[Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack
For beaucoup power from a KX1, you can use a 4S1P A123 pack, and even recharge it remotely with a small solar panel and a Genasun controller. Mine puts out well over 5 watts with this setup, however Wayne has said this much power can endanger the finals. So far, no problems. It is a bit bulky, but pretty light. This way, you maintain the ability to use internal Lithium AAs when you positively need the lightest possible setup. 73 Eric WD6DBM Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Matt, I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a new housing too. See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing. It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just have to assemble it even with all new parts. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing the batteries? ... Matt On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a new housing too. See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing. It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just have to assemble it even with all new parts. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __**__**__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- matthancock.blogspot.com twitter.com/mwhancock ac9bq http://www.qrz.com/db/AC9BQ (773) 609-1697 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Matt, If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones. There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual. If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool. The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free. When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board. Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly. There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing. You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing the batteries? ... Matt On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a new housing too. See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing. It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just have to assemble it even with all new parts. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __**__**__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back. Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening up in the future! ... Matt Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones. There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual. If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool. The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free. When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board. Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly. There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing. You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing the batteries? ... Matt On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a new housing too. See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing. It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just have to assemble it even with all new parts. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __**__**__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Matt, If your wire leads are more than 1.5 inches long, the original builder did not dress the wires under the battery holders correctly. refer to the manual instructions for the battery holder installation for the proper way to route the battery wires. Properly routed, the connector pulls off when you remove the back cover, and it is easy to put back on its mating connector after you change the batteries. If the wires are not routed properly, you have to fuss with them every time you remove/replace the back cover. Yes,many builders have trouble with not only the proper installation of the crimp pins, but also the routing of the battery wires. My method is to mount the right battery holder, then push its red wire under the holder (up to the point where the heat-shrink has been added), then hold the black wire from the left battery holder under the holder in approximately the correct position and fasten that holder loosely with the screw closest to the edge of the cover. Now, you can fiddle with the wires - the black one from the right holder is routed around the corner of the holder - that is usually not a problem. The black wire from the right holder is routed outside the black wire from the left one, and goes behind the mounting foot projection - you can lift the edge of the battery holder a bit and slide a thin screwdriver point in to position that wire. The short red wire from the left holder goes under the holder and behind the round tab, exiting the battery holder about the same place as the black wire. Look at the diagram in the manual. If your wires are not routed like that, I strongly recommend you arrange then that way - they will give you fewer problems in the future. On 8/9/2012 6:25 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back. Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening up in the future! ... Matt Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones. There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual. If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool. The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free. When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board. Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly. There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing. You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing the batteries? ... Matt On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a new housing too. See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing. It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just have to assemble it even with all new parts. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote: Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __**__**__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back, you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach to new wires. When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the connection. My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and replacing it is no problem at all. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Hancock Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 3:26 PM To: d...@w3fpr.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back. Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening up in the future! ... Matt Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Matt, If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones. There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual. If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool. The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free. When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board. Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly. There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing. You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide. 73, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Of course, Ron is correct, those crimp pins can be removed from the housing, but I have seen many that had the crimp pins mangled so neither the crimp pins nor the housing were able to be salvaged. As far as removing the back without popping the connector, yes, it can be done, but the connector is so easy to put back on, and it takes a lot of care to keep it connected, I just simplify and remove the connector when the back is removed. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/9/2012 6:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back, you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach to new wires. When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the connection. My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and replacing it is no problem at all. 73, Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke
Hi there, I recently purchased a slightly used KX1. Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the transceiver. Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one? 73, Matt, AC9BQ Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!
I found the same in the KX1 kit I've just finished - they were way too short to do the job any which way I tried. I finished by replacing them with longer steel fittings and hex nuts. It made me wonder whether the screws in my kit were the wrong spec, or whether the profile of the plastic battery holders had changed. Either way, I found a fix that works. Took me a while before I would believe that the supplied screws just weren't going to do it! A lot of fiddling and futile attempts at grinding down the nubs on the holders. 73 John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-battery-holder-screws-too-short-tp7557213p7557235.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!
Yes grinding down the nubs on the holders would allow another thread or two, but eliminates the room under the holder for the wires. I considered milling down the screw area from the top of the holder, but that would decrease the meat between the holder and the nub. They are just the wrong screws. The parts list says 1/8 inch length which is .125 inch, but they are actually about .102 inch or so from the underside of the pan head. Another .050 or .060 is required to do the job properly. An additional item I have is the sanding or scraping of the paint around the screw holes. I guess it's not too much to ask, but all the time you do it, you remember the wonderful tape over those areas on some of the other Elecraft products cabinets. I found that a #15 scalpel worked best for me, the sand paper is just too awful looking after getting down thru the paint. Would I pay an extra $50 if Elecraft paid the painters to tape those areas? I think I would, but I wouldn't know it :) Scraping the paint on the W2 case holes was painful as well. Chuck, KE9UW aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of VK7JB [zen...@netspace.net.au] Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 2:46 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short! I found the same in the KX1 kit I've just finished - they were way too short to do the job any which way I tried. I finished by replacing them with longer steel fittings and hex nuts. It made me wonder whether the screws in my kit were the wrong spec, or whether the profile of the plastic battery holders had changed. Either way, I found a fix that works. Took me a while before I would believe that the supplied screws just weren't going to do it! A lot of fiddling and futile attempts at grinding down the nubs on the holders. 73 John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-battery-holder-screws-too-short-tp7557213p7557235.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!
Chuck, Yes - grinding down the nubs was a bad move. I didn't measure my screws, but they were too short to even get one turn into the threaded hole. Like you, I suspect they are just too short for the job. To remove the paint from the case, I found the easiest way was to use a Dremel tool with a fine wire brush. I've used that method before on other projects requiring similar surgery. Makes For pretty quick work compared with sanding. Another effective way is to use those long, industrial strength emery boards that beauticians use for filing down women's acrylic fingernails. They are long, flat and flexible and rip through paint and lacquer coatings in a flash. They're also great for removing enamel coating from toroid wire if you don't want to crank up the soldering iron to burn it off. I use them a lot and a friend who is in the industry keeps me in supply. 73 John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-battery-holder-screws-too-short-tp7557213p7557239.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!
It is unfortunate, but screw manufacturers do not specify tolerances on the length of the screws, so yes, the length will vary from batch to batch. If the 1/8 inch screws were really 1/8 inch long, there would be no problem. Since I build and repair a number of KX1s, I have ordered some black 2-56 x 3/16 inch screws and some black 2-56 nuts from McMaster-Carr just for the purpose of repairing loose battery holders. You can order from the same source, but you have to order a box of 100. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/7/2012 9:05 AM, VK7JB wrote: Chuck, Yes - grinding down the nubs was a bad move. I didn't measure my screws, but they were too short to even get one turn into the threaded hole. Like you, I suspect they are just too short for the job. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!
The supplied screws have about 0.1 inches of thread. The battery holders use up most of that save about one thread to screw into the bottom cover. Not enough. I would like about 0.15 or 0.16 inches which is what I used. Works great. Uses all the threads in the bottom cover. Small issue, but frustrating finding suitable 2-56 screws...any one like to try finding them at your local Best Hardware store? 4-40, yes, 2-56 no! - Chuck, KE9UW -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-battery-holder-screws-too-short-tp7557213.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] kx1 battery
Just a quick question, my cell phone uses a lithium Ion battery that is 3.7 volts at 1100mAh, four would do 14.8 volts and would be much smaller than AA batteries. I think you could actually fit 6 in the space of 6 AA batteries. Is 14.8 volts to much for a KX1? Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] kx1 battery
Brett, The KX1 is speced up to 14 volts, so you are a bit on the high side. You could use a couple diodes in series with the batteries to drop the voltage level if you can fit everything inside the case. I will go out on a limb (and Wayne might correct me too G) and say that the most susceptable part to increased supply voltage is the Zener diode in the PA collector circuit. That diode is there to protect the PA transistor from high levels of peak RF voltage that can result with a high SWR - so you may get away with the higher supply voltage if you keep the power down closer to 3 watts (adjust R4 for lower output) rather than trying to push for 4 watts or more. 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: Just a quick question, my cell phone uses a lithium Ion battery that is 3.7 volts at 1100mAh, four would do 14.8 volts and would be much smaller than AA batteries. I think you could actually fit 6 in the space of 6 AA batteries. Is 14.8 volts to much for a KX1? Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery
In a message dated 22/04/05 19:50:27 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I had a 33 Ohm resistor of 5W in stock which was only 0,3 inch, so it fits very nicely. I have mounted it on the component side of the pcb, otherwise it gets in the way of the battery! The result is very positive, it charges nicely. I have mounted a timer in line with the charging supply, an old Nokia 12V GSM supply, to avoid overcharging as I read that NiMh cells dont like that. Reply: --- Hi Dick, Yes, that method will work and is used in most simple hand held radio battery chargers to limit the charge current. However to get the best life out of NiCad and NiMh cells/batteries I have always understood that they should be charged under constant current conditions at the recommended rate given with the cells or battery. The series resistor method does limit the maximum current though may partially fall down on not providing a constant current. There are several methods of providing a constant current, the most common being to use a voltage regulator with a series resistor providing feedback. I use an earlier method with two transistors and two resistors that is easily adapted to any required constant current and will cope with a wide range of input voltages. Not sure how the charging of the KX1 is configured so your options may be limited. Contact me off the list if you need the two transistor schematic. Gross Overcharging of *any* rechargeable cell/battery is always a problem resulting in heat generation and eventual destruction of the cells unless this is limited to a charge rate of 2.5% or less of battery capacity. I had something like 400 UHF HH to maintain at an oil terminal/gas plant and apart from the operators using the radios instead of a hammer, the main problem was gross overcharging which could lead to failure of the battery in as little time as a year. Some automatic chargers received more recently were the answer to this problem, though these are even today far from being widely available. Time limiting the charge will work as long as the battery is fully discharged to start with. A partly discharged battery subjected to a full charge cycle will only dissipate the resultant continuation of charge after full charge is reached as heat. Note that all modern cellular mobile telephones are fitted with an automatic charger to get maximum recharging life from the battery. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 battery
Hi all, Some days ago I posted a message regarding the charging of NiMh battery's. I got only one reaction, so I guess many are wondering what is a good way! I decided to go for the experimental way and did the following: - Measure the supply voltage, we call that U1; - Measure the battery voltage in charged situation, we call that U2; - Take U1-U2 and devide that over the charging current you want to use. In case of my 2400 mA/h cells I decided for a conservative 200 mA; - The result is the resistor value, in my case about 33 Ohm; - Take the square of U1-U2 and devide over R and you have the power, in my case between one and 2W. I had a 33 Ohm resistor of 5W in stock which was only 0,3 inch, so it fits very nicely. I have mounted it on the component side of the pcb, otherwise it gets in the way of the battery! The result is very positive, it charges nicely. I have mounted a timer in line with the charging supply, an old Nokia 12V GSM supply, to avoid overcharging as I read that NiMh cells dont like that. Have fun! Oh and by the way; modifying is at your own risk and will probably violate the warranty. Or perhaps Wayne and Eric find it such a good idea that they will allow it ;) 73, Dick PA2DW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery
I for one would at least like to hear if someone see any remote problem with this type of mod? KI4DGH Chuck From: Dick Harms PA2DW [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/04/22 Fri PM 01:49:12 CDT To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 battery Hi all, Some days ago I posted a message regarding the charging of NiMh battery's. I got only one reaction, so I guess many are wondering what is a good way! I decided to go for the experimental way and did the following: - Measure the supply voltage, we call that U1; - Measure the battery voltage in charged situation, we call that U2; - Take U1-U2 and devide that over the charging current you want to use. In case of my 2400 mA/h cells I decided for a conservative 200 mA; - The result is the resistor value, in my case about 33 Ohm; - Take the square of U1-U2 and devide over R and you have the power, in my case between one and 2W. I had a 33 Ohm resistor of 5W in stock which was only 0,3 inch, so it fits very nicely. I have mounted it on the component side of the pcb, otherwise it gets in the way of the battery! The result is very positive, it charges nicely. I have mounted a timer in line with the charging supply, an old Nokia 12V GSM supply, to avoid overcharging as I read that NiMh cells dont like that. Have fun! Oh and by the way; modifying is at your own risk and will probably violate the warranty. Or perhaps Wayne and Eric find it such a good idea that they will allow it ;) 73, Dick PA2DW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery
Does anyone of you have experience charging Ni-Mh cells in the KX1? I have 2400 mA/h cells installed and if I am right, a 33 Ohm resistor accross D3, would charge these cells in app. 10 hours. I saw Paul W0RW's post awhile ago about his Ni-CAd battery mod. I don't know or understand very much about the actual theory behind rechargable batteries. It is my understanding that Ni-Mh maintain a higher voltage for a longer period without the memory of Ni-CAD. It would seem that having Ni-Mh would be a more practical option for power as compared to the standard Ni-CAD option. 73, KI4DGH Chuck G. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
