Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 27 June 2015 02:29:56 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
 Got a collet block?  Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a
 piece of 800 grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to mind.

Spindle is R-8, and I bought a full kit of collets in fractional inch, 
I'll have to see if one of them fits a 16mm screw.  If not, or I can't 
hold it tight enough, I'll see about the superglue on the pads idea, and 
an hour or so's heating of the lash adjuster nut with the hot air gun. 
800 grit I don't have, but 600 wet-r-dry I have several sheets of.

Since the head is off, I could use the spindle if I could figure a way to 
lock it solidly.  The pin Grizzy supplies as a spindle locker does NOT 
fit the pin hole for spindle locking at all well.  Way the heck too 
small a tip, and too long too.  I feel a session on the little mill, 
making a half circle spanner might be worthwhile.  Or even making a copy 
of their $90 spindle lock, I'll need it anyway.

Thanks Christopher, the idea might be just what the Doctor ordered.  I'll 
see w/o the sandpaper first, since if it slips, its the top of the 
threads that would get marred.  If theres room, it just now strikes me 
that a few wraps of alu foil might be a traction helper.

Does _anyone_ have an idea where replacement teflon seals might be 
sourced?  The one it pushed out is pretty well mangled.

Thanks all.


 N. Christopher Perry

  On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 
  Greetings all;
 
  I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may be
  my own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws on
  ebay and vanished.  Sorta.  I found a message where there were
  instructions to dl the instructions, but they are behind a login
  that he didn't supply a username or passwd for, and his phone number
  is suddenly out of service.
 
  Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix,
  AZ 85014.  From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved.
 
  Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him.
 
  Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the
  post and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it
  with the Z slider.  So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the
  balls that one must use when installing the Y screw.  But while that
  works for horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to keep the
  balls within the normal trackage in the nut, allowing then to run
  down and against the teflon seal, so when I screwed the bolt back
  in, those caught below the recycle guides, those little red plugs,
  went on down and forced the teflon seal about half out of the
  recess, and wound up dropping about a dozen balls into the post. 
  Those I have corraled with a retriever magnet, all of which went on
  thru a 2 square hole in the bottom of the post, some on the chip
  tray, but more scattered about on the floor under and behind the
  stand.  So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile of magnetised
  balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way, can only be turned
  to climb up the screw toward the top cover and thrust bearing.
 
  So, next is to back off  remove the adjuster nut at the top of the
  bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread end
  below the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be re-introduced
  to the nut below the recycle guide. At least I think thats how it
  should work.
 
  I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may
  have been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk
  on the rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into
  position and fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of
  its travel  lock it down, then insert the nut AND screw, assembled
  from the top, and using long allen wrenches, put the bolts back in. 
  A right Pain in the Ass but doable.  If I restart 2 opposing bolts
  with one of those spring clip retriever thingies, then the bolts to
  the slider can be removed, and it all pulled back to the top of the
  slot where wrench access to the bolts from the top would be
  considerably less of a problem.
 
  Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5 vice, with
  about 5/16 of hard white maple as jaw pads, and the vice snugged
  up enough to crush the maple to the bottom of the ball grooves.  And
  I still cannot move that locking nut.  Its turning in the maple in
  the vice.
 
  So I assume it has some sort of thread-locker juice in it, but the
  color doesn't ident it to me.  Faint, very faint, line of blue,
  maybe.
 
  So now I'll have to figure out a way to heat it hot enough to
  release that.  I can find about 750F with my hot air rework station
  but with the mass of that screw, being in good contact with the
  thrust bearings, and them with several ounces of 1/2 alu, it will
  take quite a while, and maybe even a box to contain the heat well
  enough.
 
  Anybody got a better idea how to grab the screw, without 

Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread Marcus Bowman

On 27 Jun 2015, at 08:55, Gene Heskett wrote:

 On Saturday 27 June 2015 02:29:56 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
 Got a collet block?  Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a
 piece of 800 grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to mind.
 
 Spindle is R-8, and I bought a full kit of collets in fractional inch, 
 I'll have to see if one of them fits a 16mm screw.  If not, or I can't 
 hold it tight enough, I'll see about the superglue on the pads idea, and 
 an hour or so's heating of the lash adjuster nut with the hot air gun. 
 800 grit I don't have, but 600 wet-r-dry I have several sheets of.
 
 Since the head is off, I could use the spindle if I could figure a way to 
 lock it solidly.  The pin Grizzy supplies as a spindle locker does NOT 
 fit the pin hole for spindle locking at all well.  Way the heck too 
 small a tip, and too long too.  I feel a session on the little mill, 
 making a half circle spanner might be worthwhile.  Or even making a copy 
 of their $90 spindle lock, I'll need it anyway.
 
 Thanks Christopher, the idea might be just what the Doctor ordered.  I'll 
 see w/o the sandpaper first, since if it slips, its the top of the 
 threads that would get marred.  If theres room, it just now strikes me 
 that a few wraps of alu foil might be a traction helper.
 
 Does _anyone_ have an idea where replacement teflon seals might be 
 sourced?  The one it pushed out is pretty well mangled.
 
 Thanks all.
 
 
 N. Christopher Perry
 
 On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 
 Greetings all;
 
 I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may be
 my own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws on
 ebay and vanished.  Sorta.  I found a message where there were
 instructions to dl the instructions, but they are behind a login
 that he didn't supply a username or passwd for, and his phone number
 is suddenly out of service.
 
 Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix,
 AZ 85014.  From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved.
 
 Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him.
 
 Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the
 post and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it
 with the Z slider.  So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the
 balls that one must use when installing the Y screw.  But while that
 works for horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to keep the
 balls within the normal trackage in the nut, allowing then to run
 down and against the teflon seal, so when I screwed the bolt back
 in, those caught below the recycle guides, those little red plugs,
 went on down and forced the teflon seal about half out of the
 recess, and wound up dropping about a dozen balls into the post. 
 Those I have corraled with a retriever magnet, all of which went on
 thru a 2 square hole in the bottom of the post, some on the chip
 tray, but more scattered about on the floor under and behind the
 stand.  So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile of magnetised
 balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way, can only be turned
 to climb up the screw toward the top cover and thrust bearing.
 
 So, next is to back off  remove the adjuster nut at the top of the
 bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread end
 below the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be re-introduced
 to the nut below the recycle guide. At least I think thats how it
 should work.
 
 I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may
 have been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk
 on the rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into
 position and fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of
 its travel  lock it down, then insert the nut AND screw, assembled
 from the top, and using long allen wrenches, put the bolts back in. 
 A right Pain in the Ass but doable.  If I restart 2 opposing bolts
 with one of those spring clip retriever thingies, then the bolts to
 the slider can be removed, and it all pulled back to the top of the
 slot where wrench access to the bolts from the top would be
 considerably less of a problem.
 
 Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5 vice, with
 about 5/16 of hard white maple as jaw pads, and the vice snugged
 up enough to crush the maple to the bottom of the ball grooves.  And
 I still cannot move that locking nut.  Its turning in the maple in
 the vice.
 
 So I assume it has some sort of thread-locker juice in it, but the
 color doesn't ident it to me.  Faint, very faint, line of blue,
 maybe.
 

Blue, or blue-green usually indicates Loctite (Henkel-Loctite now, I believe). 
It might be worth trying some of the Loctite solvents mentioned here:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/solvent-loctite-186460/
Given that the available surface area is small, the blue Loctite can be removed 
with a little heat (less than you might think) and/or solvent; see here:

Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 27 June 2015 04:21:35 Marcus Bowman wrote:
 On 27 Jun 2015, at 08:55, Gene Heskett wrote:
  On Saturday 27 June 2015 02:29:56 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
  Got a collet block?  Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a
  piece of 800 grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to
  mind.
 
  Spindle is R-8, and I bought a full kit of collets in fractional
  inch, I'll have to see if one of them fits a 16mm screw.  If not, or
  I can't hold it tight enough, I'll see about the superglue on the
  pads idea, and an hour or so's heating of the lash adjuster nut with
  the hot air gun. 800 grit I don't have, but 600 wet-r-dry I have
  several sheets of.
 
  Since the head is off, I could use the spindle if I could figure a
  way to lock it solidly.  The pin Grizzy supplies as a spindle locker
  does NOT fit the pin hole for spindle locking at all well.  Way the
  heck too small a tip, and too long too.  I feel a session on the
  little mill, making a half circle spanner might be worthwhile.  Or
  even making a copy of their $90 spindle lock, I'll need it anyway.
 
  Thanks Christopher, the idea might be just what the Doctor ordered. 
  I'll see w/o the sandpaper first, since if it slips, its the top of
  the threads that would get marred.  If theres room, it just now
  strikes me that a few wraps of alu foil might be a traction helper.
 
  Does _anyone_ have an idea where replacement teflon seals might be
  sourced?  The one it pushed out is pretty well mangled.
 
  Thanks all.
 
  N. Christopher Perry
 
  On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
  wrote:
 
  Greetings all;
 
  I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may
  be my own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws
  on ebay and vanished.  Sorta.  I found a message where there were
  instructions to dl the instructions, but they are behind a login
  that he didn't supply a username or passwd for, and his phone
  number is suddenly out of service.
 
  Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix,
  AZ 85014.  From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved.
 
  Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him.
 
  Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the
  post and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it
  with the Z slider.  So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the
  balls that one must use when installing the Y screw.  But while
  that works for horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to
  keep the balls within the normal trackage in the nut, allowing
  then to run down and against the teflon seal, so when I screwed
  the bolt back in, those caught below the recycle guides, those
  little red plugs, went on down and forced the teflon seal about
  half out of the recess, and wound up dropping about a dozen balls
  into the post. Those I have corraled with a retriever magnet, all
  of which went on thru a 2 square hole in the bottom of the post,
  some on the chip tray, but more scattered about on the floor under
  and behind the stand.  So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile
  of magnetised balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way,
  can only be turned to climb up the screw toward the top cover and
  thrust bearing.
 
  So, next is to back off  remove the adjuster nut at the top of
  the bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread
  end below the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be
  re-introduced to the nut below the recycle guide. At least I think
  thats how it should work.
 
  I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may
  have been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk
  on the rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into
  position and fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of
  its travel  lock it down, then insert the nut AND screw,
  assembled from the top, and using long allen wrenches, put the
  bolts back in. A right Pain in the Ass but doable.  If I restart 2
  opposing bolts with one of those spring clip retriever thingies,
  then the bolts to the slider can be removed, and it all pulled
  back to the top of the slot where wrench access to the bolts from
  the top would be considerably less of a problem.
 
  Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5 vice, with
  about 5/16 of hard white maple as jaw pads, and the vice
  snugged up enough to crush the maple to the bottom of the ball
  grooves.  And I still cannot move that locking nut.  Its turning
  in the maple in the vice.
 
  So I assume it has some sort of thread-locker juice in it, but the
  color doesn't ident it to me.  Faint, very faint, line of blue,
  maybe.

 Blue, or blue-green usually indicates Loctite (Henkel-Loctite now, I
 believe). It might be worth trying some of the Loctite solvents
 mentioned here:
 http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/solvent-loctite-186460/
 Given that the available surface area is 

Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread N. Christopher Perry
Got a collet block?  Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a piece of 800 
grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to mind.

N. Christopher Perry

 On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 
 Greetings all;
 
 I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may be my 
 own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws on ebay and 
 vanished.  Sorta.  I found a message where there were instructions to dl 
 the instructions, but they are behind a login that he didn't supply a 
 username or passwd for, and his phone number is suddenly out of 
 service.
 
 Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix, AZ 
 85014.  From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved.
 
 Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him.
 
 Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the post 
 and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it with the Z 
 slider.  So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the balls that one 
 must use when installing the Y screw.  But while that works for 
 horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to keep the balls within 
 the normal trackage in the nut, allowing then to run down and against 
 the teflon seal, so when I screwed the bolt back in, those caught below 
 the recycle guides, those little red plugs, went on down and forced the 
 teflon seal about half out of the recess, and wound up dropping about a 
 dozen balls into the post.  Those I have corraled with a retriever 
 magnet, all of which went on thru a 2 square hole in the bottom of the 
 post, some on the chip tray, but more scattered about on the floor under 
 and behind the stand.  So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile of 
 magnetised balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way, can only be 
 turned to climb up the screw toward the top cover and thrust bearing.
 
 So, next is to back off  remove the adjuster nut at the top of the 
 bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread end below 
 the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be re-introduced to the nut 
 below the recycle guide. At least I think thats how it should work.
 
 I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may have 
 been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk on the 
 rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into position and 
 fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of its travel  lock 
 it down, then insert the nut AND screw, assembled from the top, and 
 using long allen wrenches, put the bolts back in.  A right Pain in the 
 Ass but doable.  If I restart 2 opposing bolts with one of those spring 
 clip retriever thingies, then the bolts to the slider can be removed, 
 and it all pulled back to the top of the slot where wrench access to the 
 bolts from the top would be considerably less of a problem.
 
 Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5 vice, with about 
 5/16 of hard white maple as jaw pads, and the vice snugged up enough 
 to crush the maple to the bottom of the ball grooves.  And I still 
 cannot move that locking nut.  Its turning in the maple in the vice.
 
 So I assume it has some sort of thread-locker juice in it, but the color 
 doesn't ident it to me.  Faint, very faint, line of blue, maybe.
 
 So now I'll have to figure out a way to heat it hot enough to release 
 that.  I can find about 750F with my hot air rework station but with the 
 mass of that screw, being in good contact with the thrust bearings, and 
 them with several ounces of 1/2 alu, it will take quite a while, and 
 maybe even a box to contain the heat well enough.
 
 Anybody got a better idea how to grab the screw, without damaging it, 
 than what I've just described?  Because of the steam in a propane flame, 
 I'd druther use the rework wands dry heat.
 
 Or maybe a line of superglue at the maple/steel junction?  But that stuff 
 is hell to completely remove once set.
 
 Cheers, Gene Heskett
 -- 
 There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
 -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
 Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
 
 --
 Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with OpManager!
 OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors 
 network devices and physical  virtual servers, alerts via email  sms 
 for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download now
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 Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

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Re: [Emc-users] Increasing home speed

2015-06-27 Thread John Thornton
Yep Gene it is a multipurpose magic button and I've threatened to add it 
to my hard buttons more than once just to make it easy to clear the table.

JT

On 6/26/2015 4:44 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Friday 26 June 2015 17:04:41 John Thornton wrote:
 The error would help a lot... on my plasma machine I have a Rapid to
 Home button and after I'm done cutting and before shutting off I
 press the magic button. Homing only takes a few seconds when I fire it
 back up.

 JT
 Chuckle.  I guess thats why we pay you the big bucks, John. ;-)

 Thats downright thinking it thru.  Not to mention it probably gets the
 torch out of the way of the changing to a fresh sheet so it doesn't take
 a beating when the sheet slides not quite under it.  Sweet!


 On 6/25/2015 8:33 PM, Eric H. Johnson wrote:
 Hi all,



 I am not sure I understand why I cannot increase my home velocity
 for X and Y. I have a 12' by 20' table and have not been able to
 increase  the home velocity much above 0.25, which is tortuously
 slow (linuxcnc 2.6). Unfortunately I did not write down the exact
 error message when I was at the machine, but looking it up it seemed
 to indicate that the home sensor did not stay stable long enough to
 complete the home.



 My home sensors are micro-switches which are closed by a plate which
 first contacts the home sensor, then the end of travel limit, and
 finally the hard stop. Once contact is made, the switches never
 release until the axis reverses direction.  The home sensors are
 debounced, and I increased the debounce time from about 5ms to 10ms,
 so I am pretty sure there is not a state change once the debounce
 time is satisfied on initial contact.



 Is there something about the homing sequence I am still missing?



 Thanks,

 Eric


 http://t.sidekickopen07.com/e1t/o/5/f18dQhb0S7ks8dDMPbW2n0x6l2B9gXr
 N7sKj6v4
 LCQRN7fcnk8RJ6s6N8rBF7Rd3_yKW18Chwm1k1H6H0?si=6453247850577920pi=90
 ee8c53-8 5e5-4df5-b55c-48515242dba9
 
 -- Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with
 OpManager! OpManager is web-based network management software that
 monitors network devices and physical  virtual servers, alerts via
 email  sms for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no
 restriction. Download now
 http://ad.doubleclick.net/ddm/clk/292181274;119417398;o
 ___
 Emc-users mailing list
 Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
 --
  Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with OpManager!
 OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors
 network devices and physical  virtual servers, alerts via email  sms
 for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download
 now http://ad.doubleclick.net/ddm/clk/292181274;119417398;o
 ___
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 Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
 Cheers, Gene Heskett


--
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OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors 
network devices and physical  virtual servers, alerts via email  sms 
for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download now
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Re: [Emc-users] Increasing home speed

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 27 June 2015 07:10:42 John Thornton wrote:
 Yep Gene it is a multipurpose magic button and I've threatened to add
 it to my hard buttons more than once just to make it easy to clear the
 table.

I am surprised you haven't already John.  If there is one thing I have 
learned during my getting to be lengthy time on this list, is that 
regardless of how exotic the problem may be to one, someone else has 
seen it and fixed it already.  I suspect as a group, you folks amaze me 
far more often than my purely electronics comments do for any or all of 
you.  The combined knowledge of this group is Mensa grade or better.

The bottom line is that if the machine knows where it is, you can run it 
to an arbitray position very close to home.  At its best rapids speed, 
doing it safely, so a new bootup home operation needs only the few 
seconds to confirm it even if its at creep speeds.  At the end of the 
week, that could add an hours worth of production time to the machine if 
its a 20 foot bed model.  In a busy shop, thats pure money.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

--
Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with OpManager!
OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors 
network devices and physical  virtual servers, alerts via email  sms 
for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download now
http://ad.doubleclick.net/ddm/clk/292181274;119417398;o
___
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Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread Todd Zuercher
If and when you succeed in removing the nut.  I have had some similar problems 
re-installing a ball nut.  The provided tube just didn't provide sufficient 
pressure to get the thing started.  What ended up working in my case was to use 
a piece of rubber hose slipped over a wooden dowel (all snug fitting together 
so nothing slipped) to retain the balls while starting the nut.

- Original Message -
From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 4:55:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for 
starters.

On Saturday 27 June 2015 04:21:35 Marcus Bowman wrote:
 On 27 Jun 2015, at 08:55, Gene Heskett wrote:
  On Saturday 27 June 2015 02:29:56 N. Christopher Perry wrote:
  Got a collet block?  Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a
  piece of 800 grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to
  mind.
 
  Spindle is R-8, and I bought a full kit of collets in fractional
  inch, I'll have to see if one of them fits a 16mm screw.  If not, or
  I can't hold it tight enough, I'll see about the superglue on the
  pads idea, and an hour or so's heating of the lash adjuster nut with
  the hot air gun. 800 grit I don't have, but 600 wet-r-dry I have
  several sheets of.
 
  Since the head is off, I could use the spindle if I could figure a
  way to lock it solidly.  The pin Grizzy supplies as a spindle locker
  does NOT fit the pin hole for spindle locking at all well.  Way the
  heck too small a tip, and too long too.  I feel a session on the
  little mill, making a half circle spanner might be worthwhile.  Or
  even making a copy of their $90 spindle lock, I'll need it anyway.
 
  Thanks Christopher, the idea might be just what the Doctor ordered. 
  I'll see w/o the sandpaper first, since if it slips, its the top of
  the threads that would get marred.  If theres room, it just now
  strikes me that a few wraps of alu foil might be a traction helper.
 
  Does _anyone_ have an idea where replacement teflon seals might be
  sourced?  The one it pushed out is pretty well mangled.
 
  Thanks all.
 
  N. Christopher Perry
 
  On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
  wrote:
 
  Greetings all;
 
  I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may
  be my own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws
  on ebay and vanished.  Sorta.  I found a message where there were
  instructions to dl the instructions, but they are behind a login
  that he didn't supply a username or passwd for, and his phone
  number is suddenly out of service.
 
  Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix,
  AZ 85014.  From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved.
 
  Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him.
 
  Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the
  post and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it
  with the Z slider.  So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the
  balls that one must use when installing the Y screw.  But while
  that works for horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to
  keep the balls within the normal trackage in the nut, allowing
  then to run down and against the teflon seal, so when I screwed
  the bolt back in, those caught below the recycle guides, those
  little red plugs, went on down and forced the teflon seal about
  half out of the recess, and wound up dropping about a dozen balls
  into the post. Those I have corraled with a retriever magnet, all
  of which went on thru a 2 square hole in the bottom of the post,
  some on the chip tray, but more scattered about on the floor under
  and behind the stand.  So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile
  of magnetised balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way,
  can only be turned to climb up the screw toward the top cover and
  thrust bearing.
 
  So, next is to back off  remove the adjuster nut at the top of
  the bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread
  end below the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be
  re-introduced to the nut below the recycle guide. At least I think
  thats how it should work.
 
  I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may
  have been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk
  on the rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into
  position and fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of
  its travel  lock it down, then insert the nut AND screw,
  assembled from the top, and using long allen wrenches, put the
  bolts back in. A right Pain in the Ass but doable.  If I restart 2
  opposing bolts with one of those spring clip retriever thingies,
  then the bolts to the slider can be removed, and it all pulled
  back to the top of the slot where wrench access to the bolts from
  the top would be considerably less of a problem.
 
  Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5 vice, with
  about 5/16 of hard 

Re: [Emc-users] Increasing home speed

2015-06-27 Thread Eric H. Johnson
John,

I backed off on the acceleration and now it can home much faster. I did not 
realize that parameter affected homing so much. I will have to put acceleration 
back to where it was to generate the error.

Thanks,
Eric


On June 26, 2015 5:04:41 PM EDT, John Thornton j...@gnipsel.com wrote:
The error would help a lot... on my plasma machine I have a Rapid to 
Home button and after I'm done cutting and before shutting off I press

the magic button. Homing only takes a few seconds when I fire it back
up.

JT

On 6/25/2015 8:33 PM, Eric H. Johnson wrote:
 Hi all,

   

 I am not sure I understand why I cannot increase my home velocity for
X and
 Y. I have a 12' by 20' table and have not been able to increase  the
home
 velocity much above 0.25, which is tortuously slow (linuxcnc 2.6).
 Unfortunately I did not write down the exact error message when I was
at the
 machine, but looking it up it seemed to indicate that the home sensor
did
 not stay stable long enough to complete the home.

   

 My home sensors are micro-switches which are closed by a plate which
first
 contacts the home sensor, then the end of travel limit, and finally
the hard
 stop. Once contact is made, the switches never release until the axis
 reverses direction.  The home sensors are debounced, and I increased
the
 debounce time from about 5ms to 10ms, so I am pretty sure there is
not a
 state change once the debounce time is satisfied on initial contact.

   

 Is there something about the homing sequence I am still missing?

   

 Thanks,

 Eric

   

http://t.sidekickopen07.com/e1t/o/5/f18dQhb0S7ks8dDMPbW2n0x6l2B9gXrN7sKj6v4

LCQRN7fcnk8RJ6s6N8rBF7Rd3_yKW18Chwm1k1H6H0?si=6453247850577920pi=90ee8c53-8
 5e5-4df5-b55c-48515242dba9

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Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters.

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 27 June 2015 10:52:39 Todd Zuercher wrote:
 If and when you succeed in removing the nut.  I have had some similar
 problems re-installing a ball nut.  The provided tube just didn't
 provide sufficient pressure to get the thing started.  What ended up
 working in my case was to use a piece of rubber hose slipped over a
 wooden dowel (all snug fitting together so nothing slipped) to retain
 the balls while starting the nut.

I don't want to remove the ball nut completely.  Its confusing as the 
stuck nut is the lacknut above the thrust bearings.  If I can get that 
off, and the screw to where I can clamp in vertically, I will unscrew it 
to extract the balls above the recycle guide, then unscrew it enough 
that I can re-introduce the balls, either into the groove at the end of 
the screw but below the plasic guide working them around to make room 
for the next ball, wash rinse  repeat till I am out of balls, at which 
point I should be able to see balls coming back in the recycle guide.  
If not, there are balls on the floor I haven't found yet.

But first I'll rig a coil to demagnetise them by the time honored method 
of exciting the coil with good old 60hz, and gradually, slowly withdraw 
a pill bottle with the balls in it from the core of the coil.  Then I 
will stir in some alky and rinse several times until clean.  And do the 
same demag to the 4 curved nose suture clamps I'll be handling the 
individual balls with.  A glass test tube would be handy for that but I 
don't hardly have some more of those so I am stuck with the 3oz pill 
bottle I buy by the grocery sack for mixing wipe on wood finish.

Then I can reassemble it into the thrust bearings, and re-install this 
currently frozen in place nut, with some red thread-locker.  And then 
install it following the youtube movie showing what I should have done 
in the first place.

I went back to the link David gave me and its to an ebay login which has 
been defunct since sometime in 2011.  But when I use the email addy as 
the key to have them send a passwd reset, I can follow that email link 
30 seconds later, and iceweasel says it is an expired link in bright red 
text and takes me back to the regular login screen. Trying to setup a 
new account, the instant ebay sees the email addy is an existing one, I 
get a refusal to create.  Chicken V Egg.  And actually finding a phone 
number for a human at ebay cannot be done.

So f--k ebay, I just goto paypal  pay it that way.  But that account 
lockout means I can't ask the seller a question or anything else, so it 
is a PIMA, and now, if I can't fix this, will probably cost me another 
$150 or so for another screw, this time a 20mm5.

If anyone has a phone number for ebay that would get me to a human if I 
stand on the 0 long enough, I need a copy of it please.

Thanks.  I haven't been out yet this morning, I don't like swimming up 
the hill to the shop, where my hot air rework station is ATM.  We got 
around 1.5 of rain in the last 8 hours or so.  And likely have some in 
the basement too. :(  My sump pump helps, dry's it up a lot faster, but 
is not a total stopper.  Sigh...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 06/27/2015 02:49 PM, Tom Easterday wrote:
 I tried all combinations of STEP_SCALE, MIN_LIMIT, and MAX_LIMIT
 using
the .axisrc hack to display a back lathe. There is one config where
everything works EXCEPT that the up arrow moves the carriage down and
down arrow moves the carriage up - see 4)  below. So, I if I can
find the trick to remap the arrow keys I might have this working. I
don’t see the keys being messed with in the .axisrc code below. Does
anyone know what I would enter to reverse the meaning of the arrow keys
for just the X axis (up/down keys)? Or, barring that, is there some
other parameter that I have overlooked that will get me the behavior
shown here: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?BackToolLathe
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?BackToolLathe ?


 I have this in .axisrc:
 if lathe:
   bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
   def set_view_y(event=None):
   widgets.view_z.configure(relief=link)

It looks like bind_axis() above does something with key bindings:
...
 def bind_axis(a, b, d):
 root_window.bind(KeyPress-%s % a, kp_wrap(lambda e: jog_on(d, 
 -get_jog_speed(d)), KeyPress))
 root_window.bind(KeyPress-%s % b, kp_wrap(lambda e: jog_on(d, 
 get_jog_speed(d)), KeyPress))
 root_window.bind(Shift-KeyPress-%s % a, lambda e: jog_on(d, 
 -get_max_jog_speed(d)))
 root_window.bind(Shift-KeyPress-%s % b, lambda e: jog_on(d, 
 get_max_jog_speed(d)))
 root_window.bind(KeyRelease-%s % a, lambda e: jog_off(d))
 root_window.bind(KeyRelease-%s % b, lambda e: jog_off(d))
...

You might try changing
bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
to
bind_axis(Up, Down, 0)

-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Tom Easterday
Check that, doing this doesn’t seem to have any effect that I can see.  The 
tools still appear as back tools but the arrow keys are still mapped 
incorrectly.
-Tom

 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Tom Easterday tom-...@bgp.nu wrote:
 
 
 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:13 PM, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
 wrote:
 You might try changing
 bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
 to
 bind_axis(Up, Down, 0)
 
 
 That seems to put the display back in normal (not back tool) mode, but the X 
 arrow keys are still backwards…
 -Tom
 


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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Drew Rogge
Hey Tom,

I'm not sure I have everything correct on my EMCO 120 but I can send you my 
config files if it would help.

Drew

On 6/27/15 3:48 PM, Tom Easterday wrote:
 Check that, doing this doesn’t seem to have any effect that I can see.  The 
 tools still appear as back tools but the arrow keys are still mapped 
 incorrectly.
 -Tom

 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Tom Easterday tom-...@bgp.nu wrote:


 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:13 PM, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
 wrote:
 You might try changing
 bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
 to
 bind_axis(Up, Down, 0)

 That seems to put the display back in normal (not back tool) mode, but the X 
 arrow keys are still backwards…
 -Tom



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Re: [Emc-users] Next problem, there is always one of those, no?

2015-06-27 Thread rick
How about 602-248-8508. That's what I found looking on the Web. 


Rick 


 Original Message 
Subject: [Emc-users] Next problem, there is always one of those, no?
From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
Date: Sat, June 27, 2015 4:22 pm
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net

Now it appears the Z posts top plate, carrying the motor and screw, is 
miss-made.  Except its not, and I am now convinced its the nut mount 
bracket.

When the nuts mounting tab is drawn up, the screw is on a really severe 
bind.  On checking measurements, the OEM top plates hole for the thrust 
bearings and screw is exactly centered on the plate in BOTH directions.

However, the new top plate has all this moved nominally 5mm forward, and 
it appears the nuts mounting bracket will need to be removed, and shaved 
by about that much in order to place the screw actually running 
vertically in the post.  Remaking the top plate won't do as that will 
wreck the zerk sticking out of the back of it.  I suspect the bolt was 
move forward in the first place just to make running room for the zerk 
fitting.

With the top bolts loose, and drawn as high as it can go with the nut 
bracket bolts also loose, the front edge of the plate is sitting solid 
on the post, the back edge of the top plate is lifted close to 2mm!

After the fight with the balls, and 5 did not go back in as I couldn't 
find room for them as the tracks were full minus perhaps one ball.  So I 
re-assembled that, runs nice by gravity alone.

But this is a bummer.  So I need to get in touch with David Clements.  
Anyone have a phone number for ebay?

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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[Emc-users] Next problem, there is always one of those, no?

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
Now it appears the Z posts top plate, carrying the motor and screw, is 
miss-made.  Except its not, and I am now convinced its the nut mount 
bracket.

When the nuts mounting tab is drawn up, the screw is on a really severe 
bind.  On checking measurements, the OEM top plates hole for the thrust 
bearings and screw is exactly centered on the plate in BOTH directions.

However, the new top plate has all this moved nominally 5mm forward, and 
it appears the nuts mounting bracket will need to be removed, and shaved 
by about that much in order to place the screw actually running 
vertically in the post.  Remaking the top plate won't do as that will 
wreck the zerk sticking out of the back of it.  I suspect the bolt was 
move forward in the first place just to make running room for the zerk 
fitting.

With the top bolts loose, and drawn as high as it can go with the nut 
bracket bolts also loose, the front edge of the plate is sitting solid 
on the post, the back edge of the top plate is lifted close to 2mm!

After the fight with the balls, and 5 did not go back in as I couldn't 
find room for them as the tracks were full minus perhaps one ball.  So I 
re-assembled that, runs nice by gravity alone.

But this is a bummer.  So I need to get in touch with David Clements.  
Anyone have a phone number for ebay?

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] Next problem, there is always one of those, no?

2015-06-27 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 27 June 2015 20:25:29 r...@superiorroll.com wrote:
 How about 602-248-8508. That's what I found looking on the Web.

I did find a different 866 number that got me bounced from dept to dept, 
spent about 2 hours, but the only resolution was to setup another guest 
account at a different email address.  Zero progress on solving the 
original, since 2011 problem.

However I did manage to send the seller a msg.  About an hour  a half 
ago.  No reply yet.

 Rick


  Original Message 
 Subject: [Emc-users] Next problem, there is always one of those, no?
 From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
 Date: Sat, June 27, 2015 4:22 pm
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net

 Now it appears the Z posts top plate, carrying the motor and screw, is
 miss-made.  Except its not, and I am now convinced its the nut mount
 bracket.

 When the nuts mounting tab is drawn up, the screw is on a really
 severe bind.  On checking measurements, the OEM top plates hole for
 the thrust bearings and screw is exactly centered on the plate in BOTH
 directions.

 However, the new top plate has all this moved nominally 5mm forward,
 and it appears the nuts mounting bracket will need to be removed, and
 shaved by about that much in order to place the screw actually running
 vertically in the post.  Remaking the top plate won't do as that will
 wreck the zerk sticking out of the back of it.  I suspect the bolt was
 move forward in the first place just to make running room for the zerk
 fitting.

 With the top bolts loose, and drawn as high as it can go with the nut
 bracket bolts also loose, the front edge of the plate is sitting solid
 on the post, the back edge of the top plate is lifted close to 2mm!

 After the fight with the balls, and 5 did not go back in as I couldn't
 find room for them as the tracks were full minus perhaps one ball.  So
 I re-assembled that, runs nice by gravity alone.

 But this is a bummer.  So I need to get in touch with David Clements.
 Anyone have a phone number for ebay?

 Cheers, Gene Heskett

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

--
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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Tom Easterday

 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:13 PM, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:
 You might try changing
 bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
 to
 bind_axis(Up, Down, 0)
 

That seems to put the display back in normal (not back tool) mode, but the X 
arrow keys are still backwards…
-Tom


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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Tom Easterday
I tried all combinations of STEP_SCALE, MIN_LIMIT, and MAX_LIMIT using the 
.axisrc hack to display a back lathe.  There is one config where everything 
works EXCEPT that the up arrow moves the carriage down and down arrow moves the 
carriage up  - see 4)  below.  So, I if I can find the trick to remap the 
arrow keys I might have this working.  I don’t see the keys being messed with 
in the .axisrc code below.  Does anyone know what I would enter to reverse the 
meaning of the arrow keys for just the X axis (up/down keys)?  Or, barring 
that, is there some other parameter that I have overlooked that will get me the 
behavior shown here: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?BackToolLathe 
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?BackToolLathe ?


I have this in .axisrc:
if lathe:
 bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
 def set_view_y(event=None):
widgets.view_z.configure(relief=link)
widgets.view_z2.configure(relief=link)
widgets.view_x.configure(relief=link)
widgets.view_y.configure(relief=sunken)
widgets.view_p.configure(relief=link)
vars.view_type.set(4)
o.reset()
glRotatef(90, 1, 0, 0)
glRotatef(90, 0, 1, 0)
if o.canon:
mid = [(a+b)/2 for a, b in zip(o.canon.max_extents, 
o.canon.min_extents)]
glTranslatef(-mid[0], -mid[1], -mid[2])
size = [(a-b) for a, b in zip(o.canon.max_extents, 
o.canon.min_extents)]
o.set_eyepoint_from_extents(size[0], size[2])
else:
o.set_eyepoint(5.)
o.perspective = False
o.lat = -90
o.lon = 0
o.tkRedraw()
  
TclCommands.set_view_y = commands.set_view_y = set_view_y
root_window.bind(v, commands.set_view_y)
root_window.after_idle(commands.set_view_y)

---
If I have:  
   MIN_LIMIT= - 2.1
   MAX_LIMIT=0.001
Then,
If I change the sign of step_scale:

“+” causes: 
1) up arrow to move down, down arrow to move up  (bad)
2) motor down is more negative on dro, motor up is more positive (good)
3) turret moves from home position zero to -2.1 as it should (good)
4) * see note above

“-“ causes
1) up arrow moves up, down arrow moves down (good)
2) motor up is more negative, motor down is more positive (bad)
3) turret won’t move down, but will move up and hit hard stop (bad)
---
If I have:  
   MIN_LIMIT= 2.1
   MAX_LIMIT=0.001
Then,
If I change the sign of step_scale:

“+” causes: 
1) Up arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past min soft 
limit”, Down arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past max soft limit”

“-“ causes
1) Up arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past min soft 
limit”, Down arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past max soft limit”
---
If I have:  
   MIN_LIMIT= 0.001
   MAX_LIMIT= 2.1
Then,
If I change the sign of step_scale:

“+” causes: 
1) up arrow to move down, down arrow to move up  (bad)
2) motor down is more negative on dro, motor up is more positive (good)
3) turret won’t move down, but will move up and hit hard stop (bad)

“-“ causes
1) up arrow moves up, down arrow moves down (good)
2) motor up is more negative, motor down is more positive (bad)
3) turret moves from home position zero down to 2.1 as it should but 
wrong sign (bad)
---
If I have:  
   MIN_LIMIT= 0.001
   MAX_LIMIT=  - 2.1
Then,
If I change the sign of step_scale:

“+” causes: 
1) Up arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past min soft 
limit”, Down arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past max soft limit”

“-“ causes
1) Up arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past min soft 
limit”, Down arrow causes error: “Can’t jog joint 0 further past max soft limit”
———

-Tom


———

 On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:53 PM, Tom Easterday tom-...@bgp.nu wrote:
 
 
 On Jun 26, 2015, at 10:33 PM, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
 wrote:
 
 I think the up arrow and positive X motion values should move the cross 
 slide in a positive direction. For back or rear tool lathes it is common 
 for the positive direction to be away from the operator position (with 
 the spindle to the left). You should be able to set up the motion part 
 fairly easily using the sense (+/-) of the scale value.
 
 Agreed, and I can set the scale such that +X is up.  Check.
 
 Once the hardware motion is set up, the plotter screen can be addressed 
 and will need the .axisrc patch or some other software solution applied 
 to Gremlin. I suspect if the .axisrc patch doesn't move the virtual tool 
 up in a top view, there is something wrong with the patch installation 
 or maybe it isn't compatible with newer versions of LinuxCNC.
 
 The soft limits are based on the machine zero location which are set by 
 homing. Since your home is to the upper right, your 

Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Tom Easterday
BTW, where did you find that “def bind_axis” thing?  I was trying to find what 
the code meant.  

I found a forum post where someone claims that you can change the key mapping 
(see below).  In following those instructions I added this to my .axisrc file 
but it didn’t help (I also tried changing the sign in front of get_jog_speed in 
case I had it on the wrong one but that didn’t work either...

root_window.bind(“Up, lambda e: jog_on(0, -get_jog_speed(30)))
root_window.bind(“Down, lambda e: jog_on(0, get_jog_speed(0)))
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-Up, lambda e: jog_off(0))
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-Downt, lambda e: jog_off(0))

I got “Up and “Down by running the xev thing where I get a line that looks 
like:
state 0X10, keycode 111 (keysym 0xff52, Up), same_screen Yes,
and
state 0X10, keycode 116 (keysym 0xff54, Down), same_screen Yes,
when I hit the up and down arrow keys respectively

-Tom

===

AXIS doesn't pay attention to jog keys with modifier keys pressed
because this had some bad interactions with using the numeric keypad as
digits in MDI mode.

You can put magic incantations in the file ~/.axisrc that customize the
jog keys and also get rid of this behavior of ignoring the key if a
modifier key is pressed.

Here is an example which changes the keys that jog the active axis, and
the keys that jog the A axis:

# -- cut here
# Bind ; and ' to jog active axis
root_window.bind(semicolon, commands.jog_minus)
root_window.bind(apostrophe, commands.jog_plus)
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-semicolon, commands.jog_stop)
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-apostrophe, commands.jog_stop)

# Bind ( and ) to jog axis 3 (0=X, 1=Y, 2=Z, 3=A, 4=B, ...)
root_window.bind(parenleft, lambda e: jog_on(3, -get_jog_speed(3)))
root_window.bind(parenright, lambda e: jog_on(3, get_jog_speed(3)))
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-parenleft, lambda e: jog_off(3))
root_window.bind(KeyRelease-parenright, lambda e: jog_off(3))
# -- cut here

To edit your ~/.axisrc file, open a terminal window (Applications  Accessories 

Terminal). Then type gedit .axisrc. Paste the lines above into the file,
then click save, then close the application.

The next time you run emc, the settings in the .axisrc file will take effect.

To edit it again, just do the same thing: gedit .axisrc in the
terminal.

If you want to use different keys, here's how to figure out what to use instead
of parenleft and so on: In the terminal, type xev. A new window
will pop up. Click on it, but keep an eye on the terminal window. When
you press a key, it will print several lines of information on the
terminal. The one that matters is this one:
state 0x0, keycode 34 (keysym 0x5b, bracketleft), same_screen YES,
^^^
that keysym string is the one to put in your .axisrc file.

Jeff”
===


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Re: [Emc-users] Back tool lathe movement question (was lathe tool display bug in Axis preview on the developers list)

2015-06-27 Thread Tom Easterday
Would be good to take a look
Thanks,
-Tom

 On Jun 27, 2015, at 7:12 PM, Drew Rogge d...@dasrogges.com wrote:
 
 Hey Tom,
 
 I'm not sure I have everything correct on my EMCO 120 but I can send you my 
 config files if it would help.
 
 Drew
 
 On 6/27/15 3:48 PM, Tom Easterday wrote:
 Check that, doing this doesn’t seem to have any effect that I can see.  The 
 tools still appear as back tools but the arrow keys are still mapped 
 incorrectly.
 -Tom
 
 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Tom Easterday tom-...@bgp.nu wrote:
 
 
 On Jun 27, 2015, at 6:13 PM, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
 wrote:
 You might try changing
 bind_axis(Down, Up, 0)
 to
 bind_axis(Up, Down, 0)
 
 That seems to put the display back in normal (not back tool) mode, but the 
 X arrow keys are still backwards…
 -Tom
 
 
 
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