[Elecraft] Change Frequency

2021-04-16 Thread Mel Feeley via Elecraft
I have been trying to reset my mail to a once a day but there is apparent no 
easy way to do that. Even though there is an option listed. 


Sent from Yahoo Mail 
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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?

2019-01-13 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
One of the things that has been hinted at is the OCF dipole.  One of the really 
great attributes is that you can adjust the matching impedance of the antenna 
by moving the feed point away from center.  If you have a SWR of 1.5:1 and the 
R is 75 and the j is 0, move the feed point away from center and you can find 
75 ohms.  Of course you will have to address the 75 ohm, but the match will be 
1:1.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Ray Albers 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 1:58 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?
   
A friend once told me, "Almost none of us has a balanced dipole."

What he meant is, few of us are lucky enough to be able to put a dipole
high up and completely in the clear - most of us have to put it up where we
can, and one side will be closer to houses, trees, gutters, chain link
fences. than the other.

Probably true!

73
Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy New Year from Germany

2018-12-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Well, we are all getting older and hopefully wiser, hi.  Got mine in 1957. 
ALWAYS the best effort I ever did, except the XYL of course...  Cheers, from 
the west coast.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Doug Turnbull 
 To: 'Bob DeHaney' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, December 31, 2018 3:59 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy New Year from Germany
   
Good Man Bob.
I also so add HNY to all our fellows and sisters.    We are licensed in the
same year.  My ticket arrived one week after turning 16 and was the best
present.    So guess I am but a pup but yes it is great to wake up each
morning.  We share a great hobby for both youth and when retired.

                      73 Doug EI2CN formerly KN4WQZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob DeHaney
Sent: 31 December 2018 23:44
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Happy New Year from Germany

Vy 73 de Bob DJ0RD/WU5T who will be 79 this month, still a Ham since 1960.
Yes, I am happy when I wake up in the morning ??

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Re: [Elecraft] wire for random wire antenna using kx3

2018-12-18 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
If I remember right, the first rule in designing a BC antenna, when dirt was 
new, was PATTERN coverage.  Once that was achieved they fixed everything else. 
Resonance??? No one cared.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Fred Jensen 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 11:56 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] wire for random wire antenna using kx3
   
Indeed.  AM broadcast vertical antennas are rarely 90 or 180 degrees, 
especially if they are a Class A station.  I think both KFI and KNX in 
Los Angeles have 195 deg verticals.  The design goal is to maximize 
field strength in the service area, accomplished by adjusting the height 
of the current maxima in the antenna element.  All resonance means is 
that the reactive component of the impedance at the feed point is zero.  
A bigger problem for stations at the low end of the band ... KFI is at 
640 KHz ... is that the usable bandwidth of the antenna can be less than 
the bandwidth of the DSB signal. [:-)  Last time I saw KFI's tower from 
Interstate 5, it appeared to have a fairly large capacity hat.

Elecraft ATU's [even the KX1 which is necessarily small with a limited 
number of L-C selections] seem to handle reactive loads just fine 
suggesting [to me at least] that designing an antenna for azimuth and/or 
elevation pattern may be more beneficial than achieving resonance in the 
desired part of the band.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 12/17/2018 7:45 PM, W2xj wrote:
> Coming from the broadcast side, especially AM broadcasting, I never 
> considered resonance particularly important. Really it’s just the transmitter 
> that cares. We always put matching at the antenna but in ham radio we usually 
> have tuners at or in the TX.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Avoiding costly lightning damage to your radios gear

2018-10-30 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
All this is good info.  Some right on and some just there.  From decades of 
using wire antennas with 600 ohm ladder line to a switch yard for selection,  I 
use the old FORD approach.  All ladder lines have back to back old Ford spark 
plugs in front of all the switching.  The common point on the two plugs goes to 
the tower ground network. So even when the antenna is not selected the FORD's 
do their thing.  No failures to date except the the pole Pig on the service 
pole to the house, it took a direct hit and blew a hole in the side of it.  
Needless to say we were then on Generator back for a while.  Forgot to say the 
spark plugs have 5 w 1 Meg resistor across them to ground.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Fred Jensen 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2018 12:58 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Avoiding costly lightning damage to your radios gear
   
Does my K3 have a static bleed across the antenna terminal(s)?  A number 
of years ago, our CQP team in Alpine County fried the front end of an 
IC-760 II in a snow storm [precip static].  Then, with an accumulated 
300 or so years of amateur radio experience on the team, we replaced it 
with a spare ... and fried that one too. [:-)  I have a coax Tee with a 
100K resistor in a PL259 on my K3, just wondering if it's necessary.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 10/29/2018 8:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> Every year, especially in summer, our techs see radios come in that have been 
> damaged by lightning, despite the radio's protective circuitry. You can take 
> steps to reduce your own risk.
>
> 1. Many of us remember to disconnect antennas when lightning is anticipated. 
> But in our experience, the most common source of damage, by far, is from an 
> attached computer. Computers themselves often fail due to lightning strikes. 
> They can also act as conduits for surges to other gear. Just to emphasize 
> this point: Customers often say "I disconnected everything but the USB cable 
> to the computer...," which left the interface to their radio exposed.
>
> Note: Only in rare cases have we seen surge damage via other I/O ports 
> (accessory jack, paddle/keyer jacks, PTT IN, KEY OUT, and DC). USB and RS232 
> ports are the most susceptible.
>
> 2. Some stations have an ad-hoc ground system and little or no ESD or surge 
> protection. If you haven't already taken protective measures, we strongly 
> recommend reading this article, which goes into some detail regarding how 
> lightning finds its way in:
>
>    
>http://www.arrl.org/files/file/QST/This%20Month%20in%20QST/June2017/Chusid-Morgan.pdf
>
> At the very least, be sure your PC and other gear share a short, heavy, 
> common ground.
>
> 3. As for protecting your PC, here's a good starting point:
>
>      https://www.wikihow.com/Protect-a-PC-in-a-Thunderstorm
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Craziest / most rewarding QSOs

2018-09-14 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Back in the "good" days of sunspot 1957-58, and me a new ham and could only 
afford a Heath Kit Sixer.  So, I put a ground plane vertical up and while I 
lived on the Pacific coast, I could hear a  lot of local Pacific coast 
stations.  Now while the Sixer was good at local QSO's, how about now with the 
band wide open.    Remember these were the days of crystal bound transmitters 
and wideband super regen receivers.   I heard a station calling CQ in an 
oriental voice and I called and called.  Then I heard my call sign, WOW.  I 
worked a JA on 6 meters with 1/2 watt AM.       First real DX for the new ham.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bob Nielsen - N7XY 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 2:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Craziest / most rewarding QSOs
   
The most rewarding QSO I DIDN'T have:

A few sunspot cycles ago I tuned around 10 meters from my then-QTH in 
California.  The ONLY signal I could hear on the entire band was from a 
beacon station on Reunion Island, very copyable.

73, Bob N7XY
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas

2018-09-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
You said it Jim, but in to many words, It is installation specific, period.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Jim Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2018 1:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas
   
On 9/9/2018 12:39 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> How does one measure transmit antenna efficiency?

Not easily. :)  But NEC provides quite good predictions IF the antenna 
is completely and accurately described in the model. For verticals, that 
includes ground quality. For all antennas it includes height above 
ground, counterpoise, radial systems, and transmission lines.

AND -- propagation reporting systems like WSPR and the Reverse Beacon 
Network (RBN) can provide very good comparisons between antennas IF a 
LOT of reports from  a LOT of stations is averaged over a LOT of time.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas

2018-09-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
VERY CAREFULLY on an antenna range for that purpose.  You can model it and get 
an idea of what it should be, but it is installation specific.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
 To: Mel Farrer  
Cc: "don_roberts2...@yahoo.com" ; 
"Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2018 12:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas
   
How does one measure transmit antenna efficiency?  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 9, 2018, at 2:36 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Great Don,
> You and I grew up in the same time era..  
> Now, I am wiser and have more CRS,    Anyway, Here is my take on antennas 
> in general.  I have MANY that I can chose from at any time, HOWEVER,  Some 
> antennas "hear" better even if they are not as efficient as my transmitting 
> antenna.  The crazy thing is the good receiving antenna, when things get 
> tough, are not the most efficient on transmit.  Does that make sense?  I hope 
> so.
> Mel, K6KBE
> 
>      From: Don Roberts via Elecraft 
> To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
> Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2018 12:27 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas
> 
> Having been a ham since 1956, I also agree from my experience, that I along 
> with every ham I knew, used the same antenna to receive and transmit. From my 
> first home brew one tube, through my first Globe Chief kit, through Globe 
> Scout, NCX3, and Globe GTX 550, all in the 50/s and into the 60/s, and all 
> had the same antenna for receive and transmit. I too, went from the dpdt 
> knife switch, to the Dow Key relay. My QSL collection  confirms this for the 
> stations worked during that period. 
> 73, Don W4CBS 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas

2018-09-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Great Don,
You and I grew up in the same time era..  
Now, I am wiser and have more CRS,    Anyway, Here is my take on antennas 
in general.  I have MANY that I can chose from at any time, HOWEVER,  Some 
antennas "hear" better even if they are not as efficient as my transmitting 
antenna.  The crazy thing is the good receiving antenna, when things get tough, 
are not the most efficient on transmit.  Does that make sense?  I hope so.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Don Roberts via Elecraft 
 To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2018 12:27 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] ARRL book on receiving antennas
   
Having been a ham since 1956, I also agree from my experience, that I along 
with every ham I knew, used the same antenna to receive and transmit. From my 
first home brew one tube, through my first Globe Chief kit, through Globe 
Scout, NCX3, and Globe GTX 550, all in the 50/s and into the 60/s, and all had 
the same antenna for receive and transmit. I too, went from the dpdt knife 
switch, to the Dow Key relay. My QSL collection  confirms this for the stations 
worked during that period. 
73, Don W4CBS 
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] internet speed for remote K3S

2018-09-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Agreed, My Hughes net satellite service was a bust for it
Mel, K6KBE

  From: David F. Reed 
 To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, September 1, 2018 2:54 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] internet speed for remote K3S
   
My experience is exactly that; look out for latency; that is the 
killer.  Yes you need a minimal speed that is pretty good, but latency 
is a big issue; for example the satellite based ISPs are useless for 
this; adequate for streaming movies, etc. but latency is way to high...

73 de Dave, W5SV


On 9/1/18 3:30 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 9/1/2018 12:38 PM, David Cutter via Elecraft wrote:
>> Both
>> stations have access to broadband, but what speed will give satisfactory
>> results?
>
> Hi David,
>
> I've never done this, but reading from what others have done, I 
> suspect that latency may be as important as speed, especially if you 
> want to do CW contesting or break a DX pileup.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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-- 

שָׁלום עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום

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Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-28 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The only time I can make signals pop out is when I put in enough ATT to make 
noises floor S0.  Then it is like a FM channel when signal come in.  BUT the 
incoming signal needs to be several S units above the quiet noise floor to 
truly open the gate so to speak.  Weak signals near the noise floor do not open 
the gate.


Mel, K6KBE

  From: Wes Stewart 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2018 1:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations
   
I've been at this for 60 years now and the only time I've ever heard signals 
"pop out of the noise" was when I was working 2-meter meteor scatter.  Where 
have I gone wrong?

Wes  N7WS


On 8/27/2018 8:02 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> When you can just barely hear the no-signal band noise, signals will tend to 
> pop out of the noise. 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] SWR - Numerical Indication

2018-07-27 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Dick, 
While Bob is correct, the bottom line is not SWR but the R and j numbers.  
There are numerous values that will give you a 1.1:1, but only 50+j0 will be 
the true match of 1.0:1.  So,unless you do not have the equipment to measure 
the polar values, be thankful you have 1.1:1.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 1:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] SWR - Numerical Indication
   
Yes, the K3S SWR display can show a 1.0:1 value.  But in my case,  it 
does not exactly agree with another instrument in the feed line system. 
     As to why you are showing two different values, as minute as they 
are I might add, you are measuring 2 different places in the feed line. 
   In my thinking, it is physically impossible to put two  SWR bridges 
in the same place electrically.

In theory the SWR on a given line should be the same at all places, but 
maybe not since there is loss of some minute value in the line.      
Since you are measuring on antennas, common mode current, may be the 
contributing cause.  Difference in measurement calibration, may be a 
factor as well.

VSWR bridges are calibrated with some specific value of load. Ideally, 
it is 50 ohm non-reactive, but it could be 49 ohms or 51 ohms or some 
other value.   Just because a load says "50 ohms" on the label is no 
real indication that is actually fact.    To that end, I have 3 dummy 
loads which are "50 ohm" loads according to the label but none are not 
true 50 ohm loads.    I do have a Celwave load that says 50.5 ohms on 
the label and measures 50.5 ohms per my General Radio bridge.    The 
others are +/- something, but good enough to evaluate a ham transmitter 
or amplifier.

Frankly, a difference between 1.1:1 and 1.0:1 won't make any realistic 
difference in any form or fashion other than to appease the operator.

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 7/27/2018 9:58 AM, Dick Dickinson wrote:
> I've noticed that I'm not showing a reading of less than 1.1:1 SWR on my
> antennas per K3 SWR Numerical Readout.  K3EZ will record 1.0:1 SWR in band
> sweeps.
>
> Can the K3(S) Numerical Display show 1.0:1 SWR?  If so, is there a likely
> reason why K3EZ will show 1.0:1 while my K3 will only go as far down as
> 1.1:1?
>
>
> Dick -  KA5KKT
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

2018-07-19 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
It would be interesting to follow the temp rise profile with the ticking.  
Since the ticking continues over different operating conditions, it is hard to 
tell if the overall ticking is tracking the temp.  Seems to sound the same 
throughout..  I don't like it at all.  Too much thermal resistance 
differential.  Not good..
Mel, K6KBE 

  From: Martin Sole 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2018 8:45 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
   
I'm of the same mind, though a KPA1500 is more my preference to replace 
one of the aging tube monsters here.

Good stuff Sorbothane.

Sorbothane was specifically designed for shock absorption 
<https://www.sorbothane.com/what-is-a-good-material-for-shock-absorption.aspx> 
and is manufactured to outperform every other material on the market. 
What makes Sorbothane the best material for shock absorption?

  * It absorbs more than 90% of shock energy and more than 50% of
    vibration energy;
  * It performs in temperatures ranging from –20° to 160° Fahrenheit
    (–29° to 72° Celsius)];
  * It performs at frequencies ranging from 10 to 30,000 Hertz;
  * It’s damping ratio is 0.344 at 2.34 HZ;
  * It doesn’t support bacterial or fungal growth and is relatively
    unaffected by industrial solvents such as diesel fuel, kerosene, and
    hydraulic fluid;
  * It has an extremely long shelf life; and
  * It has a superior damping coefficient.

But I wonder about that temp rating :-)



On 19/07/2018 21:01, Clay Autery wrote:
> Y'all are making me want to find a unit with this "issue" now just so 
> I can solve the mystery
>
> IF it is the aluminum fins "creaking" due to rapid thermal 
> expansion/contraction, one possible/probably solution is a small 
> Sorbothane damper attached across the fins in an appropriate spot  
> Can likely be don without measurably challenging the airflow...
>
> 73,
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 19-Jul-18 08:18, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> The ticking sound is clearly the resonant aluminum heat sink fins. 
>> The mechanical shrinking or expanding is abrupt and resonates the 
>> fins much like a tuning fork.
>> My take on it...
>>
>> Chuck
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> _
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>> [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of Martin Sole 
>> [hs0...@gmail.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 8:37 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
>>
>> I think it sounds "orrible!". I'm quite used to the low rumble of the
>> blower in my Alpha 77D but that ticking would be like Chinese water
>> torture to me. Listening to an individual tick it does seem to have a
>> ring to it. Okay the recording was perhaps not the most acoustically
>> perfect but it certainly does sound as if the ring is from the source
>> and not any sort of artifact. If it is from the source then I think you
>> can probably find a way to damp it. First trick will be to identify the
>> specific source.
>>
>> I had read other comments about a ticking, always imagined it to be
>> minimal and essentially unobtrusive but if what you have recorded is
>> anything like how it sounds sat in front of it then definitely it does
>> sound pretty bad to me and not just in amplitude but also in its timbre,
>> pitch, and repetition rate.
>>
>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>
>>
>> On 19/07/2018 06:25, ANDY DURBIN wrote:
>>> I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording 
>>> while making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be 
>>> found here:
>>>
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in 
>>> Audacity to amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first 
>>> TX. Next the hum of the transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation 
>>> in the background from TX moni.   As the recording progresses the 
>>> changes in fan speed can be heard. The click are always well above 
>>> the fan noise.
>>>
>>> I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the 
>>> clicks.  I took one sample at the click and another sample of the 
>>> noise just before the click.  I then subtracted the noise from the 
>>> click and I think I have a reasonable click signature to use as a 
>>> baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I make in an attempt 
>>> to reduce the clicks.
>>>
>&g

Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

2018-07-18 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
One of the things that the standby generators have over inverters etc, is a 
rotating mass.  My water cooled 30 KW diesel Generac runs the whole farm and 
house on power outages and behaves like the others mentioned, it never misses a 
beat or hicups with the deep well pimp or 5KW electric dryer kicks in.  Mine 
has been in service for over 25 years, and keeps on ticking..  No soft 
starts, staging or such anywhere.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "wb4...@knology.net" 
 To: AB4IQ ; "'Joe Subich, W4TV'" ; 
'Elecraft'  
 Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 2:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...
   
Not "soft-start", but

We have a Generac 20kW air-cooled generator at our house, that works 
wonderfully!  IIRC, anything larger is water-cooled.  Our house has two, 
200amp breaker panels.  We have three A/C units, an induction cooktop, 
ovens, dryer, and other goodies.  When I started looking for a whole-house 
generator, almost every electrical contractor/company told me that I needed 
a 37kW, water-cooled generator, which has a small car engine for a motor. 
Generac even told them to tell me that's what needed for the loading and 
wiring in my house.

I had done some research, and found that Generac sold a system that works 
with their ATS, called Nexus (or Nexys, or similar spelling).  It includes 
"smart switches" that go in series with each heavy load device, such that 
the ATS can control those switches to turn on/of various loads, depending on 
what's running at any given time.  There was only one electrical company 
here in Charleston, SC, that even knew about this system, they had just 
taken a course on it.  Needless to say, they got my business.

We've been through both summer and winter storm outages, up to about 24 
hours, and the whole system works great!  It does "stage" the air 
conditioners, depending on the load.  The cost is higher, but I did NOT want 
a water-cooled car engine running on the side of my house.

I've also switched to Rennai water heaters to get rid of constantly heating 
water for occasional use.  We do have natural gas at the house, so the 
generator runs on that.  We were going to get a gas cooktop, but during the 
kitchen remodel, we found the induction cooktop is as fast or faster than 
gas, and keeps the cooktop very clean.  We can cook stuff with a layer of 
butcher paper between the cooktop and the pan.  Highly recommended.
73, Terry, N4TLF


-Original Message- 
From: AB4IQ
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 5:20 PM
To: 'Joe Subich, W4TV' ; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...

I have a Generac 20 KW here at the house and a 22KW Generac at the farm.  I
have Central Heat/Air in my garage and house and you never see a blink when
the compressors kick on.  There are times when both are running like at the
present time with all of the high temperatures.  Last week we had a three or
so hour outage and the 20 KW never missed a beat.  At the farm, which is all
electric we had a 5 hour outage and the 22KW never missed a beat.  They do
make devices that the water heater and air will not work at the same time or
at least partially from what I understand.  I also have a well at the farm
and we see no problems at all.

We had an Ice Storm here in W. Kentucky in 2009 and was out of power for six
or seven days.  We won't go through with that again.  HI..

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 1:30 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] A/C "Soft Start" ...


A year (two?) ago there was a discussion of whole house standby generators
on this list.  One of the things mentioned was "soft start" modules for A/C
and other heavy current motor devices.

Of course, the discussion was not pertinent to me at the time - we've been
using a 6 KW portable for 10 years or more.  But now the wife has decided it
is time to get auto-start and capability to handle the A/C.  She doesn't
want to spend another weak without A/C like we've faced following both
Matthew two years ago and Irma last year and doesn't want to risk that my
back/neck won't act up and prevent me from rolling out/starting the old
portable.

Does anyone have a pointer to the A/C soft start controllers?  I know our
A/C (168 LRA) will certainly bog down even the biggest (22 KW) whole house
unit (and going to a 30 or 50 KW just to start the A/C is not economically
effective at 3 to 5 X the cost ).

-- 

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote with Satellite

2018-07-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Most of the Remote SDR sites use the satellite and the delay is excessive when 
trying to listen to yourself.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Mitch Wolfson DJ0QN / K7DX 
 To: John Perlick ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Saturday, July 7, 2018 12:13 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote with Satellite
   
John,

The latency is too high, around three quarters of a second, of which 
most (around 530 ms) is caused by the trip up and down to the satellite 
and back. The rest is internet latency of a couple of hundred ms.

73,
Mitch DJ0QN

-- 
Mitch Wolfson  K7DX / DJ0QN
10285 Boca Cir, Naples, FL 34109
Skype: mitchwo
USA: Home:+1-239-221-9600 - Mobile:+1-424-288-9171
Germany: Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436

On 07.07.2018 21:05, John Perlick wrote:
> Has anyone tried remote operation with a satellite internet connection?  I’m 
> wondering if the latency is excessive.
>
> I am looking into a remote Elecraft Station.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John
> K0UM
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

2018-06-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Oh, I was just reminded of an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  I 
think that ratio is 16 to 1. Only issue is look carefully at the application 
and plan accordingly or spend a lot of time and money trying to fix it.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Jim Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, June 4, 2018 4:19 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue
   
That's fine if cost is no object. Acoustics is part of the problem -- 
ignore it at your peril. :)

73, Jim K9YC

On 6/4/2018 3:06 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> While I appreciate all of the sound proofing suggestions, the old rule keeps 
> coming back.: " Stop the source as much possible FIRST."  I hate patches..
> Mel, K6KBE


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

2018-06-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
While I appreciate all of the sound proofing suggestions, the old rule keeps 
coming back.: " Stop the source as much possible FIRST."  I hate patches..
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, June 4, 2018 2:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue
   
One of my favorite methods of sound treatment is the products in the 
link following: http://www.sonex-online.com/Pro%20Audio.htm

There are many other products, and many individuals use their own 
creative means to be effective in sound absorption.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2018 1:00 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 6/4/2018 8:34 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> Room acoustics play a big part of the "how loud" factor. Absorptive 
>> materials applied to the walls an ceiling of a room, specially small 
>> rooms,  do reduce the build up of sound / noise emitted from fans and 
>> blowers.
>
> YES! This is excellent advice. Indeed, the first place to put 
> absorptive material is on wall surfaces around the amp, treating other 
> wall surfaces can also help a lot. Hard surfaces contain the sound, 
> causing it to bounce around the room. Soft surfaces absorb the sound, 
> causing it to die out more quickly.
>
> Mechanical coupling of vibration to the desk increases the audibility 
> of noise, so it can also help to isolate the amp from the shelf it is 
> sitting on.
>
> Fan noise on the transmitted signal can be minimized in several ways, 
> all of which are pretty simple.
>
> First, keep the mic close to your mouth -- sound falls off by 6dB per 
> doubling of distance. Boom mics, like the CM500, are great for this. 
> For best sound quality, I try to keep the mic an inch or two above and 
> to the side of my mouth. The principle is to maximize speech and 
> minimize noise -- a simple signal to noise problem.
>
> Second, don't turn mic gain up higher than needed, and don't overdo 
> compression. This is the primary cause of excessive noise on 
> transmitted signals.
>
> Third, set TXEQ to emphasize the speech range and de-emphasize other 
> sound. My guideline EQ settings do this -- max cut of the three lower 
> bands, 6 dB cut of the fourth band (400 Hz), and then get reports from 
> a careful listener.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - measured (sort of)

2018-06-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Bob please give us the model number of your acoustic level meter, Thanks.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO" 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Monday, June 4, 2018 1:44 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - measured (sort of)
   
Hello Bob,

Thanks for the measurements! Was this with the Alpha’s auxiliary fan on or off? 
You will find this fan and its belonging switch on the amplifiers back on the 
right side where the power supply transformer sits.


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
Stefan v. Baltz
dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





> Am 03.06.2018 um 20:33 schrieb Bob Rennard via Elecraft 
> :
> 
> My measurements were taken with a microphone about 2 feet from the front 
> panels of the components.  I wondered if W2PA’s alpha 89 was as quiet as he 
> reported, so I thought I’d report on what I found -  
> 
> 
> 
> Ham shack in a finished (insulated drywall) room in a metal shed with 
> equipment and HVAC off - 24 dBa
> 
> Above with Mitsubishi HVAC on - 29 dBa
> 
> HVAC was then turned off for the remainder of these measurements
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans off (step 0)  - 36 dBa
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 1  - 40 dBa
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 2  - 44 dBa
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 3  - 50 dBa
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 4  - 57 dBa
> 
> KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 5  - 59 dBa
> 
> 
> alpha 87a (everything else off) - 50 dBa - the fans run at a fixed speed when 
> mains power is applied
> 
> 
> My experience for S CW during WPX is that the KPA1500 PA temp rose to about 
> 64C so that the deck fans were at Step 2.  During a recent RTTY contest, the 
> deck rose above 70C and the fans were running at Step 3 pushing a lot of warm 
> air out of the vent holes above the heat sink.  
> 
> 
> 73 & YMMV,
> 
> 
> Bob Rennard = N7WY
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

2018-06-03 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Wayne, 
You missed one.  Depending on operation whether it is internal battery or 
external supply.  I have had problems with a lot of external source, so always 
put a dummy load on the antenna a see if the noise is conducted or radiated.  
Just one more reason to go solar/battery in the field.  Yu.
Mel, K6KBE with KX3 is all applications

  From: Wayne Burdick 
 To: Mike Parkes  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3
   
Mike,

What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be 
debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set MENU:RX SHFT 
to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient setup if you 
have monster signals actually causing IMD. 
 
Also try turning off the preamp. 

If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high noise 
floor. Here are a few more things you can try:

1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature (audio 
peaking filter). 

2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources. 

3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have directional 
characteristics you can make use of. 

If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A location 
far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air, both 
atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless, like me, 
you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some 
perspective about your noise at home. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

 




http://www.elecraft.com

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> 
> Hey group
> I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
> only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
> the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> mountain peak... I know... :)
> 
> 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - measured (sort of)

2018-06-02 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Thanks Chris,
I do not think I will buy the current configuration of the KPA-1500 fans.  I 
was seriously doing so..  I would still like to know the model number of 
the fans. 
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "Chris Codella, W2PA" 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 4:14 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - measured (sort of)
   
In an attempt to quantify this, I installed OSHA's free NIOSH app, which 
measures noise, onto my iPhone 7 and tried it out.  It's not a 
measurement instrument, mind you, so the absolute numbers are highly 
questionable.  But the relative numbers are interesting.  I held the 
phone at eye level between me and my computer monitor, about 2 feet from 
the amplifiers.  Here are the results:

dB measured with NIOSH app, rounded to two significant digits:

46 - for comparison - an Alpha 89 running as normal
48 - KPA1500 at fan level 0 (i.e. PS fans only)
51 - fan level 1 (i.e. center fan plus PS fans)
57 - fan level 2 (all fans on)
64 - fan level 3 (all fans on)
67 - fan level 4 (all fans on)
76 - fan level 5 (all fans on)

Similar to other comments I've read, I find up through level 2 to be 
okay.  At 3 and above I need headphones or, better still, noise 
cancelling ones.  My experience thus far is that on SSB in normal 
conversation at 1500W it stays at level 0 with an occasional excursion 
into level 1 if I'm long winded.  In the CW WPX test last weekend, 
strictly in S mode, it stayed at level 0. Experiments with CQing and 
on FT-8 are yet to come and I'm sure will require higher speeds.

73,
Chris, W2PA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise

2018-06-02 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Hello Ted,
I haven't owned an airplane in years either, 1995 when I sold my BD-4, Darn.
However, As I grow older and the ears get weaker, having to listen to fan noise 
mixed with SSB voice is a concern.  I am an engineer of sorts and know that 
there are ways to control the noise from fans.  Efficient vane design for lower 
RPM operation and still produce the required CFM.  So what is the dBa of the 
1500 at 0-5 levels?  My ears like to hear <25 dBa noise.  The noise in the 
Utube video WAS way above that.  NOT good.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "Dauer, Edward" 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 2:15 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise
   

I have been following this thread with interest because I have a KPA1500 on 
order, and I have very limited flexibility as to where the RF deck can go 
compared to where I will have to sit.

Don's video was very well done and a great help in understanding the realities.

I know zero about thermodynamics, and so wanted only to say thanks to everyone 
who is contributing ideas, and to make but two comments.    

First, as to water cooling, I suspect it would be a huge weight penalty to get 
the cooling fluid everywhere it needs to be.  So far as I know there is only 
one reciprocating engine made for aircraft that has a water jacket.  (There 
might be others nowadays - I haven't owned an airplane for some years.)  The 
reasons others don't are reliability, safety, complexity, and - mostly - 
weight.  Second, isn't this largely a contest-operating issue?  I believe we 
are still governed by the rule that we may use only that amount of power 
necessary for the communication.    I contest too, so I'll face the problem on 
those occasions, but not for casual ragchews.  I plan to make some graphs of 
when in terms of time, power, mode and band the fans on mine kick up a notch, 
and use it as a general operating guideline if I need to.

Ted, KN1CBR



Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 08:48:46 -0600
    From: Don Butler 
    To: Paul Baldock ,     "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
        
    Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise Video posted
    Message-ID: 
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
    
    Paul ?. The PS noise is minimal from my point of view.  The power supply 
fans do run continuously while the amp is switched on ?. You can hear the PS 
fans at the beginning and end of the video when the fan speed is set at ?0? .. 
all you?re hearing at that time is the PS fan ? at power down right at the end 
you can hear when the PS fans stop.
    
    Don, N5LZ
    
    

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure

2018-06-02 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
There are several "watering holes"  on 6M.  50.140, 50.250, etc.  Mainly local 
groups, but it does let you know when the band is active.  Of course the FM 
channels are a good source also.  I have been on 6M since 1956.  Ahhh those 
were the days.     
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Rose 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 9:57 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure
   
IMO … based on years of 6M operating.

Use 50.125 as a calling frequency -only-.  NEVER hold
a QSO, however "short", on this frequency.  Typically
one would say "CQ, this is XXX, listening 50.125(+),
if wanting SSB QSO's or 50.125(-) or so if wanting CW
QSO's.  After the initial CQ, I seldom even listen to 50.125
for a reply.

Simply put, I won't be the source of QRM on the calling
frequency.

I'm supposedly in a rare grid and have sometimes had
a "run" of several hours duration, based on just one
initial call on 50.125.

FWIW ...

73!

Ken - K0PP
DN36 - Montana
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Re: [Elecraft] LCD issue

2018-05-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Carl,
That looks like RFI into the CPU.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Carl Yaffey 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 11:20 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] LCD issue
   
Again, running 1000w on 6m and lcd goes haywire occasionally. 
See  http://www.carl-yaffey.com/lcd.html <http://www.carl-yaffey.com/lcd.html>


Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com
http://www.bluesswing.com

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Re: [Elecraft] More on KPA1500 lcd

2018-05-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Question, did the pattern on the LCD "move with modulation"? RFI, bad 
grounding??
Mel, K6KBE 

  From: Carl Yaffey 
 To: K9MA  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
 Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 8:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More on KPA1500 lcd
   
OK. I’m not alone! Hi hi


> On May 31, 2018, at 11:43 AM, K9MA  wrote:
> 
> I observed some weird display stuff while testing the ATU on, I believe, 10 
> meters. Reset didn't clear it, cycling power did. Happened a couple times. 
> 
> 73,
> Scott K9MA
> 
> --
> 
> Scott Ellington
> 
> --- via iPad
> 

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com
http://www.bluesswing.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?

2018-03-25 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I do also carefully reflow..  Don't what any popping loose.  Usually with a 
finger on the part.  Wrist strap on of course.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bill Johnson <k9...@live.com>
 To: 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 2:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim 
before or after soldering?
   
I populate, solder, cut, re-solder.  

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ
FT’er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc. 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> On 
Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 4:08 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr <c-haw...@illinois.edu>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; JEROME SODUS <jso...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim 
before or after soldering?

And trimming before soldering allows the exposed copper “end” of the lead to be 
coated with solder thus eliminating corrosion to the bare copper. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 25, 2018, at 2:05 PM, hawley, charles j jr <c-haw...@illinois.edu> 
> wrote:
> 
> That's probably good advice from NASA. However in 50 years, I've never 
> cracked a solder joint by trimming off the excess lead after soldering. I can 
> see how it could be imagined to happen and safer for sure if you are not 
> going to be able to fix it should it ever happen.
> 
> Chuck Hawley
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of JEROME SODUS 
> [jso...@comcast.net]
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2018 10:40 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim 
> before or after soldering?
> 
> About Message#15 copied below
> 
> Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted the 
> soldered connection left undisturbed.
> 
> If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get a 
> verbal warning that first time and a written warning if it ever happened 
> again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do that.
> 
> So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires before 
> doing the final soldering.
> 
> 73 Jerry KM3K
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:39:47 +
> From: Bill Johnson <k9...@live.com>
> To: "ksto...@ac0h.net" <ksto...@ac0h.net>, 'Mark Petrovic'
> <mspetro...@gmail.com>, "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
> <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation
> techniques: trim before or after soldering?
> Message-ID:
> <ro1p152mb09079615622cf62bbae2b4949c...@ro1p152mb0907.lamp152.prod.out
> LOOK.COM>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Follow the instructions and solder as directed. There are components on both 
> sides as I recall with the majority on the top. The leads need be spread to 
> hold the components in place on the board. Once done soldering use a flush 
> cut wirecutter to remove the excess. Not a good idea to trim them before 
> soldering.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 TX Sample

2018-03-23 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
While all of the info is correct, I also like to mention that an inline station 
monitor is also a great device.  I use a old Kenwood SM-220 as a permenant part 
of the station.  That lets me see the RF amplitude and the linearity of the 
signal.  The trapozoid is used mostly to keep tabs on any hint of distortion.  
Lots of info on its use.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: David Box <do...@suddenlink.net>; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2018 11:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 TX Sample
   
Dave,

Since that "coupler" has only one output, it is not a full forward and 
reverse coupler, so it could be nothing more than a toroid output with 
the wire carrying the full output going through the center of the core - 
in other words, it can just be an "RF Sampler", and in that case it 
would not have to be placed in a place where the load is 50 ohms.

I think there will be more information to come about its function.  For 
the time being, it is safe to assume it is not a calibrated output, but 
simply a tap to observe the output waveform, rather than an amplitude 
measuring device.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/23/2018 2:14 PM, David Box wrote:
> Don
>
> Was fairly certain that units were used incorrect but ya' never know 
> so appreciate confirmation.
>
> Wanting to get linearity test ready so now I know what is needed to 
> set up.  I always want to monitor a new amp and the inclusion of this 
> output allows that.
>
> Now I do have one other "assumption" and that is the coupler is before 
> the internal ATU so it is always working with a 50 ohm load, hopefully 
> that is correct.
>
> 73
>
> Dave K5MWR
>
>
> On 3/23/2018 10:23 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> David,
>>
>> It is just a coupler - nothing else makes sense for that use, so your 
>> -60dB assumption is correct.  Yes, it is relative to the output, so 
>> dBm is not the proper designation.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 3/23/2018 10:09 AM, David Box wrote:
>>> I am trying to get ready for delivery of the KPA1500 and have become 
>>> confused about the information available for the TX Sample port.
>>>
>>> The only information I can find states that this is a low-level 
>>> signal of -60dBm but dBm is a measure of absolute power which would 
>>> put this signal at 1 nanowatt.
>>>
>>> My first thought is that this is a typo and meant to show that the 
>>> signal level on the port is -60dB with respect to output but need 
>>> some verification.
>>
>>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

2018-02-25 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Frankly, just get a neighbor.  I used one to get my 750 lb Bauer 707 broadcast 
transmitter into my basement with a handtruck
Mel, K6KBE

  From: RIchard Williams via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 10:07 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500
   
 For Pete's (or fill in your own noun) sake, I can't believe all the hubbub 
about moving a box from the front porch to the basement!!  Unless Bill is a 
hermit, how about asking another amateur radio operator in the area to help 
out; or a next door neighbor?   Unless I am living in a different world of 
amateur radio, I have never had a problem finding another "ham" to help me when 
needed; and I have helped out many other amateurs since I have been in the 
hobby since 1961.
My two cents worth.
Dick, K8ZTT
     
    On Sunday, February 25, 2018, 10:10:45 AM MST, Alan <n...@sonic.net> wrote: 
 
 
 Or go to Walmart and buy a $30 hand truck.

Alan N1AL


On 02/25/2018 07:44 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> No special arrangements should be necessary.
> When the large box is delivered, he can open it (without any need to 
> lift it), and remove the two boxes one at a time.
> 
> If he cannot easily remove the two boxes from the larger one because it 
> is a tight fit, it is easy to bend one flap down and roll the box over 
> that flap and over again so the box is sitting on its open end.  Then it 
> is easy to lift the outer box off with no struggle.
> The way the gear is packaged, it will survive that "rolling over" with 
> no harm at all.
> 
> I do that regularly at trade shows for the K3, and more recently the 
> KPA1500 because it is difficult to lift the units vertically out of the 
> box due to the tight fit and the resistance of the foam shipping 
> material to the sides of the box.  Much easier to roll it over and lift 
> off the box.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 2/25/2018 3:53 AM, G4GNX wrote:
> 
>>
>> What Bill wants is two SEPARATE boxes to be shipped to him, without an 
>> outer wrapper to combine them. He wants to be able to carry EACH box 
>> separately from his door to his shack, so that he doesn't strain his 
>> back.
>>
>> Perhaps special arrangements can be made for Bill? My other suggestion 
>> would be to have the package delivered to the front door, then remove 
>> each box individually and carry them separately indoors.
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] BNC connector oddity on KX3

2018-02-19 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Hi all, 
I have found that over the years the female BNC has a fatigue problem.  That 
is, the fingers of the either 2 way or 4 way mating receptical relax and spread 
apart.  Takes a keen eye to see it, but it does happen. Most of the mating 
recepticals can be reshaped to the original tight fit, some of the imports are 
not that good.  When I find them now I replace them.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "'Dale Parfitt' pari...@frontier.com [KX3]" 
<kx3-nore...@yahoogroups.com>
 To: "'Chris Cox, N0UK'" <ygsoftroc...@chris.org>; 'rich hurd WC3T' 
<r...@wc3t.us> 
Cc: k...@yahoogroups.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 11:59 AM
 Subject: RE: [KX3] BNC connector oddity on KX3
   
    The center pin on 50 Ohm and 75 Ohm BNC’s has been identical for perhaps 20 
years. The 75 Ohm impedance is now attained through modification of the 
connector’s dielectric structure.  Regards,  Dale W4OP  From: 
k...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:k...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of 'Chris Cox, 
N0UK' ygsoftroc...@chris.org [KX3]
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 12:29 PM
To: rich hurd WC3T
Cc: k...@yahoogroups.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [KX3] BNC connector oddity on KX3    Not saying this IS the 
problem but i fth emale BNC plug is a 75 ohm
connector, its centre pin will be a narrower diameter and may only be
making intermittent contact with the female socket on the KX3.

--
73 Chris Cox, N0UK, G4JEC
chr...@chris.org

On Mon, 19 Feb 2018, rich hurd WC3T r...@wc3t.us [KX3] wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I had an oddity with hooking an antenna to the BNC connector on my KX3 that
> happened enough times to be chalked up to something other than random
> chance. Looking for opinions on whether my solution aligned to your
> experience(s).
>
> I have a complete station - a KX3, a PX3, and a KXPA100. The KXPA100 is
> connected via a Cables On Demand connector with a PL259 on one end and a
> BNC connector on the other end. All other interface cables are Elecraft
> standard.
>
> This is NOT the first BNC connector that I've used. Prior to this last
> acquisition I had a couple of other BNC to PL259 jumpers that I was using,
> and the usual smattering of connectors and adapters in the junque box.
>
> No matter which one I used, If I removed the BNC connector from the rig
> (maybe to go portable, for example, or the last time it was because I
> installed Eneloop Pro batteries to the internal battery holders) I would
> put everything back together, and then would have severe - almost
> debilitating - signal attenuation when I got the rig fired up. If I
> twisted and spun the BNC connector on the jack, it would improve, and then
> get bad again more often than not. It could take up to 20 minutes to get
> everything "dialed in" so that the signal was appearing again. God help me
> if I accidentally moved something after that. And of course, while all
> this was happening the ATU was having fits, with 99:1 SWR readings and the
> amp was going offline; all kinds of weirdnesses. After things calmed
> down. the ATU behaved itself, the amp stopped being pouty, and all was then
> good.
>
> Thankfully, now that I have the Cables On Demand product, things seem to
> have quieted down - although I still don't disconnect without provocation.
> :) Though I'm desperately afraid of when I start to go mobile after the
> snow melts and the weather gets nice again. :) Hope I can get my IC706
> fixed and back in service as my base station before that occurs.
>
> My question was going to be in desperation more than anything else if this
> last cable didn't work, but thankfully, that's been the only cable vendor
> that I trust for any of my specialized cables and they haven't failed me
> even with this one.
>
> Are BNC connectors that finicky? Is it possible that I just had a bad
> batch of low quality jumpers? I'm just wondering if anyone else has had
> excessive fiddling with their BNC connections.
>
> ---
> 72,
> Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
> PA Army MARS, Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer
> for Scouting
> Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75..288988 (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
> *FN20is*
>  __._,_.___ Posted by: "Dale Parfitt" <pari...@frontier.com> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re who would spend 30 hours building a k2?

2018-01-30 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Beyond that, the manuals are VERY detailed and for most part as complete as one 
could expect, HOWEVER, the builder needs to have the mental attitude to take a 
step back and think like you are just starting and reread and recheck every 
step. When you do, it IS a very rewarding experience and LOTS of FUN.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'W4EDN' <w4...@bellsouth.net>; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 3:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re who would spend 30 hours building a k2?
   
If you are interested in building as well as operating it's a pleasant
experience. Just like a 10 mile hike, you do it one simple, easy step at a
time. 

Those who seem to have had trouble just wanted a K2 to operate and tried to
put the kit together as quickly as possible without double-checking their
work at each step along the way. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W4EDN
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:52 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re who would spend 30 hours building a k2?

I bought a used k2 and just spent 12 hrs building a Kant-100.
The k2 looks like a bigger challenge .
Mine had the 100w amp included.
Bill

Sent from my iPod
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Re: [Elecraft] PTT switch for K3

2018-01-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I have tried hand switches and always found the need to use that hand also,  
Darn.  So I built up a simple foot switch with a "hinge"  Yes a door hinge and 
put a micro switch on the bottom with a simple flexible cable about 10' long to 
the radio.  KISS and not bulky.
Mel K6KBE

  From: David Christ <radio...@mchsi.com>
 To: "Dauer, Edward" <eda...@law.du.edu> 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 11:03 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PTT switch for K3
   
I rolled my own using a small microswitch from my junk box. No larger than a 
couple of sugar cubes.  A little shrink tubing to cover exposed terminals.  
Cost almost nothing and works better than any other I have used.  Force to 
operate is small so no fatigue.

David K0LUM


> On Jan 7, 2018, at 8:57 AM, Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu> wrote:
> 
> I plan to try the SSB QSO party next weekend, and have the adapter for the K3 
> and a Heil headset – but I need a remote PTT switch with a ¼ inch mono plug 
> on one end and a pushbutton switch at the other.  All I have been able to 
> find online are nurse call buttons – which I suppose would work but the big 
> red cross on the button is off-putting, and because they are made for use in 
> a hospital environment they are expensive.  Anyone suggest a source?
> 
> Thanks, as always,
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer

2017-12-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The FG-01 is  good IF the unit has the improved 2nd harmonic suppression.  Some 
of the earlier ones only had -6 dB down 2nd.  I have two and the first one went 
back twice to fix it.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Doug Person <d...@k0dxv.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, December 1, 2017 9:24 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer
   
I have several antenna analyzers. The best value I think is the YouKits 
FG-01 <https://www.vibroplex.com/contents/en-us/p190.html> .  It's price 
is on the lower end of the scale. It's color display and feature set are 
outstanding. I also have the MFJ 223 which is very compact and highly 
functional. These two are particularly good for travel due to their very 
small size.

73, Doug -- K0DXV


On 12/1/17 8:34 AM, Dick Dickinson wrote:
> Thanks folks for the rundown on current small Antenna Analyzers.
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Dick - KA5KKT
>
>  
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Minicircuits splitter for diversity?

2017-11-06 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
OK, Let's talk about the isolation charteristics of just transformer splitters 
and REAL HP/LP duplexers.  With splitters, I think you are subject to mismatch 
isolation problems if the loads are not matched.  Same with Duplexers, but most 
desighs allow for some matching, at least the ones I design do.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Alan Bloom <n...@sonic.net>
 To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 4:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Minicircuits splitter for diversity?
   
And don't forget that the isolation spec assumes a perfectd 50-ohm
termination on all ports.  For example if one of the ports is seeing a
load with a 10 dB return loss, then the isolation will be no better than
10 dB. 

Alan N1AL 

On 2017-11-06 13:06, Jim Brown wrote:

> No -- the Mini-Circuits splitters provide significant isolation between the 
> ports so that, for example, a local oscillator on one port isn't fed to the 
> other port(s). The degree of this is the dB spec for isolation.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> On 11/6/2017 12:21 PM, Michael Walker wrote: 
> 
>> Is that any different than your basic cable splitter other than it has BNC
>> and not F connectors?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2

2017-10-28 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Ted,
 If the people at Elecraft have done their job and mounted the transistor 
properly with the correct torque on the mounting hardware procedure, no 
additional maintainance is required. I have been in the industry for a LONG 
time .  Three things to remember in the mounting of any RF or high power 
device.  Flat surfaces, minimual mating gu, and required torque. Lack of any of 
these will kill a device if not correct.  I have never required retorqueing 
parts, with one exception.   In 000 copper wire terminals, the copper does 
relax and needs to be retorqued to achieve a gas tight seal connection, but 
that is in industrial application.  Small RF devices only need the initial 
torque to be correct.

Mel, K6KBE

  From: Cameron Francey <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com>
 To: "Dauer, Edward" <eda...@law.du.edu>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 12:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2
   
A nice tip which I use when looking for anything in any sort of .pdf manual, 
Elecraft included as I have accumulated quite a number of them over time is to 
use the search feature on the .pdf reader.  Ctrl+f on WIndows and cmd+f on Mac 
and type what I'm looking for.  The index and contents tables are good, but 
obviously can't have everything in them, so I use the find feature a lot.


Hope this helps.


Regards, Cameron - AF7DK/GM7LQR



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on 
behalf of Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 8:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that after some number of hours of 
operation – maybe 50 – the hardware holding Q7 and Q8 onto the heat sink should 
be tightened, I presume to maintain good heat conduction from the tabs to the 
sink.  But I can’t find that instruction in the manual now.  Anyone know where 
I might have gotten that notion, or did I just make it up?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for Introducing a 10-year-old to Amateur Radio and Electronics

2017-10-17 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I started with a flyer from Summer school that showed how to make a crystal 
set.  Simple stuff, took a week or so to gather the materials and wire it all 
up with a wood burning converted soldering iron, hi.  We did it on a bread 
board that Mom said was too marked up.  Used a telephone hand held receiver, a 
cold water ground and a wire somewhere in the trees, and WE HAD AUDIO.  We 
could hear the AM stations quite well.  Then came the Regen receiver out of 
1940's Popular Mechanic article.  We had CW.. Thats all it took for 
this ten year old in 1948.I was hooked..
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Alan Geller via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 1:51 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for Introducing a 10-year-old to Amateur 
Radio and Electronics
   
Here is one more approach:

I took a pine 1X2 and cut it into 3” pieces ; then screwed a couple of 
Fahnstock clips into the
tops of each one near the ends. I then selected an assortment of 2 node 
components plus a
pile of 6” cut copper wire pieces.
Whoopee…we could then make stuff…doorbell plus switch, simple diode rcvr, then 
one with a
single transistor audio amp plus speaker (needs 3 NODE block), morse code key 
and buzzer
etc etc
Tiny stuff can be intimidating…so the blocks fit his way of playing and we were 
off and running.
A regen rcvr on a board for 40M can be a jump step and its all fun.

Alan/K6ADG
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Re: [Elecraft] SOTA Acceptance

2017-10-17 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Check  out B crappie poles also. They have a great 20' Black Widow that I 
have and it works fine as either a vertical or support for a end fed.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Gary Hawkins <g...@hawkins-zhu.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 12:12 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SOTA Acceptance
   
For those that asked, my SOTA pole is a KWIK STIX Bream Pole by South 
Bend Sporting Model KS-2-20 6 section, reduced in length from 20'6" to 
18'3".  I'm not sure this is made any more, but they do still offer a 5 
section 17ft variant.

I use it to support a LNR EFT-10/20/40 EndFedz Antenna Trail-Friendly, 
or very occasionally a 40/20/15/10m homemade linked dipole.

73's Gary K6YOA


On 10/16/2017 5:57 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Message: 21
> Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2017 11:28:29 -0700
> From: Gary Hawkins<g...@hawkins-zhu.com>
> To:"elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] SOTA Acceptance
> Message-ID:<3220c6b5-b878-bfc8-b2de-6024be76d...@hawkins-zhu.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Hi Knut,
>
> On the contrary, I find most people are actually pretty interested in what 
> you're doing, and even in this age of global reach via phone/internet often 
> quite impressed by what communications can be achieved with a little radio 
> (in my case a KX3) and a wire antenna.  In fact, I've gone so far as flying a 
> SOTA flag off my crappie pole when I'm operating encouraging folks to come 
> over a ask what I'm doing.
>
> 73's Gary K6YOA

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Re: [Elecraft] Mobile from 117 VAC

2017-10-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Back in the late 1960's, I ran a SBE 33 and a HW12 compact kilowatt in a Ford 
Econcom PU, with a Texas bug catcher antenna and NE2s around the Top Hat.  
HP pulled me over and said I could not do that, causing drivers to swerve all 
over the place behind me.. FUN.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Dave Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com>
 To: Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net>; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 4:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mobile from 117 VAC
   
My friend had a jeep wrangler (2012 model IIRC ) that we used for VHF
roving with no issues. When we tried the same vehicle on HF, some bands
were ok and some caused havoc with the vehicle electronics. Transmit on 15m
at 100 watts triggered the wipers... 40m lit up every indicator on the
dash.
We switched to my 2015 F-150 with almost all the options, and have no such
problems. Same rig, same antenna. However, the truck creates some hash in
the HF receiver. So, there can be a lot of differences between vehicles.
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 4:48 PM Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net> wrote:

> In my previous 2003 Chevy Silverado, I had my TS-850 on a picnic table,
> running off the truck battery with jumper cables to the PowerPole
> distribution block and the engine idling.  As soon as I sent the first
> CW, both front seats moved totally forward and then refused to move
> back, steering wheel now blocking entrance.  Antenna was a dipole in the
> tree, hanging over the truck.  Disconnecting the battery cable for a
> minute or so rebooted the seat computer and it began working. A 40W 440
> MHz transmitter affected the cruise control in a 1991 Ford Ranger.
> Fortunately, it just disengaged it rather than setting the speed target
> at 120 mph.
>
> I got a 2017 Honda Ridgeline last Feb, I'm still working through
> understanding the "UI" for it, but given how much automation is
> involved, I will not put HF mobile in it.  Automobiles have changed
> since Dad let me put the PE-103 powered 10m transmitter in the trunk of
> the family Plymouth.  The seat computer in the Chevy [one of seven in
> the truck not counting whatever was in the radio] had 320 KB of ROM, 64
> KB RAM, and cycled at 100 ns, all just to move the seats back and
> forth.  The Apollo Guidance Computer had 32 KB of 16-bit hardwired core
> memory, 2 KB of read-write core, and cycled at 10 ms for most
> instructions, to go to the moon and back.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 10/9/2017 2:01 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> > So even if I conquer all the challenges of bonding and antenna-making
> and all the rest, there is still the risk that HF RF will affect some
> processor on the vehicle at the worst possible time and place?  How do we
> deal with that sort of problem?  Operate QRP only?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Going Mobile?

2017-10-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, the water cooled antenna amplifier was a Dalmo Motor inverter and Jennings 
2w300b tetrode amplifier I had one.  I still have the amp and manuals.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bob Nielsen <n...@n7xy.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 4:19 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Going Mobile?
   
In the late 1980s WB6FDR showed me his mobile station that had a Kenwood 
rig with a small control head which he had mounted on the dash of his 
Mercedes.  The rest of the rig plus a KW amp all fit in the trunk.

I recall that one of the old W6SAI handbooks showed a mobile rig with an 
amp that used water cooling.

Bob, N7XY


On 10/9/17 3:46 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
> Interesting photos of my Elmer's mobile though:
>
> http://www.k0bg.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1039
>
> On 10/9/2017 3:11 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> Yeah, just remember..everything written and printed and found 
>> on the web is not necessarily correct, nor accurate, and not of the 
>> current methodology of doing things.  I find that a lot of info 
>> borders on what someone told their brother in law, that has a 3rd 
>> cousin who was a neighbor of a ham some 20 years ago.  Of course in 
>> that caseonce it is said it must be fact!
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Bob K4TAX
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 630 meter band open for use

2017-09-15 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Interesting in reading the FCC notice, ALL modes are allowed!!!  So some 
enterprising company should make a transverter for us???  It is only 
allowing 5W EIRP, a signal generator and do +20 dBm, Hummm.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bill Frantz <fra...@pwpconsult.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 4:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 630 meter band open for use
   
Just submitted my data for both bands. I got the lat/long from 
QRZ.com and checked it against the "Maidenhead" app on my cell phone.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 9/15/17 at 11:47 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (James F. 
Boehner MD via Elecraft) wrote:

>Broken link.  Try this one:
>
><http://transition.fcc.gov/Daily_Releases/Daily_Business/2017/db0915/DA-17-8
>93A1.pdf>
>
>
>'73 de JIM N2ZZ
-
Bill Frantz        | The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter.                    | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

2017-09-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, Mine is a manual transfer at the mains, I have a night lite on the 
commercial side to tell me their power is back on.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Richard Fjeld <rpfj...@outlook.com>
 To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <pin...@erols.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 2:53 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
   
Charlie,
The bottom paragraph of your post caught my eye.

Transfer switch type  can depend upon a generator’s locale.  I have seen 
outdoor generators hard packed with snow internally.  I feel better about 
examining things before start-up. So for home use,  I favor manual control.

With a manual switch, it is nice not to have the whole AC panel transferred to 
generator so that it can be known when the commercial power is restored.

On the lighter side, I have a 350 watt peak AC Honda generator with a 12 volt 6 
amp DC output.  I won’t part with it. It is the size of a large lunch bucket. 
There isn’t room enough to tell how handy it has been.

Rich, n0ce

From: Charlie T, K3ICH<mailto:pin...@erols.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 1:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

(snipped some)

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on.  This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator

2017-09-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
OK, more complexity more MTBF issues.  If the system is for whole house backup 
and you need LONG term protection, think "reliability".  
The older systems are easy to maintain and service and there is nothing to go 
wrong on the AC generation that simple parts you can get will get it back 
working.  Hum. 
My OLDER Generac is 35 years old and running with exception to replace a simple 
battery alternator, fan belts and thermal switches that did not fix.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Mark Bayern <m...@mlb.net>
 To: Mel Farrer <farrerfo...@yahoo.com> 
Cc: Doug Hensley <w...@hotmail.com>; Elecraft List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 2:16 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator
   
I found that Generac has a series of egens they call the 'Synergy'
line. These are variable speed generators. The only variable speed
generators I'm familiar rectify the alternator's output then use PWM
to generate the 60hz 115VAC waveform.

The Honda small portable 1KW and 2KW gens use this system.

Mark


On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> I tried to get more information on the "syntergy" process.  I know of no 
> electrical design of the alternator that allow a non distorted change in 
> frequency of the output,  However a method of load sensing and a planetary 
> transmission with speed selection could do the job of letting the motor run 
> slower while the alternator is at constant speed.  The 5-12 minute load 
> sensing could be the process of the speed selection so that no load is 
> affected.  Hummm interesting.
> I have a 35 KW diesel Generac and never looked back.  It uses the old 
> governor method of adjusting engineer fuel/RPM to load. Less load less fuel 
> used.  OH well.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>      From: Doug Hensley <w...@hotmail.com>
>  To: Elecraft List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
>  Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 1:18 PM
>  Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator
>
> If you want to respond to this, please respond privately to me and NOT the 
> list.
>
>
> I am going through the process of choosing a whole house home generator and 
> what caught my ey in the process was a new generator by GENERAC called 
> "Syntergy" which uses a new three-vein generator and produces a relatively 
> clean sine wave.  So clean, GENERAC claims less than 1% harmonic distortion, 
> a level virtually undetectable to the user.
>
>
> Has anyone studied this unit and made any conclusions about it?  Their 
> standard unit produces a minimum of 10% harmonic distortion and they warn 
> some communications services might become unuseable.
>
>
> Again, respond to me privately:  <<  w5jv @ hotmail.com  >>.
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Doug W5JV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator

2017-09-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I tried to get more information on the "syntergy" process.  I know of no 
electrical design of the alternator that allow a non distorted change in 
frequency of the output,  However a method of load sensing and a planetary 
transmission with speed selection could do the job of letting the motor run 
slower while the alternator is at constant speed.  The 5-12 minute load sensing 
could be the process of the speed selection so that no load is affected.  Hummm 
interesting.
I have a 35 KW diesel Generac and never looked back.  It uses the old governor 
method of adjusting engineer fuel/RPM to load. Less load less fuel used.  OH 
well.  
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Doug Hensley <w...@hotmail.com>
 To: Elecraft List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 1:18 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator
   
If you want to respond to this, please respond privately to me and NOT the list.


I am going through the process of choosing a whole house home generator and 
what caught my ey in the process was a new generator by GENERAC called 
"Syntergy" which uses a new three-vein generator and produces a relatively 
clean sine wave.  So clean, GENERAC claims less than 1% harmonic distortion, a 
level virtually undetectable to the user.


Has anyone studied this unit and made any conclusions about it?  Their standard 
unit produces a minimum of 10% harmonic distortion and they warn some 
communications services might become unuseable.


Again, respond to me privately:  <<  w5jv @ hotmail.com  >>.


Thank you,


Doug W5JV







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Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on

2017-09-05 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I built up this NEMA box and put the analog current and voltage meters in it.  
That gave me a good platform to build the peak sensing circuit and alarm.  
Since I also have solar bank on the ham equipment, I used the battery to sound 
the alarm when either the voltage goes high or low like in a brown out.  Of 
course that only does good when I am home.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <pin...@erols.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 11:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on
   
I've bought some little Chicom plug-in Line Voltage monitors that are rated
to run from 80 to 300 VAC for about $5 each through eBay, free shipping/no
tax.
They are completely self-contained with the two prong standard US blade plug
built-in.
The background illumination is blue LED and they're about 1/3 the size of a
pack of Lucky's.
The only problem I've found with them is that after about 5 years of 24/7
use, the background illumination isn't as bright as a new one, but still
perfectly readable.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 2:12 PM
To: Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on

So what are people using to monitor their 120/240 mains? Just curious but
wondering if this is something I should be doing.

Mike / W8DN

On 9/4/2017 1:32 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> Funny you posted this.
> I monitor BOTH sides of the 110/220 VAC service and have alarms set to
trigger either line >125 or >250 VAC. Being in the country THINGS happen.
> Always expect the unusual.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>        From: David Robertson <kd1na...@gmail.com>
>  To: Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
>  Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 9:39 AM
>  Subject: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on
>    
> Everyone,
>
>  Over time we can grow complacent on many service items such as 
> electrical power, water and other services over time. Well that can be 
> concerning as many hidden changes can result in damage to your home and
equipment.
>
> Late late night I came in to my den and was closing down my ham 
> station when I notice my fault light on my KPA500 linear was on. I 
> powered it down and retired for the evening. This morning I powered up 
> the linear (KPA500) and at once I got a fault light and had a high 
> voltage alert. I powered down the linear and checked my input line 
> voltage. It was 137 volts RMS! To be sure it wasn't my imagination I 
> rechecked the voltage with a different meter with the same result. In 
> checking the 220 volt outlet I measured 274 volts! My linear is set up 
> for 220 volts operation and it was getting over
> 90 volts HV.
>
> I alerted the neighbors and cut the main breaker to the house. I then 
> called the power company's service number and reported the problem. A 
> short time later they called me back and reported that a regulator in 
> the local sub station had "Stuck" and was reset. In rechecking my line 
> voltage it was
> 118 volts on the low side and 236 volts on the high side.
>
> In the 12 years we have been at this qth we found that our town's 
> locally run power company has been very reliable but this experience 
> showed me that it is not a bad idea to check your line voltage every once
in a while.
> 73
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on

2017-09-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Funny you posted this.
I monitor BOTH sides of the 110/220 VAC service and have alarms set to trigger 
either line >125 or >250 VAC. Being in the country THINGS happen.
Always expect the unusual.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: David Robertson <kd1na...@gmail.com>
 To: Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 9:39 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on
   
Everyone,

 Over time we can grow complacent on many service items such as electrical
power, water and other services over time. Well that can be concerning as
many hidden changes can result in damage to your home and equipment.

Late late night I came in to my den and was closing down my ham station
when I notice my fault light on my KPA500 linear was on. I powered it down
and retired for the evening. This morning I powered up the linear (KPA500)
and at once I got a fault light and had a high voltage alert. I powered
down the linear and checked my input line voltage. It was 137 volts RMS! To
be sure it wasn't my imagination I rechecked the voltage with a different
meter with the same result. In checking the 220 volt outlet I measured 274
volts! My linear is set up for 220 volts operation and it was getting over
90 volts HV.

I alerted the neighbors and cut the main breaker to the house. I then
called the power company's service number and reported the problem. A short
time later they called me back and reported that a regulator in the local
sub station had "Stuck" and was reset. In rechecking my line voltage it was
118 volts on the low side and 236 volts on the high side.

In the 12 years we have been at this qth we found that our town's locally
run power company has been very reliable but this experience showed me that
it is not a bad idea to check your line voltage every once in a while.
73

-- 
Dave Robertson KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable Power for digital and Phone operation

2017-09-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
While I don't this much anymore, I would consider the generator for situations 
where solar is not an option.
Honda 2000i ~$1100

Jinko Solar 280W Eagle - Monocrystalline PERC Solar Module - 60 Cell - Silver 
Frame

  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
Jinko Solar 280W Eagle - Monocrystalline PERC Solar Module - 60 Cell - Silv...
 High-Efficient Mono Crystalline Module Intergrated with Passivated Emmiter 
Rear Contact (PERC) technology, 4-bus...  |   |

  |

  |

 $158.67  2X or 560 watts for <$350
Solar is more pubic friendly albeit more ground space.Will handle your power 
load during the day and quite a while on the battery alone.

Mel, K6KBE

  From: Michael Chowning <mike.chown...@mgccc.org>
 To: Elecraft Reflector <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Friday, September 1, 2017 10:54 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Portable Power for digital and Phone operation
   
Being there is no better place to get advice than this reflector, I am seeking 
your recommendation.  I have an Elecraft K3, P3, KAT500 & KPA500.

I want to operate somewhat portable with the K3, P3, monitor and laptop, 
buddipole on SSB and digital modes on Field day, and demonstrations on outings 
to community events (like festivals, etc).  My options, I’m considering are:

1) Honda 2000i gasoline generator
2) Yamaha EF2000iSV2 (with propane option)
+++

1) Deep Cell 12v 100amp battery (brand, model, control charger?)
2) Lipo battery (brand, model, control charger?)
2) appropriate solar power panels and controller charge for either of the above 
battery (brand, model, adapters?)


My questions:
 1) Is it best to go with the generator option; and if so, which of the two 
choices above?  Any outstanding reason for this option, and choice of the two?
 2) Is it best to go with the Battery, and solar option; why? Is there reason 
to choose the Lipo over the Deep Cell batteries? I am concerned over the 
choices about battery voltages and amp’s needed to operate as stated above.

It’s noisy but the generator option seems on the surface much simpler for 
setup.  However, from the perspective of demonstration of Amateur Radio today, 
the solar and battery option appears to be more demonstrative of the state of 
Amateur Radio today.  Being 77 yrs old, I don’t want to get over my head in 
technology (though I love such).
Thanks for your thoughtful recommendations.
      Mike, N8TTR
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

2017-08-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I prefer to use the end fed wire in an inverted "L" configuration with the 
vertical leg running down a FG pole to the radio.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Barthold Lichtenbelt via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 To: 'Walter Underwood' <wun...@wunderwood.org>; 'Reflector Elecraft' 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 7:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?
   
Walter,

This was a super informative writeup, thank you! 

I have one question for you. If you throw a 26-29 foot wire in a tree, but it 
is impractical to sit right at the end of the wire (too many branches in the 
way, or whatever) to operate, how would you extend it? For example, operate 
from a table 20 feet away.

Thanks!
Barthold
AD0RM

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter Underwood
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 10:10 AM
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

In July, five SOTA operators put up seven different antennas on a summit and 
compared their performance with WSPR. Six of the antennas were mostly within 3 
dB of each other. The EARCHI antenna (end-fed with transformer) was  between 6 
and 15 dB worse than the others. So in one experiment, the 9:1 transformer did 
not help.

http://reflector.sota.org.uk/t/seven-sota-antennas-compared-using-wspr-on-a-summit/15635
 
<http://reflector.sota.org.uk/t/seven-sota-antennas-compared-using-wspr-on-a-summit/15635>

When the antenna is connected directly to the KX3, there is no transmission 
line, so there is no need to match the antenna to the transmission line. It is 
putting the ATU at the feed point of the antenna.

The 26-29 foot length is chosen to avoid very high or very low impedances in 
the ham bands down to 40 m Especially, it is not a 1/2 wave on any band. That 
makes it easier to match. If you want to work 80 m, use a 53 foot wire.

The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a lot better 
than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t especially important 
because it is capacitively coupled to the ground. Ground resistance swamps any 
resonance.

I first heard about this antenna on this list. It was recommended by Wayne, 
N6KR. It is documented on page 9 of the instructions for the KXAT1 antenna 
tuner, “...for backpacking use on 40/30/20 meters, a wire length of 24-28 feet 
will generally provide good results. […] Ground system: Use a at least one 
ground radial, cut to at least 1/8th wavelength on the lowest band used (16' on 
40 meters). When possible, use two or more radials, with one cut to 1/4 
wavelength on each band."

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740054%20KXAT1%20man%20rev%20B.pdf 
<http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740054%20KXAT1%20man%20rev%20B.pdf>

There is similar advice on page 10 of the KX2 manual.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740282%20KX2%20owner%27s%20man.pdf 
<http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740282%20KX2%20owner's%20man.pdf>

Finally, stop trying to think about “balanced” and “unbalanced” because those 
words are used in bizarre, inconsistent ways. Voltage, whether DC or RF, is 
always between two terminals. With a center-fed dipole, the two terminals are 
the elements. With this setup, the two terminals are the wire in the air and 
the wire on the ground.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T <r...@wc3t.us> wrote:
> 
> Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
> 
> I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers. 
> 
> I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using a 
> BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.  
> 
> I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about 
> these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and the 
> wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments with 
> end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great 
> successes. 
> 
> I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my 
> current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't 
> recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my 
> WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.    Why does 
> this work?  :)
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org 
> <mailto:wun...@wunderwood.org>> wrote:
> You can get a quick look at band conditions at 
> http://bandconditions.com <http://bandconditions.com/> 
> <http://bandconditions.com/ <http://bandconditions.com/>>
> 
> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a 

Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey

2017-08-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Rick, 
While it is not easy, you should put in the agenda checking it day and night.  
I found very different noise profiles that way
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Rick Miller - N1RM <n...@arrl.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 3:54 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Using K3 for relative noise survey
   
Thanks for all the info!

It turns out I have an RSP2 and now have it running with HDSDR in "slow"
waterfall mode.  I'm now looking for a way to control the front end options
of the RSP2 - nothing seems to be built into HDSDR to do that, but that's a
topic for another mail list.  BTW - I conveniently have an EXCELLENT Clifton
Labs 1800 KHz AMBC high pass filter that sure tames the input dynamic range
when measuring 160M.

I will also try the suggestions for different ways to record signal strength
on the K3.

Thanks again,
Rick
N1RM



--
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Wire size for the ground on the KX2

2017-06-15 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The speaker wire I use is the insulated flat stuff ~16 AWG equivalent.  Rolls 
up into a nice small ball.  I put a alligator clip on one end and a ring 
terminal for the KX3.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Michael Walker <va...@portcredit.net>
 To: donw...@embarqmail.com 
Cc: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2017 2:58 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wire size for the ground on the KX2
   
If this is for an RF ground, you'll need bigger than 22G for it to be
effective.

Braid would be preferred.

Mike va3mw


On Thu, Jun 15, 2017 at 5:25 PM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I would use #22 teflon insulated wire.  Teflon because it is 'slippery'
> and that can help with wire tangles.  Thinner wire may be lighter weight if
> you are weighing fractions of ounces, but it is quite durable. Anything
> thinner becomes more fragile.  IMHO that is a reasonable compromise.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/15/2017 4:27 PM, Mike Morrell wrote:
>
>> Given the small size of the mini banana plug for KX2 ground connection ,
>> what size wire are folks using ; assuming ease of transport , etc.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] BL2 -- Antenna Balun Usage

2017-05-23 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
BTW, don't look at the BL2 to help with any CMI, it doesn't do a very good job.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 6:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BL2 -- Antenna Balun Usage
   
You missed my point...  I'm gonna let it go, because it's just not that
important to argue the point here.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 5/23/2017 11:45 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
> Terminology does count, especially in technical areas, like radio.
>
> If you ask to borrow my truck, and I say "yes" and hand you my
> hand-truck (two-wheeled dolly) it's probably not what you were thinking.
>
> On 5/22/2017 10:19 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> How about not worrying what to call it, period?

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Re: [Elecraft] Setting Up Travel Kit

2017-05-08 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Hi Kev,
Only thing to add that I can think of is a 27+ watt solar panel.  More hand 
tools are nice.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Kevin - K4VD <ke...@k4vd.net>
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 5:37 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Setting Up Travel Kit
   
Hi there...

I'm hoping this year I'll see a lot of day/half-day trips, a few overnight
or weekend trips and maybe a week getaway - all with my KX3 of course.

I'm working on progressive grab and go bags depending on the current plan.
So far, for the day/half-day trips I've come up with the following:

Pack #1 (40/20 meters, CW, some digital, some voice, limited DC power)

Bag, AmazonBasics Large DSLR Gadget Bag, Orange Interior

KX3 Radio

Paddles

KX3 allen wrench

KXPD3 allen wrench

Antenna, EF-40/20

Coax, 3’ BNCm RA to PL259

Minilog

Notepad

License

Pen

Pencil

Mason line

Fishing weight

Adapter pack (this-to-that stuff)

Earphones

8x NiMH internal

16x NiMH external

8-cell holder with 5.5x2.1 barrel


I think this is the minimum for a day at the park. It all fits into an easy
to carry bag.

My next step is to come up with a kit that adds to the above and extends
things out for a weekend. I have a 20Ah LiFePO4 (on the way) and will add
an end-fed to cover up to 80 meters along with the Heil headset. This would
be a Field Day kit for instance. More features trading off some
compactness. I'll work on an actual inventory.

The final step - the week getaway - might include a different antenna,
PX-3, KXPA100 if AC available and maybe a computer for better digital
capabilities (wsjt-x, fldigi, dxkeeper).

These are my thoughts so far. They'll probably change with some experience
and advice (hint).

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] USPS, UPS, FedEx and related woes

2017-04-27 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Two things I will add also, 

After having the wild ones run over my mail box at the bottom of the hill, we 
went to a satellite mail box a short distance away, problem solved, well sort 
of.  Along comes SUREpost or equivalent.  The seller says it will go ground, so 
I give them the street address, then they ship it, YEP drop off at the PO who 
can't deliver it. 

So we started to put both the street address and the PO Box number on the info, 
problem solved, well sort of, YEP you guessed it the leave off the PO Box info, 
 Can't win. 

 Final tally, about 75% of the deliveries get it right, 25% get lost, delayed 
or returned to shipper.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: "Dauer, Edward" <eda...@law.du.edu>
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 8:38 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] USPS, UPS, FedEx and related woes
   
One anecdote before this O.T. thread is terminated . . .

My “shack” is in a second home in the Colorado mountains, where none of these 
services work.  Street addresses exist but they are useless; a driver 
unfamiliar with the local area would have to use either county plat maps or GPS 
coordinates, which of course no shipper would provide.  The dirt road leading 
to the house isn’t wide enough for a large truck, and climbing up our hill 
requires a good four-wheeler during much of the year.  When we first built the 
place the US Post Office would not deliver mail to addresses in our area, so 
for a while I rented one of the few boxes available at the local Post Office. 
After a year or two they unilaterally cancelled the rental, telling me that I 
didn’t get enough mail to justify having a box there.  I solved the problem by 
having everything sent to my Denver address, but I found it ironic.  In Denver 
I am flooded with junk mail every day, often more than can be smushed into the 
outside box on our house.  In the country (an unincorporated area called 
Florissant) I don’t get enough mail to deserve a box at the P.O.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request

2017-04-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, back in the 70's, Yes, I am long in the tooth.  One of my friends up north 
was just getting on the air EME and he had a SUBSTANTIAL station and antenna 
and started calling, " Hello, hello"  and someone answered! he kept it up and 
then started to listen to the returned signal then he said, " I think I am 
talking to myself".   He recorded it and we all laughed at one on the early 
West Coast VHF conferences.  Those were the days my friends.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Edward R Cole <kl...@acsalaska.net>
 To: Mel Farrer <farrerfo...@yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 5:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request
   
Mel,

Guess you are unaware, but I am on 6m-eme, 2m-eme, and 23cm-eme. The RTLT is 
approx 2.5 seconds.  But voice is rarely used and emestations rarely operate in 
Duplex.  Of course one can receive yourown reflected signal for a short 
duration; that is called receiving yourecho.

73, Ed - KL7UW

At 03:13 PM 4/9/2017, Mel Farrer wrote:

You think that delay issomething try EME.  At least there you have a decent 
delay to getuse to.  

Mel, K6KBE



From: Edward R Cole <kl...@acsalaska.net>
To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request

Just supplemental comments to what Joe has written:

Having monitor of speech is certainly important for speaking properly
(or singing).  Note that speech able people who lose their hearing
slowly also loose the ability to talk properly.  If you are hard of
hearing you might talk too loud; happens to me on occasion; its just
your neural feedback loop doing "human ALC", as itwere.

For those who operate voice modes on satellites the time delay 
produced on monitoring your transmission with a full duplex station 
can get madding.  The delay is caused mainly by RTLT (round trip
light time) which is the time delay for the signal to travel round 
trip from the satellite.  For HEO (high Earth orbiting) satellites
the range gets to a point to experience significant delay in your 
voice monitored in the downlink Rx.  On AO-10/13/40 it could be
challenging to talk properly hearing your own voice delayed.  Iwould 
sound like: hello-ello, how-ow, are-re, you-ou.  Say that at anormal 
speaking rate and you will get the idea what it sounded like.

Full duplex operation is quite useful in satellite operating:
1.  Avoid talking on top of another station
2.  Making frequency adjustment for Doppler
3.  Verifying you have an adequate uplink into the system to beheard.

Many learned to compensate (mentally disregarding their own voice - 
which is difficult), or turning down the Monitored audio level when 
transmitting.

Ed - KL7UW

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request
Message-ID:<79756624-997c-53c3-e4dc-4da4d2f2f...@subich.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

On 4/8/2017 5:07 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:
> At any rate, at a 'normal' (for me) monitor level, it's not
> objectionable (or even really noticable) in my external speaker.The
> only way I could induce audio feedback was to hold the mic rightin
> front of the external speaker with MON set at or nearmaximum.

There we agree ... where the monitor level is set to be usable inthe
headphones, it does not cause a feedback issue even if the speakers
are turned on.  However, if one is using low sensitivityheadphones
with the speakers turned up high *and* high mic gain, one can cause
feedback or echo.  Rather than insisting on a change in the waythe
K3/K3S operates, one would be better served to repair the issues in
his own configuration!

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com

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 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request

2017-04-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
You think that delay is something try EME.  At least there you have a decent 
delay to get use to.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Edward R Cole <kl...@acsalaska.net>
 To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 4:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request
   
Just supplemental comments to what Joe has written:

Having monitor of speech is certainly important for speaking properly 
(or singing).  Note that speech able people who lose their hearing 
slowly also loose the ability to talk properly.  If you are hard of 
hearing you might talk too loud; happens to me on occasion; its just 
your neural feedback loop doing "human ALC", as it were.

For those who operate voice modes on satellites the time delay 
produced on monitoring your transmission with a full duplex station 
can get madding.  The delay is caused mainly by RTLT (round trip 
light time) which is the time delay for the signal to travel round 
trip from the satellite.  For HEO (high Earth orbiting) satellites 
the range gets to a point to experience significant delay in your 
voice monitored in the downlink Rx.  On AO-10/13/40 it could be 
challenging to talk properly hearing your own voice delayed.  I would 
sound like: hello-ello, how-ow, are-re, you-ou.  Say that at a normal 
speaking rate and you will get the idea what it sounded like.

Full duplex operation is quite useful in satellite operating:
1.  Avoid talking on top of another station
2.  Making frequency adjustment for Doppler
3.  Verifying you have an adequate uplink into the system to be heard.

Many learned to compensate (mentally disregarding their own voice - 
which is difficult), or turning down the Monitored audio level when 
transmitting.

Ed - KL7UW

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request
Message-ID: <79756624-997c-53c3-e4dc-4da4d2f2f...@subich.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

On 4/8/2017 5:07 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:
 > At any rate, at a 'normal' (for me) monitor level, it's not
 > objectionable (or even really noticable) in my external speaker. The
 > only way I could induce audio feedback was to hold the mic right in
 > front of the external speaker with MON set at or near maximum.

There we agree ... where the monitor level is set to be usable in the
headphones, it does not cause a feedback issue even if the speakers
are turned on.  However, if one is using low sensitivity headphones
with the speakers turned up high *and* high mic gain, one can cause
feedback or echo.  Rather than insisting on a change in the way the
K3/K3S operates, one would be better served to repair the issues in
his own configuration!

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 slightly off frequency

2017-04-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Good question Don,  Check out on this.  If the sending station is tuned in to a 
zero beat that is I match my K3 frequency to his, then turn on the RIT to get a 
pitch I like. Doesn't that make my Tx signal the same as his?
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: Mel Farrer <farrerfo...@yahoo.com>; "r...@aol.com" <r...@aol.com>; 
"elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 3:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 slightly off frequency
   
Mel and all,

If you are talking about CW, then using RIT is a sure way to get the 
actual received frequency different than the transmitted frequency.  In 
fact, that is one easy way to define RIT.
During RX, the K3 will show the actual frequency (at your chosen 
sidetone pitch) that you are listening to.
But if you have RIT or XIT turned on, the transmit frequency will be 
different than the receive frequency.

Hopefully your perception of "zerobeat" means that you have tuned the 
signal until the tone is equal to your sidetone pitch (SPOT) and not an 
attempt to tune to zero frequency (which is incorrect and will produce 
'strange' frequency readings).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/9/2017 6:14 PM, Mel Farrer wrote:
> I dial in the frequency, zerobeat, I want and use the pitch or RIT to 
> get the "sound" I want.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
> 
> *From:* Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
> *To:* r...@aol.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 9, 2017 3:06 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] K3 slightly off frequency
>
> Dick,
>
> Another thing to check (and I assume CW operation) - make sure you are
> listening at the same pitch as you have set in the sidetone pitch.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/9/2017 5:42 PM, Dick via Elecraft wrote:
> > I have a K3 kit that's been back to the factory for repair and 
> alignment,
> > and a K3S that was factory made and aligned. Regardless which  one I'm
> > using, most of the time when I get "spotted" by RBN, my  frequency 
> is listed as
> > being 100hz higher than listed on the  K3's front panel digital readout.
> > This has often made me wonder if  both of my K3's are slightly off 
> frequency.
> > Could it be that  many/most K3's are "slightly off frequency"?
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>



   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 slightly off frequency

2017-04-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I dial in the frequency, zerobeat, I want and use the pitch or RIT to get the 
"sound" I want.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: r...@aol.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2017 3:06 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 slightly off frequency
   
Dick,

Another thing to check (and I assume CW operation) - make sure you are 
listening at the same pitch as you have set in the sidetone pitch.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/9/2017 5:42 PM, Dick via Elecraft wrote:
> I have a K3 kit that's been back to the factory for repair and alignment,
> and a K3S that was factory made and aligned.  Regardless which  one I'm
> using, most of the time when I get "spotted" by RBN, my  frequency is listed 
> as
> being 100hz higher than listed on the  K3's front panel digital readout.
> This has often made me wonder if  both of my K3's are slightly off frequency.
> Could it be that  many/most K3's are "slightly off frequency"?
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

2017-03-30 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Frankly going to the higher power is really a engineering what if and looking 
at the new higher power devices rather than doubling up the 500.  IMHO
Mel, K6KBE


  From: "j...@kk9a.com" <j...@kk9a.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 12:13 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?
   
There are various circumstances and 1.76dB may or may not be important.
Much depends on your interests and goals.

I am curious how you combined two KPA500's. The commercial combiners that
I have seen are extremely expensive and are not set up for the KPA500
automatic band switching. Perhaps an Elecraft KPA combiner would would be
a good option?

John KK9A


from: Richard Thorne rthorne at rthorne.net
Thu Mar 30 12:31:48 EDT 2017

I have a pair of KPA-500's for an SO2R setup.  Seamless.

I've been running the numbers on the advantage of going to 1000 or 1500
watts.

500 watts to 1000 watts - 3.01 db gain
500 watts to 1500 watts - 4.77 db gain

Will the increase from 1000 to 1500 watts or a 1.76 db increase in
gain,  make a difference? I'm sure it would in some circumstances, but
how often?

I'm just starting on my quest to increase my dxcc totals on 80 and 160,
so maybe that 1.76 db would be the difference between a having a qso or
not having a qso.

What are the thoughts of the serious low band guys?

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC

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Re: [Elecraft] New Amplifier Capabilities

2017-03-30 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Besides, I would really like to replace my DX-2SP.  I can't lift it!!
Mel, K6KBE


  From: charlie carroll <k...@k1xx.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:33 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] New Amplifier Capabilities
   
Eric/Wayne:

Quite a few folks have contributed many ideas about the characteristics 
of a new 1500 watt solid state amp.  With all this info, I am now 
curious as to what might make the cut and when.  I won't even go near 
the $$ question. :-)

73 charlie, k1xx/vp2mmf
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz

2017-03-23 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Doug,
Didn't the Navy use those frequencies to communicate with the submarines?  I 
remember something about 30 KHz and an Atlantic Island and something Washington 
with a setup???
Long in the tooth ham!
Mel K6KBE

  From: Doug Smith <d...@w7kf.com>
 To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 3:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz
   
Way back in ancient times I worked at a research lab where we had a LOT of 
receivers tuned to all the signals we could find below 60 kHz.  I think the 
lowest was 13.x.  There was an 18.x and 24.x etc. etc.  We were only interested 
in signal strengths and plotted each signal on strip chart recorders, 24x7.  It 
was very interesting working at those frequencies.  (This was all part of a 
solar observatory project.)

So, I guess *that* would qualify as a reason to listen to this stuff..

73,
Doug, W7KF
http://www.w7kf.com <http://www.w7kf.com/>



> On Mar 23, 2017, at 4:03 PM, Mike Morrow <k...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
>  I'm not sure what the point would be...everything down there is very deeply 
>encrypted.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier

2017-03-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Or , you can turn the amp on with a keying line and sweep the input with a 
analyzer to see where it is matched.  CB amps are notorious for having very 
narrow input match networks, like Jim said, but the transformers are most 
likely broad band.  Worth tinkering with if you want to see whats going on..
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 1:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier
   
On Thu,3/9/2017 1:11 PM, Richard Lawn wrote:
> Or am I missing something?

I'm guessing that that amp is a POS. You can filter harmonics, but you 
can't filter IMD. I'd throw it in the trash. The SWR issue is likely 
because the input circuit is tuned for 11M and doesn't pass whatever 
frequency you're trying to drive it with.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

2017-02-25 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, you did good.  One thing I learned when a friend had a project go south 
and could not find the reason. He brought it to me and it was an enameled wire 
that he had not striped the enamel off.  The connection looked good but it did 
not burn through the enamel.  Again DETAIL and double checks.  Now where did I 
put my keys,,,
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'Cameron Francey' <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.
   
Glad it turned out well in the end, Cameron. All "solder jockeys" know how a
joint sometimes magically "desolders" itself. 

You were lucky after all. Often the unsoldered joint is making contact with
the thru-plated hole and everything works - until a little oxide builds up
and the resistance climbs until the circuit is open - often months or even
years later. Of course by then a component failure is the prime suspect and
many hours can be lost looking everywhere but the solder joints. 

Enjoy your new K2. I built mine in 2000 and it is still a FB rig.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Cameron Francey
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to add but
the basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for a week or so to
make sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and identify
all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it made life much
easier to select the correct values efficiently during the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the remainder
of the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to the transmitter
alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2 watts out as expected it
was over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I thought to myself?  I had a quick
look over everything, made 100% sure all the components were installed
correctly etc, but couldn't find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the
transformer winding's and made sure they were all installed correctly.
Nothing looked out of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly every
option available I knew it had to be something I had done wrong.  So I kept
my logic head on and decided after my initial disappointment and re-checking
my work that a break away from the bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my issue
was somehow with the components that either set or control the power level,
and my reason for thinking that was because the issue was present on every
band and the power control pot made no difference to the output power, and
RX wise it was performing really well so that eliminated a lot of the
sections.  Thinking about ALC or the power control circuit on the control
board I decided that was where to start and work outwards from there.  I
knew the transmit section of the main RF board was in good shape since it
was capable of producing more than 20 watts into a dummy load!


So, I read the circuit diagram, pulled out the control board and started to
trace the ALC circuit though the board.. That's when I found my problem, I
couldn't believe how stupid I had been and missed soldering pin 2 of RP 3 on
the Control Board, which is the ALC feedback loop.  After soldering that and
re-testing all was well, phew!!!


Where the lesson was learned was even though I'm close to obsessive
compulsive when identifying and selecting each component and double checking
twice before soldering anything, then checking with a magnifying glass that
the joints look good I still somehow managed to let that un-soldered pin go
unnoticed!


I don't think I have caused any adverse effects to the PA section driving it
so hard.  The short periods of transmitting at about 23 watts never caused
them to heat up.  Its interesting that the PA produced over 20 watts, so the
15 watts max output under normal conditions seems quite a conservative level
for those 2SC1969's.


Just thought I'd share my stupid mistake with the readers here and that even
being really careful things can still slip through the net!



Best Regards,

Cameron, AF7DK/GM7LQR





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Re: [Elecraft] Boost power supplies for RF amps

2017-02-20 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I have long wondered why some manufacture did not think of it.  That is a amp 
with built in 12 VDC boost PS.  With all of the new switching tech, it should 
be a KISS solution and make the amp SOUND GREAT all of the time
Just my opinion hi.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Bill Frantz <fra...@pwpconsult.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 2:08 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Boost power supplies for RF amps
   
The short answer is they can. It is only a matter of engineering 
time, cost, resulting price, number of customers and competing 
projects. In other words, the usual business considerations.

Lets work the idea through for several of the Elecraft RF amplifiers:

The 10-15W K3(s) amp: This amp can have significant IMD at low 
voltages as we have discovered with our QRP, all Elecraft, field 
day operation. The KX3 seems to do better, so reengineering the 
amp may be a better solution. For field day, we try to have 
fresh batteries available.

The 100W K3(s) internal amp: This amp also has low voltage IMD 
as we found during our 100W California QSO party expeditions. 
But, consider the K3(s)'s construction. The front of the radio 
is the digital portion, including the DSPs and the front panel 
computer. All of this digital noise is isolated from the analog 
circuits in the back of the radio. If Elecraft were to include a 
boost power supply with the internal amp, that high-current 
switcher would be in the analog section, and probably impossible 
to quiet. Solution: Get an external boost power supply.

The KXPA100 external amp: This form factor would be an ideal 
place to include a boost power supply. The use profile includes 
portable battery operation and designing isolation for the power 
supply into the package seems straight forward.

The KPA500 external amp: The amp setup procedure sets the 
voltage to to 65v to 85v and the specifications call for about 
1000 VA of power or about 13A at 75v. That would be nearly 75A 
at 13.5 volts assuming 100% efficiency, so it would be a good 
idea to put the boost power supply next to the battery and run 
75v to the amp. It would make a nice high power mobil rig.

73 Bill AE6JV

In thread "Re: [Elecraft] Chinese ebay amps for KX3", on 2/20/17 
at 5:47 AM, pin...@erols.com (Charlie T, K3ICH) wrote:

>So now, tell me why a mid-sized radio can't have a built in 12 V to say, 50
>V converter to drive some HV FETs for cleaner output specs like the Yuge
>radios.
---
Bill Frantz        |The nice thing about standards| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      |is there are so many to choose| 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |from.  - Andrew Tanenbaum    | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] ECOM scare -- FW: Soldering lesson

2017-02-18 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
AT had a school in Oakland training people how to maintain office 48 VDC 
battery banks.  They had a display of the top of one of the BIG office 
batteries with a 12" spanner some idiot used to tighten the terminals.  The 
middle of the spanner was gone.  Point well made.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 2:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ECOM scare -- FW: Soldering lesson
   
I worked with a guy missing his ring finger after accidentally getting his
wedding band across the high-current supply bus and the airframe in an
aircraft console. The ring immediately welded to the current source so he
could not move his hand. He said that he passed out from the pain as the
metal melted into his flesh.

Others in the shop spoke of the guy who lost a hand to a metal watch band
the same way. 

I never work around a car battery or other low-voltage, high current supply
wearing jewelry. If you wear a wedding ring that you cannot or do not want
to take off, do what hospitals do and wrap a band-aid around your finger
covering it. 

73, Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Frantz
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 9:20 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ECOM scare -- FW: Soldering lesson

Amen! I shorted my wedding ring and a wrench across a car battery once. It
burned out a small part of the ring, and left a blister that lasted a week.
I was lucky. I also got the ring off before the swelling made it impossible.
I was doubly lucky.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 2/17/17 at 5:16 PM, kev...@coho.net wrote:

>High amperage DC is very dangerous.  You would need to have a finger or 
>hand amputated if your jewelry shorts it out.
---
Bill Frantz        | Security is like Government  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | services. The market doesn't | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | want to pay for them.        | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker

2017-02-17 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Try Pipe organ design.  Gives  you the input to cut the tube to any audio 
frequency.
Mel, K6KBE 

  From: P.J.Hicks <hickspj...@comcast.net>
 To: ELECRAFT <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:56 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker
   
Has anyone built the resonator with a straight length of tube? Perhaps 
terminated with a 45 deg. cut? 
Might be an interesting experiment. 

The 45 deg long radius street elbow in 2" is an order only item in my area so 
thought I'd substitute a straight length. 

PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker

2017-02-17 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Try this site.
Homemade Pipe Organ

  
|  
|   |  
Homemade Pipe Organ
 The story of how I designed and built an all wood pipe organ for my house.  |  
|

  |

 

Mel, K6KBE

  From: P.J.Hicks <hickspj...@comcast.net>
 To: ELECRAFT <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:56 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker
   
Has anyone built the resonator with a straight length of tube? Perhaps 
terminated with a 45 deg. cut? 
Might be an interesting experiment. 

The 45 deg long radius street elbow in 2" is an order only item in my area so 
thought I'd substitute a straight length. 

PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

2017-02-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Do yourself a favor sometime and measure the 2:1 SWR bandwidth and use the 
tutorial to calculate how much loss you really have.  Just for grins.  It 
gives you a bench mark.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Doug Person <d...@k0dxv.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, February 9, 2017 2:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW
   
I am feeding my end-feds with over 100 feet of coax and they work just fine.

Doug - K0DXV


On 2/9/2017 1:21 PM, K9MA wrote:
> Well said, Bill!
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
> On 2/9/2017 10:39, Bill Leonard N0CU wrote:
>> The reason your antenna was a lot less finicky with a bit of coax is 
>> that the
>> EFHW antenna requires a return path for the RF field. Theoretically, 
>> without
>> a return path, the antenna won't radiate at all. The recommended 
>> setup for
>> this antenna is for a .05 wavelength counterpoised to be used. EZNEC 
>> models
>> indicate that there is little benefit to going much longer than .05
>> wavelengths, and a quarter wavelength is actually less effective than 
>> the
>> shorter lengths.  If no counterpoise is used, then coax shield 
>> becomes the
>> counterpoise by default.
>>
>> Bill  N0CU
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW clarification

2017-02-08 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I would suggest, a good coax choke also.  Cheap easy and good insurance.  The 
real problem of the 9:1 un un is that IF the transformer is not balanced, there 
will be CMC to deal with.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Dan Presley <n7...@arrl.net>
 To: K2 <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 4:14 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] EFHW clarification
   
Thanks for the replies so far. Just to clarify-I plan to use the built in auto 
tuners in my KX2 and 3, so hopefully they can handle the job. I already have a 
good 9:1 transformer which should work. The primary question is the advantage 
to the EFHW as opposed to a true random length (not a halfwave at desired freq) 
with a counterpoise. It sounds like the high current point is a quarter wave 
from the feedpoint which could be an advantage from the random length. I’ve 
also seen a variety of ideas on the proper length of coax to use with an EFHW, 
which as I understand will act as a counterpoise. I now have one of the nice 
lightweight SOTA poles which would be good with whatever wire I go with. 
Waiting for some decent weather in the Pacific NW  :))


Dan Presley  N7CQR
n7...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Solar power?

2017-02-06 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, Igor that is when you bring out the hampster, a tread mill and a 6  pack 
of brew.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Igor Sokolov <ua9...@gmail.com>
 To: Mel Farrer <farrerfo...@yahoo.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Monday, February 6, 2017 1:09 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar power?
   
 My experience shows that bigger solar panel is safer. My 60W panel in real 
life gives less then 1 A on a cloudy day and about 4 A on a bright sunny day 
when the sun is in its zenith. It also has USB and 12V output which can be used 
for telephone or iPad charging. Unfortunately rainy days here are more often 
then sunny :(
 
 73, Igor UA9CDC
 07.02.2017 1:55, Mel Farrer :
  
  I use a Mercury 27 W foldable from Instapark.com with a 9.9 AH Life04 and 
runs the KX3 all day and most of the night plus it has a USB port to charge the 
laptop. 
  Mel, K6KBE 
 
From: Igor Sokolov <ua9...@gmail.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, February 6, 2017 12:42 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar power?
  
 I am using 60W foldable solar panel, Genasun MPPT controller 
 https://genasun.com/products-store/mppt-solar-charge-controllers/ (they 
 are RF quiet) and 5500 AH LiFePo4 battery with built it limiting 
 circuitry  which some outlets are selling as a substitute for lead acid 
 motorcycle batteries. All works just great with KX3. When using K3 I add 
 one more solar panel and 25 AH LiFePo4 battery. This proved to be enough 
 to keep going the whole day.
 
 
 73, Igor UA9CDC
 
 
 06.02.2017 23:37, Harry Yingst via Elecraft пишет:
 > My son has my KX3 and I'm building a K2. Both of us have a set of solar 
 > panel that are capable of a lil over an amp at 12v
 >
 > We are both looking for a battery idea and a method of hooking it to the 
 > solar panels to charge it .
 >
 > Thank you
 > __
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Re: [Elecraft] Solar power?

2017-02-06 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I use a Mercury 27 W foldable from Instapark.com with a 9.9 AH Life04 and runs 
the KX3 all day and most of the night plus it has a USB port to charge the 
laptop.
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Igor Sokolov <ua9...@gmail.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, February 6, 2017 12:42 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar power?
   
I am using 60W foldable solar panel, Genasun MPPT controller 
https://genasun.com/products-store/mppt-solar-charge-controllers/ (they 
are RF quiet) and 5500 AH LiFePo4 battery with built it limiting 
circuitry  which some outlets are selling as a substitute for lead acid 
motorcycle batteries. All works just great with KX3. When using K3 I add 
one more solar panel and 25 AH LiFePo4 battery. This proved to be enough 
to keep going the whole day.


73, Igor UA9CDC


06.02.2017 23:37, Harry Yingst via Elecraft пишет:
> My son has my KX3 and I'm building a K2. Both of us have a set of solar panel 
> that are capable of a lil over an amp at 12v
>
> We are both looking for a battery idea and a method of hooking it to the 
> solar panels to charge it .
>
> Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] power issues

2017-02-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The rule of thumb is to over design the system.  I have nearly the same system 
with a few differences.  I don't use a distribution panel,  rather my 2x 140 
AHr batteries and the solar panel are netted at the 
K3 with a 5 Farad cap 12" from the K3.  I monitor the voltage at the connector 
of the K3 and only see a .1-.2 volt drop from resting to key down.  So YES make 
all leads HEAVY and short.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: George Thornton <gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com>
 To: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>; 'Bob Jonas' <wx2i@gmail.com>; 
"elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Saturday, February 4, 2017 4:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] power issues
   
I did some checking today on my voltage to the K3 using two different routes.

I am using an Astron RS-35m power supply.  It was tuned up to output slightly 
under 14v.  Normally it mediates through a PG40s backup and switching device, 
connected to three 140AH backup batteries as well as the power supply.

When I connect the K3 power through the PG40S distribution panel I read 13.3 
volts at the K3.  This drops significantly when I transmit, going down to under 
12 volts.

I then direct-wired the K3 lead to the Astron using ten gauge wire and a 
relatively short lead.  Power at the K3 then reads 13.8 and drops only to 13.7 
during transmit.

Since I had failures attributed to erratic power supply, my conclusion is the 
K3 should only be run via a short, large gauge lead direct to a power supply in 
good order.


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Re: [Elecraft] Powered Speaker for KX1

2017-01-25 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
While no longer available, the X-Mini UNO self-powered speaker is Lion powered 
and good for up to 18 hours of use.  It has lasted a whole weekend with the KX3 
and charged from my solar panel via USB port when not in use.  Oh well,
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ken G Kopp <kengk...@gmail.com>
 To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:30 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powered Speaker for KX1
   
Yes, in some cases ... but mine (two) are powered by the same 12VDC buss as
everything else in the station.


73

K0PP


On Jan 25, 2017 11:23, "Jim Brown" <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com> wrote:

> On Wed,1/25/2017 8:04 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
>
>> Staples ... and other office supply stores ... sell a variety of small
>> powered speakers.
>>
>
> Yes, BUT -- they come with switch-mode power supplies, which will add RF
> noise to your receiver.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Output Impedance of the KX3

2017-01-23 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
OK, here goes my two cents on my KX3 operation.  I use the internal speaker for 
CW only.  I use a miniX self powered speaker for quiet portable work and I use 
a FM modulator from the phone jack while in the mobile to the car FM receiver.  
 All seems to work fine.  This way I don't worry about impedance issues.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: w7aqk <w7...@cox.net>; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 1:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Audio Output Impedance of the KX3
   
David,

Let me try to respond and perhaps Jim will chime in a well.

Modern audio amplifier output stages are very low output impedance devices.
As such, they can produce as much power as the device connected will 
allow.  In a practical design of course there is a limit to how much 
current the attached device (speaker or headphones) can draw from the 
amplifier.

With that being said, the lower the impedance, the more current that 
will be drawn.  Speakers are generally in the 4 ohm to 8 ohm region and 
a 4 ohm speaker will draw more current and develop more power than an 8 
ohm speaker.  The efficiency of a speaker makes a big difference in the 
amount of sound it produces.

Headphones are a slightly different matter (but only slightly) in that 
they are typically higher impedance and the current will be lower, and 
the voltage across it can be higher, but they are more efficient than 
speakers so it usually does not matter.  The efficiency of headphones is 
usually expressed in SPL - the higher the number, the greater the 
sensitivity.  Impedance does not matter much except in some low 
efficiency Hi-Fi audiophile headphones.

In an analogy, consider the AC power line - that is a very low impedance 
source of a fixed voltage.  How much power is taken from the line 
depends on the impedance of the device plugged into it.  Within limits, 
an audio amplifier shares some of the same characteristics even though 
its voltage and power are much more limited.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/23/2017 3:06 PM, w7aqk wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Maybe you could expand on that somewhat as I'm still confused a bit.
> Perhaps I'm not understanding what I hear, or why, but it almost always
> seems that when speakers (or headphones) are not closely matched to the
> designed impedance I notice some deterioration in output.  Some mismatch
> doesn't seem too serious, but when the difference is high, it seems much
> more noticeable.
>
> On the other hand, I've also experienced that using headphones with
> higher sensitivity ratings (like most Sony ear buds) tends to provide
> much higher output.  Most ear buds tend to be 32 ohm (16 at lest), but I
> find Sony ear buds usually work best as many of them have sensitivity
> ratings up around -108 dbm.  I could very well be fooling myself!
>
> This topic was covered somewhat similarly back when folks, including me,
> were complaining about poor audio output from Heil headphones.  The
> headphone portion of my Yamaha CM500 works a lot better than my Heil,
> but neither works as well as some ear buds.  I don't really have another
> good pair of headphones around here to try.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question

2017-01-01 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Terry what is the size of your roof line perimeter?
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Terry Brown <n...@comcast.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:55 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question
   
I am moving from my current QTH where I have a horizontal loop up about
35-40 ft. that is a bit longer than 1 wavelength on 80.  I feed it at one
corner with 450 ohm twin lead connected to a 4:1 voltage balun, then coax to
my rig.  I can tune all the ham bands either barefoot to my K2 or KX3 and
the KXPA100 using their internal tuners.

 

My new QTH will not have the real estate to do what I can now.  I was hoping
someone who is well versed with the EZNec antenna program could give me an
idea of how well what I think I can build, will work.  I will have a yagi
for 10-15-20.  I am particularly concerned that I may not be able to tune
80.  I have a Sunday CW qso with a group of great guys on 80 and want to
keep participating.

 

Here is the info on the new horizontal loop:

 

The east side will be 54 ft. long and be 2 ft. above my roof at a 35 ft.
height.  That leg of the loop will be over a roof that slopes away for about
8 feet.  The west side will be 78 ft. long and up 20 ft.  The remaining
north and south sides will be 38-40 feet each of the same length.  This will
give a loop a bit longer than 200 ft.  I plan to feed it again on a corner,
the NE corner when it is two feet from the roof and I can run the twin lead
down the side of the house to my shack.

 

I know this will be predominantly a cloud burner, but that is fine on 40 and
80.  My concern is being able to tune it on the 80, 40, 30, 17, and 24 meter
ham bands.  

 

My lot is only 80 by 100 so a doublet on 80 will not work without folding it
in several locations.  I have loved my loop and would love to be able to
continue using one.  The fact that it is horizontally polarized is so nice
for being able to work weak stations  without a lot of noise.

 

If anyone could help me with the analysis of this antenna, I would
appreciate it.

 

73's,

 

Terry, N7TB

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an external audio amp?

2016-12-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, I have an old SS 15 watt HIFI amp I use to feed a small HIFI speaker under 
the desk.  Works great and I can fill the room with CLEAN audio.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 2:46 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] I need More RX Volume on my K3, has anyone run an external 
audio amp?
   

I have the K3 and a pair of SP3 speakers

When I turn down the RF gain and turn on the NR (to clean up the band noise)  I 
run out of Audio (too quiet) to hear the weaker signals.

I was curious if anyone is running a small external amp between the K3 and the 
speakers to help bring up the volume?

Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna

2016-12-29 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
One thing I will add that has not been commented on, is the way of feeding a 
1/2 wl wire with a 1/4 wl twin lead. Where one side of the twin lead at the top 
is connected to the 1/2 wl wire.  You can feed the twin lead at the bottom with 
a 1:1 choke and you don't need a ground. Then for the upper bands, tie the twin 
lead together and feed it against your counterpoise.  The twin lead does not 
have to be completely vertical either.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
 To: Richard Fjeld <rpfj...@outlook.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 9:05 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna
   
Dick,

With buried radials, they do not have to be 1/4 wave long, and a single 
one will probably not make much difference over your ground rod.
What you want to accomplish is a "ground screen", which means many short 
(about 1/8 wavelength) close to the base of the radiator and a few 
extending out further (to 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength).

Ground conductivity plays a great part in buried radials, and what you 
are trying to accomplish is to increase the ground conductivity in the 
area at the base of the antenna.

If you were instead using elevated radials, they would have to be 
resonant - think of the various "ground plane" antennas that have been 
published - 1/4 wave radiator plus 2 or 4 1/4 wave radials.
Buried radials do not have to be resonant, elevated radials must be 
resonant.  The ground effects will alter the resonance of buried radials 
while radials in the air are a part of the total antenna resonance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2016 11:49 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> With reference to below, I have a question please.  I put up a quarter
> wave inverted-L for 160 meters.  My only counterpoise is the ground rods
> at the base of the tower.  I wasn't expecting much, but it does so well
> I'd like to add a decent counterpoise.
>
> If I bury a quarter wave wire, would it be best to put it under the
> Ariel wire, or opposite from it?
> Thanks in advance,
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

2016-12-27 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
One thing I might also add in.  I use the Film TO-220 style non-inductive 
resistors with a heat sink in the 200 ohm 1% configuration to test 4:1 baluns 
at 100 watt level to confirm non saturation on the small QRP baluns I make.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'Paul C' <paul...@sbcglobal.net>; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 3:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
   
For parts, digikey.com and mouser.com are good friends. No minimum order, great 
prices and huge selection. 

You've gotten several suggestions for a good dummy load. And I concur with the 
others, those wire-wound resistors might be 50 ohms but their reactance may 
almost anything and dependent upon frequency. One of the original "Elecrafter 
Field Testers" and "F.O.W." - friend of Wayne (Burdick) - was Tom Hammond, 
N0SS, no sadly an S.K. But his web site has been maintained and it contains a 
great low-cost dummy load design:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/dl_30w_hf-uhf.pdf

You might enjoy looking around the web site for more KX1 info and QRP info in 
general:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

Coaxial cable is every much as low loss as open wire line when the SWR is not 
too high. The difference in applying them is that the inherently 
higher-impedance of ladder line makes it much easier to keep the SWR on the 
line low enough to avoid excessive loss. For example, a hunk of wire between 50 
and 100 feet long strung up in the air and fed at its center will show an 
impedance of about 4,000 ohms at the frequency at which it is 1/2 wavelength 
long and perhaps as low as 40 ohms on 80 or 160 meters. With open wire line at 
about 400 ohms impedance, you will find an SWR of up to 10:1 on the feed line, 
generally much less. With 50 ohm coax, the SWR will range as high as 80:1 or 
more.

Have fun. At my shack, simple and cheap is great fun! 

73, Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul C
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:23 PM
To: Walter Underwood; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting me 
straight. 

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when possible.  I 
am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Walter Underwood" <wun...@wunderwood.org>
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 1:45 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 
<https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#>

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal <k2vco@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C <paul...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

2016-12-27 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Or these, they are good to VHF range.  
non inductive resistor Passive Components | Mouser
But if you want something that is good to microwave, then use 4 each 200 ohms 
1206 chip resistors around a panel mount female BNC connector.  Works slick.
Mel, K6KBE

  
|  
|  
|  
|   ||

  |

  |
|  
|   |  
non inductive resistor Passive Components | Mouser
 non inductive resistor Passive Components are available at Mouser Electronics. 
Mouser offers inventory, pricing,...  |   |

  |

  |

 



  From: Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org>
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 11:44 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
  
Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 
<https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#>

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal <k2vco@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C <paul...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Sync AM and checking VFO accuracy using WWV

2016-12-18 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
While all of the methods using WWV are excellent, many of us already have the 
GPS downloaded 10 MHz signal for the shop and ham shack.  I mentioned some time 
about using a Video distribution amplifier to pipe the 10 MHz signal around.  I 
have it at the operating console for any checks I need.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'Brendon Whateley' <bren...@whateley.com> 
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector Reflector' <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2016 11:49 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sync AM and checking VFO accuracy using WWV
   
The methods described by Wayne in the K3 or K3S Owner's manuals are
excellent. 

I used Method 2 (comparing to WWV's carrier frequency) and easily achieve
less than 1 Hz accuracy. If one needs something in the tenth's of a Hz or
better then more exotic techniques are required (and likely the K3EXREF and
an external frequency reference). 

NOTE: When using Method 2 with WWV, wait until the tones stop and only the
ticks are transmitted, then check to be sure you are still "zero beat". Some
ops get confused between the tones and carrier and end up several hundred Hz
off because they zero-beated the tone instead. 

For SSB/CW/RTTY modes accuracy to within some tens of Hz is fine. AM is even
less sensitive. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Brendon Whateley
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2016 10:56 AM
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sync AM and checking VFO accuracy using WWV

Depending on why you want the accuracy, I think you could improve things by
building a phase comparator to "listen" to the radio output frequency
against a local reference. That would allow you to get much closer than
using your ears as a phase detector. That should get you accuracy of a few %
of 1Hz at your frequency you are measuring.

If you are really serious about accuracy, you can build a frequency
reference based on the WWV transmissions that will get you to within 1 part
per billion at 1MHz without too much trouble.

There was a QEX article recently, which you can find on the web at
http://www.arrl.org/files/file/QEX_Next_Issue/2015/Nov-Dec_2015/Magliacane.p
df
.

I'm sure that spending money on a GPS reference would be quicker, but less
fun than building a project.

If you go down that road, you'll be well on your way to winning frequency
measuring contests!

- Brendon
KK6AYI

On Sun, Dec 18, 2016 at 5:07 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Brian,
>
> The higher the WWV frequency, the possible percentage of error goes down.
> One or two Hz is a smaller fraction of 20MHz than at 5MHz.
>
> In the K3, you are calibrating the reference (out of the synthesizer) 
> rather than calibrating the actual VFO frequency.  The actual VFO 
> frequency is derived from and phase locked to that reference.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 12/18/2016 12:17 AM, Brian Denley wrote:
>
>> Fred, Don:
>> I ask because I am curious.  On any older receiver, calibration at 20 
>> MHz would not guarantee cal below that ( or at any other frequency ).  
>> One could be 5 hz high at 30 MHz but 10 hz low at 7 MHz.  Why is the 
>> K3 different?
>>
>> Brian Denley
>> KB1VBF
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Dec 17, 2016, at 3:43 PM, Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> I guess it depends on how accurate you want your K3 frequency 
>>> display to be.  I think AM-S will warp the frequency a tiny bit to 
>>> sync the carrier so that may not be the best mode.  I'd also go as high
as you can on WWV.
>>>
>>> Wayne suggested a method that is somewhere on the E-site which I 
>>> used--
>>>
>>> Use the highest WWV frequency that you can hear well.  USB or LSB, 
>>> WIDTH to 500-800 Hz, SHIFT so can hear the carrier beat note [it 
>>> will be very low].  CONFIG-->REF CAL, wait for a tone-less minute 
>>> and adjust REF CAL for exact zero beat.  You'll be counting the 
>>> pulsations in the background noise as you come up on zero beat.
>>>
>>> I got mine to about 10 seconds per pulsation on 20 MHz back when 
>>> there were sunspots.  That's an accuracy of 0.1 Hz and everything 
>>> below 20 MHz will be at least that good.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Fred K6DGW
>>> - Sparks NV DM09dn
>>>
>>> - Northern California Contest Club
>>> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 7-8 Oct 2017
>>> - www.cqp.org
>>>
>>> On 12/16/2016 5:12 PM, Michael via Elecraft wrote:
>>>> If I set my K3's VFO to WWV at 5.00 MHz with AM-S onand I 
>>>> adjust "REF CAL" to a numbe

Re: [Elecraft] Mobile Radio Dreams

2016-12-13 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Hi, 
I use the KX3 in the mobile with a HLA300Plus amplifier and get >200 watts 
clean into a HI-Q 5-160 screwdriver antenna, going on 3 years, no problems.  
Nice, because when I get to the park, I disconnect the KX3 and it is on the 
park table with my small battery and end fed wire.  Great fun.
BTW., if you go to UTube California Hammin' you can see my mobile set  up, 
Cheers,


Mel, K6KBE


  From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mobile Radio Dreams
   
On Tue,12/13/2016 11:49 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:
> What if Elecraft made a radio specifically designed as a mobile radio?

IMO, the KX3 with its 100W amp comes awfully close to being an ideal HF 
rig for mobile use. All it takes is a suitable mount that puts it at eye 
level.

For something fancier, look at what Glen, W6GJB, did for an op riding 
shotgun for the 7th Area QSO Party. The 100W amp is in the floor of the 
back seat. Slide #8 in http://k9yc.com/7QP.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

2016-10-10 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I don't know the suggested turning radius of LMR400.  In my system I use about 
6 foot jumper of RG213 to do the section around the rotating section.  I use a 
KLM 8 el and the total length is longer.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: John Stengrevics <jstengrev...@comcast.net>
 To: hsherr...@reagan.com 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 3:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question
   
I run LMR400 to my 6 & 2 meter antennas with no problems.  Just leave enough 
slack around the rotor and you’ll be fine.

John
WA1EAZ

> On Oct 10, 2016, at 6:14 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote:
> 
> OK all. I'm installing a 6m rotating beam and feeding it with LMR400. Would 
> you connect the LMR to the antenna and allow it to move with the rotation, or 
> run a short length of something much more flexible between the antenna and 
> LMR? I have my concerns that the solid heavy inner conductor of the LMR won't 
> take much movement.
> 
> Harlan
> K4HES
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!

2016-10-06 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The best way, I think to answer your question is to base that on several things.
1.  How comfortable are you in digging into the building process.  Like Bob 
said the experience is priceless.2.  Monetarily, you have to way the 
convenience vs the cost based on your ability to do the assembly.3.  All of the 
options can be added later, as they have said, it is just a matter of priority.
I built the KX3 basic and added the ATU, VHF option and others later and it was 
a TRIP on first turn on to see I could do it  Good Luck on your 
purchase you will not regret it.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Bob <k...@ptd.net>
 To: Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, October 6, 2016 10:43 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soon to be an Elecraft(er)!
   
I agree with Don on looking at the purchase sequencing.  I'd look at and 
consider moving the roofing filters up on the priority list because of the 
calibration required.  Per the manual page 1 if purchased even as a kit the 
furnished roofing filter accessory is then furnished calibrated.

So look at the roofing filter manual and read the calibration procedure.  Would 
you want to do it at a later date or buy with the original purchase and not 
have 
to worry about it.  Looking at kit verses factory assembly. If factory 
assembled was a consideration going for the kit would save 2/3 the price of the 
roofing filter option.

The fun of building the kit and the satisfaction of the first turn on is 
priceless.

73,

Bob

K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR


On 10/6/2016 12:00 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
> The roofing filters require some calibration. If they are factory-installed, 
> Elecraft does that for you. All the other options are exactly the same 
> whether factory-installed or user-installed.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
>> On Oct 6, 2016, at 8:13 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Brian,
>>
>> The answer is YES, you can add any of those options later.
>> Review your operating aspirations to determine which options will provide 
>> the most benefit for you, and in what timeframe.
>> If you have resonant antennas at the home station (or are willing to use a 
>> manual tuner initially), then you can put off the KXAT100.
>> If your main immediate goal is for portable operation, I would suggest that 
>> the KXAT3 would be a great help as well as the internal battery charger, but 
>> if your portable operation is on hold for the Winter, then you can add those 
>> next Spring.
>>
>> I am suggesting that you look at the sequence for adding your options in a 
>> way that will provide the most benefit for you while adhering to your ham 
>> budget.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 10/6/2016 10:31 AM, Brian “VE3BWP” Pietrzyk wrote:
>>> Further to my earlier post I've decided to move forward and go with the 
>>> KX3/KXPA100 combo to replace my ft817 AND my Kenwood TS590. The ft817 has 
>>> already found its new home and my TS590 will soon be next. Again, it will 
>>> be nice to just have one radio for base and QRP on trips.
>>> I priced out what I think I'll need and it comes to $3.5k US ($5k cdn) so 
>>> I'm hoping this can be done in stages.
>>> So my question is if I buy just the KX3 and KXPA100 to start, will I be 
>>> able to add in the internally mounted upgrades such as both antenna tuners, 
>>> roofing filter, vhf module, battery charger etc later? Or are there certain 
>>> options it's better to include upfront? Ve3bwp
>>>
>>>
>>


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Re: [Elecraft] Mag loop bender

2016-10-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
OK,  enough,
If you don't want any kinks in it.  You should slowly fill the tube with DRY 
sand and tap it until it it is packed full THEN proceed with the bending.    IF 
you have packed the sand tightly the bend will resist kinking.  I have used 
this for bending tubing over a pulley with good results.  The pulley for the 
bend radius you need should to be progressive from large to final. For me it 
took three sizes to get to the final radius without kinks.  Works with aluminum 
and copper.  Does not work on conduit.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: P.J.Hicks <hickspj...@comcast.net>
 To: ELECRAFT <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2016 3:33 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Mag loop bender
   
Bending tube for Mag loop. 
Simplest way is to get a piece of plywood about 3' to 4' square. Cut an arch of 
18" in a 2" x 6" or 2" x 8" and nail it to the plywood. Next cut an another 
arch from plywood of about 19" or 19 1/2" and nail it to the other arch forming 
a channel. Use the channel as a bending guide to slowly bring the tube into 
shape. 

PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] how to optimize end-fed?

2016-09-29 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Fred said it right,  

Let me go to another side of the question.  No auto-transformer can match all 
of the antenna reflected impedances,  but using a parallel tank circuit to 
ground CAN.  The beauty of this arrangement is that you can tap the coil on the 
input of the coil and tap the output for a VERY wide range of impedance.  R and 
j .  What seems to have been lost in the transition from ancient and now is 
that we did not have ATU's.  All of the PRE now used tuned circuit match boxes. 
 Now you have to think about it for a few minutes.
Let me explain, the tuned parallel tank circuit can do a wide range of matching 
BECAUSE, If you tun the tank to one side of resonance your get a negative 
reactance,  if you tune it to the other side you get positive reactance.   
HUMMM.
If the tank circuit is a true resonant one, the impedance across the coil from 
top to bottom is a range of the impedance available from HIZ to ZERO.  This is 
the beauty of the parallel tuned circuit over a auto transformer.  Oh well at 
least I remember it.
Mel, K6KBE




  From: Fred Jensen <k6...@foothill.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 1:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] how to optimize end-fed?
   
> Am I right to assume that the ATU settings with the lowest L is
 > always the best?

I don't know exactly what you mean by "best," but you said "always" so 
I'd say no.  If the length of your wire is in the vicinity of n * 90 
degrees where n is any odd integer, it will have a low-ish impedance at 
the end and 1:1 would be appropriate [if your UNUN had it].  If the 
length is around 180 degrees [or any integer multiple thereof] it will 
exhibit a fairly high impedance.

How long is the wire?
What band?

If the 1:4, 1:9, and 1:16 that you quote are turns ratios, the impedance 
transformation equals the square of them.  12,800 ohms and a 16:1 turns 
ratio yields 50 ohms.  12 Kohms likely exceeds the impedance at the end 
of a half-wave by quite a bit.

The Elecraft ATU losses are very low unless you're trying to match some 
outrageous impedance at the end of or beyond it's useful range.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 9/29/2016 12:50 PM, Holger Schurig wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have an end-fed antenna with some random wire. The UNUN at one end of it
> has three sockets to plug the random wire in: 1:4, 1:9 and 1:16.
>
> My KX3 has the built-in ATU.
>
> I now want to find out on which band I best use which one of the sockets.
> As a first step, I wrote a simple program kx3lc.py (see
> https://gist.github.com/anonymous/5d53f5bdbc50782a9d5e2c8d7062be69) that
> can give me an output like this:
>
> holger@laptop:/usr/src/afu/kx3/swr$ ./kx3lc.py
> L: 0.12 mH,  C: 203.0 pF on transmitter side
>
>
> Am I right to assume that the ATU settings with the lowest L is always the
> best?  So when I have (for the three sockets), these values,
>
> L: 0.12 mH,  C: 203.0 pF on transmitter side
> L: 0.0 mH,  C: 246.0 pF on transmitter side
> L: 0.0 mH,  C: 256.0 pF on antenna side  (but lowest SWR 1.2-1)
>
> ... that the middle socket is the best?
>
> 73
> Holger, DH3HS

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 temporary high SWR on PTT with external Amplifier

2016-09-29 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Yes, the switching time in the amplifier is too slow,  hence you need to 
consider sequencing the amp keying so that it keys first then the KX3.  Sounds 
like the amp has a relay vs solid state switching.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: EA2BD via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 9:06 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 temporary high SWR on PTT with external Amplifier
   
Hello,
I want to check if anyone experiences the same behaviour when connecting the
KX3 to an external amplifier.

- I receintly added an external amplifier to my KX3.
- I connected the PTT cable to the ACC2 port and to the amplifier.
- I set the Menu ACC2 on the KX3 to Active low, as specified.
- I verified if the cable works and it closes contact all right every time I
key down.

The TROUBLE is:
Everytime I send a dit (CW) or start talking (Voice) the SWR indicator on
the KX3 shows full reading (Hi SWR!) just briefly and it quickly relaxes
down to normal reading (SWR 1:1) during the rest of transmission.

I believe there should be any kind of delay between the TX on the KX3 and
the TX on the ampli, that causes the momentarily Hi SWR reading... But this
is extrange because the PTT cable is in!

  Does anyone have experienced similar phaenomena?
  Any idea to overcome this?
  Do you consider there will be a real overload on the finals due to this
small transient time?

I drive with 2 watt out from the KX3 to get around 90W out from my
Amplifier.

Wait for your feedback, many thanks!
73 de Ignacio EA2BD



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-temporary-high-SWR-on-PTT-with-external-Amplifier-tp7622916.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality

2016-09-16 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Joe and all,
Isn't this where the rubber hits the road?  That is while your EQ settings are 
OK  It does not address the audio spectrum generated by the speaker.  

Consider a baritone against a soprano on the same settings.  I think we need to 
hear from Jim on how they adjust the mixer settings for each person, news or 
music
Thanks.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <li...@subich.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 5:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality
   

EQ settings here:

SSB: -16, -16, -6, 0, 0, +3,  +5,  -6

CW:  -16,  -3,  0, 0, 0, -6, -10, -12

SSB setting are designed to roll off low frequency QRM,
provide some "presence" in the 1200-2800 Hz range essential
for intelligibility and roll off high frequency hiss, noise
and QRM.

Those who like "full range" audio (ESSB QRM generators) will
be appalled at the low frequency cut but it makes a big
improvement in intelligibility in most conditions.  Audio at
100 Hz and below is absolutely not needed for communication.

CW Settings are designed to roll off outside my CW listening
range.  My "pitch" is 460 Hz so I keep 200 - 800 Hz flat and
cut above/below a 600-700 Hz passband.  If one is using a
higher "pitch" it would be worthwhile changing the 1600 Hz
band from -6 to 0.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

On 9/16/2016 5:14 PM, Rich wrote:
> Would you be kind enough to post your EQ values?
>
> Rich
>
> K3RWN
>
>
> On 9/16/2016 15:18 PM, Greg wrote:
>> When I first got my K3, I was used to a FT1000D and had the SP5
>> speaker to
>> go with it.  A friend who also has a FT1000D told me he thought the K3
>> sounded like "$#@%" compared to the FT1000D...so I hooked the K3 up to
>> the
>> second input on the SP5 and switched back and forth between the
>> FT1000D and
>> the K3, making equalizer adjustments to the K3 as I did so.  Finally I
>> felt
>> I had the K3 sounding like a FT-1000D.  My friend came over and I made
>> him
>> turn around so he could not see which radio he was listening to...At that
>> point when I switched from one radio to the other, he could not tell
>> which
>> was which.  Of course he grumbled that you shouldn't have to make
>> changes to
>> a new radio to get it to sound good...but I just laughed...  The
>> beauty of
>> the K3 is having the ability to do what you want, and adjusting the
>> sound to
>> personal taste is only one feature!  73, Greg-N4CC
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator" Message-ID:

2016-09-05 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
OK, for us old farts, we operated mobile on 3995 KHz, the HIGH END, as we 
called it..hi.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, September 5, 2016 3:38 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator" Message-ID:
   
On Mon,9/5/2016 2:04 PM, mikerodgerske5gbc--- via Elecraft wrote:
> And by the way, its the generals like my self that are relegated to the high 
> end of the bands.

Last I heard, there were no restrictions on who could study for and take 
the Extra Class exam.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Suggested antennas for the KX-2 for portable ops

2016-08-12 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Just on the scene, Look up: Aerial 51.
Mel, K6KBE




  From: Jack Colson <jcols...@tampabay.rr.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 1:58 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Suggested antennas for the KX-2 for portable ops
   
I am sure that there are many ideas as to good antennas for the KX-2 in 
portable use.  I’d like to hear some!
73, Jack, W3TMZ
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire Misrepresentation?)

2016-08-11 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Also, the number of wires by size in conduit should help the cost equation 
also.   3 ea #6 conductor requires 1" conduit, while 3 ea, #12 can be put in 
1/2" conduit.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Lewis Phelps <l...@n6lew.us>
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 12:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire 
Misrepresentation?)
   
I’ve changed the subject line because this discussion has strayed from the 
original question.

At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com) #6 wire is 89 cents per 
foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming Clay’s 50 foot run and 3 
wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, the added cost for wire would 
be $121.20.  

Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an electrical 
standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost standpoint, albeit 
not harmful. 

 I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt circuit, 
and using larger wire size than is required simply from considering ampacity,  
because the voltage drop is a much larger change proportionally, but I really 
don’t see the benefit from the expense and added installation difficulty of 
using larger-than-required wire for a 120VAC supply circuit.

according to the online calculator at 
http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, which takes into 
account both resistance and reactance of the wire:

— for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC single 
phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a net voltage 
at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
— for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472 volts, 
or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of 116.5 volts 
(rounding). 

The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing power 
directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if feeding a 
competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC  supply to some 
lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that is specified to 
operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without difficulty from a 116.5 
volts supply.

So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
“good operating practices” perspective. 

Lew N6LEW



> On Aug 11, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Kevin - K4VD <ke...@k4vd.net> wrote:
> 
> The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
> this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?
> 
> Kevin K4VD
> 
> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com 
> <mailto:caut...@montac.com>> wrote:
> 
>> How do you define "necessary".
>> 
>> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>> 
>> I agree...
>> 
>> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
>> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
>> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>> 
>> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
>> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
>> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
>> demand...
>> 
>> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
>> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
>> terminals are rated for.
>> 
>> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>> 
>> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
>>> Is 10 gauge necessary?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and inverter generators

2016-08-10 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
 Or a FARAD cap   

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Bob N3MNT <b...@hogbytes.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 10:01 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and inverter generators
   
I recommend adding a 12V Battery to the system to provide a buffer.  This
will be of more important if running 100W CW. 




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-and-inverter-generators-tp7621460p7621465.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

2016-08-09 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I found that putting the clear shipping tape on the display before going into 
the rough will save the display.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'Nick Kennedy' <nick-wa5...@suddenlink.net>; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 1:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
   
A slightly more aggressive approach is to pick up the headlight lens cleaner 
sold at most automobile stores - the stuff that takes the "yellow" haze off of 
plastic headlight covers. It's also sold for use on aircraft windshields to 
polish out the scratches that inevitably come from charging through the air at 
150 mph or so (but that costs 10X as much because it is sold for use on 
"airplanes"). 

All you do is wipe it on, rubbing aggressively with a cloth and then, as it 
turns white, wipe it off. 

I've read of people using toothpaste with the same result. (And then you'd have 
a fluoride protected lens that won't get tooth decay.) 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 9:42 AM
To: Nick Kennedy; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

Nick,

The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area with some 
pressure.
That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate scratches that 
have gouged into the plastic.

If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is to order a 
new bezel.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
> I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, 
> shame on me!)
>
> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
> be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

2016-08-07 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Check Jim's tutorial on RFI.  You will need some clip on #31 cable ferrites, I 
think.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Cortland Richmond <k...@earthlink.net>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, August 7, 2016 2:54 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes
   
I had a similar problem in 2005 when noise from a 2kW Honda got into my 
RV on FD.  Lacking any ferrites etc I borrowed a plastic "milk bottle 
box" and wound about 30 feet of extension cord around it., which worked 
well as a temporary fix.

Cortland
ka5s

On 8/7/2016 2:21 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> I have an inverter generator producing S9 noise on 3.5Mhz, and S7 noise on 
> 7Mhz. Higher frequencies are clear.
> If I were to use a trifilar wound choke on the lead from the generator, what 
> would be the best mix...43, 77 or?

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Re: [Elecraft] My New Mobile

2016-07-31 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
CALL, MOVE OFF...
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Rose <elecraftcov...@gmail.com>
 To: 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 11:57 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My New Mobile
   
Anyone I hear making QSO's on the calling frequency goes on my
"don't ever work" list posted on my desk, and will miss my somewhat
rare grid square. (DN36) (;-)

73

K0PP

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
wrote:

> On Sun,7/31/2016 11:00 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>
>> I have the 2M module so can operate 6m/2m SSB for roving/mobile.
>>
>
> Do you work CW? It's a LOT more effective under the marginal conditions
> that often exist on 6M/2M. Saw you spotted yesterday on the calling
> frequency. That's a great place to monitor, but a terrible place to
> operate. The good ops move off the calling frequency when the band is open.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier

2016-07-29 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
If anyone needs information on the older KLM/Mirage amplifiers, I have some of 
the original documentation when I was at KLM/Mirage in the '70/'80 time period. 
Would be glad to share.

Mel, K6KBEOne of the founders of KLM Electronics


  From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 12:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier
   
On Fri,7/29/2016 10:31 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Are those capable of linear operation for SSB as the poster asked? The ones
> I had back then were non-linear (class C) strictly for FM/CW only.

CW is 100% modulation of a carrier by a rectangular wave, so the 
harmonics associated with rise and fall times create at least as much 
distortion as SSB. That distortion shows up in the form of clicky 
sidebands. It's quite easy to see these sidebands on a P3. Here's some 
work I did a year or two ago measuring some rigs that were available to me.

http://k9yc.com/P3_Spectrum_Measurements.pdf

The second file contains much of the same data, but focuses on 
improvements made by firmware upgrades to the FTDX5000 a year or two ago.

http://k9yc.com/FTDX5000_Report.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier

2016-07-29 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
All of the Mirage amplifiers called linear were just that.  Only special order 
FM repeater amplifiers could be Class C.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 10:31 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier
   
Are those capable of linear operation for SSB as the poster asked? The ones
I had back then were non-linear (class C) strictly for FM/CW only. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Several years ago, we searched for and acquired vintage (30 year old) brick
amps that drive with either 2W or 10W for an output of about 150W. 
They have built-in preamps. These vintage amps were made during the 70s and
80s with the Mirage and RF Concepts name, and were built in Northern
California. They also made versions of these amps that required higher drive
levels -- 30W and 50W, I think, and they also made versions for
440 MHz. I own some of those too, which I use with the FM rig in my shack.
The Mirage name was later bought by MFJ. We found four of these vintage amps
in good condition in a few days simply by asking on two local club
reflectors. I don't remember what we paid, but I do know that we considered
them a bargain. :)

Those older amps are a great fit to an Elecraft rig with an Elecraft
transverter. We use the version that drives with 2W so that we can run the
transverter at the lowest possible power, thus reducing heat.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier

2016-07-28 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Any of the older ones rated at less than 10 watt in and a linear version not 
Class C will be fine.  I have used the KLM, Mirage and TPL units with success 
on two meters with various rigs both FM and SSB.  There are quite a few on the 
used market, just make sure it still works as advertised for rated output.  

Good luck.
Mel, K6KBE 
One of the founders of KLM Electronics


  From: Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:20 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier
   
I need one of those...  Adding 2m as soon as I can.

Can you give me some better info on that low drive unit, Jim?  Bet one
of the guys around here has one they aren't using...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/28/2016 12:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Thu,7/28/2016 9:50 AM, Dirk Handzic wrote:
>> Does anyone use a KX3 + internal 2m transverter with an external
>> amplifier?
>
> My neighbor W6GJB and I both have K3s with Elecraft 2m transverters.
> His is internal, mine is external (I've owned it for more than ten
> years). Several years ago, we searched for and acquired vintage (30
> year old) brick amps that drive with either 2W or 10W for an output of
> about 150W. They have built-in preamps. These vintage amps were made
> during the 70s and 80s with the Mirage and RF Concepts name, and were
> built in Northern California. They also made versions of these amps
> that required higher drive levels -- 30W and 50W, I think, and they
> also made versions for 440 MHz. I own some of those too, which I use
> with the FM rig in my shack. The Mirage name was later bought by MFJ.
> We found four of these vintage amps in good condition in a few days
> simply by asking on two local club reflectors. I don't remember what
> we paid, but I do know that we considered them a bargain. :)
>
> Those older amps are a great fit to an Elecraft rig with an Elecraft
> transverter. We use the version that drives with 2W so that we can run
> the transverter at the lowest possible power, thus reducing heat.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

2016-07-22 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
I have tried to find the NOVA series on Direct TV without success.  Anyone know 
what channel it will be on?
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Grant Youngman <ghyoung...@gmail.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 11:01 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle
   
Or even DX on 15 at 2-3 o'clock in the morning.  My little DX-40 worked a lot 
of DX in those days -- phone and CW -- and it rarely mattered what time of day 
it was. 

I don't think conditions have been anywhere close to that since 

Grant NQ5T 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2016, at 1:22 PM, Kevin Cozens <ke...@ve3syb.ca> wrote:
> 
>> On 16-07-21 10:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> I was first licensed in 1955 and cycle 19 (the granddaddy of them all) was
>> on the rise.
>> Those were the times when you could work the world with 10 watts on 10
>> meters during the daytime hours.
> 
> The bands would have been a lot quieter back in the 50's as there was neither 
> the population density nor the amount of technology to pollute the airwaves 
> with stray RF signals.
> 
> -- 
> Cheers!
> 
> Kevin.
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

2016-07-13 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
On a slightly different take, controlling the vertical pattern, ie minimizing 
the minor lobes, will have a significant effect on gain as the major lobe now 
gets all of the energy.  Elevated radials have more to do in establishing the 
actual TOA above ground.  This is not easy.  Try modelling the vertical with 
radials in free space and see the TOA move around and the minor lobes move with 
the angle of the radials away for 90 degrees.  When you have the TOA where you 
want it, move the antenna to somewhere AGL and watch the pattern.  The ground 
losses will now start to absorb the lower portion of the major lobe.  The 
result will always be a higher TOA unless over VERY conductive ground.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: David Gilbert <xda...@cis-broadband.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 1:24 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
   

Lowering takeoff angle.

Regarding the other part, I've stated it as clearly as I can about three 
times now.  If you disagree or can't follow the point, I don't think 
anything else I might say will change that.

73,

Dave  AB7E


On 7/13/2016 12:03 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
> Ok, but I'm unclear about what "improves radiation pattern" means. To 
> paraphrase your other premise, "I'm not sure if it does or doesn't but 
> if it does, I'm sure it's big" has me wondering.  But I wonder about a 
> lot of things...
>
>
> On 7/13/2016 10:38 AM, David Gilbert wrote:
>>
>> No, I didn't mean that.
>>
>> If sloping ground improves radiation pattern, it's going to be worth 
>> more than 1 db.  Pattern changes of any sort typically have 
>> significant effect, whereas one db is almost trivial (notwithstanding 
>> my own experiments on that on my website).  I'm not saying that 
>> sloping ground actually has a significant effect ... only that if it 
>> has any effect at all it is likely to be greater than 1 db.
>>
>> Dave  AB7E
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/13/2016 10:06 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
>>> I hope you meant much less than 1 dB.
>>>
>>> On 7/13/2016 1:49 AM, David Gilbert wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Agree on the coax losses, but totally disagree on both of your 
>>>> other comments:
>>>>
>>>> 1.  Elevated radials will ONLY help reduce near field ground losses 
>>>> ... they will do nothing to help radiation pattern. The effects of 
>>>> ground conductivity determine far field pattern (given a particular 
>>>> profile) no matter what kind of radials he uses.
>>>>
>>>> 2.  If there is any gain benefit from the terrain profile at all, 
>>>> it will be much more than 1 db.
>>>>
>>>> Dave  AB7E 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

2016-07-12 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Elevated radials will do more by establishing a fixed array configuration on 
match and pattern.  The orientation of the ground is another issue but with a 
fixed orientation the pattern will be more subtle.  I run multiple antennas 
with vertical orientation and find that the ground conductivity has more to 
change the pattern than the radials.  That said, look at the ground 
conductivity in your area and see if it is constant over a year or widely wet 
to dry.  If the ground is highly variable, the elevated radials will help give 
you a more stable operating platform or match.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: John Langdon <jlangd...@austin.rr.com>
 To: 'Craig Smith' <cr...@powersmith.net>; "'Dauer, Edward'" 
<eda...@law.du.edu> 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
   
The elevated radials should help reduce near field I2R losses, but the sloping 
terrain will help far field reinforcement and produce 'gain' in some 
directions, although at 80M it should slope for further than a mile away to 
really make a difference.  I do not think elevated radials will change the far 
field reflections from the sloping terrain in any way.

At 80M, even small hardline should have very low loss, so I would go for the 
location that has the better terrain profile.

73 John N5CQ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Craig 
Smith
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:50 PM
To: Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

Ted …

I think you are overstating the coax losses.  Even stock RG-11 should be 
perhaps 0.3 dB/100ft on 80 meters - around 1.5 dB for the 500 ft. run.  

Even so, I would probably gravitate toward the closer location.  With the 
elevated radials, the effects of the ground conductivity should be minimal.  
Not sure if ON4UNs data assume elevated radials or many on-ground radials.  It 
could be that his estimate of the sloping ground advantage is for the later.  
With the closer location, you will have perhaps 1 dB stronger signal in all 
directions because of the lower feedline loss.

73    Craig  AC0DS

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

2016-07-12 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Don't discount the Hex Beam concept.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP <k2vco@gmail.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown <n...@comcast.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
   
Hello Terry,

In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower 
is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along 
the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the 
antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you 
any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some 
distance from the house.

Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of 
the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, 
though.

I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will 
have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may 
find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, 
but has a wider bandwidth.

There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the 
venerable TA-33.

Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. 
In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On the
> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>
> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.  The view to the east is
> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.  I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
> the tower on the west side of the house.  \
>
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
>
> 1.    Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.  To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
>
> 2.    I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.  I think a tubular
> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation.
> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
>
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
>
> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
> from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
> balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
> or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
> vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
> side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
> my hori

Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas

2016-07-11 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The alternative on a standard duplex box is where the "blades" are at right 
angles to the normal outlet..  Therefore never allowing a misconnection.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
 To: Reflector Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 2:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas
   
On Mon,7/11/2016 2:07 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:
> I am guessing that installing a grounded 240V receptacle and using the 
> conduit as ground is *not* up to code. 

It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In many 
jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green wire IF it is 
continuous and all the connections are made properly. As I recall, it's 
legal in Chicago, where steel conduit is used for almost everything, in 
large part to keep union electricians working.

In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly bonded for the 
entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.

> If it were, then perhaps I could install a NEMA 6-30 receptacle (which 
> has a ground pin and two hots). 

I don't know connectors by number, but what I would install is a 
standard outlet with two hots and ground that is slightly larger than an 
ordinary 120V outlet.  Or even two outlets in the same steel backbox, 
like a 120V duplex.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Setup

2016-06-28 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
The trick is winning the battle with the fourth grade teacher WHO demanded 
everyone write  with their right hand.  To this day I can sign my name with 
either hand and send with either one, straight or bug, but I throw and shoot 
right handed.  We didn't have left handed rifles in my day..
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Bill Frantz <fra...@pwpconsult.com>
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 5:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Setup
   
Nick, KZ2V is also right handed, but sends left handed, so he's 
another. (I don't know if he can send right handed.)

73 Bill AE6JV

On 6/28/16 at 5:04 PM, n...@sonic.net (Alan Bloom) wrote:

>Here's one.  In college I was rooming with a left-handed ham 
>about the time I was switching from a straight key.  So I 
>learned on his left-handed bug.  To this day I can send with 
>either hand on a bug or keyer.

---
Bill Frantz        | I don't have high-speed      | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | internet. I have DSL.        | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |                              | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

2016-05-27 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of 
lengths.  Well within your budget.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: George Dubovsky <n4ua...@gmail.com>
 To: Reuben Popp <reuben.p...@gmail.com> 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 7:19 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mast question
   
I would look for 3 used sections of Rohn 25, then figure out how to safely
bracket it to your house, if possible. That should be do-able for somewhere
close to your budget and certainly capable of holding up a G5RV.

73,

geo - n4ua

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp <reuben.p...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
> related.
>
> I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
> the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
> what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
>
> There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
> slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> abouts).
>
> The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
> out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
> possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
> helps any).
>
> So, what do folks recommend?
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