Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Erik Friesen
For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with plumbing
valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?


On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 12:13 AM, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On 9/27/2013 6:29 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
  Do you think vacuum alone would pull into every nook and cranny?  I have
  looked for other people that have tried something similar, but didn't
 find
  much.  By vacuum, my idea is to in some way place the mold under vacuum,
  and fill it using atmospheric pressure, perhaps using some type of funnel
  and valve.  If you do calculations on a 4 sq in mold at my pump rating of
  10pa, it calculates to a .07 cubed volume at atmosphere of 101kpa.
 
  Whats the demold/depressurisation time for pressured polyurethane?

 It depends a lot on the resin. Fast cure ones like you're using could
 come out in a few minutes to an hour, just to be sure. Most of what I
 use is Smooth-On Crystal Clear and I leave it under pressure 24 hours. I
 also post-cure at 145F with convection heat so if not left under
 pressure long enough I've had problems with small bubbles forming.

 I've also used some of Smooth-On's faster resins like Onyx and have been
 able to take out of pressure in about 30 minutes. That one cures hard
 enough it doesn't need post curing.

 Think of using pressure like what a deep diver experiences, except for
 with the resin and silicone keeping it under pressure long enough
 ensures the gasses never get back out.

 You can speed up the cure by shining a halogen work light on the
 pressure tank or putting the tank in a very warm room. I've cast
 silicone molds under pressure in the middle of winter in a poorly heated
 shop, with a halogen lamp shining on one of my larger tanks. Most resins
 and silicones need to be at least 75F to cure properly.

 Therin lies a useful property that can be exploited some times. Chill
 the components prior to mixing to stretch out the pot life, then after
 pouring into the mold, apply heat to speed up the cure.

 However, some resins can fail to cure properly if they're not at the
 proper temperature or higher when mixed. In such a case, mix the resin
 then fill the mold in a cold room, then transfer to a warm room to get
 some more working time.

 If you have a bunch of leftover silicone after casting a mold, freeze
 the leftovers. It'll bring the cure nearly to a halt. I've frozen mixed
 silicone up to a week and still been able to use it to make molds. It
 will be thick but will still flow.

 Another trick I've used to alter curing times is mixing resins from the
 same product line with different cure times. I had to cast some large
 but thin parts. The longer cure time resin wouldn't properly set in such
 thin castings and the short cure time that would set in thin castings
 would kick too fast to be able to get the mold filled. So I mixed the
 two in a 50:50 ratio and the properties came out somewhere between,
 stretching the time long enough to be able to fill the mold and get it
 in a tank, while still generating enough heat from the chemical
 reactions to fully cure. I told Smooth-On what I did. No reply but they
 later added another resin in the Crystal Clear line with cure properties
 between the 202 and the longer cure time number. I think they've also
 altered the 202 because I can use it as-is in the molds that I couldn't
 when I was mixing the two, and even if I do heat the tanks or set them
 on the concrete in front of my shop on a sunny day, the castings still
 need post curing.


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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Erik Friesen
The current resin I use has a 50 second gel time.  Its a little like flying
rc, if it gets ahead of you you are in trouble.

I wonder if a person could make a inlet control valve with a piece of
tubing and clamp, or special clamp?  Something that would take about 15 psi
forward pressure to open the clamp.


On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 7:16 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

 For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with
 plumbing valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?


 On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 12:13 AM, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.comwrote:

 On 9/27/2013 6:29 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
  Do you think vacuum alone would pull into every nook and cranny?  I have
  looked for other people that have tried something similar, but didn't
 find
  much.  By vacuum, my idea is to in some way place the mold under vacuum,
  and fill it using atmospheric pressure, perhaps using some type of
 funnel
  and valve.  If you do calculations on a 4 sq in mold at my pump rating
 of
  10pa, it calculates to a .07 cubed volume at atmosphere of 101kpa.
 
  Whats the demold/depressurisation time for pressured polyurethane?

 It depends a lot on the resin. Fast cure ones like you're using could
 come out in a few minutes to an hour, just to be sure. Most of what I
 use is Smooth-On Crystal Clear and I leave it under pressure 24 hours. I
 also post-cure at 145F with convection heat so if not left under
 pressure long enough I've had problems with small bubbles forming.

 I've also used some of Smooth-On's faster resins like Onyx and have been
 able to take out of pressure in about 30 minutes. That one cures hard
 enough it doesn't need post curing.

 Think of using pressure like what a deep diver experiences, except for
 with the resin and silicone keeping it under pressure long enough
 ensures the gasses never get back out.

 You can speed up the cure by shining a halogen work light on the
 pressure tank or putting the tank in a very warm room. I've cast
 silicone molds under pressure in the middle of winter in a poorly heated
 shop, with a halogen lamp shining on one of my larger tanks. Most resins
 and silicones need to be at least 75F to cure properly.

 Therin lies a useful property that can be exploited some times. Chill
 the components prior to mixing to stretch out the pot life, then after
 pouring into the mold, apply heat to speed up the cure.

 However, some resins can fail to cure properly if they're not at the
 proper temperature or higher when mixed. In such a case, mix the resin
 then fill the mold in a cold room, then transfer to a warm room to get
 some more working time.

 If you have a bunch of leftover silicone after casting a mold, freeze
 the leftovers. It'll bring the cure nearly to a halt. I've frozen mixed
 silicone up to a week and still been able to use it to make molds. It
 will be thick but will still flow.

 Another trick I've used to alter curing times is mixing resins from the
 same product line with different cure times. I had to cast some large
 but thin parts. The longer cure time resin wouldn't properly set in such
 thin castings and the short cure time that would set in thin castings
 would kick too fast to be able to get the mold filled. So I mixed the
 two in a 50:50 ratio and the properties came out somewhere between,
 stretching the time long enough to be able to fill the mold and get it
 in a tank, while still generating enough heat from the chemical
 reactions to fully cure. I told Smooth-On what I did. No reply but they
 later added another resin in the Crystal Clear line with cure properties
 between the 202 and the longer cure time number. I think they've also
 altered the 202 because I can use it as-is in the molds that I couldn't
 when I was mixing the two, and even if I do heat the tanks or set them
 on the concrete in front of my shop on a sunny day, the castings still
 need post curing.


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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread Alex Joni
Richard,

sure it can. All you need is to provide some level shifting (BBB is 3,3V, 
gecko takes 5V iirc) and connect them.
Or you can use an existing cape: BeBoPr, Replicape, etc
Or you can wait a bit on a parport cape I'm currently working on.. 
(schematic mostly done, layout in the works..) Should be a couple weeks for 
a tested prototype.. I'll post updates

Regards,
Alex


-Original Message- 
From: Richard Thornton
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 12:45 PM
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko 
G540stepper driver

Hi,

I have seen a bunch of info on using BBB with capes and a lot of 3D
printing specific stuff like Replicape and BeBoPr++.

My thought was can the BBB replace the PC in LinuxCNC and drive the G540
directly?

Thanks for looking.

Cheers
Richard
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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540 stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread Charles Steinkuehler
On 9/28/2013 4:45 AM, Richard Thornton wrote:
 Hi,
 
 I have seen a bunch of info on using BBB with capes and a lot of 3D
 printing specific stuff like Replicape and BeBoPr++.
 
 My thought was can the BBB replace the PC in LinuxCNC and drive the G540
 directly?

The gecko will happily work with 3.3V signals (as will just about
anything designed to connect to a standard PC parallel port...they have
all had 3.3V signaling for ages).  So if you want, you can just hook up
some wires from the BeagleBone connectors to a DB25, maybe using a
prototype cape if you want to be fancy:

http://www.adafruit.com/products/572

-- 
Charles Steinkuehler
char...@steinkuehler.net



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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540 stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 09/28/2013 05:38 AM, Charles Steinkuehler wrote:
 On 9/28/2013 4:45 AM, Richard Thornton wrote:
 Hi,

 I have seen a bunch of info on using BBB with capes and a lot of 3D
 printing specific stuff like Replicape and BeBoPr++.

 My thought was can the BBB replace the PC in LinuxCNC and drive the G540
 directly?

 The gecko will happily work with 3.3V signals (as will just about
 anything designed to connect to a standard PC parallel port...they have
 all had 3.3V signaling for ages).  So if you want, you can just hook up
 some wires from the BeagleBone connectors to a DB25, maybe using a
 prototype cape if you want to be fancy:

 http://www.adafruit.com/products/572

The bottom line is, that for some G540 inputs one only needs to turn on 
and off the LED in a LTV846 opto-coupler.

http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/G540_upper_bottom-2.jpg
http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Lite-On%20PDFs/LTV-8x6.pdf

The forward voltage for the LTV is typically 1.2 V. there is a 200 Ohm 
resistor in series with the input which will also need to be considered. 
At 3.3 V, V=IR, I=V/R,  I=(3.3 - 1.2)/200=0.0105 A= 10.5mA. It looks 
like 5mA should be enough to drive the LED, so if the BBB output can 
drive 10mA and survive, a direct connection should work.

The charge pump signal is different.
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/G540_upper_bottom_z-1b.png

The input charges a capacitor and diode bridge which needs a lot more 
current and is more sensitive to voltage, frequency and duty. This shows 
a parallel port signal in 5 V SPP (low drive) mode, which doesn't work:
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg

Here it is in 5 V EPP (high drive) mode, which does work:
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg

This signal peaks at just over 3 Volts and takes its time getting there. 
The SPP signal peaks at 2 Volts.

The situation gets more difficult when one considers the length and type 
of cable used. Noise can put significant + and - voltages on the signal, 
so reverse voltage protection, filtering, conditioning and termination 
will need to be considered.

So direct connecting a BBB and a G540? ... It depends.



-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540 stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread andy pugh
On 28 September 2013 16:13, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:

 The charge pump signal is different.
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/G540_upper_bottom_z-1b.png

 The input charges a capacitor and diode bridge which needs a lot more
 current and is more sensitive to voltage, frequency and duty.

I have a feeling that there is an option to not use the charge pump?
(Though clearly it would be good to)

-- 
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540 stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 28 September 2013 11:24:35 Kirk Wallace did opine:

 On 09/28/2013 05:38 AM, Charles Steinkuehler wrote:
  On 9/28/2013 4:45 AM, Richard Thornton wrote:
  Hi,
  
  I have seen a bunch of info on using BBB with capes and a lot of 3D
  printing specific stuff like Replicape and BeBoPr++.
  
  My thought was can the BBB replace the PC in LinuxCNC and drive the
  G540 directly?
  
  The gecko will happily work with 3.3V signals (as will just about
  anything designed to connect to a standard PC parallel port...they
  have all had 3.3V signaling for ages).  So if you want, you can just
  hook up some wires from the BeagleBone connectors to a DB25, maybe
  using a prototype cape if you want to be fancy:
  
  http://www.adafruit.com/products/572
 
 The bottom line is, that for some G540 inputs one only needs to turn on
 and off the LED in a LTV846 opto-coupler.
 
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/G540_upper_bottom-2.jpg
 http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Lite-On%20PDFs/LTV-8x6.pdf
 
 The forward voltage for the LTV is typically 1.2 V. there is a 200 Ohm
 resistor in series with the input which will also need to be considered.
 At 3.3 V, V=IR, I=V/R,  I=(3.3 - 1.2)/200=0.0105 A= 10.5mA. It looks
 like 5mA should be enough to drive the LED, so if the BBB output can
 drive 10mA and survive, a direct connection should work.
 
 The charge pump signal is different.
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/G540_upper_bottom_z-1b.p
 ng
 
 The input charges a capacitor and diode bridge which needs a lot more
 current and is more sensitive to voltage, frequency and duty. This shows
 a parallel port signal in 5 V SPP (low drive) mode, which doesn't work:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg
 
 Here it is in 5 V EPP (high drive) mode, which does work:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg

Those 2 look identical because they are Kirk. :)
 
 This signal peaks at just over 3 Volts and takes its time getting there.
 The SPP signal peaks at 2 Volts.
 
 The situation gets more difficult when one considers the length and type
 of cable used. Noise can put significant + and - voltages on the signal,
 so reverse voltage protection, filtering, conditioning and termination
 will need to be considered.
 
 So direct connecting a BBB and a G540? ... It depends.

It should work well IF the + side of the optos are at Vcc, while the - side 
is connected to the BBB's output signal. That assumes the BBB has a TTL-
like output stage, which I do not know for a fact.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Is this feasible: BBB running LinuxCNC to Gecko G540 stepper driver

2013-09-28 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 09/28/2013 08:30 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Saturday 28 September 2013 11:24:35 Kirk Wallace did opine:

... snip
 The input charges a capacitor and diode bridge which needs a lot more
 current and is more sensitive to voltage, frequency and duty. This shows
 a parallel port signal in 5 V SPP (low drive) mode, which doesn't work:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg

 Here it is in 5 V EPP (high drive) mode, which does work:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_spp.jpg
 
  Those 2 look identical because they are Kirk. :)
 
... snip

Oops:
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/G540/g540_mb_epp.jpg



-- 
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http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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[Emc-users] Meeting minutes, 2013 September 28

2013-09-28 Thread Dave Caroline
We just finished our monthly IRC meeting.

Meeting agenda  vote results are included in this email, and on our
wiki here: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Meeting201309

Meeting log: http://meetlog.archivist.info/meeting.php?id=201309

moderator: Dave Caroline
secretary: Dave Caroline

Agenda Items

# I propose we formalize the current practice of freezing the agenda
on or around the Wednesday before the fourth Saturday; I think it is
good to avoid last-minute additions for several reasons: so people
have time to thoughtfully consider the agenda items, so they have time
to start a discussion, and so they have full knowledge allowing them
to decide whether to plan to attend. [cradek]

 Vote Yes with a reminder going out the Monday before that Wednesday
to at least the user mailing list

# I would like to propose again Michael Haberler's 'jog-while-paused'.
This is really not a nice to have but a feature that is sorely
missed.[mariusl]

 A long discussion on the way forward with people volunteering to do
parts of this, no need to vote.

NEXT MEETING: Saturday 2013-10-26 1600UTC

Dave Caroline (archivist)

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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Erik Friesen
Did a vacuum pour test.  Complete failure as far as I am concerned.  The
small amount of air introduced in the connection, as well as the small
amount of air in the mix becomes an instant mini volcano.

One option that could work for me is a double pour.  Does polyurethane
water tight seal on cold joints?


On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 7:43 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

 The current resin I use has a 50 second gel time.  Its a little like
 flying rc, if it gets ahead of you you are in trouble.

 I wonder if a person could make a inlet control valve with a piece of
 tubing and clamp, or special clamp?  Something that would take about 15 psi
 forward pressure to open the clamp.


 On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 7:16 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

 For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with
 plumbing valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?


 On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 12:13 AM, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.comwrote:

 On 9/27/2013 6:29 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
  Do you think vacuum alone would pull into every nook and cranny?  I
 have
  looked for other people that have tried something similar, but didn't
 find
  much.  By vacuum, my idea is to in some way place the mold under
 vacuum,
  and fill it using atmospheric pressure, perhaps using some type of
 funnel
  and valve.  If you do calculations on a 4 sq in mold at my pump rating
 of
  10pa, it calculates to a .07 cubed volume at atmosphere of 101kpa.
 
  Whats the demold/depressurisation time for pressured polyurethane?

 It depends a lot on the resin. Fast cure ones like you're using could
 come out in a few minutes to an hour, just to be sure. Most of what I
 use is Smooth-On Crystal Clear and I leave it under pressure 24 hours. I
 also post-cure at 145F with convection heat so if not left under
 pressure long enough I've had problems with small bubbles forming.

 I've also used some of Smooth-On's faster resins like Onyx and have been
 able to take out of pressure in about 30 minutes. That one cures hard
 enough it doesn't need post curing.

 Think of using pressure like what a deep diver experiences, except for
 with the resin and silicone keeping it under pressure long enough
 ensures the gasses never get back out.

 You can speed up the cure by shining a halogen work light on the
 pressure tank or putting the tank in a very warm room. I've cast
 silicone molds under pressure in the middle of winter in a poorly heated
 shop, with a halogen lamp shining on one of my larger tanks. Most resins
 and silicones need to be at least 75F to cure properly.

 Therin lies a useful property that can be exploited some times. Chill
 the components prior to mixing to stretch out the pot life, then after
 pouring into the mold, apply heat to speed up the cure.

 However, some resins can fail to cure properly if they're not at the
 proper temperature or higher when mixed. In such a case, mix the resin
 then fill the mold in a cold room, then transfer to a warm room to get
 some more working time.

 If you have a bunch of leftover silicone after casting a mold, freeze
 the leftovers. It'll bring the cure nearly to a halt. I've frozen mixed
 silicone up to a week and still been able to use it to make molds. It
 will be thick but will still flow.

 Another trick I've used to alter curing times is mixing resins from the
 same product line with different cure times. I had to cast some large
 but thin parts. The longer cure time resin wouldn't properly set in such
 thin castings and the short cure time that would set in thin castings
 would kick too fast to be able to get the mold filled. So I mixed the
 two in a 50:50 ratio and the properties came out somewhere between,
 stretching the time long enough to be able to fill the mold and get it
 in a tank, while still generating enough heat from the chemical
 reactions to fully cure. I told Smooth-On what I did. No reply but they
 later added another resin in the Crystal Clear line with cure properties
 between the 202 and the longer cure time number. I think they've also
 altered the 202 because I can use it as-is in the molds that I couldn't
 when I was mixing the two, and even if I do heat the tanks or set them
 on the concrete in front of my shop on a sunny day, the castings still
 need post curing.


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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 9/28/2013 5:16 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
 For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with plumbing
 valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?

That's fine if you have the space and funds for a big tank, and a good 
vacuum pump. I bought an old but excellent condition Gast rotary vane 
vacuum pump, but haven't used it in some years since for the mold making 
and casting I do pressure has worked much better.

Pulling a vacuum in a large tank takes quite a bit of time, unless you 
get a very high volume pump - and you'd best have a high volume bank 
balance to get one. ;-)

Instead of one large tank some smaller ones can be ganged together with 
a manifold. Propane tanks with the valves removed so they can be hooked 
together with as large of pipe as possible will work, but getting the 
smelly stuff out can be a problem. I tried it with one tank, with the 
insides of the valve removed and opened up some with a drill to reduce 
restriction as much as I could. The stink would draw right through the 
vacuum pump and smell up the whole shop.

To sorta on-topic this, one of the tasks I plan to put my mill to is 
making prototypes of things in metal to use as masters for RTV molds to 
make plastic castings.

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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 9/28/2013 5:43 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
 The current resin I use has a 50 second gel time.  Its a little like flying
 rc, if it gets ahead of you you are in trouble.

 I wonder if a person could make a inlet control valve with a piece of
 tubing and clamp, or special clamp?  Something that would take about 15 psi
 forward pressure to open the clamp.

With the mold in vacuum? Could work if you mix exactly the amount of 
resin to just fill the mold and can shut the valve at just the right 
time. The vacuum would pull the resin in and should fully fill the mold 
but you'd have to be careful so it wouldn't suck it all out the vents in 
the mold.

Using the ~14.5 PSI surface pressure of the atmosphere to push the resin 
in, you shouldn't need very much vacuum. Too much pressure difference 
and it might simply blow the resin through the mold. Don't want resin in 
your vacuum pump!

Experimenting with one of those cheap compressed air powered venturi 
types could be a good idea so you don't chance ruining a rotary vane pump.

I'd try a couple of ways. Just vacuuming the resin in and vacuuming it 
in followed by applying pressure.

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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 9/28/2013 1:13 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
 Did a vacuum pour test.  Complete failure as far as I am concerned.  The
 small amount of air introduced in the connection, as well as the small
 amount of air in the mix becomes an instant mini volcano.

 One option that could work for me is a double pour.  Does polyurethane
 water tight seal on cold joints?

In my experience, urethanes bond to themselves extremely well, as long 
as nothing is allowed to contaminate the surfaces you want to bond. I've 
had incomplete castings that I've topped off and the join is invisible 
- when all goes well.

Sometimes the mold doesn't fit quite exactly back onto the casting and 
resin flows over one or both sides of it. Goes in the trash. Also some 
times the join is visible, trash too. Most of what I do is clear or 
colored transparent resin for non-stressed parts so appearance is most 
important.

For your pump housing it's probably not a good idea to try salvaging an 
incomplete casting for anything but testing.

If you want to deliberately do partial castings, that's another 
can-o-resin. For example you could machine away parts of the housing and 
mill slots into the edges to get more bonding area, then cast clear into 
the cut out sections for a 'cutaway' demonstration model that can be 
used with fluid flowing through it. Just be sure to pressure test 
*before* doing a demo for people you want to buy the thing!

'Sides that, having a bi-color product ups the Oo! factor to make 
your technical prowess look even better.


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Re: [Emc-users] polyurethane resin casting

2013-09-28 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 09/28/2013 10:03 PM, Gregg Eshelman wrote:

... snip
 To sorta on-topic this, one of the tasks I plan to put my mill to is
 making prototypes of things in metal to use as masters for RTV molds to
 make plastic castings.
... snip

I may be a little biased, but this might be an option to resin molding.
http://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecomns=prodshowref=32079

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http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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