Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I have successfully used an Arduino to talk to a W2. Like Bruce I could not
get it to work with SoftwareSerial, only the hardware Serial port would
work. I have it working with an Uno, a Nano and a Mega all using the Serial
port. Lest you are tempted to use the hardware serial ports Serial1, Serial2
or Serial3 on the Mega, they will also will not work.

I did not test with a W1 but based on what has been described here I expect
it behaves the same as the W2.

Unfortunately the same Serial port is used to download the program via USB,
so you need to disconnect the W2 (or W1) when doing downloads.

73,
Lou   W2ROW




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Hi,

Did you do the resistance check on page 76 of the latest manual. It checks
for a short from the collector of Q7 or Q8 to ground after installing the
heat sink. If there is a short there, the manual suggests the most likely
cause.

Lou   W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] What's the best method to send high speed CW?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I am not a high CW op by any stretch but I think the K1EL Winkeyer (USB)
interface is used a lot. It is supported by most ham radio software (like
HRD). It relieves the computer from doing the CW timing which can be
unreliable depending on load.

Lou   W2ROW





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[Elecraft] Elecraft business practices - more info

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I heard from Elecraft Sales and will attempt to communicate what I was told. 
Sales is using a new shopping cart platform which allows them limited time
to capture payment information. As a result, it seems that they are unable
to defer payment in the case of a backorder, so orders are charged
immediately (as was the case for the two orders I placed recently). 

They said that they are testing a new application which will allow deferring
payment until actual ship time. The target for this application to be
implemented is next month. In the mean time they said they will add a refund
offer to the notifications they send to customers when a backorder occurs.

I am generally satisfied with this explanation but would have liked to have
told in advance.

Again, I have been a loyal and satisfied Elecraft customer for many years
and am not attempting to in any way talk anyone out of doing business with
them. I was surprised when my credit card was charged twice before shipment
was projected to occur and now I have more knowledge.

Thanks,
Lou





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft business practices

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I am expecting nothing from the list. I am attempting to inform the list
members that at least under certain circumstances Elecraft may charge your
credit card well in advance of shipping. Obviously anyone is free to do
anything they want with this information including completely ignore it.

Lou



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft business practices

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Hi Don,

As I stated, they did this twice so I suspect more than a glitch.

I did try to talk to sales and received several excuses but no definitive
answers.

Lou W2ROW



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[Elecraft] Elecraft business practices

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Let me start by saying that I am a long term Elecraft customer. I have built
4 K2s and a K1. I also own a K3, K3s, KX3, KX2 and other Elecraft gear. I
helped out for several years as a volunteer in the Elecraft booth at the
RARS hamfest here in Raleigh.

Two recent experiences involving backordered AX1s have left me concerned
because my credit card was charged before Elecraft shipped the product. In
both cases the backorder turned out to be longer than a month. I was not
offered a refund on my credit card until I actually cancelled the orders.
Note this was not a hold of funds on the card, it was an actual charge. In
the first instance the AX1 was part of a larger order which included a KX2.
I was charged for the entire order even though the AX1 did not ship. In the
second instance the AX1 was listed as in stock when I ordered, I was
notified that there was a week delay and then notified the delay was longer.
My credit card was charged on the day the order was received by Elecraft. I
cancelled and am awaiting a refund.

Back in the early days of internet ordering the most important test of a
company's business practices was that they not charge a credit card before
shipment. Amazon is a perfect example of this, they never charge before
shipment. I will allow for some exceptions where I am told in advance that I
am placing a preorder and my card will be charged immediately. Elecraft did
not do this in either case described above.

The bottom line and based on the experiences above, it appears to be
Elecraft policy to charge credit cards before shipment. I am extremely
disappointed with this. Sorry for the long post.

Lou  W2ROW



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[Elecraft] KXPD2 Extra Spring?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I just received a new KXPD2 paddle from Elecraft. In the envelope was a
loose, extra spring with no documentation as to its purpose. Does anyone
know if the extra spring is the same as the original or is it some kind of
tension adjustment like the three different springs that came with the
KXPD3?

Also there are now two allen screws per paddle one to set the adjustment and
one to lock it in. All the documentation I could find showed only the one
adjustment screw per paddle.

I did email Elecraft support about the spring but no answer yet.

Thanks,
Lou   W2ROW





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 driving KPA500 / KAT500

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Ted,

Elecraft did publish an add on circuit to drive an amp from the K2. The bad
news is that I can not find it on their new website. Tom Hammond N0SS (SK)
designed a PC Board for an amp keying circuit which is no longer available.
However he published the schematic which you can find here:

N0SS K2 amp keying circuit
  

I hope the link works. I have not tried this circuit with a KPA500.

Lou W2ROW



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[Elecraft] New K2 - two bad encoders

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I am building a newly acquired K2. Everything was fine through stage 1
assembly and checkout. Upon reassembling after stage two the main tuning
encoder no longer works (turning the knob does absolutely nothing). I
contacted Elecraft support and Gary sent me a new encoder assembly. I
received it yesterday, assembled it and installed it, it also does not work.
At every stage I flush cut the leads on both the encoder PCB and the control
board and insulated with thick paper.

To add to the plot, I have an older K2 which I disassembled and removed the
encoder assembly from. I installed that encoder assembly in the new K2 and
it works FB. I also installed one of the new encoder assemblies in the old
K2 and it does not work (as expected).

Being in contact with Elecraft support I expect this will get resolved soon,
but I wondered if anyone on the list has any experience and/or suggestions.

Thanks,
Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] RF in Microphone

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Jim,

You definitely need to contact Elecraft support. I had exactly the same
problem with a K3S I built recently and the KPA3A was bad. Elecraft replaced
it and all is well now. 

Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I have one quick question about the 6 pole filter. Will it have an offset
like the 5 pole filters or will the offset be zero like the 8 pole filters?

Thanks,
Lou  W2ROW



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[Elecraft] [KX3] 2 meter module caution

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I received the 2 meter module and installed it Friday afternoon. After
installation, it did not work - no transmit or receive. I opened the KX3 up
and discovered that the local oscillator cable had been pulled out from the
coax connector at the 2M module end. I think that when I first reassembled
the KX3 after installation, the cable was pinched between the top and bottom
halves of the KX3 and and pulled loose. There is no warning that this might
happen in the manual so I suggest you use caution. The cable is quite long
and has a lot of freedom to move and can end up pinched.

Elecraft is sending me a new cable - thanks. 

I have a temporary fix where I tack soldered the cable center conductor and
shield to the 2M module board and all is working well.


Lou   W2ROW





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[Elecraft] Assembled K2 Misc. Accessory Board available

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I recently went in on a group buy for the MAB project. I received three
boards and only need two for my K2's. I did assemble and test the third
board if anyone is interested. It does not include the Internal Mic Adapter
but you could add that yourself by removing 4 zero ohm resistors and adding
the IMA parts. 

To install you need to plug the board into the mic header on the front panel
board and solder four wires - 3 to the front panel board and one to the
control board. The MAB gives you a fixed audio output (W3FPR circuit), a key
line and a CW tuning indicator (K6XX circuit). See 
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm   for
the MAB details. The MAB was designed by KW4M and is a very nice addition to
the K2.

I will sell for $30 shipped via priority mail to the lower 48. I can be
reached at my call @ arrl.net.

Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] Assembled K2 Misc. Accessory Board sold

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

It has a new home - thanks.

Lou W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2} MAB - anyone picking this up?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Chip - I am in for a three board sheet for $37.

Thanks for picking this up.

Lou W2ROW


Chip Stratton wrote
 Thanks for pointing out my error Dave. I wasn't looking closely enough,
 and
 that makes it much better. I'll modify my proposal:
 
 I'll order three sheets for $110, so $37 each sheet with three boards.
 
 If two others will agree to buy a sheet of three boards for $37, I'll do
 it.
 
 Chip





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Re: [Elecraft] Identifying C26 on K2 100w PA

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Gary,

In the KPA100 I just finished building C26 was a light brown ceramic disc.
It was marked with CO above and 33 below. The higher voltage cap of the
same value (C5F) was blue and a bit larger. YMMV.

Lou  W2ROW  


Gary G7USC wrote
 Hi All, 
 I need a bit of help identifying C26. Can any one tell me what markings
 are on the above capacitor ?
 I have a possibility of two that it could be, just not 100% sure which one
 of the two 
 73 Gary G7USC





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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - KXPD3 Socket, Plug, and Schematic Questions

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

There was a discussion of this topic on the KX3 group. The dot and dash
paddles (pins 3 and 4) need to make contact with ground (pin 1). The
original version of the KXPD3 had a design flaw on the circuit board which
followed the diagram in the published KXPD3 schematic dated March 2012. This
version of the KXPD3 got its ground through the screws connecting the KXPD3
to the KX3 chassis. 

The KXPD3 upgrade fixed this problem with a circuit board replacement and
the new version of the KXPD3 now gets its ground connection from pin 1 and
the chassis, pin 3 is not connected.

During the discussion Wayne said that the original intent of pin 3 was to
provide memory button functions (different resistances to ground for each
memory button) but this was not implemented.

This is my understanding of the situation. I have no insider knowledge. I do
believe that the KXPD3 schematic needs updating to reflect the new version.

Lou W2ROW


Richard-2 wrote
 Hello,
Why is source 3V3D connected to Pin 3 of the KXPD3?
I have made (but not yet used) an interface cable to connect external 
 paddles to the KXPD3 jack.  The  KXPD3 Schematic shows Pin 3 of the plug 
 grounded inside the KXPD3.  However, Page 2 of 8 of the Control Panel 
 schematics shows 3.3 Volts (3V3D) connected to pin 3 of the KX3 socket 
 through R110.
Testing by another ham found that connecting Pin 1 (grounded inside 
 KX3) to his external key common and the Dit and Dah leads to pins 2 and 
 4 worked fb.  The KXPD3 schematic shows Pin 1 not used.
My KX3 socket pin measurements to chassis:  Pin 1: Grounded,  Pin 2:  
 11k,  Pin 3:  2.1k,  Pin 4: 11k
Is Pin 1 or Pin 3 the common contact terminal inside the KXPD3? Is 
 Pin 3 grounded inside the KXPD3?  (I would ring it out, but I don't own 
 one.)
Do nDASHALT and nDOTALT go low (like the side key jack) or high to 
 indicate contact closure?
If the former, why is 3V3D connected to the KXPD3?
Thanks for any assistance to help me understand.
 73, Richard, AI4SH
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Reducing K2 power below 1 watt (QRPp)

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

There is an article on the Elecraft website:

Milliwatting with the K2
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/milliwatting_with_the_k2.htm  

Lou  W2ROW


andyatd wrote
 I've been searching for the best methods to modify a K2 for QRPp levels
 but the pages recommended seem to have expired accounts.
 
 Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
 
 Thanks!
 
 Andy
 N3LCW





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Re: [Elecraft] Kx3: How to interface UP, DOWN and PTT signal ?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Look on the Elecraft web site under manuals then KX3. There is an
instruction sheet for the MH3 posted there which shows a schematic.

Lou   W2ROW


Brian Lodahl wrote
 Hi,
 
 [ Reposting in seperate thread ]
 
 For the 4-pin mic pinout for the MH-3 microphone, it is listed that the 
 PTT line also carries logic for UP and DOWN keys.
 
 
 Would it be possible to ask for a schematic ?
 
 73'
 Brian OZ2BRN
 Kx3 # 1118, K2 # 6936





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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] 160-80 meter mod?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I did the mod and yes currently there are SMD parts at the locations of the
four devices you need to replace. I had no trouble heating the existing
devices to remove them. I also had no problem soldering the new devices in
place. It was normal two pad SMD stuff, nothing special.

For reference I am reasonably experienced at soldering, but only moderately
so at doing SMD work.

Lou W2ROW


John Fritze wrote
 Can anyone who has done the 160/80 meter LP filter mod tell me if there
 are
 parts now on the pads on the circuit board?  If there are, did you just
 break them off (then clean up the pads) or heat them and remove them?
 
 -- 
 John Fritze Jr
 K2QY





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Re: [Elecraft] (KX3) OMG My brand new KX3 has a nasty little problem!

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Bruce,

I had the same symptoms. In my case it was caused by a broken solder
connection where the power jack  attaches to the CP board. I removed the CP
board, heated the connection and added solder to it. The problem is solved.

The power jack is a surface mount device and as such had very little solder
where it is connected to the board. If I were to build another KX3 kit I
would resolder the power jack connections before assembly as a routine
precaution. This appears to be a weak point in the KX3 construction. 

Lou   W2ROW


bruce whitney wrote
 
 The DC cable/connection is flaky.. any movement of the cord or twisting of
 the connector kills the power and of course when turning it back on again
 the radio comes back in default - many KHz away and in a different mode
 than the QSO - I wanted to throw it through the window! I will call the
 boys in Aptos tomorrow - anybody else have this problem?
 Bruce W8RA
 
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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Protection Mats

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

See the KX3 Kit Assembly Manual page 5. The third mat listed is a Desco.

Lou  W2ROW 


AL7BA - Jim Shaw wrote
 
 I know I've seen a couple e-mails, one fairly recently, on one of the
 Elecraft reflectors I subscribe to that referenced an Elecraft doc, I
 believe, that listed three ESD mats that were recommended because of their
 resistive specs. There was a U-Line, a 3M, and one other. Can someone
 please point me to the doc that listed those? Thanx!
 
 73
 Jim
 AL7BA/8
 




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] GFI outlet, 100W on 20m, and *poof* (RFI?)

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

You could also try moving the GFCI to the panel box by installing a GFCI
breaker in the panel box and replacing the GFCI outlet with a normal one.
This might solve the problem by increasing the distance between the RFI
source and the breaker. Also the shielding provided by the panel box may
help.

Of course this assumes you do not have anything on the circuit which you
would not want GFCI for (like lights, smoke detectors etc.)

Lou W2ROW


John Shadle wrote
 
 Hi all,
 I realize that this is tangentially related to Elecraft gear since I'm
 using a K3 and experiencing this issue, but I thought someone else may
 have some knowledge to share with me to help me solve my problem.
 
 Recently I stopped using a 25' long extension cord to power my
 computer, power supply, and other accessories and installed a 2 gang
 box directly off of the main electrical panel, where my shack happens
 to be (in the basement). While our basement is waterproofed, it still
 has a concrete floor, which requires a GFI outlet (according to my
 electrician). To do my due diligence, I installed one GFI in the 2
 gang box and 1 regular 3-prong grounded outlet. I have my shack
 computer, my power supply, and my transformer for my SGC SG-231
 autotuner plugged into this.
 
 Last night I tuned up (15W) 20m and was hoping to work some DX. My SWR
 showed 2.0:1 on my SWR meter and on the K3. All is good. When I keyed
 down with 100W, the GFI tripped and my shack computer, power supply,
 etc. shut off.
 
 I'm using Leviton smartlockpro 20A GFCI outlets from Home Depot.
 They're not cheap, but maybe they don't have adequate RFI protection
 (obviously).
 
 I suppose the first solution is to remove the GFI from the situation,
 but I thought using it was the right thing to do. Any personal
 anecdotes or advice would be welcome.
 
 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 orders

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

The conversion of order number to date/time is in UTC. My kit just shipped
and I ordered at 13:25 (UTC) on 12/28/2011 (08:25 EST). You ordered at 13:58
CST on the same date, that would put your order at 19:58 UTC, about six
hours after the time for currently shipping kits.

73,
Lou  W2ROW



bles wrote
 
 
 ...
 Before you start sending emails about PST vs local time I ordered at 
 12/28/2011 13:58 CST and the last order number converts to 12/28/2011 
 13:59.   Now, that could be EST, CST, MST, or PST.   I'm guessing PST 
 but apparently even that is a secret.
 
 If the conversion tool is bogus then why can't they just tell us we 
 can't go by it?
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft publicity in HamRadioNow episode

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

The good news:
 Elecraft got some publicity in episode 9A of HamRadioNow. Don, W3FPR, and
several of us had a great time manning the Elecraft booth at RARSFest in
Raleigh in early April. We met many people and Don's KX3 generated a lot of
interest. 

The bad news:
 For some totally unknown reason, I was the person interviewed for the video
:)

You can view in on  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxBOOH_usOU YouTube . The
Elecraft segment starts at 24:57 into the video and lasts about two minutes.

Enjoy and 73,
Lou W2ROW

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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Lou Voerman W2ROW wrote
 
 I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V
 DC Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of
 replacing a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole
 choke. Elecraft sent me this kit without my asking.   :)
 

I installed it in about 30 minutes and did end up removing the KPA3 module.
I suspect it would have taken me longer if I had tried to get at the
components while leaving the KPA3 in place. All works well. It might be nice
if Elecraft provided a stick on label with the 1A limit to cover the 500mA
label on the rear panel.

Lou  W2ROW


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[Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V DC
Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of replacing
a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole choke. Elecraft
sent me this kit without my asking.   :)

I have not installed it yet but the diode is accessed by removing the bottom
panel. The fuse and RFC replacement require removing the top cover, fan
assembly and the KPA3 module (optional but recommended). The new fuse is
rated at 1.1 amp.

I expect to do the install tomorrow and will report back then.

Lou W2ROW

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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone get their P3 SVGA yet?

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

tomb18 wrote
 
 Any comments?
 I have to wait, since I'm out of town for two weeks
 

I got it today. Install took about 15 minutes (will be longer if you need to
update to the new firmware). I need to play with it some more but it appears
to work as advertised.

Lou W2ROW

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Disable Transmit

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 
 Lou,
 
 I would suggest the best way to disable transmit for your situation is 
 to disable the 8T signal - I would suggest removing Q1 from the Control 
 Board.  For added protection to the K2 transmit stages, I would also 
 suggest removing the DC voltage from RF Board Q7 and Q8 by removing T3 
 and remove RFC4 to take the voltage off Q5 and Q6.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 

Don and others - thanks for the responses. I guess I will be warming up the
soldering iron.

73,
Lou

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[Elecraft] K2 Disable Transmit

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I have an extra K2/10 with pretty much all options except DSP. I also have a
9 year old grandson who at least has the potential to be interested in ham
radio. It occurred to me that I could set up the K2 in his room at home (he
lives a couple of miles away) and let him do some SWL. 

I would need to disable transmit in the K2 so transmit accidents can not
happen. Permanently putting the K2 in test mode would be perfect since he
could practice CW sending but it is not obvious how I could do that.

The KAT2 would not work without transmit so I was thinking of a low price
manual ATU with a random wire antenna.

I did a search of the archives and found some previous references but no
definitive answer. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Lou  W2ROW


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Re: [Elecraft] Not hearing signals in K2 with EC2 enclosure KPA100/KAT100 combo

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

Hi - this may be obvious and if so - sorry.

You need two RF cables (plus the antenna cable itself) to make this work.
First a BNC to BNC cable goes from the K2 ANT1 jack to the AUX RF jack on
the rear panel of the KAT100 this provides an RF path from the K2 to the
KPA100 via an internal (to the KAT100/KPA100 box) coax. You also need a
PL259 to PL259 cable from the ANT.(50ohm) jack on the KPA100 to the RF IN
jack on the KAT100. This connects the ouput of the KPA100 to the input of
the KAT100. Now you can connect the antenna to the PL259 ANT1 jack on the
KAT100.

Of course you also need to power the K2 via it normal power jack and the
KAT100/KPA100 box via the Anderson Power Pole connector on the KPA100.

You mentioned that you have the control cable connected between the K2 and
the external box.

Hope this helps - I built and use this combination all the time.

Lou  W2ROW

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