Re: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna

[Edward R Cole]

Simplest first HF antenna is a half-wave dipole.

My first antenna was a 40m dipole hung from trees with lead in run in 
thru an upstairs window to my radio.


Actually this was in 1958 and I was 14 years old so had no 
money.  Back in those years there was something called twin-lead 
which was used as feedline for TV antennas and was cheap.  I made a 
folded-dipole and used another piece of twin lead as feedline which I 
soldered into a PL-259 which I connected to my three tube receiver 
(which I also built from a kit).


Yeah that was connected wrong and it had high SWR but it received 
just fine.  Later it worked well connected to my Heath DX-35 which 
could load anything.  I would not know anything about SWR for a 
couple years but had just a lot of fun with that wire antenna.  It 
was probably 15 to 25 foot off the ground and put up with something 
called "clothesline".  Back in those years people hung their clothes 
outside in the sun to dry attached to clothesline with something 
called clothes pins.


OH well, that is how I, a pretty ignorant 8th grader, started out in 
ham radio on 40m (and it would also work on 15m).  It received all 
bands pretty well.  10m AM in 1958 was something to have 
experienced.  No one will every see conditions like that sunspot 
maximum again (well for a couple hundred years, anyway).


How long is a half-wave dipole?
L = 468/F, where L is in inches and F is in MHz
40m band F=7.2 MHz, L = 65 inches

This is on page 580 in my 1972 ARRL Handbook (yes I still have it).
to see what I have today, check out my website (link below)

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 ISSUE

[Edward R Cole]

Experience!
Back in 1980 I was beginning my new career as two-way radio tech 
working in a BLM radio shop (had been mw engineer in old career in 
CA) and asked help troubleshooting from a "50's oldster".  He told me 
that most new-young techs make the mistake of looking for high-tech 
problems when most "troubles" are simple.


So check:
1.  power source; signal input/output - first  (that includes cables 
and connectors)(and test equipment-meters)

2.  Control settings (pilot error stuff)
3.  Look, Feel, Sniff (often the problem will be very evident to 
those senses)(that hot blackened thingy)

4.  Then get out the schematic and repair manual
5.  Call customer service (not always step five).

Of course if you ARE customer service then ask the "old guy" ;-)

Just yesterday two old trusted test cables went "open ckt" and a 
trusted coax went high SWR.

My spectrum analyzer that "seemed dead" had a switch in the wrong position.
If voltages seem wrong check the ground wire.
Experience!

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 ISSUE

[Edward R Cole]

And for all of us Elecraft owners - Don "is" the "old guy" with 
experience!  Lucky us - and I mean that.

Happy Holidays to all you Elecrafters and don't drink too much coolaid.

73 from the northland, Ed - KL7UW

From: Don Wilhelm 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SP3 ISSUE
Message-ID: <567c8c16.2080...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

All,

I can vouch for that as well.
==snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade to KIO3B?

[Edward R Cole]

Larry,

Considering your current configuration is working with the KIO3A, 
probably easier to stay with it.


My situation is a bit simpler as I just run digital modes with DATA-A 
and the line-in and line-out lines with my USB/RS232 conversion cable 
connecting RTS/DTR lines to the K3: "Not broken so why fix it?".


Having direct USB interface for my K3 offers little inducement to 
upgrade the KIO3.  I have two SYN boards to install which I will use 
on 630m very nicely and should possibly improve receive due to lower 
phase noise.


So like you, I will defer the upgrade...at least for now.

I am sticking with my old XP32 computer and will soon disconnect it 
from the internet, running exclusively ham applications.  My 
internet/e-mail will be transferred to a laptop which has win10.


If/when my old stuff croaks then upgrades may be in order, but my 
soundcards are not supported by win10 and most replacements do not 
check out well for my special applications (dual-pol adaptive 
reception of eme signals in diversity mode).


73, Ed - KL7UW
busy working on 2M amps

Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 13:12:17 -0500
From: Larry Libsch 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade to KIO3B?
Message-ID: <567ed881.7050...@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Don, Joe,

 Thanks for your replies. I'll stick with my USB sound cards for
now.

 K4KGG, Larry

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?

[Edward R Cole]

Wes,

So you are saying all of us with K3/10 should never run at 10w+ 
because the LPA is a terrible producer of IMD?  Does that also apply 
to the KX3 which is also a 10-12w radio (160-24m)?


I'm finding that hard to swallow considering the QRP background of 
the Elecraft owners.


I note the topic started about using a battery but you cite this is 
still true at 14v regulated supply.


Or are you saying this only about running the HPA at 10w? (which I do 
not have).  I thought the HPA switched off below a set power level 
(again, not something I need to know since I do not have a HPA).


Wayne you want to respond on this?

I'd like to think I did blow a whole lot a money on a defective 
design (I bought both the K3/10 and KX3).


Oh HNY!
73, Ed - KL7UW
considering the KXPA100 a after Christmas purchase


Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2015 09:19:41 -0700
From: "Wes (N7WS)" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powering a K3s from a battery?
Message-ID: <5684041d.5080...@triconet.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

I'm not missing a thing.

All I'm saying is that if you run the LPA at 10-12 watts, according to my
measurements*, the IMD is pretty bad.  If you have an HPA, then after it's
kicked in, (13W in my K3S) the LPA is running at greatly reduced 
power.  I don't
believe Elecraft has to change anything.  Guys with a KPA3(A) just 
need to avoid

the grey area of 10-15W.

Wes  N7WS

*Remarkably, IMD measurements I made on my K3S using modest equipment 
correlated

within 1dB or less to measurements made by Elecraft, on the same radio.

  On 12/30/2015 12:08 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> Something you're missing, Wes. The 100W amp doesn't kick in until 
you ask for

> more than about 14W. So at 11-12W, you're seeing the IMD of the QRP exciter
> stage running near it's maximum power.
>
> I'm wondering if it might be practical to modify the control 
software so that

> the 100W amp kicks in at lower power levels. Are there other consequences?
> Wayne?
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On Tue,12/29/2015 8:19 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
>> Something else to note, even at 14V, running a K3 at 11-12 watts 
is a disaster.

>



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net

[Edward R Cole]

Just a comment on 20m prop from Alaska at 1800utc on Sunday.

Haven't been checking a lot lately as net time propagation on 20m is 
not too good during the dark months.  Sunrise currently is an hour 
after the start of the net which is 9:00am local.  I only get 5.5 
hours of daylight during the bottom of winter which appears to have 
propagation "sleeping at night".  In summer we can try QRP check-in 
but not likely to make it this time of year (have K3/10 and KX3).


Not sure if I could hear net control but did check in with a relay 
(probably from John-N6JW who is one of the strongest stations on the 
net for me).  W9/W8 probably comes in later in the day.  W6/W5/W7 are 
heard more often.  East Coast is  MIA.  WWVH on 15-MHz is strong.


I am running my K3 into CCI 120w linear to Hygain Th3mk4 triband yagi 
at 50-foot.
Anyway just a general comment; no suggestions to change 
anything.  Thank's for the relay.


Still thinking about selling my CCI AN762 and my Mirage A1015G to 
upgrade to a KXPA100.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2016 08:13:35 -0800
From: John W Webster 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net
Message-ID: <18b775c5-6081-4690-952f-38e1403bc...@dslextreme.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Please join us for the weekly Elecraft SSB net, today (Sunday, 10 January 2016)
at 18:00z (UTC) on 14.303.5 Mhz in the 20m band.  Eric, WB9JNZ in IL 
will be the

net control station, with relay help from others.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
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[Elecraft] OT: FS Mirage A1015G 6m 150w linear

[Edward R Cole]

In case anyone is looking for 150w on 6m (will drive with KX3 or K3/10):

I'm selling my Mirage A1015G 6m Linear for $250 FREE shipping in the 
US.  This is the model with internal preamp.
Works fine - selling to raise funds toward KXPA-100 which will 
replace it at my station.  I also have a Harris 1kW 6m amp (converted 
from ch.2 TV) so the Mirage is no longer needed.


Both KX3 and K3/10 run 8w output on 6m so I will throw in FREE a used 
(look new) Yaesu FL-6020 10w linear (drives with 2w) which will 
enable the KX3 to run the Mirage at full output. Most will do 12w out 
or more.  They pass Rx so one coax connection used.


I have three more of the Yaesu amps which are also available for $25 
FREE shipping in US.  PayPal preferred.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: FS Mirage A1015G 6m 150w linear

[Edward R Cole]

Sold to N6LEW.  Thanks Lew.

I have ordered the KXPA-100 kit to replace it and the 120w CCI HF amp 
I built a few years ago.  It will be used with either the KX3 or 
K3/10.  "Christmas in January"!


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna

[Edward R Cole]

Fred,

Your high desert climate will probably produce less condensation than 
my sub-arctic/maritime environ.  What I do for enclosures is to not 
seal them airtight but provide good drain openings which air can 
exchange.  Of course the shelter is made to repel direct rain/snow.


I suspected that my TR relays were "freezing up" at lower temps 
making the action delayed so I used some big aluminum  Dale resistor 
strapped onto the relays to add direct heat by conduction.  I happen 
to have 28v equipment so used 28v thru the resistors to produce heat 
within their wattage rating (used 40w resistors at both relays).  Of 
course this also provided some heating of the ambient air of the 
enclosure which helped keep moisture from forming even in 90% 
humidity of the fall.  It rains 8-days with one day off from August 
to October when temps finally drop below freezing and rain becomes 
snow.  You don't have anything near that.


One thing I have noticed about drain holes in some equipment is they 
are too small to allow water to drop free due to surface tension and 
in my environ that results in the weep holes freezing tight.  I drill 
them out to 1/4 inch.  Of course if you are prone to insect/archnid 
invasion that is problematic.


PS: I lived five years in the high Mojave Desert so know all about 
"critters of the desert" (never stick your hand into a confined space 
before kicking it to see what crawls out or "rattles"!


73, Ed - KL7UW
--

3.  Reno/Sparks is a high desert [4,500'] directly adjacent to the
Carson Range and Sierra Nevada [really big mountains].  Winter temps go
down into single digits, it does snow/rain.  Should I do anything to
prevent condensation in the weatherproof box [light bulb, drain hole, ???].

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting KAT500 to base of antenna

[Edward R Cole]

At the risk of repeating myself, I do not use any mesh covering vent 
holes on enclosures that are above ground level (at least a few 
feet).  I've not had any intrusion of "critters" and we have wasp 
nests which seem to prefer underside of roof eves. I'm guessing the 
wildlife have plenty of alternative "homes" here at the edge of 
wilderness to bother with RF exposure! ;-)


I used ordinary window screen material in the bottom 4-inch diameter 
vent holes of my PS enclosure at my dish as the fans draw air into 
the box from a plenum area below and that is definitely spider and 
bug haven.  Exhaust vent is similarly screened.

http://www.kl7uw.com/DishPS_11.jpg
http://www.kl7uw.com/DishPS_09.jpg
http://www.kl7uw.com/DishPS_02.jpg
http://www.kl7uw.com/DishPS_03.jpg

In my amplifier boxes fans move air thru vents and heated air from 
high power equipment keeps condensation free in the interior if I run 
equipment often enough.  I do use stainless steel hardware which 
inhibits corrosion.


I have two Hoffman style boxes at the dish and three on the 2m-eme 
tower Hazer.  Except for the 2m-eme preamp/relay box all have 
amplifiers providing air heating.

http://www.kl7uw.com/1296PA_enclosure_1.jpg
http://www.kl7uw.com/2m-eme%20lowered.jpg

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote KAT500

[Edward R Cole]

Fred,

I have used wx-proof fittings designed for small electrical conduit 
and/or cables to bring both ext cords, heavy power cable and RG-8 
sized coax into outdoor compartments.  Found them at local building 
and electrical supply.  Typically are plastic with rubber stopper and 
compression nut for fitting/sealing.  Stopper come with a range of 
hole sizes for cable.


I use bulkhead coax adapters on a 1/4-inch aluminum plate in a large 
rectangular wall opening to the house.  I would not do that if doing 
it over and instead bring cables in thru large PVC nipples.  Do the 
lightning abatement outside the house.  If you do not change cables 
often you could seal with spray in foam insulation.


Commercial installations do a similar thing with plastic entrance 
pipes that can accommodate three hardlines.  They have a rubber 
membranes with split openings for the cable.  Usually the entrance 
has a cable box.  But that stuff is real expensive so I make my own 
for ham radio.


73, Ed

-
3.  How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box?  Should I mount
connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the
weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings.  One of the
cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply
and the fixture to light the flag at night.

As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a
fairly-expensive-KAT500.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org



73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Edward R Cole]

Very similar to the MFJ is the Arrow satellite beam: 3-elem 2m/6-elem 
70cm.  You can assemble only the 2m elements if you are noise source 
hunting.  KX3 on batteries is excellent radio to use.  Add a step 
attenuator to reduce noise level when you are getting close.

http://www.arrowantennas.com/

73, Ed - KL7UW
--
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2016 14:13:15 -0600
From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: OT Mystery QRM Help (Video)
Message-ID: <56a3dedb.3040...@blomand.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

If one is serious about finding noise, I've found this item to go a long
way in identifying down to the building or site from which it
originates.  It takes a bit of practice and time to triangulate but does
work well.  I'm sure there's other equipment and methods available as well.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-856

This is always a good item for a club to have and own for its members.

73
Bob, K4TAX



73, Ed - KL7UW
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"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] Anti Static Bench

[Edward R Cole]

In my hamshack (spare bedroom) I have my electronic workbench which 
is a 4-foot Sears workbench with tool cabinet to which I extended the 
top with a 3-foot piece of particle-board shelving held up with big 
shelf brackets to the wall.


I built my KXPA-100 kit with anti-static matt lain on the bench top, 
yesterday.  If there is suitable prop on 20m today, I will check into 
the Elecraft Net with it driven by my K3/10.  Have not, yet, 
connected the KX3 via the optional control cables.  I was surprised 
that the amp was driven fully with only 3w from the K3/10 on HF; 
takes 8w on 6m for 80w.


Also surprised with its size; very suitable partner with the KX3 (or my K3/10).

73, Ed
PS: we were shaken up early this morning by 7.1 earthquake about 80 
mi sw of us.  Mostly stuff knocked off shelves and loss of utility 
power for a few hours.  It did snap the drawer runner for one of my 
drawers in the bathroom.  There was a 6.4 earthquake 2-seconds later 
5-mi from the first so we got the combined jolts - lasted about a minute.


From: Don Wilhelm 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti Static Bench
Message-ID: <56a42211.6020...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Rich,

I agree with Alan - there is no information about the "ESD qualities" of
that top.

You may have better luck if you contact a local cabinetmaker and ask him
to build a top using laminate (like a kitchen countertop) to whatever
size you want.  Then get a proper ESD mat from a good supplier and place
it on the workbench top.  That is what I use, but I built my own (I ran
a custom woodworking shop to 10 years, so constructing such a workbench
was not a chore for me).  The ESD mat does not necessarily have to cover
the entire workbench, only the working area.

I suspect the total cost will be less than the workbench top you were
looking at.

73,
Don W3FPR



73, Ed - KL7UW
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"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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[Elecraft] : Soldering station recommendation in preparation forbuilding a K1

[Edward R Cole]

I have the genuine HAKKO FX-951 (ESD safe) solder station which is 
essential for good soldering.  It does cost double the other guys but 
the "sleep" mode is very nice as tip temp is dropped to 450F when 
solder iron is parked in its holder.  It returns to 670F (temp fully 
adjustable) a few seconds after I take the iron out of the 
holder.  This feature really extends life of the tips.  Having a 
professional station really makes my little business of building kits 
much better/easier.



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Report - 24 January 2016

[Edward R Cole]

Just a sidenote that I was amazed to the length of the net.  I 
usually wait till near end of check-ins to have less QRM when I 
try.  Almost an hour on Sunday!  I could hear Eric, WB9JNC at times 
but there was fading from the mid-West to Alaska.  N6JW relayed my 
check-in, thanks John - always strong signal during net.  CA to Tx 
seems the ideal skip zone for the Net time.  Finally getting sunrise 
by time of the net which is probably helping.


This was first time for my to use my new KXPA-100 and ran 100w thru 
Drake MN-2000 tuner to my Hygain TH3mk4 3-element yagi at 50-foot.  I 
got the amp without ATU so only took a little over an hour to 
assemble.  I was surprised to find it was set for full output with 
only 3w drive from my K3/10.  Haven't set up he KX3 with it as yet.



Earthquake News: 7.1 Richter quake hit 80mi SW of us at 1:30am AKST 
(10:30utc) and threw stuff off shelves (broke a couple items) and we 
lost power (ran emerg gen until 6am when I woke up).  Four homes 12mi 
south of us has gas breaks and burned down - one exploded.  Many 
businesses and schools have major cleanup of shelves being knocked 
down or items thrown on floor.  Strongest quake in Cook Inlet since 
the 1964 Alaska Earthquake (9.2).


The Kenai Peninsula sits on the edge of the Pacific Plate where it 
subducts the Continental Plate and we are on the famous "Ring of 
Fire" for volcanic activity with four active volcanos within 
100mi.  Having another non-winter with warm temps and almost no snow!


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
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Re: [Elecraft] Filtering RFI from LED & fluorescence Dimmer Switches

[Edward R Cole]

We have no dimmers except the on/off dimmers called wall switches. ;-)

Re: LED's.  I have three CREE LED bulbs in my ham shack std ceiling 
light fixture with no RFI.  My wife is substituting out incandescent 
and bad CFL for LED's she found at Home Depot (not CREE - I think 
they are GE).  They also directly install in std light 
fixtures.  They are cylindrical in shape.  Also are not bothering the radios.


I have a desk fluorescent and garage has 30w tubes which do not seem 
to cause RFI.  The switching PS for our new Direct-TV satellite 
receiver throws out bad RFI on 2m.  Fortunately, I am usually in 
front of the TV most of the time it is on.  I will have to try 
clamp-on ferrites at some point.


I have a friend that acquired LED's from Costco and he is plagued 
with RFI from them (no idea of brand or model).  Definitely caveat 
emptor on converting to LED lighting if you are a ham.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Kevin Stover 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Filtering RFI from LED & flouresence Dimmer
Switches
Message-ID: <56a6ca47.7060...@mediacombb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

My simple (=cheaper) solution is to get rid of the dimmers all together.
How much is a good old fashioned light switch at the big three, $1.50,
two buck if you want a matching switch plate.
When we bought our house I replaced six dimmers. Didn't hear a peep from
"she who must be obeyed".
I have about that many CFL's to swap out for LED's. The garage
fluorescents will be a different story. They get to stay as long as they
stay radio quiet.



73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Fwd: Yaesu 817ND vs Elecraft KX3 Differences for Portable Use

[Edward R Cole]

I owned a FT-817 from the first year they offered it until the KX3 
came out.  Sold the FT-817 ... nuff said!



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Re: [Elecraft] Quiet fans for K3

[Edward R Cole]

I never hear the fan on my KXPA-100 - Ha!

Of course it doesn't have one but works fine for up to 110w with my 
KX3 or K3/10.  Made several 6m-SSB contacts with 80w for the ARRL VHF 
Contest this weekend.


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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Edward R Cole]

Clay,

Perhaps.  Several years ago I decided to try to minimize network 
caused birdies by obtaining some clamp-on ferrites, but also bought 
some shielded Cat 6 cable to replace generic Cat 5e in the 
shack.  The shielded Cat 6 was very effective in minimizing many 2m 
birdies.  The clamp-on's were largely ineffective.


I did this mainly to improve 2m for eme operation.  I did not check 
HF frequencies.  Generally atmospheric noise floor is high enough to 
bury birdies; 10m and 6m seem most effected.  We bought a new Netgear 
router (replaced Linksys) and I had some thoughts to enclose it in a 
shielded enclosure with ferrites on outputs and cooling fan, but then 
my wife acquired a ipad and kindle which all run on wifi...so 
shielding would interfere.


I am considering building onto the garage a new 18x26 foot ham shack 
so that might improve isolation from the router which would be 72 
feet at the other end of the house.  I still run wired internet 
cabling to shack computers. I suspect the wifi in neighborhood is 
bigger issue as is picked up thru the eme antennas and preamps.


I am about to disconnect the XP desk top computer from internet and 
run e-mail and internet only on my laptop.  Be interesting to see if 
that impacts VHF birdies any appreciable amount (K3 and KX3 are 
connected to the XP computer).  I can eliminate the 5-port ethernet 
switch when I do that and only run a single 25-foot +cable from the 
router to laptop.  Other thing will be elimination of all wall wart 
PS in new shack (only have the one laptop PS unit).

--
My laptop just acquired a 21-inch monitor (from my wife's old XP desk 
top which is being recycled; she bought a new laptop last year with 
win7 now upgraded to win10...and the desk top was never used after 
that.  Going thru a general "spring cleaning" to reduce household 
clutter and computer got added.


So the shack now has two full-time computers with monitors which will 
be handy when monitoring prop loggers and running special ham sw, 
simultaneously.


73, Ed - KL7UW
---
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 07:43:37 -0600
From: Clay Autery 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
Linksysproduces birdies)
Message-ID: <56b4a709.5020...@montac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

If changing the cabling was the solution for your "birdies" then it
would appear the issue was not with the switch hardware, but with poorly
constructed cables.

There are a LOT of CAT-5 and CAT-5e labels on cables out there that
simply aren't.  There's a list of specs involved, fairly lengthy one,
all of which must be met to qualify a cable at a specific grade.
Most cables that fail a check because they missed something in the
termination procedure (not signal routing).

__
Clay Autery
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: ALC on digital issue

[Edward R Cole]

Hmm!  That would explain what happened in 2m digital mode eme the 
other day.  I tried changing drive level to my 8877 by raising the K3 
PWR level and the amplifier stopped outputting (anode went from 780ma 
to 80ma (quiescent load)).  Checking drive level on my bird power 
meter showed it dropped from 55w to 5w??  K3 PWR level had dropped to 
0.10mw (running transverter mode).  So I reset it to 0.39mw and 
re-keyed into transmit and I again had 55w drive and 1300w output; 
never repeated the fault.


I wondered what had caused this.  This was using the K3 and not a KX3 
but perhaps the firmware does strange things if you try readjusting 
RF PWR while in xmit mode (PTT keyed)?


If the display switches to ALC then one could be adjusting AF drive 
instead of RF power (but how? since Line-in is adjusted by the 
SPEED/MIC knob and not CMP/PWR.  (could I have grabbed the wrong knob?).


Hasn't repeated so may be just one of those "things".

73, Ed - KL7UW
sorry this is old e-mail; catching up reading the digest today.

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 09:32:00 -0700 (MST)
From: Jim Rodenkirch 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: ALC on digital issue
Message-ID: <1454689920921-7613607.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

meant to type, "...looks to me like the set power when you start
transmitting in JY9/65 and, if you touch the pwr control knob after you
start transmitting, the KX3 switches into a "display your ALC
setting.just sayin'



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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Edward R Cole]

Bob,

Could it be that fiber optics cable is the reason?  Not much RFI from 
photons.  Not everyone has access to fiber.


Recently our commercial power was knocked off by a falling tree so 
only I had power (from my Honda Gen) and I noticed that the "RF 
world" was a whole lot quieter.  One could surmise that this was due 
to no line noise, but also no neighbors had power for their wi-fi's, 
plasma TV's, grow lights, garage arc welders, etc.


This also told me my home appliances were clean!  So that limits what 
one can do short of hooking up dummy loads for antennas.  On HF you 
might try RF filters but that is not a smart thing to do in front of 
eme low noise figure preamps (i.e. filter insertion loss translates 
directly into higher NF and the sensitivity of your eme system is destroyed).


Be nice to have fiber...maybe we'll get it about the time you install 
quantum-linked internet. ;-)


73, Ed - KL7UW
---
Our system arrives with fiber underground to the box the TELCO provided
on the end of the house.
==snip
To me it is very puzzling why so many seem to have issues and a few do
not.  I could elaborate about station equipment connectivity.  It would
most likely start a controversy as to what is correct and what is
incorrect.  My point, if one is having issues, this should trigger a
thought to investigate how and what is configured with the station.  In
some cases, I'm sure certain equipment is more prone to generate
noise/birdies than others.

73
Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s pre-purchase question

[Edward R Cole]

I realize your questions were about the K3s, but have you considered 
the KX3?  Since cost is an important consideration for you (isn't for 
all of us?):


KX3-K = $949.95
MH3 = $59.95
KXFL3 = $149.95 (optional)
KXAT3 = $199.95 (optional)
total = $1009.90 ($1359.80)
to add 100w:
KXPA-100-K $749.95
total = $1759.85 ($2109.75)

vs

K3s/10-K = $2099.95
MH2= $59.95
total = $2159.90
to add 100w:
KPA3A = $599.95
total = $2759.85

difference = $1000 ($650.10)

I have best of all worlds (my opinion) with both K3/10 + KX3-2M + KXPA-100.
I have several options added but left them out of the basic comparison (above).
Since you have a mic probably delete the MH3/MH2 in the comparison.

If just starting out on HF the options are all something one can add 
to Elecraft equipment as you decide if they are needed/wanted.  But 
if you know for-sure, now, then buy them with the radio. Its your money!


If 2m-SSB?CW is not on your list better to buy a 2m-FM rig.  I cannot 
comment on the K144XV but the REFlock is probably a good choice if 
running SSB (an especially digital modes).


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] New Purchase Sanity Check

[Edward R Cole]

Don,

OK.  Makes me curious what is happening with my KX3+KXPA-100 (without KAT100).

My KXPA-100 reaches 100w with 3.9w*drive from the KX3.  If, when you 
state 10-12w, you mean output of the KXPA-100, I'm not sure I can get 
it down that low.  The KXPA-100 LED PWR meter reads 25w with only 
0.1w drive from the KX3.


I do have the KX3 ATU which is normally run when operating.  Input 
SWR looks like 1.1 into the KXPA-100 (haven't bypassed the ATU to see 
if this is normal SWR).


*Note requires 8w drive on 6m for 80w output.  Exceeding 8w will 
activate auto-attenuator in the KXPA-100.


73, Ed - KL7UW

---
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Michael Greb , elecraft

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Purchase Sanity Check
Message-ID: <56c238c3.10...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Mike,

Yes, that is the way it works - and it is automatic.

73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Edward R Cole]

Well reading Wayne's response maybe one should look elsewhere for a 
kilowatt or more HF linear.  I particular I would suggest looking at 
the LDMOS amp kits and assembled amps recently available (e.g. W6PQL)

http://www.w6pql.com/1_kw_sspa_for_1_8-54_mhz.htm

I have built some of his 2m amp and his 23cm amp kits.  Really have 
to wonder where the ham "build-it" spirit has gone?  But Jim will 
build on contract if you got the money (which apparently there are 
quite few that do).


Maybe someday I will have Jim build the amp pallets for me to 
incorporate into a full amp of my own design.  He really offers a lot 
of subassemblies which one can combine.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Edward R Cole]

Mark,

I have not built a K1 so do not know how it is designed.  If you are 
wanting to remove surface-mount components the simple method is to 
first wick excess solder away and then use two solder irons on either 
end of the device to unsolder and lift the component.


If this thru-hole construction then resistors and capacitors should 
not be too difficult to unsolder each lead at a time.  Removing 
leaded transistors can be tough.  Sometimes one has to just clip the 
leads and remove the transistor and then remove each lead remnant 
individually with a solder iron.  The transistor is usually junk if 
you do that.  A solder-sucker is handy with small leaded devices.


High power transistors with large metal "ears" can be a 
challenge.  One needs a high power solder iron with large tip.  Heat 
and remove solder with wick then use knife edge to lift a lead while 
heating with solder iron.  Once enough is lifted a flat screwdriver 
can help lift the rest.  Caution that applying heat too long can 
cause high power transistor failure.


All this is a good reason to double-check installation in the first 
place.  But have been there and done it.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Mark Petrovic 
To: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering


I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Edward R Cole]

Brendon,

Yes, though you would need to construct it.

A simple RF sense ckt would be 1pF coupling cap from the coax line 
(maybe use a coax tee and connect the RF sense box to the tee).  At 
HF the tee will not show significant impedance bump.


The cap feeds a diode like the BAS-16 followed by bypass caps to 
ground (0.01uF and 10uF ought to suffice).  This feeds thru a 1K 
resistor to control a NPN transistor that will key the amplifier to 
ground.  You might add a 1uH choke in line before the resistor if 
concerned that the RF is not completely smoothed to dc.  The circuit 
I described is used in the W6PQL 2m 80w amplifier for RF sensed PTT 
(except different values for bypassing 2m).

http://www.w6pql.com/2_meter_80w_all_mode_amplifier.htm

Another way is to buy a kit.  W6PQL sells an ALC detector board which 
passes RF thru and detects RF providing a negative voltage.  The kit 
includes 750-ohm resistor which is good for 1-2w.  Probably better to 
use a 2K resistor for 10w.  I am using this board kit with 10K 
resistor to sample 2m 80w RF for a RF output meter.

http://www.w6pql.com/Sampling_RF_Power.htm#alc

Let me also comment about using the KXPA-100 with either K3/10 or 
KX3.  I recently bought a KXPA-100 for just those two radios and its 
a perfect companion.  One plus is heat is kept out of either radio 
which reduces frequency drift when running digital modes.  Of course 
digital modes don't need 100w but you can reduce drive to 20w with 
either radio driving the KXPA-100.  I don't plan to use my K3 outside 
the shack but the KX3 may go mobile with the KXPA-100.  I 
incorporated a PTT switch in my new station control panel to select 
either K3 or KX3 PTT which is provided to several accessories 
including the KXPA-100.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Brendon Whateley 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Ron,

Would it be possible to put some sort of RF detector between the rig and
the amp to trigger the KEY line? That would seem to be a relatively simple
DIY project if need be.

- Brendon
KK6AYI



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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Edward R Cole]

Vic,

Thought a bit more after my private reply I sent you, yesterday.

Of course, I agree with you that using a simple RF sensed PTT is hard 
on amplifier and TR switch.


My reply was to a question how to build an RF sense ckt and not how 
to design one into an existing amplifier.
One usually finds these on VHF amps designed for FM.  I suppose they 
just suffer hot switching for the price they get.


In the cited W6PQL 2m amp, he actually addresses this by adding a 
bias delay ckt so the amp does not pass RF until TR relay has 
switched.  I suppose one could duplicate that, but if done on a 
KXPA-100 it would likely void any warranty.


Way better to use external PTT which is provided for the 
KXPA-100.  The K3/10 has min 8ms delayed RF upon PTT to provide 
proper sequence of operations.  I suppose the KX3 has a similar delay 
keying ckt.  How this affects QSK operation is beyond scope of the 
original question - which is all I answered.


But good that you pointed out the hazard of simply adding RF sensed PTT.

73, Ed - KL7UW

---
From: Vic Rosenthal 
To: Edward R Cole 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

I don't like circuits like this because they guarantee hot-switching 
of the amplifier. Unless you have a time-reversal device, the amp 
won't switch until RF is already flowing. Maybe it wouldn't damage 
the amplifier in this case, but it would certainly mess up the 
shaping of CW elements.


Much better to add an amp key circuit to the transceiver if it 
doesn't have one. If done correctly (like the N0SS circuit for the K2 
that was mentioned), the amp key line is activated a few ms before RF 
is produced.


Vic 4X6GP



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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Cable Interconnections

[Edward R Cole]

Jim and all:

Coax quality -- absolutely makes a difference.

I inherited some "previously driven" (aka used) coax from work 
thinking to save money -ha!  It dates from before I began working at 
my last employer as comm tech else would never have been 
purchased.  I found in preparing for installing connectors the shield 
density so poor one could not make good connections -- only useful 
buried in ground as radial.


I ran into the coax shield quality issue in a different situation but 
is the same isolation or "radiation" problem.  When I increased power 
from 600w to 1400w on 2m eme I suddenly started blowing preamps.


There were multiple "suspects":  My TR relays were not rated for 
1200w nor had the Rx port isolation needed.  I try to keep RF into 
the preamp < 0 dBm (1mw) and 1200w = +61 dBm.  My relays were only 
spec at 45-dB isolation.  Also turned out only good to 800w.  I 
replaced all after melting down three of them!!  Now using NARDA 
sem123N rated 1200w & 80 dB isolation.


But to the point the high emf of being installed at the antenna 
subjects connecting coax jumpers to high RF fields so shielding is 
critical.  I was using RG-58.  I swapped for RG-142 double-shielded 
coax.  I also fed 12v to the preamp thru shielded power wiring (RG-6 
or RG-58).  Preamps has feedthru bypass caps so that path should not 
as critical.


So changing three things means I do not know which was the "cure" but 
no longer blow up preamps.  Double-shielded coax is commonly used as 
jumpers with repeater duplexers for the same reason cited by Jim.


I wonder if better coax jumper in the shack would improve isolation 
from wifi type RFI?  Probably couldn't hurt.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 transverter using 14 MHz I.F. - upper freq limit ?

[Edward R Cole]

David,

I don't have an answer for your question though well aware that 
bandpass filter affect on use of K3 IF for transverters.


For Rx, if you have the KBPF3 installed, it will extend beyond 14.350 
but unknown if that is true for Tx.


I use 28-32 MHz as IF for my VHF/UHF transverters up thru 1296.  Many 
are probably unaware that the K3 will receive up to 32-MHz in 
transverter mode.  However RF output drops off severely above 
30-MHz.  My 50w transverter output at 146.52 (IF=30.52) is 6w due to 
low drive from the K3.  At 146.000 output is 15w.  At 145.800 
35w.  And 144.000-145.500 50w.


Use of my KX3-2M is for the full 144-148 MHz band, making it way more 
usable as a multi-mode 2m radio.


But my use of the K3+ 2m DEMI transverter is primarily for the bottom 
end 144-144.200.  I have 2m FM radios for the rest of the band (and 
the KX3-2M, of course).


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

[Edward R Cole]

Just a comment on Times Microwave LMR cables:

In outdoor application its "VERY" important to seal connectors properly.

The aluminum tape shield oxidizes in presence of moisture with 
resulting change in impedance and attenuation.  I just replaced a 
45-foot run of LMR-600 which hangs off my eme tower supported by a 
pilot cable.  Because it is run vertically water entered the upper 
connector and pooled at the bottom connector such that when I pulled 
off the N connector water poured out in a stream for a couple 
minutes.  I finally had to replace the run as SWR would rise every 
time temperature went above 32F.  After removal I cut away sections 
of the bottom end of the cable to reveal that  about 18-inches had 
badly corroded.  New LMR-600 run has my 2m SWR lower (0.14) than it 
has been for about three years (so this condition had been increasing 
over time).


I run LMR-400, LMR-400UF, LMR-240 and LMR600 outside (along with 
LDF7-50A and LDF5-50A Heliax).  Heliax appears to totally isolate 
moisture to outside the copper shielding if connectors are well 
constructed and sealed.  I use the LMR-240 for receive lines after my 
preamps to run down to ground level where I connect LMR-400 to 
continue to the "shack".


LMR works just fine if you keep moisture from entering the 
coax.  Only runs of RG-213 are to my 600m inverted-L, 80/40m 
inverted-V and to my tribander yagi.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Place to Sell Equipment?

[Edward R Cole]

I find selling on e-mail reflectors better than e-bay (I have 90* 
rating of 100%).  Elecraft allows FS posts of Elecraft equipment and 
many ham reflectors will allow occasional ham selling.  Different if 
you are a business.


I like PayPal even though it charges 3% on sales to seller.  It is 
fast and secure (meaning you risk the least in selling or buying from 
unknown people).  Alternate is using Postal Money Orders (slower as 
you wait for 1st class mail).  Or check if you know your buyer/seller 
and have trust (or endure 10-20 day wait for checks to clear).


I buy/sell for personal use and also run a "small" ham business.  I 
have been building DEMI transverter kits and recently began building 
a 80w 2m linear amp.  I was just notified that DEMI has sold off the 
VHF/UHF transverter part of their business so I am "out of business" 
building their kits.  I continue to offer 2m amps and process PayPal 
purchases of WA2ODO preamps.


I may expand by offering some small kits in the future.  Probably 
small ham accessories that are hard to find.  I can build W6PQL kits on demand.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF - What am I doing wrong

[Edward R Cole]

Wow! Great tip -- totally forgot the "tap" "2" step.

My EXREF had quit some time ago and checking 10-MHz sources all 
tested good so I figured my "beta test" unit had given it up.  Too 
busy to investigate further.


It stopped after I had a firmware glitch so now guessing that shut 
off the EXREF.


So I did the tap-2 and REF CAL showed no asterisk - uh oh.  I changed 
10-MHz source (I have a 4-way distribution amp) and still 
nothing.  So "utilizing my trouble shooting skills" I decided to 
check the coax and found the sma connector not fully tightened at the 
K3.  About 1/2 turn is all it took and REF * CAL with asterisk 
blinking and the 49.380.000 oscillator is shifting upward again 
compensating TCXO drift (mine tops out at about 49.380.072).


Its my belief the upward drift is from initial radio warm-up and once 
it reaches operating temp** is reached its fairly stable varying only 
a few Hz.  My Beta Tests indicate my EXREF holds my K3/10 within 2-Hz 
at 28-MHz (which is my IF for transverter operation). I have a mw 
frequency counter (with internal TCXO) for checking and also a 
Rubidium oscillator which I use as my Frequency standard.  Counter 
TCXO is never off 1-Hz from the Rb source.  The OCXO requires 
adjustment about 2 times per year for long-term drift.  **NOTE: I 
have a K3/10 so the 10w amp doesn't produce a lot of heat.  When I 
operate in transverter mode the K3 operates at 1mw with no extra heat 
in Tx.  If you have a K3/100 that could be different when on HF/6m.


I did find one of my four port distribution amp has no output (BNC 
appears loose so probably has broke off the wire inside).  I have a 
432 and 1296 transverter that both use a synth-PLL LO locked to 
10-MHz.  My source is a $45 e-bay Russian surplus OCXO.


My Point: Beware that sma must be properly tight to have good contact.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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[Elecraft] DEMI transverter sales

[Edward R Cole]

Sam,

OK, and thanks for the clarification.

I was notified last week that they would no longer sell me kits for 
resale as assembled units (ergo - I am out of business building DEMI 
kits).  Apparently that was a condition of the subcontract made with 
whomever is now building VHF/UHF transverters (it does not 
necessarily mean the subcontractor is making ALL DEMI transverters - 
guessing its just 50-MHz thru 432-MHz).  I discussed buying out the 
VHF/UHF DEMI transverter line from DEMI about a year ago when they 
were wanting to shed the work load to be able to focus more on the mw 
end of the business.  I decided the financial cost/risk was too high 
for me plus work load more than I wanted (one person).


Since DEMI has not made a public announcement, I was in a predicament 
what words to use (if any).  Apparently they have no problem with you 
making this public.


On my website I removed all my text pertaining to building DEMI kits 
and replaced it with a vague statement about "a change of business at 
Down East Microwave".  Your clarification answers a question that I 
had so DEMI will continue to handle all sales, just not fabrication 
of transverters (VHF/UHF).  I will suppose DEMI will continue to 
build in-house the mw line (>902 MHz).  My reply to Steve's e-mail 
has not been returned.


I have long supported and promoted DEMI products (long before I began 
selling assembled kits).  And I will maintain a link to their website 
for those that may seek me to build a kit.


Steve and Sandra were very kind to permit me to run my "little" kit 
building "business".  In fact I feel my efforts helped them maintain 
a customer base that might have gone to competition (they still sold 
the kits thru me).  I sold at the same price so I would not be 
"competing" on price...only reason I got customers was delivery 
speed.  It was fun and gave me a little pin money for ham radio.  Now 
it is over.  I have moved onto other products.


Thought this was better said direct than on the Elecraft reflector.

73, Ed - KL7UW
BTW do you know the disposition of the DEMI Flex amplifiers?  The 
catalog no longer shows them.  I had an inquiry for one from a Flex6700 owner.


Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 15:48:49 -0500
From: "Sam Carson" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Best Place to Sell Equipment?
Message-ID: <56EF4516B7F442BEA6ECC1AAD236E6D2@SamPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="Windows-1252"

I wish to correct something published under this topic.

Per the owners of DEMI (personal friends of mine): They have NOT sold 
their transverter business. They have only outsourced the assembly of 
their VHF transverters to alleviate the large backlog for assembled 
transverters. They remain fully in control of their transverter business.


73,
Sam Carson
K4SOC
K4SOC (at) ARRL (dot) net



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] Subject: Re: DEMI transverter sales

[Edward R Cole]

My apologies to the list and to DEMI.  I intended it to be a private 
reply to Kevin to explain my earlier comments about DEMI "having quit 
making transverters", which is not exactly the case as Kevin wrote.


In explanation, I take the Elecraft reflector as digest so its almost 
automatic to cut-paste my replies and click 
"Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" from my address book - apparently what I 
did with this post.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Edward R Cole]

If I might inject a suggestion/observation:

If you are looking for 0 to 100km 100% reliable propagation it is to 
be found on 600 meters!
I ran tests all summer long in 2012 on 495-KHz CW running 100w into 
an inverted-L and was copied at 30-35 dB SNR any time we tried over a 
70mi path.  That is 6 s-units over noise!  Ran weekly sked at local 
noon all summer long (when we have 19-hours daylight).


BTW my ERP < 1w due to inefficiency of the small antenna at that 
frequency (less than 1/10 wavelength vertical).  I am using a 
modified NDB 100w transmitter which drives with 0.1mw in place of the xtal LO.


But do not expect that SSB or wide-band digital modes will be 
permitted once a ham band is established at 472-479 KHz (630m 
band).  Only narrow band modes like CW will be permitted in such a 
narrow band (7-KHz wide).  1-Hz frequency accuracy/stability will 
also be required (easily done with the K3EXREF).


My antenna is a 43-foot high by 122-foot long inverted-L with HB 
loading coil at ground end.  Receiving station had KAY loop 
antennas.  My noise floor is S3 to S5 at 600m using the Invert-L.


Now the pertinence to Elecraft:  The K3s and K3 with new synth board 
can operate at these frequencies (also requires the new general 
coverage filter).  Output is 1mw but this is quite capable for 
driving amps with addition of a couple buffer stages.  In general 
100w => ERP 5w and 20w => ERP 1w with short verticals.


During the winter longer paths have worked (K6 to VK).  Summer 
conditions at temperate latitudes are subject to a lot of lightning 
noise.  Similar to 160m except more reliable for short range.


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 60m band - usual communication range
Message-ID: <56d7c766.5080...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

I use 60m occasionally and I don't think it is "reliable" 24/7.
especially for only a 100km radius.   60 tends to go long in the
evenings.  It works well as one tool in a toolbox with several tools.
But I think it shines for longer distances than 100km.   As others have
said, it's better than 80 during the daytime and better than 40 in the
evenings for short distance.  But don't be surprised if 400 miles (600
km) is the closest you can work some evenings.

I would also suggest higher power to help with poor propagation and/or
summer QRN.

Ken WA8JXM



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF question

[Edward R Cole]

The K3EXREF circuit is essentially a AFC (sort of) where a highly 
accurate 10-MHz reference is used to measure the frequency of the 
TCXO and send a frequency correction "word" to control the TCXO so 
that the error from 49.380 MHz is removed.


As I understand it this comparison is done about every 
4-seconds.  The TCXO drifts with temperature so it will definitely 
change when you first power on the K3.  This drift will slow at some 
point and hover around a offset level (mine is about 49.380.080.  The 
TCXO is actually tuned to correct from that so REF*CAL is only 
showing the amount of offset that is being corrected.  Output of the 
TCXO is not 80-Hz high.  It would be if the EXREF did not correct it.


I have the K3/10 so only have the 12w PA which does not add as much 
heat in transmit as the 100w PA.  So that lessens the amount of 
temperature drift of the TCXO.  The TCXO-3 is better than the std 
TCXO so the improvement the EXREF makes is better with it.  On 
transmit on 28-MHz using the EXREF, I see approx. +/- 2 Hz frequency 
error with the TCXO-3.  This is equivalent to 0.1 ppm.  Without the 
EXREF my error is five time larger or about +/- 14 Hz.


There is still a slight amount of frequency drift since the TCXO is 
operating normally in between the times the 10-MHz reference checks 
and corrects frequency error.  This explains why a small amount of 
drift still occurs vs what happens with a phase-locked 
oscillator.  The result is that the frequency will appear to look 
like a ramp waveform over the 4-second interval between corrections.


The reason for choosing this form of frequency control is it 
preserves the excellent low phase noise of the K3.  PLL are difficult 
to make with as low phase noise.


If any of this is incorrect, perhaps one of the Elecraft engineers 
will correct what I wrote.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference

[Edward R Cole]

If you just need a 10-MHz reference then you do not need a GPSDO.  A 
simple surplus OCXO (oven controlled xtal oscillator) off e-bay will 
suffice.  I bought a one for about $45 initially (Morion).  Since 
then I bought two sine-wave OCXO for $25.  You do need to supply very 
clean 12v dc for most of these and a stable bias 0-5v for tuning the 
OCXO to 10.000,000 MHz.


Short term stability is 5 E-12 which will do fine with the 
K3EXREF.  The TCXO is the limiting factor for frequency in the K3 so 
really no need for GPS accuracy.  If you are feeding a PLL system 
then the GPSDO will be better.


I use a LM7805 to 100K 15 turn pot to supply the tuning bias.  Adding 
a medium value electrolytic cap before the OCXO is extra insurance to 
eliminate any ac ripple or noise from modulating the OCXO.  One could 
also float charge a battery to feed the OCXO which also damps out any 
ac.  Why I mention this is I was using a 1.5A RS wall wart charger 
initially until I was told I had 120-Hz spurs on my signal.  There 
was about 0.3vac ripple from the so-called 12v wall wart.


I could have built or bought a clean low power 12v PS but I just 
hooked the OCXO to my 50A Astron PS.  No spurs, now.


To set up the OCXO use a good frequency counter or net the oscillator 
to WWV 10-MHz (if you can hear it).  I have a Rubidium source that I 
use as my standard and measure with a microwave frequency 
counter.  But that is not needed for basic use on HF/6m with the 
K3EXREF.  Note that OCXO will drift off frequency about 1-Hz in six 
months so regular checking a couple times per year is needed.  GPSDO 
does not need this.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2016 12:37:04 -0500
From: "Gary Smith" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference
Message-ID: <56e05f40.12472.7b2f...@gary.ka1j.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

I ordered the K3EXREF and thought it was the oscillator itself which
would provide the external signal source to the K3s. I thought this
was all I was going to need but I see now that is not the case.
Looking on the Elecraft order page, they don't sell a reference
source.

What external 10-MHz reference signal source might I find get that is
not terribly expensive that will do the proper job and allow me to
get this working?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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[Elecraft] Subject: Re: K3EXREF question

[Edward R Cole]

Lyle,

Thanks.  I learned something.

That does make sense as the synth are under MCU control so that would 
be the easy way to compensate TCXO drift.  REF CAL display then 
merely displays the TCXO frequency as measured against the external 
10-MHz reference.  Actual frequency is compensated by the synth.


One can measure the TEST mode output directly into a frequency 
counter (BUT DO NOT transmit full power).  I can measure the K3 10w 
signal by using a 2m rubber ducky connected to my counter and held 
next to the K3 chassis.  Running higher power is even easier to 
monitor on a counter.  Transmit in CW mode.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2016 05:23:46 -0700
From: Lyle Johnson 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF question
Message-ID: <56dec452.70...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Almost.

The TCXO has no control input and is not tuned; it is only measured.

The measurement information is passed to the radio's MCU which then uses
the data to determine the correct value to command the synthesizer(s),
drive the REF CAL display, and so forth.

73,

Lyle KK7P



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[Edward R Cole]

Joe and all interested in the EXREF:

OK ... but most will not measure the 49.380 TCXO 
directly*.*though REF CAL displays this.


What I think most want to know is how accurate their operating 
frequency will be.  I performed rigorous measurements as beta tester 
of the EXREF (unfortunately my website was hacked a couple years ago 
and I did not recover the beta-testing data page).


First one needs to realize that the TCXO establishes the basic 
stability, so choosing the TCXO-3 over the TCXO-1 will provide better 
stability and accuracy (these are two different things).  I bought 
the TCXO-3 with my initial K3/10 purchase so the rest of what I say 
is with the better TCXO-3 installed (if frequency is important then 
that is first thing I recommend updating).


Mostly, I use 28-MHz as a testing frequency since it is my VHF 
transverter IF.  On 28-MHz with only the TCXO-3, I see 14-Hz 
inaccuracy.  This 14/2800 = 0.5 ppm (I think this is better than 
Elecraft specs the TCXO-3).  Adding the EXREF I see 2-Hz which is 
"about" 0.1ppm.  Measurements on 50-MHz are proportional.  I see 3-4 
Hz accuracy using the EXREF.


So going lower to 10-MHz I measure 1-Hz or less inaccuracy.  Due to 
the slow drift of the TCXO's, stability is same as accuracy (or maybe 
better).  So all ham bands lower than 10-MHz show less than 1-Hz 
(basically I measure zero error).


Read below for optional background in my measurements---
I am measuring with a high-end mw counter able to count up to 26-GHz 
and has an internal TCXO reference or can take an external 10-MHz 
reference.  I also have a LPRO Rubidium source which is rated +/- 5 
E-11 stability.  I find measurements using either the counter 
internal TCXO or the Rb source are identical when measuring under 
50-MHz signals (speaks well for that TCXO).  I have to wait at least 
30-minutes for complete warm-up stabilizing of the Rb source so 
usually for normal frequency checks I just run the counter with internal TCXO.


MY station 10-MHz standard is a Russian surplus MV62 Morion OCXO spec 
+/-5 E-12 (note it is more stable than my Rb).  But the OCXO must be 
calibrated as it is voltage tuned.  I use the counter/Rb for 
that.  Long-term (measured in months) stability of my OCXO is only 
+/-5 E-5 so I figure that I have to check the OCXO against the Rb 
about twice/year (never been more than 1-Hz off in 3-years running).


The counter can only count to 1-Hz so measuring less than a Hz is not 
possible.  There are sw to make such but I have not gone there (yet).


I build transverters up to 10-GHz which use PLL LO's which actually 
lock to the 10-MHz reference.  I have noted that I can adjust my OCXO 
when measuring 10,224.000,000 MHz to bring it closer to 10-MHz 
because any sub-Hz error is multiplied in the mw LO multiplier 
chain.  Something I cannot do if directly measuring the 10-MHz 
reference.  Of course this is "nit picking" for setting the OCXO for 
use on HF/6m with the K3EXREF.


One caveat in using a Rubidium full time as reference.  They have a 
finite life-span and more expensive (and probably harder to find once 
one fails).  So I only run my Rb for high accuracy checks and "lock" 
for daily use to my $45 or $25 OCXO.  My OCXO runs 24/7 from a 17AH 
battery which is float-charged from a good 12v PS.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2016 13:25:54 -0500
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO
Message-ID: <56e30db2.6080...@subich.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed


 > While locked to the external source, the K3?s reference
 > oscillator frequency is maintained within 2 Hz.

The K3's reference oscillator is 49.380 MHz (+/-) not 10 MHz.

The K3EXTREF uses the external 10 MHz signal to gate a counter
which counts the reference.  That count is then used to adjust
the reference frequency.  Maintaining the 49.380 MHz reference
+/- 2Hz is on the order
of 0.04 ppm.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[Edward R Cole]

Olli,

Referring to page 8 in the K3 Owner's Manual (may be a different page 
for the K3s):


"Frequency Stability  +/- 5 ppm for the TCXO standard; +/- 1ppm for 
the optional TCXO."

TCXO-1 and TCXO-3 respectively mentioned above.

ppm means one part per million (1Hz per million Hz which is 1Hz per MHz).
So frequency drift is proportional to the operating frequency.

1ppm at 10-MHz is 10-Hz;1ppm at 28-MHz is 28-Hz
TCXO-1 provides 5ppm (+/- 50 Hz at 10-MHz and +/- 140 Hz at 28-MHz)
TCXO-3 provides 1ppm (+/- 10 Hz at 10-MHz and +/- 28 Hz at 28-MHz)

the basic frequency stability is determined by which TCXO is 
installed in your K3.


EXREF "essentially" checks frequency drift of whichever TCXO you have 
installed at a fixed time interval of about 4-seconds.  It uses a 
high stability 10-MHz external signal to compare with the 49.380-MHz 
TCXO and corrects the drift that occurs over the 4-second interval.


My measurements of the TCXO-3 show about half the published spec of 
1ppm (14 Hz at 28-MHz) and the EXREF limits the drift of the TCXO-3 
to about 2 Hz.  If I had the TCXO-1 installed, I would expect five 
times as much drift.


So which TCXO you install directly impacts frequency stability.  The 
EXREF reduces that by about an order of five.  The EXREF is not the 
source of stable LO but merely improves what you have 
installed.  Does that clear it up?


73, Ed - KL7UW

The question to ask is what amount of frequency stability and 
accuracy is important for your type of operations.


Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 08:17:32 +0100
From: Oliver Dr?se 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO
Message-ID: <56e3c28c.90...@necg.de>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Why would I need the TCXO-3 instead of the TCXO-1 when using the K3EXREF
if the accuracy and stability is provided by the EXREF? Am I overlooking
something here?

Tnx & 73, Olli - DH8BQA

Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de



73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[Edward R Cole]

Guys<

TCXO's use temperature compensating components to try to keep 
frequency stable.  They work fairly well if you are at lower 
frequencies or not multiplying an LO 18 times.  Better is the OCXO 
(which uses a heater inside an insulated "oven" to better keep 
temperature effects isolated).


The EXREF utilizes the better stability of 10-MHz sources to correct 
the drift of the TCXO.  I does that at a fixed interval in between 
which both TCXO-1 and TCXO-3 will drift.  Per Elecraft's 
specifications on page 8 the TCXO-3 is 5 times more stable than the 
TCXO-1.  I have no idea over what time interval the specs are cited, 
but most assuredly its more than 4 seconds.


I cannot compare the TXCO-1 as I only have the TCXO-3.  Both were 
provided long before the EXREF was designed.
I just made a measurement of my K3/10 running 12w for about half a 
minute 28.200.000 displayed at 28.200.001 at the start.  My REF CAL = 
49.380.089 before making the 28-MHz test.  After several minute long 
tests the frequency has not budged off 28.200.001.  REF CAL now is 
49.380.095 so the TCXO-3 has moved +6-Hz over about half an hour.  I 
have been running all afternoon so the K3 was at stable working temp 
before I made a measurement.


Unless you are into frequency measuring or run weak signal modes 
where hearing a signal is quite difficult, being "on frequency" is 
very handy.  If running CW you probably have bandwidth cranked down 
to 100-Hz.  Digital weak-signal modes tolerate even less error.  On 
2m-eme using JT65, drifting more than +/- 20 Hz will result in the 
digital signal failing to decode.


Adding the EXREF improves your K3 by five times so perhaps the TCXO-1 
is satisfactory for your operating modes.
My measurements were really accuracy tests and not stability 
tests.  I did do a 30-minute test at 2m JT65 over a 30-minute period 
where I would transmit one minuted continuous and then receive one 
minute.  MY K3+2m transverter only drifted upward 7-Hz.  It was off 
frequency by 6-Hz at cold start.  K3EXREF with TCXO-3 was used.  The 
transverter uses a heated 116-MHz overtone xtal oscillator inside an 
insulated can.


Does any of this help?
Think I beat this to death - OK?

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com/K3EXREF.htm

Message: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2016 09:08:10 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Oliver Dr?se , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO
Message-ID: <56e5663a.5080...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

I think everyone is ignoring something here.  What causes the frequency
drift in the first place?
It is temperature changes - the designation TCXO signifies Temperature
Compensated Xtal Oscillator.  It is already compensated for temperature.
If the temperature of the TCXO stays the same, the frequency should be
stable.

There will be some frequency change during warmup after power on, and
there will be some frequency change during transmit because the
temperature inside the box will increase, and will cool during periods
of receive.
The difference between the TCXO-1 and the TCXO-3 is one of how much.
The TCXO-3 drift will be smaller than the TCXO-1 over the same
temperature change.

The drift over the 4 or 5 second correction from the external reference
will result in a small correction with either TCXO, but it will be
smaller with the TCXO-3.
Additionally, the frequency drift will be quite small even without the
external reference unless there is a rapid and drastic change in
temperature at the case of the TCXO.  These discussions should include
the temperature change during the measurement periods. to complete the
picture.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/13/2016 5:27 AM, Oliver Dr?se wrote:
> Thanks Ed.
>
> I don't have a problem understanding how the TCXO's work. Maybe I was
> not clear enough. ;-) Taking your example from below, having only the
> TCXO-1 it is surely *not* drifting 140 Hz at 28 MHz within the 4 or 5
> seconds of the EXREF update cycle (same as the TCXO-3 will not drift
> by 28 Hz in that time), otherwise the K3 would be a *very* crappy
> radio. ;-) Think you are missing the time domain here. ;-)
>
> So my question still stands: What's the real value of the TCXO-3 over
> the TCXO-1 when using the K3EXREF?



73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[Edward R Cole]

Eric,

Thanks for the correction/update.  That fits my measurements, 
exactly.  I recall about the time the EXREF came out the better spec 
was given on the TCXO03-1.  Regarding the use of wrong part 
terminology (TCXO-3) its just sloppy memory of the exact product 
number.  I think most knew what is being described.  Interesting that 
the TCXO03-1 is ten times better stability over the TCXO.


The EXREF reduces 0.5ppm to 0.1ppm on my K3, which is what was cited, 
I believe.


73, Ed - KL7UW

At 08:37 AM 3/14/2016, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Hi Ed,

Minor note on our TCXO part numbers:

The tighter temp stability TCXO (0.5 ppm typical) is actually 
Elecraft part number "TCXO3-1". This is the p/n that shows on the 
K3S order page and in the K3S kit manual as an upgrade.


The standard TCXO (5 ppm) supplied with the K3S and K3 has the part 
number "E660033".


Regards,

Eric
elecraft.com

On 3/13/2016 6:14 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Guys<

TCXO's use temperature compensating components to try to keep 
frequency stable.  They work fairly well if you are at lower 
frequencies or not multiplying an LO 18 times.  Better is the OCXO 
(which uses a heater inside an insulated "oven" to better keep 
temperature effects isolated).


The EXREF utilizes the better stability of 10-MHz sources to 
correct the drift of the TCXO.  I does that at a fixed interval in 
between which both TCXO-1 and TCXO-3 will drift.  Per Elecraft's 
specifications on page 8 the TCXO-3 is 5 times more stable than the 
TCXO-1.  I have no idea over what time interval the specs are 
cited, but most assuredly its more than 4 seconds.




73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] OT: Encounters of the Moose kind

[Edward R Cole]

"Time out" for interesting event that happened a few minutes, 
ago.  My wife commented that something "HIT" my tower, as she heard a 
"bang" and noted the guy line that secures to post on the front side 
of the house was moving very "agitated".


So in my slippers I went out on the back deck for a quick 
look.  Tower and antennas all looked fine.  Walked to the end of the 
house where the tower is mounted and secured with wall bracket at ten 
feet.  All fine --- oh there is a guy line draped down where it 
should not.  Further inspection showed the guy to the back side of 
the house had broken.  I walked to the guy post and found that the 
turnbuckle end that secured the guy wire had bent full open and tip 
broken off.  Guy post laid over almost horizontal in direction right 
angle to normal guy force.


We didn't see it but only thing big enough to exert enough force to 
break the turnbuckle would probably be a Moose.  The end hook was 
totally straightened out so the guy loop just slipped off.  Hook on 
other end of turnbuckle looks fine; 3/16 inch galv guy wire survived.


We have been experiencing daily winds above 20mph so that might have 
fatigued the end-bolt hook.  Last two days totally calm, 
though???  --- Then "BANG!"


OK, back to Elecraft "stuff" ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio board for K3 upgrade?

[Edward R Cole]

My two cents:

Never cared much for audio quality of the internal K3 speaker.  I use 
a very old 8-inch round National Radio speaker (probably 4-ohm as was 
most of the 1950 era stuff).


But when I need to dig out a signal from the noise I use my trusty 
SONY MDR-V600 headset (definitely used for CW).


I'm looking forward to when I next purchase hearing aids and will get 
blue-tooth capability to directly listen to the radio without use of 
speaker/headset...probably a couple years away on that.


My KX3 uses West Mountain Radio COMspkr's

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio board for K3 upgrade?

[Edward R Cole]

two more cents - are we rich, yet?

Couple more comments on K3 audio quality and etc.

The MOT metal mobile speakers were designed for FM mobile and did 
sound good.  I don't have any so have not tried marrying one to a 
K3.  SSB sounds different than FM, especially full quieted FM. 
Installed a lot of Micors, Mitrek, Syntors, etc.


I did note the difference in sound when I went from the old FT-847 to 
the K3.  Did take a little time to adjust to "its" sound.
I have made a couple adjustments in the AGC attack with subtle 
changes in the sound.  But boy did it hear better on HF!


The full spectrum response of the SONY MDR-V600 stereo headset is nicest.

I often run bw down to as low as 2.1 KHz on SSB  (2.8-KHz filter) and 
that reduces white noise level.  SNR is directly proportional to 
bw.  So that improves the SNR.  Of course in a crowded band it also 
reduces QRM.  HF QRM is not so bad here as it must be in civilized 
areas.  Year's ago I ran off the grid on batteries and had S0 noise 
floor on 75m phone using a TS-180S and dipole.  I could really hear 
the weak one's.  Now its more likely S5 noise floor (different radio 
- different s-meter - on the grid!).


Not sure upgrading my K3 audio board would make enough difference for 
me.  Any guess on cost and difficulty of installation?  I have yet to 
install my new synth boards - too busy building 2m amplifiers.  It 
will be interesting to see what difference that will make.


I think audio quality is too personal to provide universal 
solution.  In the old day's choosing a stereo or speakers, I would go 
to an up-scale shop in Hollywood or Beverly Hills to chose the 
equipment as they had lavish sound rooms - then head back to West LA 
discount stores to buy one.  I found JBL were the best to my ears.




73, Ed - KL7UW, AL7EB (1982), KN8MWA (1958)
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Re: [Elecraft] Strong recommendation: MFJ 18xx-series single-band whips for KX3, etc.

[Edward R Cole]

Since folks are talking adding a top hat or base loading coil, why 
not just extend the length of the vertical to a full 1/4 
wavelength?  1/4WL = 248/50.1 MHz = 4.95 feet (59, 3/8-inch).


Connect a small alligator clip to a 11-inch piece of hookup wire and 
suspend the wire with a piece of cord to "something", OR uses heavier 
stiff wire that will self-support.


Now you have a resonant 1/4 wave vertical.

OR buy a 5/8 wave base-loaded 2m mobile whip - loads on 50-MHz very 
nicely.  That's an old trick for dual-band 6m/2m use.  Try brands 
like Larsen or Maxrad.


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Re: [Elecraft] Strong recommendation: MFJ 18xx-series single-band whips for KX3, etc

[Edward R Cole]

I might argue semantics with you, Charlie but get that most folks 
think a "base loading coil" is for use with shortened antennas 
(showing capacitive reactance).


The 5/8 WL Larson VHF whip (cut for 2m) does load nice on low end of 
6m.  In fact my antenna is a Larson  with NMO base mounting coil to 
NMO magnet.  Its on my truck so not accessible to check actual model 
but LM sound's correct.  I bought several at work for high-band VHF 
mobiles and recall some had HW or HD marking.


I can't recall if I every tried 6m using the Maxrad version which we 
bought later in the 15 years on my last job.  So maybe only the 
Larson brand will work this way.  We only had a few MOT antennas as 
they were cheaper without MOT brand on them.  We also installed DB 
Products antennas (not NMO base).


You can also buy the Larson NMOQ which is a 1/4 WL whip with NMO base 
but no coil.  I don't recall what whip length is supplied but I 
recall buying some mobile whips that had 96 inch whips which you 
trimmed with bolt cutters to resonant length (cutting charts were 
pretty good for obtaining good SWR on a mobile).


73, Ed

-
This only works for a 5/8  wave 2 M antenna where
the base inductor (It's NOT a * loading coil)
isn't tapped and grounded at one end.
In other words, if there is a single connection to
the antenna, this will work.
If there's a ground connection such that the
inductor is tapped up the coil it will not
function on 50 MHz.
The Larson LM series will work, but ones designed
for the Motorola (NMO) base will not.

73, Charlie k3ICH

* A 5/8 wave antenna presents roughly 50 Ohms
resistive and some level of capacitive (-J)
reactance.
In order to match this impedance, a series
inductor is required to cancel the capacitive
reactance,
So technically, it is not a "loading" which would
be designed to make up for the fact that an
antenna is too short for a ? wave resonance.
---
OR buy a 5/8 wave base-loaded 2m mobile whip -
loads on 50-MHz very nicely.  That's an old trick
for dual-band 6m/2m use.  Try brands like Larsen
or Maxrad.

73, Ed - KL7UW



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[Elecraft] Subject: Re: OT: Decoding high speed CW

[Edward R Cole]

Most of my CW work is for eme where the signal is marginal "at 
best".  Without having a large SNR on the signal I have not found any 
CW decoder to work well (skimmer seems to be best).  On CW-eme the 
output is gibberish.


Inventing a digital code designed for weak-signal is way better 
solution (eg JT65) and it decodes down 10-dB weaker than most folks 
can hear CW (I need another +6 dB for human CW copy).  Good CW ops 
prefer CW as it is "more fun" than digital - no argument.


So, CW was designed for human decoding and that still remains the 
best solution.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

[Edward R Cole]

LD,

That is why it was so hard to pass the CW tests back in the 1950's 
taking before the FCC because the test did not have any real 
words.  The entire 5 minute code test was five random character 
groups, not all of which were letters or numbers and you had to have 
one minute perfect copy to pass.  I never managed to pass at the FCC 
in Detroit with the unsmiling stern FCC employees that looked like 
they were FBI ready to haul you off to Cuba or somewhere? ;-)


So imagine my pleasure taking my 13wpm at the Anchorage FCC office in 
1982 with happy friendly faces and copying samples of an actual QSO 
with real words and only having to answer seven multiple choice 
questions about the test correctly - absolutely no comparison with 
the CW "inquisition" of the 1950's.


BTW I did get to the point that I recognized common words like "CQ", 
"de", "73", "name", "RST", "QTH", etc.  They became words in the CW 
"language".  Too bad CW isn't sent in Latin; I took two years of that 
in HS .
Only good that did me was understanding the priest at a Catholic Mass 
back in the days they still spoke in Latin.  Of course I can pick out 
a few words in Spanish and French and several other languages that 
have Latin base (like English) - .  Pretty hard to 
copy CW in Yupik Eskimo.


Good points about CW becoming a language.

73, Ed - KL7UW
dasvidaniya

---snip
That would explain why, for example, your copy speed will drop (sometimes
dramatically) when the content is blocks of random letter/number groups
instead of plain language, or if you're reading the mail on a QSO in another
language like Spanish or German (and you don't speak those languages).
---snip
73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Tokyo Hy-Power HL-1.2KFX amp interfacing (to ALC or not to ALC?)

[Edward R Cole]

I thought the best way to drive an amplifier was to increase drive 
until output no longer increased proportional to input; eg output 
increases 3-dB with an 3-dB increase in drive is linear.  Isn't the 
point the increase drops 1-dB the upper limit?


That is how I determine best drive level on VHF linear amps.  Most 
folks run up drive until they reach saturation (no change in output 
with increased drive) and then operate SSB there.  No wonder their 
voice peaks are cut off causing splatter.  BTW high speed CW should 
not be run at saturated power, either.  CW actually has bandwidth 
though at 5wpm probably not measurable 


ALC was a good concept that never worked very well (negative feedback 
gain control).  ALC meter on the K3 is useful for setting audio drive 
just to the point ALC begins to act (four bars with 5th flickering). 
But I guess all of you know that - right?


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Tokyo Hy-Power HL-1.2KFX amp interfacing (to ALC or not to ALC?)

[Edward R Cole]

Read: http://www.comportco.com/~w5alt/cw/cwindex.php?pg=5
"CW Bandwidth" by W5ALT

seems everyone in this debate has some valid points.  I found this by 
searching on "CW bandwidth".


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Edward R Cole]

My only attempt at HF in a mobile was on my old 78 Scout Traveler 
(diesel).  Before heading to AK I had a welder install a big front 
bumper with space for a winch and brush guard for front grill and 
head lights.  Alas, I never bought the winch so had a tool box 
installed in its place.  OK I used the 1-inch steel tubing as a clamp 
support for a Hustler 4BTX which I had the 80m whip option.  It stuck 
up there a ways so was only installed when I was parked.  Worked 
K4USA (I think the call was) from Eagle, AK to the Antarctic via 20m 
and 100w.  The scout was a heavy rig 4500-lbs. and had a nice steel 
frame which probably helped.


Now if you want a challenge install a 4-MHz HF Marine SSB station on 
a fishing boat (typ. 25-35 foot).  The one's with fiberglass hulls 
can be a challenge.  Most Marine HF used either 21-foot or 35-foot 
whips and had a manual tuner (In the old days vs auto-tuner now days) 
attached to something metallic right at the base of the 
antenna.  Usually had a 1-inch mesh ground strap to ground and RG-8 
to the radio.  The manual tuners had a motorized switch to select 
taps in the loading coil and jumpers for the bank of fixed tuning 
caps.  Fortunately only about six to eight channels were programmed 
as one could spend a hour easily trying to find the best combo of tap 
position and capacity.  2182-KHz was the mandatory emergency watch 
frequency and getting a good match was awful. 4125-KHz (4A) was the 
standard in AK for all the fisherman and one could hear them some 
times out to 800 mi at night.  100-125w was standard.


On my last job I installed a Harris 1kW linear to serve as Marine HF 
Base on 4125 and strung a dipole at 40-foot between two Rohn-25 
towers (nice to be a rich oil company!).  They sold them as Satellite 
telephone has largely replaced HF for commercial marine.  Boats still 
have them but little used.


Sorry about reminiscing - the topic reminded me of those days in early 1980's.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] RE KE: issue with installation of K3EXREF interface

[Edward R Cole]

Jim,

Take a look at the photos of my EXREF installation:
http://www.kl7uw.com/K3EXREF.htm

in particular the sma cable in photo one showing components of the 
kit, and the photo at the bottom showing it installed in the radio 
(case off).  You can see the brass compression ferrule.  That holds 
the shield of the coax in contact to the connector so with it broken 
off you may not have a good RF ground connection with the coax.  That 
would result in 10-MHz not reaching the EXREF board at high enough 
level.  Pretty much the same effect as not having the sma connector 
threaded on tight enough.


Why the ferrule broke could be either you overtightened the nut 
holding the sma connector to the back panel or more likely the cable 
twisted while trying to tighten the nut.  How did you hold the back 
of the connector when installing the nut?


You probably need to replace the cable assy but talk with Elecraft first.

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS: sorry the other photos are blurry.


-
From: "Jim Spears" 
To: 
Subject: [Elecraft] KE:  issue with installation of K3EXREF interface

While installing the K3EXREF SMA-TMP cable, I ran into an interesting issue
which I do not yet know if it is a problem or just interesting.

There is a ferrule or something similar over the cable where it attaches to
the SMA fitting that is installed on the back panel.  while tightening the
hex nut down, I must have torqued something as the ferrule broke into two
pieces and fell off.  I finished off the installation and verified that the
GPSDO does provide a suitable 10 MHz signal into the radio.

So the question becomes:  is this interesting or a problem?   I took a close
look and the problem might be improper grounding of the shield to the
chassis at the SMA connector end.

If it is deemed to be a potential problem, I can request a new cable from
support.  It will not take long to replace the cable.

Jim/N1NK


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them 
with a small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for 
tinning.  Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy 
glob on the iron and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot 
but could see that would work except for contamination of the solder 
if you do many.


I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is 
normally coating magnet wire.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

Ron,

Most coils I am winding are typically No.22 to No.16 solid copper 
magnet wire.  I hold the knife vertical to the wired and scrape 
sideways so never pressing into the wire - no nicks.  Eventually that 
does dull the razor blade but they are easily replaced.  The knife I 
use looks like a miniature box cutter knife.


Actually there is much greater risk using a wire stripper to nick a 
wire.  Now I suppose if you are winding a toroid with something like 
No. 28 the risk would be higher.  IN that case probably melting the 
enamel with solder iron or into solder pot is preferable.


But good to caution folks about that.  I see nicks more likely from 
stripping insulation that requires cutting completely around the wire 
while pressing down into the insulation to the wire.


73, Ed

From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
Message-ID: <001801d19032$cc8d1e60$65a75b20$@biz>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel.

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration.
---snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] When do I need atten or preamp?

[Edward R Cole]

Interesting viewpoint.

I thought it would be interesting to take a look at my local noise 
floor.  I have the PR6/10 installed on my K3 SN-4043  (new synth not 
yet installed).  Measurements in SSB - 2.8 KHz:


10m was the band I was most interested in measuring so started 
there.  I turned DIGOUT-1 = OFF and no noise?  Oh, the preamp 
switches to ext connections so I installed a BNC jumper from IN to OUT.

S=3 on noise with no preamps.
S=5 with internal PRE on
S=7 with PR6/10=ON and PRE=OFF  (DIGIOUT-1 controls the PR6/10)
So noise is pretty high with the preamp turned on (without weak 
signals unable to determine if preamp helps actual noise foor).


12m  Identical to 10m noise.

20m:  S=4/5 with PRE=OFF

40m:  S=5 with PRE=OFF

80m:  S=5 with PRE=OFF

10-20m ANT is Hygain TH3mk4 3-element yagi at 52-foot.
80/40m is fan-style inverted-V dipole with feed at 40-foot

I generally do not use the ATT as there is not a lot of QRM/QRN to 
deal with and signals are not always strong at Alaskan 
distance.  Note that I do little HF operating so generally operate 
SSB and occasional psk-31 on 20m.  Most of the time the tuner is set 
on 20m.  All tests were with tuner set for min SWR except on 80m 
where it is bypassed.


I use the PR6/10 more for 6m SSB where is definitely helps 
(interestingly the KX3 with PRE=ON works as well on 6m 
reception).  PR6/10 also necessary for weak 10m signals.


So guess that probably supports Al's observations.  One thing I would 
take exception is working "weak signals" meaning signals that are 
weaker than noise.  Top eme CW operators can receive CW that is SNR < 
-6dB.  Digital modes like JT-65 can decode at -28 dB.  So one might 
benefit from running a preamp on 12-10-6m with a K3.  I have not run 
JT-65 on HF so leave that for those who do to comment.


Observations made at 1pm on Sunday in South-central Alaska (BP40iq).

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS:  AE6JV watch your mail for delivery in a couple days!

From: Al Lorona 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] When do I need atten or preamp?
Message-ID:
<1876112178.88125.1460257728937.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I ran several simulations of the K3 receiver using Genesys (from 
Keysight Technologies) to find out how to use the attenuator and 
preamp optimally.


An article by Jim Fisk W1HR appeared in October 1975 in ham radio 
magazine where he gave the acceptable noise figure (NF) for a 
receiver on each HF band (excluding WARC bands, which didn't exist at 
the time). For instance, on 80 meters your receiver can have a NF as 
high as 37 dB (because the external noise level is so high), on 40 
the acceptable NF is 27 dB, on 20 it's 24 dB, etc.


Going by the K3 block diagram in the Owner's Manual, I made a number 
of assumptions so my numbers are undoubtedly off by a couple of dB 
(probably in the pessimistic direction). I also assumed a CW filter 
of 500 Hz, noise blanker off, and an outdoor antenna like a dipole. I 
modeled everything up to and including the 2nd IF amp. I included 
synthesizer phase noise.


Let's talk about 80 meters. As you would expect, even with the 10 dB 
attenuator switched in the K3 has more than enough sensitivity. Since 
it's not possible to hear signals below the external noise floor, it 
doesn't buy you anything to have more sensitivity than the noise 
floor. In fact, you could have up to 21 dB of attenuation and it 
would still be totally adequate, so K3S owners can use all of their 
15 dB if they want to. And definitely DO NOT ever turn on your preamp 
on 80; the only time this would be permissible is when using a small 
receiving loop direct into the RX ANT.


On 40, having the 10 dB attenuator in (and preamp out, of course) is 
still right on the good side of sensitivity. So, kick in your 
attenuator on 40 with a clear conscience... your receiver will be 
quiet, but not deaf. Additional loss will just begin to affect you on 
40, but only if you're in the habit of listening for signals right at 
the noise floor.


On 20, the 5 dB attenuator would be okay to use. Again, this is where 
K3S owners have a little more flexibility. If you have a K3 don't use 
the attenuator, unless you want to.


The preamp really isn't needed until you get to 10 meters, according 
to my simulations. Using it below 10 meters is just asking for 
unnecessary noise!


On SSB, the margins are even better [by 7 dB] because of the wider 
2.7 kHz bandwidth. And if the HF bands are noisier nowadays than in 
1975 due to plasma TVs, wireless devices and SMPSs, the K3 would have 
even more margin than I have presented here.


Al  W6LX


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] What's best Soundcard Interface for KX3

[Edward R Cole]

I assume you are talking about JT-65HF on HF bands.

I decode JT-65 signals down to -28.  -26 is 100% copy level and get 
more marginal at weaker signals.  I have decoded as low as -31 but 
that is rare.  Of course I am talking about JT-65b on 2m-eme where 
sky noise is much lower.


For WSJT10 (which is a suite of sw that includes JT-65) I run 
monaural audio from line-out from my K3.  I run JT65c on 1296 with 
this sw which only requires simple audio input thru a 
soundcard.  Bandwidth on the sw is limited to 2.5 KHz display.


I run MAP-65 on 2m-eme which requires IQ input which comes from a 
LP-Pan connected to the K3 1st IF.  I get up to 90-KHz panadaptor 
display.  The LP-Pan provides IQ into a M-Audio Delta44 soundcard 
which can provide 90-KHz bandwidth.


SDR sw require stereo soundcards with IQ baseband input.

73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 16:51:39 -0700
From: Robert Nobis 
To: George_yv5wz 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What's best Soundcard Interface for KX3
Message-ID: <1bbdc298-1100-4051-b11f-474f4ceeb...@nobis.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

George,

That is great. -24 dB is good for a built in sound card. By the way 
what version of JT65 are you using?


Note that your transmit signal level is usually critical for JT65 and 
JT9. Also, I always use VOX to key the transmitter.


73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net



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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Edward R Cole]

Charlie,

Makes me smile.  Some die-hard CW eme operator claim that JT65 
operators are playing bag-pipes!  Guess it goes with one's 
interpretation/experience 


73, Ed - KL7UW
HS Clarinet player

From: "Charlie T, K3ICH" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Carrying Case
Message-ID: <011201d195d8$51f79670$f5e6c350$@erols.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Be very careful..Those old musical instrument cases are likely to be
haunted by the ghost of the instrument it held.
The instrument, if not current IN the case will drive you nutz if it finds
that you're using for something else.
By the way Clarinets are the absolute WORST for this phenomenon.
You'll hear those spooky tweets in the middle of the night until the two are
re-united.

73, Charlie k3ICH



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[Elecraft] OT: "Octopus's Garden"

[Edward R Cole]

Try interconnecting K3 and KX3 to support 17 ham bands from 600 
meters to 10-GHz!

http://www.kl7uw.com/station%20layout.htm

Note the station block diagram (scroll down a page).  Then scroll 
down to the photos (circa 2010).  This is an "octopus's 
garden"!  Wall plate for cable ingress has 10 N-connectors and 11 UHF 
connectors and about as many control lines exiting the 
station.  There are more than 17 antenna.  Only half the stuff was 
installed in 2010.


Feel free to roam the website which will show you more of "my stuff".

Most of you aren't even close to an "octopus" ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS:  Plans now to build onto the 24x28 foot garage a 26x18 foot ham 
shack (all wiring will have to be re-run- ugh).


On 4/14/16 8:22 PM, Barry Jablonski wrote:
> In the software world it's called spaghetti code -- _in the hardware
> world it's an octopus's garden. _


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated

[Edward R Cole]

Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 16:12:54 -0400
From: "James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr." 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Just addressing the direct frequency entry issue:

I can do that with my K3 by use of Trakbox sw written by 
IK7EZN.  When coupled with the panoramic display of MAP65 I can click 
on a signal in the waterfall and click a box in MAP65 to transfer 
that to the K3.  Its not a finger touch screen but does the task 
pretty effectively.  MAP65 is a widescreen adaptation of JT65 for 
2m-eme.  MAP65 displays up to 90-KHz of bandwidth at a time and 
simultaneously decodes all JT65 signals in that bw.


Soo...I would guess all that is needed is sw to be able to accomplish 
this for HF users (maybe even that exists?? - I do so little HF).


General reply:  Found the comparison interesting.  As long as K3 has 
Elecraft support for innovation and upgrade - I have no reason to buy 
anything else - ditto KX3.


Sidenote:  Many VHF/microwave hams have tried the Flex1500 and 
abandoned it subsequently. Appears not all Flex is  of equal 
utility.  Direct VHF SDR are coming on the scene so this may affect 
the VHF-mw/eme market eventually.


For now the combo of very good HF transceiver with very good 
transverter is still setting the standards of performance for 
VHF+.  None of the all-band HF/VHF/UHF in a box come close, though 
many use them (including me in the past).


73, Ed - KL7UW
K3/10 SN 4340
KX3 SN 475
KXPA-100 SN1865
previously owned: FT-847, FT-817, FT-840, Tentec-Scout, Argonaut405, 
TS180S, IC211, SB110, etc.


==snip

What interests me most in the IC-7300 is the ability for direct entry 
of a frequency by touching the waterfall display. The P-3 does not 
offer that feature, and I?m told that it will not be available. With 
due regard to the superior performance of the K-3 receivers, I 
believe that state of the art now requires a more responsive 
Panadapter for the casual operator. BTW, I?m not expecting to part 
with my K-3.


Jimmy, WA4ILO



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Re: [Elecraft] JT65 with KX3

[Edward R Cole]

I ran the KX3 temp compensation procedure twice (the first run was a 
learning  experience so feel I got a good run on #2).  I used my AG3 
coupled with a very good freq counter.


JT65 is a synchronous code so that demands good frequency control 
(<+/- 10 Hz) and near perfect timing (< 1 second).  Both are 
essential to good decodes of very weak signals.  There is no casual 
relationship between them.  If either is off very much signals are not decoded.


I just performed frequency calibration for one of my transverter 
customers and got the 144-MHz transverter within 3-Hz (tuned heated 
xtal osc.).  The K3 shows frequency within 1-Hz at 28-MHz (using 
EXREF + ext OCXO).  Both were run for two hours before calibrating.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] JT65 with KX3

[Edward R Cole]

Don and Brian:

I had good luck just using my XG3 as signal source for the temp 
compensation on 50-MHz.

I did monitor freq on my prof. counter.

73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Don Wilhelm 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] JT65 with KX3
Message-ID: <6428dc69-b0f8-d313-c6e1-c1350236f...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Brian,

The XG50 is not really expensive and is a good stable source.  It is
'cheap' compared to the frustration factor involved with trying to use
other methods.
If you have access to an instrument lab with highly stable signal
sources in the 50MHz range, then you are all set, but most are not so
fortunate.

The problem in justifying the price is that it is seldom used once you
do the KX3 calibration.  Maybe we should create a 'ham sharing XG50'
network to allow each to pay a portion of the total cost of the XG50.
That would work fine if you have several locals with a KX3 - check with
your local club.

73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner

[Edward R Cole]

Well my guess that most hams have the tuner at the radio (or inside 
the radio).


I was trying to minimize my cost when I bought my K3/10 (only $2900 
with accessories), so I did not buy the 100w amp or atu.  I already 
had a used MFJ mobile tuner (good to 200w) so that sufficed.  The MFJ 
finally died (not worth fixing) so I bought a used Drake MN2000 
manual tuner.  It handled my CCI 300w amp (and gave a handy RF meter 
to show output).  It is in the shack (arms not long enough to reach 
the knobs on top of my tower at 50-feet).


I only have two operating HF antenna: 80-40m fan inverted-V and 
Hygain TH3mk4 triband yagi.  80m matches where I operate (75m phone) 
and 40m needs a  bit of tuner with 3:1 SWR.  The old tribander needs 
a bit on all bands.  Tuner only use is to make the ssa happy with 
providing a 50-ohm load.  Feedlines are about 80-foot.


I have one more wire antenna which is used on 600m: 43x122 foot 
inverted-L.  I has a huge base coil for matching.  SWR bw is about 
5-KHz (495-500 KHz) and efficiency is < 1%.  But my 4w ERP has been 
received in Buffalo, NY; not too shabby.  Feedline SWR runs about 1.5 
for the 100w amp.


My first transmitter was the DX35 with 6146 and pi-net output 
tank.  Peak n Dip could load anything.  SWR? whas dat?  I did not 
have a power meter.  FCC regs told me I could run 75w dc input.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner

[Edward R Cole]

I've been looking at the Steppir to replace my very old 
TH3mk4.  Actually I have been looking a several tower changes:
replace my 50-foot Rohn-25g with 45g* (if a Hazer for 45g can be 
had); add a section to the other 25g tower and move the Hazer-4 to it 
(has my HF yagi + 222 & 432 yagis); and add two sections 45g* to the 
6m-eme tower.


But I digress: The 4-element Steppir would replace two antennas and 
eliminate using a tuner 20m-6m.  But my concern is how well they 
operate under cold wx and icy-snow conditions (which is not uncommon 
in AK).  Maint. would be fairly convenient with Hazer lift to lower 
to roof-top level (tower is wall-mounted on end of house so hazer 
would drop to about 18-feet above ground).


Probably wishful thinking considering the cost of all these ideas 
(need wife approval).  But as I get older more HF operation is 
likely: mostly like chatting and a little light Dxing.  EME takes my 
serious efforts 


73, Ed - KL7UW
*Local ham has 400-foot of 45g which very unusual for up here

From: Jim Brown 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner
Message-ID: <57213f46.2060...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

On Wed,4/27/2016 2:31 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> I've had my 4 El Steppir (20-10, plus 2 more fixed el for 6 m) up for
> over ten years 1 mile from the Ocean. Zero problems.

My 3-el (no trombones) has been up on a 120 ft tower about 12 miles N of
Eric's QTH for about 7 years, also with no problems I can blame on the
antenna (but several I can blame on myself). :) I find the antenna quite
effective on all bands, 20-6M.

73, Jim K9YC


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S RJ-45 Pin Alignment

[Edward R Cole]

I've seen so many uses that were not adhering to the standard 4-pair.

But the most miserable use is as a mic connector which Motorola went 
to.  Now I see many ham radio mfr's copying.  Instead of molded 
multi-contact connector with set screw which holds contact tension 
its just wiggle wiggle that poor RJ45.


But I suppose all the old wise RF designers have retired leaving only 
the digital junkies "who said why not use a cheap RJ-45".  Bean 
counters rejoiced!


Very happily retired not having to deal with such.  I am moving more 
and more toward less use of connectors of any kind (Murphy loves 'em).


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY

[Edward R Cole]

Bob,

Already see this in recent hams joining our local ham club.  Most are 
40-60, in their later working years or recently retired, kids have 
left home and time & money available for pursuit of hobbies.  My 
finances did no turn around until age 50 to enable serious ham radio 
purchases.  I was 54 when I built my first eme station.  OK enough reminiscing.


Note to Wayne & Eric that an inexpensive entry level transceiver 
might find market with newcomers on tight budgets (eg the K1, etc.); 
something other than a VHF HT.  KX2/KX3 are still a bit much for the 
college student or newly graduated worker.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Today it my feeling those getting into ham radio will not be the 
youth of today, but will be those retired and looking to continue 
their professional associations.  Plus they can somewhat afford to 
invest the money that we youth didn?t have 60 years ago.  And today?s 
youth won?t have the available financial resources.  They have a 
family to raise, a house to buy, a vehicle to pay for and an internet 
and cell phone bill each month, along with a few credit cards and 
student loans.


Today?s new hams will be the youth of several years back.

73
Bob, K4TAX


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY

[Edward R Cole]

Mentors for ham radio:

Well, I had only one who was a young music teacher in a nearby town 
who taught a ham class in the evening.  I got my father to drive to 
them and the teacher lent me one of the paper tape CW practise 
machines to study CW.  He then gave me my Novice and Tech license exams.


There was a ham club in that town. held at the local TV shop.  Mostly 
30-50 year olds that largely ignored me, making me feel unwanted in 
their "little club".  I stopped going after 2-3 times.  I did find a 
WWII surplus VHF AM radio for $15 which a ham at another TV shop (we 
moved 30 miles) modified to  2m for me.  Owner of that shop sold me a 
35-foot TV tower for $35 and I built two 8-element yagis for 2m to 
put on the tower.


I hung out at that shop a lot and talked with them.  Mostly, I was 
self-motivated and read books from ARRL that were in the local 
library.  I only had a $2 allowance per month so it took me half a 
year to save up to buy my 3-tube receiver kit ($19.95).  I never 
thought about needing a solder iron but my dad surprised me with a 
Wen solder gun for my birthday (about $5).  Later, after passing my 
Novice, he surprised me again buying me a DX-35, which my 
teacher-mentor was selling (so he could buy a DX-100).  I did get a 
job working as a bagger at a local grocery.  Mostly, I worked on my 
dad's farm so had little time for a job in HS (for making any money).


Many years later in CA, I joined a ham club specializing in mw and 
one of them became my new boss at Goldstone (and my prof. 
mentor).  He is now sk.  Most, if not all, are now sk.  I figure 
(hope) to be around for two more sun-spot maxima.  My first was in 1958.


Mention was made of "Maker conventions".  Obvious that there is 
interest in making stuff so there is an opportunity to introduce ham radio.
A younger ham and I are embarking on holding training sessions 
(workshops) on ham radio topics this year.  First one was about APRS, 
we will do digital modes, antenna building, and hold a antenna 
measurement session.  Other topics are VHF propagation, meteor 
scatter, eme, and mw.  Just a start.


My hats off to you who mentor!

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Installing a Sub Receiver

[Edward R Cole]

I  have two of the old  synth boards for the K3.  Available for FREE 
plus $7.90 for small USPS Priority Mail box


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY

[Edward R Cole]

Quoting myself: "an inexpensive entry level transceiver might find 
market with newcomers on tight budgets (eg the K1, etc.); something 
other than a VHF HT", the $150 ten-watt HF transceiver based on SDR 
is what I was thinking of:  Today's "Heathkit Lunchbox"!


From: John Harper 
To: Elecraft list 
Subject: [Elecraft]  THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

10-80m CW and phone for $150:
http://www.hfsignals.com/


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Operating from a retirement home

[Edward R Cole]

First off, I question the legality of renting a ham station for 
profit (which this example seems to be).  But it seems to be done for 
renting stations in exotic (rare DX) locations with no heart attack 
by hamdom.  Treated as vacation rentals.


But owning your own remote located station using internet control 
from our room in assisted living seems a viable alternative.


Many of these senior facilities ban use of RF devices due to RFI 
concerns with pace maker users or medical equipment.  Maybe one could 
use a 5w HT.  External antennas are  problem-some.  My concept was 
installing my ham station in a "toy hauler" trailer with crank-up 
tower that could be moved and located in a convenient 
location.  Also, handy as emmcom station.


Also, some ham groups form a kind of club to jointly own a "super 
station" which members share.  Such a group in Switzerland own a 
45-foot dish which they share using for eme.  But organized as not-for-profit.


I do expect any contest/award operations to claim the physical 
transmitter location (instead of the remote operator's qth).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

[Edward R Cole]

In my current station layout the rack-mounted Astron-50M is separated 
from the radio shelf, so I need a 15-foot run of cable.  The Astron 
runs 14.2 vdc.  I have 13.69 v at the main power strip (handles 10ga 
wiring).  The primary dc power cable is No. 6 welding cable (more 
flexible than std No. 6) so I have a BUSS30 fuse at the main power 
strip.  The Astron is capable of 50 amps if the main cable were to 
short (cable is rated for a over 200A for welding).


I use the std power cord that came with my K3/10 and see 13.3v 
displayed by the K3 in transmit with 10w RF output.  The K3/10 does 
not draw a lot of current.  I drive a KXPA100 which has 5-foot 
Elecraft power cable (looks like No.12).  I get 100w on all bands 
with about 5w drive (only 6m requires 8w drive for 80w output).


I have not measured the voltage at the power-pole connector when in 
transmit but should be approx 13.5v based on current draw of 20 A.


I run several high power solid-state amplifiers that draw up to 50A 
at 50v so paying attention to dc voltage drop in dc wiring is quite important.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Reaching Across the Chronological Divide

[Edward R Cole]

Sub-Topic: survival in emergencies.

I had a good "taste"of that a few years ago when the road from 
Anchorage to the Kenai Peninsula (pop 60K) (where I live) was blocked 
by avalanches for three weeks.  All store products come by truck down 
that 180-mile road (there is only one road).  Power ties were cut but 
we have local generation  plants plus a hydro-plant, so outage was 
short.  My biggest emergency was feeding my twelve sled dogs; stores 
ran out animal feed real quick.


I use to live in a small town which lost power and phones during the 
avalanche.  Convenience store's freezers thawed out and town had a 
serious supply problem.  National Guard flew in a standby generator 
for them after two weeks.  Town had one gas station so ran out.  One 
ham lived there to get the word out.


Having lived ten years off the grid in that town, I had good training 
on surviving.  I had no electric, telephone, or water. Fifteen 
gallons of chainsaw fuel was my annual heating bill.  Lights and 
stove by Coleman were propane (bout three months per 
bottle).  Freezer was a military container out in a snow bank.


So about eight years ago we bought a 6500w Honda generator to power 
the house.  We have natural gas appliances and a well so only need 
electricity to be independent.  I keep 20 gallons of fuel for the 
generator which will carry us about five days.  Only have one house 
dog so that is easier.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading the Shack

[Edward R Cole]

This topic probably worn out.  I ran a small ham radio business and 
used USPS to domestic and international destinations with good 
results (most of the time).  There was one shipment to the UK that 
was sent to Canada, and another to Germany was fowarded by funkpost 
to Saudia Arabia (fortunately was returned after a week to Germany 
for deliver in-country).


Main reason to chose USPS Priority Mail was cost.  UPS/FedEX 
typically charge 150% what it costs with USPS.  But funny thing is 
seeing the UPS or FedEx trucks show up to deliver the US Mail to/from 
our local PO.


BTW overnight to AK takes 2-days; 2-day delivery is always 3-days, 
etc.  Deliveries only make it on-time to the Anchorage Airport depot; 
takes another day for delivery by truck (even to Anchorage addresses).


I'm no longer in-business.  WA2ODO-Pete Manfre quit making preamps 
last July.  I stopped making DEMI kits and W6PQL amp kits a couple years ago.


Hope everyone is having a pleasant and joyous holiday.  Maybe the K4 
will arrive by Valentines??  I'm happy with my upgraded K3/10, KX3, 
and KXPA100.  Bucket truck is scheduled to work on my 6m-eme array 
after the holidays (getting new rotator, digital encoder, and thrust bearing).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Copying CW at high speeds

[Edward R Cole]

I'm not a high speed CW operator.  Most of my operation was on 40m in 
my Novice year and a little on CW eme.


I found my self hearing complete words or character groups at about 
10wpm.  Examples: CQ, QRZ, SK, Name, RST, 73, QTH, and certain well 
known callsigns.  Others that I can't recall at the moment.  I 
usually operated eme at 15 wpm.  Back in my early years I could send 
20 wpm with a straight key.  Never mastered a paddle.


When I get back on eme I probably will send with a keyboard since my 
hand dexterity has fallen off since loosing a finger on my right 
hand.  Typing is also a challenge since missing a finger requires the 
backup finger to handle twice as many keys.  On eme I have several 
common scrips saved to send at a press of a key.  But receiving is 
still done by ear/mind.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Ameritron 240V inrush limiter: any benefit on a KPA500?

[Edward R Cole]

I used on-rush current limiting series resistors on the 240vac input 
to my 4200 volt transformer and one on the 5v filament of my 8877 
amplifier.  The filament drew normal 11A, so on-rush was 
huge.  Simple resistor-capacitor time constant timer controlled relay 
to short out large 50w and 100w  current-limiting resistors.  Relays 
were 12vdc so a diode rectified the 240vac and I supplied 12v to the 
filament relay ckt from amplifier control panel.


I also had a 100-ohm current limiting resistor on the 4200v PS output 
to protect from HV arc over's.  G3SEK Triode Board was used for bias 
and amplifier over current protection; It provided 5-minute warm-up 
delay for HV to the 8877.


I've retained my 8877 project web-page for information, though it was 
sold in 2018.  Now run only sspa's:  KXPA100, 1000w Harris on 6m, 
1500w W6PQL sspa on 2m, and 600w sspa on 1296.  No more "bangs" when 
HV goes to ground.  SSPA's all use 50v-50A switching PS.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KPA100/KAT100

[Edward R Cole]

At first I read KXPA100, not KPA100.  Of course the KXPA100 was 
designed to be a companion  to the KX3.


I have one and drive it with either my KX3 or K3/10 (10w version of the K3).

I suppose one could build an interface from KX3 to KPA100.  Basic 
need would be PTT, RF drive, and Band switching.


Years ago, I bought the 100w PA module for a HF mobile with  thoughts 
to make a "cheap 100w amp".  Never got around to it.


I did build some CCI HF kits (300w and 140w) but finally decided on 
the KXPA100/KXTA100 combo.

http://www.kl7uw.com/fs.htm

KX3+KXPA100 works nice in my mobile on HF/6m.  http://www.kl7uw.com/Mobile.htm


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] QRO - KPA500 Failure

[Edward R Cole]

I  checked the operating specs on two of my QRO amps.  Not a KPA500.

2m-1500w PA using a MRF1K50 in class AB:
945w  1398w dc  67% eff  453w disp
1511w  1888w dc 80% eff 377w disp

2m-1200w PA using a MRFE6VP61K25H in class AB:
566w  1200w dc 47% eff 634w disp
1133w 1542w dc 73% eff 409w disp

less heat dissipated when running full power RF ouput.
Both are W6PQL amps.

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] SSB Net on 20 and 40 meters

[Edward R Cole]

First off all the e-mail in the digest I received at 8:27am on 
Monday, Feb. 24 were posted on Saturday, Feb.22.  Is it normal for 
the digest to wait 48-hours before posting.  My email is set for 
auto-checking every 30-minutes.


Kevin's CW Net announcement was only 24-hours late by the time I read it.

Not to the topic 80 & 40m SSB Nets:

I tuned in 14.303.5 Sunday at 1800 utc (9am AKST) and band was dead - 
nada - no WWV on 15-MHz; not even digital stuff on 14.070.  So 
obviously did not hear the 20m net.  Made me wonder if triband yagi was broke?


Local Alaskan hams have been saying 80m is good at mid-day and not at 
night!  Very different than what I used to know.  Used to be 40m 
daytime/80m nighttime prop.


So maybe 40m might have some propagation > 800 miles???  Seattle is 
only 1400 miles away.


I only have a inverted-V and 100w for 40m but may listen March 1st.

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 antenna selection

[Edward R Cole]

630m is a 7-KHz wide band.  Probably not requiring an auto-tuner.

Most on 630m will be running a very short antenna in terms of 
wavelength which usually incorporates a large loading coil in series.


My 630m antenna is an Inverted-L 43 by 122 feet and I have a base 
coil to ground which tunes out reactance with a movable 
tap.  Matching to 50-ohms is done a couple turns up from the cold 
end.  2:1 SWR is 5-KHz wide.  Efficiency is 4%.  Radiation resistance 
is 0.8 ohms.  EIRP = 4.15w.  My K3 drives a 100w surplus NDB 
transmitter at 0.1 mw.


I QRV on 600m in 2012 as WD2XSH/45 (experimental license)

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

[Edward R Cole]

As far as a vertical mounted on solid rock, ever heard of 
radials?  Almost all analysis shows angle lowering by copious 
addition of radials to a vertical.  I suggest You find the QEX 
articles written By  Rudy-N6LF which studied radials 
thoroughly.  Even with very short radials my 630m inverted-L gets out 
over 2500-miles (at times0.


Another antenna I discovered that I really liked is the Moxon.  I has 
the gain of a two-element yagi but works well in almost all 
directions (point it toward your favorite direction).  I ran a 6m 
moxon at 0.7 wavelength height in CO during a contest and worked all 
four borders of the lower 48 states using 150w.  Worked quite well 
without turning it (pointed east).


At home I use an inverted-V with center at 40-foot and tails at 
20-foot.  Works out to 800 miles very well; works West Coast 
(3000-miles) from AK in BP40 with 100w.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

[Edward R Cole]

OK, well one can study theory for several years before deciding what 
antenna to use ... or just put up something and try it.
My guess a quarter-wave vertical with some radials will work.  How 
well?  You will only find out by trying it.


My favorite HF antenna has been the simple half-wave dipole -cheap, 
easy, quick.  I did eventually obtain a triband trap yagi for 
20-15-10m and works much better. Currently I have a 80/40m inverted-V 
...and it works well for my needs.  Worked a station on 80m SSB with 
S9 signals on Saturday at 11am!  Sure he was only a hundred+ miles 
(short range is often harder). K3/10+KXPA100


On 630m (475-KHz) I have a 43-foot high inverted-L (that is 8% of a 
quarter-wave).  And my radials are limited to 100-foot by my property 
lines.  Obviously a very poor antenna.  My CW signals was heard 4,000 
miles away in Buffalo, NY.  Not an everyday occurrence, but a surprise to me.


73, Ed

---

There is some erroneous information here, as well as in Don W3FPR's post.

Radials, whether buried or raised, only affect near field ground return
currents.? You cannot improve ground conductivity beyond the radials,
and the strength of the low angle lobe is directly affected by the
ground conductivity several wavelengths distant from the vertical.? This
is well established science and you can clearly see the effect in simple
models.

Dave?? AB7E


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] The Big Three...

[Edward R Cole]

Probably not add much of value to this discussion.

When I first got my K3 in 2010 using the internal speaker the SSB 
audio seemed harsh.  So didn't take me long to hook up my old 10-inch 
1950's era National speaker (made a lot of difference).  For 
demanding operation (usually meaning working very weak signals) I use 
a stereo headset.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
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Re: [Elecraft] 75ohm Impedance question K3S and Antenna side.

[Edward R Cole]

I agree with those who say just try it with TV cable connected, 
direct.  Tuner will keep the transmitter happy.  If you can cut the 
run to integrals of half wave that might be marginally better on 
Tx.  Back before WWII hams never worried about SWR and just maxed RF 
current.  Open-wire transmission line was popular (and low loss).


In 1980 I bought a TS-180S and a 4BTR with 80m coil-whip addition.  I 
attached the base direct to the front bumper of my 4x4 and operated 
mobile with no radials or tuner.  Heard Antarctica on 20m from Eagle, 
AK.  Should have kept the antenna.


Sold the radio after losing the finals (driver still output 
10w).  Before my K3 the best radio I owned was a FT-840.  I traded it 
for a FT-847 which was great on VHF/UHF but nowhere as good on HF 
(and part of the reason for getting the K3).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KXPA100 as a mobile?

[Edward R Cole]

I would say the pair were designed for mobile operation.  Be sure to 
use the RJ45 control cable to remotely control the KXPA100.
I installed mine in my Ford F2504x4 truck for use when traveling with 
our 30-foot 5th wheel trailer.

Details: http://www.kl7uw.com/Mobile.htm

I tried some hamsticks unsuccessfully.  Eventually will get a Tarheel 
to install on front corner of the bed.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Edward R Cole]

Maybe find an old one that still working??

My Astron 50A analog PS has been run 24/7 for 16 years (or so) and 
was in commercial use before (years?).  Previous to it  I bought an 
Astron V35M (new in 1980) which lasted many years until blowing 
(open) one of the rectifier diodes.  It sits on my workbench.


But there are some good switching supplies (properly RF filtered).  I 
only have three which is are HP 50v-50A supply* for my kilowatt 
amps.  A  toroid works well for RFI filter.  *Likely surplus 48v 
telephone equipment.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Edward R Cole]

I'm halfway thru a complete shack reorg.  Cabling not so fancy but I 
am using peg-board with tiewraps thru the holes to dress cables.  I 
have 17 external antenna cables and at least that many rotator and 
control cables going outside.  Main advantage of the reorg is 
shortening cable length to both QRO amps and 50A PS (dropping IR 
loses).  Photos on my website when complete.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Edward R Cole]

Interesting statement.  How did you determine this?

I brought home from work my professional service monitor and checked 
my K3 (SN-4340) s-meter.  Except from S0-S1 all other steps were 
exactly 6-dB.  S9 = -73 dBm as advertised.  I didn't bother much 
measuring above S9 so cannot comment on linearity in that region.


I also measured both K3 and KX3 preamps on ON/OFF on 50 & 28 MHz:
http://www.kl7uw.com/HF.htm

Note K3 sensitivity using -73 dBm on 50-MHz with internal preamp off 
was S8 and S9+5 with internal preamp on.  This was using my XG3 as 
signal source so it might be slightly inaccurate (+/- 1 dB).  I 
checked the XG3 with my mw power meter for accurate output at 0 
dBm.  Subsequent to these measurements Elecraft came out with the PR6 
to help K3 sensitivity on 10m & 6m and I have not checked whether 
that effects s-meter readings (probably).


You might note that I tested 50-MHz sensitivity using an ARR Gasfet 
preamp that has 24-dB gain.  It raises baseline noise due to the gain 
but I use it for 6m eme.  Slightly better than the PR6, but I use 
just the PR6 for non-eme use.  Built-in bypass connectors on the PR6 
make using the ARR easy to switch in/out.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 07:48:58 -0400
From: John Stengrevics 
To: Morgan Bailey 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 S-meter characteristics
Message-ID: <7373a874-0e11-493c-b404-4315ef3af...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

Agree completely.  I find all S meters to be totally inaccurate and 
next to useless, including my K3S?.



73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Edward R Cole]

Just an observation regarding Don's comment:

Last week I decided to do my radio shack reorganization (complete 
relocation of things) and one result is the main 12v line from my 
station Astron 50M PS, which is welding wire (no.6 awg?), to my main 
distribution strip was shortened from about 16 to 6-feet.  Resulting 
with 110w output on 2m FM vs 90w previous (guessing due to better 
voltage and/or lower coax loss).


One of the reasons for rearranging the station was to shorten 
cabling.  E.g. I eliminated a 20-foot runs of LMR-600 from both my 6m 
1000w PA & 2m 1500w PA.  240vac line is about 12-foot longer to my 
50v PS for the amps.  I don't expect to see much voltage sag with a 
load of 12A.  I only saw 1-volt sag in the original location.


Many of my 12v equipment power lines will also be shortened.  win-win!

73, Ed - KL7UW
630m to 3cm

Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 11:42:35 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Ron Manfredi , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Solder each power supply lead to a short length of #10 wire.  Insulate
the connection well.

73,
Don W3FPR


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant K3 Preamp vs External Preamp

[Edward R Cole]

Assuming this question is for the K3, K3S, and K4, then the only 
bands that preamp NF and preamp location matter is on 10m & 6m.


I run eme on 50, 144, and 1296 MHz; at 144 and above a so-called 
masthead preamp (close to antenna) makes a difference in receiver 
sensitivity (ability to hear the weak one's).


At 50-MHz I use an ARR P50VDG preamp at the base of my eme 
tower.  But its a very marginal improvement over using the PR6 on 
back of my K3.  For all non-eme operating I just use the PR6.  I 
believe the PR6 is not needed in the K3S and K4.


If your coax line loss is under 1-dB locating the preamp at the radio 
works fine.  Most 6m-eme stations have under 1-dB loss and place 
their preamp at the radio.


PR6 helps my 2010 era K3 on 10m as well.  I never use the internal 
preamp with either the PR6 or ARR preamps, but sometimes use it on 
20m or 17m.  30, 40, and 80m do not need any preamp as those bands 
are sky noise limited (for most of us).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant K3 Preamp vs External Preamp

[Edward R Cole]

Indeed!

Most eme'rs encounter this issue some point in their operation.

I started out on 144-MHz with only 100w on CW.  Then began use of 
digital in 2003.  But it was not until I started running above 800w 
in 2011 that I began to see preamp failure.  I like my preamps to not 
see RF over 0 dBm (1mw) so that implies the need for 61.8 dB 
isolation if running 1500w.  Initially I was using a coax relay with 
only 45-dB isolation.  So I upgraded to better relays (spec > 
80-dB).  But there are two other paths for RF to reach the 
preamp:  1) thru the dc power leads (solved by using RG-58 for my 
power leads), 2) poor shielding in coax jumper from relay to preamp 
(solved by using double-shielded RG-142).


I also use a sequencer for controlling relay and amp transfer to 
transmit (to avoid hot-switching the relay).


These are probably good arguments for using the internal preamp in a 
K3S or PR6 at the K3.  Internal TR switching protects them.


73, Ed

but the 6M antenna on which I would use it is within 10 ft of two
antennas with which I run legal limit, and I have concerns that it would
survive up there. :) My compromise is 7/8-in hard line for those
antennas, which minimizes the loss, and thus the advantage of a
mast-mounted preamp.

73, Jim K9YC


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[Edward R Cole]

I guess a lot of us took the Commercial Radiotelephone License.

I got my Novice and Technician License by my mentor.  That was the 
General Class written exam back then.  Tried several times to pass my 
General CW test at the Detroit FCC office (we lived 70-miles away so 
not qualified for a Conditional).  By 1962 I was an EE student in 
college with no time for upgrading (or any ham radio).


In 1971 I was laid off from Hughes Aircraft along with thousands of 
other engineers so my job prospects were bleak.  I decided to take my 
2nd Class license to qualify for work for radio or TV broadcast.  The 
theory exam was twice as tough as the Extra in my opinion.


In 1982, I found a job working in marine electronics so pricked up 
the Radar Endorsement.  I also passed my Advanced in 1982 at the 
Anchorage FCC.  CW test had been downgraded to a multiple question 
exam about plain language text message vs the five mixed character 
groups back in Detroit.  Yeah those Detroit FCC guys could have 
passed as FBI guys.


In 1983 my 2nd class finally netted me a job as engineer for KYUK-TV 
in Bethel, AK (I flew out to into the bush to repair the TV 
translator network).


Wasn't until 2000 did I pass the Extra (downgraded to 13wpm).  Missed 
two questions on the written exam (because I knew more than the test 
designers and many of the answers were incorrect).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Great KPA Fan Mystery

[Edward R Cole]

My comment NOT about Elecraft cooling design, but:

I am finding a lot of amplifier designs place fans to exhaust heated 
air with cool air being drawn into the heat sink by the partial 
vacuum created by the fans.


My 6m converted Harris ch.2 TV linear is set up this way (amp has 
openings in the chassis to circuits on input side as well as the 
final transistors).


My W6PQL 1296 LDMOS 600w amp is cooled in the same fashion.

Only departure is my W6PQL 2m-1500w linear that has four 2-inch 
square fans blowing cool air into the heat sink.  But I augmented air 
flow by adding a 4-inch exhaust fan on enclosure top cover.  The 
intake fans were separated from the heat sink by a 2-inch gap which 
bothered me,so added sheet metal fairings to channel air to the heat 
sink.  Seems to work as heat sink temp remains topped out at 39c 
running 1400w with JT65 (Overtemp trips off 50v supply at 55c).


Even my old 2m-8877 with blower had a 7-inch radial exhaust fan to 
reduce back pressure on the blower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?

[Edward R Cole]

That seems excessive (shows good engineering).

FM seems to be the hardest mode on amps.  If you are long-winded 
probably exceed 3-minutes which is common Time-out-timer limit on 
commercial FM gear (and several ham rigs, too).  I have a fan switch 
on my 150w 2m amp and too often forget to switch it on when operating 
FM.  My 222 FM 30w radio has built-in TOT which shuts off Tx at 
3-minutes of transmit.


On my QRO sspa's I try not to do any key-down tests over a minute in 
length (and they are designed for JT65 service).  Having overtemp 
protection and SWR protection is good insurance for protecting those 
expensive components.  All my amps have that.


Maybe someday I will own a KPA500 (do very little HF and have a 1000w 6m sspa).

73, Ed - KL7UW

I once blew up a 500w dummy load by excessive transmit time running 
1200w.  Had that old Sierra MW for about 30-years.  Now have a 
surplus 500w Bird dummy.



Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 09:11:56 -0700
From: Jack Brindle 
To: Dave Cole 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?
Message-ID: <8d7f4c18-45f5-408a-b13b-e0bff47a9...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

From the KPA500 manual, Rev E1, page 41 Specifications:
Duty Cycle at 500 Watts 10 minutes key down / 5 minutes standby

Sometimes it is very worth while to read the manual. It gives me 
something to do when being stuck at home for so long gets me down.


73!
Jack, W6FB


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 digital 0ps?

[Edward R Cole]

For running the KX3 on digital modes, I bought the Rigblaster OHMIC 
on suggestion by W7GJ:
http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/KX3.htm 



Probably not make as many modification as I will just connect CW key 
to the KEY jack.  I'm not doing eme with the KX3 so need the simpler 
interface set up (only requires DTR for transmit keying).


Have not actually used it yet.  I bought it for our RV trip in 2018, 
AK to MI (11K miles R/T).


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] CM500 headset on K3S and KX3?

[Edward R Cole]

A couple years ago I bought the CM500 based on al the nice comments 
by others on this list.  They failed me terribly; set up howling like 
a banshee minute I put them on (over my hearing aids) and not even 
connected to the radio.  My hearing so poor that the amount of gain 
in my hearing aids fed back inside the acoustics of the 
ear-piece.  No amount of fiddling with the headset stopped the 
feedback, so went back to wearing my Sony MDR-V600 stereo headset 
(which work well with my hearing aids).  One if you bought the new 
CM500 from me for a nice discount, so I didn't loose out completely.


I got a lot of advice back then which did not help/fix the problem 
(not wearing the hearing aids and turning up radio volume was one).


In stead, I found a boom mic that attached to my Sony headset via an 
earth magnet "thingy" and that got FB audio reports.  The mic has a 
foam wind-blast reducer and selectable omni or cardiod pattern pick 
up.  Haven't really used the combo as I normally use my  Heil desk 
mic in the shack.  The boom mic was obtained for operating portable outdoors.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Rig forCW

[Edward R Cole]

OK.  So lets look at what 15-dB does with 10w; answer 316w.  So if 
you bought a KPA500 might feel that's wasting its full potential.  If 
you had a K3/10 or K3s/10 they put out 15w with the firmware 
upgrade.  That would result in 474w.  474/600 is 1-dB.


But then what is the cost differential between a new KX3 and a used K3/100?

Guess other factors might make one more attractive over the other.

My approach was a K3/10 and then a KX3, followed by a KXPA100.  More 
expensive than a basic K3/100 but you can buy a new KX3 or KXPA100 
but not a new K3s.  In my opinion (whatever that's worth) the KX3 
measures up with my K3 pretty well for basic operating (plus smaller 
foot print for the apartment liver).  In full-out urban ham radio 
competition the K3 wins!


Ed - KL7UW .. a long way from urbana
---
From: W0FK 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rig forCW

AI4NS wrote

> Newer LDMOS amps don?t need much input power to develop full output. I am
> building a 600W amp that needs about 3watts input. My KX3 will do
> just fine. In fact I had an input attenuator made that will allow full
> power from the KX3 drive the amp at full power. I also have a K3/10.
>
> Mike
> AI4NS

That's fine for a homebrewed amp, but the FCC's 15dB gain limitation on
commercial amps makes the input power from a QRP rig like the KX3 limiting
relative to output power.

73, Lou, W0FK


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Establishing A New Station

[Edward R Cole]

Look at my website for example of KX3 plus KXPA100 installed in an RV 
(4wd truck, in my case, which tows a 5th wheel):

http://www.kl7uw.com/Mobile.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

[Edward R Cole]

I agree with what Bob says:

So a couple comments:
Whether we realize it (or not) the pandemic "is" an emergency, so 
this year's FD has different restrictions which may not be supported 
by the "contest rules".


15-years as communications chief for an emergency response 
organization, the overwhelming reality was every event is different 
and response must adjust to the changed circumstances.  I wrote the 
"Comm Plan" for each event for ICS.  Now retired eleven years.


IF you operate FD from home you can simulate some issues (like 
antenna down or no power).  Or if allowed operating in remote 
locations try single-op mobile/portable.


I have a home emergency generator so might simulate loss of power at 
home running 100w on 20m & 6m.


Our local club is still planning on a traditional FD (but state 
mandates may not allow).


73, Ed - KL7UW

--
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD
Message-ID: <657b1354-b2bb-0500-ca82-5a9d6b319...@blomand.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

I agree, specially on the first sentence.?? I've been participating in
FD since the very early '60's.? However it has become a "contest" to see
who and what organization can accumulate the most points.? A contact is
a contact, a multiplier is a mathematical term.??? It has no place in
Field Day operation.


73

Bob, K4TAX


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Edward R Cole]

Just read the KX3 (with upgraded firmware) does 15w output, so 31.6* 
x 15w = 474w from a KPA500; *15-dB.


I have the KX3 but not the KPA500.

73, Ed - KL7UW

From: "hawley, charles j jr" 
To: Tommy Judson 
Cc: Edward via Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Availability

I think I would get the KX3 which is in stock and maybe the KPA500 
and KAT500. I?m not a 1500 watt guy. The KX3 can drive that to 250 
watts or so...and get the K4 later.

The KX3 would be a fun radio to keep.

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Edward R Cole]

My two cents worth:

Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered 
by two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax 
cable connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water 
exposure.  Removing 5-years afterward, connectors were still 
bright,dry, and looking like new.


Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for 
it). But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North 
Pacific with very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to work.


At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly 
reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of 
Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.


I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into 
a seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.


Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a 
melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is 
not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure 
you can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 
4-foot chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink 
and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply house.


When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and 
breaks.  That's not when I want to climb a tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
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