Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[Richard Lamont]

On 27/05/17 21:37, Jim Brown wrote:

> I've been using JT modes for about six years. You should ONLY use
> WSJT-X, which is the software developed under the supervision of WSJT
> inventor (and Nobel laureate) K1JT. All other versions are derived from
> his earlier work, and most are unauthorized.  His software is the best.

I agree with all of that, except the 'unauthorized' bit. All the
derivatives are authorized by K1JT's decision to release his source code
under the GNU General Public License (GPL).

His intention in doing so was presumably to attract developers to the
project rather than facilitate a plethora of half-baked forks.

These 'me too' knock-offs contain typically 99% source code from WSJT-X.
They variously offer (1) a reduced subset of functionality, (2) 'deep
decode' at the cost of more frequent erroneous decodes, (3)
inappropriate use of VHF-only features on HF, and (4) balkanized on-air
protocols with badly-thought-out and incompatible modifications.

As Jim said, you should ONLY use WSJT-X. It is developed by a team of
very clever people.

It's also worth following wsjtgr...@yahoogroups.com - it's an excellent
forum/list with frequent posts from the lead developers.

73,
Richard G4DYA


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question

[Dave]

Don't tell the kapton that has been decoupling the 2kV on the anode in my
500W 1296MHz amplifier for 12 years this!
Dave
WW2R

Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 14:13:58 -0700
From: Matt Zilmer 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I would avoid using Kapton if you want an insulator.

73,

matt W6NIA


On 05/27/2017 10:42 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

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[Elecraft] [KX3] Legs

[Ingo Meyer, DK3RED]

Hello Elecrafters,


I have a little mechanical nuisance with the legs of my KX3.

If I carefully tighten the screws, after a while the right leg can no longer be folded out 
completely and the left leg wobbles.


Is there a solution to hold the underside of the transceiver in place AND to hold the 
legs, so i can move the legs evenly for a longer time?



73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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[Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

[G4GNX]

I'm in the process of upgrading our club's K3, new synth, DSP and a stack of 
small mods.


I've come up against an issue that's causing me some confusion. The mod for 
the KPAIO3 consist of a small electrolytic capacitor soldered to two pins on 
the KPAIO3 module. I have two versions of instructions, one dated April 13 
2016 - Revision A and the other dated August 10 2016 - Revision B. I presume 
that Rev B supersedes Rev A, so I should follow Rev B?


The images on both sheets appear to show the KPAIO3A module, but describe 
the KPAIO3 module, so I presume for the purpose of modding they're the same, 
however the Negative lead of the new capacitor is shown going to different 
points on the module, depending which instruction sheet is viewed and 
looking at the trace layout on either, this doesn't make sense. Besides 
that, the trace layout on the module that I have is different to both of the 
paper descriptions.


Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum or know if any addendum has been 
issued?


73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Legs

[Ken G Kopp]

Yes Ingo, you can use two washers on each leg's thumb-screw with the leg
sandwiched between the washers.

At least this works for me.

73

Ken - K0PP

On May 28, 2017 03:41, "Ingo Meyer, DK3RED"  wrote:

> Hello Elecrafters,
>
>
> I have a little mechanical nuisance with the legs of my KX3.
>
> If I carefully tighten the screws, after a while the right leg can no
> longer be folded out completely and the left leg wobbles.
>
> Is there a solution to hold the underside of the transceiver in place AND
> to hold the legs, so i can move the legs evenly for a longer time?
>
>
> 73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
> www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[Kevin - K4VD]

I like WSJT-X but I use JTDX as much or more. It adds some interesting
features to the decoding. WSJT-X interface is a little more polished but
JTDX isn't bad.

Read about different versions and try them out before discounting them
because someone says so.

73,
Kev K4VD



On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 3:38 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Sun,5/28/2017 12:18 AM, Richard Lamont wrote:
>
>> I agree with all of that, except the 'unauthorized' bit.
>>
>
> Joe has posted on that topic. The executive summary is that he is not
> happy with the way in which some of those other developers have failed to
> respect his license.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[Jim Brown]

On Sun,5/28/2017 12:18 AM, Richard Lamont wrote:

I agree with all of that, except the 'unauthorized' bit.


Joe has posted on that topic. The executive summary is that he is not 
happy with the way in which some of those other developers have failed 
to respect his license.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] KPA500 not working

[Gordon LaPoint]

Hi,

 My KPA500 started acting up and now does not amplify at all, and 
the input SWR seems to bounce around.  I did hear what sounded like an 
arc (fairly loud bang, though it was the KAT500, not the KPA500)   The 
KAT500 is still working normal, but the KPA500 is bad, even into a dummy 
load with the KAT500 bypassed.


Any ideas? or just get an RMA and send it in?

Thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO

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[Elecraft] [K3] RFI Problems - HELP!

[G Wood]

Hello All.

My setup is, K3 (sn:5845), computer Athlon 2.5 GHz running WinXP, and homebrew 
logging program.
Antennas, 40m e/f inv vee tuned through ATU on all bands, and 20/15m Bi-square 
coax fed into shack.
Ground is 1/4 wave radials for each band, strapped together and connected to 
ATU, K3 grnd point and computer chassis.

Recently I've been plagued with RFI? problems. I originally ran Win98se with 
very few problems. I upgraded to WinXp, so I could run SDR progs that wont run 
on 98se. This is when the problems started. I had to rehash logging prog to get 
K3 Cat working. things seemed OK. I was sending a rprt on 80m CW, when suddenly 
calculator, win media player and internet explorer started. I was running 100w, 
reducing to 60w seemed to clear the problem.

I decided to rebuild my CW/FSK/PTT interface, the old one was done for IC7000 
with audio isolating trannies etc. The new circuit uses 3 opto-couplers, built 
in a small diecast box, at the moment the input serial grnd goes to input of 
opto's and the K3 grnd goes to output of opto's, the box is connected to 
station grnd.

Question:
A) should the serial grnd go to the box.
B) should the K3 grnd go to the box.
C) or should they all be connected to the box. How does this affect the 
isolation of input/output of opto's?

Recently keying the rig from the computer, the K3 would lock up, if I keyed 
using paddle and K3 keyer no problem also discovered turning off K3 port on 
computer(no CAT to K3), no other changes, keyed OK.

The K3 serial lead used an old serial mouse lead all connections at both ends. 
I read Jim K9YC's article on RFI and followed his suggestion, made up a new 
lead using 2 twisted pairs for TxD & RxD, 1 lead from each to grnd. The first 
time I tried this running 10w the computer switched off and rebooted. With the 
K3 serial lead disconnected I could run 100w no problem.

I can run 100w on all bands, with full Cat to K3, on dummy load.

Everytime I try something new it gets worse, more questions than answers. I've 
hit a brick wall.

I know I need to gradually take things a step at a time, the question of the 
interface box is a start point.

I throw myself at the mercy of the reflector, hoping the guru's can provide an 
answer or at least point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance

Gray G3VIP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RFI Problems - HELP!

[Don Wilhelm]

Gray,

Does your term "serial grnd" mean the RS-232 Signal Ground?  If so, that 
should not be connected to the enclosure ground.


As far as the K3 grnd goes, "bond" the K3 enclosure to the outside of 
your interface box, and then on to the computer - follow the audio and 
serial lines with the bonding.


Bond the K3 also to your station ground.

You might also want to add good current mode chokes to your feedlines.
If your end-fed antenna is of the type which uses the coax shield as the 
'counterpoise', then either add a wire counterpoise that is 0.05 
wavelength long (at the lowest frequency of operation) at the junction 
of the radiator and coax and place the choke also at that junction - or 
- place the choke 0.05 wavelength from the junction.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/28/2017 11:50 AM, G Wood wrote:



I decided to rebuild my CW/FSK/PTT interface, the old one was done for IC7000 
with audio isolating trannies etc. The new circuit uses 3 opto-couplers, built 
in a small diecast box, at the moment the input serial grnd goes to input of 
opto's and the K3 grnd goes to output of opto's, the box is connected to 
station grnd.

Question:
A) should the serial grnd go to the box.
B) should the K3 grnd go to the box.
C) or should they all be connected to the box. How does this affect the 
isolation of input/output of opto's?

Recently keying the rig from the computer, the K3 would lock up, if I keyed 
using paddle and K3 keyer no problem also discovered turning off K3 port on 
computer(no CAT to K3), no other changes, keyed OK.

The K3 serial lead used an old serial mouse lead all connections at both ends. I 
read Jim K9YC's article on RFI and followed his suggestion, made up a new lead 
using 2 twisted pairs for TxD & RxD, 1 lead from each to grnd. The first time I 
tried this running 10w the computer switched off and rebooted. With the K3 serial 
lead disconnected I could run 100w no problem.

I can run 100w on all bands, with full Cat to K3, on dummy load.

Everytime I try something new it gets worse, more questions than answers. I've 
hit a brick wall.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[Kevin Stover, AC0H]

Big point.

Once he releases the source code under GPL he has no recourse. These 
developers can take his source code, do exactly what they want to it, 
and don't even have to change the name of the application.


If the program was written with GPL tools, compilers, libraries, dll's, 
etc..., as WSJT-X was, he is required to release the code.


He can charge for bis version of the program and charge for support. He 
does have control over what makes it into his version. Other than that nope.


 It's about time Elecraft released their code under GPL so 
pimple faced kids living in Mom's basement with no visible means of 
support, can write "some really cool stuff" for the Elecraft products. 





On 5/28/2017 2:38 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Sun,5/28/2017 12:18 AM, Richard Lamont wrote:

I agree with all of that, except the 'unauthorized' bit.


Joe has posted on that topic. The executive summary is that he is not 
happy with the way in which some of those other developers have failed 
to respect his license.


73, Jim K9YC

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--
R. Kevin StoverAC0H
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441
ARRL
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Re: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

[G4GNX]

Hi Ron.

Thanks for the confirmation. I figured out that Rev A was a mistake, after 
looking at the fan connector and fan supply orientation. Had Rev A been used 
it wouldn't have been a disaster, but the mod would have had no effect, as 
it connected both ends of the capacitor to the positive fan supply! Oops! I 
haven't seen any errata but it doesn't matter now.


My KPAIO3 module isn't the same layout as the ones shown, but the actual 
connections are the same to the fans.


Well, I completed all of the mods, so now to put it all back together. 

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire

Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:37 PM
To: 'G4GNX' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

Hi Alan:

Use Rev B. Rev A of the instructions had an error that was corrected by an
errata. Apparently you don't have that errata. The change was subsequently
included in the Rev B printing.

73, Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

[Fred Jensen]

To expand just a bit, when commanding a QSY from the N1MM+ entry window, 
the P3 seems to put that frequency in the center of the screen in 
fixed-tune mode placing the edges +/- 10 KHz from it. If I QSY to 
14050or 14070, which are the center of a 20 KHz boundary, the right and 
left edges of the screen remain on 20 KHz boundaries which is what I 
wanted.  I believe this is what Alan said.  You'd think I could have 
figured this out on my own. [:-)


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 5/28/2017 11:19 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Thanks Alan. I just verified that this happens only when I QSY by 
typing a frequency into the N1MM+ entry window.  Problem resolved.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 5/27/2017 8:41 PM, Alan wrote:
If N1MM changes the K3 VFO frequency, even temporarily, it could 
cause the P3 to reset its center frequency.  To prevent that, you can 
set the P3's FixMode to "Static".


Alan N1AL





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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Legs

[Nr4c]

You should tighten the screws after extending the legs. Get them tight. 

Never fold the legs without loosening the thumb screws first!  One leg will 
tighten more if don't loosen the screws first. 

This problem could have been eliminated if they had use a left hand thread on 
one of the legs. But, this would have been quite confusing go a lot of people 
especially trying to replace the screws after changing battery. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 28, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED  wrote:
> 
> Hello Elecrafters,
> 
> 
> I have a little mechanical nuisance with the legs of my KX3.
> 
> If I carefully tighten the screws, after a while the right leg can no longer 
> be folded out completely and the left leg wobbles.
> 
> Is there a solution to hold the underside of the transceiver in place AND to 
> hold the legs, so i can move the legs evenly for a longer time?
> 
> 
> 73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
> www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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[Elecraft] CP1 vs other directional coupler

[Mike Markowski]

I'd like to get a directional coupler to, among other things, monitor my 
transmit signal on a scope.


The Elecraft CP1 kit is priced well, but I'd want it in a metal box with 
panel mount connectors, SO-239 for the main RF path.  I'd also rather 
use 50 ohm terminators rather than switches, so at that point it 
probably makes sense to build my own.  Just curious what others have 
done and if there are recommendations for reasonably priced, 
commercially available directional couplers for HF at 100 W or more.


Tnx es 73,
Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Tom Francis, W1TEF]

Greetings,

I'm looking for a little practical advice about linear amplification for 
the KX2/3 (I have both).


Hardrock-50 or KXPA100.

Essentially, it would be used mobile, although taking it out the car and 
using it portable is

possible.

So any information from users of these two amps will be greatly 
appreciated.  Also, as the
Hardrock 50 is a kit, how hard is it to build for something with finger 
nephropathy?


Thanks for any info.

Very best regards,

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC




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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Phil Hystad]

I looked into that very question a few months ago (February)…

My comments:  

1.  I don’t think Hardrock-50 has an auto-tuner so in pricing comparison, 
compare with
a separate vendors auto-tuner (as good as Elecraft’s) if you are assuming 
buying the KXPA100 with
auto tuner.

2.  Hardrock-50 is half (or, less than half?) the output power of KXPA100 (of 
course, you know this).

3.  Include your own labor time in $ for building the kit?  I do this for 
everything I do to determine
if I want to do myself or pay to have it done.  For many of my projects, my 
time is a lot more valuable than
the cost of somebody else’s time.  For example, as a plumber my own labor costs 
are thousands of dollars
per hour.

Well, these are the three key items that I looked into in comparing leaving out 
the very likely quality
difference between a full soldering kit built by me versus a kit from Elecraft.

I chose the KXPA100+autotuner as a result of my evaluation.  

But, the rest of the story.

I didn’t buy the KXPA100.  My reason for 100 watts was to see about getting a 
100-watt capable
backup rig and could also be used in portable operations (with adaquate DC 
power of course).  

I made a wild decision.  Instead of getting an amp for my KX3.  I sold my KX3!  
In its place I
bought a new Icom IC-7300 and it is light-weight and could be portable (not 
mobile) as well.

But, I still loved QRP portable ops too so I bought a KX2 to replace my KX3.  I 
also sold other
equipment that was merely collecting dust to also put together the funds to buy 
the KX2 as
well as a second KAT500 to work with the IC-7300 (since the 7300s internal 
tuner is not good
enough for all of my antennas in use on all of my bands of interest).

Net cost was  minus $130.   That is, I had a net gain after buying the IC-7300, 
the KX2,
and the KAT500 by selling the KX3, and a mobile HF rig, a mobile VHF/UHF rig, 
and a R-75
receiver.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On May 28, 2017, at 10:50 AM, Tom Francis, W1TEF  wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I'm looking for a little practical advice about linear amplification for the 
> KX2/3 (I have both).
> 
> Hardrock-50 or KXPA100.
> 
> Essentially, it would be used mobile, although taking it out the car and 
> using it portable is
> possible.
> 
> So any information from users of these two amps will be greatly appreciated.  
> Also, as the
> Hardrock 50 is a kit, how hard is it to build for something with finger 
> nephropathy?
> 
> Thanks for any info.
> 
> Very best regards,
> 
> Tom, W1TEF
> Lexington, SC
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

[Fred Jensen]

Thanks Alan. I just verified that this happens only when I QSY by typing 
a frequency into the N1MM+ entry window.  Problem resolved.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 5/27/2017 8:41 PM, Alan wrote:
If N1MM changes the K3 VFO frequency, even temporarily, it could cause 
the P3 to reset its center frequency.  To prevent that, you can set 
the P3's FixMode to "Static".


Alan N1AL



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Tom Francis, W1TEF]

Phil,

The Hardrock 50 has an atu - I don't know if the toroids are pre-wound 
or not - if not, that's an

issue for me.

Actually, I'm kind of in the reverse situation - I want to keep my 
KX2/3, but get rid of my FT-450D

- which is a nice radio, but it's bigger than I can use mobile.

All suggestions are welcome and you certainly gave me something to think 
about.


Thanks.

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC

On 5/28/2017 2:04 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I looked into that very question a few months ago (February)…

My comments:

1.  I don’t think Hardrock-50 has an auto-tuner so in pricing comparison, 
compare with
a separate vendors auto-tuner (as good as Elecraft’s) if you are assuming 
buying the KXPA100 with
auto tuner.

2.  Hardrock-50 is half (or, less than half?) the output power of KXPA100 (of 
course, you know this).

3.  Include your own labor time in $ for building the kit?  I do this for 
everything I do to determine
if I want to do myself or pay to have it done.  For many of my projects, my 
time is a lot more valuable than
the cost of somebody else’s time.  For example, as a plumber my own labor costs 
are thousands of dollars
per hour.

Well, these are the three key items that I looked into in comparing leaving out 
the very likely quality
difference between a full soldering kit built by me versus a kit from Elecraft.

I chose the KXPA100+autotuner as a result of my evaluation.

But, the rest of the story.

I didn’t buy the KXPA100.  My reason for 100 watts was to see about getting a 
100-watt capable
backup rig and could also be used in portable operations (with adaquate DC 
power of course).

I made a wild decision.  Instead of getting an amp for my KX3.  I sold my KX3!  
In its place I
bought a new Icom IC-7300 and it is light-weight and could be portable (not 
mobile) as well.

But, I still loved QRP portable ops too so I bought a KX2 to replace my KX3.  I 
also sold other
equipment that was merely collecting dust to also put together the funds to buy 
the KX2 as
well as a second KAT500 to work with the IC-7300 (since the 7300s internal 
tuner is not good
enough for all of my antennas in use on all of my bands of interest).

Net cost was  minus $130.   That is, I had a net gain after buying the IC-7300, 
the KX2,
and the KAT500 by selling the KX3, and a mobile HF rig, a mobile VHF/UHF rig, 
and a R-75
receiver.

73, phil, K7PEH



On May 28, 2017, at 10:50 AM, Tom Francis, W1TEF  wrote:

Greetings,

I'm looking for a little practical advice about linear amplification for the 
KX2/3 (I have both).

Hardrock-50 or KXPA100.

Essentially, it would be used mobile, although taking it out the car and using 
it portable is
possible.

So any information from users of these two amps will be greatly appreciated.  
Also, as the
Hardrock 50 is a kit, how hard is it to build for something with finger 
nephropathy?

Thanks for any info.

Very best regards,

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC




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[Elecraft] KX3 alc/cmp and swr/rf display

[Detrick Merz]

Got two KX3 radios sitting here. Both in USB mode. On one, pressing the
keyer/mic button switches the display between swr/rf and cmp/alc. On the
other radio pressing keyer/mic it switches between showing mic gain and wpm
in vfo b, but always shows cmp/alc.

What are we missing?

73,

-detrick
KI4STU
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[Elecraft] KXPD2 Paddle

[Tom Francis, W1TEF]

Greetings,

First, before I go any further, I have nothing but the highest regard 
for Elecraft's Customer
Support and Service.  I've had several issues with my KX2 that were due 
to operator error
and Elecraft has fixed my self-induced KX2 injuries quickly and 
efficiently. Plus, I've had

a couple of other dealings with Customer Service all outstanding.

However. ;-)

I've been dealing with a KXPD2 paddle issue since I purchased my KX2 
last year. I've gone

through four of them all with the exact same problem.

To wit: After use, say half hour or so, the contact posts loosen up and 
the CW becomes
impossible.  I've tried everything I know how to do - Loc-Tite blue goo, 
used a mini-torque
wrench to set torque, pushed the envelope with tightening up the screws 
- the contact posts

loosen up.

I have a very light touch with my paddles with very close spacing as CW 
is my primary
mode of choice for 54 years.  So I don't think that its heavy tapping or 
wide spacing
that is causing the problem.  If I were to guess, I believe it is a 
dissimilar materials issue -
metal screws, plastic base, warm radio causing the plastic to expand 
JUST THAT LITTLE

BIT to loosen up the screws.

Now here's the thing - four paddles all having the same issue on the 
same radio with

the same operator seems to be indicative of a manufacturing problem.

Maybe it is peculiar to me - I'm not discounting that, but it seems 
unusual. What I'm
wondering is if anybody else who owns and uses these paddles have the 
same issue?


Thanks.

Very best regards,

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC
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Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for Elecraft's business.

[David Gow]

As a relatively new owner of an Elecraft KX3  and all related accessories
this list has been of immense help to me.  It is far more interesting and
well behaved than some other ham lists I read.  When I did sell an Elecraft
manufactured accessory it sold in one hour.at my stated fair price  and I
felt good about not selling it on a n auction site.

73,  Dave W7VM

On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 9:57 AM, Bert Craig  wrote:

> I agree 100%! It's really a form of bullying censorship. Learn how to set
> up rules in your e-mail client. Failing that, use the 'Del' key. Geez!
>
> Imagine coming across a QSO ota that we don't want to participate in.
> Rather than QSY, we ask the active participants to cease their QSO. Ick!
>
> 73 de Bert
> WA2SI
>
> Sent from my android device.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: David Gilbert 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Sun, 28 May 2017 12:48
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for
> Elecraft's business.
>
>
> note : personal reply
>
> Wow ... somebody writing an off topic post (it had nothing to do with
> Elecraft products) to complain about off topic posts.  Talk about
> dripping with irony.
>
> Besides, it is a trivial exercise to speed read through the topic
> headers and delete the messages you don't want to see.  I mean really
> trivial.  I can scan through well over 100 messages messages per day
> from various lists in about thirty seconds.  You spent enough time
> writing your post and reading the responses to it to cover about a
> month's equivalent.
>
> Your post merely sounds petulant.  Grow up.
>
>
>
> On 5/27/2017 8:23 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> > The list is pretty much turning into a captive audience for some tohawk
> their wares and for others it has become a bit of a soap boxdroning on
> about off topic subjects for far longer than they need to be.
> > It's one thing to post a short for sale and respond off list for a
> personal sale.
> > But some selling commercially are using this list as a captive audience.
> > (I tend to view them pretty much the same as I do any other spammer.)
> > What has happened with me before (and about to do the same) is I just
> unsubscribefrom the list completely and only very occasionally visit the
> Elecraft web page.
> > Sadly that inadvertently turns into me just taking my business elsewhere.
> > When I'm looking for a project or a new toy Elecraft falls into being
> > just one more face in the crowd instead of being at the top of the list.
> > So I wind up spending my money elsewhere and then when I finallydo look
> at Elecrafts page and see a new toy I don't buy it becauseI've already
> gotten a new toy from another vendor.
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Message delivered to xda...@cis-broadband.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Walter Underwood]

When I priced them, the Hardrock was just about half the cost for half the 
power. I got the KXPA100.

The KXPA100 kit is assembly, no soldering. One of the design goals was for 
installation as a remote PA for mobile use. Install the KXPA next to the 
antenna and keep the KX3 by you.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On May 28, 2017, at 11:44 AM, Tom Francis, W1TEF  wrote:
> 
> Phil,
> 
> The Hardrock 50 has an atu - I don't know if the toroids are pre-wound or not 
> - if not, that's an
> issue for me.
> 
> Actually, I'm kind of in the reverse situation - I want to keep my KX2/3, but 
> get rid of my FT-450D
> - which is a nice radio, but it's bigger than I can use mobile.
> 
> All suggestions are welcome and you certainly gave me something to think 
> about.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Tom, W1TEF
> Lexington, SC
> 
> On 5/28/2017 2:04 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
>> I looked into that very question a few months ago (February)…
>> 
>> My comments:
>> 
>> 1.  I don’t think Hardrock-50 has an auto-tuner so in pricing comparison, 
>> compare with
>> a separate vendors auto-tuner (as good as Elecraft’s) if you are assuming 
>> buying the KXPA100 with
>> auto tuner.
>> 
>> 2.  Hardrock-50 is half (or, less than half?) the output power of KXPA100 
>> (of course, you know this).
>> 
>> 3.  Include your own labor time in $ for building the kit?  I do this for 
>> everything I do to determine
>> if I want to do myself or pay to have it done.  For many of my projects, my 
>> time is a lot more valuable than
>> the cost of somebody else’s time.  For example, as a plumber my own labor 
>> costs are thousands of dollars
>> per hour.
>> 
>> Well, these are the three key items that I looked into in comparing leaving 
>> out the very likely quality
>> difference between a full soldering kit built by me versus a kit from 
>> Elecraft.
>> 
>> I chose the KXPA100+autotuner as a result of my evaluation.
>> 
>> But, the rest of the story.
>> 
>> I didn’t buy the KXPA100.  My reason for 100 watts was to see about getting 
>> a 100-watt capable
>> backup rig and could also be used in portable operations (with adaquate DC 
>> power of course).
>> 
>> I made a wild decision.  Instead of getting an amp for my KX3.  I sold my 
>> KX3!  In its place I
>> bought a new Icom IC-7300 and it is light-weight and could be portable (not 
>> mobile) as well.
>> 
>> But, I still loved QRP portable ops too so I bought a KX2 to replace my KX3. 
>>  I also sold other
>> equipment that was merely collecting dust to also put together the funds to 
>> buy the KX2 as
>> well as a second KAT500 to work with the IC-7300 (since the 7300s internal 
>> tuner is not good
>> enough for all of my antennas in use on all of my bands of interest).
>> 
>> Net cost was  minus $130.   That is, I had a net gain after buying the 
>> IC-7300, the KX2,
>> and the KAT500 by selling the KX3, and a mobile HF rig, a mobile VHF/UHF 
>> rig, and a R-75
>> receiver.
>> 
>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 28, 2017, at 10:50 AM, Tom Francis, W1TEF  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Greetings,
>>> 
>>> I'm looking for a little practical advice about linear amplification for 
>>> the KX2/3 (I have both).
>>> 
>>> Hardrock-50 or KXPA100.
>>> 
>>> Essentially, it would be used mobile, although taking it out the car and 
>>> using it portable is
>>> possible.
>>> 
>>> So any information from users of these two amps will be greatly 
>>> appreciated.  Also, as the
>>> Hardrock 50 is a kit, how hard is it to build for something with finger 
>>> nephropathy?
>>> 
>>> Thanks for any info.
>>> 
>>> Very best regards,
>>> 
>>> Tom, W1TEF
>>> Lexington, SC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to phys...@mac.com
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD2 Paddle

[K9ZTV]

Tom ...

I feel your pain but not your conclusion.  For me the post-loosening problem 
was solved with Loctite Blue.  Since that didn't work for you, Loctite Red is 
the next logical step.  If that doesn't work, JB Weld most certainly will.  
Just a drop of either adhesive coating the entire shank of the screw(s) will 
absolutely make that a permanent cure.  Carefully done, the fix is invisible.  
Why Elecraft doesn't do it as a routine step in the manufacturing process I 
don't know. 

The KXPD2 is an excellent mini-paddle once the posts are permanently anchored. 

73,

Kent  K9ZTV



> On May 28, 2017, at 1:05 PM, Tom Francis, W1TEF  wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> First, before I go any further, I have nothing but the highest regard for 
> Elecraft's Customer
> Support and Service.  I've had several issues with my KX2 that were due to 
> operator error
> and Elecraft has fixed my self-induced KX2 injuries quickly and efficiently. 
> Plus, I've had
> a couple of other dealings with Customer Service all outstanding.
> 
> However. ;-)
> 
> I've been dealing with a KXPD2 paddle issue since I purchased my KX2 last 
> year. I've gone
> through four of them all with the exact same problem.
> 
> To wit: After use, say half hour or so, the contact posts loosen up and the 
> CW becomes
> impossible.  I've tried everything I know how to do - Loc-Tite blue goo, used 
> a mini-torque
> wrench to set torque, pushed the envelope with tightening up the screws - the 
> contact posts
> loosen up.
> 
> I have a very light touch with my paddles with very close spacing as CW is my 
> primary
> mode of choice for 54 years.  So I don't think that its heavy tapping or wide 
> spacing
> that is causing the problem.  If I were to guess, I believe it is a 
> dissimilar materials issue -
> metal screws, plastic base, warm radio causing the plastic to expand JUST 
> THAT LITTLE
> BIT to loosen up the screws.
> 
> Now here's the thing - four paddles all having the same issue on the same 
> radio with
> the same operator seems to be indicative of a manufacturing problem.
> 
> Maybe it is peculiar to me - I'm not discounting that, but it seems unusual. 
> What I'm
> wondering is if anybody else who owns and uses these paddles have the same 
> issue?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Very best regards,
> 
> Tom, W1TEF
> Lexington, SC

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not working

[Nr4c]

Call Elecraft support!

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 28, 2017, at 6:42 AM, Gordon LaPoint  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> My KPA500 started acting up and now does not amplify at all, and the 
> input SWR seems to bounce around.  I did hear what sounded like an arc 
> (fairly loud bang, though it was the KAT500, not the KPA500)   The KAT500 is 
> still working normal, but the KPA500 is bad, even into a dummy load with the 
> KAT500 bypassed.
> 
> Any ideas? or just get an RMA and send it in?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gordon - N1MGO
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Alan:

Use Rev B. Rev A of the instructions had an error that was corrected by an
errata. Apparently you don't have that errata. The change was subsequently
included in the Rev B printing. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of G4GNX
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

I'm in the process of upgrading our club's K3, new synth, DSP and a stack of
small mods.

I've come up against an issue that's causing me some confusion. The mod for
the KPAIO3 consist of a small electrolytic capacitor soldered to two pins on
the KPAIO3 module. I have two versions of instructions, one dated April 13
2016 - Revision A and the other dated August 10 2016 - Revision B. I presume
that Rev B supersedes Rev A, so I should follow Rev B?

The images on both sheets appear to show the KPAIO3A module, but describe
the KPAIO3 module, so I presume for the purpose of modding they're the same,
however the Negative lead of the new capacitor is shown going to different
points on the module, depending which instruction sheet is viewed and
looking at the trace layout on either, this doesn't make sense. Besides
that, the trace layout on the module that I have is different to both of the
paper descriptions.

Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum or know if any addendum has been
issued?

73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] JT65-HF Beginner

[David Woolley]

Using a GPLed compiler and most of the GPL tools doesn't result in a 
requirement to licence under the GPL.  In particularly, gcc is often 
used to compile proprietary code.


Using GPL libraries does, except where those libraries implement 
functions that would normally be included with an operating system (e.g. 
the standard C library).


Some tools put a significant amount of template code into the output, 
but those are normally licensed under LGPL, rather than GPL.


--
David Woolley K2 06123

On 28/05/17 16:32, Kevin Stover, AC0H wrote:

If the program was written with GPL tools, compilers, libraries, dll's,
etc..., as WSJT-X was, he is required to release the code.


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Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for Elecraft's business.

[David Gilbert]

note : personal reply

Wow ... somebody writing an off topic post (it had nothing to do with 
Elecraft products) to complain about off topic posts.  Talk about 
dripping with irony.


Besides, it is a trivial exercise to speed read through the topic 
headers and delete the messages you don't want to see.  I mean really 
trivial.  I can scan through well over 100 messages messages per day 
from various lists in about thirty seconds.  You spent enough time 
writing your post and reading the responses to it to cover about a 
month's equivalent.


Your post merely sounds petulant.  Grow up.



On 5/27/2017 8:23 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

The list is pretty much turning into a captive audience for some tohawk their 
wares and for others it has become a bit of a soap boxdroning on about off 
topic subjects for far longer than they need to be.
It's one thing to post a short for sale and respond off list for a personal 
sale.
But some selling commercially are using this list as a captive audience.
(I tend to view them pretty much the same as I do any other spammer.)
What has happened with me before (and about to do the same) is I just 
unsubscribefrom the list completely and only very occasionally visit the 
Elecraft web page.
Sadly that inadvertently turns into me just taking my business elsewhere.
When I'm looking for a project or a new toy Elecraft falls into being
just one more face in the crowd instead of being at the top of the list.
So I wind up spending my money elsewhere and then when I finallydo look at 
Elecrafts page and see a new toy I don't buy it becauseI've already gotten a 
new toy from another vendor.

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Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for Elecraft's business.

[Bert Craig]

I agree 100%! It's really a form of bullying censorship. Learn how to set up 
rules in your e-mail client. Failing that, use the 'Del' key. Geez! 

Imagine coming across a QSO ota that we don't want to participate in. Rather 
than QSY, we ask the active participants to cease their QSO. Ick!

73 de Bert
WA2SI

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-
From: David Gilbert 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, 28 May 2017 12:48
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for Elecraft's 
business.


note : personal reply

Wow ... somebody writing an off topic post (it had nothing to do with 
Elecraft products) to complain about off topic posts.  Talk about 
dripping with irony.

Besides, it is a trivial exercise to speed read through the topic 
headers and delete the messages you don't want to see.  I mean really 
trivial.  I can scan through well over 100 messages messages per day 
from various lists in about thirty seconds.  You spent enough time 
writing your post and reading the responses to it to cover about a 
month's equivalent.

Your post merely sounds petulant.  Grow up.



On 5/27/2017 8:23 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> The list is pretty much turning into a captive audience for some tohawk their 
> wares and for others it has become a bit of a soap boxdroning on about off 
> topic subjects for far longer than they need to be.
> It's one thing to post a short for sale and respond off list for a personal 
> sale.
> But some selling commercially are using this list as a captive audience.
> (I tend to view them pretty much the same as I do any other spammer.)
> What has happened with me before (and about to do the same) is I just 
> unsubscribefrom the list completely and only very occasionally visit the 
> Elecraft web page.
> Sadly that inadvertently turns into me just taking my business elsewhere.
> When I'm looking for a project or a new toy Elecraft falls into being
> just one more face in the crowd instead of being at the top of the list.
> So I wind up spending my money elsewhere and then when I finallydo look at 
> Elecrafts page and see a new toy I don't buy it becauseI've already gotten a 
> new toy from another vendor.
>
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[Elecraft] List Overload

[Dauer, Edward]

--
 I believe both kinds of views are valid, this coming from a confessed but 
unabashed occasional OT-committer.  For some the reflector is a source of 
technical information and exchange about Elecraft products.  Period.  Nothing 
wrong with that.  For others – like me – it’s a conversation place for people 
with a core common interest who eventually come to know each other, some of 
whom they’ve met personally, some of whom they’ve corresponded with off-list, 
some of whom are only in the willing or unwilling audience.  I like to think of 
it as the e-mail equivalent of an OTA net among people who get together now and 
then.  If that view is also valid, which I believe it is, then there ought to 
be some license for OT conversation among friends – within reason and not too 
far from the core common ground.  In addition, if we were absolutely strict 
about the Elecraft-only technical limit, there would be no room for talk of 
antennas, baluns (or chokes as the case may be), lightning protection, 
propagation, power supplies, batteries other than those in Elecraft gear, or a 
google of other useful and instructional topics.  As a participant I try to 
keep my OT departures brief, infrequent, and close to the core, with follow-up 
off list if anyone wants to do that.  I would miss a great deal of the 
camaraderie intrinsic to amateur radio if we couldn’t occasionally draw outside 
the lines.  Something like telling off-color jokes during the monthly poker 
game.

Ted, KN1CBR

 
Message: 22
Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 09:48:39 -0700
From: David Gilbert 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for
Elecraft's business.
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed


note : personal reply

Wow ... somebody writing an off topic post (it had nothing to do with 
Elecraft products) to complain about off topic posts.  Talk about 
dripping with irony.

Besides, it is a trivial exercise to speed read through the topic 
headers and delete the messages you don't want to see.  I mean really 
trivial.  I can scan through well over 100 messages messages per day 
from various lists in about thirty seconds.  You spent enough time 
writing your post and reading the responses to it to cover about a 
month's equivalent.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Hard reset question

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Look in the manual at Reset to Factory Defaults - or EEINIT.
Caution, it will wipe out configuration data, so be sure you have a 
saved configuration file from a time all was OK so you can restore it 
after the reset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/28/2017 6:29 PM, Mike Morrell wrote:

Folks:


Can a "hard reset"  be performed on  the KX2?

I cannot seem to find that  command in the manual.

Thanks,

Mike, K8KE

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Re: [Elecraft] List Overload

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted and all,

I am in agreement with you.  There is benefit in many OT conversations, 
and thankfully Eric allows it.  We learn many things about ham radio in 
general as well as how it applies to Elecraft radios (even if it is only 
about operating/conditions at the time).  There are many OT discussions 
about things related to the hamshack in general including "I have 
RF-in-the-shack" that relate to our use of Elecraft gear.

Discussions of that nature are for the edification of all Elecraft users.

The problem is that there are many "me too" responses, or the 
conversation becomes opinionated or personal.


We can all learn a bit from those OT discussions, but be cautious not to 
overdo it else Eric will shut it down.


If the discussion turns to specifics of one or two persons, take it 
off-list.  Or if the subject is not of interest to the general ham 
community, take it off-list.


The list rules allows individuals to offer "for sale" equipment, but 
those offering commercial services are limited to once a month.  I think 
that is adequate to "get the word out" without disrupting the list.


If you have read this far, I would encourage you to add "OT" to the 
subject line if you make a post that is really off-topic - even if you 
are replying to another post.


73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/28/2017 3:36 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:


 --
  I believe both kinds of views are valid, this coming from a confessed but 
unabashed occasional OT-committer.  For some the reflector is a source of 
technical information and exchange about Elecraft products.  Period.  Nothing 
wrong with that.  For others – like me – it’s a conversation place for people 
with a core common interest who eventually come to know each other, some of 
whom they’ve met personally, some of whom they’ve corresponded with off-list, 
some of whom are only in the willing or unwilling audience.  I like to think of 
it as the e-mail equivalent of an OTA net among people who get together now and 
then.  If that view is also valid, which I believe it is, then there ought to 
be some license for OT conversation among friends – within reason and not too 
far from the core common ground.  In addition, if we were absolutely strict 
about the Elecraft-only technical limit, there would be no room for talk of 
antennas, baluns (or chokes as the case may be), lightning protection, 
propagation, power supplies, batteries other than those in Elecraft gear, or a 
google of other useful and instructional topics.  As a participant I try to 
keep my OT departures brief, infrequent, and close to the core, with follow-up 
off list if anyone wants to do that.  I would miss a great deal of the 
camaraderie intrinsic to amateur radio if we couldn’t occasionally draw outside 
the lines.  Something like telling off-color jokes during the monthly poker 
game.


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Re: [Elecraft] CP1 vs other directional coupler

[Jack Brindle]

It would be pretty easy to modify the CP-1 to use SO239 connectors and mount it 
in a box. I would do it while building the board - drill four holes in the 
corners for mounting, mount the SO-239s on the box and wire them to the board. 
But, I would also keep the BNC connectors for the test connections since Scopes 
and frequency counters usually have those for input jacks.

Interesting project. My CP-1 is built with the BNC connectors and usually have 
adapters attached for the TX IN and Out as needed. It’s a very handy board!

- Jack, W6FB


> On May 28, 2017, at 10:23 AM, Mike Markowski  wrote:
> 
> I'd like to get a directional coupler to, among other things, monitor my 
> transmit signal on a scope.
> 
> The Elecraft CP1 kit is priced well, but I'd want it in a metal box with 
> panel mount connectors, SO-239 for the main RF path.  I'd also rather use 50 
> ohm terminators rather than switches, so at that point it probably makes 
> sense to build my own.  Just curious what others have done and if there are 
> recommendations for reasonably priced, commercially available directional 
> couplers for HF at 100 W or more.
> 
> Tnx es 73,
> Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] KX2 Hard reset question

[Mike Morrell]

Folks:


Can a "hard reset"  be performed on  the KX2? 

I cannot seem to find that  command in the manual.

Thanks,

Mike, K8KE

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[pkhjr via Elecraft]

Just ran across this the other day.  Anyone know have any experience with
this amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xiegu-XPA125-QRP-ALC-Antenna-Tuner-Function-125W-HF-Ham-Radio-Power-Amplifier-US-/132206081348?hash=item1ec818b544:g:cVQAAOSw9OFZKOkD
 
73 Tex
ka5y



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Fred Jensen]

It's Chinese, YMMV. The BOGO offer seems strange for ham radio 
equipment.  Of course, you could always put two into a combiner and get 
250 W from a 10 W exciter. [:-)  It's in the US, no specslisted, 
5W-->125 W is 13.97 dB gain.  Doesn't say it runs on nominal 12VDC.  I 
have no experience and don't intend to get any -- Caveat Emptor.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 5/28/2017 4:15 PM, pkhjr via Elecraft wrote:

Just ran across this the other day.  Anyone know have any experience with
this amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xiegu-XPA125-QRP-ALC-Antenna-Tuner-Function-125W-HF-Ham-Radio-Power-Amplifier-US-/132206081348?hash=item1ec818b544:g:cVQAAOSw9OFZKOkD
  
73 Tex

ka5y



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---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

[Ron Manfredi]

The writer of the manual has a sense of humor.   You can download the 
manual, and on the last page of the "Troubleshooting" section the last 
problem listed is:  "Smoke comes from unit," and the solution, "Replace 
the smoke...only kidding, return to dealer."





On 5/28/2017 7:15 PM, pkhjr via Elecraft wrote:

Just ran across this the other day.  Anyone know have any experience with
this amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xiegu-XPA125-QRP-ALC-Antenna-Tuner-Function-125W-HF-Ham-Radio-Power-Amplifier-US-/132206081348?hash=item1ec818b544:g:cVQAAOSw9OFZKOkD
  
73 Tex

ka5y



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Re: [Elecraft] CP1 vs other directional coupler

[Mike via Elecraft]

These guys have several. Well built. Not cheap.  http://www.preciserf.com
 
Mike KD8RQE
 
 
In a message dated 5/28/2017 1:25:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mike.ab...@gmail.com writes:

I'd like  to get a directional coupler to, among other things, monitor my 
transmit  signal on a scope.

The Elecraft CP1 kit is priced well, but I'd want it  in a metal box with 
panel mount connectors, SO-239 for the main RF  path.  I'd also rather 
use 50 ohm terminators rather than switches,  so at that point it 
probably makes sense to build my own.  Just  curious what others have 
done and if there are recommendations for  reasonably priced, 
commercially available directional couplers for HF at  100 W or more.

Tnx es 73,
Mike  ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] CP1 vs other directional coupler

[Michael Walker]

Would this work?  It comes with N connectors

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Circuits-ZFDC-20-4-N-Coaxial-Directional-Coupler-1-1000MHz-/263005332237?hash=item3d3c56e30d:g:YS4AAOSwK6RZKIqL

Mike va3mw

On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 8:39 PM, Mike via Elecraft  wrote:

> These guys have several. Well built. Not cheap.  http://www.preciserf.com
>
> Mike KD8RQE
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2017 1:25:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> mike.ab...@gmail.com writes:
>
> I'd like  to get a directional coupler to, among other things, monitor my
> transmit  signal on a scope.
>
> The Elecraft CP1 kit is priced well, but I'd want it  in a metal box with
> panel mount connectors, SO-239 for the main RF  path.  I'd also rather
> use 50 ohm terminators rather than switches,  so at that point it
> probably makes sense to build my own.  Just  curious what others have
> done and if there are recommendations for  reasonably priced,
> commercially available directional couplers for HF at  100 W or more.
>
> Tnx es 73,
> Mike  ab3ap
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