Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Roger beep

2007-05-04 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Over here on this side of the big pond, it's considered rather crass. 
Rather like noisily breaking wind at church in the middle of the prayer. 
This caused by the shenanigans by CB operators on the 27 Mhz. band.  Sadly 
duplicated by newbie amateur operators on 2 meter FM band frequently. 
Generally considered rude operating practices.


No ill will meant to you guys in UK.

73,
Sandy W5TVW


- Original Message - 
From: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: David Ferrington [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Roger beep



David, please understand the reaction from some over here
on this side of the pond.  Roger beeps, along with echo
boxes are standard fare for the wanna-be hams on our
CB channels.
Actually, perhaps a roger beep makes a bit of sense in the
marginal, sometimes imaginary world of VHF/UHF contesting
QSO's  ...

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 160 meter modification

2007-04-14 Thread Sandy W5TVW
My old computer records were lost on this.  Someone will come up with the 
info, I'm sure.  In the meantime, I'll search thru my printed archives and 
see if I came retrieve the data.


ALL the parts are avaiolable from Elecraft EXCEPT the crystal.  I got mine 
from ICM (International Crystal).   The 160/80 board works VERY well and has 
been a lot of fun.


73,

Sandy W5TVW

- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Gehring [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 7:27 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160 meter modification



I am looking for instructions to build or modify a KFL1-2 filter board for
160 meter operations.

73 K2CG

Chuck G.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Hexkey

2007-04-14 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Never used a Hexkey here.  Tried the Bencher paddles and disliked them very 
much.  I have two paddles I use with automatic keyers:  Old Vibroplex 
vibrokeyer which is nothing more than a shortened and reworked bug, and 
the German Palm Key.  The Palmkey is very small, but has a great feel to 
it.  I don't use the iambic key imbically.  I'm from the very old school 
of the Vibroplex bug and Johnson/Mac keys.  Wish I still had a Mac Key!  My 
avorite Vibroplex pattern is the Champion/Lightning Bug flat lever key. 
I had an Original and even a Presentation once.  Didn't like them near as 
much as the cheaper flat pattern ones.  I also have a very beat up Blue 
Racer  which does a nice job, but always had to add weight to them to make 
them go slower than 30 WPM dits!


73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Hexkey



Why would you reverse the normal thumb for dits, index finger for dashes
setup? That's been standard since the first bugs and carried over 
unchanged

into the paddle/keyers.

It sounds like you are running into an essential difference in sending 
that

has shown up since keyers became common. Although both bugs and keyers
typically use side-by-side paddles, there are substantial differences in 
how
they are operated. A bug requires significant mechanical force and 
movement

to operate the dit pendulum to make dits and then stop them at the right
moment. Several designs have attempted to reduce the demands of a 
mechanical
bug, but it's still a huge amount of movement and energy compared to 
simply

accomplishing the contact closure a keyer needs.

Many newer CW ops who never used a bug developed a preference for very
close-spaced contacts that can be operated with a feather touch on the
paddles. That's completely at odds with the action needed for a bug.

Many paddles designed for use with keyers - particularly the earlier 
paddles

- featured movement and springs much like a mechanical bug: lots of throw
and relatively stiff springs. They were operated like a bug - usually
rolling the whole arm side to side with the fingers held steady to contact
the paddles with sufficient force without wearing out one's finger 
muscles!
The original Vibroplex paddles were one of those designs, like my Scotia 
and

HamKey paddles.

Then came the light touch designs designed to work with an absolute
minimum of movement and force. The Bencher was an early one. People used 
to

a mechanical bug tended to knock them apart just sending a CQ! Newer
operators learned to hold their arm still and lightly caress the paddles
with their fingertips. Used that way, they work fine.

I can't speak for the HexKey. I use my Speed-X or Vibroplex Bugs at home 
and

my KXPD1 paddles in the field where it's not practical to haul a bug. The
KXPD1 paddles, by the way, are able to deal with my fist without 
complaint.


The bottom line is that it all comes down to how you want to operate the
key: strong rolling fist like a bug operator or the feather touch of a 
keyer
operator? If the former, you need to find someone who has really pounded 
on

the HexKey to be sure it will survive long.

There was a secondary problem with the first Bencher that deserves 
checking

on any modern paddles. The Bencher uses a single spring that is stretched
around a chrome-plated post in the back. Bumping the key in just the wrong
way would dislodge that spring, causing it and the paddles to fly off of 
the

base! I suspect the designer assumed they'd be treated like a bug - NOT
bumped! The sensitive springs and pendulum of a bug can be damaged by
careless handling, but operators not used to bugs tended to assume the
paddles were as structurally sound as any straight key. Not so,
unfortunately, and dropping or banging a Bencher was inviting time spent
looking for the spring and paddle mechanisms behind the operating desk or 
on

the floor somewhere.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gil Gibbs
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 10:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Hexkey


Gents;

 I'm in the process of relearning how to use a paddle, having only
gotten the feel of a Vibroplex keyer three decades back from an old pal.
I'm now stumbling around with a Bencher paddle, the first of the line
that's of the fall apart design, and thus I have to be careful about
how I handle it, which distracts me from training myself to use thumb
for dashes, finger for dits, and my brain isn't as young as it used to
be to do multitasking. Thus the question - does the Elecraft/Bencher
Hexkey actually perform better than the original, and thus make the
price worth adding to my gear? I'd really like to have more versatility
in sending, not worrying about knocking the contact points off their
mounts, which are conical points for hinges

Re: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?

2007-04-10 Thread Sandy W5TVW

Depends on what you want it for.

If you bare thinking about a new all-mode, all-band rig, I'd certainly 
choose the K2, 160 meter and SSB add-ons.  Maybe even the 100 watt model.


If you are interested in QRP, a pack rig, CW only, and you can cope with 
just having 40-15 (4 band) or changing two band cards, then I'd say the K1 
was right for you.


I have a K1 originally b ought with 4 band option which I setup for 
40/30/20/15 meters.  I have an extra two band RF board for 160/80 meters. 
Also have the KAT1 internal tuner.  If I did it all over again, I'd skip the 
KAT1 and purchase the external T-1 tuner as it has greater matching range. 
It is a really great rig.  I did not care for the internal battery option 
as it is a pain taking the batteries in and out for charging.  The smaller 
loudspeaker isn't potent enough for my old ears!


73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Gary D Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 or K1?


Hi, I've been reading many of the posts here as well as reading through 
the manuals on the Elecraft site.  I've been thinking about building 
either a K2 or K1.  I've read some of the magazine articles that state 
that the K2 is not a beginners kit and I have read other sources that 
state beginners have built the K2 with no problem.


The last time I built a kit was in the eighties.  I have no doubt about my 
soldering abilities and I know that isn't a problem.  I've been told on 
the air that if I'm going to build the K2 or K1 to go for the K2.  I would 
like to build the K2.  So, I would like some feed back on what you think. 
Has anyone here built the K2 as their first kit or Elecraft kit?


I really don't want to build the K1 first because, I don't want to spend 
the money for both rigs.  I know I could sell the K1 but, I don't want to 
be bothered with that.


Thanks,
Gary, N7HTS



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Re: [Elecraft] HF amp kits

2007-04-05 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I built an HF amplifier kit a couple of years ago.  The HF Packer amplifier. 
It was around $125.  All the parts were there and some things have to be 
done by the builder that normally are pre fabbed.  Drilling and tapping 
holes, placing parts in enclosures accurately.


The amplifier is fairly small and uses two low priced MOS Power FET 
transistors.  With about 2-3 watts of drive it will produce 35-40 watts of 
output.  Very nice filtering arrangement on the output, switchable froom 
160-10 meters.  Has an RF actuated changeover relay system and it is linear 
for SSB use.  My K1 drives it easily and quite well.


73,

Sandy W5TVW

Google HF packer for website and details.
- Original Message - 
From: David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HF amp kits


Just working from memory here, but wasn't there also a limit that the 
amateur could only build one such amp a year?


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Jim Wiley wrote:
The 15 db rule applies only to manufactured for sale amplifiers.  It does 
not apply to amplifiers that an individual ham builds for him or herself, 
particularly when a a kit is not involved..  Section 97.317 of the rules, 
which is where the 15  db rule appears, applies to the certification of 
external RF power amplifiers that a manufacturer offers for sale. 
Home-made amplifiers do not require certification.  They must still meet 
some standards, such as those involving purity of emissions (harmonics, 
for example) and of course must not be operated above 1500 watts PEP, but 
that's pretty much it.


I am unsure of how the rule applies to kits, but I think they would be 
considered a manufactured product if all the parts needed to complete 
the amplifier are contained, in the kit.  If, however, a kit contained 
only some of the parts, and could not in itself be assembled into a 
working amplifier without adding extra parts, then the certification rule 
probably  would not apply.


It would be perfectly legal for a ham to build a home-brew grid-driven 
amplifier that  could take  the 10 watt signal from his K2 and boost it 
to 1500 watts output.  Such an amplifier would have (roughly) 22 db of 
gain.   A pair of 4CX800 tubes could accomplish this, I think.   Remember 
also that the old Johnson Thunderbolt could be operated in grid-driven 
mode, and it had (still has, if you can find one) similar performance, 
using a pair of 4-400 tubes.



- Jim, KL7CC







Chris Kantarjiev wrote:



The Linear Amp kits seem to need a fair amount of drive. I've been
idly thinking about a linear that would allow me to drive it with
my barefoot K2 and get 600-800 watts out for CW.




The limit is 15 dB and is still in the requirements despite the  recent 
loosening of Part 97.  That should give something over 400  watts when 
driven by a K2. I don't recall whether the easily- modifiable rule is 
still there, so it may be possible to have an amp  with an attenuator on 
the front-end (I heard that one of the Tokyo  High Power amps does this, 
but haven't verified that).


73, Bob N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Independent S-Meter?

2007-03-12 Thread Sandy W5TVW
What I was referring to is the common circuits used in most receivers of 
olden days.  (Tube era)  Most receivers depended on the AGC level for signal 
strength indication.  At best a large approximation and some wishful 
thinking.  Not only do 50 microvolt (if that's your standard) S-9 levels 
vary from band to band, but also at the high and low ends of the bands as 
well.
I have dealt with Field strength meters where the S meter actually 
indicates microvolts per meter, and they go thru some rather careful 
procedures to make sure the receiver's gain is the same wherever the 
measurements are made.  I've never used the H-P instruments that are popular 
on the 500 Khz experimental band at present.
Anyway, the short of it is one can't depend on an S meter on a 
'communications receiver' to really be accurate.  No matter who makes the 
receiver generally.  Unless it is some special purpose device especially 
made for measuring the input levels.
One of the silliest ideas I have ever seen was when Bill Halligan's folks 
put that HUGE 4-1/2 S meter on the S-76 when they came out with it.  I 
personally thought that they'd have done better if they had just jeft the 
loudspeaker there and offered an external S meter.  The S-76 was a big 
improvement over the old S-40, but why that big meter?  Also calibrated in 
microvolts by the way!


73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 11:41 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] AGC Independent S-Meter?



Sandy,

As far as I know, there is no direct relationship between the strength of 
a

signal and receiver AGC.

My AD8307 power meter can measure signal strengths directly off an antenna
if called upon to do that, it goes down to -80 dBm (about S-8) with no 
other

amplification.  This is strictly a power meter, no AGC implied or
implemented - the output is the base 10 logarithm of the input signal.

All one must do is measure the strength of the received signal to drive an
S-meter - but it must be calibrated if it is used as an absolute 
measurement

device.

Yes, the implementation in most receivers derive the AGC voltage from the
same signal strength measurement circuits, so things get a bit mixed up, 
and

often appear as a 'chicken and egg' situation.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

Circuitrywise, an AGC/AVC free S-meter is an oxymoron!  Can't have one
without the other.
(snip)
73,
Sandy W5TVW


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Independent S-Meter?

2007-03-11 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Circuitrywise, an AGC/AVC free S-meter is an oxymoron!  Can't have one 
without the other.


I pay little attention to the S meter on my K1.  The old ear still one 
of the best indicators anyway.  Such things as a 199 signal is as possible 
as having a 519 signal!


I guess it strokes the ego of a 'phone operator to to get a 40 over 9 
report.  What difference does it make if the signal report is 5 by 9 + 40 db 
or 5 by 2?


Most CW ops I know don't depend or rely much on S meters anyway.  (Back to 
ears again!)

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AGC Independent S-Meter?


In a message dated 3/11/07 12:24:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

writes:



Anyone have any ideas for an AGC independent S-meter?


Here's what I've used for 40+ years:


Ears

--

I have never really understood the fascination with AGC and S-meters in 
ham
radio for CW. For AM voice, sure, and maybe SSB when the frequency is 
clear,

but when it comes to typical CW operation I don't use either.

I could see where a certain amount of delayed AGC would be useful as an
eardrum-saver, but the same effect can be had by a simple limiter.

IMHO, anyway.

73 de Jim, N2EY


**
AOL now offers free
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Re: [Elecraft] 160m activity?

2007-02-11 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Worked W5ESE on 1015 last night on 160!  Scott was running 5 watts.  If it 
hadn't been for the building QRN, I'd have copied him solid.  Not to mention 
DXers who ignored us and QRMed us as well.  Until recently 1800-1820 was 
fairly free from DXing.  Some of the newbies are beginning to remind me of 
the RTTY bunch on the higher bands, especially 40.  Keep outta 'digital' 
territory, but the whole band is ours during a RTTY contest!  QRP can be 
very challenging, especially on 160.  This makes it fun, but the DXers are 
beginning to run off the ragchewers, what few of them are left.  SSB splits 
have ruined 40 CW during SSB contests involving DX stations, and with 80 cut 
down to 100 khz. on CW, I'm afriad the same thing will happen there soon.
Hope to meet some of you just plain QSO guys on 160 one evening on CW. 
Ain't many of that kind of operator left.


72/73,
Sandy W5TVW

K1 s/n 1178 from 160-15 meters
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 160m activity?



On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 20:48:48 -0600, Randy Moore wrote:


I only hear people working DX.  All the CQs are
CQ DX and so far no one has answered my CQs.


Sadly, that's very much the nature of 160. Some call it the
gentlemen's band. I think a better name for it is the DX snobs
band. I'm running a KW to a decent antenna, and I call CQ a lot
(not CQ DX). I have no problem working across the country (or even
across the Pacific) during a contest, but getting someone to answer
a CQ for a casual contact can be tough.

Another reality, however, is that 160 is a tough place to work QRP.
Two reasons. Noise levels are high, and propagation is challenging.
My good friend and neighbor, N6WG (in Silicon Valley) plugs away at
contesting with his K2, including all the 160 contests. He has great
fun with it, but only because he takes his antenna system very
seriously. One of the good reasons for running power on 160 is to
get over the high noise levels. I've got an S1 noise level most of
the time. It's not uncommon for me to read a guy 579, but he can't
read me, because his noise level is S8.

73,

Jim Brown K9YC
Santa Cruz, CA



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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday

2007-02-08 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I did that also.  Old trick to retain spacers.  Still, I like 80 meters a 
lot and when the 160/80 2 band board is used, the tuner is virtually useless 
unless you just want a more accurate indication of output watts.  The T1 
tuner has a couple more elements and should cover a much wider range, 
especially on the two lowest bands.
When I built my K1, the T1 wasn't available and I opted for the KAT1.  It 
does a dynamite job in the field with temporary antennas on 40-15 meters. 
Wish it had the same matching range as the T1.  (But then, who works 160 and 
80 QRP except us 'hard core' QRPers?)


73,
Sandy W5TVW

- Original Message - 
From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday



Sandy W5TVW wrote:

I'd opt for the little external tuner (T1?) instead of the internal 
tuner. It would make changing the band boards simplier and easier


I did the simple mod of threading an elastic band through the KAT1 
spacers to retain them on the bolts (cut the ends short to avoid it 
sticking out of the ends and acting as an insulator), it works superbly 
and makes changing the band boards an easy task.


73 Dave, G4AON
K1 #1154

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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday

2007-02-07 Thread Sandy W5TVW
You will find the receiver supurb during heavy QRM situations like contests! 
Best QRP rig I ever owned.  I have 4 band board (40/30/20/15) and a 2 band 
160/80 meter board.  If I did it all over again, I'd opt for the little 
external tuner (T1?) instead of the internal tuner.  It would make changing 
the band boards simplier and easier.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday



K1 Serial Number 2305 operational on 2/6/07.
2-Band (2040)w/Antenna Tuner
Antenna: 30-ft long wire strung over tree branches.
First QRP Contact: W4IT (Steve)
From: Dallas, TX to Gray Court, SC
This little rig is A BLAST!



mail2web.com - Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on 
Microsoft®

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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday

2007-02-07 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I too tried the KBT1.  One minus was my hearing asn't that good anymore 
after years of working around jet aircraft and doing a lot of shooting under 
a range shed (before cheap ear protectors were available!  They were $125 or 
more then...early 60's)  Anyway the smaller speaker's output too low for me!
Another minus was the aggravation of getting the batteries in and out..  I 
opted for an external 8 cell AA holder for NiMH 2 A/H cells.  Also have a 
small pack of two 6 volt 3.5 A/H gel-cells that works great.
The internal KAT1 coupler isn't very good for 80 or 160 meters.  I use an 
external L coupler that is heavier but about the ame size as the K1! 
Don't do any portable 160/80 meter operation anyway as a rule.  I may try 
the T1 seperate coupler anyway sometime this year just for fun.


73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday



wa5pgl wrote:


K1 Serial Number 2305 operational on 2/6/07.
2-Band (2040)w/Antenna Tuner


That's 2130 K1 units since my number 175 arrived in November, 2000.  I 
ordered it in June, so I waited five months.  It was worth it.  I'm not 
all that fond of the monotony of stuffing resistors and capacitors on a 
PCB, so I bought the K1 in spite of it being a kit, rather than because of 
it.


Sandy wrote:

You will find the receiver supurb during heavy QRM situations like 
contests!

Best QRP rig I ever owned.


It's a real gem in the Elecraft line.  I know of no other QRP rig that I'd 
rather carry portable.



I have 4 band board (40/30/20/15) and a 2 band
160/80 meter board.


The roll-off of the elliptical low pass filters on the four-band filter 
board is much sharper and deeper than that of the very simple filters of 
the two-band board.  I've never seen any spurious-output specs for a 
four-band K1, but since the two-band K1 has the best figure for spurious 
output of any Elecraft rig, the four-band K1 can only be even better.  It 
has better performance than the two-band 40m/20m board, and twice the the 
available bands (including 15m, IMHO the best QRP band when open).  How 
could one beat that combination of *both* improved versatility and 
improved performance?



If I did it all over again, I'd opt for the little
external tuner (T1?) instead of the internal tuner.


I really like the internal tuner, even though currently mine has recently 
developed a yet un-diagnosed problem and now never returns a VSWR less 
than 9.99, even into a dummy load.  I tried the KBT1 for more than a year, 
but eventually discarded it.  I don't like sources of chemical leakage and 
outgassing next to printed circuits.


73,
Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] SKN...

2006-12-31 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Plan to be on SKN tonight.  Mostly 80 meters on or around 3546.5.  If it's 
quiet here will try also later in evening on 1815 khz on top band.
Will be running the Drake 2NT + 2B or the TCS-12.
73 to all,

Sandy W5TVW
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Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-27 Thread Sandy W5TVW
WARNING!
This same scheme (scam?) happened quite a few years ago.  Don't remember the 
name
of the device, but is was a black box type proprietary antenna coupler.
The price was rather high  ($300-400) and it was guaranteed flat SWR 
between 3-30 Mhz.  
SO-239 input and two standoff insulators with wing nuts (output).  Was said
to match a random wire or a balanced line dipole!  Someone finally
x-rayed one and it turned out to be a dummy load actually.  It was
enclosed in a cast aluminum Bud box and potted with some sort
of opaque epoxy if you took the lid off!
They didn't last too long, but long enough for the manufacturer to
make a bundle!  It was not guaranteed to radiate with high efficiency
but was guaranteed to have an input VSWR no greater than 2:1!
 BEWARE of ANY MAGIC DEVICE that makes these claims.
More than likely it is a large pile of bovine fecal matter that they
are feeding you!

No, I didn't buy one, but in some unusual installations it was
tried on some commercial marine limited coast station installations.
The results were very mediocre no matter what 'antenna' was tried.
Low SWRBUT!   Not much radiation!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna


| [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
| 
|  I would want a lot more info before spending any money.
|  
|  The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator 
|  with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint 
|  device.
|  
|  The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device?
| 
| Here's some more information (but no mention of what's in the magic 
| cylinder): http://www.hamradio.co.uk/pdf/Diamond/BB7V.pdf
| 
| However, it is possible to see that the radiator is a continuous 
| conductor.  Therefore, the counterpoise function must be provided by the 
| mast, coax shield, or lossy ground (depending on mounting).  This means 
| the antenna's performance would be highly dependent on mounting, and it 
| would be prone to RFI and RF-in-the-shack issues.
| 
| The antenna supposedly works from 3-30 MHz with SWR less than 2:1.  The 
| SWR curve shown is suspiciously similar to that of a resistively loaded 
| antenna.  Such antennas can be useful in certain circumstances (BW 
| makes several versions), but the efficiency can be quite low on 
| frequencies where the impedance of the radiating part is high or 
| reactive.  The BW antennas are well designed and relatively large; even 
| so, the efficiency is significantly below that of a dipole.
| 
| A 22-foot vertical without top loading will be inefficient on 7 MHz (it 
| will be a dummy load on 3.5), especially without a decent counterpoise.
| 
| Even if one only has room for a 22-foot vertical there are lots of 
| better choices.
| 
| I agree with Jim.  Put up a dipole and spend the leftover $395 on beer.
| -- 
| 73,
| Vic, K2VCO
| Fresno CA
| http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-27 Thread Sandy W5TVW
My usual antenna on a quick setup afield is a 33' vertical wire hoisted by an 
MFJ-1910 33'
fibreglass telescopic pole.  This wih a K1 and KAT1 internal tuner.  It will 
tune with no radials
but the performance is lousy.  Add one 33' radial and it gets much, much 
better.  Add TWO 33'
radials and much better yet.  If I add two more (a total of four 33' radials 
and it improves more
yet but not a large change.  If I add more, hardly notice any change at all for 
the most part.  All
radials out of #24 hookup wire and laid on the ground.  This for 40 thru 15 
meter operation.  For 80
meter use a 66' antenna, 33' vertical and the rest to a nearby tree limb from 
top of the support
mast.  Sort of an inverted L.  This with 2-4 radials 66' long.  It works 
but isn't the best I
could do with a better antenna.
My trials of whips and short verticals has been dismal.  They will work but 
somewhat poorly so
say the least.  The MFJ pole and 33' wires seem to be the best setup especially 
in places where you
have trouble finding supports like the middle of a parking lot or field!  It 
won't work where there
is a lot of 'foot traffic' or kids as they will constantly be fouling the 
radials!!
Tried all sorts of loading schemes with whips from 4' to 15' and results fair 
on higher bands
(15/20) but very marginal on 40 or lower.
also tried shortened loaded dipoles and again it works but poorly.  
Sometimes you get lucky.

Just my 2 cents worth on portable radiators when you are QRP afield.

73 to all,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna


| Oh yee of little faith, on non-counterpoise HF
| Verticals!   Some of those mentioned are real
| junkers.
|
| Back to subject - what type of ATTIC ANTENNAS are
| good, for us living in restricted communities (no
| antennas) - with attics?
|
| BW makes a Folded Dipole, 7-30mhz, 45 feet long -
| with supposed flat swr?  Like $245.  Our attic antenna
| needs to be pretty much left by itself - no trips up
| there to change frequencies.  And 40 thru 10 would
| be nice.
|
| I'm suprised no-one mentioned the performance of
| that octagonal sheet metal HF antenna that is
| always advertised in QST.
|
| I guess I could get my old ARRL Antenna Book out,
| and build a trap dipole for the attic ..
| Or stick a Buddipole up there.
|
| ... Stealth 100W
| Fred
| N3CSY
|
|
|
| 

| Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New 
Yahoo.com
| (http://www.yahoo.com/preview)
|
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Re: [Elecraft] 80 m CW and Digital Operation

2006-10-17 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Firstly, I want to state I do not imply that the RTTY bunch has run away 
with 40 meters.  All in all, they have, along with the other digital modes,
pretty much stayed within the sub band/band plan Gentlemen's
Agreement for the appropriate emissions except for contest time when
almost everyone goes bonkers.  Someone else took up my flag in
another post somewhere recently about weekenders who have no place
to make casual QSO's on contest weekends.  More on that later.

I am glad someone is recognizing that separation of modes purely by
bandwidth, appears to have merit or is a solution to a potential
interference problem, is really not the answer.  Some digital modes
can compact a very large numbers of QSO's into a very narrow
space, while other do not.  PSK is an example of the cramming of 
stations every 100-200Hz is viable.  If one PACTOR station comes on
in the 3-4 Khz most PSK stations operate it can cause havoc!  One strong
PACTOR or MFSK station can raise all sorts of hell in PSK space
or CW space.  This is greatly compounded by a few who totally ignore
any mode except the one they are using.  Thank goodness it isn't the
norm!  It does come across to newbies in amateur radio that this
practice is OK to some I'm sure, but should be discouraged.  
Separation of digital and CW is essential if we are all going to live together
and have any harmony at all, or maintain communications instead
of bedlam.  Further, we must also maintain separation of narrow band
digital modes (PSK for example) and wider digital modes (PACTOR and
wider modes).  Any AUTOMATIC or ROBOT internet access stations
should be limited to a very small chunk of spectrum, especially those
using proprietary systems.  In my humble opinion, HF access to 
internet via Amateur Radio is opening up a very large can of worms
that will eventually come back to bite us in our posteriors!  There IS
a radio service for this via the MARISAT satellite system to do this for
you rich yachtsmen out there.  It should not be via Amateur Radio.

SSB/digital radiotelephony will continue to demand more spectrum space
in the future, no doubt, but room must be maintained for older modes
as well.  Especially for last ditch emergency and relief operations as
well as simple old fashioned ragchewing.  

In keeping with efforts to not monopolize spectrum space, a lot of
contests now specify a band of frequencies to be used during these 
contests.  This allows some space for casual QSO's for those who do
not wish to operate a particular contest, but still would like to QSO
friends, etc.  On contest weekends.  This procedure is practically
impossible to maintain during the very large contests like CQ WWDX,
ARRL DX, Sweepstakes, etc.  It would be nice to have a very small
area (5 khz on CW or Digital bands, 10 khz on SSB/voice mode bands)
reserved for this purpose?  Something to think about when designing
a band plan.  

We all will have to work at it to make smaller amounts of spectrum space
to all concerned.  Rest assured the FCC these days doesn't give a damn
about whatever QRM exists as long as it isn't interfering with another
radio service under their jurisdiction and we stay within our assigned
pieces of the spectrum.  If we do not plan well, none of us will be able
to pursue viable communications, especially in the HF spectrum as more
people join our ranks.

Just some thoughts for what they are worth, to keep our hobby alive and
well in the future.

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80 m CW and Digital Operation


| Sandy W5TVW wrote:
| 
|   Some segregation is almost demanded if the CW/digital operations
|   are combined in a 100 khz. sub-band, no matter where it happens
|   to be.  This is created by the fact neither mode user, in many
|   instances, is able to 'decode' the other's emission.
| 
| True, but I'm somewhat more troubled by the lack of discussion, concern, 
| and formal comments on this issue regarding the ARRL's Regulation by 
| Bandwidth petition now before the FCC (RM-11036).  I think the comment 
| period has closed, unfortunately.  You can find it and what comments 
| that have been filed at the FCC's website.  If you want a copy of mine, 
| email me direct.  For the record, I am a long term member of the ARRL, 
| will remain so, and nearly always find myself in support of its actions 
| before the FCC.  In this case, I am most assuredly *not*.
| 
| Just because two emissions have similar bandwidths does *not* imply that 
| they can operationally coexist in the same spectrum, for a number of 
| reasons.  Sandy has pointed out one of them.  It now appears that, for 
| totally different reasons and in response to a totally different 
| petition, the FCC has given us a real live laboratory to watch this happen.
| 
| Beware what you ask for, you might just get it, although

Re: [Elecraft] 135 ft flat top antennas, again, ad infinitum

2006-10-03 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I would strongly warn everyone who uses this method of feeding the centerfed
tuned feeder dipole about a problem with this.  Let me start by saying I have
done it and still do it with lowered powered rigs (under 100 watts).
There IS a danger, that of overheating the 4:1 balun and losses in the balun
( or even destruction!) under some conditions.
Most baluns want to see a relatively reactance free impedance transformation.
Also one which is close to the transformation ratio (commonly 1:1 or 4:1)
I use a 135' dipole at 50' with about 100 feet of 450 ohm line.  The impedances
presented to the generator are usually not (in my case) a 4:1 ratio or have
a lot of inductive or capacitive reactance on some bands.  Broadband baluns
don't like this condition and when higher powers are used,the baluns will
cause losses and/or overheat under these conditions.  After playing with
baluns for quite a number of years, I decided to try the old fashioned
balanced line antenna tuner configuration instead of the T network
high pass transmatch (most commonly available tuner) and a 4:1 or a 1:1
broadband balun.  Yes, the balun WILL work under a lot of conditions
but not really well.  Only if the transformation ratio is in the ballpark
or a high reactance condition does not exist and the feed point presented
to the output end of the balun.
A balun is no cure all or simple solution for a proper matching network,
or the proper network for matching an unbalanced 50 ohm transmitter
to a tuned feeder type dipole.  I repeat: It WILL work or appear to work
under a lot of circumstances, but often times is an inefficient way of
doing things.  One quickly finds out about this when using higher powers
and when the conditions are not within the normal parameters of the
balun.
I repeat again, I have done this many times, but I usually cringe at doing it
because of the reasons stated.  If you are running QRP, you want every
microwatt you can muster into the ether to be radiated, not thrown
away as heat.  Ditto for high powers, except at kilowatt levels, sometime
improper devices will burn and smoke or at least get very hot.  Why throw
the power away?

My two penny's worth.

73,
Sandy W5TVW

- Original Message - 
From: George [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 3:23 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] 135 ft flat top antennas, again, ad infinitum


| My 2 cents worth is:  Theory is one thing and actuality is another thing.   I 
use a 130 ft
inverted vee, fed with about 55 ft of 450 ohm ladder line.  The apex of the vee 
is about 65 ft up.
The ladder line stops at the eave of my house, just outside the shack, where I 
use a 4:1 balun.
From the balun to the homebrew tuner, I use a 7 or 8 ft piece of RG 213.  It 
works FB on all bands
from 80-10 m, including 30 m, and is absolutely the best all band wire antenna 
I have used in my 51
yrs of hamming.  It works especially well on 75 and 80 m.  It would possibly 
work even better if I
broke up (with insulators) the guy wire which is almost parallel to one leg of 
the vee.  Also, the
antenna is surrounded by several trees which are 15-25 ft higher than the 
antenna.  I guess the
moral to this is, don't let theory stop you from trying stuff.
|
| 73, N4ym
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO range

2006-09-30 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I built mine originally for 80 khz.  With the bands changing and wanting 
coverage past 7080 on 40
meters, I redid mine for 150 Khz.  It is a bit toucher to tune now but much 
better coverage.  I have
a 2 band card I built for 160 and 80 meters which resides in my K1 with the 
coming of good
conditions on 160.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Larry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 VFO range


| I am building the K1 with the 4 band filter board. I am at the step
| where I must decide which VFO range to choose, 150 kHz or 80 kHz. I am
| new to HF and don't have the experience to make an educated choice here.
| I would like to hear from those who have built this receiver and why
| they made the choice they did.
|
| I have tried searching the archives but for some reason I am not getting
| any hits.
|
| Thanks for your replies,
|
| Larry
| KB5DXY
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Re: [Elecraft] Dumb K1 Question

2006-07-25 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Problem is:  the K1 is offset for lower sideband so you will get garbles on 
17 meters!
You'd get the same on 20 if you could tune that high.

The K1 is primarily a CW only rig.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
 K1  #1178
- Original Message - 
From: Dr. Dan Swartling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 12:54 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Dumb K1 Question


| Okay, K1 # is alive and well! and I have installed the 4 band module 
| wired for 40, 30, 20 and 17. I also built a 2 band module for 80 and 15.
| 
| I was just playing with it and it receives very well on all 4 bands, but 
| when I tuned in some 17m SSB sigs I couldn't quite get them in clearly, so 
| I looked for a button to push to change sidebands and can't find one. So, 
| is the K1 really a CW only rig or did I miss something in the menus? I 
| really like it, and it has that cute factor going for it, but it would be 
| nice to tune in SSB on 17m if I can. If not, oh well...
| 
| Dan
| WB4NMR
| 
| -
| KX1 #1507
| K1   #
| K2  #  
| 
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| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with K1

2006-07-11 Thread Sandy W5TVW
You will have to do one of two things:
Obviously your K1 is setup for 80 khz of VFO range.

You will have to set it up for 150 khz. of VFO rangeOR.change the band 
crystal.
If you assembled it yourself, you should have a spare crystal for the 30 
meter band to do that.
It will then tune from 10.1 to about 10.180 instead of 10.0-10.080 mhz.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Paul Gates, KD3JF [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Help with K1


| I need help with my K1. I did not realize that my
| 30 meter band was set up for 10.0 instead of
| 10.1. I checked the manual and it says:
|
| To select B1 or B2 and hold display button and
| select 10.0 or 10.1.
|
| That does not seemingly work for me. When I hold
| display button nothing happens so I do not see
| the option of selecting 10.1.
|
| Any help will be appreciated. I have been using
| the KX1 on 30 and did not realize I could not
| tune to 10.119 on the K1.
|
| Paul, KD3JF
| Glen Burnie, MD
| FM19qd (Map Grid Square)
|
|
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day at Home

2006-06-25 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I made about 100 contacts with around 3-4 hours of operating the K1 on a 135' 
dipole 
fed with 450 ohm line.  80/40/20 and 15.  Worked about 2/3rds of the ARRL 
sections.
73,
Sandy W5TVW

- Original Message - 
From: John Meade [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Field Day at Home


| I used the K2 at 5W with either the built-in battery or the Radio Shack 
| Power-Up system. Conditions weren't that great, but most people could hear 
| me OK.  I made QSO's on 80, 40, 20, 15, and a few on 10. It's nice having 
| all bands in one little box.
| 
| Tnx to all who strained their ears to copy me.
| 
| 72,  John W2XS 
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?

2006-06-22 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I too have the K1 and like it very much.  It is the 4 band version with a
KAT1 tuner added.  Also have a 2 band board that covers 160 and 80 meters.
Have done the backlighting modification and this was well worth
the effort!.
I too have an HFPacker amp I built.  It is an absolutely dynamite
pair of shoes
for the K1!  My only complaint is the hang time on the RF actuated T/R switch
is too long.  No good for contest use!  I tried it on the ARRL 160 meter 
contest last
year.  It's OK for casual QSO's but delay too long for CW.  One day I will get
that fixed.
Some day in the future, I'd like to build the K2, probably the QRP version.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?


| I have a K1 (bought someone else's) and a KX1 (built it, added KXB3080 this 
spring).
|
| I won't part with either, they do different stuff.
|
| The K1 is my all-time favorite radio, ever.
|
| Before I had Elecraft rigs, I had a Wilderness Sierra that I built -- that 
was my favorite before
my K1. The K1 reminds me a little of the Sierra, but is a much more civilized 
rig. I just built an
HF Packer amp, and the K1+amp combination is awesome.
|
| It's a tough choice, but I really don't think you can go wrong.
|
| 73,
| Mike N2HTT
| K1 s/n 566
| KX1 s/n 98
|
|
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Re: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules

2006-06-15 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
The way the K1 RF boards are designed, the 4 band one won't work on 80/40/30/20!
I have my 4 band board on 40/30/20/15 and an additional 2 band board for 160/80.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Krister Eriksson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules


| Hi,
| I have ordered one K1-4 plus KFL1-2, should soon arrive here in SM.
|
| I have choosen 40/30/20/17 mtrs in k1-4 and 80/15 on KFL1-2 board and
| will probably build this way, but i just wondering about doing this way:
| 80/40/30/20 K1-4 and 17/15 on KFL1-2, is that possible with the existing
| parts included in kit?
|
| By this way i will not need to swap boards when changing between 40 and
| 80 mtrs..
|
| 73 / SM5KRI Chris
| -- 
| Krister Eriksson
| Ringduvegatan 23
| 724 70 Västerås
|
| [Hamradio: SM5KRI]
| [ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ]
|
|
| -- 
| SM5KRI
| Krister Eriksson
| [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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|
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Re: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles

2006-06-12 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
I have been very pleased with my MFJ 33' mast.  Easy to setup and takedown.
Still looking for a light and secure base for it.
I presently use a garden claw hand tiller stuck in the ground and the mast 
held in place with a
couple of bungee straps wrapped around mast and tiller staff.
Antenna is usually a 33' wire with 3-4 33' wire ground radial counterpoises 
laid on ground.  This
with a K1.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 8:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles


| Also consider the DK9SQ telescoping 33 ft mast,
| available from Kanga U.S.
|
| http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/dk9sq/mast.htm
|
| 73,
|
| Ken Alexander
| VE3HLS
|
|
|
| --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
|
|  Tom and all,
| 
|  I don't know about the price comparison, but another
|  source is The Mast
|  Company - http://www.tmastco.com/ .
| 
|  73,
|  Don W3FPR
| 
| 
|   -Original Message-
|  
|   A while back, several folks posted links to a
|  number of telescoping
|   fiberglas pole sites.
|  
|   I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering
|  their 32' poles
|   (black or orange) for $54.
|  
|   I thought someone had found similar poles for a
|  bit less than the
|   Jackite price, however I may be in error here.
|  
|   The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be
|  reinforced in the
|   placed which would normally require such
|  reinforcement.
|  
|   I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric
|  company. They failed
|   the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work
|  exceptionally well for
|   general antenna support use (particularly during
|  FD), BUT they're a
|   bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter
|  than I'd like to
|   have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the
|  car. Something
|   slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such
|  trips.
|  
|   If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of
|  heavy-duty
|   telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post
|  them to the reflector
|   (preferred) or drop a note to me direct.
|  
|   Hope to order something yet this coming week.
|  
|   Thansk,
|  
|   Tom Hammond   N0SS
|  
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Binaural CW Reception

2006-05-25 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Speaking of binaural reception.  In this sense it is using a setup 
that is able to put the lower sideband information in the left ear 
and upper sideband information in the right ear.  As one tunes 
thru a signal (SSB, or AM or CW with a product detector) it 
will appear to come from one side , go thru your head and go 
out the other ear!  Some very interesting effects occur in so 
doing.  If you have say an AM signal and it is phase locked 
to zero beat (true exalted carrier reception), you can very 
easily hear the selective fading in each sideband independently!  
One also gets a sense about which way to tune to make the 
signal appear in the right place.  It also allows you hear which 
side of zero beat the signal is on.
All these effects could be heard using an old General Electric 
YRS-1 SSB adapter, which was modified to allow ISB reception 
with stereo headphones.  ISB reception is REALLY interesting and 
weird, hearing two programs at once!  I don't know if there is any 
ISB feeders for the SWBC stations anymore, but there used to be.  
This way one channel could relay two separate programs at once 
on a single RF channel.  Probably redundant now as I'm sure 
whatever is relayed now is via satellite link!
This is just a comment in case someone, somewhere wanted to 
experiment with ISB reception using an ancient GE YRS-1 unit.


73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Jerry Volpe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 1:35 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Binaural CW Reception


| I have done a couple of Binaural CW reception projects and found the
| results very appealing. Let me begin  by sharing a few thoughts:
| 
| 1. With binaural reception you normally would NOT use tight CW
| bandwidths as the object is to allow more audible information to
| be processed by our brain. I think that you would want at least 600Hz or
| greater. I typically use a 1000Hz type filter or wider but generally
| nothing tighter. A stereo 'soundscape' is created within your head with
| the primary signal (the one centered in the Binaural filter) appearing
| in the center of your head, and the ones higher in pitch progressively
| off to one side and the ones lower in pitch off to the other side.
| 2. Due to the sound dividing by frequency you notice only the lower
| frequency background 'noise' component in one ear and the higher
| frequency component in the other. It is surprising how much LESS in
| intensity the noise is overall than what it was with combined energy to
| both ears. This alone is worth the price of admission.
| 3. Many of today's CW operators have not trained themselves to use their
| own brain as a CW filter and instead rely on very sharp band-pass
| filters for single-signal reception. Binaural CW reception provides
| multiple signals which many find too confusing.
| 4. Binaural CW reception should be great for NET, roundtable, and even
| contesting where you often need to hear many stations on slightly
| different frequencies.
| 
| My first project was a stand-alone Binaural CW filter using a pair of OP
| Amp ICs. Basically, the audio input passed into both a low pass filter
| and a high pass filter with the low and high frequency cutoffs at the
| desired center frequency 700 Hz for example. The output of the each
| filter was further amplified (as needed) and then applied to either
| stereo speakers or to stereo headphones.
| PRO: Small package. Simple approach. Low cost. Easy to build. Works well
| enough for a single design cross-over frequency.
| CON: I could have used better quality OP Amps for lower distortion. The
| ones I got were from Radio Shack (sigh). Still not bad. Can't change
| cross-over frequency. This is OK if your receiver has a fixed CW offset.
| Myself, I like to change my offset to minimize long term listening
| fatigue. But then again only a couple of my transceivers allow for
| that most don't. Another CON was the fact that I had to build this
| filter. It was amazing to me how many hams were interested in the
| project (I posted the info on the Ten-Tec reflector last year) but were
| unwilling or unable to assemble a project without a kit.
| 
| I think it would be wise to use two pass-band filters rather than a
| low-pass and a high-pass configuration. That way you can also take away
| the unnecessary lows... say below 300 Hz and the unnecessary highs
| perhaps over 1500 Hz. These filters should not have sharp slopes as that
| will add ringing.
| 
| My second project began with the following in mind:
| 1. Using band-pass filters rather than low-pass and high-pass.
| 2. Include the ability to move the combined filter cross-over for
| different CW offsets.
| 3. Get the lowest distortion possible in the filtering.
| 4. Use something commercially available rather than 'build your own'.
| 
| My first thought was to obtain two SCAF audio filters (highly
| programmable as far as band-pass characteristics, no ringing, low

Re: [Elecraft] Proud new owner of K1 #292

2006-05-24 Thread Sandy W5TVW
You might be better off building a 160/80 and then a 30/17, or 
30/15 board.  The 10 meter band is still in some limbo stages I think.
Just be aware that it's not wise to have two boards with the same band
(like an 80/40 and 40/20 board as the CPU can only remember one 
corrective offset per band.)  
I've been tickled pink with my K1.  Have 160/80 then the 4 band 
40/30/20/15.  Thinking of a 17/10 meter board in future once the
bugs outta the 10 meter modification.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
K1 #1178
- Original Message - 
From: JT Croteau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 3:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Proud new owner of K1 #292


| I am officially the proud new owner of K1-2 Serial #292 with KAT1 and
| 40/20 meters purchased from K5MO.  Very smooth transaction with John,
| very reputable guy to deal with.
| 
| I also have parts on order from Elecraft to add a couple more band
| modules.  The K1 was designed as a 2-band rig and I plan on keeping it
| that way.  I'm positive the 4-band filter board works fine as designed
| by Wayne and Co. but I'm not partial to all the component sharing.
| I'm probably going to build an 80/40 board, a 20/15 board, and a 30/17
| board.  I may then rebuild my board and see if I can get 160M and/or
| 10M to work as some others have.
| 
| As this is a pretty low serial number, I'm off to crack open the K1
| and see if the updates and latest firmwares have been applied.
| 
| 72 de JT, W6FO
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| 
| 
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

2006-05-23 Thread Sandy W5TVW
My answer would be:  Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the job 
much better.  They are
as cheap as 6146's now.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas


|
| On May 22, 2006, at 8:35 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:
|
|  Anyone out there - think a 200Watt PEP tube
|  6146 amplifier - would cut it with a K2?
|  Why?  Why not?
|
| You gonna run four tubes to get 200 watt PEP out?
|
| I've been through this, Fred. 6146's were great in their day, but
| that day has passed. Get the KPA100 and mount it in an EC2 case.
| There's your external amplifier.
|
| Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
|  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
|
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|
|
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.6.1/344 - Release Date: 5/19/2006
|
|

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Re: [Elecraft] QRP Antenna anyone?

2006-05-15 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Must be nice to have the change to spend on THAT kind of antenna!!!.

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 12:54 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP Antenna anyone?


| Backpackable, easy to setup ;o)
| 
| http://www.pannondxc.hu/hamnews/hu/csoda/yagi80m5ele.jpg
| 
| 73,
| Julius
| n2wn
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| 
| 
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 s/n 1031 has new home

2006-05-13 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Would be a bit of a problem switching between the 2 band board and the 4 band 
board.  Space is
somewhat at a premium inside the K1, especially if you have an autotuner (KAT1) 
installed.
These two boards
are piggy-backed above the main PCB.  Could possibly be done with some very 
custom switching boards
maybe installed on top cover.  Interconnect would probably have to be via 
ribbon cables from 2 and 4
band PCB's to switching board.  Also comes the problem of activating the 
actual switching
process.
Incorporate it into CPU chip?  Just add a seperate 2/4 band pcb switch on rear 
apron somewhere?
Even with this, each time it is switched, you would have to reassign bands 
again to bands 1 and
2.
It would be nice not to have to swap band boards but I'll bet the mod 
would be quite involved.

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Petr Ouředník [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 5:02 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 s/n 1031 has new home


| Dears,
|
| I am happy to throw up that K1-4 s/n 1031 has the new home in Czech Republic. 
Little baby arrived
safely today morning and should be QRV 40/30/20/15m including the KAT1 and KNB1.
|
| Also I would like to many thanks to all who sent me info how to build the 
160m band module
specially to Don for complete instructions. I will try to make it asap to be 
able to work on my
lovely TOP band soon.
|
| The most interesting idea now for me is how to implement another 2-bands nor 
4-bands module
permanently  means to not need swapping the boards when will decide for other 
bands. I am totally
confused with the band management in K1 but what could be the problem except 
the enough place
inside? Does anybody thought about that please?
|
| I will be happy to make QSO with other K-syndrom infected folks.
|
| 72,
|
| OK1RP
| Petr Ouředník
| 00420608230010 (private)
| [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| www.qsl.net/ok1rp
|
| K1 #1031 (40-15m)
| SW20+
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|
|
| -- 
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/336 - Release Date: 5/10/2006
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Re: CW Speed (RE: [Elecraft] QSK Redux)

2006-05-09 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I'd say a majority of the people working REAL high speed are 
doing it with keyboards and readers.  (What's the point in that
when there is PSK31 to do the same job?)
A few hams out there can skip along at 30-40 WPM but they are in the 
minority by far.  Contesters don't count as they are locked into a set 
format and not much information is actually exchanged except for 
the required data.  Really good high speed telegraphers are rather
scarce.  (I'm speaking of those using straight keys or bugs, or 
sideswiper keys).

73,
Sandy W5TVW

(I still 'plod along at 20-25 wpm most of the time.)
- Original Message - 
From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: CW Speed (RE: [Elecraft] QSK Redux)


| 
| -Original Message-
| Ouch,
|  
| 25 wpm is cw with training wheels.  In the real world people don't send
| that slow.  Bummer.
| 
| --
|  
| Ouch indeed :-).  My fastest reliable speed ever is about 25 wpm.  It's
| almost embarrassing to say I've been 90% CW for 15 yrs and my speed has
| yet to get much over 20.  I guess I'm just not serious enough about it.
| 
| But, I have a lot of fun with the straight key (SKCC) working stations
| at 15 wpm +/-.  We can get beyond RST/OP/QTH and actually talk to each
| other.
| 
| - Keith KD1E -
| - K2 5411 -
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 on 160m ?

2006-05-07 Thread Sandy W5TVW
This is VERY easy to do.  Elecraft has all the parts except the band crystal.
I built an 80/160 meter board and it works exceptionally well.  I'm sure the 
original person who did
the mod will come forward and give you details.
If not, I'll look it up in my archives.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Petr Ouředník [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 7:57 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 on 160m ?


| Dears,
|
| as I have chance to buy K1-4 and I am 160m enthusiast I am thinking about 
possibility to add 160m
band filter module to K1. Does somebody thought about it already or even added 
160m successfully
please? Is there any system problem to add this band?
|
| Thank You for tips nor tricks,
|
| 73,
|
| OK1RP
| Petr Ouředník
| 00420608230010 (private)
| [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| www.qsl.net/ok1rp
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|
|
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-04-18 Thread Sandy W5TVW
AMEN!  I can't agree more with Mike!  Why get sloppy and why some guys trying
to run their keyers at 40 WPM?  Why send your callsign just once 
on the initial call?  Twice should be a matter of minimums,
 how does the sender know his signal is BOOMING in or in the clear?  
You just have to ask him to repeat, which RUINS the speed 
advantage, or wastes the time he's trying to save!  
E-S-P-E-C-I-A-L-L-Y during a QRP contest!  Won't people
EVER learn?

Just how much time does sending a DE or a K take?
73,
Sandy W5TVW


- Original Message - 
From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT


| 
| On Feb 8, 2006, at 9:07 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
| 
|  IMHO, this practice [dropping DE and K prosigns in contests]
|  reflects badly on the contester (on his Morse
|  professionalism, if you will).  Unfortunately, it also becomes  
|  for many a
|  bad habit carried over into routine operation.  We're only talking  
|  about
|  taking a *small* additional fraction of a second to send a complete  
|  and
|  proper exchange.
| 
| My point is that the extra prosigns aren't necessary in this case.  
| The contesters are already sending exchanges that conform to known  
| patterns -- the overhead isn't needed.
| 
|In reality, most contest time and energy is utilized
|  sending unanswered calls over and over and over and over.
| 
| But during the time that there are responders to those CQs, working  
| the callers quickly and efficiently can make a huge difference in  
| score. If several callers are there at the same time, they may not  
| stick around if the operator isn't super-efficient.
| 
|  It is unfortunate that contest and DX rules in general don't mandate
|  complete call sign exchanges by both stations, each containing both  
|  station
|  call signs along with the proper prosigns.
| 
| There are some contests which dictate the sending of both callsigns  
| -- the NA Sprint is one.
| 
|That would certainly be more
|  appropriate than the totally perfunctory 599 report usually sent  
|  with each
|  exchange.
| 
| Not all contests use a 599 report. Many have much more interesting  
| exchanges. NAQP, for example, uses the Name and State, Province or  
| Country.
| 
| Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
|  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
| 
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| 
| 
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/309 - Release Date: 4/11/2006
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-04-18 Thread Sandy W5TVW
We've been thru this before gentlemen.

In a VERY busy contest, there ain't no such thing as a single frequency
There is signals every 20-50 Hz!  The BIG 160 meter contests are 
examples of this.  If you are a DXer, how many times have you succeeded
with only a 'single' call in a big pileup?  You may have to send your call
a bunch of times,and/or be running a bunch of power.  If someone calls me
just a single time and I send QRZ, I expect the other chap to have
enough sense to send his call at least 2-3 times.  Usually because static is the
culprit or two or more callers QRMing each other.  Either way you gotta 
repeat the call. 
In a contest, the highly abbreviated procedures are commonplace,
but I still say it is lazyness or stupidity to apply the same logic to
an answer to an everyday CQ call.  Whoever isn't familiar with
the protocol, it would behoove him to certainly learn it.
What's the problem with that?  It's just simple manners, like for example;  
Like learning not to pass gas loudly in church or on a crowded bus.
(to cite a rather crude, but typical situation)  If ARRL no longer
teaches good operating skills, find out from an old timer, what they
are.
Sorry for the tirade, but I feel very strongly about this and think it a
VERY large mistake that ARRL saw fit to take this section out of the
Handbook.  Maybe its because there are more LIDS than A1
operators in Newington now?
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT


| 
| On Feb 8, 2006, at 10:49 AM, Sandy W5TVW wrote:
| 
|  | However, these days, operating zero-beat on a single frequency, the
|  | long call is just a waste of time. You call CQ DE W5TVW K. I'll
|  | answer AA4LR on the same frequency. Where's the confusion?
| 
|  Perhaps no confusion to you, the sending operator, but a  
|  possible bit
|  of confusion to the operator who called CQ!
| 
| I and many others have THOUSANDS of successful CW QSOs using these  
| techniques.
| 
|   Firstly, let's assume you have imperfect propagation conditions:  
|  fading, static,
|  whatever.  You might miss my call or get it confused if I sent it  
|  just once.
| 
| On 160m and sometimes 80m, perhaps I'll double the call to AA4LR AA4LR.
| 
| If you only get part of it, you'll send the part you got: 4LR. I'll  
| respond with my full call again: AA4LR AA4LR. The more times we  
| repeat this, the more times I'll repeat my call.
| 
|  Anything else might likely lead to asking
|  you to repeat your callsign, which takes up even more time?
| 
| The point is, especially in a contest, the vast majority of the time,  
| the first call works. And this protocol works well when there are  
| multiple callers, too.
| 
|  Just a one time sent callsign IS bad operating practice and  
|  operating manners.
| 
| Some of the very best operators I know are contesters, and they ALL  
| do this. It can't possibly be a bad practice.
| 
|  Contest conditions are usually frantic, crowded and many times  
|  plain RUDE.
| 
| Well, that's true.
| 
|  Such things as sections/states and unique member
|  numbers are exchanged.  In the peak of the QRM/QSB I usually always
|  send State and my number TWICE.
| 
| This is kinda a QRP mentality -- I'm weak and in the noise, I  
| better be redundant. That's not always so. Low power and QRP  
| stations can have formidable and readable signals, given reasonable  
| antennas and fair to good conditions.
| 
| In some cases, such redundancy may be helpful, like on 160m. But,  
| mostly, it just wastes time.
| 
|  Otherwise, you
|  have to ask for a repeat which wastes more time.
| 
| Fills can be done quickly and efficiently, too.
| 
|  | The old Novice Accent advice was to do 3x3x3 - CQ CQ CQ DE W1ABC
|  | W1ABC W1ABC repeated three times. Again, that was with a lot of guys
|  | still rock-bound. These days, a single 3x3 with a few seconds of
|  | listening seems more appropriate.
|  |
|  I agree LOONG CQ calls or doing a 3 X 3 format three times
|  IS...repeat IS a waste of time and overkill.  Do the 3 X 3 and wait
|  15-60 seconds and repeat the call.
| 
| We do agree on this!
| 
|We still have a few people who
|  have vintage transmitters that are crystal controlled, but sadly
|  very few people who tune around, even a couple of kHz. with
|  the RIT control.
| 
| Or open up the filter bandwidth, at least.
| 
|  Anyway, the sum of it is, nobody seems like they are teaching ANY
|  really good operating practices anymore.
| 
| And we agree here, too.
| 
| 
| Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
|  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
| 
| 
| 
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database

Re: [Elecraft] I'm In!!!/palm paddles

2006-04-14 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I tried all sorts of things and the Palm mini paddle is great little paddle.
It ain't cheap, but iit IS GOOD!

I had a Bulldog paddle I used and liked very much, but it's life isn't
very long!  Wore it out too fast so didn't get another one!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] I'm In!!!/palm paddles


| After months of reading the list and one post, I jumped in.
| Just ordered a K1-4 w/atu. Seems like if you want a rig that doesn't consider 
cw an oh, by the
way, it can do that as well option, it narrows it down to Elecraft and 
Ten-Tec. That is where
customer support seems to take over and narrow it down to Elecraft. The ft-817 
was my 3rd choice in
a qrp portable, (kx1 being my 2nd), but the obvious cw first concept of 
Elecraft, combined with
the level of technical discussion on the reflector (including responses from 
the lead gurus) made it
a no brainer.
| Is there any experiences with the Palm Radio mini paddles? any other ideas 
for a set of portable
friendly paddles?
| Thanks,
| Pete
| wd4lst
|
|
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|
|
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/309 - Release Date: 4/11/2006
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO frequency range change

2006-04-05 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Irecently changed my K1's VFO range.  Now I can reach 7150 on 40 meters.
On 80 (with my 2 band 160/80 meter RF board) I get up to around 3673.
I also tried the 1 mf cap in AGC circuit with no results.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 VFO frequency range change


| I changed the VFO frequency range capacitor to 120 pf and now have a 178 khz
| tuning range.  Since I only need 125 khz to reach the SKCC frequency  of
| 7120 khz, I may try a 100 pf capacitor.  I would like to know what types of
| capacitors will work will here.  The 68 pf  capacitor is a disc ceramic and
| the 120 pf  capacitor is a polystyrene type.  To make this change, I not
| only needed to change the VFO capacitor, but also the 30m xtal and futz
| around with the turn spacing on the VFO coil to get the proper VFO range.  I
| do not find the 18 khz per revolution tuning rate to be difficult but it is
| my nature to keep fussing.  73 - Rick - K7MW
| - Original Message -
| From: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 10:12 PM
| Subject: [Elecraft] K1 AGC time constant
| 
| 
|  I changed C31 on the RF board to 1uf  but it still seems very slow.  When
| I
|  remove an S9 siginal  (50uv) it takes about 15 seconds for the S meter to
|  decay to one bar.  I used a non polorized electrolitic cap as that is what
|  they had at RS.  It is physically larger than the original cap but there
| is
|  plenty of room.  I am not sure what a non polorized electrolitic capacitor
|  is but there are no polarity marks,  which I haven't seen before.  Should
| I
|  try a smaller value for C31? Thanks - Rick - K7MW
| 
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| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO frequency range change

2006-04-05 Thread Sandy W5TVW
This is the MAIN reason I changed the VFO span, to get up to 7100
to 7150 coverage.  At the same time, I pulled the 30 meter crystal and
installed the 10-10.15 crystal originally supplied if the 150 Khz span was
desired.  I also replaced the original plastic shaft 10 turn tuning pot
with a metal shaft/busing replacement, as my old pot was getting a bit
sloppy mechanically.
Really like this little rig.  Now I wish I could have 160-10 meter coverage
without changing RF boards!  Wayne:  THAT would be a feat in the space
allotted for the RF board!  A 9 band board?

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO frequency range change


| I changed the VFO frequency range capacitor to 120 pf and now have
| a 178 khz tuning range.
|
| That's why I've always termed this option as the 180 kHz option rather than 
Elecraft's 150 kHz
characterization.
|
| Since I only need 125 khz to reach the SKCC frequency of
| 7120 khz, I may try a 100 pf capacitor.
|
| There's a lot more Morse activity above 7120 kHz.  To me, that's more than 
worth the additional
VFO span.
|
| You mentioned having changed out the 30m hetrodyne crystal, which I assume 
means that your 30m
band tuning now starts near 10 MHz.  Reducing VFO span to, say, 125 kHz will 
mean that you'll only
be able to cover about the first 20 kHz of the 30m band.
|
| 73,
| Mike / KK5F
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|
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Re: [Elecraft] Balloons and Gas (WAS: ridge vent as antenna?)

2006-03-28 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Lucky guy!
I tried several times to get a ride, but no luck.
I was told by one of the pilots (about 15 years ago) that best time to 
scrounge a ride is right after the blimp arrives.  They make test flights 
and usually need some ballast.  
I also tried when I went to the Miami area where they were hangered.  
Again no luck.  Fisrt time they weren't flying due to maintenance.  
Second time, I was told they quit that because of insurance limitations.  
Guess I'll never get a ride in lighter than aircraft!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Ron D'Eau Claire' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Balloons and Gas (WAS: ridge vent as antenna?)


| I have 20 minutes of right seat time in my logbook in the Goodyear blimp! I
| traded a flight in the blimp for some training time in my balloon for the
| captain. I can tell you the Goodyear blimps are not a smooth ride. They
| hobby horse through the air and there is no more apt description than
| that. Hi. I have no idea what the big airships were like, and can't confirm
| or refute the stories. However, because of the relatively slow speeds, they
| become more a part of a given air mass and move with them where a much
| faster airplane is more likely to fly into them in a more confrontational
| manner. Hi.
| 
| I never operated ham radio from my balloon. As a pilot, you are pretty busy,
| esp. if you have excited passengers, but I would think it would intrude too
| much on a wonderful experience to chit chat with someone on the ground. I'm
| sure it has been done, though.
| 
| Eric
| KE6US
| www.ke6us.com
| 
| 
| 
| -Original Message-
| From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
| Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 12:08 PM
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Balloons and Gas (WAS: ridge vent as antenna?)
| 
| Jim, N2EY wrote:
| 
| Dirigibles/zeppelins couldn't go high enough to get above bad weather, nor
| fast enough to outrun/outflank it. Nor could they be made rugged enough to
| go through bad weather without being so heavy they'd not have much
| payload...
| 
| -
| 
| Ah, but the Zeppelin gave us a bit of technology that serves so well even
| today: the ever faithful and effective Zepp antenna and all its many
| derivatives! Who can run open wire line to an end-fed dipole without
| imagining they hear the rumble of the Zeppelin's engines somewhere in the
| far distance? 
| 
| Airships never went away, of course. They simply became things most folks
| were afraid to board, thanks to that classic bit of news footage of the
| Hindenburg's end. Smaller non-rigid airships served in huge numbers in WWII
| and they've been around ever since doing survey work, hauling heavy
| equipment and, of course, as moving billboards. Now a few companies are
| developing modern dirigibles for use in passenger and freight service once
| again. One such company is here in the Northwest USA. 
| 
| The fact that heavier-than-aircraft provide a rough ride in bad weather has
| given rise to the mistaken idea that the big lighter-than-airships did too.
| There was a fellow who made a number of crossings on both the Graf Zeppelin
| and the Hindenburg who became somewhat famous among Zeppelin travelers. Soon
| after departure he'd place a fountain pen, balanced on end, on a table in
| the passenger lounge and take bets on how long it'd stay upright. Frequently
| the pen was still upright when they tied up at the mooring mast at their
| destination a day or two later. In really rough weather the big airships
| were reported to sway gently, but that was all.
| 
| I suspect that airships, like Morse code, shortwave radio and a lot of
| other technology some folks assume are obsolete will be with us for a long,
| long time yet. Maybe we'll even get to work an aircraft mobile aboard a real
| dirigible again one day! Using CW of course...
| 
| Ron AC7AC
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)

2006-03-24 Thread Sandy W5TVW
The only ground antenna I worked with was a 270 ft. horizontal loop
made from #28 enemeled wire.  It was in a pentagon shape and laying 
right on the ground.
It loaded well with my antenna coupler thru a 1:1 homemade balun 
wound on a big 4 ferrite toroid form with about 12 turns trifilar
wound #18 solid hookup wire.  
I worked quite well I thought, except the signals incoming and outgoing were
down about 20 db.  Even did a few QSO's on 40 and 20 meters with it
QRP with the K1.
NOT the most effective antenna by any means, but surely a good 
'stealth' antenna for people in stuffy subdivisions with those stupid
covenants!  If I were going to make it a permanent installation
I'd use some single conductor #14 solid insulated wire from Home Depot
for protection against breakage.  Any Nosy Neighborhood Association
idiot snoop could be told it was a wire to keep dogs off your lawn,
or to keep you dog in your yard with a special collar.
Such an antenna would be a whole lot better than a short loaded whip 
or some other less desirable rigup.
73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Stuart Rohre [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)


| Hee, hee.  Bet you did not expect someone to report they had experience with 
| underwater antennas, but I have been on an experimental project to put the 
| Rogers FLEX Folded Conical Helical HF antenna on a submerged vessel. 
| (Written up in IEEE Transactions on Antennas and Propagation)
| 
| Of course, it was not used while submerged.
| 
| I also had some HF antennas on ocean buoys that wash over pretty regularly 
| in a high sea, so it is operated underwater part of the time.  Signal drops 
| as you would expect.  At 5 watts power, they were not going to work well 
| when in washover.  SWR goes crazy, but they right themselves pretty quick 
| and that is what foldback SWR protection is for.  Rig was FT 5 watter.
| 
| -Stuart
| K5KVH 
| 
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna

2006-02-23 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I have had some very good results with the K1 and the following:
1- MFJ-1910 33' fiberglass telescoping pole.
5 ea. of 33' lengths of #24 guage hookup wire (the MIL-SPEC stuff with striped
color coding on it.  Any hookup wire is OK.)
1 ea  25' length of same hookup wire.

I use a heavy photo tripod and bungee to anchor the pole.  In wind
you will need 3 gallon jugs full of water and more bungee to anchor the
legs!
Run a 33' wire up the MFJ mast and right into hot BNC jack pin, and
two to four 33' radials to the ground side of BNC connector.  I use a
Pomona BNC to binding post adapter.
This performs well on 40-15 meters with a built-in KAT1 tuner.
Will work equally well with a small T network MFJ tuner if you
don't have a KAT1.  
I even have  four 67' length wires I use when I have the 160/80 meter
RF board in the K1 on 80 meters.  Three for radials and one for first 33'
of vertical antenna and the other 33-34' drooping off to one side.

The MFJ pole is convienant and sets up very quickly.  No good for
back-packing, but I don't worry about that as I'm too damned old
for that kinda stuff anymore!

This worked well when we lost power here for 10 days after Katrina struck
the area!  Worked on a 4.5 A/H gell-cell battery and a small solar panel
to charge it up.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Stuart Rohre [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Clark Macaulay [EMAIL PROTECTED]; ElecraftList 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna


| Verticals are probably preferred for tight locations, and in any case have a 
| nice low angle of radiation even given ground mounting, or low elevated 
| mounting.  Of the two, if you can get the antenna up six or more feet, so 
| much the better.  Then you could use gull wing elevated radials to improve 
| it further without needing more than say 8 radials.  If you have few 
| radials, be sure to put them in the directions of ham population centers.
| 
| Don't forget that you can use long path to advantage when attempting to work 
| DX.   Long path can be skewed from the great circle projection so if the 
| dipole is not aligned perfectly, it may still work for you.  When using an 
| inverted Vee, you might get some gain putting a director wire slanted on 
| one side, to augment radiation in the desired direction.  The sloping Vee 
| beam idea from Ten Tec is also of merit for the higher bands when they are 
| open.  100 foot legs or more, and try to have the antenna 30 feet high at 
| the apex of the vee, where you feed it.  Ten Tec model is terminated, but 
| non terminated is easier, and then will give you bi-directional coverage, 
| albeit one at a high angle and the other low.  Still might make for 
| interesting DX.  I have used 5 wave legs on a Vee beam at 10 meters, and I 
| can testify that is a DX burner!
| 
| -Stuart
| K5KVH 
| 
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier status

2006-02-13 Thread Sandy W5TVW
How much power in and out you looking for?
If you want an amp for something like a K1 or KX1
there's a kit called the HF Packer that works from 160-10 and
really a fine little amplifier!
It will deliver 35 watts with about 1.5-2 watts of drive.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Rich McCabe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier status


| Is there any news on when the new amplifer/tuner kit is coming out?  I tried 
| to ask Wayne and Eric but do not get responses from either. Tried via the 
| list and direct :(
| 
| If not, does anyone know of a decent 10-160 SS amp kit a guy can build or 
| good plans to homebrew one?
| 
| Thanks and 73,
| 
| Rich
| kd0zv
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-02-08 Thread Sandy W5TVW
| 
| Back in the day when most hams used crystal controlled transmitters,  
| and would tune 10-25 kHz either side of their CQ looking for answers,  
| the practice of answering a CQ with W5TVW W5TVW W5TVW DE AA4LR AA4LR  
| AA4LR AR made sense.
| 
| However, these days, operating zero-beat on a single frequency, the  
| long call is just a waste of time. You call CQ DE W5TVW K. I'll  
| answer AA4LR on the same frequency. Where's the confusion?
| 

Perhaps no confusion to you, the sending operator, but a possible bit
of confusion to the operator who called CQ!
 Firstly, let's assume you have imperfect propagation conditions: fading, 
static,
whatever.  You might miss my call or get it confused if I sent it just once.
I am not privy to local man made noise, static generated by local storms,
or other conditions at your location.  Why not call at least a 2 X 2 format at
least if you want to shorten things?  Anything else might likely lead to asking
you to repeat your callsign, which takes up even more time?

Just a one time sent callsign IS bad operating practice and operating manners.
I would compare it to saying your name once to a crowd of people standing on 
the corner!  Who, sir are you addressing?  If the people around me were
talking to each other, I may have to hear it two or three times to get
it right.  I might have a slight case of deafness.  All good reasons to AT LEAST
send my callsign once and repeat your callsign twice.  i.e.: W5TVW DE W4ABC
W4ABC K.


| In contest operation, we'll dispense with the DE and K altogether.  
| Millions of contest CW contacts are made this way each year, without  
| sending both calls.
| 
Contest conditions are usually frantic, crowded and many times plain RUDE.
It is kinda like a cat fight with thousands of cats involved.  Even in contest
conditions, there are times for repitition.  A typical example is my kind of
contest: a QRP event.  Such things as sections/states and unique member
numbers are exchanged.  In the peak of the QRM/QSB I usually always
send State and my number TWICE.  This makes things perhaps run a few
seconds longer, but it makes the exchange much smoother, especially if
you are trying to operate a key and the rig with one hand and a 
logging program keyboard with the other hand.  Otherwise, you 
have to ask for a repeat which wastes more time.  
Abbreviated operating techniques are the norm in a free-for-all,pushing, shoving
contest.  I am always amused by the guy who is sending everything at 50 WPM
thinking he will get a higher QSO count by doing so!  Not everyone can do
that speed with consistant accuracy.

| The old Novice Accent advice was to do 3x3x3 - CQ CQ CQ DE W1ABC  
| W1ABC W1ABC repeated three times. Again, that was with a lot of guys  
| still rock-bound. These days, a single 3x3 with a few seconds of  
| listening seems more appropriate.
| 
I agree LOONG CQ calls or doing a 3 X 3 format three times
IS...repeat IS a waste of time and overkill.  Do the 3 X 3 and wait 
15-60 seconds and repeat the call.  We still have a few people who
have vintage transmitters that are crystal controlled, but sadly
very few people who tune around, even a couple of kHz. with 
the RIT control.

Anyway, the sum of it is, nobody seems like they are teaching ANY
really good operating practices anymore.  ARRL has dropped the section
from the Handbook.  They either don't give a damn, or they want to
sell you an additional book to cover that subject!
Having not taught a ham class for many, many years, I don't know
what is being skipped over these days.  I do remember there were
some Tech class operator prospects that wanted to rush out and
buy a 2 meter HT to work their buddies on the local repeater and
not be bothered with any protocols.  Kinda like a budding journalist
whose English grammar was terrible and he wanted to become the writer
of a serious column, but didn't want to brushup on his English usage!

73,

Sandy, W5TVW
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 with HF Packer Amp

2006-02-06 Thread Sandy W5TVW
That may be TOO much drive for the HF PAcker!  I drive one on 160-20 meters
with a K1 and it takes about 1.5-2.0 watts to make the HF Packer deliver 35 
watts out.
If you can't control the power output of the KX1, then you may have to change 
the
values of the attenuator network in the input path of the HF Packer on the RF 
board
therein.
I have had fantastic results from my HF Packer.  Only complaint is it needs
a bit of modification of the hang time.  Needs to be much shorter!
OK for SSB but no good for CW contest/net activity.  Ok for casual QSO's.
Hang time once keyed is much too long for CW.
73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Paul Webb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 with HF Packer Amp


| Some discussion lately on using the K2 to drive the HF Packer Amp.  I
| bought the amp kit some time ago and have not yet built it.  My main reason
| for buying was to use it to beef up a KX1 signal.
| 
| Has anyone had any experience driving the Packer Amp with a KX1?  My KX1
| puts out 4 watts on 40 meters and 3.5 watts on 20 meters.  Should have
| plenty of drive for the Amp.
| 
| Any comments and help will be very much appreciated.
| 
| Paul Webb, K5HKX
| Clute, TX
| 
| 
| PAUL WEBB
| [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| 
| 
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| 
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| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.2/252 - Release Date: 2/6/2006
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Modifying Wattmeter Slugs for QRP

2006-02-04 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Bird makes (or made?) a model 4410 wattmeter that will do what you want.
It looks identically to a model 43, except it has a single knob range switch
on it.  The ranges depend on the slug in use.  Mine has a 1 KW max.
2-30 Mhz slug, which yield ranges from 0-1 watt to 0-1000 watts with
a 1 and 3 scaling scheme. (1-3-10-30-100-300-1000 watts in this case).
Very handy for low power stuff.  VHF/UHF elements are available for it
that go down into milliwatt ranges.  It has a built in solid state amplifier 
that
is run by a common 9v. transistor radio battery.
They ain't cheap!  When I bought this one years ago it was around $500
less elements.  The elements were around $100 each at that time.
I only have two elements for it. 1 KW 2-30 mhz and 1 kw 144-520 Mhz.
(Both give the 1 watt to 1000 watt full scale ranges as per note above.)
I sure can't afford to buy elements for it now!  (Was using it on the job
when I bought it so it was a tool expense for income tax purposes.)
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Arthur Delibert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Modifying Wattmeter Slugs for QRP


| I have a Bird wattmeter that I'd like to use with QRP rigs.  As best I can 
tell, though, Bird did
not make slugs smaller than 50 watts for the 2-30 MHz range.
|
| There is a website that discusses how to open a Bird slug and modify it for a 
different power
level and/or frequency range.  
[http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/BIRD%20Slugs/birdslug1.htm]
|
| I'm wondering if anyone has tried to modify, say, a 2-30MHz/50-watt slug for 
10 watts and if so,
any experience to share?  What was the right resistor value?  How was the 
linearity of the meter
with the modified slug?
|
| Thanks for any experience or insights.
|
| Art Delibert
| KB3FJO
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|
|
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m

2006-01-31 Thread Sandy W5TVW
That's what I did is make a 160/80 meter board.  Had a ton of fun
over the weekend on 160.  Managed to work almost 150 QSO's with only
8 hours operating time.  Used the K1 and 5 watts out.  Worked 38 USA/Canada
sections and two DX QSO's.  Heard lots of DX but really hammering QRM
for this power level!
Too bad the band isn't populated most nights!  This demonstrates that 160
is VERY viable band that is very neglected the rest of the year!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: SteveG [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:08 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m


| Steve,
| 
| Putting a K1 on 160 can be done easily (see instructions below for one
| method).  Not too much effort.
| The KAT1 will tune OK, but the range will not be as great as on higher
| bands.
| In my opinion, it is a pain to have 2 40 meter boards and keep track of
| which is what.  Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands, so a 4 band board
| for 40 and up plus a 2 band board for 160 and 80 makes sense to me.
| 
| ADDING 160 meters to a K1:
| 
|  Not quite a full Elecraft 160m  80m board, but you can do it this way -
|  order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the following
|  components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the
|  instructions for how I did it: --
|  maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band
| board
|  and the other needed parts
| 
|  I ordered the following from Elecraft:
| 
|  Capacitors:
|  2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
|  3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
|  2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
|  2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
|  2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
|  2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
|  1 - E53005812 pf capacitor
| 
|  Inductors:
|  1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
|  2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)
| 
|  Toroid cores:
|  2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)
| 
|  I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance)
| from
|  International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.
| 
|  If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also
| order
|  the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.
| 
|  The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
|  crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.
| 
|  I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
|  locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were
| left
|  empty at this time.
| 
|  Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire)
| on
|  the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.
| 
|  The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and
| L6.
|  On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and
|  L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).
| 
|  The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the leads
|  under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor
|  is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.
| 
|  Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire
|  to the side of the can (or top if you prefer).
| 
|  The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions:
|  C1  C5 - 680 pf
|  C2  C4 - 2700 pf
|  C3   - 12 pf
| 
|  C11  C15 - 1800 pf
|  C12  C14 - 560 pf
|  C21  C23 - 1500 pf
|  C22- 2700 pf
| 
|  You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2
|  band board following the instructions in the K1 manual.  Mine came up with
|  no trouble at all.
| 
| 73,
| Don W3FPR
| 
|  -Original Message-
|  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of SteveG
|  Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:11 AM
|  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
|  Subject: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m
| 
| 
|  Hi Folks, I've a couple of spare FIL-2 revD boards that I want to
|  reload for
|  fun. Put one on 40/80 and the other on 80m/160m(?).
| 
|  Here's my Qs:
|  1. Will the ATU handle 80m? ...and what about 160M? assuming I'm
|  not trying
|  to load a 'coat hanger' on 160!
|  2. Where can I get the info on putting K1 FIL 2 on 160m ? is it worht the
|  effort?
|  3. My FIL-4 aready has 40m if I do a FIL-2 on 40/80 is it a pain to recal
|  for the band/board swap?
|  4. So when iis the KX1 30/80 brd gonna debut??? I would love to fill those
|  long cold winter eves with few KX1-QSOs durning my snow cave adventures.
|  Steve/n0tu (in digest mode)
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m

2006-01-31 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Antenna was an 80 meter dipole at 50' with 100' of 450 ohm line sloping north.
I short the feeder and feed it as a Marconi against a 6 radial ground system,
radials being 150' long.  I use a simple L section matching network.  Series 
L
and shunt C on antenna side of the network.

I too use the narrow bandwidth at 200 Hz. and input attenuator on.  (With K1
radio)

Wish I could have had the endurance and un-interrupted time to operate longer!
I had trouble working W1 stations from here.

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Dave Sublette [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m


| Sandy,
| 
| What antenna did you use on 160?  It must have beeen pretty good to have 
| worked that many stations.  I ran 100W(TenTec Omni VI+) for the contest 
| and worked 397 Qs and 80 multipliers, many of which were DX. But my 
| antenna is a full quarterwave elevated groundplane.   I have found that 
| on the contest nights I have to screw the filtering down to 250 hz and 
| put a 20 db pad in the front end.  In addition, I turn off the AGC and 
| back the RF gain down.  It was actually quite pleasant to work the 
| contest in this way. I have no special receiving antennasjust use 
| the vertical on TX and RX.
| 
| 73,
| 
| Dave, K4TO
| 
| Sandy W5TVW wrote:
|  That's what I did is make a 160/80 meter board.  Had a ton of fun
|  over the weekend on 160.  Managed to work almost 150 QSO's with only
|  8 hours operating time.  Used the K1 and 5 watts out.  Worked 38 USA/Canada
|  sections and two DX QSO's.  Heard lots of DX but really hammering QRM
|  for this power level!
|  Too bad the band isn't populated most nights!  This demonstrates that 160
|  is VERY viable band that is very neglected the rest of the year!
| 
|  73,
|  Sandy W5TVW
|  - Original Message - 
|  From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|  To: SteveG [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
|  Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:08 AM
|  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1 160m/80m
| 
| 
|  | Steve,
|  | 
|  | Putting a K1 on 160 can be done easily (see instructions below for one
|  | method).  Not too much effort.
|  | The KAT1 will tune OK, but the range will not be as great as on higher
|  | bands.
|  | In my opinion, it is a pain to have 2 40 meter boards and keep track of
|  | which is what.  Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands, so a 4 band board
|  | for 40 and up plus a 2 band board for 160 and 80 makes sense to me.
|  | 
|  | ADDING 160 meters to a K1:
|  | 
|  |  Not quite a full Elecraft 160m  80m board, but you can do it this 
way -
|  |  order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the 
following
|  |  components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the
|  |  instructions for how I did it: --
|  |  maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band
|  | board
|  |  and the other needed parts
|  | 
|  |  I ordered the following from Elecraft:
|  | 
|  |  Capacitors:
|  |  2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
|  |  3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
|  |  2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
|  |  2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
|  |  2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
|  |  2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
|  |  1 - E53005812 pf capacitor
|  | 
|  |  Inductors:
|  |  1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
|  |  2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)
|  | 
|  |  Toroid cores:
|  |  2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)
|  | 
|  |  I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance)
|  | from
|  |  International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.
|  | 
|  |  If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also
|  | order
|  |  the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.
|  | 
|  |  The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
|  |  crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.
|  | 
|  |  I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
|  |  locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were
|  | left
|  |  empty at this time.
|  | 
|  |  Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire)
|  | on
|  |  the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.
|  | 
|  |  The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and
|  | L6.
|  |  On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 
and
|  |  L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).
|  | 
|  |  The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the 
leads
|  |  under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my 
inductor
|  |  is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.
|  | 
|  |  Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding 
wire
|  |  to the side of the can (or top if you prefer

Re: [Elecraft] K1, calling CQ, 2x QRP QSO.

2006-01-30 Thread Sandy W5TVW
A lot of people nowadays don't understand HF propagation.  One MUST 
remember that the propagation programs are not necessarily correct!

Many times bands are really open, but there isn't any activity.  A lot of
folks make a quick check, listen a minute or two and assume the band
is dead.  ALWAYS listen and ALWAYS call a few CQ's.  You never know!

A classic example of this is assuming 10,12,15 meters are beyond help.
this part of the sunspot cycle.   Many times it will be dead for East-West paths
but open for North South paths, especially to South America from the USA.

This is the great advantage of beacons in various places on 20-10 meters.
Also weird anomalies will exist in propagation no computer program
will predict.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:31 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1, calling CQ, 2x QRP QSO.


| I rarely call CQ - especially when running QRP.  But sometimes, a fella
| has to do what a fella has to do.
|  
| Fired up the K1 on 20 meters, dialed up 14040 (or was it 14060 - can't
| recall) and called CQ.  Got an answer from a station in NM which sure
| made me smile (I love NM).  He was running an Argo 509 and we exchanged
| 449 sig reports.
|  
| Hmm, 5 watts to a vertical, call CQ and work a guy a couple thousand
| miles away.  Sunspots, who needs sunspots when you have mojo :-)
|  
| - Keith KD1E -
| ___
| Elecraft mailing list
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| You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
| Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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| 
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| Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
| 
| 
| 
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amazing K1 K2 receiver feat

2006-01-23 Thread Sandy W5TVW
When I first got my K1 running a couple of years ago, When I disconnected
the generator and turned the gain full up, the receiver sounded a bit deaf
as there was practically no noise at all generated internally!  It has never
ceased to amaze me as to what I can hear with it though!  For what is
in it, it works amazingly well and it is by far the best CW QRP rig
I ever owned.
Right about now, I need a new tuning pot, as I have just about worn the one 
that came with it out!  I plan on getting a metal shafted one when I replace it
as the plastic bodied one gets a bit sloppy when you use it as much as I've 
used this one!
Can't say enough about it's performance in VERY crowded band conditions
of QRP contests.  For the number of crystals in the variable selectivity filter,
it works VERY nicely!

73,

Sandy W5TVW
K1 #1178
- Original Message - 
From: Stephanie Maks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Amazing K1  K2 receiver feat


| At least, I think it's amazing.
| 
| I have my K1 on the workbench right now for some testing.  I've got a  
| little 5-watt dummy load plugged in as I was doing some tests with  
| the power and SWR meters in the KAT1.
| 
| And suddenly, with just a dummy load, I was listening to W1AW code  
| practice on 40 meters!
| 
| When I heard the faint code, my first thought was that I'd left a PIC  
| beacon controller running on my bench.  When I realized that nothing  
| on my bench was turned on, I thought maybe I have a ham neighbor that  
| I wasn't previously aware of.  Then I heard the callsign, and  
| realized it's code practice, coming from Newington CT!
| 
| So I had to try it with the K2...I put it in the same spot, plugged  
| in the dummy load and tuned 7047.5.  Hey, it works on the K2 as  
| well!  RF Gain at max, AF Gain at 2 o'clock and pre-amp on, and I  
| can hear W1AW in the K2 speaker, using just a dummy load for an antenna.
| 
| So, is this amazing proof of the great Elecraft designs?  Or does  
| this sort of thing happen all the time?
| 
| 73 de Stephanie
| va3uxb
| K2#5311 - K1#2132
| 
| ___
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| 
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| Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
| 
| 
| 
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.22/238 - Release Date: 1/23/2006
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-01-14 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Operating protocol today is absolutely atrocious at times!
A lot of the newer hams know nothing about really proper procedure and
many are very short on manners!
Biggest violation of all is when someone calls CQ, another station just
answers W1ABC W1ABC K.  Who is he calling?  I usually respond by sending: 
QRZ?  QRZ? DE W5TVW K.
Often the other station will simply send
W1ABC W1ABC K  If the band is crowded, which it often is, this had NOT
told me he is calling me!  We have not yet established communication so
the DE W1ABC or W1ABC IS NOT proper or polite procedure.

Whether a station uses OP, NAME, HANDLE (or whatever) that is his
preference, whatever turns his crank.

Add to this the Novice accent heard STILL today NNQ NNQ NNQ NNQ NNQ
DE W1ABC W1ABC.. repeated several times.  Then a 5 second
pause for an answer, followed by the same long CQ call again!  One chap on 40
a few nights ago repeated this for maybe 5-6 times.  I couldn't stand it any 
longer
and fired up the 1/2 Kw and called him.  He acted as if I was never there.
Either deaf or has his receiver somewhere besides his frequency.

Are ham license classes teaching proper procedures anymore?  I KNOW the
FCC doesn't give a damn.  Perhaps a cell phone ringing, or someone passing
gas loudly, or talking loudly in an office or church or theatre isn't considered
RUDE anymore, so why try to have any manners in the ham bands?

Sorry for the diatribe, but seems like too many of the newbies are not
paying attention or don't care.  More attention needs to be payed to
the ARRL operating manual or have they rewritten it to reflect the
times?

This 2 cents worth on Rotten Radio from this Old Man.

73 to all,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT


| In a message dated 1/13/06 3:35:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
| [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
|
|
|  The use of CL, KN, BK, or the use of both AR and K at the end of the same
|  transmission is nonsense.
|
|
| I disagree in part.
|
| CL means closing station, will not listen for any calls Equivalent to the
| military use of AR. How the amateur and military uses of AR got so
| different is a mystery to me.
|
| KN has a definite use in amateur radio if someone is rare DX.
|
| BK is different from K in that it is used in rapid-fire exchanges rather than
| with full callsign exchanges.
|
|
| I do agree about combining AR and K.
|
|
|  But BK is used in rapid-fire exchanges
|  *without* the formal callsign exchange:
|  .FB MOJO OM BT IS UR RIG A K2 or K1? BK
| 
|  Once again...a simple K serves even better.  There is no usage rule that
|  states that K must only be used following a call sign.
|
| No, but it emphasizes the quick nature of the exchange.
|
| 
|
| Couple of other points:
|
| Someone mentioned brevity.
|
| In my Novice days it was common to hear things like:
|
| R R R TNX FER CALL BT UR SIGS RST 599 599 BT QTH IS WAYNE, PA WAYNE, PA BT
| NAME IS JIM JIM
|
| pounded out at 5-7 wpm.
|
| But the same thing can be sent as:
|
| R R R TNX CL UR 599 599 IN WAYNE PA WAYNE PA  OP JIM JIM
|
| which still includes the repeats of the important stuff but is a bit
| shorter
|
|   ____
| On run together prosigns like AR and SK:
|
| I propose that since plaintext doesn't allow us to overline easily, we adopt
| the online convention of enclosing such signals in brackets. []
|
| So AR would mean didah   didahdit
|
| and  [AR] would mean didahdidahdit
|
| Agreed?
|
| --
|
| On standardization:
|
| It's interesting to see the variations in different military and commercial
| Morse operations vs. amateur, as well as ITU standards.
|
| But I think it's pretty clear that nobody else is going to set standards for
| Morse
| much any more. Indeed, at least here in the USA, the FCC has backed down from
| many old standards. For example, it used to be required by law that hams give
| their own call last - that's gone. So is logkeeping as a legal requirement,
| indicating most portable or mobile operation, indicating the station called,
| and much more.
|
| IOW, the standards for Morse in the future are going to be mostly what we
| hams say they are.
|
| 73 de Jim, N2EY
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|
| Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
| Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
|
|
|
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.17/228 - Release Date: 1/12/2006
|
|

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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-01-14 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I have taught many CW procedures classes in the past.  I was also
frequently tapped to explain tube amplifier classes, oscillator circuits, etc.
as most of the people wanted to know this in addition to solid state gear
theory.
I did this umtil there seemed to be no interest in doing this anymore.
This was the era when it seemed everyone was unloading vacuum tube gear,
even throwing it in the dumpster at hamfests!  The days when you could 
buy all the Johnson Viking Rangers you wanted  for $20-40 TOPS, some in
mint condition!  Wished I'd bought some of them then!  (If I did, I knew my
XYL would raise hell about storing all that junk!)

Most hams then were more interested in getting the code to 13 WPM and
then forgetting it and working SSB 'phone.  Anyone at the time that liked CW
was usually checking into an ARRL NTS net and learned traffic net procedures
and proper protocol.  Contesting was popular, but the contests were rather far
apart and few between, so most CW contesters would ragchew at times to keep
their code speed up.  No computers and 'code readers, and computers in those
days for most hams.

I find most CW operators are QRPers or are fooling with boatanchor/glowbug 
rigs nowadays.  There are a FEW  newbies that take to code like ducks to 
water.  I'm afraid the realm of the telegrapher is getting smaller and 
smaller.
It's ashame as Morse is a VERY unique communication system and an 'art'.
The Amateurs and airplane pilots seem the only ones who still use it.
(Yes, airplane pilots STILL have to use Morse to decode the aural
identification of DME/VOR/NDB transmitters/beacons.)

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Tony Martin W4FOA [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT


| Sandy,
| I agree with much of what you have said but I would ask whom shall we 
| blame?
| Unfortunately, I think we, you and I, are to blame for the lack of skills 
| and know how
| of many of the newcomers.
| 
| I don't know how long you have been in ham radio, but it wasn't too many 
| years
| ago when most of us were in ham radio because of an elmer.  Someone that
| introduced us to this wonderful hobby and nudged us along the way, 
| encouraged us
| when we wanted to give up, and then tutored us as we got on the air.  Even 
| corrected
| us when we were not operating according to the standards of the day.
| 
| Today it is too easy to buy a book off the shelf, spend a day studying it, 
| spend 20 minutes
| taking an exam and wait 24 hours to receive your own callsign.  The radio 
| clubs are
| ever so eager to have new members that many really don't spend the time to 
| insure that
| the new member will ever be more than a dues paying member and never 
| realize there
| is more to ham radio than 2 meters.
| 
| If there is a solution to the problem of poor operating habits by our 
| newcomers, it will
| be for each of us to take them by the hand and teach them the correct 
| procedures.  BUT,
| please don't think for one minute that ALL of the bad operators are 
| newcomers.not
| by any stretch of the imagination!
| 
| My two cents worth..
| 
| Tony, W4FOA
| 
| 
| - Original Message - 
| From: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 9:44 PM
| Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT
| 
| 
|  Operating protocol today is absolutely atrocious at times!
|  A lot of the newer hams know nothing about really proper procedure and
|  many are very short on manners!
|  Biggest violation of all is when someone calls CQ, another station just
|  answers W1ABC W1ABC K.  Who is he calling?  I usually respond by 
|  sending: QRZ?  QRZ? DE W5TVW K.
|  Often the other station will simply send
|  W1ABC W1ABC K  If the band is crowded, which it often is, this had NOT
|  told me he is calling me!  We have not yet established communication so
|  the DE W1ABC or W1ABC IS NOT proper or polite procedure.
| 
|  Whether a station uses OP, NAME, HANDLE (or whatever) that is his
|  preference, whatever turns his crank.
| 
|  Add to this the Novice accent heard STILL today NNQ NNQ NNQ NNQ NNQ
|  DE W1ABC W1ABC.. repeated several times.  Then a 5 second
|  pause for an answer, followed by the same long CQ call again!  One chap on 
|  40
|  a few nights ago repeated this for maybe 5-6 times.  I couldn't stand it 
|  any longer
|  and fired up the 1/2 Kw and called him.  He acted as if I was never there.
|  Either deaf or has his receiver somewhere besides his frequency.
| 
|  Are ham license classes teaching proper procedures anymore?  I KNOW the
|  FCC doesn't give a damn.  Perhaps a cell phone ringing, or someone passing
|  gas loudly, or talking loudly in an office or church or theatre isn't 
|  considered
|  RUDE anymore, so why try to have any manners in the ham bands

Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery

2005-12-28 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I originally ordered my K1 with the internal battery accessory.  Didn't like 
the little speaker at
all compared to the larger one.  Also the cells were a pain in the butt
to install and remove for charging.
I never thought about leakage, but that makes a lot of sense!

I use a 10 cell holder with 2 A/H Ni MH batteries portable.  Also have
a cheapie $15 gellcell battery pack I bought from Sportsman's Guide
that is super neat.  The two 6 volt batteries in series are around 4 A/H
as I recall.  Pack has a nice shoulder strap, internal 10 amp fuse
(the 5 X 20mm European type) in a holder.  I took loose the
cigar lighter receptical and installed a two wire Anderson Powerpole
connector on the lead.  Everything I have now That works on a 12-15
volt DC supply has the Powerpole connectors on them.  Very convienant.

73,

Sandy W5TVW

- Original Message - 
From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery


| Tom asked:
|
|  Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
|  internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
| 
|  I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
|  to access the battery compartment.
|
| The knobs you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws that 
hold the K1 top cover
on at the rear.  The KBT1 screws have a larger knurled head that allows them to 
be loosened or
tightened using only finger force.  The replacement top cover that comes with 
the KBT1 is held in
place in the front by a lip, so only the two screws at the rear are required.
|
| I removed my KBT1 after having it in place for about 18 months.   I didn't 
like the looks of the
KBT1 top cover and the sound of the micro speaker attached to it, compared to 
the original cover and
speaker.  More importantly, I don't like a source of potential chemical leakage 
from batteries
inside the K1's case.  There is no physical barrier around the KBT1 AA-cell 
pack that will retain
leakage from a cell.  I much prefer to use a small external 10-AA cell pack 
rather than the 8-AA
cell pack of the KBT1.
|
| The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the compromises 
associated with having it
installed need only be suffered when absolutely needed.  The KBT1 *should* 
attach via a cable with a
polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector *anchored* on the RF 
board.  This would allow
easy removal at any time.  The current design has the connections made by 
soldered connections, and
even if you jury-rig in a connector in the power leads, one side of the 
connector will then be
floating around creating potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
|
| 73,
| Mike / KK5F
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|
|
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K1 on 10 meters: helpful advice

2005-12-26 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Keep us posted on this guys!  I plan ultimately to build a 17/10 meter board.
Already have a 160/80 meter board to go with my 40/30/20/15 meter 
4 band board.
I'm in no rush as it will be a while before 10 gets decent again except for
the usual summertime Sporadic E type stuff and the perennial
North-South path to South America.  I can work the Argentine/Brazilian
Venezuelan stations already on 20 or 15 so don't need 10 meters for them!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Stephanie Maks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 3:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K1 on 10 meters: helpful advice


| Hi Wayne,
| 
| Thanks very much for the additional information!  Most of my  
| guestimated values for the 2-band board seem to match those that were  
| in the email you sent; the only ones I was way off on were C16  C20.
| 
| I actually found a cheap source of fundamental 36MHz crystals.   
| They're about $4.00 each, the only catch is they're surface-mount.  I  
| just solder leads on them and use them in the normal crystal mounting  
| holes.
| 
| Yesterday I was at work most of the day with a lot of time to think  
| and surf the net, and found one email that I'd missed in my earlier  
| research:
| http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-06/ 
| msg00789.html
| 
| Based on that email, I reduced the value of RF-R11 from 82 ohms to 33  
| ohms.  I now get up to almost 3 watts out on 10 meters.  I'll have a  
| go at adding the L-network at J7-P8 as described in the email you  
| provided and see if that improves things any further.
| 
| I also went a little crazy last night with experimentation, and  
| decided to have a shot at my 'ideal' 4-band filter board:  80 / 40 /  
| 20 / 10 meters. I've got a design in mind to provide 4 separate low- 
| pass filters, but it will mean some drastic surgery to the filter  
| board, and I won't have room for the noise blanker any more.  As it  
| stands now, on the test bench, I have a full 5 watts output on 80,  
| 40, and 20 meters, and 2 to 3 watts on 10 meters.  The board's two  
| existing low pass filters are set-up for 40 and 10 meters.  So while  
| I can currently listen on all four bands, I won't be transmitting on  
| 80 or 20 just yet.  The key for me though is, I know what is  
| required, what the values are, and have a good idea how to lay it out  
| physically, so basically I know it's possible.
| 
| Thanks again for the info and suggestions!
| 
| Happy holidays and 73 de
| Stephanie Maks
| va3uxb
| 
| 
| 
| On 26-Dec-2005, at 14.44.01, wayne burdick wrote:
| 
|  Stephanie (and other interested parties),
| 
|  I have some additional thoughts on modifying the K1 for 10 meters.  
|  I also found some old e-mail from another customer who attempted  
|  it. Between the two, I believe you'll be able to do this successfully.
| 
|  When I designed the Norcal/Wilderness Sierra, which uses the same  
|  I.F. as the K1, I realized that a 36-MHz crystal would be  
|  expensive, so I came up with an alternate mixing scheme where the  
|  LO is below the band rather than above it. The RX and TX image  
|  rejection isn't quite as good with this technique, but that  
|  probably doesn't matter since the band-pass filters are narrow.
| 
|  Here's the normal conversion scheme (high-side injection):
| 
| RF   28.000 - 28.100
|   + IF4.915
|  
|   = LO   32.915 - 33.015
|  + VFO3.085 -  2.985
|  
|   = XO   36.000
| 
| 
|  Here's the alternate scheme using low-side injection:
| 
| RF   28.000 - 28.100
|   - IF4.915
|  
|   = LO   23.085 - 23.185
|  + VFO3.085 -  2.985
|  
|   = XO   26.170
| 
|  I.e., you can use a 26.170 MHz fundamental crystal. Advantages of  
|  this frequency vs. 36 MHz include: (1) more power output from the  
|  NE602 premixer oscillator; (2) cheaper; (3) possibly available from  
|  Wilderness Radio. If Wilderness doesn't have any, you might try  
|  ICM. I think the ICM part number for the basic crystal type (not  
|  including frequency) would be #436162.
| 
|  Low-side injection results in one additional minor issue: the  
|  sideband gets inverted. This just means that the CW pitch will  
|  change in the opposite way from the other bands as you tune. VFO  
|  readings should still be accurate.
| 
|  Looking back through old K1 design notes, I found an e-mail from  
|  another customer (Bob Larkin, [EMAIL PROTECTED]) who put his K1  
|  on 10 meters. He used an overtone 36 MHz oscillator, requiring  
|  changes to the basic band module. A 26.17-MHz crystal would be  
|  simpler, as I described above. But Bob's notes on getting adequate  
|  power output on this band are quite useful. I have attached them  
|  below. Let me know if you try this! If we have a couple of  
|  customers successfully complete

Re: [Elecraft] New K1 on the air!

2005-12-20 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Have been pleased with mine since I had it!  I do HOPE you installed the
LCD backlight kit?  I just did an outdoor contest since I put mine in and
it is REALLY nice.  No more squinting or flashlights to read the dial at
night or poor light!  The receiver noise floor is Way down there!
Sounds like it is a crystal set almost until you connect the antenna!
Good radio.
72's
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 10:35 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] New K1 on the air!


| Hello fellow Elecraftsmen -
|
| I finished aligning my K1-4 #2146 tonight and before I could get the speaker 
wired up and the
cabinet bolted together I had a nice QSO with N5PHT in Texas for my maiden 
voyage QSO.
|
| I AM IMPRESSED WITH THE RECEIVER!!!   I was worried that my daily use of my 
K2 would spoil me for
any other radio.  The K1 is no slouch.
|
| I can hardly wait to try it out on 40M under contest conditions.
|
| One of the first database programs I ever saw on a home computer was called 
WHATSIT?
|
| It stood for WOW!  How'd All That Stuff Get In There?.
|
| So my K1 has now been Christened The Whatsit.
|
| 73 and hope to QNI the Elecraft Net one of these days.
|
| Tom K2TA
| Greenwood Lake, NY
| K2/100/AT #1117
| K1-4 #2146
|
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Re: [Elecraft] CW poll

2005-12-07 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Is this for members only?  I see nothing on the home page about this.  What's 
the full link?
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 10:20 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] CW poll


| There is a poll at http://www.arrl.org asking what percentage of time 
| we spend operating CW.  So far there are only 3200 votes.  More votes 
| would make it more interesting!  Please vote (early but not often).
| 
| Yes I know it's self-selected and statistically worthless, as well as 
| being easy to fool into accepting multiple votes.  But it's interesting 
| anyway.
| 
| -- 
| 73,
| Vic, K2VCO
| Fresno CA
| http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] CW poll

2005-12-07 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
SORRY!  I read the rest of incoming mail and found out where it was!
Thier website is VERY cluttered!
Yes I did vote!  We almost need to pack the ballot box so the ARRL gang 
doesn't go along with the
rabid
no code bunch!  Remember what happened to the MARS system!  They simply 
banned its use!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Sandy, W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW poll


| Is this for members only?  I see nothing on the home page about this.  What's 
the full link?
| 73,
| Sandy W5TVW
| - Original Message - 
| From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 10:20 AM
| Subject: [Elecraft] CW poll
|
|
| | There is a poll at http://www.arrl.org asking what percentage of time
| | we spend operating CW.  So far there are only 3200 votes.  More votes
| | would make it more interesting!  Please vote (early but not often).
| |
| | Yes I know it's self-selected and statistically worthless, as well as
| | being easy to fool into accepting multiple votes.  But it's interesting
| | anyway.
| |
| | -- 
| | 73,
| | Vic, K2VCO
| | Fresno CA
| | http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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| |
| |
| |
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| | Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 12/5/2005
| |
| |
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[Elecraft] Replacement K1 tune pot.?

2005-11-21 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Some time ago someone posted a Mouser or whoever's catalog number
for a metal shaft replacement tuning pot.  I can't find the e-mail in
my messages received file.  Can someone give me correct number for this
item?  Mine is just about worn out now and getting sloppy.

73,
Sandy W5TVW 
K1 #1178
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Re: [Elecraft] 160M values (or 12M, 10M) for K1 KFL1-2

2005-11-21 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
The K1 works very well on 160!  Last year I built a 160-80
meter 2 band board.
Elecraft has all the parts except the crystal.  I went to ICM for that.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Beford [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 3:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] 160M values (or 12M, 10M) for K1 KFL1-2


| I am wondering if anyone has sucessfully configured a K1 for 160M. Looking
| for the component values and crystal freq for the KFL1-2 board. Values for
| 12M and 10M would also be a welcome addition to the files here. Thanks in
| advance for any info.
| 
| 73,
| Bruce N1RX
| 
| K1 #620
| KX1 #849
| K2 #
| K3 # TBA
| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-1 Mobile

2005-11-01 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
I ran a lot of QRP mobile some years ago.  I used a Newtronics Hustler at the
time.  Since then I used what's called a Bug catcher.  It is simply a center
loaded whip.  Lower section was 3' then a section of Inductor about 3 in
diameter on a piece of PVC pipe with a flyiong lead and an alligator clip to
select the coil tap.  Upper section of whip about 5' long.  From the base 
of the whip to ground I used a liottle box that switched in capacitors 
from the base of antenna to ground to make the impedance closer to 
25-50 ohms depending on the band.  That rig worked the BEST!  It
looked rather gawky, but it did work!  I have not had a lot of luck
with other antennas for QRP operation.  Too inefficient.
I changed over from the Hustler whip to the bug catcher
configuration when I went QRO mobile and found out the 
damned loading coil was getting warm wasting a lot of power!

The Bug catcher configuration worked fine with an old Ten-Tec
Argonaut transceiver tha ran about 3-4 watts out on SSB or CW.

I hear the screwdriver antenna work OK, but I would have to
be convinced of that before I spent money on one!  I KNOW the
Bug catcher type antennas  work great.

K1 should make a neat mobile rig for CW 40-15 meters.

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 2:06 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K-1 Mobile


| Is anyone other than me trying to use a K-1 mobile? If so, what types of  
| antennas are most effective? And are there any plans available for a manually 
 
| tuned mobile for 40-30-20-17 meters?
|  
| Ci Jones  (K-2/100 #4615, K-1 #957, KX-1 #933)
| WU7R 
| FISTS 10789
| NAQCC  306
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 last band (15/17) choice help

2005-09-25 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
17 meters is only nice if you are NOT a contester.  More activity
is usually on 15 meters.
I tried 17 meters and quickly changed to 15 as more going on there
and you can use it for 15 meter QRP nets and contests.
Take your pick.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 12:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1-4 last band (15/17) choice help


| I'm looking for advice/experince again.  I don't really work much on either 17
| or 15, so I would like some advice.  The best unsolicited advice has said:
| 
| 1) There is a lot of local activity (depending on your locality) on 17 on 
SSB. 
| Can the same be said about CW?
| 2) 15m is an excellent DX band when it is open.  Is it open often enough to
| justify dedicating 1/4 of the band capability of the K1-4 to?
| 
| David, K3TUE
| .
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] nice photo of a K1 with LCD backlight

2005-09-15 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Wayne,
Where is the info on using AGC on/off for turning light on and off?
Nothing on my modification sheet about it.  Also nothing on sheet 
currently at Elecraft website.

73,
Sandy W5TVW

Light works great by the way!

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: QRP-L [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 12:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] nice photo of a K1 with LCD backlight


| Eric, KE6US, took a great night-time photo of his K1 with the new 
| backlight installed. He was kind enough to let us post the photo on our 
| site. See:
| 
| http://www.elecraft.com/K1/K1_backlight_detail.jpg
| 
| I believe Eric used the 10 mA option, given the brightness. 6 mA is 
| just a bit dimmer, but still quite adequate.
| 
| The instruction sheet explains how to use the AGC on/off menu entry for 
| backlight control (you can assign this menu entry to the PFn switch on 
| the front panel, too). I'd be curious to know whether anyone besides me 
| has set their K1 up this way.
| 
| 73,
| Wayne
| N6KR
| 
| 
| ---
| 
| http://www.elecraft.com
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] nice photo of a K1 with LCD backlight

2005-09-14 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Got mine installed today.  It works great.  Nice green light
behind the LCD.
Much better than my jury rigged white LEDs!
73,
Sandy W5TVW K1 #1178
- Original Message - 
From: ron [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] nice photo of a K1 with LCD backlight


| wayne burdick wrote:
|  Eric, KE6US, took a great night-time photo of his K1 with the new 
|  backlight installed. He was kind enough to let us post the photo on our 
|  site.
| 
| wow!
| 
| That looks really cool!
| 
| I wonder what the increase in current draw is?
| 
| Ron wb1hga
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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Jeese!  What's next?  I guess this is another excuse to watch football on TV and
work a contest at the same time?!

Wonder when they will advertise the automatic logging and QSOing Contest Robot
software?  Just plug it in, programming and hit the start key!!

Won't that be challenging?

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...


| Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers, anyone
| who contests a full weekend will probably appreciate
| the humor:
| 
| http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf
| 
| 
| 73,
| Julius
| n2wn
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] Sad day for amateur radio

2005-07-21 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
I'm in the same boat!  I struggled with code for a long time.  Finally got in 
when the
Novice Class was started in 1951!  I took my test the month after it started.
I didn't get an Extra until 1968!  The code was still a struggle!  I did take 
the Extra as a
warmup for 2nd Class Radiotelegraph, which was required for my job!  Passed 
both of
them the second try.  As I worked with code on the ships, I began to see the 
uniqueness
of it!  You can send and receive messages in a foriegn language you can't speak 
or read
using CW!  Amazing!  No computers required, no interpreters required!

I've been practically on nothing but CW now for about 20 years.  It's a great 
mode
when you have a sore throat and can't talk!

Too bad the knuckleheaded newbie people think Morse is too antiquated to 
carry over into
the 21st century!  Ain't nothing like CW for QRP work!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] Sad day for amateur radio


|  Code has been an artificial barrier to entry for a long time. I fought every
|  attempt to reduce or eliminate code. In the end, the joke was on me. 
Reducing
|  it didn't hurt ham radio, and eliminating it will most likely help. Not to 
swell our
|  ranks, but to bring in quality people who will advance the hobby, but have
|  always thought ham radio was irrelevant. And those newcomers who are bright
|  enough will recognize for themselves when Morse Code makes sense and they
|  will use it.
|
| True enough, though many of us operate CW now only because we were forced to 
learn it then found
out it was fun. Without the motivation to learn it, there will be fewer 
practitioners. As all you
Really OF's (i.e. older than me) die off, there won't be as many people to talk 
to on CW.
|
| The other side of this coin is that I hang out with a whole bunch of 
Technicians who know way more
about electronics, antennas, and propagation than I do. Their interests are in 
the bands I use to
cook food. They're certainly no less hams than I even though none of them 
know any code.
|
| Craig
| NZ0R
| K1 #1966
| K2 #4941
|
|
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|
|
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
| Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.2/54 - Release Date: 7/21/2005
|
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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Sad day

2005-07-21 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
I don't think it REALLY will either.  What I fear is the SSB/digital bunch 
will demand
use of the whole band!  It's a bitch to work QRP thru the Spanish SSB on 40, so 
I can
imagine what will happen when a jillion screaming USA SSB'ers take over the 
whole band!
The other shoe hasn't dropped yet!  (Expanding the 'phone bands).  I hope the 
FCC hasn't an
unpleasant surprise when it becomes a NPRM.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: James Kern [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Craig Rairdin' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 11:20 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RE: Sad day


| Thinking about it,
|I don't think dropping the code will make one bit of difference to CW. I
| agree with Craig in that the guys that just squeak by the CW test most
| likely won't be found on the CW bands. The people who want to learn CW will.
| 99% of my HF operating is in CW. I'm not on HF that often, but when I do
| it's almost always CW. I imagine there will be (at least in the beginning) a
| flood of HF phone activity and then it will taper off back to 'normal' or a
| little higher than normal afterwards.
|
| James Kern
| Network Administrator
| Kurt S. Adler, Inc.
| 1107 Broadway
| New York, NY 10010
| 212-924-0900 x222 (work)
| 212-807-0575 (fax)
| 908-451-6801 (cell)
| 800-209-7438 (pager)
| [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|
|
| -Original Message-
| From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Rairdin
| Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 12:03 PM
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RE: Sad day
|
|
| I sympathize with you, and certainly welcome your contributions to the hobby
| and to your local emergency services organizations (as if my welcome were
| necessary or even important).
|
| On the other hand, there are concepts on the written test that seemed like
| garbage to me no matter how much I studied. I have a computer science degree
| with lots of advanced math and engineering but some of the formulae and
| algorithms required for the Extra exam just leave me scratching my head.
|
| So my question is, should a bunch of us be able to get together and ask that
| all the technical requirements for ham licenses be dropped just because it's
| hard? That's what this no code thing sounds like to me. To me dropping the
| code and only having a written test is philosophically no different than
| dropping the written test and keeping the code.
|
| In the end, the hobby is changing. Other countries have dropped the code
| requirement. We should follow suit. It sounds like the tests have been
| steadily getting easier over the last 100 years. This is just the next step.
|
| As a CW-only, HF-only ham, I think this seems more ominous and wrong-headed
| to me than it does to others. I don't think other points of view are
| invalid, though. Just trying to make my opinions known. The guys who squeak
| by on a CW test just for the test's sake are probably never going to show up
| in the CW bands anyway so it may be a net zero loss for the practice of CW.
|
| I think I'll stop posting on this subject now. :-)
|
| Craig
|
|
| Original Message
| From: DAN ABBOTT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Sent: 07/21/05 10:41 AM
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Subject: [Elecraft] RE: Sad day -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= I have been
| reading the comments about the possibility of dropping the requirement for
| CW in order to advance your license. I have great respect for those who have
| passed the code test and one day I would like to be able to use CW, but it
| will take a converter and keyboard to accomplish the task. Let me explain. I
| built my K2/100 while trying to learn the code to achieve my General license
| [ it's been three months now] with absolutely no success, my K2 is now only
| a listening device. I have used Ham University and Your Introduction to
| Morse Code from ARRL with no success. If your familiar with the courses, I
| get to the letter L and when you add all the other letters to the sentence
| it sounds like garbage to me.
| I guess my question is, does it make you less of an operator not knowing CW?
| I have an EE degree, so there is no problem with the concepts and I am the
| Resources Coordinator for ARES/RACES for my county. When the FCC dropped the
| requirement for CW, that opened the door for me to be come a HAM and be able
| to do the Emergency work I do now. So why should it stop me from expanding
| and being of even more use to the community?
|
| 73's
|
| Dan N7DWA  K2/100 # 4775
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 PSK31? [how about FSK?]

2004-10-03 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Not REALLY being interested in SSB, I was fascinated by the I0CG conversion
for the K1, but only for PSK.  As far as a new rig from Elecraft, I'd be more
interested in one similar to the K1, but with CW and PSK capabilities.
Filter wise, possibly a frequency agile receiver filter bandpass
bandwidth (1.5 khz-.05 khz) and bandpass center frequency variable
over whatever the audio range would be (500-2500 Hz?)
{pipe dreams?}

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Julian, G4ILO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 PSK31? [how about FSK?]


| This could be accomplished with a K1 using I0CG's SSB modifications
| (http://it.geocities.com/giulianoi0cg/i0cg_home_page.html). It's a pity
| Elecraft didn't take this idea and create an official K1 SSB for those
| of us not brave enough to do it the hard way like I0CG.
|
| I suppose a multi-mode QRP rig in a KX1-sized package would be even
| cooler, but I guess it would need a lot of SMD circuitry to make it
| feasible.
| -- 
| Julian, G4ILO (RSGB, ARRL)
| G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo
|
| Doug Forman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
|
| I would also express my huge interest in a mini-qrp rig (KX1/K1/etc)
| that is multi-band with a built-in antenna tuner for digital modes
| (PSK-31/MFSK/etc).
|
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Re: [Elecraft] Multicore solder availability

2004-10-03 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I bought a pound about 6 months ago from a local distributor who does not
stock it anymore.  It was one of the last rolls they had.  I also bought a 
pound of
Kester 44.  I found the Multicore (says Made in USA) had a peculiar smell
and also didn't seem nearly as good as the old stuff I still have a bit of!

I haven't bought Kester in over 30 years and I must say the newest 44
stuff is very excellent!  After this experiance, I don't think I'll bother
trying to find the Multicore anymore as it's performance (new roll)
was somewhat disappointing compared with the old stuff.

Has anone else had this happen or is it a fluke?

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Mike S [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2004 8:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Multicore solder availability


| After finishing #4439, I'm getting low on solder. I've always used Ersin 
Multicore
(now part of Loctite), and got my last pound from Digi-Key, which doesn't stock 
it
anymore. Searching the archive, it seems that it's pretty hard to find a 
distributor
for Multicore these days. A bit of web searching found a supplier, with 
reasonable
prices and no minimum order. They seem to carry most of the Multicore wire 
solder:
|
| https://rshughes.com/catalog/129900.html
|
| They have the .020 63/37 WRAP3 fluxed stuff (MM00979) on which a group buy 
was done
last spring, for $9.50. WRAP3 appears to be an activated rosin flux. I've been 
pretty
happy with their Crystal 400 2% flux (MM01054), so I'm ordering a spool of 
that, for
the same price.
|
| Info on the Crystal 400 flux is here:
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/datasheets/Multicore/Solder%20Wire/No%20Clean/Crystal%20400,%20500,%20502,%20505%20%20511.pdf
|
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 1000 miles per watt

2004-10-01 Thread Sandy W5TVW
My greatest QRP thrill was quite a few years ago.  Had a Ten-Tec PM3A at
the time.  I managed to work a ZL in New Zealand on 20 meters with a dipole at
15'.  The output was around 3 watts.

Later with a Ten-Tec Argonaut (serial #61) I managed to work a whole bunch of
Pacific stuff one night.  Kwajelien Island, Caroline Islands, Hawaii, American 
Samoa
all on SSB with 3 watts PEP and a Newtronics  Hustler mobile antenna on
my old Ford Mustang.  That was quite a thrill!

You'd be surprised wjhat you can work if you are presistant!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Steve, G4GXL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Alan Dewey [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 1000 miles per watt


|  Where / how do I apply ?
|
| Congratulations !
| For award details take a look at -
| http://www.qrparci.org/arciawds.html
|
| 73
| Steve, G4GXL
| QRP-ARCI Webmaster
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] k1 and QRP Afield

2004-09-19 Thread Sandy W5TVW
That's always my biggest regret!  No 80 meters on the 4 band card!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 2:27 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] k1 and QRP Afield


| Hello to all that I worked yesterday in the QRP Afield contest.
|
| The K1 performed flawlessly in the field this Saturday.
|
| The only regret was that 80m was not on the bandswitch.
| .
|
| Jim - W1FMR
|
|
| Best Regards,
|
| Jim
|
|  I Don't eat snails...I prefer fast food.
|
|
|
|
|
|
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] Line into trees

2004-09-10 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I've had my best results with a 1 oz teardrop weight {painted dayglo orange!}
and a common spinning rod with 6lb monofilament line!  Usually I can
cast it over the limb of my choice in 2-3 tries.  Regularly get it over 50' plus
trees this way.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Trevor Day [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Line into trees


| In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], J F
| [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
|
| snip
| Somewhere I've seen a design for a compressed air
| tennis ball line throwing gun, which looks like it
| could be fun.
| 
| cheers,
| Julius
| n2wn
| 
| Although I haven't tried it, one of the larger variety of 'spud guns'
| may be useful for this.  I have one which fires a spud section around
| 200 yards when powered by 'high octane' hair spray :-)
|
| The problem would appear to be how to attach the line to the spud.
| Perhaps a light basket shaped mesh material loosely arranged over the
| muzzle of the gun with a light line attached.
|
| I have just done a swift 'google' , and plans for the combustion and
| compressed air versions can be found here http://tinyurl.com/44rwh  and
| at several other sites.
|
| Trev G3ZYY
| -- 
| Trevor Day
| SIP: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] using a freq standard for the K1

2004-08-12 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Only if it has  locked multivibrator circuitry in it to give you precision 
markers
at 100 Khz intervals.  Better yet 10 and 1 khz intervals.  Usually it is easy 
to add
a 'divide by 10' circuit externally using a common CMOS chip to get 1 mhz 
markers.
Add another one after that and get 100 khz markers, which will prove usually
quite adequate.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Lloyd Lachow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: List Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 10:35 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] using a freq standard for the K1


|I have a frequency standard by W8DIZ that generates
| a signal at 10MHz, 5MHz and 2.5 MHz.  Is there a way
| to use this for accurate calibration of the receiver
| in a 20/40M K1?
|
|LL
|
|
|
| __
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: SMT kits?

2004-08-10 Thread Sandy W5TVW
One reason I don't care with SMD stuff, is the cost of proper soldering 
gear for
them!  The Optivisor and magnafier florescent lamps I have, who can spend many
times more than a kit would cost for an SMD soldering station?
(Not to mention looking for missing parts on my unclean room workshop!!)

Big smile ;^)

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Frank C Van Cleef [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: SMT kits?


|
| With all due respect to those of us who have to squint ever harder to see
| what used to stand out
| clearly:  I, for one, would be delighted to have a kit based primarily on
| SMT devices to try my hand at.  I have a fine-tip iron and an Optovisor at
| hand, and I love to build kits, so if SMT is the coming thing, let's have at
| it!  It may not be everybody's cupp'a'tea but new things are interesting and
| exciting to try, and isn't that what it's all about?
|
| Perhaps a kit of, say, the K1's complexity to start with.  The TAPR project
| described below is a pretty big gulp to start with, so perhaps something a
| little less complicated would be in order for a first project.
| What say, Elecraft guru's, I bet the challenges of designing an SMT kit
| project would be exciting on your side as well!?
|
| 73 de W1WCG
| Frank Van Cleef
|
| - Original Message - 
| From: Richard T Perry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
| Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 5:29 AM
| Subject: [Elecraft] OT: SMT kits?
|
|
| Ok, folks - this is off topic, but since y'all have been a font of knowledge
| about kit building, I thought I would try this question...
|
| How hard is SMT soldering, really? I've been lusting after the TAPR Software
| Defined Radio kit,(http://www.tapr.org/tapr/html/Fdsp10.html) but it's
| majority SMT. I'm in my 30's, with fairly steady hands and decent vision...
| with the proper tools, should I be able to do this? Any experienced SMT
| builders out there got any pointers?
| Please respond to me directly - I'll summarize for the list later if there's
| interest.
|
| Now, for the other shoe - I just ordered a KX1 to go with my now almost 5
| year old K2 (#668). This should be fun!
|
| 73 DE KF4BAL/V73
| Richard Perry
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: SMT kits?

2004-08-10 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I have an old Ungar Princess that might work?  Someday I mat try SMD
out, but I suspect I'll sooner or later drop some parts and probably never find 
them!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: John Payne [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Frank C Van Cleef [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: SMT kits?


| Who needs an expensive soldering station for SMT?  I've built a couple of
| SMT projects with a standard soldering station (using a fine tip)with no
| problem.  If one looks for excuses, one can find them, and never do or learn
| anything new!  There are many cheap and easy tricks for SMT work, if one
| only cares to look a bit!
|
| 73 de John N4FLJ
| - Original Message - 
| From: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
|
|
|
|  One reason I don't care with SMD stuff, is the cost of proper
| soldering gear for
|  them!   Big smile ;^)
| 
|
|
|

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Re: [Elecraft] Long wire balun question

2004-08-02 Thread Sandy W5TVW
Have used vertically polarized antennas extensively in the field  with added
radials/counterpoise wires.  Usually laid on the ground.
Primarily QRP operations, where a small change can be detected readily!
I've found TWO radials the best compromise.  Big improvement over one!
Adding more give slight changes for the better, but nothing of a large 
difference.
I'd say four would be the maximum needed.  More is always better as regards
radilas, but after 4 the returns increasingly diminish.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: John Rader [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Long wire balun question


| Don,
| I currently have the antenna attached to a good earth ground and will add
| radials for each band per your suggestion. I understand that radials can
| significantly improve the efficiency of monopole antennas. Should I try to
| add more then one radial per band?
| Thanks,
| John K5XTX
|
| _
| Overwhelmed by debt? Find out how to ‘Dig Yourself Out of Debt’ from MSN
| Money. http://special.msn.com/money/0407debt.armx
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|

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