Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Chris Albertson]

Cured in the bottle?   Some how it got opened before you got it.   It cures
with contact with water vapor in the air

The other polyurethane that is very good is made by 3M and called "3M 5200"
  It is sold as a marine adhesive.

One thing you can do with this 5200 is install a through hole sensor on a
boat that is in sea water.  I drilled a hole with a hole saw and a diver
applies 3M 5200 and the sensor from the outside then I tighten the nut
down.   (Yes a LOT of sea water gets in.) The glue does it's job and the
fitting can never be removed.  The stuff cures to be the same kind of
plastic used on modern inline sake and skateboard wheels.

I good standard test of a glue is to try and glue a 1" steel ball bearing
to a steel plate.  Then measure the force it takes on the side of the ball
to break the bond.  with  5200 you will be using a hydraulic press   The
cured glue is hard to hack-saw. The trick is to use thin music wire and try
to slice the joint with the wire.

Gorilla glue is as sticky but cures to a kind of foam and you can saw the
foam or cut it with a knife or wood chisel.  5200 cuts too but it is just
like trying to cut a skateboard wheel, not easy.


All that said, it is rare to need such a string bond and 5200 costs $25 per
tube and takes 7 days to cure.  I used hot glue last time I wanted to mount
a power supply inside a metal box along with some other electrics.I can
take it apart later with a small pry bar but now I can turn it upside down
a shake it and it stays in place.

On Sat, Oct 22, 2016 at 5:55 PM, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Saturday 22 October 2016 20:21:24 albertson.ch...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >  Two types of glue I can think of one is gorilla glue the stuff is a
> > polyurethane that expands and sticks to anything the other is hot glue
> > which works surprisingly well for mounting electronic parts
> >
> I bought some of a newer gorilla that claimed it doesn't expand so much a
> month ago, but it had cured in the bottle when I tried to open it, so
> I've still no experience with it.  It did sound promising though.
>
> Thanks Chris.
> > > On Oct 22, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Dave Cole 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > I think there is some super high end glue that 3M makes that will
> > > glue HDPE, but most people don't bother trying to glue it.
> > > I would consider stapling velcro to the HDPE strips.I've had
> > > very good luck using the industrial strength velcro that 3M sells,
> > > not the Velcro brand.  I've mounted power supplies with it inside
> > > control cabinets that could not be drilled and years later it is
> > > still working fine.  No failures.
> > > But be careful, the stuff they show holding Fire Extinguishers to
> > > the wall can really do that!   Don't plan on separating that without
> > > really yanking on it.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > >> On 10/22/2016 5:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > >> Greetings all;
> > >>
> > >> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the
> > >> inside face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the
> > >> boxes swinging door plus a couple power supplies and stepper
> > >> drivers in the box proper.
> > >>
> > >> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out
> > >> some strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its
> > >> nominally 1/2" thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be
> > >> glued.
> > >>
> > >> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door,
> > >> and plug up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain
> > >> attempt to exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the
> > >> bottom, its gasketed and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will
> > >> stick to this HDPE.  G0-2 or Goop is one possibility, but is there
> > >> something that will get an even better grip on that stuff?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks.
> > >>
> > >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > >
> > > 
> > >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
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>
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
> 
> --
> Check

Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 23 October 2016 04:09:10 Bruce Layne wrote:

> Slightly Off Topic Tip:  I recently discovered Reynold's Non-Stick
> Foil.  It has a chemically coated side that has a dull finish.  I read
> an excerpt from the patent and I wouldn't want any food touching that
> stuff,

And I've used at least 10 or 15 rolls of that stuff on the gas grill, 
each time doing at least a 2 lb package of pork chops and an occasional 
piece of chicken for my bride as she gets tired of pork and I've been 
allergic to chicken for about 30 years. Pork, the other white meat, way 
less cholesterol than beef. Half a ton or more over the last 20 years.  
I'm still here, and in reasonable possession of my faculties. I think, 
heck I can't remember what I had, or if I had breakfast by noon.

> but it's great for disposable nonstick applications in the 
> shop. My initial test shocked me.  The non-stick property apparently
> uses some magic.  It's incredibly non-stick.  I tumbled some cast lead
> bullets in my rotary tumbler with some powder coat powder.  When the
> bullets smash together, the powder coat is embedded into the surface. 
> I then bake the powder covered bullets in a convection oven at 400F
> for ten minutes to melt and reflow the powder coat.  As you might
> imagine, the molten plastic is very sticky.  It stuck to anything it
> touched.  After baking, the powder coated bullets lift off the
> non-stick foil with ease.  I can see lots of use for this stuff in the
> shop.

I can see where that would, because of the mini-fins formed if sitting on 
its base, play hob with the accuracy. Stand them on their noses so the 
bases remain as rumbled and they'll probably shoot noticeably smaller 
groups.

Lining a muffin pan when doing a wheel weight melt in your casting pot to 
make ingots for the next pouring session. Run it thru the dishwasher & 
put it back in the cupboard for the next batch of muffins or cupcakes. 
The RR should peel off the ingot after its cooled, if not, its just 
floating dross to be skimmed off the pot when next plugged in.

Thanks Bruce.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[andy pugh]

On 23 October 2016 at 08:48, Danny Miller  wrote:
> Glues and paints just
> don't stick to anything in this category and there's no easy answers
> except "just don't use glue".

I looked into this one time when making super-low force load cells for
measuring tension in skin cultures.
I wanted to bond strain gauges to Delrin flex-arms and basically gave
up when the only adhesive that seemed likely to work suggested that a
plasma treatment of the surface was required.

If you have ever tried to attach and wire-up tiny strain gauges you
will realise that it is hard enough already without having to jump
through hoops with the glue.  I changed material.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gregg Eshelman]

A nifty feature of hot glue is 91% isopropyl alcohol will nearly instantly 
release its bond. It'll even get it off fabric. Soak the fabric then pick and 
rub off the glue. 70% will also work but not as quickly.



 
  From: "albertson.ch...@gmail.com" 
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)  
 Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 6:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] glue question?
   
 Two types of glue I can think of one is gorilla glue the stuff is a 
polyurethane that expands and sticks to anything the other is hot glue which 
works surprisingly well for mounting electronic parts
   
 
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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gregg Eshelman]

A google for HDPE glue shows several options, at non-crazy prices. A few years 
ago I looked for glues for various slick 'poly' plastics and the options were 
few, hideously expensive and generally came with a suggestion to not put a lot 
of stress on the bond.

 
  From: Bruce Layne 
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)  
 Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 4:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] glue question?
   
In general, no matter what your glue question is, my glue answer is epoxy.

HDPE is almost as difficult to glue as UHMW or Teflon.  Very low surface 
energy.  I'd recommend cleaning with isopropyl alcohol to remove every 
trace of oil from the surfaces (HPDE and panel), allow it to air dry, 
and then use a liberal amount of RTV silicone.  You seemed to be heading 
in that direction with your Goop musings. Don't be stingy.  Slop it up 
the sides of the HDPE if possible so it has more surface to grip and 
it's protected from shear loads, which are the enemy of adhesives.

I've had good luck mounting stuff like PC power supplies and solid state 
hard drives inside a panel with 3M VHB double sided tape.  VHB = Very 
High Bond.  It's the stuff the auto industry uses to attach automotive 
trim strips to prevent automated car washes from yanking them off.  Even 
then, I try to mount these components on the base of the cabinet so 
gravity is helping the adhesive bond rather than trying to peel the 
device off the vertical side of the panel.  I use powder coated steel 
cabinets, and that's a slick surface that doesn't bond well.  Even 
worse, it's a crinkle finish so there's about half the surface area or 
less for the adhesive bond to grab.
   
 
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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Bruce Layne]

Slightly Off Topic Tip:  I recently discovered Reynold's Non-Stick 
Foil.  It has a chemically coated side that has a dull finish.  I read 
an excerpt from the patent and I wouldn't want any food touching that 
stuff, but it's great for disposable nonstick applications in the shop.  
My initial test shocked me.  The non-stick property apparently uses some 
magic.  It's incredibly non-stick.  I tumbled some cast lead bullets in 
my rotary tumbler with some powder coat powder.  When the bullets smash 
together, the powder coat is embedded into the surface.  I then bake the 
powder covered bullets in a convection oven at 400F for ten minutes to 
melt and reflow the powder coat.  As you might imagine, the molten 
plastic is very sticky.  It stuck to anything it touched.  After baking, 
the powder coated bullets lift off the non-stick foil with ease.  I can 
see lots of use for this stuff in the shop.



On 10/23/2016 03:48 AM, Danny Miller wrote:
> LOW surface energy plastics include nylon, teflon, HDPE, LDPE,
> polypropylene, UHMW, PET, Mylar, and others.  Glues and paints just
> don't stick to anything in this category and there's no easy answers
> except "just don't use glue".  Their hallmark is chemical resistance and
> things NOT sticking to them.


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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Danny Miller]

On 10/23/2016 2:30 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> I considered dropping the face to be joined on my big bench belt sander
> for about long enough to make the surface good and "hairy", but haven't
> actually tried that. About a second maybe as the melting point is
> reached very quickly and I'd want it badly scuffed without melting.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
I know far too much about this, from autism-inspired tests.

Sanding only increases the bondability SOME.  It won't be anywhere near 
enough to be "great", it will never approach the strength of the parent 
material.  Alcohol, thinner, MEK, acetone, etc have no real value except 
in cleaning off residue.  Those work great for ABS or acrylic, they 
partially dissolve the surface leaving it tacky, etched, and the 
polymers are "open".

But both ABS and acrylic are a "high surface energy plastic".  LOW 
surface energy plastics include nylon, teflon, HDPE, LDPE, 
polypropylene, UHMW, PET, Mylar, and others.  Glues and paints just 
don't stick to anything in this category and there's no easy answers 
except "just don't use glue".  Their hallmark is chemical resistance and 
things NOT sticking to them.

Danny





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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 23 October 2016 01:45:58 Danny Miller wrote:

> You CANNOT expect any high-strength bond on HDPE that rivals the
> strength of the material, not with any glue.  Typically it is bolted.
>
I am reaching that conclusion, Danny. I still have enough of those 
mini-wood screws to do that.  8 of them will nicely hold what I have in 
mind ATM.

> E6000 (same an Amazing Goop except uses PERC solvent instead of
> toluene) is the highest strength.
>
> Locktite makes a system for cyanoacrylate where you use a primer to
> activate it and then use this superglue stuff.

I tried that last week on some freshly machined alu, had to make an 
outboard holder for the index ATS667, clamped for about 1/2 hour. A 2 oz 
bump as I was taking it out of the vice and it slid right off that 
faintly colored layer of dried primer. Never penetrated the primer. 
Total waste of 10 bucks for the can of primer/prep spray.

Scraped it clean, drilled & tapped for a 3mm socket head capscrew now 
with a drop of cyanoacrilate in the joint as I was tightening the screw.  
Cleaned with acetone before the s-glue went on. That has survived a trip 
into the milling vice for a part trench to be milled into it.  Needs one 
more 1/16" cut for wire exit. Or the edges dulled and the kynar wire 
formed and gooped in place.  But that stuff is fragile at the solder 
joint, so I am tempted to cut off 3" of ribbon cable & slit it to 3 
conductor pieces. Its crowded under the cover when its in place on the 
spindle, more room below than above. I'll have to machine a pcb by hand 
to serve as an anchoring point for the encoders output cable and it will 
be mounted on this index extension.  Not happened yet tho.

And while there is room under all the gears to run it to an existing 1/4" 
hole in the back face of the bottom half of the spindle housing, its 
also going to be swimming in oil, and I have no clue how oil resistant 
that grey plastic jacket is.  I have several lengths of SS tubing 
commonly used on race cars that this cable could be pulled thru, which 
is another picky to do it way to get this cable out of the spindle 
houseing.

> HDPE can be thermally/ultrasonically welded to more HDPE.  UHMW, that
> doesn't really work because it has a melt index of 0.  If you put it
> in an oven, UHMW becomes a semi-transparent floppy sheet- but it DOES
> NOT melt before it starts decomposing.  Its chains are so long and
> entangled it can't become a liquid and remain UHMW.
>
> Now I do know this.  Society of Creative Anachronism uses UHMW blocks
> on fiberglass arrow shafts for live-combat arrows.  To do this, they
> bore a tight, deep hole that requires compression to seat the shaft
> and use E6000.  The joint never goes out of compression and has a lot
> of surface area in shear alone.  That holds for life, no matter what. 
> But you really won't have that scenario.

No, but that is an interesting use scenario. :)
> Danny
>
> On 10/22/2016 5:22 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
> > In general, no matter what your glue question is, my glue answer is
> > epoxy.

Epoxy or JBWeld hasn't proven to be the answer in plastic scenarios for 
me.

> > HDPE is almost as difficult to glue as UHMW or Teflon.  Very low
> > surface energy.  I'd recommend cleaning with isopropyl alcohol to
> > remove every trace of oil from the surfaces (HPDE and panel), allow
> > it to air dry, and then use a liberal amount of RTV silicone.  You
> > seemed to be heading in that direction with your Goop musings. Don't
> > be stingy.  Slop it up the sides of the HDPE if possible so it has
> > more surface to grip and it's protected from shear loads, which are
> > the enemy of adhesives.

I considered dropping the face to be joined on my big bench belt sander 
for about long enough to make the surface good and "hairy", but haven't 
actually tried that. About a second maybe as the melting point is 
reached very quickly and I'd want it badly scuffed without melting.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Danny Miller]

You CANNOT expect any high-strength bond on HDPE that rivals the 
strength of the material, not with any glue.  Typically it is bolted.

E6000 (same an Amazing Goop except uses PERC solvent instead of toluene) 
is the highest strength.

Locktite makes a system for cyanoacrylate where you use a primer to 
activate it and then use this superglue stuff.

HDPE can be thermally/ultrasonically welded to more HDPE.  UHMW, that 
doesn't really work because it has a melt index of 0.  If you put it in 
an oven, UHMW becomes a semi-transparent floppy sheet- but it DOES NOT 
melt before it starts decomposing.  Its chains are so long and entangled 
it can't become a liquid and remain UHMW.

Now I do know this.  Society of Creative Anachronism uses UHMW blocks on 
fiberglass arrow shafts for live-combat arrows.  To do this, they bore a 
tight, deep hole that requires compression to seat the shaft and use 
E6000.  The joint never goes out of compression and has a lot of surface 
area in shear alone.  That holds for life, no matter what.  But you 
really won't have that scenario.

Danny


On 10/22/2016 5:22 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
> In general, no matter what your glue question is, my glue answer is epoxy.
>
> HDPE is almost as difficult to glue as UHMW or Teflon.  Very low surface
> energy.  I'd recommend cleaning with isopropyl alcohol to remove every
> trace of oil from the surfaces (HPDE and panel), allow it to air dry,
> and then use a liberal amount of RTV silicone.  You seemed to be heading
> in that direction with your Goop musings. Don't be stingy.  Slop it up
> the sides of the HDPE if possible so it has more surface to grip and
> it's protected from shear loads, which are the enemy of adhesives.
>
> I've had good luck mounting stuff like PC power supplies and solid state
> hard drives inside a panel with 3M VHB double sided tape.  VHB = Very
> High Bond.  It's the stuff the auto industry uses to attach automotive
> trim strips to prevent automated car washes from yanking them off.  Even
> then, I try to mount these components on the base of the cabinet so
> gravity is helping the adhesive bond rather than trying to peel the
> device off the vertical side of the panel.  I use powder coated steel
> cabinets, and that's a slick surface that doesn't bond well.  Even
> worse, it's a crinkle finish so there's about half the surface area or
> less for the adhesive bond to grab.
>
>
>
> On 10/22/2016 05:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>> Greetings all;
>>
>> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside
>> face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging
>> door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper.
>>
>> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some
>> strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its nominally 1/2"
>> thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued.
>>
>> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug
>> up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to
>> exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed
>> and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.  G0-2
>> or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even
>> better grip on that stuff?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 22 October 2016 20:21:24 albertson.ch...@gmail.com wrote:

>  Two types of glue I can think of one is gorilla glue the stuff is a
> polyurethane that expands and sticks to anything the other is hot glue
> which works surprisingly well for mounting electronic parts
>
I bought some of a newer gorilla that claimed it doesn't expand so much a 
month ago, but it had cured in the bottle when I tried to open it, so 
I've still no experience with it.  It did sound promising though.

Thanks Chris.
> > On Oct 22, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Dave Cole 
> > wrote:
> >
> > I think there is some super high end glue that 3M makes that will
> > glue HDPE, but most people don't bother trying to glue it.
> > I would consider stapling velcro to the HDPE strips.I've had
> > very good luck using the industrial strength velcro that 3M sells,
> > not the Velcro brand.  I've mounted power supplies with it inside
> > control cabinets that could not be drilled and years later it is
> > still working fine.  No failures.
> > But be careful, the stuff they show holding Fire Extinguishers to
> > the wall can really do that!   Don't plan on separating that without
> > really yanking on it.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >> On 10/22/2016 5:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >> Greetings all;
> >>
> >> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the
> >> inside face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the
> >> boxes swinging door plus a couple power supplies and stepper
> >> drivers in the box proper.
> >>
> >> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out
> >> some strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its
> >> nominally 1/2" thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be
> >> glued.
> >>
> >> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door,
> >> and plug up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain
> >> attempt to exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the
> >> bottom, its gasketed and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will
> >> stick to this HDPE.  G0-2 or Goop is one possibility, but is there
> >> something that will get an even better grip on that stuff?
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >
> > 
> >-- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 22 October 2016 19:49:41 andy pugh wrote:

> On 22 October 2016 at 22:47, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.
>
> Drill and tap it. Or through bolt.

I'm considering that too.  As for the tap, I have some teeny wood screws 
about 5/16" long, and drill bits smaller than that. What I need is for 
it to be removable in case something better comes along, without having 
to plug all the old holes.  I'll get something going from all the 
suggestions made I'm sure.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 22 October 2016 18:33:53 Dave Cole wrote:

> I think there is some super high end glue that 3M makes that will glue
> HDPE, but most people don't bother trying to glue it.
> I would consider stapling velcro to the HDPE strips.

Now thats a thought that hadn't crossed my mind. I don't think the 3m 
velcro would be needed for this.  ISTR I saw some that had a tape 
adhesive on the back side, so I'll look for some of that soonest.

  > I've had very 
> good luck using the industrial strength velcro that 3M sells, not the
> Velcro brand.  I've mounted power supplies with it inside control
> cabinets that could not be drilled and years later it is still working
> fine.  No failures.

I have 3 psu's standing on edge in this box, stuck down with Go-2.  I've 
bumped them pretty good over the last week or so, but they did have 
about a week for the stuff to cure, so they are pretty solidly stuck 
now. 3 because what I had won't individually handle an 8 wire, wired 
parallel motor, so 2, with a 1/2 ohm current sharing buildout gives me 
more than enough amps to make that puppy beg.  The 3rd one is 60 volt, 
7.2 amp for the nema 34 spinning Z.

> But be careful, the stuff they show holding Fire Extinguishers to the
> wall can really do that!   Don't plan on separating that without
> really yanking on it.
>
That would be the nylon knob and ball stuff.  It has an excellent grip!

> Dave

Thanks Dave.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[albertson . chris]

 Two types of glue I can think of one is gorilla glue the stuff is a 
polyurethane that expands and sticks to anything the other is hot glue which 
works surprisingly well for mounting electronic parts

> On Oct 22, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Dave Cole  wrote:
> 
> I think there is some super high end glue that 3M makes that will glue 
> HDPE, but most people don't bother trying to glue it.
> I would consider stapling velcro to the HDPE strips.I've had very 
> good luck using the industrial strength velcro that 3M sells, not the 
> Velcro brand.  I've mounted power supplies with it inside control 
> cabinets that could not be drilled and years later it is still working 
> fine.  No failures.
> But be careful, the stuff they show holding Fire Extinguishers to the 
> wall can really do that!   Don't plan on separating that without really 
> yanking on it.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
>> On 10/22/2016 5:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>> Greetings all;
>> 
>> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside
>> face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging
>> door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper.
>> 
>> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some
>> strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its nominally 1/2"
>> thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued.
>> 
>> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug
>> up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to
>> exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed
>> and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.  G0-2
>> or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even
>> better grip on that stuff?
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[andy pugh]

On 22 October 2016 at 22:47, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.

Drill and tap it. Or through bolt.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Bruce Layne]

In general, no matter what your glue question is, my glue answer is epoxy.

HDPE is almost as difficult to glue as UHMW or Teflon.  Very low surface 
energy.  I'd recommend cleaning with isopropyl alcohol to remove every 
trace of oil from the surfaces (HPDE and panel), allow it to air dry, 
and then use a liberal amount of RTV silicone.  You seemed to be heading 
in that direction with your Goop musings. Don't be stingy.  Slop it up 
the sides of the HDPE if possible so it has more surface to grip and 
it's protected from shear loads, which are the enemy of adhesives.

I've had good luck mounting stuff like PC power supplies and solid state 
hard drives inside a panel with 3M VHB double sided tape.  VHB = Very 
High Bond.  It's the stuff the auto industry uses to attach automotive 
trim strips to prevent automated car washes from yanking them off.  Even 
then, I try to mount these components on the base of the cabinet so 
gravity is helping the adhesive bond rather than trying to peel the 
device off the vertical side of the panel.  I use powder coated steel 
cabinets, and that's a slick surface that doesn't bond well.  Even 
worse, it's a crinkle finish so there's about half the surface area or 
less for the adhesive bond to grab.



On 10/22/2016 05:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
>
> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside
> face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging
> door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper.
>
> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some
> strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its nominally 1/2"
> thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued.
>
> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug
> up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to
> exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed
> and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.  G0-2
> or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even
> better grip on that stuff?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett


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Re: [Emc-users] glue question?

[Dave Cole]

I think there is some super high end glue that 3M makes that will glue 
HDPE, but most people don't bother trying to glue it.
I would consider stapling velcro to the HDPE strips.I've had very 
good luck using the industrial strength velcro that 3M sells, not the 
Velcro brand.  I've mounted power supplies with it inside control 
cabinets that could not be drilled and years later it is still working 
fine.  No failures.
But be careful, the stuff they show holding Fire Extinguishers to the 
wall can really do that!   Don't plan on separating that without really 
yanking on it.

Dave



On 10/22/2016 5:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
>
> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside
> face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging
> door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper.
>
> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some
> strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its nominally 1/2"
> thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued.
>
> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug
> up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to
> exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed
> and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.  G0-2
> or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even
> better grip on that stuff?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

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[Emc-users] glue question?

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside 
face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging 
door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper.

As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some 
strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those.  Its nominally 1/2" 
thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued. 

So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug 
up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to 
exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed 
and liquid tight.  So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE.  G0-2 
or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even 
better grip on that stuff?

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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