Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Thom,

The 80 kHz or 150 kHz is the range for all bands.
For most bands, the active CW portion is within the first 80 kHz of the 
lower band edge, so there is no need to be concerned about which crystal 
will be used.


However, on 30 meters, if you choose to use the 18.000 MHz crystal so 
you can tune to WWV at 10.000 MHz, then with the VFO tuning range of 80 
kHz, you will tune from 10.000 to 10.080 kHz which is always below the 
30 meter ham band (10.100 to 10.150).  So if you choose the 80 kHz VFO 
range, you must use the 18.100 MHz crystal so the tuning is from 10.100 
to 10.180 MHz (greater than the 30 meter band high frequency).


If you choose to use the 150 kHz VFO range, you will want to use the 
18.000 MHz 30 meter crystal since you can tune to WWV on the low end and 
also tune the entire 30 meter ham band since the high frequency on 30 
meters will be 10.150 MHz or greater.


With the 150 kHz VFO tuning range, the tuning will be a bit more 
"touchy" than with the 80 kHz range because each turn on the VFO knob 
covers twice the frequency variation.


The choice is yours.
Looking at it the 'other way around' - if you want to cover the 40 meter 
band from 7.000 to 7.150 MHz to work those stations that  work in the 
old novice portion of 40 meters, then you would choose the 150 kHz 
option.  It does not matter much on other bands (except 30 meters) 
because most CW activity is in the lower 80 kHz of the band.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/12/2017 11:23 PM, Thom wrote:

Howdy All,

Started building my Elecraft K1 this evening.  All is going well, so 
far,  with the KFL1-2 board.  Just finished installing all components up 
to the toroids on the 40 meter band.


I am confused about the 80 Khz or 150 Khz tuning range setting.

Is this for 30 meters only or for every band?

I installed the 15.000 Mhz crystal for 40 meters at X1.  Will the tuning 
range be 80 Khz or 150 khz?


The manual says the most used portion of every band for the 80 khz setting.

I am confused about how to set that on the 40 meter band.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Wes (N7WS)]

Looking at the KAT-1 manual, it appears that NT 2 has the capacitor on the 
antenna side of the tuner.  I'm guessing that X10 means just that; whatever 
value displayed x10. If you can do the parallel/series math to derived the Z 
looking back into the tuner then go here: http://ac6la.com/tldetails1.html and 
down load the program.  This will do the transformation for you for the coax 
cable.  Just be sure to get the direction correct. (R & X at the input)  Once 
you have the antenna Z determined, you can use these values for the load and 
change the length of coax and see what you get.  Remember that the first answer 
is the conjugate of the antenna Z.


Regardless, use a 1:1 current balun.

Wes  N7WS




On 9/28/2015 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman wrote:

Does anybody have a “worked example” of how to use the L and C values reported 
by the K1 internal antenna tuner to analyze an antenna? I feel pretty guilty 
asking this, because it’s sort of a “please help me do my homework” question. 
And I am supposed to know how to do this homework.  :-)

I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 tuner 
will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or no 
balun, at the antenna.

If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight reading 
suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide so 
little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could 
240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?

Next, I need to figure out the circuit. If the tuner reports nt 2, I think that 
means that the coil is next to the tuner’s antenna connector, and the 
capacitance is in parallel with the radio connector. I guess that is designed 
to be 50 ohms of pure resistance, so I have a nice little circuit with one of 
each part. I can figure out the various reactances, etc., and combine them, but 
am not sure I’m doing it right. That should give me the reactance at the 
tuner’s antenna connector.

Then I have about 12 feet of RG-8x coax, so I can use a Smith chart to work out 
how the reactance at the tuners’s antenna connector is transformed to the 
antenna connection, but there is always the confusion about which way to go 
around the outside of the chart. And then take into account the 4:1 balun 
that’s on there. In theory, all of this should tell me the antenna's impedance 
at the point where the balun connects, which should suggest whether it would be 
better to use a 1:1 balun instead.

Does anybody have an example of this sort of calculation? I have looked in the 
Antenna Handbook and other sources and they all dance around it; I’m looking 
for something practical and cookbook-like.

Or I could spring for a 1:1 balun and try it.  :-)

Thanks!

Doug, W0UHU.




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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[John Pierce]

​Doug,

You might consider using a remote antenna tuner, like the SGC-230.  I 've
used them for several all band antenna's, horizontal and vertical, and they
have worked quite well for me.  Here is a link to some interesting and
thorough explanations and suggestions from SGC about various types and
considerations regarding all band antenna's incorporating a remote tuner at
the antenna feed point.

http://www.sgcworld.com/technicalInfoPage.html

A somewhat less expensive remote tuner is the GC-3000.  (I read somewhere
that this is the same as the MFJ remote tuner, but I'm not sure about
that.)  I own one of those and it works almost as well as the SGC tuner.
It just doesn't seem to have quite the matching range as the SGC tuner.
This means you might have more band segments with a 1.5:1 or 1.7:1 match
instead of a 1.1:1.

John K7KEY



On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Douglas Hagerman 
wrote:

> Hi Don.
>
> Thanks for the comments!
>
> There is a good article about all this in the June 2015 issue of QST. My
> problem is that I can’t use open line because I have to go 100 feet,
> threaded through apartment rooms, to get from the antenna to the radio. So
> it has to be coax, and as you say, the ideal situation would be to have a
> balanced signal at 50 ohms at the antenna, connected to the coax, which
> would not be acting as a transformer because of the good match at the
> antenna end, and then feeding into the tuner which would say “good, it’s 50
> ohms of resistive impedance at this end!” and not do anything.
>
> Or I could throw a piece of wire off the balcony and hope that the
> pot-smoking hippie downstairs doesn’t freak out when he sees it.  :-)
>
> Doug, W0UHU.
>
>
>
>
> > On 28Sep, 2015, at 8:38 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> >
> > Sorry for the blank response.  Blame it on late night 'fumble fingers'.
> >
> > While 'common logic' will say to match the antenna to the line
> impedance, that 'common logic' is flawed.
> >
> > It certainly will be that a good common mode choke is all that is needed
> at the antenna feedpoint, and that is a 1:1 impedance transformation.
> > Its purpose is to keep common mode currents off the feedline and to keep
> the real radiation confined to the antenna.  That aspect is unchanged no
> matter whether the feedline is 50 ohms or 600 ohms.
> >
> > The feedline will act as an impedance transformer no matter what (unless
> the feedline is exactly matched to the antenna feedpoint impedance).
> > Keep in mind that open wire transmission lines are low loss (that is
> important).
> >
> > If you connect a 600 ohm open wire transmission line to a 'resonant'
> dipole having a nominal impedance between 50 and 75 ohms, that transmission
> line (even thought it has an SWR between 8 and 12) will have extremely low
> loss.  450 ohm ladder line and 300 ohm ladder line are similar, but will
> have higher loss than open wire line.
> >
> > The real problem is to match the impedance of the shack end of the
> feedline to 50 ohms.  The transmission line will act as an impedance
> transformer, and depending on the length of the feedline and the frequency,
> the shack end may be vary between a very low impedance and a very high
> impedance.
> >
> > In other words, attempting to use a 4:1 balun or a 1:1 balun (or any
> other ratio) at the antenna feedpoint may be an exercise in futility.  It
> all depends on the feedline impedance transformation at the frequency of
> interest.  And that depends on the feedline length and the frequency.
> >
> > One would use a 4:1 balun to match coax to an antenna feedpoint
> impedance of 200 to 300 ohms (folded dipole) or to a properly tuned OCF
> antenna, but for all other conditions, all bets are off unless you know the
> antenna feedpoint impedance of the antenna at all frequencies where you
> want to use it.
> >
> > A study of the ARRL Handbook or ARRL Antenna Book section on
> transmission lines should provide you with more information.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> >
> > On 9/28/2015 8:02 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
> >> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
> >>  wrote:
> >>
> >> With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
> match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

I would agree that a 1:1 balun is preferable in as much as a center fed 
dipole appears to have a balanced feed point while a coax feed line is 
unbalanced.  In addition, a common mode choke at the feed point is 
suggested.For 100 ft of RG-8x at 14 MHz the loss is ~ 1.25 dB when 
matched.  Other than using a balanced feed system, which will much more 
complex to install, RG-8x is about the best way to go.  You may also 
find that a 2nd common mode choke at the radio will also be helpful as 
well.


The Balun Designs products work very well in this regard.  For Common 
Mode Chokes, in several applications I use a product from The Wireman 
being model #8232.  This is a 3' coax jumper with beads and is good for 
160M - 10M at near legal limit power.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/28/2015 7:40 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

A 1:1 current balun could be very useful at rejecting nearby common-mode 
interference. At my house, that dropped the noise floor by about 6dB.



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Walter Underwood]

Oops, thanks for the clarification. I should have added “at the antenna”. After 
reading K9YC’s encyclopedic work (http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf 
) four times, it has seeped into the 
lower neurons.

Maybe I should read it again.

wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 6:33 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> I would agree that a 1:1 balun is preferable in as much as a center fed 
> dipole appears to have a balanced feed point while a coax feed line is 
> unbalanced.  In addition, a common mode choke at the feed point is suggested. 
>For 100 ft of RG-8x at 14 MHz the loss is ~ 1.25 dB when matched.  Other 
> than using a balanced feed system, which will much more complex to install, 
> RG-8x is about the best way to go.  You may also find that a 2nd common mode 
> choke at the radio will also be helpful as well.
> 
> The Balun Designs products work very well in this regard.  For Common Mode 
> Chokes, in several applications I use a product from The Wireman being model 
> #8232.  This is a 3' coax jumper with beads and is good for 160M - 10M at 
> near legal limit power.
> 
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> K3S s/n 10,163
> 
> On 9/28/2015 7:40 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>> A 1:1 current balun could be very useful at rejecting nearby common-mode 
>> interference. At my house, that dropped the noise floor by about 6dB.
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Byron Servies]

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
 wrote:

>
> I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 
> tuner
> will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or no 
> balun,
> at the antenna.
>

Are you feeding the antenna with coax or ladder line?

Even a low dipole will have a feed point impedance of roughly 75 ohm,
so 1:1 would be fine with coax.  You may want to consider a current
choke at the feed point, but that's up to you.

With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.

> If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight reading
> suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide 
> so
> little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could
> 240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?

Xc = 1/(2 * pi * 14 x 10^6 * 240 x 10^-12) ~~ 47.

So, the tuner thinks it is seeing roughly 50 + j47 and needs -47 of
capacitance to balance it out, right?  I'd go with the 1:1.

73, Byron N6NUL
-- 
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Douglas Hagerman]

Unfortunately, the other part of my compromised situation is the shack 
location, which is at the other end of the apartment from the balcony. So I’m 
going to need 100 feet of coax to get to the radio. (Wife does not approve of 
radios in the living room!) That’s why I want to try to get the feedpoint 
impedance as close to correct as possible.

On the other hand, I’m on the 7th floor, with a reasonably clear view of the 
Atlantic ocean looking to the south. New Bedford, Massachusetts.  :-)

Doug.




> On 28Sep, 2015, at 8:02 PM, Byron Servies  wrote:
> 
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
>  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 
>> tuner
>> will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or 
>> no balun,
>> at the antenna.
>> 
> 
> Are you feeding the antenna with coax or ladder line?
> 
> Even a low dipole will have a feed point impedance of roughly 75 ohm,
> so 1:1 would be fine with coax.  You may want to consider a current
> choke at the feed point, but that's up to you.
> 
> With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
> match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.
> 
>> If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight 
>> reading
>> suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide 
>> so
>> little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could
>> 240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?
> 
> Xc = 1/(2 * pi * 14 x 10^6 * 240 x 10^-12) ~~ 47.
> 
> So, the tuner thinks it is seeing roughly 50 + j47 and needs -47 of
> capacitance to balance it out, right?  I'd go with the 1:1.
> 
> 73, Byron N6NUL
> -- 
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Don Wilhelm]

On 9/28/2015 8:02 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
 wrote:

With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to 
match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Doug Person]

Sounds like a great use for a remote tuner. (sure wish Elecraft would 
develop one).  I have an LDG Remote Tuner for tuning a 44' doublet in 
the attic of my town home.  Works great. 40 through 10 with acceptable 
SWR.  (unfortunately for me the noise floor isn't a floor - it's a 
skyscraper).


Doug -- K0DXV

On 9/28/2015 6:24 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

Sorry, I should have said "none" instead of "1:1".  You don't appear to need it.

I also have a very compromised installation, but better now than a
dipole. And, yes, a tidy installation does us a shocking amount of
coax!

Good luck,

73, Byron N6NUL

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 5:02 PM, Byron Servies  wrote:

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
 wrote:


I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 tuner
will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or no 
balun,
at the antenna.


Are you feeding the antenna with coax or ladder line?

Even a low dipole will have a feed point impedance of roughly 75 ohm,
so 1:1 would be fine with coax.  You may want to consider a current
choke at the feed point, but that's up to you.

With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.


If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight reading
suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide so
little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could
240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?

Xc = 1/(2 * pi * 14 x 10^6 * 240 x 10^-12) ~~ 47.

So, the tuner thinks it is seeing roughly 50 + j47 and needs -47 of
capacitance to balance it out, right?  I'd go with the 1:1.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Walter Underwood]

A 1:1 current balun could be very useful at rejecting nearby common-mode 
interference. At my house, that dropped the noise floor by about 6dB.

This is a good quality balun at a fair price. It says “QRP”, but it will handle 
300W at HF, 200W above 35MHz.

http://www.balundesigns.com/qrp-model-1110-1-1-isolation-choke-balun-1-54-mhz/ 


wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Byron Servies  wrote:
> 
> Sorry, I should have said "none" instead of "1:1".  You don't appear to need 
> it.
> 
> I also have a very compromised installation, but better now than a
> dipole. And, yes, a tidy installation does us a shocking amount of
> coax!
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> 73, Byron N6NUL
> 
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 5:02 PM, Byron Servies  wrote:
>> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 
>>> tuner
>>> will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or 
>>> no balun,
>>> at the antenna.
>>> 
>> 
>> Are you feeding the antenna with coax or ladder line?
>> 
>> Even a low dipole will have a feed point impedance of roughly 75 ohm,
>> so 1:1 would be fine with coax.  You may want to consider a current
>> choke at the feed point, but that's up to you.
>> 
>> With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
>> match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.
>> 
>>> If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight 
>>> reading
>>> suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can 
>>> provide so
>>> little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could
>>> 240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?
>> 
>> Xc = 1/(2 * pi * 14 x 10^6 * 240 x 10^-12) ~~ 47.
>> 
>> So, the tuner thinks it is seeing roughly 50 + j47 and needs -47 of
>> capacitance to balance it out, right?  I'd go with the 1:1.
> 
> -- 
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

I think you are "doing it the hard way", but what you have proposed 
along with some math will result in the correct information to give you 
the impedance at the shack end of your feedline.  That is if and only if 
the KAT1 tuner has tuned to an SWR=1.


To figure the impedance at your antenna feedpoint, you will have to know 
the type of feedline as well as its length and feed that information 
into the formulas or an application such as TLW - (transmission line for 
windows).


The easier way is to beg, borrow or steal an antenna analyzer and 
measure the impedance at the shack end of the feedline.  You will still 
need to apply the feedline parameters to determine the antenna 
impedance, and the feedline will act as an impedance transformer.


BTW, 24x10 is 240pF.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2015 7:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman wrote:

Does anybody have a “worked example” of how to use the L and C values reported 
by the K1 internal antenna tuner to analyze an antenna? I feel pretty guilty 
asking this, because it’s sort of a “please help me do my homework” question. 
And I am supposed to know how to do this homework.  :-)

I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 tuner 
will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or no 
balun, at the antenna.

If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight reading 
suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide so 
little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could 
240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?

Next, I need to figure out the circuit. If the tuner reports nt 2, I think that 
means that the coil is next to the tuner’s antenna connector, and the 
capacitance is in parallel with the radio connector. I guess that is designed 
to be 50 ohms of pure resistance, so I have a nice little circuit with one of 
each part. I can figure out the various reactances, etc., and combine them, but 
am not sure I’m doing it right. That should give me the reactance at the 
tuner’s antenna connector.

Then I have about 12 feet of RG-8x coax, so I can use a Smith chart to work out 
how the reactance at the tuners’s antenna connector is transformed to the 
antenna connection, but there is always the confusion about which way to go 
around the outside of the chart. And then take into account the 4:1 balun 
that’s on there. In theory, all of this should tell me the antenna's impedance 
at the point where the balun connects, which should suggest whether it would be 
better to use a 1:1 balun instead.

Does anybody have an example of this sort of calculation? I have looked in the 
Antenna Handbook and other sources and they all dance around it; I’m looking 
for something practical and cookbook-like.

Or I could spring for a 1:1 balun and try it.  :-)

Thanks!

Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Byron Servies]

Sorry, I should have said "none" instead of "1:1".  You don't appear to need it.

I also have a very compromised installation, but better now than a
dipole. And, yes, a tidy installation does us a shocking amount of
coax!

Good luck,

73, Byron N6NUL

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 5:02 PM, Byron Servies  wrote:
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
>  wrote:
>
>>
>> I have a space-limited dipole for 20 meters with drooping ends. The KAT-1 
>> tuner
>> will tune it. What I want to know is whether to use a 4:1 or 1:1 balun, or 
>> no balun,
>> at the antenna.
>>
>
> Are you feeding the antenna with coax or ladder line?
>
> Even a low dipole will have a feed point impedance of roughly 75 ohm,
> so 1:1 would be fine with coax.  You may want to consider a current
> choke at the feed point, but that's up to you.
>
> With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to
> match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.
>
>> If the tuner reports 24 “x10” pF, is that 240 pF or 2.4 pF? A straight 
>> reading
>> suggests that it’s 2.4 pF, but I don’t see how the tuner circuit can provide 
>> so
>> little capacitance. But C4 (82 pF) plus C5 (150 pF) gives 232 pF which could
>> 240 pF if you include some parasitic capacitance, maybe?
>
> Xc = 1/(2 * pi * 14 x 10^6 * 240 x 10^-12) ~~ 47.
>
> So, the tuner thinks it is seeing roughly 50 + j47 and needs -47 of
> capacitance to balance it out, right?  I'd go with the 1:1.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Don Wilhelm]

Sorry for the blank response.  Blame it on late night 'fumble fingers'.

While 'common logic' will say to match the antenna to the line 
impedance, that 'common logic' is flawed.


It certainly will be that a good common mode choke is all that is needed 
at the antenna feedpoint, and that is a 1:1 impedance transformation.
Its purpose is to keep common mode currents off the feedline and to keep 
the real radiation confined to the antenna.  That aspect is unchanged no 
matter whether the feedline is 50 ohms or 600 ohms.


The feedline will act as an impedance transformer no matter what (unless 
the feedline is exactly matched to the antenna feedpoint impedance).
Keep in mind that open wire transmission lines are low loss (that is 
important).


If you connect a 600 ohm open wire transmission line to a 'resonant' 
dipole having a nominal impedance between 50 and 75 ohms, that 
transmission line (even thought it has an SWR between 8 and 12) will 
have extremely low loss.  450 ohm ladder line and 300 ohm ladder line 
are similar, but will have higher loss than open wire line.


The real problem is to match the impedance of the shack end of the 
feedline to 50 ohms.  The transmission line will act as an impedance 
transformer, and depending on the length of the feedline and the 
frequency, the shack end may be vary between a very low impedance and a 
very high impedance.


In other words, attempting to use a 4:1 balun or a 1:1 balun (or any 
other ratio) at the antenna feedpoint may be an exercise in futility.  
It all depends on the feedline impedance transformation at the frequency 
of interest.  And that depends on the feedline length and the frequency.


One would use a 4:1 balun to match coax to an antenna feedpoint 
impedance of 200 to 300 ohms (folded dipole) or to a properly tuned OCF 
antenna, but for all other conditions, all bets are off unless you know 
the antenna feedpoint impedance of the antenna at all frequencies where 
you want to use it.


A study of the ARRL Handbook or ARRL Antenna Book section on 
transmission lines should provide you with more information.


73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/28/2015 8:02 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
 wrote:

With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to 
match the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Brian Hunt]

Another way to approach this problem is from the other end. I've had pretty 
good success using antenna simulation software, EZNEC, to estimate the feed 
point impedance of an antenna and then use TLW to simulate the rest of the 
chain to see what's going on. The key is to do as faithful simulation of the 
antenna as you can. 

EZNEC (a limited version) is on the ARRL Antenna Book CD.  

73,
Brian, K0DTJ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Question about antenna tuners that I should not have to ask but do.

[Douglas Hagerman]

Hi Don.

Thanks for the comments!

There is a good article about all this in the June 2015 issue of QST. My 
problem is that I can’t use open line because I have to go 100 feet, threaded 
through apartment rooms, to get from the antenna to the radio. So it has to be 
coax, and as you say, the ideal situation would be to have a balanced signal at 
50 ohms at the antenna, connected to the coax, which would not be acting as a 
transformer because of the good match at the antenna end, and then feeding into 
the tuner which would say “good, it’s 50 ohms of resistive impedance at this 
end!” and not do anything.

Or I could throw a piece of wire off the balcony and hope that the pot-smoking 
hippie downstairs doesn’t freak out when he sees it.  :-)

Doug, W0UHU.




> On 28Sep, 2015, at 8:38 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Sorry for the blank response.  Blame it on late night 'fumble fingers'.
> 
> While 'common logic' will say to match the antenna to the line impedance, 
> that 'common logic' is flawed.
> 
> It certainly will be that a good common mode choke is all that is needed at 
> the antenna feedpoint, and that is a 1:1 impedance transformation.
> Its purpose is to keep common mode currents off the feedline and to keep the 
> real radiation confined to the antenna.  That aspect is unchanged no matter 
> whether the feedline is 50 ohms or 600 ohms.
> 
> The feedline will act as an impedance transformer no matter what (unless the 
> feedline is exactly matched to the antenna feedpoint impedance).
> Keep in mind that open wire transmission lines are low loss (that is 
> important).
> 
> If you connect a 600 ohm open wire transmission line to a 'resonant' dipole 
> having a nominal impedance between 50 and 75 ohms, that transmission line 
> (even thought it has an SWR between 8 and 12) will have extremely low loss.  
> 450 ohm ladder line and 300 ohm ladder line are similar, but will have higher 
> loss than open wire line.
> 
> The real problem is to match the impedance of the shack end of the feedline 
> to 50 ohms.  The transmission line will act as an impedance transformer, and 
> depending on the length of the feedline and the frequency, the shack end may 
> be vary between a very low impedance and a very high impedance.
> 
> In other words, attempting to use a 4:1 balun or a 1:1 balun (or any other 
> ratio) at the antenna feedpoint may be an exercise in futility.  It all 
> depends on the feedline impedance transformation at the frequency of 
> interest.  And that depends on the feedline length and the frequency.
> 
> One would use a 4:1 balun to match coax to an antenna feedpoint impedance of 
> 200 to 300 ohms (folded dipole) or to a properly tuned OCF antenna, but for 
> all other conditions, all bets are off unless you know the antenna feedpoint 
> impedance of the antenna at all frequencies where you want to use it.
> 
> A study of the ARRL Handbook or ARRL Antenna Book section on transmission 
> lines should provide you with more information.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> On 9/28/2015 8:02 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
>> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:37 PM, Douglas Hagerman
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> With 450 or 300 ohm ladder line, a 4:1 would be more appropriate to match 
>> the feedline to the expected impedance of the K1 input.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 question RFI?

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

I cannot understand (with the data you have provided) how the K1 could 
be causing something like that.
Can you hear it with the antenna disconnected?  If so it is a source 
outside the K1.
If it persists with no antenna, the next step is to check the power 
source - power it from a battery (an automotive battery with the vehicle 
not running is perfect if there is no alternative).  If it is still 
present with the battery, and with no antenna, you could conclude that 
it is being produced in the K1.
If it is external to the K1, there is likely not much you can do about 
it in a vacation situation.

There are noise sources that are frequency limited (just due to the 
physics of the source), and they could actually be harmonics.

Do they appear at only one frequency on the band, or are there multiples 
per band?  If only one spike per band, what are the frequencies for each 
band?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/27/2011 5:25 PM, john Wiener wrote:
 I am on vacation and using my K1.  I don't have much in the way of tools and 
 no test equipment.
 My model ( serial 02676 ) has a 4 band module.

 On 40 30 and 20M bands  I get a spike interference of about 4/sec in the 
 first 15 KHz of the bands.
 This does not occur on 15M.  It could be an RFI source but thought I'd ask.
 Odd to be on the first 15 KHz of 3 out of 4 bands

 Advice appreciated

 73

 John
 AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 question on output pwr setting

[Don Wilhelm]

  Bud,

How are you reducing the power?  With the WPM- button is my guess.
Set the menu OUT parameter to the power you want and it should stay.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2011 12:16 PM, bu...@comcast.net wrote:
 I have a K1 that I built about one year ago.
 I am very happy with it and it works FB.
 However, I have this quirky thing when trying to set the power output.
 I feel the problem is all mine ... but, I can't figure out how to correct 
 it.
 When I press the wpm + and wpm - buttons  together I can set my power out to 
 five watts output.
 No problem here.
 If I turn the K1 off and then on again, the output power is at max, 7 or 8 
 watts or so.
 Then I have to reset the power output as described above back to 5 watts.
 It's annoying and I feel the output power should stay at what I set it at 
 when the K1 is fired up after being turned off.
 Any ideas?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Mike Morrow]

I finally got a chance to search for the list posting by Eric that
stated Elecraft's warranty repair policy if IC sockets are added by
a customer.  It was posted more than seven years ago.

Below Eric's concise posting is my longer-winded comment made at that
time.

- Original Message -

From: Morrow, Michael A.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re:] K1 Front Panel missing IC Sockets ???

From Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft:

 We do not recommend adding any sockets. They introduce
 reliability issues in some cases and also can add to
 critical lead lengths in RF areas.

 Any problems caused by adding additional sockets to our
 designs also will not be covered by warranty repair.

Socketing all ICs on a PCB is pretty much an obsolete, unnecessary, and
potentially troublesome concept for production (de-bugged) PCBs like those
of the K1.

It's not unlikely that at some point one will have to replace front panel
potentiometers (I had to replace my volume control after a year of
operating), or the VFO pot, or some panel pushbuttons, or the phone jack.
Anything with moving parts.  But ICs??  Baring infant mortality or
RF/lightening damage, it's very unlikely one will *ever* need to pull and
replace any IC except those MCUs with updated firmware.  Those are all
socketed on the K1 except for the very simple KNB1 MPU, for which the need
for a firmware update will not ever be likely.

- End of message --

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Alexey Kats]

I wholeheartedly agree that I did not consider this topic from the
perspective of warranty repairs (never needed it in the past since I
do always do it myself).

But I had been in a situation in a different country where the cost of
a single IC (even though it is very cheap here in US) was close to my
TWO MONTH INCOME. And with the high chances of getting a fried chip at
the bazaar back then the trouble of installing a socket for almost
everything was definitely not sophomoric, amateurish, silly, stupid,
or unnecessary - it was a compromise to bring the cost of highly
likely repairs down (the cost of trashing entire board due to
re-soldering same IC over and over was unacceptable).

Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems
mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable
as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will
it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the
fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it
increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it?
Depends on your personal preference.

Did I miss anything?

On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 10:59 PM, Mike Morrow k...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Alexey wrote of IC socket use where Elecraft did not specify it:

 I don't think there will be any problem...

 That statement is definitely NOT correct.  IC socket use where not
 absolutely required is very bad, amateur, sophmoric engineering.

 Do so and Elecraft will not repair the problems that your improvement
 of their design causes.

 Do NOT use IC sockets where Elecraft does NOT specify IC sockets.

 Ever.

 Anywhere.

 Mike / KK5F




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Alexey,

Yes, you didn't mention the type of IC socket :-)

Turned Pin sockets aka Machined Pin sockets provide very reliable 
connections, but are more expensive than the flat contact type of socket 
supplied in many amateur kits which can cause problems.

Turned Pin sockets were used in some telephone exchange equipment before the 
advent of SMDs.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Alexey Kats wrote on Monday, August 23, 2010 at 7:10 AM:

snip

 Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems
 mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable
 as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will
 it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the
 fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it
 increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it?
 Depends on your personal preference.

 Did I miss anything?




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Don Wilhelm]

Eric,

There may be space in that particular location, but there are 
reliability problems.  Sockets provide an added chance of a poor 
connection at each IC pin.

The use of sockets in places where not specified is NOT recommended.
I repair a LOT of Elecraft gear, and the instances where an IC is 
damaged and must be replaced is very low.  Most problems stem from 
improper soldering and components that are in the wrong locations, 
diodes backwards, improperly tinned toroid leads, and improperly counted 
toroid turns.  Use care when assembling your K1, solder in the ICs 
(except for the firmware chip) and it will work just fine when you are done.

73,
Don W3FPR

Eric Champine wrote:
 Hi all.
 I am at the point on the K1's front panel where I am supposed to solder in
 the 3 8 pin IC's to the front panel.
 The main chip has a IC Socket installed. I have extra 8 pin IC sockets in my
 junk box. Is it OK to install the IC sockets or is there a problem with
 space?
 Thanks if anyone can help me.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Alexey Kats]

Agreed. I'd trust something like this:

http://ly.rsdelivers.com/product/winslow/w30514trc/14-way-turned-pin-dil-socket-03in-pitch/0813121.aspx

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 3:27 AM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
gm4...@btinternet.com wrote:
 Alexey,

 Yes, you didn't mention the type of IC socket :-)

 Turned Pin sockets aka Machined Pin sockets provide very reliable
 connections, but are more expensive than the flat contact type of socket
 supplied in many amateur kits which can cause problems.

 Turned Pin sockets were used in some telephone exchange equipment before the
 advent of SMDs.

 73,
 Geoff
 GM4ESD


 Alexey Kats wrote on Monday, August 23, 2010 at 7:10 AM:

 snip

 Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems
 mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable
 as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will
 it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the
 fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it
 increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it?
 Depends on your personal preference.

 Did I miss anything?








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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Vic K2VCO]

The job of replacing a bad soldered-in chip is easy, does not require any 
special 
equipment, and does not threaten the board it's mounted on. Even a klutz like 
me has done 
it many times successfully.

All you need is a small pair of cutters. Cut all the legs of the bad chip near 
the body 
and remove the bad chip.

Then if you feel like it you can unsolder each of the legs one at a time, clean 
the holes 
with solder wick and replace the chip. If you don't want to risk even that or 
don't have 
access to the bottom of the board, just solder the new chip to the old legs.

On 8/22/2010 11:10 PM, Alexey Kats wrote:
 I wholeheartedly agree that I did not consider this topic from the
 perspective of warranty repairs (never needed it in the past since I
 do always do it myself).

 But I had been in a situation in a different country where the cost of
 a single IC (even though it is very cheap here in US) was close to my
 TWO MONTH INCOME. And with the high chances of getting a fried chip at
 the bazaar back then the trouble of installing a socket for almost
 everything was definitely not sophomoric, amateurish, silly, stupid,
 or unnecessary - it was a compromise to bring the cost of highly
 likely repairs down (the cost of trashing entire board due to
 re-soldering same IC over and over was unacceptable).

 Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems
 mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable
 as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will
 it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the
 fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it
 increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it?
 Depends on your personal preference.

 Did I miss anything?


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?

[Alexey Kats]

Eric,

I don't think there will be any problem as long as the sockets you
have do not interfere with the components around those ICs. The only
piece which gets even close to those three ICs on the front panel
would be battery compartment, but since ICs in sockets won't be any
higher than the main controller in its socket it should not be causing
any trouble.

On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Eric Champine champ...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi all.
 I am at the point on the K1's front panel where I am supposed to solder in
 the 3 8 pin IC's to the front panel.
 The main chip has a IC Socket installed. I have extra 8 pin IC sockets in my
 junk box. Is it OK to install the IC sockets or is there a problem with
 space?
 Thanks if anyone can help me.

 73 de W2EEC

 Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 question...

[Dave KQ3T]

Hi Tom,

Both varieties will produce the DC voltages you need (as would a few 
batteries). For your purposes, the differences between the two types may 
not matter.

Linear power supplies use a conventional transformer to convert line 
voltage (117vac) to a lower voltage (typically 15-18vac), which is then 
rectified by diodes, filtered by capacitors and (usually) controlled by 
a voltage regulator to 13-14 volts DC. Unfortunately, as the current 
goes up, the size of the transformer (which usually contains an iron 
core) goes up as well; a 20 amp 12V linear power supply might weigh 15 
lbs or more.

Switching power supplies generate a high frequency AC voltage, which 
does away with the need for the heavy transformer. So switching supplies 
tend to be lighter than linear supplies for the given amount of current 
produced. The disadvantage is that the high frequency AC can, in poor 
designed/shielded supplies, generate hash that can be heard in your 
receiver.

QST has tested a number of switching power supplies recently, you might 
check to see if the supplies you're considering have been evaluated.

73,
Dave KQ3T

Thomas R. Hauff wrote:
 Hi y'all!

 I have noted that most of the posts in the elecraft reflector are about the
 K3. I hope this isn't out of line.

 I bought a K1 awhile back because it was billed as a great first-time
 builder's kit. As one of those first-time builders,  I suppose I'd agree,
 but I've run into a few rather basic questions and I'm undoubtedly driving
 Gary up the wall with them. I'm a rank beginner on all things electronic I'm
 afraid. He's set me the task of building an RF probe (which I'm getting to)
 and told me to get a signal generator as well. 

 I need to do the signal tracing the manual suggests (Appendix E, p5)  and
 wanted to build the signal generator shown in schematic on that page. I have
 the KFL1-4 board with 17, 20, 30 and 40 meters and am only hearing signals
 on the 40 meter band. I thought I'd build the signal generator with a switch
 to change between crystals. 

 I'm looking for some advice: 

  

 I have one power supply (a Samlex SEC-1235M) and I guess I'll need another
 power source for the signal generator. As I looked at the Samlex site
 (http://www.universal-radio.com/CATALOG/hamps.html), I saw both linear and
 switching power supplies. Does it matter which kind I get? Any other
 suggestions for inexpensive options? 

  

 I suppose I'll stop with one question for now.

 Thanks hams!

  

 Tom (WB7RTE)

   

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 question...

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

Yes, K1 questions are welcome here - after all, it is an Elecraft 
reflector, not a K3 reflector.  The relative newness and the 
popularity of the K3 does make the bulk of the traffic K3 related.  For 
that reason, many on the reflector want us to remember to put K1, K2, 
K3, etc. in the subject line so their email sorters can deposit the 
posts into the appropriate folder.

Switching the crystals on your signal generator is a good idea, although 
I have that generator wired up ugly style on a piece of copper clad 
board, and I used a strip of 3 'machine pin' sockets (like in a DIP 
socket) as a crystal socket, so I can plug in any variety of crystals 
for whatever band I need - easier than a dedicated switch IMHO.

There is no reason that oscillator cannot be powered from a 9 volt 
battery, or a regulated 9 to 12 volt 'wall-wart' (most are *not* 
regulated) - it takes very little current - certainly less expensive 
than a separate power supply, and more portable.  Since your current 
power supply has a 35 amp ICS, 30 amp Continuous rating, it has plenty 
of reserve current, you should be able to use that supply for the 
oscillator as well as the K1 - in fact that supply will easily run most 
100 watt class transceivers.  BTW - there is no reason the oscillator 
has to look 'pretty', it just has to work (and hold itself together 
during use).  Many QRP friends and I build things of that nature in an 
Altoids tin - it can hold both the oscillator and the battery.

Switching power supplies are lightweight, and many are excellent - but 
some do have RF emissions high enough to be bothersome in a ham station 
- check the ARRL reviews if you want data on any particular one 
(assuming they have reviewed that one).  Normally linear supplies are 
noise-free, but transformers are heavy, so a high current supply may be 
quite weighty.  I have an Astron RS-35A (rated 35 amps ICS) that powers 
everything in the hamshack and lives on the floor under the desk.  If 
you are just beginning, you may want to get a DC power distribution 
system (I like the ones with Anderson Powerpole connectors - like the 
Rigrunners) rather than an additional power supply, you will likely be 
adding additional transceivers and accessories as time goes on, and one 
power supply can possibly serve them all if you can distribute the power.

For your K1 problem - yes the strong oscillator signal will likely help 
you.  The most common problem encountered in tuning the K1 is getting 
the pre-mixer bandpass filters aligned correctly.  You must peak 30 
meters before peaking 40 meters, and similarly, peak 17 (or 15) meters 
before peaking 20 meters.  Failure to follow that sequence will cause 
all kinds of frustration.  The trimmer capacitors will normally be set 
close to the center position - if you do not find a peak near the center 
setting, there is a problem to be found (like an extra turn on the 
toroids).  When counting toroid turns, count the number of times the 
wire passes through the center - a straight wire through the center of a 
core is one turn, and a full wrap around the core is 2 turns.

73,
Don W3FPR

Thomas R. Hauff wrote:
 Hi y'all!

 I have noted that most of the posts in the elecraft reflector are about the
 K3. I hope this isn't out of line.

 I bought a K1 awhile back because it was billed as a great first-time
 builder's kit. As one of those first-time builders,  I suppose I'd agree,
 but I've run into a few rather basic questions and I'm undoubtedly driving
 Gary up the wall with them. I'm a rank beginner on all things electronic I'm
 afraid. He's set me the task of building an RF probe (which I'm getting to)
 and told me to get a signal generator as well. 

 I need to do the signal tracing the manual suggests (Appendix E, p5)  and
 wanted to build the signal generator shown in schematic on that page. I have
 the KFL1-4 board with 17, 20, 30 and 40 meters and am only hearing signals
 on the 40 meter band. I thought I'd build the signal generator with a switch
 to change between crystals. 

 I'm looking for some advice: 

  

 I have one power supply (a Samlex SEC-1235M) and I guess I'll need another
 power source for the signal generator. As I looked at the Samlex site
 (http://www.universal-radio.com/CATALOG/hamps.html), I saw both linear and
 switching power supplies. Does it matter which kind I get? Any other
 suggestions for inexpensive options? 

  

 I suppose I'll stop with one question for now.

 Thanks hams!

  

 Tom (WB7RTE)
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question

[KB3OKS - Mark]

If I recall, you have to tell the K1 which band is which in one of the menus.
I don't have the manual in front of me right now, but it does detail how to
do this ... probably during the test where power is first applied with the
filter board is installed. I had the same question when I was first setting
up mine and that was the answer to my problem.

Mark / KB3OKS


only20notes wrote:
 
 Hello All.  Simple as it may seem I have a question concerning the K1.
 When changes the two band modules out in the radio.  No matter
 what band I am on, the display always indicates 7. or 14.  even if
 I'm on 80 or 30 meters...is this a simple oversight on my part?  
 thanks  JIM   WT2W
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K1-Question-tp15873113p15880005.html
Sent from the K1 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K1 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Certainly, a zero ohm reading is an indication that pin 4 or the circuit
trace or relay K1 pins 3 or 6 are shorted to ground somewhere.  It could
also be on relay K2 depending on the state of the relays or could be caused
by a shorted crystal, or excess solder that wiched up onto the crystal lead
and shorted it to the case.

Check the soldering, especially for excess solder.  Just enough to fill the
plated thru hole is sufficient, and if there is much more than that, it can
create solder bridges and short one circuit to another.

Name and call please?

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 I have just finished building the 4 band filter board ( KFL1-4)
 for the K1. I have 3 incorrect resistance checks that I cannot
 resolve. I'll do these one at a time for clarity's sake.
   The first is P1, pin 3 to pin 4. Desired reading is greater
 than 100k. I'm getting zero. Any suggestions ?
   Al
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question

[Sandy]

My K1 was originally with the 4 band card which I configured for 40/30/20/15 
meters.
Added a 2 band card modified for 160 and 80 meters.  The KAT1 tuner works great 
at 40
meters up
but isn't useful on 160 or 80 except and extremely narrow range of impedances.
Nevertheless the SWR bridge gives useful information at the two lower bands.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Ron Polityka [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: .Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 8:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Question


| Hello,
|
|  I was wondering if anyone on the list has tried this with their K1 and the
| ATU installed.
|
| Have the 2 band board made for 80  17 meters and the 4 band board made for
| 40, 30, 20  15 meters. Then swap them out in the field.
|
| Just wondering.
|
| 72 and Thanks,
| Ron Polityka
| WB3AAL
| www.wb3aal.com
| www.n3epa.org/
|
| K1 - SN 01011
| K2 - SN 01392
|
|
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|

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question

[Mike Morrow]

Ron Polityka asked:

Have the 2 band board made for 80  17 meters and the
4 band board made for 40, 30, 20  15 meters. Then swap
them out in the field.

Hi Ron,

I have exactly the two filter board combinations that you mention.

It's no real trouble to swap out filter boards, even with the antenna tuner 
installed.  The standoffs *would be* the greatest aggravation, but you can fix 
that with a technique suggested by Tom / N0SS years ago:  Capture the two KAT1 
PCB standoffs on their screws with a bit of thin rubber band material.  Run it 
through the stand off before screwing the screw through the standoff, then trim 
off excess at each end.  It works wonderfully.  The only aggravating part 
remaining is replacing the short screw that holds down the middle section of 
the filter board.  It might be worth leaving its lock washer off to simplify 
things.

If you have the KBT1 battery installed, it can be difficult to get a firm grip 
on the filter board to be removed because the KBT1 fits against the front edge 
on the filter board.  I no longer use the KBT1.

A very leisurely pace will allow board swaps in well less than 10 minutes.

My biggest qualms abut swapping boards in the wear and tear on the connectors 
and nearby PCB traces, and protecting the un-installed filter board from damage.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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