Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 5i23 7i39 - possible damage?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
Hello again!

I checked 7i39 manual 2 more times, did not find any warning that
would tell not to pull up to 5V, so I turned PC off and set all the
5i23 connectors to pull up to 5V.

What I am seeing now makes me think that there is something wrong:

In HAL file I have:
setp hm2_[HOSTMOT2](BOARD).0.gpio.040.is_output 1
setp hm2_[HOSTMOT2](BOARD).0.gpio.040.invert_output 1

When output is false:
There are 3,46V between 5i23 pin and GND.
There are 1,68V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

When output is true:
There are 0.6V between 5i23 pin and GND.
There are 4.65V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

I measured: it actually has 5,4V between +5V and GND.

I think that voltages, when output is true are ok, but I think that
there is something wrong with the false state.

Am I missing something here?

Viesturs

2012/1/27 Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com:
 Hello!

 In my attempts to understand, why I cannot get my diy output driver
 for switching the laser power on/off, I discovered that 5i23's gpio
 pins aru pulled up to only 3,3V, not 5V, when turned off, so there is
 1,7 V still remaining supplied to optoisolator.
 There are jumpers on 5i23 that determine, if pins are pulled up to 3,3 or 5V.
 I have 7i39 card attached to the same connector. Is there a chance for
 possible damage for 7i39, if I will set that connector to pull up all
 pins to 5V instead of 3,3V?

 Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] question about tapered threading (etc)

2012-01-27 Thread Steve Blackmore
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 22:06:30 +, you wrote:

On 26 January 2012 21:55, Steve Blackmore st...@pilotltd.net wrote:

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/delectron/g-code-programming-manual/14577-33189-_23.html

 Andy - that is for Milling Machines.

Typical function for lathes, can also be used in milling machines is
what it says.

Read the following

CNC Programming Handbook by Peter Smid, a must for everyone who wants
to know about CNC programming and even those who think they already do
:) 

Machinery's Handbook, Fanuc or Siemens and all the DIN, ISO, BS
standards define the pitch along the long axis, not the taper. 

I'm not asking that the existing G33 be abandoned, just an addition,
correct version added, preferably using G32.

Steve Blackmore
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[Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
Hello, folks!

I would appreciate some advice on servo tuning.
I have Keling Nema23 BLDC servo motors attached to Mesa 7i39.
And also zero experience with this :)

The way I am doing the tuning is:
1) start Emc, hit F1 and F2;
2) open Machine - Calibration;
3) change P value, for example, from 1 to 3, press Test and then try
jogging the joint;
4) my target max velocity is 10m/min, which would require 4000 rpm on
motor, so I start jogging at 1100 mm/min - seems fine, increase speed
to ~3000 mm/min and motor starts oscillating;

When motor starts oscillating, I hit F2 to disable any movement and motor stops;
So here I would like to change some PID values and then try again.
The problem I have encountered is:
Motor starts oscillating again as soon as I hit F2 regardless of what
are the PID settings. If I restart Emc and start over, it is fine with
the same PID settings until the moment it gets a chance to start
oscillating again - then I cannot stop it from doing that. Setting PID
values back to default also does not help - it will oscillate anyway.

Why on earth would it oscillate as soon as motion is enabled? Is there
a way to aviod it?

Default PID values are:

DEADBAND =  0.000
P = 1
I = 0
D = 0
FF0 =   1
FF1 =   1
FF2 =   0
BIAS =  0

I have been playing only with P parameter so far, following this guideline:
1) increase P up to the moment, when motor becomes unstable;
2) add I to make it stable;
3) add D to make the loop stiffer;

In my previous attempts I had:
DEADBAND =  0.0005
P = 90
I = 40
D = 1,65
FF0 = 0
FF1 = 1,5
FF2 = 0
BIAS = 0,0005

From previous discussions I recall that FF1 should be very close to 1,
like 1,001 or something like that. Since I have it larger, I decided
to start over, because the motor still was oscillating at 2700 mm/min.

Viesturs

P.S. How hard would it be to create some kind of auto-tuning routine?

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Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 5i23 7i39 - possible damage?

2012-01-27 Thread Peter C. Wallace

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:


Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 10:10:02 +0200
From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 5i23  7i39 - possible damage?

Hello again!


I checked 7i39 manual 2 more times, did not find any warning that
would tell not to pull up to 5V, so I turned PC off and set all the
5i23 connectors to pull up to 5V.

What I am seeing now makes me think that there is something wrong:

In HAL file I have:
setp hm2_[HOSTMOT2](BOARD).0.gpio.040.is_output 1
setp hm2_[HOSTMOT2](BOARD).0.gpio.040.invert_output 1

When output is false:
There are 3,46V between 5i23 pin and GND.
There are 1,68V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

When output is true:
There are 0.6V between 5i23 pin and GND.
There are 4.65V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

I measured: it actually has 5,4V between +5V and GND.

I think that voltages, when output is true are ok, but I think that
there is something wrong with the false state.

Am I missing something here?

Viesturs


This is expected. The FPGA outputs only swing to 3.3V when driven by the FPGA, 
You can get 5V output swing, but only if you set the FPGA outputs you wish to 
have 5V swing to open drain mode and you have the connector (W1,W4,W7) set to 
5V (UP) and pullup power (W2,W5,W8)  set to 5V (UP) and bus switch mode 
(W3,W6,W9) set to 5V (UP)


Note that in open drain mode the the output can sink significant current
(pull the output down) but can only source what the pullup resistor supplies 
(~1.6 mA from 3.3K pullup returned to 5V with output grounded)




2012/1/27 Viesturs L??cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com:

Hello!

In my attempts to understand, why I cannot get my diy output driver
for switching the laser power on/off, I discovered that 5i23's gpio
pins aru pulled up to only 3,3V, not 5V, when turned off, so there is
1,7 V still remaining supplied to optoisolator.
There are jumpers on 5i23 that determine, if pins are pulled up to 3,3 or 5V.
I have 7i39 card attached to the same connector. Is there a chance for
possible damage for 7i39, if I will set that connector to pull up all
pins to 5V instead of 3,3V?

Viesturs


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Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Peter C. Wallace
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 11:45:30 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?
 
 Hello, folks!

 I would appreciate some advice on servo tuning.
 I have Keling Nema23 BLDC servo motors attached to Mesa 7i39.
 And also zero experience with this :)

 The way I am doing the tuning is:
 1) start Emc, hit F1 and F2;
 2) open Machine - Calibration;
 3) change P value, for example, from 1 to 3, press Test and then try
 jogging the joint;
 4) my target max velocity is 10m/min, which would require 4000 rpm on
 motor, so I start jogging at 1100 mm/min - seems fine, increase speed
 to ~3000 mm/min and motor starts oscillating;

 When motor starts oscillating, I hit F2 to disable any movement and motor 
 stops;
 So here I would like to change some PID values and then try again.
 The problem I have encountered is:
 Motor starts oscillating again as soon as I hit F2 regardless of what
 are the PID settings. If I restart Emc and start over, it is fine with
 the same PID settings until the moment it gets a chance to start
 oscillating again - then I cannot stop it from doing that. Setting PID
 values back to default also does not help - it will oscillate anyway.

 Why on earth would it oscillate as soon as motion is enabled? Is there
 a way to aviod it?

 Default PID values are:

 DEADBAND =  0.000
 P = 1
 I = 0
 D = 0
 FF0 =   1
 FF1 =   1
 FF2 = 0
 BIAS =  0


Start with no FF0 and FF1


 I have been playing only with P parameter so far, following this guideline:
 1) increase P up to the moment, when motor becomes unstable;
 2) add I to make it stable;
 3) add D to make the loop stiffer;




This is wrong, you add D to  make it more stable not I

I is added in small does only when all other tuning is close to remove the 
last bit of static error and slew errors

 In my previous attempts I had:
 DEADBAND =  0.0005
 P = 90
 I = 40
 D = 1,65
 FF0 = 0
 FF1 = 1,5
 FF2 = 0
 BIAS = 0,0005

 From previous discussions I recall that FF1 should be very close to 1,
 like 1,001 or something like that. Since I have it larger, I decided
 to start over, because the motor still was oscillating at 2700 mm/min.

 Viesturs

 P.S. How hard would it be to create some kind of auto-tuning routine?


FF1 will only be close to 1 with the PID/PWM scale set correctly for the 
situation

BTW what is you sample period? depending on motor poles and RPM required you 
may need to decrease the sample period from the default 1 ma to maybe 250 uSec 
(4 KHz)


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Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

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Re: [Emc-users] question about tapered threading (etc)

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 08:32, Steve Blackmore st...@pilotltd.net wrote:

 I'm not asking that the existing G33 be abandoned, just an addition,
 correct version added, preferably using G32.

As I said earlier, that's fairly easy to do with the G-code remapping
functions in version 2.6.

-- 
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The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 5i23 7i39 - possible damage?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 08:10, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 When output is false:
 There are 3,46V between 5i23 pin and GND.
 There are 1,68V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

 When output is true:
 There are 0.6V between 5i23 pin and GND.
 There are 4.65V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

I think that should be OK. What the setting you have made does is make
the outputs 5V-safe, rather than into 5V outputs.
The trick is to use them as sinking outputs. You connect the opto +5V
to the +5V rail, and the opto 0V pin to the 5i23.
When the pin is high, no current flows. When the pin is low, current flows.

-- 
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The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 11:45:30 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
     emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 Hello, folks!

 I would appreciate some advice on servo tuning.
 I have Keling Nema23 BLDC servo motors attached to Mesa 7i39.
 And also zero experience with this :)

 The way I am doing the tuning is:
 1) start Emc, hit F1 and F2;
 2) open Machine - Calibration;
 3) change P value, for example, from 1 to 3, press Test and then try
 jogging the joint;
 4) my target max velocity is 10m/min, which would require 4000 rpm on
 motor, so I start jogging at 1100 mm/min - seems fine, increase speed
 to ~3000 mm/min and motor starts oscillating;

 When motor starts oscillating, I hit F2 to disable any movement and motor 
 stops;
 So here I would like to change some PID values and then try again.
 The problem I have encountered is:
 Motor starts oscillating again as soon as I hit F2 regardless of what
 are the PID settings. If I restart Emc and start over, it is fine with
 the same PID settings until the moment it gets a chance to start
 oscillating again - then I cannot stop it from doing that. Setting PID
 values back to default also does not help - it will oscillate anyway.

 Why on earth would it oscillate as soon as motion is enabled? Is there
 a way to aviod it?

 Default PID values are:

 DEADBAND =              0.000
 P =                     1
 I =                     0
 D =                     0
 FF0 =                   1
 FF1 =                   1
 FF2 =                 0
 BIAS =                  0


 Start with no FF0 and FF1

 This is wrong, you add D to  make it more stable not I

 I is added in small does only when all other tuning is close to remove the
 last bit of static error and slew errors


Ok, thank You, I will try that out in a minute.


 FF1 will only be close to 1 with the PID/PWM scale set correctly for the
 situation


In INI fie I have:

INPUT_SCALE =   3276.8
OUTPUT_SCALE =  166.667
OUTPUT_OFFSET = 0.0
MAX_OUTPUT =166.667

Input scale is encoder pulses per machine unit - pulses per 1 mm in my case.

But even Integrator's manual does not help me understand, what to do
with the scale value and maxoutput value.


 BTW what is you sample period? depending on motor poles and RPM required you
 may need to decrease the sample period from the default 1 ma to maybe 250 uSec
 (4 KHz)

Servo period is default 1ms.
Motors have 4 poles, target is 4000 RPM, motors have 2048 CPR (8192
PPR) encoders.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 5i23 7i39 - possible damage?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 08:10, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 When output is false:
 There are 3,46V between 5i23 pin and GND.
 There are 1,68V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

 When output is true:
 There are 0.6V between 5i23 pin and GND.
 There are 4.65V between 5i23 pin and +5V.

 I think that should be OK. What the setting you have made does is make
 the outputs 5V-safe, rather than into 5V outputs.
 The trick is to use them as sinking outputs. You connect the opto +5V
 to the +5V rail, and the opto 0V pin to the 5i23.
 When the pin is high, no current flows. When the pin is low, current flows.


Thanks, Peter and Andy!
It seems that the output pin is working correctly.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:


 I have been playing only with P parameter so far, following this guideline:
 1) increase P up to the moment, when motor becomes unstable;
 2) add I to make it stable;
 3) add D to make the loop stiffer;




 This is wrong, you add D to  make it more stable not I

 I is added in small does only when all other tuning is close to remove the
 last bit of static error and slew errors


Peter, according to You, there is a mistake in manual.

Integrator's manual, page 158, section of PID tuning with simple method:

If the system must remain on line, one tuning method is to first set
the I and D values to zero. Increase the P until the output
of the loop oscillates. Then increase I until oscillation stops.
Finally, increase D until the loop is acceptably quick to reach its
reference.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/26 Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com:
 On Thu, 2012-01-26 at 08:40 +0200, Viesturs Lācis wrote:

  An off-the-shelf solid state relay might do the job too.

The relay was my first idea, but it turned out pretty quickly that
there are no such relays that could be driven directly by Mesa card -
even those with 5V coils on control side would require too much
current for gpio pin to sink - I think that smallest I found was
around 100 mA.


I just wanted to tell that I resoldered optoisolator and now it is
kind of working correctly.
Laser is shining.
The problem is that it is not burning the wood.
Is the voltage drop in the wiring too high?
How can I help there - use thicker wire leads?

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Peter Blodow
Viesturs,
it seems to me that your laser diode is just acting as a normal LED, 
not as a laser. This state is only achieved at a very distinct point up 
on top of the voltage/current curve. The laser diode supply electronics 
must take care of this which is a rather delicate controlling task. In 
other words, the producer of that electronics thing is responsible for 
keeping the correct working point. Mostly there isn't much to adjust on 
them. Are you sure you are using the correct supply voltage as 
specified? If this certain voltage is not reached, the diode will not be 
brought up to the laser point, if it is too high, the diode could soon 
release its magic smoke.

Peter

 I just wanted to tell that I resoldered optoisolator and now it is
 kind of working correctly.
 Laser is shining.
 The problem is that it is not burning the wood.
 Is the voltage drop in the wiring too high?
 How can I help there - use thicker wire leads?

 Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 10:07:52 AM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/26 Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com:
  On Thu, 2012-01-26 at 08:40 +0200, Viesturs Lؤپcis wrote:
   An off-the-shelf solid state relay might do the job too.
 
 The relay was my first idea, but it turned out pretty quickly that
 there are no such relays that could be driven directly by Mesa card -
 even those with 5V coils on control side would require too much
 current for gpio pin to sink - I think that smallest I found was
 around 100 mA.
 
 
 I just wanted to tell that I resoldered optoisolator and now it is
 kind of working correctly.
 Laser is shining.
 The problem is that it is not burning the wood.
 Is the voltage drop in the wiring too high?
 How can I help there - use thicker wire leads?
 
That could be one bit of help, but I would be making measurements to 
determine where the loss is. The idea being to grease the loudest squeek 
first. :)

Does it burn wood if your circuit is bypassed?

How much voltage is the supply making when the laser is on by bypassing 
your circuit?  Measure at the supply, and at the laser to get an idea of 
the wiring losses.  More than a .05 volt difference and I would up the wire 
gage.

If loss in your circuit is the difference in whether it burns wood at a 
usable feed rate or not, then how much on state voltage loss there is in 
that output transistor?, which could be anything from 150 to 6 or 700 milli 
volts.

This is one of the reasons I suggested the use of a power hexfet device 
earlier in this thread, which when forward biased by at least 5 volts, 
could reduce that particular loss to 10 or 20 milli volts as they have on 
resistances in the milli-ohm range.

It (the hexfet) also switches states 10 to 1000 times faster than a 2n3055 
when given adequately low impedance gate drive.  When switching at high 
rates, which you aren't here, the hexfet runs cool, not hot.  The gate of a 
hexfet can look like driving a .1 microfarad capacitor for the really big 
ones, so lots of drive is needed to prevent as much as possible, the heat 
surge when it is in the middle of the switching transition.  Even small 
ones can be effectively a .005 u-f capacitor.  This means the driver stage 
will need large, low impedance bypass capacitors right on its power pins, 2 
u-f paper/mylar would not be overkill in higher current circuits.

Because old faded to too low a voltage computer PSU's are replaced 99% of 
the time because the capacitors have failed, they can be an excellent 
source of power hexfet's for a circuit like this.  You can have a suitable 
hexfet in your hand in half an hour, but while extracting it, wrap some 
bare wire wrapping wire around all 3 pins so that it is shorted and won't 
be blown by static.  Don't remove the shorting wire until it is in your new 
circuit.

You can usually use the numbers stamped on these devices to look them up 
and download the data sheet pdf, I have been able to at least.

A good driver for a hexfet can be cobbled up out of a 4000 family cmos hex 
invertor by using all 6 gates in the package in parallel, and your 4n2x can 
drive it direct with a suitable pullup resistor to the 5 volt rail  let 
the 4n2x pull that point to ground when on.  That will drive the outputs of 
the hex invertor high going all the way to the + rail, turning on the 
hexfet at the same time to 4n2x is on.

I would expect that today, there are better devices than the 4000 family 
cmos to do such a job, but the 4000 families ability to work at supply rail 
voltages well above their nominal 15 volt rating has been amazing to me.  I 
once used a 4028 hex decoder to add edging signals to a character generator 
at a tv station in about 1979, bearing in mind they get faster at the 
higher voltages.  It worked well but slightly warm at 28 volts for many 
years.  What I am saying here is that my knowledge of available parts to do 
a certain job is dated, like me.  :)

What is the current in amps this laser needs from its nominally 5 volt 
supply?

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter Blodow p.blo...@dreki.de:
 Viesturs,
 it seems to me that your laser diode is just acting as a normal LED,
 not as a laser. This state is only achieved at a very distinct point up
 on top of the voltage/current curve. The laser diode supply electronics
 must take care of this which is a rather delicate controlling task. In
 other words, the producer of that electronics thing is responsible for
 keeping the correct working point. Mostly there isn't much to adjust on
 them. Are you sure you are using the correct supply voltage as
 specified? If this certain voltage is not reached, the diode will not be
 brought up to the laser point, if it is too high, the diode could soon
 release its magic smoke.


Thanks, Peter!
Well, it has a separate board with several capacitors, resistors and
something with 3 legs, large heatsink and LM317T written on it.
It is written that it requires 12VDC and consumes ~1A. I am providing
the power from PC's PSU.

Gene, thank You for explanation! I really appreciate Your help and
detailed information, but all I understood from that - I can extract a
hexfet from dead PC PSU. All the remaining stuff, including use of
hexfet and driving it - it is beyond my knowledge of electronics.


Laser _was_ burning wood, when attached directly (with less than 1 m
long, 0,5mm^2 wire) to the driver board. It did not want to burn wood
(but at least it was shining), when attached, where it belongs, on top
of the Z plate. There is ~5m of very thin wire, going up there.
Now I cannot get it to shine even when attached back directly to
driver board. That crap is driving me nuts...

But I also have untuned servo problem running in parallel to this, so
it seems that I am stuck here for at least one more day.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 12:08:34 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 Peter Blodow p.blo...@dreki.de:
  Viesturs,
  it seems to me that your laser diode is just acting as a normal LED,
  not as a laser. This state is only achieved at a very distinct point
  up on top of the voltage/current curve. The laser diode supply
  electronics must take care of this which is a rather delicate
  controlling task. In other words, the producer of that electronics
  thing is responsible for keeping the correct working point. Mostly
  there isn't much to adjust on them. Are you sure you are using the
  correct supply voltage as specified? If this certain voltage is not
  reached, the diode will not be brought up to the laser point, if it
  is too high, the diode could soon release its magic smoke.
 
 Thanks, Peter!
 Well, it has a separate board with several capacitors, resistors and
 something with 3 legs, large heatsink and LM317T written on it.
 It is written that it requires 12VDC and consumes ~1A. I am providing
 the power from PC's PSU.
 
Is there perchance an adjustment potentiometer?  The LM317T is a linear 
regulator device and could be made adjustable so as to compensate for the 
wiring and switching loss in your controller.

 Gene, thank You for explanation! I really appreciate Your help and
 detailed information, but all I understood from that - I can extract a
 hexfet from dead PC PSU. All the remaining stuff, including use of
 hexfet and driving it - it is beyond my knowledge of electronics.
 
I'm sorry.  I try to describe things in understandable terms and obviously 
I didn't bridge the gap very well.
 
 Laser _was_ burning wood, when attached directly (with less than 1 m
 long, 0,5mm^2 wire) to the driver board. It did not want to burn wood
 (but at least it was shining), when attached, where it belongs, on top
 of the Z plate. There is ~5m of very thin wire, going up there.
 Now I cannot get it to shine even when attached back directly to
 driver board. That crap is driving me nuts...

That very thin wire will probably need replaced with something heavier 
while maintaining flexibility for long life.  Or perhaps the LM317T needs 
turned up a few hundred millivolts.  See the sample schematic shown here:

http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html#Overview

Perhaps the maker used a fixed resistor in place of R2, the adjustable one?
Given parts tolerances it could already be borderline low.
Given that 20-100 millisecond response time probably won't be a show 
stopper, another thought that may be easier for you to fab on site would be 
to use your controller circuit to switch a relay.  That, and heavier wire 
might be the better method as opposed to turning the supply up .250 
additional volts because someone may replace a future broken cable with an 
even heavier one which would let the magic smoke out of the laser.

 But I also have untuned servo problem running in parallel to this, so
 it seems that I am stuck here for at least one more day.
 
 Viesturs
 
 
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Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Fri, 2012-01-27 at 16:55 +0200, Viesturs Lācis wrote:
 2012/1/26 Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com:
  On Thu, 2012-01-26 at 08:40 +0200, Viesturs Lācis wrote:
 
   An off-the-shelf solid state relay might do the job too.
 
 The relay was my first idea, but it turned out pretty quickly that
 there are no such relays that could be driven directly by Mesa card -
 even those with 5V coils on control side would require too much
 current for gpio pin to sink - I think that smallest I found was
 around 100 mA.

Solid state relays generally have an opto-isolator built in, with the
same LED input, so only require a few milliamps to turn on. For
instance:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/DC60S3/CC1126-ND/221844 
http://www.crydom.com/en/Tech/crydom_us.pdf 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid_state_relay 

A couple of things to note, ssr's don't turn OFF all the way, they have
a very slight leakage, which mechanical relays don't do since the
contacts are separated by air. Also, it is temping to use AC ssr's with
a DC load, but this won't work because the AC relays need the AC zero
crossing in order to switch OFF.

 I just wanted to tell that I resoldered optoisolator and now it is
 kind of working correctly.
 Laser is shining.
 The problem is that it is not burning the wood.
 Is the voltage drop in the wiring too high?
 How can I help there - use thicker wire leads?
 
 Viesturs

Measure the voltage at the laser with a meter across the GND and dc 9
- 12 volt terminals. If it dips below 9 Volts you most likely need to
find a way to bring the voltage up. It apears the laser needs only 1.3
Amps so any decently sized wire should work fine. Check to make sure the
TTL terminal comes up to TTL voltage level, maybe between 3 and 5 Volts.
I believe LinuxCNC should feed this pin with a 20kHz PWM or PDM signal
to control the laser's output strength. Also check to make sure the
laser can focus on the target.

-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:

 Is there perchance an adjustment potentiometer?  The LM317T is a linear
 regulator device and could be made adjustable so as to compensate for the
 wiring and switching loss in your controller.


Nope, I see 2 resistors in series for the middle leg.


 I'm sorry.  I try to describe things in understandable terms and obviously
 I didn't bridge the gap very well.


I think that You did pretty well, it is just thatI do not get that
pretty well :)


 That very thin wire will probably need replaced with something heavier
 while maintaining flexibility for long life.  Or perhaps the LM317T needs
 turned up a few hundred millivolts.  See the sample schematic shown here:

 http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html#Overview

 Perhaps the maker used a fixed resistor in place of R2, the adjustable one?
 Given parts tolerances it could already be borderline low.
 Given that 20-100 millisecond response time probably won't be a show
 stopper, another thought that may be easier for you to fab on site would be
 to use your controller circuit to switch a relay.  That, and heavier wire
 might be the better method as opposed to turning the supply up .250
 additional volts because someone may replace a future broken cable with an
 even heavier one which would let the magic smoke out of the laser.

I looked carefully and it looks to me that there are 2 resistors in
series, where is R1 in that scheme and that connection to GND through
R2 - I do not see that.

Ok, I think I have to explain one thing that was missed and seems to
be misunderstood:
I do not want to detach laser board from the laser itself - they are
connected with ~40cm of wire and I would like to keep it that way.
That thin wire is between my diy driver and the laser board.
So I will try to figure out, how to replace the wire.

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Kirk Wallace
For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
Viesturs has.

eBay laser with controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Laser-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item2a1771bee9#ht_2189wt_1080
 
Short URL: http://alturl.com/9t7fg 

Peak Wavelength  :  808 nm
Color:  Infrared
Visibility   :  INVISIBLE
Diode Beam divergence:  12/100 deg.
Emitting area:  50 x 2 µm
Module Output Power  :  800 mW
Diode Output Power   :  1000 mW
Modulation   :  TTL
Max. Modulation Frequency:  20 KHz
Focus Range  :  1 inch to 5 inches
Warm Up Time :   1 Minute
Power Stability  :  %5, 20 minutes
Spectral Line width  :  10 nm
Operating Current:  1300 mA
Operating Voltage:  9-12 Vdc
Laser Diode Cooling Mode :  Aluminum Heat Sink
Driver Cooling Mode  :  Aluminum Heat Sink
Expected Lifetime:  5000 hours
Power Supply Required:  9-12 volts DC 1.3 Amp
Applications :  CNC Cutting, Material Processing,

http://www.listingfactoryhost.com/users/kerimkale/eBayAuctions/346554dgf/images/DSCN6716_360697722_thumb.jpg
 
Short URL: http://alturl.com/fynsz 

http://www.listingfactoryhost.com/users/kerimkale/eBayAuctions/346554dgf/images/DSCN6705_865650630_thumb.jpg
 
Short URL: http://alturl.com/j4aof 

I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as an
Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn the
bean on and control the strength.

I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are recommended.
-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:
 For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
 Viesturs has.

 eBay laser with controller:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Laser-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841

That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from the
port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.

I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.

-- 
atp
The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:
 For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
 Viesturs has.

 eBay laser with controller:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Laser-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841

Almost...
Manufacturer the same, laser diode looks the same, but is rated for
700 mW, the electronics board is different.

 That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from the
 port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.

 I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
 hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.

I would be happy to do it this way.
Unfortunately there are only 2 input terminals, labeled + and -

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:36:21 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
  Is there perchance an adjustment potentiometer?  The LM317T is a
  linear regulator device and could be made adjustable so as to
  compensate for the wiring and switching loss in your controller.
 
 Nope, I see 2 resistors in series for the middle leg.
 
  I'm sorry.  I try to describe things in understandable terms and
  obviously I didn't bridge the gap very well.
 
 I think that You did pretty well, it is just thatI do not get that
 pretty well :)
 
  That very thin wire will probably need replaced with something heavier
  while maintaining flexibility for long life.  Or perhaps the LM317T
  needs turned up a few hundred millivolts.  See the sample schematic
  shown here:
  
  http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html#Overview
  
  Perhaps the maker used a fixed resistor in place of R2, the adjustable
  one? Given parts tolerances it could already be borderline low.
  Given that 20-100 millisecond response time probably won't be a show
  stopper, another thought that may be easier for you to fab on site
  would be to use your controller circuit to switch a relay.  That, and
  heavier wire might be the better method as opposed to turning the
  supply up .250 additional volts because someone may replace a future
  broken cable with an even heavier one which would let the magic smoke
  out of the laser.
 
 I looked carefully and it looks to me that there are 2 resistors in
 series, where is R1 in that scheme and that connection to GND through
 R2 - I do not see that.

Could be hidden by a via thru the board I suppose.  But see below.
 
 Ok, I think I have to explain one thing that was missed and seems to
 be misunderstood:
 I do not want to detach laser board from the laser itself - they are
 connected with ~40cm of wire and I would like to keep it that way.

My mistake, I was under the impression the psu was a separate item that 
could have been frame mounted several meters away.
 
 That thin wire is between my diy driver and the laser board.
 So I will try to figure out, how to replace the wire.

That depends.  Can, if you just short your device, burn wood?  If not, or 
only very much slower than you expected, then the wire is too small.

However, this gives me another better idea, that of putting your DIY 
switching device right at the laser, essentially doing away with the wiring 
losses, and use the existing small wire going to it for the logic signal to 
control it.

That seems like the most serviceable solution to me, quit trying to send 
the amps up and down a small wire, just send the controlling signal. I am 
assuming that the relatively small currents your DIY needs can be supplied 
by the lasers own supply, removing the need to also send your DIY a pair of 
power leads of its own.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene
We have only two things to worry about:  That things will never get
back to normal, and that they already have.

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:50:53 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:

 For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
 Viesturs has.
 
 eBay laser with controller:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Laser-
 Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item2
 a1771bee9#ht_2189wt_1080 Short URL: http://alturl.com/9t7fg
 
 Peak Wavelength  :  808 nm
 Color:  Infrared
 Visibility   :  INVISIBLE
 Diode Beam divergence:  12/100 deg.
 Emitting area:  50 x 2 آµm
 Module Output Power  :  800 mW
 Diode Output Power   :  1000 mW
 Modulation   :  TTL
 Max. Modulation Frequency:  20 KHz
 Focus Range  :  1 inch to 5 inches
 Warm Up Time :   1 Minute
 Power Stability  :  %5, 20 minutes
 Spectral Line width  :  10 nm
 Operating Current:  1300 mA
 Operating Voltage:  9-12 Vdc
 Laser Diode Cooling Mode :  Aluminum Heat Sink
 Driver Cooling Mode  :  Aluminum Heat Sink
 Expected Lifetime:  5000 hours
 Power Supply Required:  9-12 volts DC 1.3 Amp
 Applications :  CNC Cutting, Material Processing,
 
 http://www.listingfactoryhost.com/users/kerimkale/eBayAuctions/346554dgf
 /images/DSCN6716_360697722_thumb.jpg Short URL: http://alturl.com/fynsz
 
 http://www.listingfactoryhost.com/users/kerimkale/eBayAuctions/346554dgf
 /images/DSCN6705_865650630_thumb.jpg Short URL: http://alturl.com/j4aof
 
 I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as an
 Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn the
 bean on and control the strength.
 
 I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are recommended.

And I suspect you are spot on, and that we have managed to make a larger 
problem out of it than it is.

Viesters?

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:52:19 PM andy pugh did opine:

 On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
wrote:
  For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
  Viesturs has.
  
  eBay laser with controller:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Lase
  r-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841
 
 That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from the
 port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.
 
 I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
 hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.

With perhaps a piece of coax for the shielding?

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:53:39 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
  On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
wrote:
  For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
  Viesturs has.
  
  eBay laser with controller:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Las
  er-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841
 
 Almost...
 Manufacturer the same, laser diode looks the same, but is rated for
 700 mW, the electronics board is different.
 
  That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from the
  port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.
  
  I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
  hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.
 
 I would be happy to do it this way.
 Unfortunately there are only 2 input terminals, labeled + and -
 
 Viesturs
 
Link to the device?

Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:

 That depends.  Can, if you just short your device, burn wood?  If not, or
 only very much slower than you expected, then the wire is too small.

I could. Now it seems that my diy stopped working again - laser
receives ~3V DC regardless of the state of gpio output pin.

I give up trying to get it working.

 However, this gives me another better idea, that of putting your DIY
 switching device right at the laser, essentially doing away with the wiring
 losses, and use the existing small wire going to it for the logic signal to
 control it.

 That seems like the most serviceable solution to me, quit trying to send
 the amps up and down a small wire, just send the controlling signal. I am
 assuming that the relatively small currents your DIY needs can be supplied
 by the lasers own supply, removing the need to also send your DIY a pair of
 power leads of its own.

Thanks, sounds like a pretty good idea. Its only downside - I cannot
implement it on the spot at client's site, because I have to redo my
diy - it is on the same piece of pcb with 7 input optoisolators for
home, limits and e-stop.

2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
 On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:50:53 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:

 I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as an
 Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn the
 bean on and control the strength.

 I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are recommended.

 And I suspect you are spot on, and that we have managed to make a larger
 problem out of it than it is.


As I wrote - there are only 2 connection terminals for laser board,
labeled + and -

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
 On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:53:39 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
  On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com
 wrote:
  For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
  Viesturs has.
 
  eBay laser with controller:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-Las
  er-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841

 Almost...
 Manufacturer the same, laser diode looks the same, but is rated for
 700 mW, the electronics board is different.

  That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from the
  port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.
 
  I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
  hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.

 I would be happy to do it this way.
 Unfortunately there are only 2 input terminals, labeled + and -

 Viesturs

 Link to the device?

Sorry, I do not understand, what do You mean.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 02:29:30 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
  That depends.  Can, if you just short your device, burn wood?  If not,
  or only very much slower than you expected, then the wire is too
  small.
 
 I could. Now it seems that my diy stopped working again - laser
 receives ~3V DC regardless of the state of gpio output pin.
 
 I give up trying to get it working.
 
  However, this gives me another better idea, that of putting your DIY
  switching device right at the laser, essentially doing away with the
  wiring losses, and use the existing small wire going to it for the
  logic signal to control it.
  
  That seems like the most serviceable solution to me, quit trying to
  send the amps up and down a small wire, just send the controlling
  signal. I am assuming that the relatively small currents your DIY
  needs can be supplied by the lasers own supply, removing the need to
  also send your DIY a pair of power leads of its own.
 
 Thanks, sounds like a pretty good idea. Its only downside - I cannot
 implement it on the spot at client's site, because I have to redo my
 diy - it is on the same piece of pcb with 7 input optoisolators for
 home, limits and e-stop.
 
Ouch, but that could probably be tossed together in a couple of hours on a 
perf board about 2 square from the shack, hopefully where you are there is 
a similar hobby store with that stuff?

 2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
  On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:50:53 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:
  I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as
  an Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn
  the bean on and control the strength.
  
  I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are
  recommended.
  
  And I suspect you are spot on, and that we have managed to make a
  larger problem out of it than it is.
 
 As I wrote - there are only 2 connection terminals for laser board,
 labeled + and -
 
 Viesturs
 
 
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Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread gene heskett
On Friday, January 27, 2012 02:31:36 PM Viesturs Lācis did opine:

 2012/1/27 gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com:
  On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:53:39 PM Viesturs Lؤپcis did opine:
  2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
   On 27 January 2012 18:12, Kirk Wallace
   kwall...@wallacecompany.com
  
  wrote:
   For those following this thread, just a reminder of what I think
   Viesturs has.
   
   eBay laser with controller:
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-808nm-800mw-Infrared-Focusable-
   Las er-Diode-Module-Cutter-w-TTL-/180781956841
  
  Almost...
  Manufacturer the same, laser diode looks the same, but is rated for
  700 mW, the electronics board is different.
  
   That sounds like it needs 12V and a TTL enable signal direct from
   the port. I suspect that there is no need for the output driver.
   
   I would expect to be connecting 12V direct between GND and 12V and
   hooking the 5i23 up to the TTL.
  
  I would be happy to do it this way.
  Unfortunately there are only 2 input terminals, labeled + and -
  
  Viesturs
  
  Link to the device?
 
 Sorry, I do not understand, what do You mean.
 
URL to the makers web site and a brochure?

 Viesturs
 
 
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Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene
Well thaaat's okay.

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
Hello again!

I tried searching my mailbox with more than 2 years of this mailing
list in it for some servo tuning for noobs (actual keywords used
were servo tuning), but found only 1 viable thread, which contained
this link;
http://www.newport.com/servicesupport/Tutorials/default.aspx?id=152

My problem is:
I can tune servo motor to move smoothly up to ~3600 mm/min, which is
~1500 RPM for motor.
In higher speeds at one moment motor stalls and oscillates.
Where can I read, how to proceed to reach higher velocities?
I have been playing with P and D parameters, but do not see any improvement.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:49:18 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
     emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 Hello again!

 I tried searching my mailbox with more than 2 years of this mailing
 list in it for some servo tuning for noobs (actual keywords used
 were servo tuning), but found only 1 viable thread, which contained
 this link;
 http://www.newport.com/servicesupport/Tutorials/default.aspx?id=152

 My problem is:
 I can tune servo motor to move smoothly up to ~3600 mm/min, which is
 ~1500 RPM for motor.
 In higher speeds at one moment motor stalls and oscillates.
 Where can I read, how to proceed to reach higher velocities?
 I have been playing with P and D parameters, but do not see any improvement.

 Viesturs


 Whats is your servo thread period, and how many poles does the motor have?


Servo period is default 1ms.
Motors have 4 poles, motors have 2048 CPR (8192
PPR) encoders.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Peter C. Wallace

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:


Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:58:27 +0200
From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:


Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:49:18 +0200
From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
    emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

Hello again!

I tried searching my mailbox with more than 2 years of this mailing
list in it for some servo tuning for noobs (actual keywords used
were servo tuning), but found only 1 viable thread, which contained
this link;
http://www.newport.com/servicesupport/Tutorials/default.aspx?id=152

My problem is:
I can tune servo motor to move smoothly up to ~3600 mm/min, which is
~1500 RPM for motor.
In higher speeds at one moment motor stalls and oscillates.
Where can I read, how to proceed to reach higher velocities?
I have been playing with P and D parameters, but do not see any improvement.

Viesturs



Whats is your servo thread period, and how many poles does the motor have?



Servo period is default 1ms.
Motors have 4 poles, motors have 2048 CPR (8192
PPR) encoders.

Viesturs


What BLDC mode are you using?

When it fails and oscillates does the motor behave normally when stopped 
(equal torque both directions)?


If not you may somehow have lost encoder counts, this should be checked

Do you have the encoder filter on?




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Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
()_() signature to help him gain world domination.
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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 19:54, Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com wrote:

 What BLDC mode are you using?
...
 If not you may somehow have lost encoder counts, this should be checked

Try mode h and comment-out the rawcounts lines, that ought to make
it stick in Hal-sensor mode, and then it can't lose synch.

-- 
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The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:58:27 +0200

 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
    emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:

 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:49:18 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
     emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 Hello again!

 I tried searching my mailbox with more than 2 years of this mailing
 list in it for some servo tuning for noobs (actual keywords used
 were servo tuning), but found only 1 viable thread, which contained
 this link;
 http://www.newport.com/servicesupport/Tutorials/default.aspx?id=152

 My problem is:
 I can tune servo motor to move smoothly up to ~3600 mm/min, which is
 ~1500 RPM for motor.
 In higher speeds at one moment motor stalls and oscillates.
 Where can I read, how to proceed to reach higher velocities?
 I have been playing with P and D parameters, but do not see any
 improvement.

 Viesturs



 Whats is your servo thread period, and how many poles does the motor
 have?


 Servo period is default 1ms.
 Motors have 4 poles, motors have 2048 CPR (8192
 PPR) encoders.

 Viesturs


 What BLDC mode are you using?

What do You mean - what mode?
Config for bldc component is qh

 When it fails and oscillates does the motor behave normally when stopped
 (equal torque both directions)?

Yes, I hit F2 to stop it (sometimes it stops for itself within a
second or two) after I release jogging button and then after enabling
motion with F2 motor stands still and I can jog again

 Do you have the encoder filter on?

I guess that no, I do not have encoder filter, since I do not know,
what is that.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 19:54, Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com wrote:

 What BLDC mode are you using?
 ...
 If not you may somehow have lost encoder counts, this should be checked

 Try mode h and comment-out the rawcounts lines, that ought to make
 it stick in Hal-sensor mode, and then it can't lose synch.


Hmm, I used h mode, when I tried to set up bldc component to move
motors properly. How is that going to help me?
Motors move smoothly up to ~1500RPM, but my ideal target is 4000RPM.
minimum target is 3000RPM, so I would like to find out, if there is a
place to read about the strategy, how to tune servos from this point.
I tried increasing/decreasing P and D parameters, but do not see
improvement.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 20:18, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, I hit F2 to stop it (sometimes it stops for itself within a
 second or two) after I release jogging button and then after enabling
 motion with F2 motor stands still and I can jog again

That's a good sign then.

At that speed with a 2-pole motor a 1ms servo period ought to be OK,
but you should try 500uS to see if that helps.

-- 
atp
The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 20:22, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hmm, I used h mode, when I tried to set up bldc component to move
 motors properly. How is that going to help me?

Don't worry about it. If you can still jog when it settles down then
it's not losing synch.

Is FF0 set to zero now?

What's the PID output maxing out at?

-- 
atp
The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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[Emc-users] [OT] Re: Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Kent A. Reed
On 1/27/2012 2:54 PM, Peter C. Wallace wrote:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:58:27 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) 
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:49:18 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) 
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 Hello again!

 I tried searching my mailbox with more than 2 years of this mailing
 list in it for some servo tuning for noobs (actual keywords used
 were servo tuning), but found only 1 viable thread, which contained
 this link;
 http://www.newport.com/servicesupport/Tutorials/default.aspx?id=152

 My problem is:
 I can tune servo motor to move smoothly up to ~3600 mm/min, which is
 ~1500 RPM for motor.
 In higher speeds at one moment motor stalls and oscillates.
 Where can I read, how to proceed to reach higher velocities?
 I have been playing with P and D parameters, but do not see any 
 improvement.

 Viesturs


 Whats is your servo thread period, and how many poles does the motor 
 have?


 Servo period is default 1ms.
 Motors have 4 poles, motors have 2048 CPR (8192
 PPR) encoders.

 Viesturs

 What BLDC mode are you using?

 When it fails and oscillates does the motor behave normally when 
 stopped (equal torque both directions)?

 If not you may somehow have lost encoder counts, this should be checked

 Do you have the encoder filter on?


 Peter Wallace
 Mesa Electronics
Peter:

I think your system clock is off. Your replies to Viesturs' messages are 
arriving here with time stamps roughly 4 minutes before the time stamps 
on the messages you are replying to. A quick look at the message headers 
suggests the problem is at your end and not his (but I've been wrong 
before).

In the grand scheme of things this doesn't much matter but since my mail 
agents sorts incoming mail on the time stamp, I read your response 
before I see the question. It was a bit disconcerting the first time.

On the other hand, if it's a real effect, you've found a way to 
communicate faster than the speed of light and with an effect way bigger 
than the billionths of a second that the folks at CERN and Gran Sasso 
Laboratory were reporting. I smell a Nobel Prize in the offing.

Regards,
Kent


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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Peter C. Wallace
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 22:22:33 +0200
 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?
 
 2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 19:54, Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com wrote:

 What BLDC mode are you using?
 ...
 If not you may somehow have lost encoder counts, this should be checked

 Try mode h and comment-out the rawcounts lines, that ought to make
 it stick in Hal-sensor mode, and then it can't lose synch.


 Hmm, I used h mode, when I tried to set up bldc component to move
 motors properly. How is that going to help me?
 Motors move smoothly up to ~1500RPM, but my ideal target is 4000RPM.
 minimum target is 3000RPM, so I would like to find out, if there is a
 place to read about the strategy, how to tune servos from this point.
 I tried increasing/decreasing P and D parameters, but do not see
 improvement.

 Viesturs

This is not likely a tuning problem...

More likely that you have either run out of headroom (what is the motor 
voltage vs supply voltage?) or you have a commutation problem. Commutation 
problems will happen if you have encoder count errors in q, qi, or  qh mode
Of course if you have encoder count problems these need to be fixed  whatever 
commutation mode you use, but using h mode will eliminate encoder count 
problems as a suspect in you oscillation troubles.

Another detail that can cause strange behavior if you are close to the maximum 
RPM because of voltage limits, is the maximum PWM duty cycle. This should be 
limited via the PID components max_output parameter to about 95% of the PWM 
components full scale value.




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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 20:18, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, I hit F2 to stop it (sometimes it stops for itself within a
 second or two) after I release jogging button and then after enabling
 motion with F2 motor stands still and I can jog again

 That's a good sign then.

 At that speed with a 2-pole motor a 1ms servo period ought to be OK,
 but you should try 500uS to see if that helps.


Ok, I will try that first thing in the morning, I am in the dormitory
already to spend the night.
So are you telling that Emc is reaching the limit of motor's velocity,
affected by number of poles and length of servo period? What else
affects that?

2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 20:22, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hmm, I used h mode, when I tried to set up bldc component to move
 motors properly. How is that going to help me?

 Don't worry about it. If you can still jog when it settles down then
 it's not losing synch.

Ok, good to hear (read).

 Is FF0 set to zero now?

Last settings I tried:
Deadband = 0,002
P = 6
I = 0
D = 2,2
FF0 = 0
FF1 = 0
FF2 = 0
BIAS = 0

 What's the PID output maxing out at?

OUTPUT_SCALE =  166.667
OUTPUT_OFFSET = 0.0
MAX_OUTPUT =166.667

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 20:37, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 What's the PID output maxing out at?

 OUTPUT_SCALE =          166.667
 OUTPUT_OFFSET =         0.0
 MAX_OUTPUT =            166.667

I don't know what these numbers mean. But if the PWM is hitting 95%
and the motor isn't going any faster then it might be a voltage or
current problem.

If you go over 95% then the drive will start to not work properly. It
uses the PWM oscillation to create a gate voltage, and 100% isn't a
PWM, it's a steady voltage.

-- 
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The idea that there is no such thing as objective truth is, quite simply, wrong.

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:

 This is not likely a tuning problem...

Sounds encouraging :)

 More likely that you have either run out of headroom (what is the motor
 voltage vs supply voltage?) or you have a commutation problem. Commutation
 problems will happen if you have encoder count errors in q, qi, or  qh mode
 Of course if you have encoder count problems these need to be fixed  whatever
 commutation mode you use, but using h mode will eliminate encoder count
 problems as a suspect in you oscillation troubles.

 Another detail that can cause strange behavior if you are close to the maximum
 RPM because of voltage limits, is the maximum PWM duty cycle. This should be
 limited via the PID components max_output parameter to about 95% of the PWM
 components full scale value.

Damn, thanks for reminding about the voltages!
I have ~28 VDC supplied to 7i39s - that would account for supply voltage.
Motors are rated for 36 VDC. Since motors are rated at 4000 RPM, I
cannot reach them by default.
But I still should hit 75% of that, which is 3000 RPM, because I have
supplied 75% of the rated voltage, right? But now I have reached only
half of that.

Ok, is there a place I can read more about the max_output? I do not
fully understand, what should I do with output_ scale and max_output
parameters in INI file.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 20:37, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 What's the PID output maxing out at?

 OUTPUT_SCALE =          166.667
 OUTPUT_OFFSET =         0.0
 MAX_OUTPUT =            166.667

 I don't know what these numbers mean. But if the PWM is hitting 95%
 and the motor isn't going any faster then it might be a voltage or
 current problem.

Any place for reading to find that out? Manual has a little
information only about output_scale.


 If you go over 95%

How can I check that?

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread andy pugh
On 27 January 2012 20:45, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ok, is there a place I can read more about the max_output? I do not
 fully understand, what should I do with output_ scale and max_output
 parameters in INI file.

What happens if you disconnect the PID (and the motors from the
machine!) and setp bldc.0.value 0.95 ?

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
 On 27 January 2012 20:45, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ok, is there a place I can read more about the max_output? I do not
 fully understand, what should I do with output_ scale and max_output
 parameters in INI file.

 What happens if you disconnect the PID (and the motors from the
 machine!) and setp bldc.0.value 0.95 ?


I will be able to check that after ~10 hours, in the morning.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Peter C. Wallace

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:


Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 22:49:38 +0200
From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:
On 27 January 2012 20:37, Viesturs L??cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:


What's the PID output maxing out at?


OUTPUT_SCALE =  166.667
OUTPUT_OFFSET = 0.0
MAX_OUTPUT =166.667


So if you set the PID comps MAX_OUTPUT to 158 (and PWM scale is 166.67) that 
will limit maximum PWM to the desired 95%




I don't know what these numbers mean. But if the PWM is hitting 95%
and the motor isn't going any faster then it might be a voltage or
current problem.


Any place for reading to find that out? Manual has a little
information only about output_scale.



If you go over 95%


How can I check that?

Viesturs

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Mesa Electronics

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/27 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com:
 On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Viesturs L?cis wrote:

 Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 22:49:38 +0200

 From: [UTF-8] Viesturs L?cis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Reply-To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
    emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

 2012/1/27 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com:

 On 27 January 2012 20:37, Viesturs Lяяcis viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 What's the PID output maxing out at?


 OUTPUT_SCALE =          166.667
 OUTPUT_OFFSET =         0.0
 MAX_OUTPUT =            166.667


 So if you set the PID comps MAX_OUTPUT to 158 (and PWM scale is 166.67) that
 will limit maximum PWM to the desired 95%

Ok, I will try that.

BTW, can anyone explain, how to derive proper values for those 2 parameters?
What I have there is max desired velocity in machine units per second.
I do not remember, where did I get the information to do it that way,
so I would like to find out, if that is correct?

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] MESA questions

2012-01-27 Thread Andrew
2012/1/25 Peter C. Wallace p...@mesanet.com

 Both would need a new firmware files (SVST12_12_7I52S, SVST12_12_7I47)


We intend to use 7i23+7i47x2.
Where can we find SVST12_12_7I47 firmware and pinout?
Thanks!

Andrew
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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Jon Elson
Viesturs Lācis wrote:
 In my previous attempts I had:
 DEADBAND =  0.0005
 P = 90
 I = 40
 D = 1,65
 FF0 = 0
 FF1 = 1,5
 FF2 = 0
 BIAS = 0,0005

   
FF0 should always be zero on a motion axis. It creates an offset that 
varies with position.
FF1 should always be much less than P. FF2 seems like it should always 
be much
less than FF1. Too much D may cause instability.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Ed Nisley
On Fri, 2012-01-27 at 12:26 -0500, gene heskett wrote:
 The LM317T is a linear regulator device 
 and could be made adjustable so as to compensate for the wiring and
 switching loss in your controller. 

Judging from Viesturs' description in a later message:

 Nope, I see 2 resistors in series for the middle leg.

The LM317 is probably wired up as a current controller, not a voltage
controller: it's providing a fixed *current* to the laser diode, not
regulating the voltage across the wires.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:LM317_1A_ConstCurrent.svg

In that mode, the voltage drop from controller to laser doesn't make
much difference, at least within reasonable limits. What *does* matter
is the voltage supplied to the controller (which sets the compliance it
needs to regulate the laser current) and the current available from the
raw +12 V supply (which must be greater than the laser current).

Tweaking the resistors or substituting a voltage source for the laser
controller will let the magic smoke out of the laser!

The BD139 has a 1.5 A current rating, with a fairly low hFE = 40. That
says it must have 1.0 / 40 = 25 mA of base current to saturate while
carrying 1 A. More base current will be better.

The 4N25 has a current transfer ratio of 20%, which means the LED
current must be 25 / 0.20 = 125 mA. Anything less than that won't
provide enough base drive, so the transistor won't saturate, so the
laser controller won't get enough power, and the transistor will
eventually overheat and die.

However, you can't jam that much current through the 4N25's LED.

At the risk of sounding like an Olde Farte, the easiest way to get this
contraption working is a small mechanical relay: a few tens of mA in
will switch an amp of DC on the output. No voltage drops, no muss, no
fuss.

The optoisolator won't have enough current capacity for the relay, so
you will probably need the driver transistor to power the *relay* from
the digital output. But there's no need for the optoisolator in that
case.

Or, of course, I could be completely wrong...

-- 
Ed
http://softsolder.com



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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Jon Elson
Peter C. Wallace wrote:


 This is wrong, you add D to  make it more stable not I
   
This thing about add I to increase stability is in several places in the 
docs and Wiki,
and I was wondering about this.  I agree with you that it is D that 
increases stability
(up to a point).  If this is truly a typo, we need to get it corrected.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Servo tuning - wtf?

2012-01-27 Thread Kent A. Reed
On 1/27/2012 9:18 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
 Peter C. Wallace wrote:

 This is wrong, you add D to  make it more stable not I

 This thing about add I to increase stability is in several places in the
 docs and Wiki,

Jon:

I don't remember reading this when I was reviewing the V2.5 docs.

As a counterexample, looking at the HTML files under 
http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs, in section 1.2.4 Derivative Term of 
Important Integrator Concepts in the V2.4 docs (which becomes section 
2.4 of Integrator Concepts in V2.5 docs), it says

The derivative term slows the rate of change of the controller output 
and this effect is most noticeable close to the controller set point. 
Hence, derivative control is used to reduce the magnitude of the 
overshoot produced by the integral component and improve the combined 
controller-process stability.

In section 1.1.3 [Loop Tuning] Simple method of PID Theory in V2.4 
(mutatis mutandi for V2.5) it says

If the system must remain on line, one tuning method is to first set 
the I and D values to zero. Increase the P until the output of the loop 
oscillates. Then increase I until oscillation stops. Finally, increase D 
until the loop is acceptably quick to reach its reference.

I don't interpret this simple method to mean add I to increase 
stability but perhaps that just shows I don't know PID theory and practice.

 and I was wondering about this.  I agree with you that it is D that
 increases stability
 (up to a point).  If this is truly a typo, we need to get it corrected.

If you could identify the problem sections I'd be happy to help 
reconcile them.


 Jon


Regards,
Kent


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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Rafael Skodlar
On 01/27/2012 11:07 AM, Viesturs Lācis wrote:
 2012/1/27 gene heskettghesk...@wdtv.com:

 That depends.  Can, if you just short your device, burn wood?  If not, or
 only very much slower than you expected, then the wire is too small.

 I could. Now it seems that my diy stopped working again - laser
 receives ~3V DC regardless of the state of gpio output pin.

 I give up trying to get it working.

 However, this gives me another better idea, that of putting your DIY
 switching device right at the laser, essentially doing away with the wiring
 losses, and use the existing small wire going to it for the logic signal to
 control it.

 That seems like the most serviceable solution to me, quit trying to send
 the amps up and down a small wire, just send the controlling signal. I am
 assuming that the relatively small currents your DIY needs can be supplied
 by the lasers own supply, removing the need to also send your DIY a pair of
 power leads of its own.

 Thanks, sounds like a pretty good idea. Its only downside - I cannot
 implement it on the spot at client's site, because I have to redo my
 diy - it is on the same piece of pcb with 7 input optoisolators for
 home, limits and e-stop.

 2012/1/27 gene heskettghesk...@wdtv.com:
 On Friday, January 27, 2012 01:50:53 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:

 I suspect the power to the laser driver just needs to be switched as an
 Enable, with the driver's TTL input modulated by PWM/PDM to turn the
 bean on and control the strength.

 I have zero experience with lasers, so grains of salt are recommended.

 And I suspect you are spot on, and that we have managed to make a larger
 problem out of it than it is.


 As I wrote - there are only 2 connection terminals for laser board,
 labeled + and -

 Viesturs

Of course that won't work with most if not all the suggestions I've seen 
so far. If I understand it correctly, your laser already has a circuit 
to drive it at reasonable current to do it's magic.

Circuit I suggested earlier was under assumption you have a bare laser 
diode connected to it. You cannot daisy chain circuits one after another 
and expect laser to work properly.

Relays are out of question IMO because they are too slow mechanical 
devices with many other drawbacks for this application. I see no reason 
to bring in solid state relays into the picture either. You are not 
driving high voltage stuff.

You either need to modify your PCB that came with the laser diode or 
build a new circuit. Maybe you can reverse engineer that PCB and use one 
spot to inject signal from the EMC side.

This link would be a good starting point to get an idea what you are 
dealing with: http://www.rog8811.com/laserdriver.htm
Suggested circuit uses same IC regulator LM317 as you mention having in 
currently included PCB I believe.

Links that might help:
http://laserboy.org/
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/laserssl.htm#ssltoc

You are practically dealing with the same issue as power LEDs except 
that laser diode provides coherent light:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Power-LED-s---simplest-light-with-constant-current/

-- 
Rafael

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Re: [Emc-users] DIY output driver

2012-01-27 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2012/1/28 Rafael Skodlar ra...@linwin.com:

 Of course that won't work with most if not all the suggestions I've seen
 so far. If I understand it correctly, your laser already has a circuit
 to drive it at reasonable current to do it's magic.

 Circuit I suggested earlier was under assumption you have a bare laser
 diode connected to it. You cannot daisy chain circuits one after another
 and expect laser to work properly.

 Relays are out of question IMO because they are too slow mechanical
 devices with many other drawbacks for this application. I see no reason
 to bring in solid state relays into the picture either. You are not
 driving high voltage stuff.

 You either need to modify your PCB that came with the laser diode or
 build a new circuit. Maybe you can reverse engineer that PCB and use one
 spot to inject signal from the EMC side.

Ed, Kirk, Rafael, thank You!

Given my lack of skills in electronics, I think that interfering and
modifying the pcb that comes with laser is the last thing I want to
do.
Here are some pics of the laser and its pcb I took late in last night
with my phone (it was late enough that I forgot to upload them
yesterday evening):
http://picpaste.com/2012-01-27_21.54.59-QzJqS24n.jpg
http://picpaste.com/2012-01-27_21.55.16-mx4U2GiU.jpg
http://picpaste.com/2012-01-27_21.55.36-wtANcKHw.jpg
http://picpaste.com/2012-01-27_21.56.28-ySpITI8d.jpg

I think that I will try the use a relay approach, because:
1) it is simple enough for me to do it;
2) it does not require modifying existing laser's board;
3) it will be fast enough for me, because I am going to use the laser
in a a la milling fashion - move laser along the line to be burned
instead of moving it back and forth and switching it on, when
necessary, because:
a) the laser is weak, so by definition it can't burn quickly;
b) machine is heavy and relatively slow, compared to normal laser
engravers, so it would not be able to handle very powerful laser
anyway;
c) g-code generation - I have no idea, how to generate g-code for
normal laser engraving, but I know, how to do it for a la milling
style.


BTW client was happy, when he saw the first hand-burned lines in the
wood that I managed to do last night in that small moment, when the
laser was working...

Viesturs

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