Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

3D printers do not love a wobbly base, such as a saggy folding plastic table 
with styrofoam on top.
On the other hand, a solid slab with some dense foam below, atop a rigid 
support, works well. Dampens higher frequency vibrations while not allowing 
things to jerk around. Or fix it very rigidly in place so it can't move at all.

https://hackaday.com/2020/05/20/bricking-your-3d-printer-in-a-good-way/

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 11:45:59 PM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:  
Noisewise, its sitting on the top layer of shipping foam from its box, on 
a saggy molded plastic folding table and I can't hear it except an 
occasional squeak from the motors over the houses central air. Very 
quiet.

The "Learning Curve" is leaning a wee bit.

Thanks Dave

Cheers, Gene Heskett  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 01:32:50 Bruce Layne wrote:

> 3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED
>
> I print on borosilicate glass.  I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
> first layer adhesion.  The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
> apply.  I use a clean dry borosilicate glass plate.  Apply the glue
> when the plate is room temperature.  Press down with 1-2 pounds of
> force making contact with the entire flat face of the glue stick and
> move the glue stick one inch per second to produce a thin and nearly
> transparent layer of glue.  You don't want gloppy thick glue.  Overlap
> the glue stick slightly for complete coverage.  Apply the glue
> immediately before printing.  The glue stick works well when printing
> with ABS or PLA. Here are my settings:
>
> PLA
> Nozzle Temperature:  215C
> Bed Temperature:  80C for the first layer and then 50C for the other
> layers (50C for all layers works well too)
>
> ABS
> Nozzle Temperature:  230C
> Bed Temperature:  110C
>
> If you use hairspray as a first layer adhesive, remove the glass sheet
> before spraying it.  I see YouTube videos where people fog the inside
> of their 3D printers with hairspray that'll gum up whatever precision
> linear motion components their printer uses.
>
> In addition to proper adhesive, a level bed at the correct height is
> also a necessity for that critical first layer adhesion.  I designed
> and printed some oversized knurled thumb wheels to replace the tiny M3
> wingnuts that the printer manufacturer supplied for bed leveling.  I
> used nylon thread locking M3 nuts as inserts into my thumb wheels to
> help the bed stay level.
>
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4383435
>
> If you want to really dial in the bed leveling, do the regular bed
> leveling with a thin shim, then print a 30mm square that's .2mm thick
> (one layer) over each bed leveling nut.  If you see the plastic
> smearing, the bed is too high.  Stop the print to avoid clogging the
> nozzle and lower the bed.  If the squares print but when peeled from
> the bed they're composed of individual strands, the bed is too low and
> needs to be raised slightly.  When the bed is level at the correct
> height, each of the sample squares will print as a solid plastic
> film.  Slicers have software settings for first layer printing
> parameters.  I prefer to leave these as default.  If you fix a bad bed
> level with slicer settings, the problem will return with a different
> slicer profile.
>
> It's also necessary to easily remove the parts after printing.  This
> isn't only a matter of convenience.  People attack their printed parts
> with a sharp scraper and try to pry them off the bed.  Many people
> have gouged themselves with a sharp scraper blade.  Using excessive
> force to pull the parts off the bed results in at best a ruined bed
> level.  Who applies that kind of force to delicate precision motion
> components?  For PLA parts, I dribble some water around the perimeter
> of the part and it dissolves the glue, wicking under the part and
> floating it off the print bed in a few minutes.  ABS parts are even
> easier.  ABS is printed at a higher temperature and shrinks more when
> it cools.  ABS parts pop off the glass bed when it cools.  It often
> sounds like the glass has cracked when the ABS pops free a section at
> a time.  If you use any form of violence to remove your printed parts,
> you're doing it wrong.
>
> I find it easier to make dimensionally correct parts with PLA.  ABS
> shrinkage isn't linear.  It depends on part geometry, infill, etc.  If
> I want accurate ABS parts I'll adjust the design to get the dimensions
> I want.
>
> It's counter intuitive but filament deposition 3D printed parts with
> 100% infill are less structural.  There is no internal compliance so
> the solid part has internal stress and is likely to fail by layer
> separation.

That sounds like a heated enclosure might be worthwhile, keeping it warm 
enough to stress relieve?

> 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong 
> too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts I'll
> increase the number of outer layers.

I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
>
> I recently bought an MSLA resin printer to complement my FDM
> printers.  With a structural resin such as Siraya Blu, the resin
> printer would make some VERY strong and dimensionally accurate parts,
> such as timing belt pulleys.  The biggest disadvantage is the
> relatively small build volume, but I've been making some very nice
> parts that are comparable to injection molded parts.  Even with low
> cost commodity resin, the solid parts from the MSLA printer are very
> strong.
>
How does that compare to PLA for the expendables $?

Thanks Bruce, stay well.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law resp

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 00:18:05 Lawrence Glaister wrote:

> Hi Gene,
> One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been
> missed: The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC
> and the printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like
> a serial port device to the PC.
> Using  a program such as repetier-host (https://www.repetier.com/) and
> the USB connected printer will allow you direct control of the printer
> such as jogging, heater controls etc. The repetier host also lets you
> load a gcode file produced by your slicer and to stream the gcode to
> the printer over the USB serial line while giving you a 3D progress
> plot similar to axis. You dont need to use a raspi and octoprint
> although that works well if your development computer is not within
> USB cable distance of your printer.
> Lots of ways to do things. With using the serial connection, you dont
> need to worry about using the sdcard, although I have cursed a few
> times when I moved my chair in the middle of a long print job and
> pulled the USB cable out!.
> The SD card is handy if you set up a room full of printers in
> production mode and not bother with computer connections for each
> printer.
>
> cheers
> Lawrence
>
I have a 10 meter boosted usb cable, but it doesn't end in that plug 
style, so I'd have to get another hub and a otg adapter cable. But this 
cable is only usb-2.  Would it work with a hub and adapter?

Thanks Lawrence
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 21:05:42 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

> apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux
> unlike the old distribution specific packages.

I hadn't come in contact with such a critter yet, so that was new to me. 
I guess they figured on me having 32GB to play in with this new board in 
my main box. ;-) Side disadvantage though, the buffer containing its 
operating profile is in the image, and not accessible to the user as a 
different default setup.  I'd a lot druther have seen that as an actual 
file.  Its also a pita to have to make the output file owned by root 
before I can copy it to the 8G card for transport to the printer. 
Otherwise even a sudo session of mc can't copy it cuz I own the gcode, 
somebody's paranoia strikes again.  Grr.

Thanks Greg, stay well now.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Bruce Layne]

3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED

I print on borosilicate glass.  I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
first layer adhesion.  The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
apply.  I use a clean dry borosilicate glass plate.  Apply the glue when
the plate is room temperature.  Press down with 1-2 pounds of force
making contact with the entire flat face of the glue stick and move the
glue stick one inch per second to produce a thin and nearly transparent
layer of glue.  You don't want gloppy thick glue.  Overlap the glue
stick slightly for complete coverage.  Apply the glue immediately before
printing.  The glue stick works well when printing with ABS or PLA. 
Here are my settings:

PLA
Nozzle Temperature:  215C
Bed Temperature:  80C for the first layer and then 50C for the other
layers (50C for all layers works well too)

ABS
Nozzle Temperature:  230C
Bed Temperature:  110C

If you use hairspray as a first layer adhesive, remove the glass sheet
before spraying it.  I see YouTube videos where people fog the inside of
their 3D printers with hairspray that'll gum up whatever precision
linear motion components their printer uses.

In addition to proper adhesive, a level bed at the correct height is
also a necessity for that critical first layer adhesion.  I designed and
printed some oversized knurled thumb wheels to replace the tiny M3
wingnuts that the printer manufacturer supplied for bed leveling.  I
used nylon thread locking M3 nuts as inserts into my thumb wheels to
help the bed stay level.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4383435

If you want to really dial in the bed leveling, do the regular bed
leveling with a thin shim, then print a 30mm square that's .2mm thick
(one layer) over each bed leveling nut.  If you see the plastic
smearing, the bed is too high.  Stop the print to avoid clogging the
nozzle and lower the bed.  If the squares print but when peeled from the
bed they're composed of individual strands, the bed is too low and needs
to be raised slightly.  When the bed is level at the correct height,
each of the sample squares will print as a solid plastic film.  Slicers
have software settings for first layer printing parameters.  I prefer to
leave these as default.  If you fix a bad bed level with slicer
settings, the problem will return with a different slicer profile.

It's also necessary to easily remove the parts after printing.  This
isn't only a matter of convenience.  People attack their printed parts
with a sharp scraper and try to pry them off the bed.  Many people have
gouged themselves with a sharp scraper blade.  Using excessive force to
pull the parts off the bed results in at best a ruined bed level.  Who
applies that kind of force to delicate precision motion components?  For
PLA parts, I dribble some water around the perimeter of the part and it
dissolves the glue, wicking under the part and floating it off the print
bed in a few minutes.  ABS parts are even easier.  ABS is printed at a
higher temperature and shrinks more when it cools.  ABS parts pop off
the glass bed when it cools.  It often sounds like the glass has cracked
when the ABS pops free a section at a time.  If you use any form of
violence to remove your printed parts, you're doing it wrong.

I find it easier to make dimensionally correct parts with PLA.  ABS
shrinkage isn't linear.  It depends on part geometry, infill, etc.  If I
want accurate ABS parts I'll adjust the design to get the dimensions I want.

It's counter intuitive but filament deposition 3D printed parts with
100% infill are less structural.  There is no internal compliance so the
solid part has internal stress and is likely to fail by layer
separation.  50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts I'll
increase the number of outer layers.

I recently bought an MSLA resin printer to complement my FDM printers. 
With a structural resin such as Siraya Blu, the resin printer would make
some VERY strong and dimensionally accurate parts, such as timing belt
pulleys.  The biggest disadvantage is the relatively small build volume,
but I've been making some very nice parts that are comparable to
injection molded parts.  Even with low cost commodity resin, the solid
parts from the MSLA printer are very strong.




___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 20:30:42 Dave Matthews wrote:

> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change.   You might try
> > > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid
> > > pattern I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness.   Slowing the
> > > speed to 30mm/sec works some times
> >
> > That last was so disappointing that I now have a 12 tooth gear, with
> > a hub 12mm high, printing at 30mm and 100% infill.  That of course
> > disclosed that I wasn't anywhere near close enough to the bed for
> > adhesion, so I raised the rear of it about a turn of the wheels. 
> > Then it started sticking.  But there so little spring left to lift
> > the bed that I'm going to modify the z switch to lower it another
> > 1/8 ", which will compress the springs and make them far more
> > repeatable.
>
> I found that cleaning the glass with alcohol and then giving it a
> spray of aquanet hairspray helped adhesion a lot.  I usually had to
> let the glass cool completely to get the parts off.

This doesn't have a glass bed. Its sheet metal with a replaceable sheet 
of heavy textured plastic, like a really thick layer of stick-on shelf 
paper for a build surface.  And each roll of plastic line has a new 
sheet of it in the box, I presume for replacement when it becomes 
damaged by the putty knife supplied to help break it loose. But the z 
home switch installs too high, which in turn raises the bed to the point 
theres little spring tension left, so  bed adjustments are not being 
made as precisely as they could be, no spring left to raise the bed. 
Lowering the switch 2 or 3mm will make a huge diff in the repeatablity 
by compressing the springs that much so they can lift the bed when the 
wheel is adjusted.

With a 100% infill, and slowed to a 30mm feed, its still in the hub 
section at 5h:49m and 41% on the progress bar. But its also looking a 
lot better. The first one, at 10 XL teeth, is downright ugly. At a 20% 
default infill, pretty rough and fragile teeth. This hub at 40mm 
diameter, should make a good measure of circularity, but I should 
probably make another with a 4mm grub screw. 3mm looks too small for an 
8mm shaft. Might even try a 5mm screw.

The screws left to mount the roll of line bracket are about 1 thread too 
long, so they are biteing into the bottom of the groove, and preventing 
the spool bracket from being held vertical, so I'll either find some 
washers or grind them a tad shorter at some point.

Noisewise, its sitting on the top layer of shipping foam from its box, on 
a saggy molded plastic folding table and I can't hear it except an 
occasional squeak from the motors over the houses central air. Very 
quiet.

The "Learning Curve" is leaning a wee bit.

Thanks Dave

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

Slow down the speed of the head a bit. Or increase the extrusion a bit. May 
need a little of both. What was your bed prep? I find that scrubbing glue stick 
on the bed then wiping with a wet paper towel to leave an even film behind 
works pretty good for PLA, and when the bed cools the print pops free.

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 3:57:07 PM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote: 
I'm about 90% done with a 10 tooth XL, and not at all impressed by the 
actual tooth profile as it has lots of voids.  Supposed to have a top 
flange, but its not gotten there yet.  The bottom was supposed to be 
about 10mm thick so the captured nut would have lots of meat around it, 
but its not sitting flat on the bed, came loose in the first mm and the 
hub section is way thin, guessing 6mm is all.  Cuda had a profile for an 
ender 3 pro, but this isn't showing me its optimum. Done.  Looks like an 
XL belt will fit, the flange looks usable.  Had to dig out the nut 
pocket as it had the first layer laydown across it, but I've no clue 
where I might find a nut that small. Even the base hub is semi 
transparent like the PLA feed was too slow to fill 100%, I can hold it 
up in front of the monitor, shade it from the overhead lights and see 
flashes of light coming thru between the strings in the nominally 6mm 
thick base hub. I wouldn't call that more than 25% filled.  And the 
teeth are edgy enough to affect the service life of the belt.

So, redo it for a 10mm thick hub, and turn up the extruder feed to get 
better fill?  Or reduce the xy feed rate, giving the pla a better chance 
to fill? Which stands the best chance to getting something usable on the 
next pass?  Then I need to make a bigger one, 28 or 32 teeth. To serve 
as the Z drive on the Sheldon, first match the current tooth count just 
to see if a 3NM motor is froggy enough.. Mainly because I have spare 
belts for the existing rig.  What I have obtained is a nema 34 to nema 
23 adapter, and that won't change the belts tooth count since the motor 
shaft won't move laterally.

Stay safe and well & thanks Chris.

Gene
  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Lawrence Glaister]

Hi Gene,
One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been missed:
The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC and the 
printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like a serial 
port device to the PC.
Using  a program such as repetier-host (https://www.repetier.com/) and 
the USB connected printer will allow you direct control of the printer 
such as jogging, heater controls etc. The repetier host also lets you 
load a gcode file produced by your slicer and to stream the gcode to the 
printer over the USB serial line while giving you a 3D progress plot 
similar to axis. You dont need to use a raspi and octoprint although 
that works well if your development computer is not within USB cable 
distance of your printer.
Lots of ways to do things. With using the serial connection, you dont 
need to worry about using the sdcard, although I have cursed a few times 
when I moved my chair in the middle of a long print job and pulled the 
USB cable out!.
The SD card is handy if you set up a room full of printers in production 
mode and not bother with computer connections for each printer.


cheers
Lawrence


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Ralph Stirling]

(yes, apologies for the highjack)

Your experience with the Dimension is valuable.  We had
our FDM-200mc since 2008, and have a shelf unit full of
genuine Stratasys filament and trays.  We reuse the trays.
When I get one system running again, preferably with
Insight rather than Catalyst, I would like to put some
new open source electronics and sw in the other.

Thanks again!
-- Ralph

From: Thaddeus Waldner [thadw...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:24 PM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

CAUTION: This email originated from outside the Walla Walla University email 
system.


I suppose I cannot help much if it’s dead. Mine was mostly alive; I did need to 
replace the power driver for the model motor but that’s it. The Hardware is 
very good. It’s a well-insulated heated enclosure. I don’t know what the 
stepper drivers do but it’s something fancy because it runs very quietly. For a 
while I didn’t understand why they would use DC motors on the extruders but 
then I realized that their entire build head weighs about 1/2 of what it would 
with NEMA17 steppers. This will translate to less vibrations under high 
acceleration.

So, with yours being dead, maybe the best option is to tear out the electronics 
and install a RAMPS board or something similar?  This was my plan before I got 
it to work and I found a couple of Youtube hits when searching for that. Of 
course you would need to come up with control for the DC motors + encoders 
setup. Or you could replace the build head with something more conventional. Or 
you could run it with LinuxCNC :).

The controller runs on SE Linux.

Otherwise I did three main things to make the old machine usable.

1) get a cartridge writer to reset the filament cartridges. A google search 
will bring up several different solutions that run on either Arduino or a 
Raspberry Pi. The cartridges have a one-wire chip and someone made a bunch of 
libraries to read/write and decipher the bits.

Stratasys provides filament in 1KG cartridges for about $250 each. Now maybe 
they have a higher quality product and I think they basically invented or at 
least did some major developments in the FDM process, but I can’t afford that 
stuff, so I buy Hatchbox, load it into the Stratasys cartridges, and reset the 
chip. I still use Stratasys water soluble support at $250/KG because it is so 
good and I need so little of it. It won’t print PLA but it does print 
polycarbonate when you bump the temperature up a bit. Polycarbonate prints are 
impressive.

2. Install Insight 10.6 and hack it to work with Dimension Elite printers. You 
basically need to copy a bunch of files to make it work. The original app that 
the lower-end Stratasys printers shipped with has about 3 different settings 
that you can adjust, whereas Insight is a powerful slicer that competes with 
the likes of Cura.

3. Install a glass plate. The original Stratasys solution is to use a $10 
disposable plastic build tray and then first build a flat platform on the 
uneven plastic tray, to eliminate bed alignment issues. This might be OK for a 
high end prototyping shop where the print needs to “just work and hang the 
cost" but with a $10 build plate plus about $2-$3 worth of support material 
before the build even starts, it can quickly become expensive. I bought a 
steel-backed borosilicate one from MatterHacker—one that was designed to fit 
some or another magnetic mount but was otherwise the perfect size. Don’t try 
regular glass; it will crack in under a week. Don’t try borosilicate glass 
without the metal back. It will last longer but inevitably break too. Get the 
steel-backed one. I installed this plate by printing little hooks that engage 
in the same way as the plastic build trays do and gluing these to the steel 
back. I then leveled it using a micrometer on the build head.

Finally , you need to print the first layer with support because the printer 
refuses to use model first. So what I do is draw a tiny dot of support on the 
first layer.

Sorry for hijacking your tread, Gene.



> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Ralph Stirling  
> wrote:
>
> Thaddeus -
>
> I'm very interested in hearing more about your old Stratasys.
> I've got two old Stratasys machines in a lab.  One is a dead
> FDM-200mc, and the other is a virtually identical Dimension
> Elite I got at auction, presumably working.  It was dead to,
> and I'm trying to make one functioning machine out of the
> two.  I've been thinking the FDM-200mc carcass would make
> a good conversion project, but would be very interested to
> hear about your machine.
>
> -- Ralph
> 
> From: Thaddeus Waldner [thadw...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:55 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
>
> I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in 

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[John Dammeyer]

My glass plate is clipped onto the aluminium plate under which is the heater 
PCB.  Under that I inserted a black insulating blanket used to shield the 
joists while soldering copper pipes.  I found that by insulating the bottom of 
the moving bed that more of the heat is retained and what i reported by the 
temperature sensor matched the heat measured on the glass plate.

I use Bon Ami cleanser to clean the plate of the microscopic thick plastic 
residue and oily finger grease  and that is often enough.  And if not I add a 
thin film of hair spray.

You also have to look at the engineering of the part and how it will shrink 
upwards and lift off the plate.  Sometimes just adding extra pads that you cut 
off later helps hold things down.

John


> -Original Message-
> From: Dave Matthews [mailto:n36...@gmail.com]
> Sent: June-02-20 5:31 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
> 
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >
> > > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change.   You might try
> > > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> > > I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness.   Slowing the speed to
> > > 30mm/sec works some times
> > >
> > That last was so disappointing that I now have a 12 tooth gear, with a
> > hub 12mm high, printing at 30mm and 100% infill.  That of course
> > disclosed that I wasn't anywhere near close enough to the bed for
> > adhesion, so I raised the rear of it about a turn of the wheels.  Then
> > it started sticking.  But there so little spring left to lift the bed
> > that I'm going to modify the z switch to lower it another 1/8 ", which
> > will compress the springs and make them far more repeatable.
> >
> 
> I found that cleaning the glass with alcohol and then giving it a spray of
> aquanet hairspray helped adhesion a lot.  I usually had to let the glass
> cool completely to get the parts off.
> 
> Dave
> 
> >
> 
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users



___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Thaddeus Waldner]

I suppose I cannot help much if it’s dead. Mine was mostly alive; I did need to 
replace the power driver for the model motor but that’s it. The Hardware is 
very good. It’s a well-insulated heated enclosure. I don’t know what the 
stepper drivers do but it’s something fancy because it runs very quietly. For a 
while I didn’t understand why they would use DC motors on the extruders but 
then I realized that their entire build head weighs about 1/2 of what it would 
with NEMA17 steppers. This will translate to less vibrations under high 
acceleration. 

So, with yours being dead, maybe the best option is to tear out the electronics 
and install a RAMPS board or something similar?  This was my plan before I got 
it to work and I found a couple of Youtube hits when searching for that. Of 
course you would need to come up with control for the DC motors + encoders 
setup. Or you could replace the build head with something more conventional. Or 
you could run it with LinuxCNC :). 

The controller runs on SE Linux.

Otherwise I did three main things to make the old machine usable.

1) get a cartridge writer to reset the filament cartridges. A google search 
will bring up several different solutions that run on either Arduino or a 
Raspberry Pi. The cartridges have a one-wire chip and someone made a bunch of 
libraries to read/write and decipher the bits.

Stratasys provides filament in 1KG cartridges for about $250 each. Now maybe 
they have a higher quality product and I think they basically invented or at 
least did some major developments in the FDM process, but I can’t afford that 
stuff, so I buy Hatchbox, load it into the Stratasys cartridges, and reset the 
chip. I still use Stratasys water soluble support at $250/KG because it is so 
good and I need so little of it. It won’t print PLA but it does print 
polycarbonate when you bump the temperature up a bit. Polycarbonate prints are 
impressive.

2. Install Insight 10.6 and hack it to work with Dimension Elite printers. You 
basically need to copy a bunch of files to make it work. The original app that 
the lower-end Stratasys printers shipped with has about 3 different settings 
that you can adjust, whereas Insight is a powerful slicer that competes with 
the likes of Cura.

3. Install a glass plate. The original Stratasys solution is to use a $10 
disposable plastic build tray and then first build a flat platform on the 
uneven plastic tray, to eliminate bed alignment issues. This might be OK for a 
high end prototyping shop where the print needs to “just work and hang the 
cost" but with a $10 build plate plus about $2-$3 worth of support material 
before the build even starts, it can quickly become expensive. I bought a 
steel-backed borosilicate one from MatterHacker—one that was designed to fit 
some or another magnetic mount but was otherwise the perfect size. Don’t try 
regular glass; it will crack in under a week. Don’t try borosilicate glass 
without the metal back. It will last longer but inevitably break too. Get the 
steel-backed one. I installed this plate by printing little hooks that engage 
in the same way as the plastic build trays do and gluing these to the steel 
back. I then leveled it using a micrometer on the build head. 

Finally , you need to print the first layer with support because the printer 
refuses to use model first. So what I do is draw a tiny dot of support on the 
first layer.

Sorry for hijacking your tread, Gene.



> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Ralph Stirling  
> wrote:
> 
> Thaddeus -
> 
> I'm very interested in hearing more about your old Stratasys.
> I've got two old Stratasys machines in a lab.  One is a dead
> FDM-200mc, and the other is a virtually identical Dimension
> Elite I got at auction, presumably working.  It was dead to,
> and I'm trying to make one functioning machine out of the
> two.  I've been thinking the FDM-200mc carcass would make
> a good conversion project, but would be very interested to 
> hear about your machine.
> 
> -- Ralph
> 
> From: Thaddeus Waldner [thadw...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:55 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
> 
> I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in 
> order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track 
> needs to be  slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A good rule 
> of thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times the nozzle 
> diameter and no less than 1.5 times the nozzle diameter.
> 
> My experience might not be universal, since I’m using an old Stratasys with a 
> heated build envelope and print mostly ABS. AND I can’t change out the nozzle.
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Chris Albertson  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
>> They came out just fine.
>> 
>> The final profile of the pulley tooth is

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux unlike the old 
distribution specific packages.

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 10:40:25 AM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:  
 
 On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:

> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
> >
> > No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> > language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from
> > ever being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times
> > already.
>
> When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
> Linux, 64 bit
>
> https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
>
Ok, I'll bite, what the heck is an apimage?  Better yet, what do I do 
with it on linux?  Debian 9.8 TBE, all up to date.

Thanks Dave.  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Ralph Stirling]

Thaddeus -

I'm very interested in hearing more about your old Stratasys.
I've got two old Stratasys machines in a lab.  One is a dead
FDM-200mc, and the other is a virtually identical Dimension
Elite I got at auction, presumably working.  It was dead to,
and I'm trying to make one functioning machine out of the
two.  I've been thinking the FDM-200mc carcass would make
a good conversion project, but would be very interested to 
hear about your machine.

-- Ralph

From: Thaddeus Waldner [thadw...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:55 PM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in 
order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track 
needs to be  slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A good rule of 
thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times the nozzle 
diameter and no less than 1.5 times the nozzle diameter.

My experience might not be universal, since I’m using an old Stratasys with a 
heated build envelope and print mostly ABS. AND I can’t change out the nozzle.

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Chris Albertson  wrote:
>
> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
>  They came out just fine.
>
> The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
> nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My pulley
> fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting factor.On
> my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause the greatest error.
>
> Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm diameter
> end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside radius.  Same
> with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can make at best a 0.2
> radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm radius.  But the
> printer steps are that size and introduce a larger error than the nozzle.
> In any case what you really care about is error in motion transfer between
> the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny radius error on an outside corner
> does not change how the belt sits in the pulley.
>
> There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
> cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
>
> Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
> software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough the
> slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
> measurements good enough.
>
> When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
> largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent error
> down.
>
> I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses ground
> steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything else is the
> same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by 9mm wide GT3
> profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make the flanges wider
> as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges that came to a point.  I
> made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm center bore. Odd that I
> could print the tooth profile just fine but not the flanges.
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:26 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
>> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
>>
>>> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
>>> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
>>> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
>>> nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
>>> usual learning curve.
>>> Karl
>>>
>> Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I have
>> the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought
>> to be done by dinner time.
>>
>> I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing pulleys
>> though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its
>> doing now.
>>
>> Thanks Karl.
>>
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>> --
>> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>> - Louis D. Brandeis
>> Genes Web page 
>> 
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Flists.sourceforge.net%2Flists%2Flistinfo%2Femc-users&data=02%7C01%7Cralph.stirling%40wallawal

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Dave Matthews]

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change.   You might try
> > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> > I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness.   Slowing the speed to
> > 30mm/sec works some times
> >
> That last was so disappointing that I now have a 12 tooth gear, with a
> hub 12mm high, printing at 30mm and 100% infill.  That of course
> disclosed that I wasn't anywhere near close enough to the bed for
> adhesion, so I raised the rear of it about a turn of the wheels.  Then
> it started sticking.  But there so little spring left to lift the bed
> that I'm going to modify the z switch to lower it another 1/8 ", which
> will compress the springs and make them far more repeatable.
>

I found that cleaning the glass with alcohol and then giving it a spray of
aquanet hairspray helped adhesion a lot.  I usually had to let the glass
cool completely to get the parts off.

Dave

>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Cura has about 200 settings that you can change.   You might try
> printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern 
> I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness.   Slowing the speed to
> 30mm/sec works some times
>
That last was so disappointing that I now have a 12 tooth gear, with a 
hub 12mm high, printing at 30mm and 100% infill.  That of course 
disclosed that I wasn't anywhere near close enough to the bed for 
adhesion, so I raised the rear of it about a turn of the wheels.  Then 
it started sticking.  But there so little spring left to lift the bed 
that I'm going to modify the z switch to lower it another 1/8 ", which 
will compress the springs and make them far more repeatable.

> There are so many things to get right it will take a long time.  
> Everyone goes through the same learning curve.Then test the parts
> and see how they fail and learn how to design for plastic.,  Hint, The
> strength is in the skin, not the core and use plenty of big fillets.

Or in the case of hubs, more diameter and a much higher percentage of 
infill.

> Look at Cura's "marketplace" and find the plug-in that gives help or
> explanations for each setting.   Then a box pops up with some info
> when you point as say "alternate walls"

On other item I didn't yet diddle is z step, I see its .12mm but every 
reference is for .10mm with a .4mm nozzle.  That will effect infill 
density too I expect.

So we'll waste an once of plastic and see how this one works.  I can't go 
much finer as the gcode grows rather exponentially, its now 90% of that 
8GB card they sent.  So as I've 3 brand new 64G cards here, and I see a 
max of 32GB mentioned, I'm wondering what a 64G card will do to it.  But 
cards are cheap at even Wallies as long as its not a SanDisk.  They are 
cheap too, but the limited life makes them very expensive.

> "support" is going to be needed for the upper flange.  But you need
> support parameters that allow it to be removable but still do a good
> job.
>
> You might use a full 1Kg spool of plastic learning.  I look at my old
> parts and some are not very good.

Yes, this is all new to me, and I expect there will be a cost.

Thanks Chris. Stay well now.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Thaddeus Waldner]

Measure your filament at several different spots with calipers and make sure 
that the “filiment size” setting In the slicer matches your measurement exactly.

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 16:37:08 Chris Albertson wrote:
> 
>> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm
>> nozzle. They came out just fine.
>> 
>> The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
>> nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My
>> pulley fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting
>> factor.On my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause
>> the greatest error.
>> 
>> Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm
>> diameter end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside
>> radius.  Same with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can
>> make at best a 0.2 radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm
>> radius.  But the printer steps are that size and introduce a larger
>> error than the nozzle. In any case what you really care about is error
>> in motion transfer between the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny
>> radius error on an outside corner does not change how the belt sits in
>> the pulley.
>> 
>> There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
>> cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
>> 
>> Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
>> software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough
>> the slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
>> measurements good enough.
>> 
>> When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
>> largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent
>> error down.
>> 
>> I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses
>> ground steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything
>> else is the same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by
>> 9mm wide GT3 profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make
>> the flanges wider as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges
>> that came to a point.  I made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm
>> center bore. Odd that I could print the tooth profile just fine
>> but not the flanges.
>> 
> I'm about 90% done with a 10 tooth XL, and not at all impressed by the 
> actual tooth profile as it has lots of voids.  Supposed to have a top 
> flange, but its not gotten there yet.  The bottom was supposed to be 
> about 10mm thick so the captured nut would have lots of meat around it, 
> but its not sitting flat on the bed, came loose in the first mm and the 
> hub section is way thin, guessing 6mm is all.  Cuda had a profile for an 
> ender 3 pro, but this isn't showing me its optimum. Done.  Looks like an 
> XL belt will fit, the flange looks usable.  Had to dig out the nut 
> pocket as it had the first layer laydown across it, but I've no clue 
> where I might find a nut that small. Even the base hub is semi 
> transparent like the PLA feed was too slow to fill 100%, I can hold it 
> up in front of the monitor, shade it from the overhead lights and see 
> flashes of light coming thru between the strings in the nominally 6mm 
> thick base hub. I wouldn't call that more than 25% filled.  And the 
> teeth are edgy enough to affect the service life of the belt.
> 
> So, redo it for a 10mm thick hub, and turn up the extruder feed to get 
> better fill?  Or reduce the xy feed rate, giving the pla a better chance 
> to fill? Which stands the best chance to getting something usable on the 
> next pass?  Then I need to make a bigger one, 28 or 32 teeth. To serve 
> as the Z drive on the Sheldon, first match the current tooth count just 
> to see if a 3NM motor is froggy enough.. Mainly because I have spare 
> belts for the existing rig.  What I have obtained is a nema 34 to nema 
> 23 adapter, and that won't change the belts tooth count since the motor 
> shaft won't move laterally.
> 
> Stay safe and well & thanks Chris.
> 
> Gene
> 
> 
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Thaddeus Waldner]

First, It bears repeating that the printer I’m using is Not a “normal” one. 
Stratasys Dinension Elite, can’t print pla because it burns it up while loading 
and clogs the nozzle with carbon, works best to print ABS with hot end temp at 
275C, runs enclosure temperature at 75C, and uses a proprietary Stratasys 
slicer. 
The non-interchangeable nozzle is about 0.2mm. Raster width options are from 
0.35mm to 0.95mm. Layer height has 2 options: .17mm or .25mm. 

So yes, layer height on this printer is always less than line width. Maybe it 
works due to the hotter-than-normal hot end temp?

It’s a big, old, one-trick pony but it does that one trick really well; 
consistently print dimensionally accurate ABS parts. 



> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:58 PM, Chris Albertson  wrote:
> 
> I don't think "squashed" is the word.  That would mean the line width is 2X
> wider.  The way it works is a 0.4mm nozzle flies maybe 0.2 or 0.1 mm
> over the surface and the gape is filled with hot plastic that is metered
> out at exactly the same speed the nozzle flies.   It should not print wider
> then the nozzle width.  But I think it does a tiny bit.
> 
> This is one reason not to use 0.2mm nozzles, the layer thickness would have
> to be 0.1 or less and then the line width is only 1/2 as wider.   It would
> take days to make a print.
> 
>> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:58 PM Thaddeus Waldner  wrote:
>> 
>> I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that
>> in order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed
>> track needs to be  slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A
>> good rule of thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times
>> the nozzle diameter and no less than 1.5 times the nozzle diameter.
>> 
>> My experience might not be universal, since I’m using an old Stratasys
>> with a heated build envelope and print mostly ABS. AND I can’t change out
>> the nozzle.
>> 
>>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Chris Albertson 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm
>> nozzle.
>>> They came out just fine.
>>> 
>>> The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
>>> nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My
>> pulley
>>> fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting factor.
>> On
>>> my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause the greatest error.
>>> 
>>> Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm
>> diameter
>>> end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside radius.  Same
>>> with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can make at best a
>> 0.2
>>> radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm radius.  But the
>>> printer steps are that size and introduce a larger error than the nozzle.
>>> In any case what you really care about is error in motion transfer
>> between
>>> the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny radius error on an outside
>> corner
>>> does not change how the belt sits in the pulley.
>>> 
>>> There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
>>> cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
>>> 
>>> Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
>>> software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough the
>>> slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
>>> measurements good enough.
>>> 
>>> When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
>>> largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent error
>>> down.
>>> 
>>> I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses ground
>>> steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything else is
>> the
>>> same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by 9mm wide GT3
>>> profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make the flanges
>> wider
>>> as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges that came to a point.
>> I
>>> made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm center bore. Odd that I
>>> could print the tooth profile just fine but not the flanges.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:26 AM Gene Heskett 
>> wrote:
>>> 
 On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
 
> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
> usual learning curve.
> Karl
> 
 Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I
>> have
 the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought
 to be done by dinner time.
 
 I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing
>> pulleys
 though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its
 doing n

Re: [Emc-users] quick video of making some drone parts on the cnc mill

[Leonardo Marsaglia]

>
> I am pretty blessed here in new zealand.  there is a cnc lathe on the other
> side of the shed that I will get going soon also.
>

That's a place I hope I can visit soon. From what I've seen and read of New
Zealand, it looks like a paradise to live. Sadly I can't say the same thing
about where I live (Argentina) but surely we have plenty of good people,
but sometimes it's not enough.



> and I can see myself finding a big flat bed cnc router with a dead
> controller for a couple of thousand and fixing it maybe in the next couple
> of years.
>
> then maybe I could buy a 2kw laser cutting head and run a laser cutter
> also:)
>
> we will see how it all works out.  but working from home on cncs is heaps
> of fun.  and it is amazing how good linuxcnc is!  it has ran perfect for
> ages.  I am starting to just trust the backplot now and walking away
> knowing that it will be fine.
>
> I am just finishing those parts as I write this.
>

That sounds really great. I hope you can upload some progress of those
machines soon.

I hope we can start the retrofitting of a camshaft grinder in the next
weeks. We already have one working but just for positioning. This one is a
cylindrical grinder that will be used to grind the cam profiles but without
a master, leaving all the lobe shape processing to LCNC. We also have a
Mazak lathe that we just finished and an induction hardening machine all
working with LCNC. So far, I have nothing but joy and thankfulness for such
a piece of software and community.


El mar., 2 jun. 2020 a las 20:29, andrew beck ()
escribió:

> thanks leonardo
>
> I am pretty blessed here in new zealand.  there is a cnc lathe on the other
> side of the shed that I will get going soon also.
>
> and I can see myself finding a big flat bed cnc router with a dead
> controller for a couple of thousand and fixing it maybe in the next couple
> of years.
>
> then maybe I could buy a 2kw laser cutting head and run a laser cutter
> also:)
>
> we will see how it all works out.  but working from home on cncs is heaps
> of fun.  and it is amazing how good linuxcnc is!  it has ran perfect for
> ages.  I am starting to just trust the backplot now and walking away
> knowing that it will be fine.
>
> I am just finishing those parts as I write this.
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 11:20 AM Leonardo Marsaglia 
> wrote:
>
> > I envy you for having such a baby at the shop.
> >
> > Really nice!
> >
> > Thanks for sharing.
> >
> > El mar., 2 jun. 2020 20:13, andrew beck 
> > escribió:
> >
> > > Hey guys
> > >
> > > just wanted to share this quick video with everyone.
> > >
> > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGmx2C9cuM
> > >
> > > you have all helped me so much it has made the journey very enjoyable.
> > >
> > > I still have lots of stuff to get sorted but I am definitely making
> parts
> > > now.
> > >
> > > I hooked up a mpg pendant a couple of days ago and it is awesome.
> funny
> > > how easy it was after all the mucking around learning how to do it lol
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > > ___
> > > Emc-users mailing list
> > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> > >
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] quick video of making some drone parts on the cnc mill

[andrew beck]

thanks leonardo

I am pretty blessed here in new zealand.  there is a cnc lathe on the other
side of the shed that I will get going soon also.

and I can see myself finding a big flat bed cnc router with a dead
controller for a couple of thousand and fixing it maybe in the next couple
of years.

then maybe I could buy a 2kw laser cutting head and run a laser cutter
also:)

we will see how it all works out.  but working from home on cncs is heaps
of fun.  and it is amazing how good linuxcnc is!  it has ran perfect for
ages.  I am starting to just trust the backplot now and walking away
knowing that it will be fine.

I am just finishing those parts as I write this.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 11:20 AM Leonardo Marsaglia 
wrote:

> I envy you for having such a baby at the shop.
>
> Really nice!
>
> Thanks for sharing.
>
> El mar., 2 jun. 2020 20:13, andrew beck 
> escribió:
>
> > Hey guys
> >
> > just wanted to share this quick video with everyone.
> >
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGmx2C9cuM
> >
> > you have all helped me so much it has made the journey very enjoyable.
> >
> > I still have lots of stuff to get sorted but I am definitely making parts
> > now.
> >
> > I hooked up a mpg pendant a couple of days ago and it is awesome.  funny
> > how easy it was after all the mucking around learning how to do it lol
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] quick video of making some drone parts on the cnc mill

[Leonardo Marsaglia]

I envy you for having such a baby at the shop.

Really nice!

Thanks for sharing.

El mar., 2 jun. 2020 20:13, andrew beck  escribió:

> Hey guys
>
> just wanted to share this quick video with everyone.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGmx2C9cuM
>
> you have all helped me so much it has made the journey very enjoyable.
>
> I still have lots of stuff to get sorted but I am definitely making parts
> now.
>
> I hooked up a mpg pendant a couple of days ago and it is awesome.  funny
> how easy it was after all the mucking around learning how to do it lol
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

[Emc-users] quick video of making some drone parts on the cnc mill

[andrew beck]

Hey guys

just wanted to share this quick video with everyone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoGmx2C9cuM

you have all helped me so much it has made the journey very enjoyable.

I still have lots of stuff to get sorted but I am definitely making parts
now.

I hooked up a mpg pendant a couple of days ago and it is awesome.  funny
how easy it was after all the mucking around learning how to do it lol

regards

Andrew

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

Cura has about 200 settings that you can change.   You might try printing
on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern  I print small
gears with 1.6 wall thickness.   Slowing the speed to 30mm/sec works some
times

There are so many things to get right it will take a long time.   Everyone
goes through the same learning curve.Then test the parts and see how
they fail and learn how to design for plastic.,  Hint, The strength is in
the skin, not the core and use plenty of big fillets.

Look at Cura's "marketplace" and find the plug-in that gives help or
explanations for each setting.   Then a box pops up with some info when you
point as say "alternate walls"

"support" is going to be needed for the upper flange.  But you need support
parameters that allow it to be removable but still do a good job.

You might use a full 1Kg spool of plastic learning.  I look at my old parts
and some are not very good.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 2:57 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 16:37:08 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm
> > nozzle. They came out just fine.
> >
> > The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
> > nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My
> > pulley fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting
> > factor.On my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause
> > the greatest error.
> >
> > Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm
> > diameter end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside
> > radius.  Same with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can
> > make at best a 0.2 radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm
> > radius.  But the printer steps are that size and introduce a larger
> > error than the nozzle. In any case what you really care about is error
> > in motion transfer between the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny
> > radius error on an outside corner does not change how the belt sits in
> > the pulley.
> >
> > There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
> > cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
> >
> > Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
> > software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough
> > the slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
> > measurements good enough.
> >
> > When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
> > largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent
> > error down.
> >
> > I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses
> > ground steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything
> > else is the same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by
> > 9mm wide GT3 profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make
> > the flanges wider as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges
> > that came to a point.  I made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm
> > center bore. Odd that I could print the tooth profile just fine
> > but not the flanges.
> >
> I'm about 90% done with a 10 tooth XL, and not at all impressed by the
> actual tooth profile as it has lots of voids.  Supposed to have a top
> flange, but its not gotten there yet.  The bottom was supposed to be
> about 10mm thick so the captured nut would have lots of meat around it,
> but its not sitting flat on the bed, came loose in the first mm and the
> hub section is way thin, guessing 6mm is all.  Cuda had a profile for an
> ender 3 pro, but this isn't showing me its optimum. Done.  Looks like an
> XL belt will fit, the flange looks usable.  Had to dig out the nut
> pocket as it had the first layer laydown across it, but I've no clue
> where I might find a nut that small. Even the base hub is semi
> transparent like the PLA feed was too slow to fill 100%, I can hold it
> up in front of the monitor, shade it from the overhead lights and see
> flashes of light coming thru between the strings in the nominally 6mm
> thick base hub. I wouldn't call that more than 25% filled.  And the
> teeth are edgy enough to affect the service life of the belt.
>
> So, redo it for a 10mm thick hub, and turn up the extruder feed to get
> better fill?  Or reduce the xy feed rate, giving the pla a better chance
> to fill? Which stands the best chance to getting something usable on the
> next pass?  Then I need to make a bigger one, 28 or 32 teeth. To serve
> as the Z drive on the Sheldon, first match the current tooth count just
> to see if a 3NM motor is froggy enough.. Mainly because I have spare
> belts for the existing rig.  What I have obtained is a nema 34 to nema
> 23 adapter, and that won't change the belts tooth count since the motor
> shaft won't move laterally.
>
> Stay safe and well & thanks Chris.
>
> Gene
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sou

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

I don't think "squashed" is the word.  That would mean the line width is 2X
wider.  The way it works is a 0.4mm nozzle flies maybe 0.2 or 0.1 mm
over the surface and the gape is filled with hot plastic that is metered
out at exactly the same speed the nozzle flies.   It should not print wider
then the nozzle width.  But I think it does a tiny bit.

This is one reason not to use 0.2mm nozzles, the layer thickness would have
to be 0.1 or less and then the line width is only 1/2 as wider.   It would
take days to make a print.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:58 PM Thaddeus Waldner  wrote:

> I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that
> in order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed
> track needs to be  slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A
> good rule of thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times
> the nozzle diameter and no less than 1.5 times the nozzle diameter.
>
> My experience might not be universal, since I’m using an old Stratasys
> with a heated build envelope and print mostly ABS. AND I can’t change out
> the nozzle.
>
> > On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Chris Albertson 
> wrote:
> >
> > I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm
> nozzle.
> >  They came out just fine.
> >
> > The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
> > nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My
> pulley
> > fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting factor.
> On
> > my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause the greatest error.
> >
> > Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm
> diameter
> > end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside radius.  Same
> > with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can make at best a
> 0.2
> > radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm radius.  But the
> > printer steps are that size and introduce a larger error than the nozzle.
> > In any case what you really care about is error in motion transfer
> between
> > the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny radius error on an outside
> corner
> > does not change how the belt sits in the pulley.
> >
> > There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
> > cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
> >
> > Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
> > software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough the
> > slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
> > measurements good enough.
> >
> > When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
> > largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent error
> > down.
> >
> > I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses ground
> > steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything else is
> the
> > same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by 9mm wide GT3
> > profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make the flanges
> wider
> > as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges that came to a point.
> I
> > made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm center bore. Odd that I
> > could print the tooth profile just fine but not the flanges.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:26 AM Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
> >
> >> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
> >>
> >>> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> >>> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> >>> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> >>> nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
> >>> usual learning curve.
> >>> Karl
> >>>
> >> Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I
> have
> >> the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought
> >> to be done by dinner time.
> >>
> >> I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing
> pulleys
> >> though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its
> >> doing now.
> >>
> >> Thanks Karl.
> >>
> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >> --
> >> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> >> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> >> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> >> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law
> respectable.
> >> - Louis D. Brandeis
> >> Genes Web page 
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> Emc-users mailing list
> >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Chris Albertson
> > Redondo Beach, California
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
>
> __

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 16:37:08 Chris Albertson wrote:

> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm
> nozzle. They came out just fine.
>
> The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
> nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My
> pulley fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting
> factor.On my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause
> the greatest error.
>
> Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm
> diameter end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside
> radius.  Same with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can
> make at best a 0.2 radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm
> radius.  But the printer steps are that size and introduce a larger
> error than the nozzle. In any case what you really care about is error
> in motion transfer between the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny
> radius error on an outside corner does not change how the belt sits in
> the pulley.
>
> There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
> cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
>
> Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
> software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough
> the slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
> measurements good enough.
>
> When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
> largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent
> error down.
>
> I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses
> ground steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything
> else is the same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by
> 9mm wide GT3 profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make
> the flanges wider as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges
> that came to a point.  I made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm
> center bore. Odd that I could print the tooth profile just fine
> but not the flanges.
>
I'm about 90% done with a 10 tooth XL, and not at all impressed by the 
actual tooth profile as it has lots of voids.  Supposed to have a top 
flange, but its not gotten there yet.  The bottom was supposed to be 
about 10mm thick so the captured nut would have lots of meat around it, 
but its not sitting flat on the bed, came loose in the first mm and the 
hub section is way thin, guessing 6mm is all.  Cuda had a profile for an 
ender 3 pro, but this isn't showing me its optimum. Done.  Looks like an 
XL belt will fit, the flange looks usable.  Had to dig out the nut 
pocket as it had the first layer laydown across it, but I've no clue 
where I might find a nut that small. Even the base hub is semi 
transparent like the PLA feed was too slow to fill 100%, I can hold it 
up in front of the monitor, shade it from the overhead lights and see 
flashes of light coming thru between the strings in the nominally 6mm 
thick base hub. I wouldn't call that more than 25% filled.  And the 
teeth are edgy enough to affect the service life of the belt.

So, redo it for a 10mm thick hub, and turn up the extruder feed to get 
better fill?  Or reduce the xy feed rate, giving the pla a better chance 
to fill? Which stands the best chance to getting something usable on the 
next pass?  Then I need to make a bigger one, 28 or 32 teeth. To serve 
as the Z drive on the Sheldon, first match the current tooth count just 
to see if a 3NM motor is froggy enough.. Mainly because I have spare 
belts for the existing rig.  What I have obtained is a nema 34 to nema 
23 adapter, and that won't change the belts tooth count since the motor 
shaft won't move laterally.

Stay safe and well & thanks Chris.

Gene


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Thaddeus Waldner]

I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in 
order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track 
needs to be  slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A good rule of 
thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times the nozzle 
diameter and no less than 1.5 times the nozzle diameter.

My experience might not be universal, since I’m using an old Stratasys with a 
heated build envelope and print mostly ABS. AND I can’t change out the nozzle.

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:37 PM, Chris Albertson  wrote:
> 
> I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
>  They came out just fine.
> 
> The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
> nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My pulley
> fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting factor.On
> my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause the greatest error.
> 
> Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm diameter
> end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside radius.  Same
> with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can make at best a 0.2
> radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm radius.  But the
> printer steps are that size and introduce a larger error than the nozzle.
> In any case what you really care about is error in motion transfer between
> the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny radius error on an outside corner
> does not change how the belt sits in the pulley.
> 
> There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
> cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.
> 
> Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
> software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough the
> slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
> measurements good enough.
> 
> When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
> largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent error
> down.
> 
> I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses ground
> steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything else is the
> same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by 9mm wide GT3
> profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make the flanges wider
> as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges that came to a point.  I
> made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm center bore. Odd that I
> could print the tooth profile just fine but not the flanges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:26 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
>> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
>> 
>>> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
>>> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
>>> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
>>> nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
>>> usual learning curve.
>>> Karl
>>> 
>> Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I have
>> the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought
>> to be done by dinner time.
>> 
>> I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing pulleys
>> though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its
>> doing now.
>> 
>> Thanks Karl.
>> 
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>> --
>> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
>> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
>> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>> - Louis D. Brandeis
>> Genes Web page 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
> 
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users



___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
  They came out just fine.

The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer.   My pulley
fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the limiting factor.On
my case it is runout, not tooth shape that will cause the greatest error.

Think of an end mill cutter.  I can make sharp corners with a 12mm diameter
end mill.   What I can't do is make less then a 6mm inside radius.  Same
with the nozzle but backwards.  A 0.4mm roud nozzle can make at best a 0.2
radiu corner while the 0.2 nozzle can print a 0.1mm radius.  But the
printer steps are that size and introduce a larger error than the nozzle.
 In any case what you really care about is error in motion transfer between
the pulleys.   Runout matters but a tiny radius error on an outside corner
does not change how the belt sits in the pulley.

There is a big disadvantage to 0.2 nozzles  (1) they clog up and need
cleaning and (2) printing is about a lot slower.

Your first step before printing pulleys is to print a cube.  Use CAD
software so you know the exact dimension you specified, run it trough the
slicer, print and measure all sides and angles.   Get those
measurements good enough.

When designing with plastic, you have to make stuff bigger.  Use the
largest pulleys that will physically fit and this keeps the percent error
down.

I any case my A6 primer is the same as your Ender except mine uses ground
steel rods for track and yours uses extrusions, But everything else is the
same all down to the Merlin firmware.   My 3mm pitch by 9mm wide GT3
profile pulleys came out pretty good.  I had to make the flanges wider
as the aluminum pulley design has tapered flanges that came to a point.  I
made them thicker and blunter and used a 20mm center bore. Odd that I
could print the tooth profile just fine but not the flanges.




On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:26 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
>
> > Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> > slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> > Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> > nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
> > usual learning curve.
> > Karl
> >
> Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I have
> the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought
> to be done by dinner time.
>
> I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing pulleys
> though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its
> doing now.
>
> Thanks Karl.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:

> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the
> usual learning curve.
> Karl
>
Which for my ancient 85 yo wet ram seems pretty steep, but I think I have 
the top of this hill in sight. That 3d cat is printing now... :-)  Ought 
to be done by dinner time.

I think I need to find some .2 nozzles before doing any XL timing pulleys 
though.  Thats about next. Then I suppose I'll appreciate the speed its 
doing now.

Thanks Karl.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[grumpy--- via Emc-users]

On Tue, 2 Jun 2020, Dave Matthews wrote:


On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:


On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:


Docs?  The entire printer is open source.


No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever
being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times already.


When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
Linux, 64 bit

https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura



i've been using cura on linux for several years with no problems


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:37:54 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett 
>
> wrote:
> > > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
> > >
> > > No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be
> > > a language barrier that prevents a request for that source code
> > > from ever being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times
> > > already.
> >
> > When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
> > Linux, 64 bit
> >
> > https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
>
> Ok, I'll bite, what the heck is an apimage?  Better yet, what do I do
> with it on linux?  Debian 9.8 TBE, all up to date.
>
Found the instructions, kewl!  But does take quite a while to launch 3 
errors of the didn't find it type at launch, seemed to work.  Generated 
a 1.5 megabyte gcode file all customized for a Creality Ender 3 Pro.

That "cat" is about 60% see-thru and nominally 2mm tall, says 40%.  Now I 
need to go get that old pi3b, and install it to connect the OTG socket 
to my local network.  Since I'm obviously not the first to do that, I 
wonder if someone has made a box for that?  Making progress, no relation 
to GE though. :)

Thanks Dave.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

An "appimage" is a self-contained Linux app that runs on any Linux
distribution, Debian, or whatever.   Just download it to your home
directory, make it executable, and run it.  No installation is required.

The idea was copied from MacOS where all apps are distributed this way.
 Mac apps and Linux appimages don't have dependencies.  They are
self-contained.

That said, they will only run on the kind of computer they were built on.
Cura likely needs a 64 bit Intel system.   I doubt it would run on a 32-bit
 system of a Raspberry Pi.

BTW why would a "request for source code" need a reply?   The project is
hosted on Github.  The code is publicly available at
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 9:40 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
>
> > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
> > > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
> > >
> > > No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> > > language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from
> > > ever being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times
> > > already.
> >
> > When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
> > Linux, 64 bit
> >
> > https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
> >
> Ok, I'll bite, what the heck is an apimage?  Better yet, what do I do
> with it on linux?  Debian 9.8 TBE, all up to date.
>
> Thanks Dave.
>
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[andy pugh]

On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 16:39, Gene Heskett  wrote:

>
> > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only.


1) Cura is not part of your printer.
2) Cura is available for Mac, Linux and Windows.
3) The Cura source is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura
4) and this is the licence:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/LICENSE

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Karl Jacobs]

Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to slice
for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the usual
learning curve.
Karl

Am 02.06.2020 um 18:37 schrieb Gene Heskett:
>> When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
>> Linux, 64 bit
>>
>> https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
>>
> Ok, I'll bite, what the heck is an apimage?  Better yet, what do I do
> with it on linux?  Debian 9.8 TBE, all up to date.


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:

> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
> >
> > No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> > language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from
> > ever being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times
> > already.
>
> When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
> Linux, 64 bit
>
> https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
>
Ok, I'll bite, what the heck is an apimage?  Better yet, what do I do 
with it on linux?  Debian 9.8 TBE, all up to date.

Thanks Dave.

> Dave
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Dave Matthews]

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Docs?  The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever
> being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times already.
>
When I go to the Cura downloads page it lists - Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1
Linux, 64 bit

https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Dave


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Docs?  The entire printer is open source.

No it is NOT!  The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a 
language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever 
being replied to.  Been there, done that too many times already.

> The docs are on the SD card 
> but if there is no SD card the content of the card is on Github.  
> There is a video walkthrough and a PDF doc both in assembly and setup.

Got that, printed most of it. Output moved to printers location in 
another bedroom.

> THey also have the CAD files for the printer, Should you want to make
> your own parts or improvements.  The firmware is there too. (It uses
> Marlin)
>
> BTW "Marlin" is the equivalent to LinuxCNC.   It reads the g-code,
> does motion planning and then steps all four steppers.  It is
> impressive if you look at the rates they get using such low-end
> computer hardware.

readjusted bed on 22lb paper, fiddly due to tendency to lay arm on x bar 
while fiddling with back knobs. Also needs stronger or longer springs. 
Or Z home switch lowered at least 2 mm, but its at bottom now.

Restarted cat-3.5h just for S&G. First few layers look fairly good, but 
display isn't showing % done yet.  Now says 2%.  Cat is about 1.5mm 
high.

> https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting
>
> Why am I up so late?   I have some machines still running, parts
> taking "forever".

I can see that effect already. . .

> EDIT, saw your next post.  How to get PLA to stick to the bed.   The
> #1 most important thing is the hight adjustment.  It to low the bad
> blocks the nozel and nothing comes out.  It to high the plastic just
> extrudes into the air and get hard before it hits the plate.It is
> VERY picky that the adjustment is dead-on.   They say to use a sheet
> of paper as a feeler guage.But it matter what kind of paper,  You
> have to try a few.
>
> If done right PLA will stick to a cold aluminum plate but heating up
> to 60C helps. 

i thought I had it up to 60C, but display now says 48. Looks like its 
well stuck to the hot plate.

But I am VERY disappointed unless I can locate something that will run 
cura in this all linux house. No linux executable in that .zip.

Does this mean I have to burn up a spool of pla getting slic3r 
configured?  That SOB must have over 100 variables to play with.  And 
apparently no "canned" profiles for the wide variety of printers 
available.  I'll do some google digging.

> Also the speed is importent.   about 30 mm per second works for many
> people but 15mm/sec works even better

Humm, current maxvels are 500 ack the display, but it sure isn't moving 
that fast right now.
>
> After a while you look at the first layer and know if it is right or
> if not how much to turn the screws on each corner
>
> Play with:
> nozel temp,
200
> bed temp
45
> bed adheision coating, glue stick (somebrands are best) with water of
nothing, didn't even give it an alky wipe.
> not or hair spray or blue tape or kapton tape or,
> Height at "zero"
> print speed in mm/sec
>
> Somecombination of the above will work.   A good test is to print a 6
> or 7 inch wide circle, one layer tall.  The bed has to be VERY flat
> for that to work.Then print a 50mm cube and test for square on all
> corners and 50mm on each side.  Write with sharpis which way to X, Y
> and Z before removing cube.
>
> Once you learn how to make parts stick to the bed, you will find you
> have another problem:  How to remove then without resorting to a
> hammer?

One video showed a 2 later coke  bottle 2/3rds full of water swung 
sideways, popped off and had to retrieve from floor :)
>
> Beginner hint:  In the slicer just use "raft" as the bed adhesion
> method and do that until you learn.  Rafts are nearly fool proof.
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:09 AM andy pugh  wrote:
> > On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> > >
> > > port, looks like an OTG port.  Does anyone know what thats about? 
> > > No other documentation came with it.
> >
> > Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that
> > way rather than on paper.

On paper now.  And somewhat better than whats packed in the box.

Serious nit:  Needs a pair of holes drilled thru the upright on the left 
so one does not have to remove and re-install the whole x bar assembly 
while trying to get it square.  With the drilled holes, one could run 
the Z up to where an allen wrench could reach thru the holes to 
loosen/tighten those screws while adjusting for square with a caliper 
measurement from the X bar to the top of the post on each side.

Serious nit2: Those 2 screws don't fit the allen wrench supplied, nor did 
they fit other wrenches of the supposedly same size. One time screws are 
bull shit. If this is square enough, I am tempted to anoint it with 
green loctite.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defe

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

Docs?  The entire printer is open source.  The docs are on the SD card but
if there is no SD card the content of the card is on Github.   There is a
video walkthrough and a PDF doc both in assembly and setup.

THey also have the CAD files for the printer, Should you want to make your
own parts or improvements.  The firmware is there too. (It uses Marlin)

BTW "Marlin" is the equivalent to LinuxCNC.   It reads the g-code, does
motion planning and then steps all four steppers.  It is impressive if you
look at the rates they get using such low-end computer hardware.

https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting

Why am I up so late?   I have some machines still running, parts taking
"forever".

EDIT, saw your next post.  How to get PLA to stick to the bed.   The #1
most important thing is the hight adjustment.  It to low the bad blocks the
nozel and nothing comes out.  It to high the plastic just extrudes into the
air and get hard before it hits the plate.It is VERY picky that the
adjustment is dead-on.   They say to use a sheet of paper as a feeler
guage.But it matter what kind of paper,  You have to try a few.

If done right PLA will stick to a cold aluminum plate but heating up to 60C
helps.

Also the speed is importent.   about 30 mm per second works for many people
but 15mm/sec works even better

After a while you look at the first layer and know if it is right or if not
how much to turn the screws on each corner

Play with:
nozel temp,
bed temp
bed adheision coating, glue stick (somebrands are best) with water of not
or hair spray or blue tape or kapton tape or,
Height at "zero"
print speed in mm/sec

Somecombination of the above will work.   A good test is to print a 6 or 7
inch wide circle, one layer tall.  The bed has to be VERY flat for that to
work.Then print a 50mm cube and test for square on all corners and 50mm
on each side.  Write with sharpis which way to X, Y and Z before removing
cube.

Once you learn how to make parts stick to the bed, you will find you have
another problem:  How to remove then without resorting to a hammer?

Beginner hint:  In the slicer just use "raft" as the bed adhesion method
and do that until you learn.  Rafts are nearly fool proof.



On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:09 AM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
>
> > port, looks like an OTG port.  Does anyone know what thats about?  No
> > other documentation came with it.
>
>
> Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that way
> rather than on paper.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 04:06:16 andy pugh wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> >
> > port, looks like an OTG port.  Does anyone know what thats about? 
> > No other documentation came with it.
>
> Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that
> way rather than on paper.

u-sd card. I found some docs on the net, but none of what the docs are 
talking about seem to be on the sd card.

I took me about 2 hours to dismantle it and get all the cables routed, 
the another hour to get the crossbar square so the bed could actually be 
adjusted, then another hour to get pla installed, it flat refused to 
feed beyond the pinchers output guide, detecting a jam and backing out 
then trying again.  Apparently forever. Finally cut the end at a high 
angle and spun it till it finally went it.

No high speed feed, so it was another 20 minutes to get the shadow to the 
top of the extruder.  It had a gcode file on the sd card so I started 
that but it was at 3% when the pla finally made it to the nozzle, but it 
bounced off the hot plate, making 6 or 7" of curly pigtail waving 
around. Hit stop. I think I'll see if I can get some sleep.  I've heard 
of folks washing the bed with booze for better adhesion, but 45C doesn't 
appear to be warm enough for even that to work well..  How hot do others 
run the bed with PLA?

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[andy pugh]

On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb

> port, looks like an OTG port.  Does anyone know what thats about?  No
> other documentation came with it.


Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that way
rather than on paper.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users