Re: [Elecraft] K1 BUILD ISSUES
Kent and all, The K1 needed to be discontinued because the enclosure metalwork was no longer available, and the cost for a new vendor to tool up was prohibitive. OTOH, the K2 is around and selling for just as long as possible. Procurement of thru-hole components becomes more difficult as manufacturers are switching to all SMD components. So far Elecraft has been able to provide suitable substitutes such as the SA612 IC mounted on a carrier board so it can be used in a thru-hole board. Other such substitutions will be coming in the future, but Elecraft is dedicated to keeping the K2 kit alive for as long as possible. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/12/2018 12:42 PM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote: Suspecting the K1 and K2 kits are probably not long for this Earth, I bought both last Fall with the intent of building the K1 this Spring and the K2 this summer. A close friend talked me out of my KX1 a while back which, for some reason, resurrected an urge to build again. I've built all the mini-modules and the big rigs, but screw-driver assembly isn't nearly as satisfying as solder-assembly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K1 BUILD ISSUES
The following two issues arose during a K1 build that, while obvious to some, weren't to me, and probably wouldn't be to many . . . (1) Even though the Errata sheet says trimmer caps C13 and C20 "may look different from what is shown", the trimmer caps shipped with recent K1 kits not only look different, they are structurally different in that they have no "flattened" side which is the indicator for how they are to be mounted. However, continuity testing between the tuning slot (the metallic tab that the screw driver turns) and each contact leg will reveal that the leg with the continuity is the same as the "flattened" end. I would have guessed it was the leg with the dab of red paint but I would have been wrong. (2) At first I thought I was missing eight 0.1mf capacitors said to be labeled "104." A strip of eight, blue, square components with no "104" was remaining in the RF board bag, and I eventually surmised they constituted the missing capacitors, although they looked different from any capacitor I had ever seen in my 58 years in the hobby. My thanks to Don Wilhelm for saving me a lot of extra work. Suspecting the K1 and K2 kits are probably not long for this Earth, I bought both last Fall with the intent of building the K1 this Spring and the K2 this summer. A close friend talked me out of my KX1 a while back which, for some reason, resurrected an urge to build again. I've built all the mini-modules and the big rigs, but screw-driver assembly isn't nearly as satisfying as solder-assembly. 73, Kent Trimble, K9ZTV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
Hi Don, You nailed it!? Lesson learned on my part.? There was a difference in voltages between pins 4 and 5 of RP5 and pin 5 of U1.? I cleaned up around RP5, R19 and R20 and reflowed the solder connections with no real change in symptoms.? I lifted the key jack from the board.? Although I could see nothing with my eyes on the board, when I swabbed the area with a Q tip and Isopropyl the Q tip turned bright red. The loss of transmit I noted turn out to be a loss of both transmit and receive.? I was on the dummy load so didn't notice how quiet the receiver was until I switched to an antenna.? Apparently a relay got hung up in all the electronic commotion.? I cycled the band switch and everything popped back to life when I came back to band 1. I disassembled the rig and gave each board a good cleaning and didn't find anymore red stuff. It's all back together now and working fine. Thanks. Chuck K4QS -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: cstove...@aol.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 9:38 am Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues Chuck,? ? Flux cleaners are *not* recommended for that very reason. The flux residue by itself is non-conductive, but when combined with a cleaner, it can create high resistance (leakage) paths unless it is completely removed. Flushing an area with cleaner is almost certain to cause trouble, and can result in 'mysterious behaviors' that are hard to track down and expensive repairs.? ? If a builder finds a need to remove the flux, it is best done using a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol working only in small areas at a time.? ? 73,? Don W3FPR? ? cstove...@aol.com wrote:? Hi Don,? ? Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.? I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it back together and it worked fine.? ? The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.? Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate.? ? At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck.? ? Thanks.? ? 73,? Chuck K4QS? ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
Chuck, Glad to hear of your success. Enjoy that K1. 73, Don W3FPR cstove...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don, You nailed it!? Lesson learned on my part.? There was a difference in voltages between pins 4 and 5 of RP5 and pin 5 of U1.? I cleaned up around RP5, R19 and R20 and reflowed the solder connections with no real change in symptoms.? I lifted the key jack from the board.? Although I could see nothing with my eyes on the board, when I swabbed the area with a Q tip and Isopropyl the Q tip turned bright red. The loss of transmit I noted turn out to be a loss of both transmit and receive.? I was on the dummy load so didn't notice how quiet the receiver was until I switched to an antenna.? Apparently a relay got hung up in all the electronic commotion.? I cycled the band switch and everything popped back to life when I came back to band 1. I disassembled the rig and gave each board a good cleaning and didn't find anymore red stuff. It's all back together now and working fine. Thanks. Chuck K4QS -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: cstove...@aol.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 9:38 am Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues Chuck,? ? Flux cleaners are *not* recommended for that very reason. The flux residue by itself is non-conductive, but when combined with a cleaner, it can create high resistance (leakage) paths unless it is completely removed. Flushing an area with cleaner is almost certain to cause trouble, and can result in 'mysterious behaviors' that are hard to track down and expensive repairs.? ? If a builder finds a need to remove the flux, it is best done using a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol working only in small areas at a time.? ? 73,? Don W3FPR? ? cstove...@aol.com wrote:? Hi Don,? ? Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.? I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it back together and it worked fine.? ? The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.? Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate.? ? At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck.? ? Thanks.? ? 73,? Chuck K4QS? ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.59/2064 - Release Date: 04/17/09 07:08:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
Chuck, Make certain you have a dummy load connected to the K1 (it is transmitting) and continually tap the WPM- button to try to lower the power level for the testing that you need to do. Theory: The K1 uses one MCU pin (KEYIN) as an analog input to determine whether the dot paddle, dash paddle or both have been closed. The resistors that determine the 3 levels are on the RF Board. R19, R20, and 2 sections of RP5. The voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RP5 will determine the static voltage of all points in the circuit. What to do: Measure the voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RF Board RP5 and compare with the voltage at Front Panel U1 pin 5. They should be the very close to the same voltage. If not, check the values of R19 and R20 and re-flow the soldering of RP5, R19 and R20. If you had ever attempted to clean the flux from your K1, that could be the cause. If some flux cleaner residue wicked up under the key jack, it can create a leakage path which would explain your problem. The only cure is to remove the key jack and clean both the board area under the jack and the bottom of the key jack. It is conceivable that the key jack itself could have some kind of leakage path inside. To check, you will have to remove the key jack and replace it if necessary. Do the solder re-flow first - a bad connection can work fine for a while, and then fail later after a bit of oxidation occurs. If that does not cure it, remove the key jack and check again with the jack out. Replace the key jack if required. 73, Don W3FPR cstove...@aol.com wrote: My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been working flawlessly ever since. A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message, stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver, but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it off a supply at 13.6VDC.? A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still open. I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated. Chuck? K4QS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.57/2060 - Release Date: 04/15/09 06:34:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
Hi Don, Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.? I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it back together and it worked fine. The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.? Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate. At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck. Thanks. 73,? Chuck K4QS -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: cstove...@aol.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 8:47 am Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues Chuck,? ? Make certain you have a dummy load connected to the K1 (it is transmitting) and continually tap the WPM- button to try to lower the power level for the testing that you need to do.? ? Theory:? The K1 uses one MCU pin (KEYIN) as an analog input to determine whether the dot paddle, dash paddle or both have been closed. The resistors that determine the 3 levels are on the RF Board.? R19, R20, and 2 sections of RP5. The voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RP5 will determine the static voltage of all points in the circuit.? ? What to do:? Measure the voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RF Board RP5 and compare with the voltage at Front Panel U1 pin 5. They should be the very close to the same voltage. If not, check the values of R19 and R20 and re-flow the soldering of RP5, R19 and R20.? ? If you had ever attempted to clean the flux from your K1, that could be the cause. If some flux cleaner residue wicked up under the key jack, it can create a leakage path which would explain your problem. The only cure is to remove the key jack and clean both the board area under the jack and the bottom of the key jack.? ? It is conceivable that the key jack itself could have some kind of leakage path inside. To check, you will have to remove the key jack and replace it if necessary.? ? Do the solder re-flow first - a bad connection can work fine for a while, and then fail later after a bit of oxidation occurs. If that does not cure it, remove the key jack and check again with the jack out. Replace the key jack if required.? ? 73,? Don W3FPR? ? cstove...@aol.com wrote:? My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been working flawlessly ever since.? ? A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message, stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver, but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it off a supply at 13.6VDC.? ? A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still open.? ? I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated.? ? Chuck? K4QS __? Elecraft mailing list? Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft? Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm? Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.net? ? This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net? Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html? ? ? ? No virus found in this incoming message.? Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.57/2060 - Release Date: 04/15/09 06:34:00? ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
Chuck, Flux cleaners are *not* recommended for that very reason. The flux residue by itself is non-conductive, but when combined with a cleaner, it can create high resistance (leakage) paths unless it is completely removed. Flushing an area with cleaner is almost certain to cause trouble, and can result in 'mysterious behaviors' that are hard to track down and expensive repairs. If a builder finds a need to remove the flux, it is best done using a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol working only in small areas at a time. 73, Don W3FPR cstove...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don, Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.? I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it back together and it worked fine. The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.? Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate. At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck. Thanks. 73,? Chuck K4QS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues
I read Chuck's description of his problem, and I thought, What in the world? Don Wilhelm deserves a round of applause for this diagnosis. Peter N8MHD On 4/16/09, cstove...@aol.com cstove...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don, Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.? I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it back together and it worked fine. The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.? Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate. At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck. Thanks. 73,? Chuck K4QS -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: cstove...@aol.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 8:47 am Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues Chuck,? ? Make certain you have a dummy load connected to the K1 (it is transmitting) and continually tap the WPM- button to try to lower the power level for the testing that you need to do.? ? Theory:? The K1 uses one MCU pin (KEYIN) as an analog input to determine whether the dot paddle, dash paddle or both have been closed. The resistors that determine the 3 levels are on the RF Board.? R19, R20, and 2 sections of RP5. The voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RP5 will determine the static voltage of all points in the circuit.? ? What to do:? Measure the voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RF Board RP5 and compare with the voltage at Front Panel U1 pin 5. They should be the very close to the same voltage. If not, check the values of R19 and R20 and re-flow the soldering of RP5, R19 and R20.? ? If you had ever attempted to clean the flux from your K1, that could be the cause. If some flux cleaner residue wicked up under the key jack, it can create a leakage path which would explain your problem. The only cure is to remove the key jack and clean both the board area under the jack and the bottom of the key jack.? ? It is conceivable that the key jack itself could have some kind of leakage path inside. To check, you will have to remove the key jack and replace it if necessary.? ? Do the solder re-flow first - a bad connection can work fine for a while, and then fail later after a bit of oxidation occurs. If that does not cure it, remove the key jack and check again with the jack out. Replace the key jack if required.? ? 73,? Don W3FPR? ? cstove...@aol.com wrote:? My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been working flawlessly ever since.? ? A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message, stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver, but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it off a supply at 13.6VDC.? ? A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still open.? ? I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated.? ? Chuck? K4QS __? Elecraft mailing list? Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft? Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm? Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.net? ? This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net? Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html? ? ? ? No virus found in this incoming message.? Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.57/2060 - Release Date: 04/15/09 06:34:00? ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K1 with Issues: Don to the rescue!!!
I agree... Don is amazing! I look for his comments even if I don't have any issues. Hats off to Don!! 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods ATS-3B -Original Message- Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues I read Chuck's description of his problem, and I thought, What in the world? Don Wilhelm deserves a round of applause for this diagnosis. Peter N8MHD On 4/16/09, cstove...@aol.com cstove...@aol.com wrote: Hi Don, Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't Measure the voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RF Board RP5 and compare with the voltage at Front Panel U1 pin 5. They should be the very close to the same voltage. If not, check the values of R19 and R20 and re-flow the soldering of RP5, R19 and R20.? ? If you had ever attempted to clean the flux from your K1, that could be the cause. If some flux cleaner residue wicked up under the key jack, it can create a leakage path which would explain your problem. The only cure is to remove the key jack and clean both the board area under the jack and the bottom of the key jack.? ? It is conceivable that the key jack itself could have some kind of leakage path inside. To check, you will have to remove the key jack and replace it if necessary.? ? Do the solder re-flow first - a bad connection can work fine for a while, and then fail later after a bit of oxidation occurs. If that does not cure it, remove the key jack and check again with the jack out. Replace the key jack if required.? ? 73,? Don W3FPR? ? cstove...@aol.com wrote:? My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been working flawlessly ever since.? ? A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message, stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver, but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it off a supply at 13.6VDC.? ? A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still open.? ? I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated.? ? Chuck? K4QS __? Elecraft mailing list? Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft? Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm? Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.net? ? This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net? Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html? ? ? ? No virus found in this incoming message.? Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.57/2060 - Release Date: 04/15/09 06:34:00? ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K1 with Issues
My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been working flawlessly ever since. A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message, stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver, but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it off a supply at 13.6VDC.? A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still open. I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated. Chuck? K4QS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Issues
Is there any way that I can use one of the programs that turn the PC sound card into a signal generator to inject some amount of noise into the radio at various points for testing? I'm not confident in my very rudimentary antenna, and while I understand that the sound card can't output at a receivable freq, perhaps it can cause some noise that I can hear on the phones... ? Any ideas? Randall -- Original message -- From: Randall H. Sanborn [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am completely new to amateur radio, the K1 is my first xcvr, and I don't even have my license yet. I have recently completed the assembly of my K1 and I'm not able to pick anything up on the receiver. I worked with someone on the #hamradio channel at irc.freenode.net, and hopefully we've narrowed some things down. I will attempt to explain what we've looked at so far with my butchered lack of understanding. I've tested all the toroids for continuity and they all check out, and I've also gone through the and filter baord portions of the voltage tables, and those check out as well. With some quick and dirty signal tracing (30ft of wire with a probe on the end), I tried inputing rf into various points in the circuit. I got responses at the following points, all on the rf board: U2 Pin 1 C38 X4, the leg connected to C38 I didn't get any response at the following points on the rf board: C39 X1-X4 (except for X4 mentioned above) Checked the voltages on D6-8 and they are all installed and working properly. Any ideas where I should look next? Randall H. Sanborn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Issues
The best antenna I have is a piece of wire about 30ft long with a 100pF cap on the end as mentioned in the article. I tried U1 pin 1, and get nothing. I suppose that would indicate a problem...but I'm not sure where. Not much point in going backward, because anything behind that will certainly be stopped there. Any ideas? Randall -- Original message -- From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Randall: At best Ive been getting some quiet popping noises...I occasionally heard some hums, but I think that is some bleed-in from my work area, and not quite so much to do with something coming in from the antenna. I put the bottom cover back on to try and isolate it from the table and any frequencies coming through it, and the hum is gone, and I cant hear anything now. I think all the antenna was doing was bleeding out that errant signal. It was probably providing a VERY small amount of signal which was able to sneak thru the product detector and into the AF Amp. Perhaps its time to introduce myself to some local hams and see if I can't get some help, and perhaps a signal gen. It NEVER hurts to get to know your 'locals'... sometimes you'll find someone who is very knowledgeable and quite willing to help a newbie. However... FIRST try using the techniques (and test points) in my article. You first want to try to confirm that everything from the Receive Mixer on thru the AF Amp is working. So try injecting an off-the-air signal, even if it's only 40M noise, at U1 pin 1. IF you hear noise in the speaker, then go to pin 1 of T1, and then to pins 8 3 (in that order) of K1. Each time you CAN hear a signal, as long as it's relatively the same (or higher) level as that which you heard from a prior injection point, there's a good chance that things are still OK to that point. You want to work your way from the INSIDE of the circuit out toward the ANT input. If you find an injection point where the signal really drops (or completely disappears) THAT's where you want to try to find out why... the loss should be between THAT point and the last known good point. This is quick and easy to do and may save you having to find someone locally for help... though it's STILL good to get to know the locals. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Issues
Randall, Is this a K1 with the 2 band board or with the 4 band board? The Pre-mixer and the bandpass filter must be tuned before you will hear much of anything. Since you have no strong signal source (like another transceiver that you can operate into a dummy load) to help you tune the Pre-mixer and the bandpass, things are a bit more difficult. I would suggest that you start by constructing an RF probe to help you adjust the Pre-mixer. There is a schematic for an RF probe in the Troubleshooting section of the K1 manual. If you choose to do it that way, I can give you some pointers about how to go about preliminary adjustments (that procedure is not in the manual) - so let me know if you have an RF probe available or have built one and we can continue. It is normal to have a significant dropoff in signal level between the input to the product detector and the remainder of the filter crystals because the filter itself is restricting the RF fed through it to the center frequency of the filter - that fact is not present at the filter output (C38 to X4 junction) because there the product detector can respond to the full RF spectrum input rather than just the 4913 kHz slice of the spectrum. 73, Don W3FPR Randall H. Sanborn wrote: I am completely new to amateur radio, the K1 is my first xcvr, and I don't even have my license yet. I have recently completed the assembly of my K1 and I'm not able to pick anything up on the receiver. I worked with someone on the #hamradio channel at irc.freenode.net, and hopefully we've narrowed some things down. I will attempt to explain what we've looked at so far with my butchered lack of understanding. I've tested all the toroids for continuity and they all check out, and I've also gone through the and filter baord portions of the voltage tables, and those check out as well. With some quick and dirty signal tracing (30ft of wire with a probe on the end), I tried inputing rf into various points in the circuit. I got responses at the following points, all on the rf board: U2 Pin 1 C38 X4, the leg connected to C38 I didn't get any response at the following points on the rf board: C39 X1-X4 (except for X4 mentioned above) Checked the voltages on D6-8 and they are all installed and working properly. Any ideas where I should look next? Randall H. Sanborn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Receiver Issues
I am completely new to amateur radio, the K1 is my first xcvr, and I don't even have my license yet. I have recently completed the assembly of my K1 and I'm not able to pick anything up on the receiver. I worked with someone on the #hamradio channel at irc.freenode.net, and hopefully we've narrowed some things down. I will attempt to explain what we've looked at so far with my butchered lack of understanding. I've tested all the toroids for continuity and they all check out, and I've also gone through the and filter baord portions of the voltage tables, and those check out as well. With some quick and dirty signal tracing (30ft of wire with a probe on the end), I tried inputing rf into various points in the circuit. I got responses at the following points, all on the rf board: U2 Pin 1 C38 X4, the leg connected to C38 I didn't get any response at the following points on the rf board: C39 X1-X4 (except for X4 mentioned above) Checked the voltages on D6-8 and they are all installed and working properly. Any ideas where I should look next? Randall H. Sanborn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
