me the impression of actually going
somewhere. And I want it all done in fluorescent orange and black.

Actually, it's kind of nice to get a refresh every so often. The thing
is, if there were some sort of front panel updates it really wouldn't
affect all those who currently have a radio, right? Not like our radio
is going to morph over night or anything.

73,
Kev K4VD


On Tue, May 30, 2017 at 8:26 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> I have to agree, "the kiss principle" Keep is simple stupid - works every
> time.
> While 'glitsy' displays are pretty to watch, they often do not convey
> relevant information, or that information is buried in the 'glitz' and not
> easily recognized at a glance.
>
> The K3, KX3, KX2 displays show the VFO frequency as the predominate display
> with the VFO B as a slightly lesser predominance.  Other functions are
> indicated to tell you what is going on.  Everything needed is there.
>
> I have to contrast that to some of the displays I see on my tablet.  I have
> to hunt around the display to find the item of interest.
>
> Touchscreen - no thanks - I would need a stylus and not all stylus touches
> produce the desired action (if my tablet is any example).  That uncertainty
> is not something I need in a radio.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/30/2017 8:08 PM, Roger Meadows wrote:
>>
>> When I worked in industrial automation the graphics on the control
>> stations displays were getting fancier and fancier. The fancier they got,
>> the more cluttered than got. Then, the industry as a whole started noting
>> that more accidents were happening and missed alarms. They, because the
>> displays were to cutsie.
>>
>> What then happened over the next few years and is standard now is very
>> plain graphics and displays so information does not get lost in the clutter.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] N6WM/KH6 KX2 portable fun

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Chris... looking forward to trying a VA(KX3) - HI(KX2) QSO. Will
you be working some CW or digital?

I've been working on my checklist for portable ops with the KX3. Maybe
a little OCD but I'm always concerned about getting out in the field
and forgetting something key. My minimal list is:

KX3
License
Logbook
Notebook
Pen
Pencil
Antenna 40/20
Coax jumper
Paddles
Earphones
Hand mic
Mason line
Weight
Spare batteries (AA)

All fits in a small camera bag.

Also, I wonder if there's any concern about sand getting into the KX2.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 alc/cmp and swr/rf display

[Kevin - K4VD]

:) That was it. Thanks David. That was driving me nuts.

The behavior I was seeing was not default but I don't remember ever
changing that. I don't remember ever recognizing there's even a sub-menu to
CW WGHT.

This is a new rig and it is kind of factory fresh. I wonder if I should
perform a factory reset to make sure things work as expected? If I do a
factory reset, does this change any of the settings made during factory
calibration or the factory installed modules?

At any rate... thanks David. This really was driving me crazy.

73,
Kev K4VD




On Mon, May 29, 2017 at 5:19 PM, David Orman  wrote:

> In the CW WGHT menu tap 1 to toggle SSB+CW (CW enabled) and SSB-CW (CW
> disabled). With it enabled you'll see wpm. Disable and you'll get the
> behavior you want with cmp/alc. Kind of a hidden menu, I forget about it
> sometimes too. Keep in mind you won't be able to send CW while in SSB modes
> with it disabled.
>
> David / K5DJO
>
> On Sun, May 28, 2017, 10:16 Detrick Merz  wrote:
>
> > Got two KX3 radios sitting here. Both in USB mode. On one, pressing the
> > keyer/mic button switches the display between swr/rf and cmp/alc. On the
> > other radio pressing keyer/mic it switches between showing mic gain and
> wpm
> > in vfo b, but always shows cmp/alc.
> >
> > What are we missing?
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > -detrick
> > KI4STU
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Re: [Elecraft] Fool proof kill switch = deadman timer?

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I wonder if a feature request which includes a watchdog timer on transmit
might be a general solution.​ If it were available, I might set mine for 5
or 10 minutes. This way the radio would terminate transmitting without just
pulling the power which might cause some issues with internal processes or
memory maybe?

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 alc/cmp and swr/rf display

[Kevin - K4VD]

​To follow up, it was me that this happened to while out in the field
yesterday. Detrick and I both had our KX3s with us. ​

I was set for USB mode and preparing to work some voice (very rare for me).
On ptt down I was able to set ALC to 4+flicker and add a little
compression. I wanted to switch over to see SWR and power so I clicked the
KEYER/MIC knob. It didn't switch the power meter. In fact, oddly, it gave
me the option of setting mic gain or cw speed.

I checked Detrick's KX3 including a quick run through the menus. His acted
as I expected.

It's a new KX3. First time in the field. But I'm not that new to KX3s.
After a year or so with the previous KX3 I had menu options set the way I
liked them and then never thought about them again. I'm kind of thinking I
forgot something I should know as the KX3 worked flawlessly otherwise. I
was able to read power/swr in CW and DATA-A modes as expected.

I have the KX3 still packed from yesterday's WWFF visit to Mason Neck Park.
I'll drag it out later to try and figure things out but if anyone knows off
the top of their heads what I missed, let me know.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Detrick Merz  wrote:

> Got two KX3 radios sitting here. Both in USB mode. On one, pressing the
> keyer/mic button switches the display between swr/rf and cmp/alc. On the
> other radio pressing keyer/mic it switches between showing mic gain and wpm
> in vfo b, but always shows cmp/alc.
>
> What are we missing?
>
> 73,
>
> -detrick
> KI4STU
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[Kevin - K4VD]

I like WSJT-X but I use JTDX as much or more. It adds some interesting
features to the decoding. WSJT-X interface is a little more polished but
JTDX isn't bad.

Read about different versions and try them out before discounting them
because someone says so.

73,
Kev K4VD



On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 3:38 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Sun,5/28/2017 12:18 AM, Richard Lamont wrote:
>
>> I agree with all of that, except the 'unauthorized' bit.
>>
>
> Joe has posted on that topic. The executive summary is that he is not
> happy with the way in which some of those other developers have failed to
> respect his license.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Hallicrafters HA-1

[Kevin - K4VD]

Is Idiom Press out of business? I thought they just changed their name:
https://www.hamsupply.com. Hamsupply.com has the Logikey K-5 Electronic
Keyer  with Accukeyer
emulation. I use one - not so much any more - but still have it anyway.
Wonderful keyer. Not sure if this is the one you're referring to though.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Sun, May 21, 2017 at 9:04 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:

> I'm approaching my 60th year in ham radio and have a confession; I learned
> Morse with my Boy Scout Handbook (still have it) by sight not sound.
> Consequently, I've never been a very good CW op, although I have a 20 WPM
> Extra license.  As a Novice I used a Western Electric "Pole-Changer"
> straight key given to me by a non-ham retired telegrapher friend, (That's
> still on the operating desk).  I never even tried a bug, but when I built
> my first Accu-Keyer I finally had some help.  I used it with a number of
> rigs and when the Accu-Memory came out I was in heaven.
>
> I build two of them at first and gave one to my friend George Badger,
> W6TC, who liked it too.  Then I built a third one for the heart of my
> meteor scatter/EME station.  With several handfulls of TTL logic I added a
> timer/sequencer that used the power line as a time base to automatically
> control the station on the various sequences used for MS and EME. Preamp
> switching/relay delay, TX delay, etc were all timed by the keyer and the
> "canned" messages were in memory.  All I had to do was listen and select
> the next message as the QSO progressed. (That one is still in my storage
> building too.)
>
> Among its wonderful ergonomics the TS870 that I had before buying a K3 was
> an Accu-Keyer emulation.   I never had trouble sending CW with that rig.
> Enter the K3 (and now a K3S).  I can't even send my call gracefully.  I was
> prepared to buy the Idiom Press unit when they went out of business.
>
> I would love Accu-Keyer emulation in my K3s.
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
> On 5/15/2017 12:57 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:
>
>> This is one of the things that has always bugged me about internal rig
>> keyers (Elecraft included).  And as as result, I’ve almost never used
>> them.  I’ve been using an Accu-Keyer (or emulator) for so long that nothing
>> else is comfortable.
>>
>> I moved from my original home brewed Accu-Keyer (which I still have,
>> refuse to part with,  and occasionally use) to the enhanced Accu-Memory
>> version, to an MM-3 (with emulation — and still one of the best stand-alone
>> keyers ever made) to the Idiom Press CMOS 4 (with emulation) because of its
>> small form factor.
>>
>> It seems that something as basic as Accu-Keyer timing with auto-character
>> (and even auto-word) space isn’t exactly “rocket science”.  So how about it
>> Elecraft?   Accu-Keyer emulation would make a better than run-of-the-mill
>> update!!  For the K3, KX3, KX2.  And I wouldn’t have to carry the CMOS 4 in
>> my KX3 bag or fiddle with more cables on the table with the K3.  I’m
>> probably not alone here, given the popularity of the Accu-Keyer.  I can
>> send better CW with a bug than I can with paddles and an electronic keyer
>> that lacks ACS.  Maybe it’s my (old) age or just practice ...  :-)
>>
>> But - it didn't have auto character spacing which came out with the WB4VVF
>>> Accu-Keyer (hint-hint - so it's not OT after all).
>>>
>>> Grant NQ5T
>> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Kevin - K4VD]

I'm not sure how much I would trust the temperature strap. Certainly not
enough to leave it charging unattended. These things, from what I see on
Youtube, start their reaction on the inside and violently explode. I am not
sure reading case temperatures would give warning soon enough.

Maybe I missed this in the thread but can someone cite an authoritative and
maybe trustworthy source for Lithium battery safety? So many old spouse
tales seem to have grown up around this technology.

Kev K4VD

On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 1:20 PM, kevino z  wrote:

> Was the fire a result of the lithium battery or leaving a charger
> unattended while charging? I am not sure, but the charger I have has a temp
> probe that gets strapped on the LiFePo4 battery pack, and monitors it
> during the charging (in addition to balanced charging).
> It is a sad event, that is for certain, and I am not criticizing...
>
>
> -Kevin (KK4YEL)
>
> No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large
> number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced !
>
> > On May 18, 2017, at 12:05, Richard Fjeld  wrote:
> >
> > Thank you very much for this advice.
> >
> > I have often heard of fires due to Li-on batteries, but I have no idea
> of the nature of the ‘fire’.  In other words, do  they burn, or do they
> explode scattering ignited fragments.
> >
> > Knowing this would help in finding a safe container for charging them.
> It is not practical to always avoid leaving  them unattended while charging.
> >
> > I’d like to know more about the bag someone mentioned, and if cooling is
> a problem.
> >
> > Rich, n0ce
> >
> > From: William Lagerberg
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 4:30 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > I want to give you a advice, my shack it (was) in the basement
> (cellar??) I do all my thing for the hobby there.
> > A collega of mine asked me to take a look at two Go-Pro LI-Ion accu's
> because they where not loading anymore.
> >
> >
> > __
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> > Message delivered to z_kev...@hotmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] New KX2 feature: Internal logging of outgoing CW/data text

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Nice! Looking forward to the feature on the KX3.

I wonder (polite way of saying I have an idea!)... would it be possible to
continuously record in a FIFO format (maybe called a scratchpad) and then
hit the log button when you have completed a Q you want to log? It might
reduce the amount of used memory from logging useless info. Just a thought.

I always love a post that starts with "New Feature..." :)

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Heatsink [which is entirely sufficient for typical operation]

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks Wayne. I bought the heat sink for the KX3 and found it wasn't needed
for the way I operate. Seems the same for the KX2. Normal conditions don't
require additional heatsinking. Extreme conditions might.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Sun, May 14, 2017 at 12:55 PM, Wayne Burdick <n...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> We have shipped many thousands of KX2s, and in all that time I have seen
> only a few comments asking about additional heat sinking.
>
> The KX2’s thick right side panel is thermally integrated with both the top
> and bottom cover. This results in heat sinking that is entirely adequate
> in all modes at full power, even from a 14 volt external supply. When
> running from internal battery (11 V), heat dissipation is further reduced
> for a given power level.
>
> To put a rough number on this: I just ran my KX2 at 10 watts key-down in
> CW mode, into a dummy load, while watching the PA temperature (using the
> DISP switch function). It took well over 7 minutes for the temperature to
> reach the limit (63 C), at which point power was reduced automatically to 5
> watts. If you persisted in operating key-down, the radio would eventually
> exit transmit mode. Starting temperature was 25 C (shack ambient).
>
> Additional heat sinking might be desirable if you’re going well beyond
> “typical” operation: e.g., trying to run full power key-down for many
> minutes at a time, repeatedly, in a hot car or in direct sunlight. In that
> case, you have other options besides using supplemental heat sinking:
> reduce power, run from a lower supply voltage (like the internal battery),
> move into the shade, roll down the car windows, etc.
>
> But for the overwhelming majority of our customers, the KX2’s thermal
> design is completely up to the task. Note that the heat sinking is
> intentionally designed to heat up the right end of the enclosure, so that
> when using the rig like an HT (holding the non-antenna end), you’ll barely
> feel any increase in warmth.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
> > Kevin - K4VD wrote:
> >
> > From a recent post:
> >
> > "We have been told by people running the rig in digital modes at 10W the
> > unit will thermal down after a few transmit cycles"
> >
> > I understand the KX3 also had an early issue with heatsinks that was
> > corrected in time by the company making the aftermarket heatsink
> > unnecessary I think? I wonder if Elecraft has acknowledged the issue and
> is
> > correcting it for the KX2 also?
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] KX2 Heatsink

[Kevin - K4VD]

>From a recent post:

"We have been told by people running the rig in digital modes at 10W the
unit will thermal down after a few transmit cycles"

I understand the KX3 also had an early issue with heatsinks that was
corrected in time by the company making the aftermarket heatsink
unnecessary I think? I wonder if Elecraft has acknowledged the issue and is
correcting it for the KX2 also?

It seems odd to me that an issue like this would go unmentioned and
unaddressed by Elecraft.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code

[Kevin - K4VD]

​And we certainly don't want science experiments in ham radio. Oh no.​
Someone might get hurt.

​Someone asked about open source code for Elecraft. Answering him with,
no... you might break something, is a lousy answer.

Companies can choose one way or the other. I'm not arguing that point. It
really is a decision for CEOs and CFOs and owners and bored directors.
While I'm aware of one open source Elecraft project (scary, isn't it) I'm
not expecting them open up their code for all to see. But as a community of
hams I am amazed at how we are shooting this guy's idea down dead. Then
kicking it. Then maybe shooting it again instead of commiserating with him
about all the cool things that might be missed because things are closed.

73,
Kev, K4VD
Reforming Curmudgeon
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I agree with Ken's conclusion that the current answer is, unfortunately,
no. I definitely do not agree with his reasoning. Car analogies aside, if
the code was open for experimentation and improvement by the wider
community then we could all benefit. ​Android, Arduino, Raspberry Pi,
Linux, ... are all examples of things that have been improved because they
can be programmed by just about anyone. Those who don't like your
improvements or don't feel their device will any longer be what they bought
and love can just not install your code changes.

But that's all a moot point as there is no access to the source code. But
unlike many other products, there seems to be pretty quick response to
requests for improvements and fixes.

Elecraft does have pretty rich macro commands allowing some nice external
software to be written. Win4K3 comes to mind. I'm pretty amazed at what has
been accomplished using the available macros. A true API from Elecraft
might improve things even further?

73,
Kev


On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Matt Maguire  wrote:

> If you want to play around with and learn about SDR, I suggest you build a
> soft rock kit. Keep your Electaft rig for listening on the bands while you
> work in the kit :-)
>
> 73 de Matt VK2RQ
>
> > On 12 May 2017, at 1:30 pm, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike!
> >
> > Your question has been asked before in several forms.  AFAIK, the answer
> is
> > "No", and I hope it remains so.
> >
> > If you were able to change your Elecraft's "personality" in some way to
> > make it unique ... regardless of the merit of your change ... it would no
> > longer really be an Elecraft would it?
> >
> > If you were to sell your unit ... or need to send it somewhere for repair
> > ... what / who would know what had been altered in the radio's "brains"?
> >
> > In my view, it would be akin to putting an engine from a Ford under the
> > hood of a Buick.  The result might well result in an improvement, but the
> > resulting vehicle would always be an oddity that few would want to deal
> > with.
> >
> > Some who own / buy animals pay close attention to the genetics of their
> > critters, and sometimes someone's idea goes wrong.
> >
> > Then there's the added staff at Elecraft needed to deal with the code
> > alterations gone wrong in units sent in for "psychiatric" repair.
> >
> > We place a tremendous amount of confidence in Elecraft based on the
> > reputation of the company's products, and a major portion of that comes
> > down to the integrity of "the code".
> >
> > 73!
> >
> > Ken Kopp - K0PP
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On May 11, 2017 20:38, "Mike Parkes"  wrote:
> >
> > Hello Elecraft group,
> > I don't own anything made by Elecraft yet however I have been shopping
> for
> > an HF rig to get active again (I have been off the air for a number of
> > years for personal reasons). I really like Elecraft's products, and I am
> > intrigued by the 'software definable radio' possibilities in this new
> breed
> > of amateur radio equipment design.
> >
> > I have a question though, related to what can or can't be done with an
> > Elecraft SDR transceiver*. Is the source "code" able to be modified by
> the
> > End User?* Or is it proprietary in some way so that only those at
> Elecraft
> > can touch the code? I have been monitoring this list for while now and
> have
> > yet to read anything like, "hey check out this cool change I made on the
> > Elecraft KX3 code! Before the radio only did this - now it does this!"
> and
> > next thing you know there are some very cool user modified code being
> made
> > available. Like, the ham being able to add their call into the code? (see
> > this
> > example
> >  customized-display-kx3.jpg>
> > )
> >
> > 73's
> > Mike AB7RU
> >
> > PS I tried to send this with the image attached and it got kicked back
> with
> > an error message so apologies if is a duplicate email list submission
> from
> > me.
> > __
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> Help: 

[Elecraft] Setting Up Travel Kit

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi there...

I'm hoping this year I'll see a lot of day/half-day trips, a few overnight
or weekend trips and maybe a week getaway - all with my KX3 of course.

I'm working on progressive grab and go bags depending on the current plan.
So far, for the day/half-day trips I've come up with the following:

Pack #1 (40/20 meters, CW, some digital, some voice, limited DC power)

Bag, AmazonBasics Large DSLR Gadget Bag, Orange Interior

KX3 Radio

Paddles

KX3 allen wrench

KXPD3 allen wrench

Antenna, EF-40/20

Coax, 3’ BNCm RA to PL259

Minilog

Notepad

License

Pen

Pencil

Mason line

Fishing weight

Adapter pack (this-to-that stuff)

Earphones

8x NiMH internal

16x NiMH external

8-cell holder with 5.5x2.1 barrel


I think this is the minimum for a day at the park. It all fits into an easy
to carry bag.

My next step is to come up with a kit that adds to the above and extends
things out for a weekend. I have a 20Ah LiFePO4 (on the way) and will add
an end-fed to cover up to 80 meters along with the Heil headset. This would
be a Field Day kit for instance. More features trading off some
compactness. I'll work on an actual inventory.

The final step - the week getaway - might include a different antenna,
PX-3, KXPA100 if AC available and maybe a computer for better digital
capabilities (wsjt-x, fldigi, dxkeeper).

These are my thoughts so far. They'll probably change with some experience
and advice (hint).

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Hello All

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Thom!

Welcome back, hope you are well, and see you on the air OM.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 9:26 PM, Thom  wrote:

> I am new to the list.  I have been reading the mail for the past few days.
>
> I am not new to Elecraft Kits.  I built my first K2 back in 2005.  Since
> then I have built 6 of them for various friends.
>
> Sold my personal K2 in 2009 because I got real sick.
>
> Build another one last year but it turned into a nightmare.  My brain was
> not functioning well back then and the radio ended up scrapped. The rest
> went in the trash.
>
> Anyway I have a K1 on order that should have been shipped today. Might
> take me a couple weeks to build it.  I am going to take it nice and slow.
>
> thanks for reading.
>
> 73
>
> Thom KI8W
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Solution to KPA500 Problem

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Jim. Yep, Ora caught me offline and put me back on track. It's was a
case of me thinking RF flow and Ora was talking about keying.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Mon, May 1, 2017 at 2:56 PM, Jim Rhodes <jimk...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I think he means the control cable. KAT500 comes before KPA500 there and
> three tunes has the ability to interpret PTT to the amp.
>
>
> Jim Rhodes
> K0XU
>
> On May 1, 2017 10:06, "Kevin - K4VD" <ke...@k4vd.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Ora...
>
> I'm confused. You say you removed the tuner and connected the amp directly
> to the transceiver?
>
> My transceiver is connected directly to the amp at all times. The tuner is
> between the antenna and the amp. Removing the tuner would connect the
> antenna directly to the amp (ok if a good, resonant antenna I think).
>
> The tuner should not be placed between the transceiver and the amp.
>
> Did I misread your post maybe? In my mind, it is still very early in the
> morning. :)
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 1, 2017 at 10:47 AM, Ora Smith <orasm...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > I recently encountered an odd problem which I thought I would share in
> > case anyone else experiences it. My KPA500/KTA500 combo refused to work
> on
> > 20 meters. It appeared that the amp was not keying, but only on this
> band.
> > I suspected a problem in the amp, but when I removed the tuner and
> > connected the amp directly to the transceiver everything worked fine. It
> > turned out that the firmware in the tuner was somehow corrupted. I
> > installed the latest firmware into the KTA500 and now everything works
> FB.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Ora
> > W9DJ
> >
> > Ora Smith
> > orasm...@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Solution to KPA500 Problem

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Ora...

I'm confused. You say you removed the tuner and connected the amp directly
to the transceiver?

My transceiver is connected directly to the amp at all times. The tuner is
between the antenna and the amp. Removing the tuner would connect the
antenna directly to the amp (ok if a good, resonant antenna I think).

The tuner should not be placed between the transceiver and the amp.

Did I misread your post maybe? In my mind, it is still very early in the
morning. :)

73,
Kev K4VD



On Mon, May 1, 2017 at 10:47 AM, Ora Smith  wrote:

> I recently encountered an odd problem which I thought I would share in
> case anyone else experiences it. My KPA500/KTA500 combo refused to work on
> 20 meters. It appeared that the amp was not keying, but only on this band.
> I suspected a problem in the amp, but when I removed the tuner and
> connected the amp directly to the transceiver everything worked fine. It
> turned out that the firmware in the tuner was somehow corrupted. I
> installed the latest firmware into the KTA500 and now everything works FB.
>
> 73,
>
> Ora
> W9DJ
>
> Ora Smith
> orasm...@earthlink.net
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: What's The Best Way To Shp

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I was going to say that I have the opposite opinion... UPS over USPS but
your last paragraph was a kicker...

I never really thought about it but now it galls me that we have to pay
premium charges for insurance against a problem they cause. Now that sounds
like a scam. Like paying for a warranty.

UPS delivered a new KX3/PX3 yesterday. On time and in perfect shape. USPS
delivered an empty, busted up box from Arrow ​Antennas yesterday. Arrow
Antennas is taking care of me.

Kev K4VD


On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 10:15 PM, w7aqk  wrote:

> Every so often someone asks what the best way is to ship equipment.  I
> question whether UPS is the right answer!
>
> Some day maybe I'll better understand UPS's delivery system!  I recently
> received a package that came from Virginia via UPS.  Its 3rd stop was in
> Louisville, KY, where it then sat for 49 hours!  Its 5th stop was in
> Phoenix, AZ (120 miles north of me), where it sat for 29 hours!  Somewhere
> in between it apparently sat in the rain, as much of the "popcorn" packing
> was compressed and hard as a rock, and the documentation inside was
> stained, when I opened the package.  Fortunately, the contents were well
> wrapped with waterproof material, so no apparent damage.  It's as if UPS
> wanted to make absolutely sure I didn't get my package quickly, or heaven
> forbid, early! Being somewhat cynical, I wonder if the extra delay in
> Phoenix was so they could let the box sit in the Arizona sun and dry out!!!
>
> I may be overlooking something, but my best experiences, by far, have been
> with USPS, and particularly Priority Mail.  Unless a Sunday intervenes,
> I've never had anything take more than 3 days when shipped Priority Mail!
> If you can fit it into one of their flat rate boxes, you probably are way
> better off.  Also, I've never had a Priority Mail package arrive with
> crushed corners as this one did!
>
> Anyway, shipping these days is expensive and risky!  It still galls me
> that we have to pay premium charges for insurance against THEIR
> incompetence!
>
> Dave W7AQK
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

[Kevin - K4VD]

Really?
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Re: [Elecraft] Another really good reason to come to the Visailia DX convention this weekend...

[Kevin - K4VD]

Ya. Which bank to rob.

:)

Kev K4VD

On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 3:01 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:

> Guess I have to get an electrician to come out and give me another quote
> on a dedicated 240 VAC line to the shack.
>
> And all new baluns.
>
> And I have to check if the remote antenna switch relays are rated for more
> than 600 watts; if not, then replace that.
>
> Several hundreds of feet of coax to replace all of the ’58, right?
>
> Ferrite chokes and bypass caps on the external lighting around the house,
> and on the outside motion detectors.
>
> Anything I’ve left out?
>
> Ted, KN1CBR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hey D:

Wow! Kinda odd about the paddles. We are going to have to check into that
on the next outing. We have plenty of key options. It would be real
interesting to discover the key had something to do with noise.

By the next outing, we should both have a KX3 on the air! ;)

Kev


On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:22 PM, Detrick Merz <detr...@merzhaus.org> wrote:

> I was there with K4VD for this. Same thing happened last year at Field Day
> too, although the antenna arrangement was different for FD.
>
> Actually, it was a K1 that was hearing the KX3. We stopped using the 817
> when we switched to CW at my station. It wasn't a pure tone I was hearing,
> more of a "whoosh," and pretty faint. Not enough to interrupt anything I
> was trying to copy. Sometimes I could copy the whooshes, sometimes they
> were just noise.
>
> Also, as I recollect, I could only hear the KX3 through the K1 when you
> were using the KXPD3. When using your external paddles I couldn't hear
> anything.
>
> -detrick
> KI4STU
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>
> From: Kevin - K4VD <ke...@k4vd.net>
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 14:58:23 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park
> I understand we are speaking about the KX2 here but I'm curious... would
> roofing filters have helped in this situation?
>
> In a recent WWFF outing we had a KX3 and an FT-817 set up. We separated the
> antennas best we could but really didn't pay a lot of attention to it. I
> believe the KX3 was on 40 and the 817 on 20 meters. The KX3 never heard the
> 817 but the 817 (no roofing filters I think) washed out when the KX3 was
> keyed.
>
> The radios were about 30 feet apart and the antennas maybe 40-50 feet
> apart.
>
> If the KX3's success was due to the roofing filters installed, could some
> sort of external filter added to the KX2 contribute to a solution? Is the
> KX3 meant to play well with others while the KX2 is intended more for a
> solo trip? I understand W4RT has optional roofing filters for the FT-817. I
> wonder if he or someone might come out with a good option for the KX2.
>
> Then again... am I way off base here?
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park

[Kevin - K4VD]

I understand we are speaking about the KX2 here but I'm curious... would
roofing filters have helped in this situation?

In a recent WWFF outing we had a KX3 and an FT-817 set up. We separated the
antennas best we could but really didn't pay a lot of attention to it. I
believe the KX3 was on 40 and the 817 on 20 meters. The KX3 never heard the
817 but the 817 (no roofing filters I think) washed out when the KX3 was
keyed.

The radios were about 30 feet apart and the antennas maybe 40-50 feet apart.

If the KX3's success was due to the roofing filters installed, could some
sort of external filter added to the KX2 contribute to a solution? Is the
KX3 meant to play well with others while the KX2 is intended more for a
solo trip? I understand W4RT has optional roofing filters for the FT-817. I
wonder if he or someone might come out with a good option for the KX2.

Then again... am I way off base here?

73,
Kev K4VD

On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 2:08 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> At 30-40 ft separation on 15 and 20, your two antennas are probably within
> each other's near-field and each is thus "part" of the other.  The coupling
> in the near-field can be very high.  The general rules are:
>
> 1.  Separate the antennas by as much as possible, preferably several
> wavelengths.  A wavelength on 20 meters is ... well, ~20 meters [roughly 67
> international feet].
>
> 2.  Orient/position the antennas such that one is in the other's null.
> For half-wave dipoles, that's off the end and FD experience suggests
> colinear with each other and well separated works best. Note however, if
> they are within each other's near-field, orientation may have little if any
> effect [see #1 above].
>
> During the BPL bruhaha a number of years ago, I modeled my my non-resonant
> sloping-V and a couple of 12 KV distribution lines [which would have been
> the BPL carrier] together using NEC-2, similar to K9YC's suggestion, to see
> how badly I would disturb my neighbor's BPL I'net if he had it.  The
> coupling coefficient on 40 meters and higher was pretty stable at around
> -30 to -35 dB.  On 80 and 160, where the power line and antenna shared a
> near-field, the coupling was in the -10 to -15 dB range.
>
> As you describe them, and with perhaps 10 watts for easy math, the
> received power might be one or two tenths of a watt.  It's not real
> surprising the receivers "cried out in pain" [:-).
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
> Sparks NV USA
> Washoe County DM09dn
>
> On 4/16/2017 9:44 AM, kevino z wrote:
>
>> A friend and I both had our KX2 transceivers and some resonant end fed
>> antennas. He was on 15m and I was on 20m. Our antennas were placed about
>> 30-40 feet apart, as slopers with the radiating ends up 30+ feet in the air
>> using Jack-kite poles. The plane of the antenna's slope were perpendicular
>> to each other.
>> We were both on 10w SSB.
>>
>> Every time one of us keyed up, the other person's KX2 would experience a
>> nasty noise from the signal. Pre-amp was off, as was attenuator. My
>> question is this: Would the use of some bandpass filters have helped us?
>> This is a situation we are trying to resolve before operating QRP in a
>> similar park for a QSO party.
>>
>> If more distance between the antennas would have helped, what is the
>> proper way to determine the needed separation?
>>
>> I read the other day about someone in a car using 3 or 4 Elecraft radios
>> with antennas on the roof, so I imagine there has to be a way.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -Kevin (KK4YEL)
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Heathkit Tool.

[Kevin - K4VD]

Never bought from this place but this looks similar to the nut started of
old...

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/search.php?search_query=3215=0=0



On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:04 PM, Eric J  wrote:

> Very handy. It was called a Nut Starter. All mine became too worn to use.
> I tried soda straws of different diameter and they sort of work for awhile,
> but they tend to split. Turns out Mouser.com has them for about 2 bucks.
> Search for Menda, the manufacturer or "Nut Starter". I had them throw one
> in on a previous order. Looks the same only black so probably the original
> mfr.
>
> Menda might private brand them with "Elecraft" as a promotional giveaway
> at trade shows or something...
>
> Eric
>
> KE6US
>
>
>
>
> On 4/15/2017 1:37 PM, wa9fvp wrote:
>
> Years ago I built a Heathkit SB101 and other smaller projects. Normally
> they
> would include a very a handy tool.  It's a plastic, what I call, a "nut
> holding" tool.  Keeping it all these years I found it to be very handy
> while
> assembling my KPA500, KAT500 and K3S.
>
> <
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7629328/DSC00410.jpg>
>
>
>
> -
> Jack WA9FVP
>
> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/Heathkit-Tool-tp7629328.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Kevin - K4VD]

​If your default audio device in Sound --> Playback is the sound card
associated with your radio then Windows sounds will be sent to your radio.

Your web browser should be respecting the default audio device.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 to computer connection

[Kevin - K4VD]

Not a recommendation... never used one, but I think that is what these
types of adapters are used for. Somewhat popular for cell phones.

https://www.amazon.com/FolioGadgets-Headphone-Splitter-Separate-Microphone/dp/B01LRXI668/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8=1491356396=8-5=microphone+to+headphone+adapter



On Tue, Apr 4, 2017 at 9:06 PM, David Deitrick  wrote:

> I have a KX3, the KX3-PCKT Cable set and a computer that does not have
> separate mic & headphone jacks, but a single combination jack for both mic
> & phones. Any hints as to how to connect the mic & phone cables from the
> KX3 to the computer?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> KB8XG
> dhdeitr...@mac.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting a KX3+PX3 ?

[Kevin - K4VD]

https://gemsproducts.com/

:)

On Tue, Apr 4, 2017 at 12:19 AM, KD6QZX  wrote:

> Go to gemproducts.com I have mounts for just this need!   73 Scott AK6Q
>
>
> On Thursday, March 30, 2017 11:52 AM, Colin VE3MSC [via Elecraft] <
> ml-node+s365791n7628702...@n2.nabble.com> wrote:
>
>
>   Any recommendations on how to mount a KX3+PX3 ?  I want to try it out
> with
> my microwave setup, and would like to mount them on flat board or aluminum
> base, and was wondering what people have done for mounting brackets?
>
> Thanks in advance and 73,
>
> Colin VE3MSC
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> -
> K3 #348 KX3 #2499
> --
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Re: [Elecraft] Can Anyone recommended a great QRP Antenna and Antenna Pole for KX3

[Kevin - K4VD]

​End fed... I can throw it up about anywhere I go at a moment's notice and
make CW contacts at 5 watts with little effort. It packs small, works in
pretty much any position, easily repaired, fits in a camera bag with the
radio, battery and everything else needed for a day of fun.

Yesterday I was at Mason Neck WWFF KFF-1308. Dragged one end up a tree
almost vertical, ran between 3 and 10 watts and worked 14 stations
including Belgium with minimal effort. Time from start of setup to on the
air maybe 10 or 15 minutes.

Whatever other antenna you may find, it still might be worth bringing an
end fed along.

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] reply to digest

[Kevin - K4VD]

Grief? Offenders? Victims? Targets? Was there another riot or attack in a
major city or are we talking about a ham radio mailing list?

?
Kev K4VD

On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 3:38 PM, Graham Kimbell  wrote:

> It's _not_ a "digest problem".  It's a failure by those replying to take
> enough care with what they're doing and to understand the grief it causes
> others.  And a solution should be targeted at the offenders, not the
> victims.
>
> Graham (trying to take care)
>
>
> There is a solution to the digest problem.  Download individual posts!
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

[Kevin - K4VD]

On Fri, Mar 17, 2017 at 2:21 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> ​T​
> he what?


​He said K4. :)

​
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Re: [Elecraft] Augment KX3 or buy K3?

[Kevin - K4VD]

If it were me, I'd augment the KX3. It's just too good a rig to replace if
you already own it. There's not much out there that can top it unless
you're looking for bigger knobs maybe? Add the PX3 and KXPA100 and you have
the perfect setup no matter where you are. Add a KPA500 and voila! You're a
big gun. ;)

There is an advantage to having an extra rig available for backup. Maybe
another KX3 next year?

Nuff said.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] External speaker for kx3?

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Eddy:

I use Mackie CR4 powered speakers and love them... https://goo.gl/PTV8Eq

I also understand Bose powered speakers sound great also.

Kev K4VD

On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Eddy Avila  wrote:

> Greetings fellow kx3 ops.anyone have a suggestion for a
> decent-sounding external speaker for the kx3? Actually, the built-in
> speaker sounds good by itself, but I may want to "blast" CW around our RV
> campsite sometime.you know, to bug the neighbors and ward off evil
> spirits! HI HI
>
>
> tnx and 73
>
>
> ed
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Suggested External Battery

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I'm going to second the Bioenno solution. I use the BLF-1215W and it kept
my KX3 running through Field Day last year along with some other shorter
term field events. I often run the KX3 at 3 watts when portable with
intermittent forays into 5+ watts when deemed necessary.

I have not had any issues with RFI from their charger but, and I believe
this is common, what is quiet for some is noisy for others. Maybe the RFI
issues Jim reported has already been addressed? One thing I've been warned
about... LiFePO4 batteries have special charging requirements. Not any ole
charger will do.

73,
Kev K4VD
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[Elecraft] Follow-up... Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

I put the new KPA/KAT500 to work with my Flex 6500 this weekend in the
ARRL-DX-CW contest and I had an absolute blast! It was generally a casual
effort but netted 500 contacts, about 90ish being unique DX and qualified
for CW DXCC. I worked 80,40,20,15 (surprisingly productive on 15) and ran
the KPA between 250 and 500 watts. Mostly glitch-free operation.

I did happen to kill my wife's satellite reception. Tech coming this week
to check it out.
​[Tech arrived, wind damage to the dish, not me!] ​
Also, her TV would bring up different menus. This only happened on 40
meters above 190 watts. I will need to drop some ferrites on the various
leads up there and see how that works for her. The neighbors, about 160'
away, didn't complain but I'm bigger than they are so maybe they were too
scared. ;)

I used N1MM+ along with CW Skimmer. I set up the skimmer as a local cluster
and telnet'd to it from N1MM+. The bandmap was useful but the list of
available Qs and Mults was the key. I just worked my way top to bottom
(sorted by newest) and it was like shooting fish in a barrel. I think. I
never really shot a fish in a barrel. But it was very easy to work the
list, see a mult come in and jump on it immediately. At some points I
almost felt like I was in Run mode with how quickly I was nabbing contacts.
Again, it was a real pleasure working this way when everything just snaps
into place.

I have a hex beam for 20 meters. It is only about 10' off the ground on a
roof mount. I really felt the value of the hex finally. When selected over
the dipole the noise level dropped along with most of the signals. While
the S-meter read lower for the signal of interest there was also much less
noise and interference from other signals. I only saved one audio sample
showing dipole/hex a/b while working a Japan station. Not sure if
attachments make it on the reflector but if it does, the first few seconds
is dipole. Then I flip to the hex and  you can dig Japan out of the noise.
Being able to not only copy him but work him successfully was pretty
exciting for me. My QSOs with that part of the world are very rare.

Thanks Elecraft for all the fun. Thanks for making the KPA/KAT combo deal
and making such great equipment. Big thanks for making them valuable even
if not run with an Elecraft rig. I don't think I missed out on a single
feature of the amp/tuner combo running with the Flex.

​Unfortunately the audio was moderated out. ​It's posted here
 in case you're interested.


73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

It is worth bringing someone in to check the lines. A 220 VAC circuit might
be part of it but I'll have what I have checked out. The entry panel is on
the other side of the house unfortunately.

K

On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> I would suggest that you get an electrician to check the wiring to that
> outlet and the end in the breaker box.  That sounds like too much AC line
> drop to me.
>
> You may have to do that check on all outlets on that AC circuit.  If they
> are wired with "Backstab" connections, those connections should be changed
> to move the wires under the screwheads.
> Failure to do so can result in overheating a poor AC junction, and in the
> worst case a fire.
>
> I would attend to that matter before changing the transformer tap.
>
> If you are calling in an electrician, you might be better off to have him
> run a dedicated 240 volt line to the shack, but while that would solve the
> problem for the KPA500, my feeling is that you still would have a
> potentially hazardous situation in the AC circuit you are currently using.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 2/15/2017 4:51 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>
>> Hi Bill.
>>
>> A Fluke plugged into the same outlet shows 120.0 VAC unkeyed and 116.9 VAC
>> (60 V internal) keyed with 190 watts out. 114.4 (55 V internal) with 500
>> watts out.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Bill.

A Fluke plugged into the same outlet shows 120.0 VAC unkeyed and 116.9 VAC
(60 V internal) keyed with 190 watts out. 114.4 (55 V internal) with 500
watts out.

This is CW.

I could drop the tap down to RED (106-115 VAC). I kind of feel I'm on the
borderline. I'm trying to get a buddy to listen for my signal to see if
there's any anomalies he can identify. I'm getting a low hum at key down
but reading the book that seems about normal. Nothing bothersome.

Kev


On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 4:35 PM, Bill Johnson <k9...@live.com> wrote:

> Ken, From what I know, sounds like the line voltage may be low when keying
> down.  Measure it with the amp running if you can.  If it stays steady, you
> are ok.   I don't know your house wiring and fusing, check that.  #14 wire
> is good at 15 amps at the breaker and #12 is fused at 20 amps.  If the line
> voltage dips and nothing blows in the fuse box given these numbers, then
> might moving the tap.  The manual is clear on settings.  Depending on the
> line load and the house wiring size and fusing, then you might have to do a
> bit more.  My line voltage is closer to 125V and fused at 20, the amp stays
> above the 60 volts always and I run full power with SSB.  I left the
> default on my factory KPA500.  I think it comes set at the higher voltage.
>
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Kevin - K4VD
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 3:22 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500
>
> I feel like a kid with his first BB gun. Real nervous every time I pull
> the trigger. But so far things seem to be working as they should.
>
> I hooked the Flex 6500 through the KPA500 to the KAT500 after doing all
> the setup stuff. My supply voltage is 120.7 VAC and HV reads 73.7 until I
> key down. I used the yellow tap. It drops to 54 V which seems kind of low.
> The book says less than 60 volts with reduced output power and as low as 40.
> Not sure if I should move the tap from yellow to red. I'll leave it on
> yellow for now.
>
> A quick test of input vs. output shows around 14 A max:
>
> inout
> 10190
> 15290
> 20380
> 25460
> 30520
>
> That was on 40 meters. On 20 meters the output is a bit lower with 500
> being reached at 35 in. I'm setting the rig's max out to 35 watts.
>
> I'm not using DDUtils or the new USB band data stuff from Flex quite yet.
> I just have the basic setup of keying and letting the auto-band detect do
> its job. So far so good I think.
>
> Still some testing and getting over the nerves left to do. The antenna is
> a dipole except hex on 20.
>
> Did anyone else almost jump out of their chair the first time the KAT500
> tuned up? I'm having a good day! :)
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 1:33 PM, Kevin - K4VD <ke...@k4vd.net> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for your advice everyone. I just ordered the combo KPA/KAT
> package.
> > Now comes the long wait.
> >
> > Is it here yet?
> >
> > 73,
> > Kev K4VD
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 12:06 PM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Kev,
> >>
> >>I use Elecrafts KXUSBa USB to 3.5 serial for the KAT500 to PC/Flex.
> >> And USB to RS232 serial for the KPA500 to PC/Flex ( the KUSB included
> >> now included with the KPA500 should work).
> >>
> >> AL, K0VM
> >>
> >> On 2/10/2017 10:37 AM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Al...
> >>
> >> This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. The "500 watt radio" is
> >> perfect. I think I'm about to place the order for the combo
> >> KPA/KAT-500. Do you know of any accessories/additional cables I will
> >> need? Also, as I set things up, would you mind if I hit you up with
> additional questions?
> >>
> >> Kev
> >>
> >>
> >> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I find the KPA500/KAT500 a perfect match for my 6500.. The simple
> >>> set up is just a key line from the 6500 thru the KAT to the KPA.
> >>> With a couple of USB cables to the back of the 6500, both will track
> frequency/band changes.
> >>> DDUtil will give you a bit more automation with the USB cables
> >>> attached to the PC instead.
> >>>
> >>> Its almost a plug and play, and almost acts like as a 500 watt radio
> >>> rather separate boxes
> >>>
> >

Re: [Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

I feel like a kid with his first BB gun. Real nervous every time I pull the
trigger. But so far things seem to be working as they should.

I hooked the Flex 6500 through the KPA500 to the KAT500 after doing all the
setup stuff. My supply voltage is 120.7 VAC and HV reads 73.7 until I key
down. I used the yellow tap. It drops to 54 V which seems kind of low. The
book says less than 60 volts with reduced output power and as low as 40.
Not sure if I should move the tap from yellow to red. I'll leave it on
yellow for now.

A quick test of input vs. output shows around 14 A max:

inout
10190
15290
20380
25460
30520

That was on 40 meters. On 20 meters the output is a bit lower with 500
being reached at 35 in. I'm setting the rig's max out to 35 watts.

I'm not using DDUtils or the new USB band data stuff from Flex quite yet. I
just have the basic setup of keying and letting the auto-band detect do its
job. So far so good I think.

Still some testing and getting over the nerves left to do. The antenna is a
dipole except hex on 20.

Did anyone else almost jump out of their chair the first time the KAT500
tuned up? I'm having a good day! :)

73,
Kev K4VD


On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 1:33 PM, Kevin - K4VD <ke...@k4vd.net> wrote:

> Thanks for your advice everyone. I just ordered the combo KPA/KAT package.
> Now comes the long wait.
>
> Is it here yet?
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 12:06 PM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Kev,
>>
>>I use Elecrafts KXUSBa USB to 3.5 serial for the KAT500 to PC/Flex.
>> And USB to RS232 serial for the KPA500 to PC/Flex ( the KUSB included now
>> included with the KPA500 should work).
>>
>> AL, K0VM
>>
>> On 2/10/2017 10:37 AM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>>
>> Hi Al...
>>
>> This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. The "500 watt radio" is
>> perfect. I think I'm about to place the order for the combo KPA/KAT-500. Do
>> you know of any accessories/additional cables I will need? Also, as I set
>> things up, would you mind if I hit you up with additional questions?
>>
>> Kev
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I find the KPA500/KAT500 a perfect match for my 6500.. The simple set up
>>> is just a key line from the 6500 thru the KAT to the KPA.  With a couple of
>>> USB cables to the back of the 6500, both will track frequency/band changes.
>>> DDUtil will give you a bit more automation with the USB cables attached to
>>> the PC instead.
>>>
>>> Its almost a plug and play, and almost acts like as a 500 watt radio
>>> rather separate boxes
>>>
>>> AL, K0VM
>>>
>>> On 2/9/2017 8:49 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi... with all the hoopla over the new $7K Flex amplifier I was feeling a
>>> little power envy so went on a search for options. I own an Elecraft KX3
>>> and absolutely love the rig quality so I'm thinking about the KPA500/KAT500
>>> combination assuming I'll get the same quality equipment.
>>>
>>> Is anyone running this combination with the Flex 6500 who might share their
>>> thoughts, configurations, hints & kinks?
>>>
>>> I'm thinking the combination makes sense for me because (my decision
>>> points):
>>>
>>> 1) Being a low power operator, 500 watts seems a lot more manageable than a
>>> nuclear powered 1.5 KW setup. It seems like a good, safe step.
>>>
>>> 2) No electrician required. I think I can run it off 110 VAC already in my
>>> shack.
>>>
>>> 3) If I understand correctly, there is little or no integration effort
>>> required. I'm looking at putting it inline with the RF path and adding a
>>> PTT connection. Voila.
>>>
>>> 4) The KX3 is able to easily tune my 600 ohm ladder line fed (via 4:1
>>> BALUN) 80 meter dipole on any band so I would guess the KAT500 wouldn't
>>> have an issue.
>>>
>>> Is there a reason I shouldn't consider this setup with the Flex? The only
>>> other thing that caught my eye was the ACOM 1010 which would also require
>>> an external tuner.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Kev K4VD
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>>> Message delivered to al.k...@yahoo.com
>>>
>>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: be careful what you open

[Kevin - K4VD]

Do people still have problems with SPAM? I've noticed a significant drop in
the past year or so. Using Google GMail, they catch most of the spam before
I ever see it. I do check my spam folder at times just in case but boy oh
boy SPAM seems to have become a lot less of a problem lately.

In the case of the OP, he's using a disposable address. I think Lynn is
giving us a warning to be careful and not so much complaining he received
spam. I think?

I 100% agree... careful what you open. Also be aware, your email is already
known to anyone who cares to dig. No real covert technique required. For
that matter, so's your home address.

Kev K4VD

On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 4:46 PM, Reuben Popp  wrote:

> Let's not be hasty in our judgement...
>
> To be fair, it would be trivial to write a small script to harvest any
> string that looks like an email address that follows the form of
> /\w\sat\s\w\.(com|net|org|tld)/ (that's a word followed by a space
> followed
> by 'at' followed by space followed by a word followed by a period and a
> tld).
>
> Just saying... our email addresses are plastered all over, and the above
> form of obfuscation is fairly easy to defeat.  And then, there's places
> where it's not obfuscated in the least, such as
>
> http://lists.contesting.com/_rtty/2015-01/msg00047.html
>
> which contains your "exclusive" address in its entirety with no
> obfuscation.
>
> Not trying to call you out here, I'm just pointing out that there's a
> million ways for me to acquire an address (if I were up to nefarious
> designs).
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 3:01 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <
> k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com> wrote:
>
> > I'd like to thank the person who opened an E-Mail attachment that should
> > not have been opened.
> >
> > The attachment contained a trojan horse -- malware that then harvested
> > E-Mail addresses from their machine.
> >
> > I know it was a list member, because my E-Mail address for this list is
> > exclusively used for this list, and I'm now getting unwanted "spoofed"
> mail
> > telling me about packages that are undeliverable, or that I need to
> appear
> > in court.
> >
> > Those E-Mails have attachments, allegedly containing the details of my
> > offense or how to claim the package.
> >
> > The E-Mail is very generic.  If you read it critically, there is nothing
> > that says it is from a legitimate shipper, legitimate court -- just a
> > slightly scary call to action.
> >
> > It's another trojan horse.
> >
> > It seems to me that after 3,000 years, we would have learned to keep the
> > metaphorical horse outside our cities, but no, there are some who say
> "look
> > at the pretty horse!" and we all suffer.
> >
> > Thank you for your future consideration.  I'll go change my E-Mail
> address
> > now.
> >
> > 73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1/KX3 Accessory Cable Source (for external key)

[Kevin - K4VD]

This might work:
https://smile.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Right-Angle-Plug/dp/B004GIKSN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1486936318=8-1=70-3536+%281%29

Haven't used them but happened to be on Amazon Smile when I saw the email.

Kev K4VD


On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 4:44 PM,  wrote:

> Who can point me to a source for a right-angle 3.5mm stereo plug to bare
> wire cable for the KX3?  I wish to make up some cables for outboard
> straight keys and bugs.  I would solder either a 3.5mm mono or 1/4" mono
> in-line jack to accommodate the external key.
>
> TNX fer any help es 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
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Re: [Elecraft] The market for Full Kit Radios?

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hey Harry... I hope you don't mind if I toss another idea out there. It has
to do with a conversation going on in another forum I'm part of and thought
it might make an interesting addition to your thoughts.

I do not believe the homebrew spirit of Amateur Radio is dead. I do believe
that there has been somewhat of a shift in thinking. As much a part of any
ham radio station today I think software falls right in there with
antennas, tuners and transceivers.

What if, instead of buying a hardware kit, you could buy the components of
software. Maybe some brilliant programmers can put together the building
blocks of the next great logging or PSK-31 terminal program? These
entrepreneurial programmers put together "kits" that you and I could key in
to something free like Visual Studio or whatever the current Linux or Apple
environment is. Along with the keying in, the programmers are guiding us
through the software from maybe simple how-to-program to more complex how
to interface with a certain rig's API.

I like to think that today's keyboard is equivalent to yesterday's
soldering iron. Both are responsible for the start of a lot of creativity.

Just a thought.

73,
Kev K4VD


On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 2:49 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> For me a large part of the enjoyment of Amateur radio is the process of
> building the radios and accessories.
>
> I tend to like kits because all the truly hard work making the board
> punching and painting the case etc has been done for me and I get the fun
> of building it and then using something that I have built.
>
> I would love to see an updated version of the K2 as a full kit, but that
> leaves me wondering is there really a market for full kits?
>
> I was curious as to what others think about the market for full kit radios.
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Kevin - K4VD]

​So what we are saying here is that all the local and DX QSOs we make from
a picnic bench with an end fed or random wire thrown up in a tree and a
short or no counterpoise doesn't really happen or, at best, is a fluke. The
end fed is only 10% efficient (did I get that right) and most of our QRP
signals are going to heat worms. Pretty hopeless situation I guess. ​I
might have to just stick with the local repeater and Google Hangouts for
communications.

Or, for those of you that are thinking the situation isn't so hopeless,
grab your portable antenna, head out to the campsite, throw your wire up in
the tree and I'll catch you on the air. Let's warm up the worms.

73,
Kev


On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 11:54 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> Ha, ha!!! Well put Wes!
>
> Some mountain portables erect low "horizontal" antennas on the side of a
> steep mountain. The result is a very low angle of radiation because, even
> though the main lobe is "straight up" from the mountainside from the
> antenna, the slope puts that lobe at a fairly low angle relative to the
> earth.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes
> Stewart
> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:02 PM
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW
>
> It is with some reluctance that I smack this whole EFHW tarbaby, but here
> goes.
> Comments in no particular order:
>
> 1)  A resonant antenna (even one that is self-resonant), e.g. one with a
> non-reactive feedpoint, isn't necessarily "efficient."  A
> quarter-wavelength monopole over lossy earth leaps to mind.
>
> 2)  A non-resonant antenna isn't necessarily inefficient.  The ever
> popular G5RV isn't resonant on the band of interest (20M) but when fed
> appropriately, was as efficient as a resonant dipole.
>
> 3)  Consider a BC band 1/2 wavelength vertical antenna.  Does the station
> designer say, "Well, this EFHW doesn't really doesn't need much of a
> counterpoise, so I'll just throw a 100' long wire on the ground and call it
> good enough?"  No, he install 120 radials that are even longer than the
> ones he would use under a 1/4 wavelength monopole.  Devoldere in "Low-Band
> DXing, Chapter 9, Section 4.3 says: "Here comes another surprise. A
> terrible misconception about voltage-fed verticals is that they do not
> require either a good ground or an extensive radial system.'"  Later in the
> same section he says, "Therefore it is even more important to have a good
> radial system with a voltage-fed antenna such as the voltage-fed T or a λ/2
> vertical. These verticals require longer radials to do their job
> efficiently compared to current-fed verticals."
>
> 3)  When you backpacking mountain goats say, "Hey my wire isn't a
> vertical, it's mostly horizontal", I say, if your radio is sitting on a
> boulder or the ground, it's a vertical and your wire-on-the-ground
> counterpoise proves it.
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
>
>
> On 2/11/2017 2:33 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> > All efficient antenna systems are "resonant" (jX=0) but the shorthand
> > often used is "resonant" to mean "self resonant". That is true of any
> > 1/4 wavelength long radiator (again our common shorthand is usually
> > "1/4 wave
> > wire") or any multiple thereof worked against ground. It is also true
> > of any half wave length radiator or any multiple thereof. (Note that
> > these are electrical lengths, taking into account any surroundings
> > including the radiator itself.)
> >
> > While self-resonant antennas do not present a reactive load to the
> > source of RF power, the value of R, the resistance, may vary widely.
> > There is nothing magic about the 50 ohm load most of our transmitters
> are designed for.
> >
> > However, a half wave radiator fed at the center presents a resistive
> > value near 50 ohms when fed at typical heights above ground (in free
> > space it is
> > 75 ohms). Half wave antennas became very popular after WWII because
> > 50-ohm coaxial feed line became abundant and cheap on the "surplus"
> > market and Hams were taking steps to deal with needing to avoid
> > interfering with the rapidly growing number of TV sets in nearby
> > homes, including the Ham's own living room.
> >
> > In the following decades, greater and greater demands on harmonic
> > suppression have led to Ham transmitters with output filters
> > specifically designed for a 50 ohm load instead of being able to match
> > a wide range of load impedances.
> >
> > So we have now moved the wide-range output network that was in
> > Grandpa's Ham transmitter out of the transmitter and into what we call
> an "Antenna Tuner".
> > But, of course it does not "tune" an antenna at all. It's just a
> > matching network to be sure the transmitter is delivering power to a
> > load close to 50 ohms and non-reactive.
> >
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Wes 

Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Kevin - K4VD]

Brian:

The end fed I use uses a stub for 20 meters. When I set it up I tuned the
antenna for 40 meters. Then I added the stub 1/2 down the antenna and
trimmed that for best SWR on 20 meters. Worked exactly as expected with an
antenna analyzer.

K


On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 2:03 PM, Brian Pietrzyk  wrote:

> This thread has really given me things to try when earth tilt/absence of
> white rain is back in our favour. Great group of folks on this forum btw.
>
> The many contributions to this thread have given me the confidence to try
> end feds (for the first time) on my up coming trip to HI9 land. I'm packing
> a few end fed lengths for whatever  the trees on the resort will support.
> I'll start with Wayne's 25ft radiator and 25 ft wire on the ground
> suggestion first. Again this untried for me.
>
> Before getting my kx3 I used an FT817 and the ATAS25. Worked fine when 20
> to 10m openings were easier to come by a few years ago. Now my thoughts are
> about the reactions I'll get throwing something at a tree or two on the
> resort near the beach. I've managed to strip my CrankIR down to 12lbs so
> I'm taking it anyway only because I've used it/know it. The goal is to no
> longer feel the need to cram it into charter flight size and weight
> constraints and keep it for car trips instead. I'm guessing throwing a half
> full water bottle will suffice. Corrections invited.
>
> Now my thoughts are about permanent end fed resonant wires (vs dipoles)
> for the home shack. I currently have a home brew 80/40 centre fed dipole
> tied from the house to a tree in the woods. If that were instead an end fed
> resonant wire fed by a 9:1 at house end things could get much simpler (and
> less saggy) coax wise.
>
> Now comes the fantasy thinking... What about making it an end fed multi
> band by either putting traps in the 80m end fed or better still adding on a
> couple of fan EFHW wires for 40 and 20? Anyone tried this? How would the
> efficiencies compare to their centre fed trap or fan dipole counterparts
> respectively?
>
> Then there is that 160m antenna I'm think about putting up this summer...
>
> Brian ve3bwp
>
> Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:05:56 -0600
> From: K9MA 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Here's the old trade-off between radiating efficiency and ease of
> matching for an end fed wire. The EFHW is more efficient, because little
> power goes into the ground system, but its high impedance is harder to
> match.  A wire of a different length may be easier to match, but more
> power goes into the ground system, where it doesn't radiate much.  Both
> will work but, I believe, on average the EFHW will be a bit better.  Is
> it worth the trouble?  Who knows?
>
> Antenna discussions have long had a tendency to focus on SWR.  Low SWR
> does not necessarily mean an antenna is effective.  There's an old
> saying, "The SWR of a dummy load is 1:1."
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
> On 2/10/2017 09:56, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Brian,
> >
> > If your end fed antenna is actually a halfwave (which is what EFHW
> > means), the answer is no.
> >
> > The solution for portable work is to use a length that is not a
> > halfwave - 58 feet is known to work well for 40 thru 10 meters when
> > used with a 13 foot counterpoise.  Double the lengths if you want 80
> > meters.
> >
> > With that antenna and counterpoise length, dispense with the balun for
> > portable operations, and use a BNC to Binding post adapter instead (no
> > coax).
> >
> > If you need to use a short length of coax, you can put the balun at
> > the end of the coax, and you can try both the 1:1 and 4:1 positions to
> > see which provides the better match.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks for your advice everyone. I just ordered the combo KPA/KAT package.
Now comes the long wait.

Is it here yet?

73,
Kev K4VD

On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 12:06 PM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Kev,
>
>I use Elecrafts KXUSBa USB to 3.5 serial for the KAT500 to PC/Flex. And
> USB to RS232 serial for the KPA500 to PC/Flex ( the KUSB included now
> included with the KPA500 should work).
>
> AL, K0VM
>
> On 2/10/2017 10:37 AM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>
> Hi Al...
>
> This is exactly what I was hoping to hear. The "500 watt radio" is
> perfect. I think I'm about to place the order for the combo KPA/KAT-500. Do
> you know of any accessories/additional cables I will need? Also, as I set
> things up, would you mind if I hit you up with additional questions?
>
> Kev
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Al K0VM <al.k...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I find the KPA500/KAT500 a perfect match for my 6500.. The simple set up
>> is just a key line from the 6500 thru the KAT to the KPA.  With a couple of
>> USB cables to the back of the 6500, both will track frequency/band changes.
>> DDUtil will give you a bit more automation with the USB cables attached to
>> the PC instead.
>>
>> Its almost a plug and play, and almost acts like as a 500 watt radio
>> rather separate boxes
>>
>> AL, K0VM
>>
>> On 2/9/2017 8:49 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>>
>> Hi... with all the hoopla over the new $7K Flex amplifier I was feeling a
>> little power envy so went on a search for options. I own an Elecraft KX3
>> and absolutely love the rig quality so I'm thinking about the KPA500/KAT500
>> combination assuming I'll get the same quality equipment.
>>
>> Is anyone running this combination with the Flex 6500 who might share their
>> thoughts, configurations, hints & kinks?
>>
>> I'm thinking the combination makes sense for me because (my decision
>> points):
>>
>> 1) Being a low power operator, 500 watts seems a lot more manageable than a
>> nuclear powered 1.5 KW setup. It seems like a good, safe step.
>>
>> 2) No electrician required. I think I can run it off 110 VAC already in my
>> shack.
>>
>> 3) If I understand correctly, there is little or no integration effort
>> required. I'm looking at putting it inline with the RF path and adding a
>> PTT connection. Voila.
>>
>> 4) The KX3 is able to easily tune my 600 ohm ladder line fed (via 4:1
>> BALUN) 80 meter dipole on any band so I would guess the KAT500 wouldn't
>> have an issue.
>>
>> Is there a reason I shouldn't consider this setup with the Flex? The only
>> other thing that caught my eye was the ACOM 1010 which would also require
>> an external tuner.
>>
>> 73,
>> Kev K4VD
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>>
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[Elecraft] Considering KPA500/KAT500 Combo with Flex 6500

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi... with all the hoopla over the new $7K Flex amplifier I was feeling a
little power envy so went on a search for options. I own an Elecraft KX3
and absolutely love the rig quality so I'm thinking about the KPA500/KAT500
combination assuming I'll get the same quality equipment.

Is anyone running this combination with the Flex 6500 who might share their
thoughts, configurations, hints & kinks?

I'm thinking the combination makes sense for me because (my decision
points):

1) Being a low power operator, 500 watts seems a lot more manageable than a
nuclear powered 1.5 KW setup. It seems like a good, safe step.

2) No electrician required. I think I can run it off 110 VAC already in my
shack.

3) If I understand correctly, there is little or no integration effort
required. I'm looking at putting it inline with the RF path and adding a
PTT connection. Voila.

4) The KX3 is able to easily tune my 600 ohm ladder line fed (via 4:1
BALUN) 80 meter dipole on any band so I would guess the KAT500 wouldn't
have an issue.

Is there a reason I shouldn't consider this setup with the Flex? The only
other thing that caught my eye was the ACOM 1010 which would also require
an external tuner.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Thanks Scott. I use the Par EndFedZ EF-10/20/40 and EF-20/40 depending on
what's in the bag at the moment. These are resonant and I'm assuming the
KX3 tuner is enough to keep the SWR low. The radio always seems happy.

I will add up to 8 feet of wire next time out and try some A/B tests.

During this thread there's been a couple of comments that kind of challenge
my way of thinking. I would never have thought a random wire would be
considered superior to a resonant antenna. I also don't equated high SWR
with high loss. My home antenna is comprised of a dipole fed with 600 ohm
ladder line through a 4:1 BALUN. It's about the best antenna setup I've
ever had and I use it on all bands 80 (where it is resonant) through 6. The
KX3 and the Flex tunes it nicely and the log fills up.

Threads like this get me questioning everything I thought I knew. That's
not a bad thing.

Kev K4VD​

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 5:37 PM, K9MA <k...@sdellington.us> wrote:

> On 2/9/2017 16:28, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
>
>> I work portable with about 1 ft of coax to my end-fed. Never really had a
>> problem making contacts. Guess I could do a lot better with a longer coax
>> or with a counterpoise?
>>
>> Kev - K4VD
>>
> It wouldn't hurt to add a counterpoise of 6-8 feet, just a single wire on
> the ground opposite the antenna, but it may not make much difference.  (I'm
> assuming EFHW, not random or quarter wave wire.) That short coax, the
> radio, the headphone cable, etc. is probably serving as an adequate
> counterpoise.  You definitely do NOT want a longer coax, unless there's a
> matching network at the feedpoint to keep the SWR low.  Even then, the long
> coax would only be advantageous if it allows you to place the antenna in a
> more favorable location.
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
>
> --
> Scott  K9MA
>
> k...@sdellington.us
>
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Kevin - K4VD]

I work portable with about 1 ft of coax to my end-fed. Never really had a
problem making contacts. Guess I could do a lot better with a longer coax
or with a counterpoise?

Kev - K4VD

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 5:22 PM, Doug Person  wrote:

> I am feeding my end-feds with over 100 feet of coax and they work just
> fine.
>
> Doug - K0DXV
>
>
> On 2/9/2017 1:21 PM, K9MA wrote:
>
>> Well said, Bill!
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Scott  K9MA
>>
>> On 2/9/2017 10:39, Bill Leonard N0CU wrote:
>>
>>> The reason your antenna was a lot less finicky with a bit of coax is
>>> that the
>>> EFHW antenna requires a return path for the RF field. Theoretically,
>>> without
>>> a return path, the antenna won't radiate at all. The recommended setup
>>> for
>>> this antenna is for a .05 wavelength counterpoised to be used. EZNEC
>>> models
>>> indicate that there is little benefit to going much longer than .05
>>> wavelengths, and a quarter wavelength is actually less effective than the
>>> shorter lengths.  If no counterpoise is used, then coax shield becomes
>>> the
>>> counterpoise by default.
>>>
>>> Bill  N0CU
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] February Special!!

[Kevin - K4VD]

On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 10:28 AM,  wrote:

> Thanks; I didn't even know about the sale until you brought it up. You can
> always use the Wilma Flintstone method "charge it!" Now I need to try to
> figure out a way to explain this to the xyl.
> Alan Wong, KK6WA
>

​I'm not sure how well that will work. I think you need to scheme this one
out.

"Fred is still the simple man, striving to be the king of his castle; Wilma
is still the tolerant* but not-indulging* wife, and Barney (with his wife,
Betty, and infant son, Bamm-Bamm) is still the original wingman, whose
loyalty to Fred often outweighs his common sense."

​I think the key to your solution is the wingman. You could purchase the
KAT500/KPA500 for your Barney and tell your Wilma you are paying him back
for years of loyalty and friendship. If you go this route, let me know. I
can be your Barney. :)

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun

[Kevin - K4VD]

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 8:53 PM, Thomas Horsten  wrote:

> The ATU typically sits at the rig end where a balun sits at the antenna
> feedpoint


​There's the difference. I'm feeding my dipole with 600 ohm ladder line so
my 4:1 BALUN is right outside my window. The coax (heavily beaded) is only
about 3 feet long.​ I need to get the analyzer on it but I'm having
difficulty tuning up on 75 meters. Pretty much everything else tunes fine.

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun

[Kevin - K4VD]

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <
k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com> wrote:

>
> That doesn't say the antenna would radiate it, but the transmitter could
> make power and the tuner/transmission line would deliver it to the radiat


​Why wouldn't the antenna radiate it? Seems to me if you can deliver power
then what's not being radiated as heat would be radiated as RF. I have
weird ideas about how all this works.

One thing I think would be great to have, especially built in as part of an
antenna tuner, is a switchable BALUN. When someone needs to throw up random
antennas it would be handy to be able to just switch in the appropriate
ratio. Can a BALUN be tapped maybe? It seems it would extend the range of
internally antenna tuners also. I should know this stuff. But I don't.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Well now I don't think anyone said the wirewounds wouldn't work just that
you'd need to check them out. Give it a shot and see if the SWR is as
expected. I've used cheap carbon comp resistors in the past​. Heck, a light
 bulb (incandescent) probably wouldn't do a bad job.

As for your other idea, using ladder line, it's about the best choice for
QRP I think as it generally is lower loss. I use 600 ohm ladder line but I
don't know if that's any better or worse electrically than 450 ohm window
line or even 300 ohm tv line.

Kev
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Plenty close enough. Only issue I can think of (besides the normal safety
stuff) is to make sure the resistors are not of the wirewound variety.

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Posting serial numbers

[Kevin - K4VD]

​It might be that the first few numbers kind of indicates the series or age
of the device. This seems common when selling many things. It probably
isn't a secret.

I don't know what someone could do with the serial number of a radio but
who knows these days. That and your date of birth might get all your bank
accounts hacked. (just kidding)

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and FLDIGI

[Kevin - K4VD]

John, that's exactly why I was asking about I/Q - to free up the phone jack
but a wide spectrum display would have been nice in fldigi.

Ask Barry suggests, keeping the I/Q jack open allows the use of CW Skimmer
(use it on my Flex, not on the KX3 yet) or Win4K3. I own win4k3 but not
fully using it yet. I'll slowly work into integrating other tools into a
package but each one does add it's own complexity to the mix.

73,
Kev K4VD

On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 5:01 PM, John Pitz  wrote:

> There is also no harm in using IQ.  If you are jumping from digital to
> ssb you may not want to be continuously plugging and unplugging any more
> cables than necessary.
>
>
> On Fri, 2016-12-02 at 12:41 -0800, Walter Underwood wrote:
>
> > There is no advantage to using the I/Q output for fldigi. It only cares
> about one channel,
> > so use the regular audio output.
> >
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> >
> > > On Dec 2, 2016, at 12:25 PM, Jim Brown 
> wrote:
> > >
> > > On Fri,12/2/2016 12:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > >> Fldigi and other similar applications only use the left channel.
> > >
> > > Yes. MMTTY can be set to decode L or R, but only transmits Mono. 2Tone
> (an excellent RTTY program) can easily be set to RX and TX on L or R.
> WSJT-X can easily select L and R for both TX and RX, but WSJT10 is left
> channel only. Development of WSJT has shifted to WSJT-X, with more
> modulation schemes added to WSJT-X as time goes by, and it is intended to
> eventually replace WSJT10 for all modes. Before you fall in love with any
> digital mode software, check out its limitations in this regard.
> > >
> > > 73, Jim K9YC
> > >
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and FLDIGI

[Kevin - K4VD]

​OK - I got the answer concerning I/Q audio to fldigi. No advantage as
fldigi does not process I/Q signals. Maybe I'll drop a feature request on
the fldigi forum. It would be nice to see a nice, wide swath of a band. I
know Win4K3​ and PX3 and maybe some other tools are available but I was
kind of looking to simplify things. Fldigi seems to have most everything
wrapped into one package (many modes, logging, rig control, waterfall)
except support for I/Q and wsjt modes. I'm trying to find that balance
between having it all and reducing complexity. Figure that one out! :)

Thanks again,
Kevin K4VD
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[Elecraft] KX3 and FLDIGI

[Kevin - K4VD]

When using the KX3 with fldigi can I use the RX I/Q output from the radio
to the computer? I can't find any reference to i/q in the fldigi docs so
I'm assuming the answer is no but thought I'd ask before giving up.

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Firmware Update Question

[Kevin - K4VD]

Gotcha! Thanks. So if I want to play with beta software (which I often
enjoy doing) I need to check the FTP site. Otherwise, if I stick with
production software I should go with the utility.

Things seem to be working real nicely so I'll stay where I am at the
moment. It's a great little box.

Thanks again,
Kev K4VD

On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 4:13 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

>
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[Elecraft] PX3 Firmware Update Question

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi... I just got my new (used) PX3 and I'm going through the firmware
update process. I downloaded the latest Elecraft PX3 Utility (1.15.8.1). It
shows I have firmware revision 01.45 installed and that 01.39 is available.

What did I miss?

73 & Thanks,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Narrow Gaming Keyboard and Giant Mouse Pads - K-Pod

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I enjoy shack shots and this batch was great Max. I particularly liked the
1899 photo.

I don't have a K-pod but something similar for my Flex setup (FlexRemote).
I keep it on the left side so I can keep my right hand on the key or mouse.

Kev, K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] G4WPW SK

[Kevin - K4VD]

Try this: ​http://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html
​

On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 5:25 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> G4WPW website
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[Elecraft] OT: Begali Traveller, Replace Finger Pieces?

[Kevin - K4VD]

I purchased the Begali Traveler from a list member and love it. I ordered
up a set of aluminum finger pieces but not sure how to install them. I'm
concerned I'll unscrew something and bits and pieces will fall out... NOT
mechanically inclined.

Has someone here replaced the Traveler finger pieces that can give me some
quick instructions?

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Camping radio ops: then and now

[Kevin - K4VD]

​For me, portable operations went from a rare, scheduled event requiring a
team of people and equipment to a small Nikon camera bag that fits in a
corner of a bag on my motorcycle. In other words, it went from a chore to a
joy.
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Re: [Elecraft] how to optimize end-fed?

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Holger:

I just finished reading an article that may answer your question:
http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9501046.pdf

If I'm understanding it correctly, the inductor's Q factor is the issue.
The Cout capacitance should be set to the highest value possible with the L
and Cin supporting that for lowest SWR.  I think this means the higher the
inductor's Q the less losses seen in the matching network. Does this mean
the higher the inductance (higher inductive reactance) the higher Q and the
lower loss? That's how it is looking to me.

I don't know what kind of matching network is used  in the Elecraft ATU.
I'm hoping someone with a better understanding can verify or correct what
I've said.

73,
Kevin K4VD



On Sat, Oct 1, 2016 at 10:39 AM, Holger Schurig <holgerschu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> 2016-09-30 21:59 GMT+02:00 Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net>:
>
> > This is reminiscent of one of the five volumes in Douglas Adams' trilogy,
> > "The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy."
>
>
> I understand that either my english is very weird. Or that I can't explain
> things good.
>
> But that you and Davidthink that they must make a 42 joke on this is
> definitely weird.
>
>
> The question was: I can query the KX3 ATU for what it settled. I have an
> end fed antenna and so I have various variables:
>
> - used tap (1:4, 1:9, 1:16)
> - some random length wire
> - band
>
> And forget an "optimal wire", I might just have switched from 12m to 10m.
> Or back. Depends on what I find, propagation ...   so assume that my wire
> is just some random wire, not necessary optimal for the band. And also, in
> the context of my question, this is entirely irrelavant. I was never asking
> about wire lengths, this is easy to read up. Okay, back to my scenario: I
> just switched the new band. I'm not going to let my portable glass fiber
> down because of that and change the wire length! Instead I do what a lazy
> OM does: I press the TUNE button and the internal magical antenna tuner
> does it's job. It's actually so magic, that it will do it's job on all
> taps. On the 1:4 tap, on the 1:9 tap. And on the 1:16 tap. Woah! But I can
> query the ATU for what inductance and capacitance it used to do the match.
> And so my simple question was: would a lower inductance have less losses
> inside the ATU?
>
> And please: if you don't know the answer of if you think that there is no
> answer, than just stay silent.
>
>
> 73, Holger
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Re: [Elecraft] Attn: Jim Brown; KX3 Equalizer & Compression Settings

[Kevin - K4VD]

https://observer.wunderwood.org/2015/09/09/transmit-audio-and-compression-with-the-elecraft-kx3/

Hope this helps.

Kev K4VD

On Wed, Sep 28, 2016 at 6:49 PM,  wrote:

>
>
> Jim;
>
> Several months ago, I inquired on the Reflector about the optimum
> TX
> Equalizer and compression settings for best performance on the KX3.
>
> You provided excellent feedback but unfortunately, I have misplaced
> the printout.
>
> It would be greatly appreciated if you would re-post them.
>
> Tnx  I owe you
>
> John Kiracofe Jr.
>
> KN4XX
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 talk this coming Friday night

[Kevin - K4VD]

Record and share? Or stream live? That would be cool.

On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 11:13 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> If you'll be in the San Mateo, CA area on Friday night, and your social
> calendar isn't quite full, we'd love to see you at the San Mateo Radio Club
> meeting. I'll be doing a talk on portable and hand-held operation, with
> application to the KX2 and KX3 transceivers. The meeting is at the
> Beresford Recreation Center, 7:30 PM.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!

[Kevin - K4VD]

As mentioned, you lose 70 cm. I do have the 2 m module installed but
haven't had much opportunity to use it. The roofing filters and the overall
receiver performance of the K3 will floor you compared to the 817 (I owned
an 817ND). Working PSK-31 with a CW key is a blast (as a alternative to
dragging the extra equipment around).

I have a Flex-6500 on the desk. I have been sorely tempted numerous times
to simplify, sell and go with a KPA-100 and KX-3 combination to replace it.
I've done many side-by-side receive comparisons and the KX3 holds its own
nicely in typical conditions.

So, not sure what you should do but as one that had the 817ND and now a KX3
I have never looked back. I suggest the roofing filter and the antenna
tuner at minimum. I'm not a fan of the current internal charger option -
that needs work. I use an external battery and fall back to internal only
when necessary. The paddles work very well for me. I also have the Begali
but the KXPD3 is good. Everything else (and I got it all) is just fluff I
think.

Whatever you choose... have a blast!

73,
Kevin K4VD

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 4:08 PM, Barry <k3...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Brian,
> I would say the KX3 and KXPA100 is a good choice. I have this setup
> now, and I use it for everything, QRP Field Day to contesting, and
> everything in between. I have used mine on CW, SSB, and various digital
> modes. It's been amazing. In my opinion, it is the most flexible radio
> being sold today, and its performance is limited more by the environment
> than the radio itself.
>
> I have mine set up to use spectrum display using Win4K3 by way of a
> good sound card that is driven by the radio's I output that Elecraft so
> thoughtfully provided. I use this same output for CW Skimmer that gives me
> local spotting over ~130 KHz of spectrum in the band I'm on. I also have
> Ham Radio Deluxe connected for cluster spots and logging.
>
> Digital modes are handled via a SignaLink USB interface that takes the
> audio from the KX3 and uses its own sound card. I use the aux out on the
> back of the SignaLink to drive a pair of powered computer speakers. This
> way I never need to change anything when going from SSB to digital except
> to remove the mic and plug in the SignaLink in its place.
>
> To address your concerns about interfacing to the KX3 with a SignaLink
> USB, it's pretty easy. You will need a cable for the radio and reset the
> jumpers, or get the prewired header plug. The SignaLink USB does control
> the radio, no problem. I would say go for it.
>
>
>
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk" <ve3...@gmail.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 9/12/2016 3:39:11 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
>
> Hello All,
>>
>> Not an Elecraft owner yet but making plans to be one soon. I’m just
>> starting the research.
>>
>> A close friend is all Elecraft and I'm impressed. Even meeting the
>> company owners and designers at Dayton has me sold on them.
>>
>> My QRP rig today is an FT817 which I love (I have been known to sleep
>> with it under my pillow lol) and have had a few memorable QRP
>> mini-expiditions on vacation trips to Central America, France and around
>> the province.
>>
>> Currently my primary base rig is a Kenwood TS590 no complaints about it
>> so far. I have been approached by prospective buyers with reasonable offers
>> to sell both these rigs. So I am giving serious thought to using this
>> opportunity to get a KX3 and the KXPA100 100W amplifier/tuner combo to
>> replace my TS590 as a base radio. I would then use the KX3 on its own
>> instead of the FT817 for my QRP trips.
>>
>> I am playing now with the HF digital modes such as FreeDV, PSK31, JT65,
>> WSPR so hopefully CAT and audio interfacing to a computer is easy. Today I
>> use a SignaLink USB.
>>
>> I like the idea of getting to know one radio really well (the kx3) by
>> using it as my primary rig on the road AND at home (maybe even in the
>> mobile at some point). I would then save my pennies for the PX3 and even a
>> KX2 for lighter travels at some point.
>>
>> Is it safe to assume i won't be loosing any performance by making this
>> chance and even gain some?
>>
>> Hopefully no trolls on this group.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Ve3bwp
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Re: [Elecraft] Power has disappeared

[Kevin - K4VD]

It always seems slightly less than satisfying to be told what broke but not
how it might have broke. I always think back to the Navy six step
troubleshooting method drilled into me in ET "A" school. The final step was
always failure analysis.

Then again, knowing it is fixed and on the way home and I'd get over it all
pretty quickly. :)

73,
Kev


On Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 4:45 PM, Chris Kimball  wrote:

> Just received word from Elecraft:
>
> "
> Problem(s) found:
> No Transmit, defective DSP board
>
> Repair(s) performed:
> Replaced DSP board
> "
>
> That's not what I would have guessed, but they've checked it out and it
> goes
> back today, UPS Ground.
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/Power-has-disappeared-tp7620735p7621627.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Suggested antennas for the KX-2 for portable ops

[Kevin - K4VD]

KX3 portable I use the EF-40/20 from LNR. It would probably work on the KX2
also. ;)

It was real easy to tune for 40 and 20 and has done a great job for me at
Field Day, an NPOTA and out on my back deck. Very forgiving about the setup.

Kevin K4VD

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 4:58 PM, Jack Colson <jcols...@tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> I am sure that there are many ideas as to good antennas for the KX-2 in
> portable use.  I’d like to hear some!
> 73, Jack, W3TMZ
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

[Kevin - K4VD]

The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?

Kevin K4VD

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com> wrote:

> How do you define "necessary".
>
> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>
> I agree...
>
> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>
> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> demand...
>
> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
> terminals are rated for.
>
> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>
> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
> > Is 10 gauge necessary?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] KX3 PSK-31 IMD on Low Batteries

[Kevin - K4VD]

I probably should have expected this and took action before anyone had to
mention it.

I was using a KX3 on internal battery. I was running PSK-31 using DATA-A at
3 watts. I use an external soundcard (ASUS Xonar U7) and the laptop is an
HP Spectre running Win10 and DXLab suite. Rig control and the sound card
run off a USB hub. Antenna is a 160 meter OCF and I was on 40 meters.

The last QSO was with Eric KB3CNK. He's a few hundred miles from me. He
reported my signal was strong but that he saw some harmonics or splatter on
his waterfall.

I immediately backed down on the audio a little bit (5th bar flickering to
4th bar flickering) but he said it made no difference. My next thought is
some RF getting back into the audio which, with an OCF, wouldn't be unheard
of. I wasn't looking forward to tracking that down. I've got puka beads at
the feed and rig ends of the coax.

Then I noticed my internal battery voltage was down to 8.8V key down. I put
on the external battery which brought it up to 12.1V key down and he said
the signal looked beautiful (still 4th bar flickering).

The panic subsided. I'll need to be a little more aware of my battery
voltage in the future. Viva la simple fixes.

73,
Kevin K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest,Vol 148, issue 10

[Kevin - K4VD]

And then the conversation gets terminated. I was enjoying the discussion
and learning from it. It's too bad there isn't an easy way to move
conversations strangely deemed off-topic or maybe boring to a few to a side
conversation for those still interested. Reading archives is for
librarians. Hams communicate.

Kevin / K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Some "No Code" background

[Kevin - K4VD]

Wait a moment. ​I do not subscribe to the notion that today's hams are any
less capable than hams of the old days. ​I think that is old-timer thinking
bordering on the curmudgeonly. "Kids these days."

Today's hams know different things. Things some OT's may not understand,
value or appreciate but still valuable and worth knowing. New techniques,
modes, devices and interests, are a constant I can't keep up with.

New hams are a force to be reckoned with. I'll do my best to keep up with
them and enjoy the fruits of their ingenuity.

Kevin / K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Some "No Code" background

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Hi Ken:

As a CW operator, I think you did well in helping to secure the future of
Amateur Radio (proud to be a ham). Years later it seems apparent to me the
impact has been generally positive.

Your last comment... "Please, let's not start a thread on the subject.  I
just thought some "first person" input would be of interest."

Seems like an odd statement to make to a discussion group. I assume you are
trying to avoid a code/no-code argument.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

[Kevin - K4VD]

I'm not so sure. Just the rumor of a big Elecraft amp had some people
(including me) quite interested. In fact, based on some of the pictures,
Elecraft had some interest in the past.

Amps are not evil and I also don't think they are incompatible -
technically or philosophically - with Elecraft. I value skill,
intelligence, cunning and brute force when necessary.

If ever Elecraft comes out with a legal limit amp I'd be asking the boss
for OT.

On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 8:40 PM, Rick Braun  wrote:

> I was heartened to see Wayne’s response to this rumor.  It seems
> inceivable that Elecraft would offer such a product, much less one designed
> by someone else.   Big amps are about being loud, busting pileups,  .  When
> receivers were less sensitive and sophisticated, e.g. digital filters,
> digital noise reduction, etc., you needed power to get in the front ends of
> DX receivers.  We don’t need that power anymore except to contest, i.e.
> blow out the ops with less power.  To me this don’t seem like the Elecraft
> ethic.  They aren’t QRP snobs, and they seem to value skill, intelligence,
> and cunning, rather than brute power.   Whole big amp thing struck me as
> odd.
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 / FLDIGI Problem

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I'm only guessing here. fldigi has at least two methods of setting PTT on
rigs. One uses RigCat (​CAT command for PTT) and the other uses Hardware
PTT.  I don't know much about Hamlib, flrig or the other tabs.

Is it possible PTT is being set by more than one fldigi method and they are
conflicting?
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Antenna Tuner Settings

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I think SWR is not a good indication of which antenna is better. As Wes
mentioned, a 50 ohm dummy load has a near perfect match and is about the
worse possible antenna.

A dipole fed with 600 ohm ladder line provides a terrible match before the
BALUN (and sometimes after) but generally is a fine performer because of
the low loss.

The better antenna is the one that can hear the signal you are after better
than the other you are testing against. And then only for that signal, in
that direction, at that time of day, on that band and with that particular
propagation mode in play.

I think this is why you find some of the happiest hams are the ones that
have enough land for enough antennas to switch between them as the need
arises.

Kev / K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks Grant. I thought there'd be a little more inside for charging the
battery. I did a quick look for schematics on Google but didn't find
anything.

Kev


On Wed, Jul 20, 2016 at 6:12 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN 
wrote:

> The PWRgate is just basically Schottky steering diodes used to direct
> power from one terminal to another.  It does not generate noise …
>
> Grant NQ5T
>
>
> > I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about …. the PWRgate which
> I think is just the switching
> > portion of a switching power supply? So far they do not seem to be
> > generating noise. I'll have to give it some time to see if any snakes
> come
> > crawling across the waterfall.
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

A follow-up to the situation.

I purchased a PWRgate PG40S. On one side I have a marine battery. On the
other side I've got an Alinco DM-330MVT. In the middle is the KX3 and the
Flex. Only one has an antenna at any time.

I added a line isolator right below the BALUN of the OCF and another one
right at the rig input.

At this point there is no difference in the noise level on the KX3 when
comparing internal batteries vs the power setup described above. The Flex
is also not showing anything of concern on the waterfall.

I was (and maybe still am) a little skeptical about both the Alinco
switching power supply and the PWRgate which I think is just the switching
portion of a switching power supply? So far they do not seem to be
generating noise. I'll have to give it some time to see if any snakes come
crawling across the waterfall.

Remaining work...

I'm calling things 80% done and getting back to normal operation. I want to
add some more clip-ons to power cables as soon as I can remember where I
put them all. I need to tear into the RS-50 and see if I see anything
obvious and if not, dig deeper with the o'scope and meter and actually do
some troubleshooting. If I get it working right then I have a good backup
or loaner supply. If not... who knows. I also need to continue reading the
RFI document. There's a ton of information in it and I'm working to
actually understand what I'm reading instead of just using it as a
cookbook. A more balanced antenna - even a Hex Beam - might be on the wish
list.

Thanks for all the help and guidance. I'm feeling pretty good that things
are working well. The QRP Foxhunt is tomorrow night. I hope to be able to
blame my anticipated poor performance on atmospheric conditions and not
equipment noise.

​73!
Kevin K4VD​
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[Elecraft] NPOTA NP51 Activation (KX3 and K1)

[Kevin - K4VD]

Detrick (KI4STU) with his K1 and I with the KX3 took off work on Monday and
headed up to Dickey Ridge on Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park
(NP51). We were both on battery power. CW was the mode of choice. The
antennas were end-fed - Detrick's some odd-ball thingy and mine an LNR
EF-40/20 (no counterpoise). Basically the same setup we used on FD but
trimmed down significantly for mobility and quick setup.

We were able to activate NP51 with 12 CW QSOs in about 2 hours.

There were some tricky parts.

The end-fed thingy Detrick had would not tune until we swapped out the
coax. The guess is either the original coax is bad or the length of the
coax was contributing to the high SWR. Waiting to find out the results.
Detrick normally runs the antenna directly to binding posts.

Checking the weather in the morning it all looked clear. Then came the
dangerous wind and hail alerts and it was all we could do to get everything
back to the cars before the downpour. Weather changes quick!

I uploaded the QSLs to LoTW and hope I did it right, creating a new
location for the park. eQSL is all kinds of messed up but I'm losing my
patience with that service anyway. I'm not sure if I should expect
something back from the ARRL concerning the activation or just assume all
went well.

GNATS, GNATS and damn GNATS!

Then we went to Spelunkers for some Cavern Burgers and all was good in the
world again.

I'm absolutely enjoying the KX3. My go-bag is a little Nikon camera bag
containing the KX3 with side panels and cover, Begali Adventure paddles,
mic (unused), EF-40/20 antenna, Sony in-ear phones, spool of mason line,
short coax, mini-log and notepad, pen, pencil, 15Ah LiFePO4 (not used for
this trip). There's also copy of my license in a pouch. It is freedom in a
bag.

Next trip... bug spray.

To top off the good news, our new little crew - Barred Owl Radio Club
(BORC) was just issued W4OWL. We named our group for the fledgling begging
call that kept us away all night on FD (yep, we slept). You can find that
wonderful sound of nature right here:
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Barred_Owl/sounds. Scroll on down to
the bottom for pure listening e​​njoyment. If you don't get the impression
of a spike being driven into your ears you don't have the volume high
enough.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Howard and thanks for your explanations and patience. I need to do some
more testing a little later on with the KX3 on the RS-50. If I remember
right, I could hear the hum and hiss from the RS-50 only when the antenna
was attached. I think that goes along with what you are saying and I just
need to wrap my mind around that. I am prepared to deal with RF issues
while transmitting but not so prepared to think the problem could show up
during receive also.

So far I've added the NI4L HF Choke/Line Isolator just under the BALUN at
the feedpoint and another just at the rig. I've also added a few snap-ons
to the DC cord between the RS-50 and the radio at the RS-50 side. I want to
add more as soon as I can find the rest of them or possibly replace them
with the 2.4" ferrites at your site.

After doing the above I've noticed my tuning points have shifted a bit. I
need to get the analyzer on it to see by how much. I also *maybe* noticed a
reduction in noise on the Flex but to tell you the truth, I never really
noticed it on the Flex, only the KX3 made it obvious being able to switch
from battery to external power supply.

I need to do a little more testing if I can find the time this weekend. I
see the 2.4" ferrite core on your website and will probably place an order
for a couple/few. Does something like this go on each end of a line or do I
pick an end?

Thanks again,
Kevin


On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 7:19 AM, Howard Hoyt  wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that
>>> only be an issue during transmit?
>>>
>>
> Except for very special cases, antenna systems display reciprocity, and
> show very similar or identical current distributions at the frequency of
> interest in transmit and receive, although the magnitudes are obviously
> very different.  In a well-balanced antenna system the currents in the
> feedline are equal and of opposite phase, and in the case of a coax feedine
> the resulting fields are contained within the coax, i.e. there will be no
> current flowing on the outside of the coax shield.  Antenna system
> imbalances at the feedpoint will cause the imbalance current to flow on the
> outside of the coax shield and radiate in transmit and affect the antenna
> pattern.  In receive the exact same imbalance will exist and affect the
> pattern identically.
>
> In both transmit and receive, these common-mode currents will be conducted
> to the chassis of the rig and anything attached to it. They also
> capacitively couple through the power supply, you, and anything else
> touching or near the rig.  When these currents couple through the power
> supply to the AC line they effectively make the AC power system part of the
> antenna and couple any noise present in the AC mains to the receiver.  As
> the antenna currents pass through the supply they can also be modulated by
> the input-output impedance of the supply which varies at the rate of
> rectification, so the supply can add its own noise to these currents.
> Interestingly enough many people report stronger reception of the desired
> signals along with the increased noise, certainly proving the common-mode
> currents become part of the antenna system.  Breaking this current path
> with a common-mode choke will greatly reduce or effectively eliminate this
> current and noise.  For HF chokes we agree with Jim Brown's recommendations
> and we supply mix 31 cores for the purpose.  Proper grounding at the rig
> can also reduce the AC mains coupling.
>
> After selling thousands of these Kx33 supplies we have learned a lot about
> the nature of most "power supply" RFI.  We have found very few instances
> where any supply was causing RFI by transverse conduction (RF riding on the
> DC output) or radiation (proximity of the supply to the receive antenna).
> In the almost all cases, antenna system imbalances and the resulting
> common-mode currents were inducing RFI in the manner described above.  I'd
> be glad to send you a ferrite core to try, contact me off-line.
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Howard Hoyt  - WA4PSC
> www,proaudioeng.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks Dick and Howard...

The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.

As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
the radio.

The reports above were with *receive only* (with and without an antenna
attached). On the RS-50 the hum I'm hearing is what I think I'd expect to
hear from a less-that-well filtered linear power supply. The hash/hiss
noise I hear sounds more like a switching power supply, which it is not. I
don't know what in the power supply could be generating that noise.

The RS-12 does not have either the hum or hiss that I can hear. It just
sounds like the noise floor bumped up a little. I'm thinking Dick is right
and it is just the receiver responding to the increased voltage though it
is only about .5 volts above the external battery pack I was using.

Is every power supply going to generate a little noise or should I expect
no difference moving from battery to power supply?

Kev
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[Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi... I have a KX3 and normally run it on batteries. I also have a
Flex-6500 that runs on a big RS-50.

Last night during the QRP Fox Hunt (only 1 pelt) I decided to shutdown the
Flex and give the KX3 a shot. I powered up the Flex on its internal
batteries and, while I had the headphones on, plugged the RS-50 into it.

I was surprised with what I heard. Not only a low freq hum (60 or 120 Hz,
can't tell) but also a hash sound. The affect was fairly dramatic. I never
noticed anything on the Flex because I never ran that on batteries.

Today I swapped the KX3 between an old RS-12 linear I had laying around, a
12 V 15 Ah LiFePO4 battery pack and the internal batteries.

Going from internal (9.9V) to LiFePO4 (13.0V) I could hear no difference
and see no difference on the S-meter. I tried with the antenna connected
and disconnected.

Going from internal to the RS-12 (13.5 V) i could hear an increase in noise
level, about +S1, almost like turning up the RF gain a tad. When the
antenna was removed I heard no difference between internal battery and
RS-12. The additional noise wasn't objectionable - just sounded like the
noise floor jumped up a bit. No hum, no hash (or hiss).

I'm not sure what to make of this. It is apparent my RS-50 is in need of
some attention. I've had hit-and-miss experiences with Astron over the
years and now seeking an alternative. I just want something to work and
work well. I'm not even sure the RS-12 is up to spec with the small
increase in noise. My expectation is no change in noise going between
battery and power supply. Is this unrealistic?

eham's reviews are kind of not very helpful. There's plenty of good and
plenty of bad said about most makes and models. I'm thinking maybe I want
to run 100% battery for both the Flex and KX3 and just recharge when not in
use but I'm not sure how realistic that is. I do know I don't want to just
settle for the additional noise.

Switchers don't seem to be an option. While it might sound quiet at the
moment I can always see/hear that noise snake crawling across the panoramic
display right towards my current QSO.

Has anyone done some A/B comparisons while listening? I'm curious what you
may have experienced.

Thanks,
Kev K4VD
(VD = Vacation Day)
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Report

[Kevin - K4VD]

Nice! I really enjoy hearing about good results with a minimal setup. I was
real pleased with how well the KX3 setup up, ran and then packed away. I
didn't know what to expect but was kept quite busy. It is all about being
on the air. Hope you enjoy the KX2 and the K1 continues to get a workout.

Kev


On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 6:59 PM, Jim Guffey  wrote:

> I have been a Ham for 25 years but this is the first year I have seriously
> participated in field day. I had a blast! I had some family obligations so
> I was only on the air for 10 hours.
>
>
> My setup was very small. I just bought a K1 a few months ago and I was a
> little skeptical about how many contacts I would make with the bands being
> in bad shape and how crowed it was. But I tell you I had no trouble making
> contacts. If I could hear them I could work them. I made 110 contacts, 54
> sections, 37 states and the Bahamas.
>
>
> My set up was the Elecraft K1 with 20 and 40 meters, a LNR Precision
> EF-10/20/40 MKII EndFedz Antenna sloped with the high end at 22' and a 6ah
> battery.
>
>
> I have order a KX2 that should be here Friday but I am keeping the K1. CW
> is just too much fun.
>
>
> Next year I am going to set up in the woods somewhere and I want to double
> my number of contacts.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Kevin - K4VD]

Those that use QLF or worse, LID are rude. If it isn't a friend poking fun
then I ain't got time for that. Throw me your worse CW using a clothespin
and some thumb tacks. I'll copy what I can and hopefully encourage you to
improve. No paddles or keyer required.

That said, there's nothing sweeter than the classic rock sound of well sent
straight key or bug CW. Electronic keyers are top 40 bubble gum. :)

Kev / K4VD

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Barry LaZar  wrote:

> I spent a lot of time this weekend copying CW operators who were superb
> and a lot who barely know how to send. I was in the latter category and
> quite oftenand  I would receive a QLF??. I built an accukeyer featured in
> QST a lot of years ago and in a number of the ARRL Handbooks.
>
> I bought a FYO paddle set which is what the Bencher looks like. I never
> did use iambic sending, nor do I today. However, the result was no more
> QLF?, and my fatigue level is much lower after a long weekend.
>
> My point is you need to really practice to get good with a key so you can
> be read. An electronic keyer, like in the Elecraft radios or a Winkeyer
> used with a dual or single paddle set will really clean up your sending and
> lessen your fatigue, even if you never use the iambic features available.
>
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I wonder if trying to match the size and action are really that important.
Once you have say Iambic-B down on one set of paddles then moving to
another set is not a real challenge I think. A few minutes warm-up and away
you go.

The Begali Adventure is a beautiful key. I own other Begali keys and easily
swap from the Sculpture to the ​KXPD3. Someday I'll own an Adventure I
think.

I wonder if someone might come up with a base for the KXPD3 where it can be
used off the radio? That would make a fine option if you want to practice
with a similar key. :) Now I wish I had some metalworking skills.

Also, as a long term SKCC member (605T) I will second Willis' comment.
Straight keys are a blast. Bugs are even more fun! But I know that's not
what you asked... just a little plug for the alternatives.

73 and enjoy!

Kev / K4VD

On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 12:53 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Re "a desktop key that is close to the size and action of the key attached
> to the KX3": That's your core question, it appears.
>
> Size-wise the Begali Adventure is likely close, but action-wise likely
> not. It can be a desktop key on the right base.  But price is likely
> prohibitive for what you have in mind.
>
> Perhaps Wayne will weigh in.
>
> 73, Phil W7OX
>
>
> On 6/24/16 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
>
>> Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and
>> action of the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent
>> code in decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday
>> use a KX on CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from
>> scratch but I'm guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key
>> right? Thanks for your thoughts! Rick N3IKQ
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Does one receive an email when an order is placed?

[Kevin - K4VD]

I purchased my KX3 recently and didn't receive a confirmation until I asked
about it here. I do kind of expect an order acknowledgement if not
immediately (the computer age) at least by the next business day. If not, I
get a little concerned.

This is only because I've been spoiled by the quick "Thank you for your
order!" email from the likes of Amazon and the local pizza delivery shop.
Now everyone who sells me something needs to be just like them.

Kev / K4VD

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 3:09 PM, Joel Curneal  wrote:

> I have placed  several orders with Elecraft in the past year (the latest
> for a KX2 placed on May 23)  and have always received an automatic email
> response shortly after placing the order.
>
> Joel - N1JEO
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Bob  wrote:
>
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > Last order placed was for K-Pod on April 17th and I did.  As
> > far as I remember always did in the past too.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > K2TK
> >
> >
> >
> > On 6/22/2016 2:08 PM, Tom wrote:
> >
> >> The reason I ask is that early this month I ordered a bunch of stuff and
> >> I remember seeing the web page confirmation but I do not seem to have
> any
> >> email.  Does one get sent?
> >> Thanks, Tom
> >> va2fsq.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > __
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[Elecraft] KX3 LEDs

[Kevin - K4VD]

Does anyone else find the LEDs on the KX3 to be a little too bright?
Especially the green one. It seems the red and yellow are frosted/diffuse​
a little but the green one is blinding at the wrong angle.

I have the LED BRT set to 1. Any chance of making position #1 even dimmer
in a future release? For now I just display PS voltage which keeps the
yellow lights off. Tape will work to cover them up too. But increasing the
range of the adjustment seems more elegant.

73,
Kevin K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] CQ FD de NA3DX

[Kevin - K4VD]

Nice! I'll be working with a friend up on Skyline Drive with a KX3 and K1.
Hope to work the Explorers Radio Club.

Good luck & 73,
Kev


On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 7:33 PM, Doug Ellmore  wrote:

> The Explorers Radio Club operates near Annapolis, MD and uses 4 KX3 for 3A
> Battery (QRP) + GOTA and a K3 for 6m/2m VHF (QRP).  See www.na3dx.org.
>
> Doug NA1DX
>
> On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 7:27 PM, Walter Underwood 
> wrote:
>
> > 1. It would be a great help for anyone who would like to attend to know
> > where this wonderful event is happening.
> >
> > 2. This is not about Elecraft equipment or users. There is not even a
> > suggestion that Elecraft equipment will be at the event. I appreciate
> your
> > enthusiasm, but this is almost certainly the wrong forum for this
> > announcement.
> >
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> >
> > On Jun 15, 2016, at 4:06 PM, Doug Ellmore  wrote:
> >
> > Community News
> >
> > The Explorers Radio Club's Amateur Radio Club invites the public to
> witness
> > and participate in the Amateur Radio Relay Leagues 24 hr Field Day
> > Event June 25 at 2pm to June 26 at 2pm.
> >
> > During the event, ham radio operators all over the country will be
> > participating in "Field Day."  Field day is a demonstration of the public
> > service, contesting, and disaster preparation all rolled up into one
> event
> > each year.
> >
> > Additional information about attending the event is available on
> > the Explorers Radio Club Field Day site is at http://www.na3dx.org/ or
> via
> > email at na...@arrl.net.  Additional information about Amateur Radio is
> > available at http://www.arrl.org/.
> >
> > The Explorers Radio Club is one of the top amateur radio Field Day
> scoring
> > clubs in it's division in the country.  You can see state of the art
> > communications technology mixed with the oldest virtual digital
> > communication methods.
> >
> > Please bring family and friends and get an introduction to the hobby.
> The
> > public can participate in making contacts using the special Get On The
> Air
> > (GOTA) station.
> >
> >
> > Doug Ellmore, Sr.
> > President, Explorers Radio Club
> > na...@arrl.net
> > __
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> > Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Doug Ellmore
> d...@ellmore.net
>
> Computer Scientists do precision guess work based on unreliable data
> provided by those of questionable knowledge.
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Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Memory Editor

[Kevin - K4VD]

I'm running the same version and see Mode B on a fresh sheet.

Start filling out a line. Select DATA for Mode A and a new column will pop
into existence for Data Mode.

Kev


On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 4:22 PM, Michael Cook 
wrote:

> I am a new KX3 owner and want to use the editor to populate the memories.
> I have version 1.5.7.20 running on my PC under Windows 10. The program
> loads but the window does not look quite the same as that shown in
> Elecraft's literature. Specifically the rightmost column I can see is
> labeled "Mode B". I do not see "Data Mode", "Offset" or "PL Tone" columns.
> I would appreciate any advice that might apply.
>
> Michael Cook
>
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Re: [Elecraft] This will effect pilots and Hams throughout the Western US

[Kevin - K4VD]

Testing and practice all make sense but what isn't making sense about this
is that we're disrupting GPS. Lots of stuff other than military rely on GPS
and - just my humble opinion - It seems a little freaky that they are
testing commercial aircraft.

Wouldn't as valid a test simply be to turn off the GPS receiver? I mean
testing for a power outage at a commercial data center doesn't require
turning off power to the city.

It all kind of seems strange to me.

Kev


On Fri, Jun 10, 2016 at 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> When I was servicing shipboard electronics systems in the 90's, one of my
> regular "charges" as a civilian contractor was the Naval Hospital ship USNS
> Mercy ported in San Francisco, CA. I went to sea on her several times to
> check/calibrate nav systems, radars, direction finders, GPS gear, etc.
> under
> operational conditions.
>
> On one trip I noticed officers on the grabbing sextants and heading out
> onto
> the bridge wings. I asked the Captain if the US Navy still used sextants to
> navigate in this day and age. He smiled and said, "If we go to war, most of
> that stuff up there (pointing to the sky) will be disabled in the first
> hour. My officers will know how to get us wherever we're needed without
> it!"
>
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> brian
> Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 1:50 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] This will effect pilots and Hams throughout the
> Western US
>
> Related to this.  The Naval Academy has started teaching Celestial
> Navigation again.  It had been discontinued.
>
> The Coast Guard never discontinued it.
>
> I also understand the old surplussed 10 kW Collins HF transmitters are
> being
> reacquired by the military.  Can teaching of CW be next?
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Street Lamps and RFI

[Kevin - K4VD]

Could the ARRL help? Maybe they can provide some background or educational
material for the association.

Kev / K4VD

On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 8:46 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:

> On 6/9/2016 3:26 PM, HankP wrote:
>
> > Although these lighting devices must meet FCC Part 15 limits for
> > unintentional radiators, I’d like to suggest that they be rated for
> > Part 15B as opposed to Part 15A.
>
> Although we wish that it would be so, it is very doubtful if there are
> any street lamps that are certified to meet FCC Part 15 standards as
> Class B devices.  We're lucky that they meet Class A device standards at
> that.
>
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping of KX2's

[Kevin - K4VD]

Randy...

How were you told? I have been waiting for any kind of confirmation that
the company even received my KX3 order last Friday. I'm probably being
impatient but I'd at least like some confirmation that the order is there.

I tried emailing and calling with no response. They are probably scurrying
around trying to get KX2 orders out the door.

Enjoy your new KX2!

Kev
K4VD

On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 5:19 PM, Armour, Randy (WS) <
randy.arm...@nashville.gov> wrote:

> Update.  My KX2 ordered on May 21st ships today!  I got more anxious after
> reading this thread and called Elecraft.
>
> Randy - KI4LMR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Armour, Randy (WS)
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 4:00 PM
> To: 'Joe W2KJ' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Shipping of KX2's
>
> I ordered a KX2 on May 21st, at the Dayton Hamvention booth.  No sign of
> it yet.  Inquired about shipping status via email last night (10:00pm
> central).  No response yet... but I too am very anxious.  It is difficult
> to practice patience with this one!  :-)
>
> Randy - KI4LMR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
> W2KJ
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 10:20 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Shipping of KX2's
>
> Howdy Gang:
>
> I ordered my KX2 on 25 May and am wondering when I might expect to receive
> it.
>
> Has anone received a KX2 recently and, if so, on what date did they place
> their order?
>
> Many thanks for any info.
>
> Anxiously awaiting this little beauty (grin).
>
> 73, Joe W2KJ
> I QRP, therefore I am
>
>
>
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