Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Lester Caine
On 11/04/15 18:01, Gene Heskett wrote:
 an internal solution is required, and tanking is a 
  well established process which can make even the wettest basement
  habitable. The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work
  can recover even basements with running water under them :)
 Tanking?  Not gonna happen, this pair of packrats has filled it with lots 
 of momento's that at the end of our run, probably aren't even yard sale 
 table stuff.

Having seen what some people have achieved in London basements anything
is possible, but there has to be value in doing it. Like converting a
£150k black hole into a £500k studio flat. Some thing like £250k profit!
... We all seem to be in the wrong game ;)

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Jon Elson
On 04/10/2015 11:31 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

 This place isn't that bad, YET.
Yes, probably takes 50+ years.  (Cue ominous music...)
 How does that product compare  with the sackrete version of hydraulic
 cement?
Not cement at all.  It is two epoxies.  First you glue 
little tube fittings to the wall at 1' intervals.  Then, you 
glue up the crack with the hard, grey epoxy, and let it set 
for a day.  Then, you mix up this thin, liquid stuff that 
turns into a rubbery filler, and inject into the fittings.  
I did not do a great job of the gluing of the fittings, and 
had leaks there.  I did my best to hold back the leaks and 
get the stuff into the crack.
   Comes in a 10 lb yellow tub, dry, and I paid a tenner for a
 plastic tub of it today.  But its too wet to use it now.
The whole deal with this LCR, I think, it that it cures into 
a rubbery material.  This allows the cracked wall to flex 
somewhat with wet-dry cycles without breaking the seal.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Karlsson Wang
Well you have to add drainage on the outside! It might also be good with a 
layer insulation.


http://www.google.se/imgres?imgurl=http://www.anticimex.com/sv/SysContentAssets/6d5ad92fe5de49e581810cbe5f5e2d89/moderna_kallare_har_skyddande_isolering.jpg/imgrefurl=http://www.anticimex.com/sv/se/Privat/Fukt/Grund-och-kallare/Kallare/h=261w=515tbnid=9SGTcNJxIeOUwM:zoom=1docid=YHiPGe1mvgK9BMei=_rsoVdj_JseqswGMhoCgBwtbm=ischved=0CCQQMygFMAU




On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 20:44:41 -0500
Jon Elson el...@pico-systems.com wrote:

 On 04/10/2015 12:14 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings all;
 
  I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a sump
  dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had north of
  3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the battle.
 
 
 I can't help with the G-code, I know the mill operations better.
 
 But, I had a leaky crack in my basement, and used the LCR 
 (Liquid concrete repair) kit sold
 through the internet for under $80 delivered.  I only used 
 half the kit, as it was almost a hairline crack.  It has 
 been over a full year, now, and NOT a DROP of leakage.  It 
 used to make lakes on the basement floor.  So, I highly 
 recommend this stuff.
 We have had several major downpours since I made the fix, 
 and it has held.
 
 Jon
 
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gregg Eshelman
Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench 
around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a 
geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging 
the gravel.

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 4/10/2015 8:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

 My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
 washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
 what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface was
 given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a clue if
 it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings in '74 when
 the place was built.

Cinder blocks? Sometimes called pumice blocks but pumice is too light 
and wimpy. Lightly crushed volcanic cinder (foamy reddish lava rock) 
mixed with cement to stick it together.

It's the styrofoam version of concrete. Not for load bearing structural 
use, except for holding itself up, at which it tends to excel poorly. 
Likes to crumble in earthquakes. Absolutely not suitable for use as jack 
stands. Should be filled solid with concrete and rebar if you insist 
upon building a structure with these blocks that you want to be 
reasonably certain it will stay upright.

Would likely make a heck of a mess, but if you could flood the cavities 
in the blocks with sodium silicate then let that dry after it drains 
out, followed by painting a coat of urethane resin on the inside of the 
wall, that might seal the blocks to keep the water on the out side. I'd 
finish the job by pumping the cavities full of low expanding urethane foam.

Sodium silicate was pumped into a cracked wall and surrounding soil at a 
leaking radioactive fuel storage pool at the Fukushima nuclear power 
plant, stopped the leak, might work on your basement. Might even 
strengthen the blocks and prevent unintended basement living in the 
event of an earthquake.


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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 05:31:44 Gregg Eshelman wrote:
 On 4/10/2015 8:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
  washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
  what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface
  was given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a
  clue if it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings
  in '74 when the place was built.

 Cinder blocks? Sometimes called pumice blocks but pumice is too light
 and wimpy. Lightly crushed volcanic cinder (foamy reddish lava rock)
 mixed with cement to stick it together.

No reddish tint to them.  Major content is usually fly ash from a coal 
burning power plant, same light grey color as a good block is.

 It's the styrofoam version of concrete. Not for load bearing
 structural use, except for holding itself up, at which it tends to
 excel poorly. Likes to crumble in earthquakes. Absolutely not suitable
 for use as jack stands. Should be filled solid with concrete and rebar
 if you insist upon building a structure with these blocks that you
 want to be reasonably certain it will stay upright.

Geologically quiet, they almost got away with it. Tops inaccessible 
without boring a hole into the block, no doubt further weakening it.

 Would likely make a heck of a mess, but if you could flood the
 cavities in the blocks with sodium silicate then let that dry after it
 drains out, followed by painting a coat of urethane resin on the
 inside of the wall, that might seal the blocks to keep the water on
 the out side. I'd finish the job by pumping the cavities full of low
 expanding urethane foam.

Which would improve the insulation at the same time. But I don't think 
Dee's lungs, already in sad shape from COPD, could tolerate the odor 
that never quite leaves.

 Sodium silicate was pumped into a cracked wall and surrounding soil at
 a leaking radioactive fuel storage pool at the Fukushima nuclear power
 plant, stopped the leak, might work on your basement. Might even
 strengthen the blocks and prevent unintended basement living in the
 event of an earthquake.

That doesn't seem to be a major hazard in these parts, the only one I 
know of and felt in 31 years here was the one that damaged the 
Washington Monument, at least 150 air miles away.  My chair I'm sitting 
in did a few 1/4 circles on the rug pad at the time but nothing was 
jiggled off a shelf.

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Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 06:59:55 Lester Caine wrote:

 Snip the advert for bad builders :)

Ok, done :)

  Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed
  by a subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a
  shovel!

 All sounds about par for the course ...

Chuckle, thats why they aren't stock brokers I guess.

 If access to the outside of the foundations is relatively easy then
 obviously that is the way to do it right, but when there are other
 restrictions preventing that ... such as the neighbours house or a
 public road ...

In our case, decks we have built on, both front and back.

 an internal solution is required, and tanking is a 
 well established process which can make even the wettest basement
 habitable. The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work
 can recover even basements with running water under them :)

Tanking?  Not gonna happen, this pair of packrats has filled it with lots 
of momento's that at the end of our run, probably aren't even yard sale 
table stuff.

Dump it, preferably in the storm drains. If not, use it to help keep the 
sewer flushed and open.  The ideal would be to run it down the wall in a 
straight line about 5 feet up and out the end of the basement to 
intercept where we *think* the storm drain runs.  Unforch that would be 
under either a hot pink azaelea thats been there for 35-40 years and 
sacrosanct, or even more unlucky, under the central airs compressor pad.  
Either would be a pain in the butt.

Redistribution on the yard would help me grow healthier looking weeds, 
but they would still be weeds. And would probably recycle it back into 
the sump pit in 3 days. :(

I've put 50 lbs of grass seed on this place over the last 25 years and 
its still 20% wild onions and 50% moss. I even tilled a patch in the 
front yard about 15x30 several years ago try and start some decent 
looking grass from scratch and seeded it new.  Can't find it today.  Its 
our place, all paid for, but the villages neat yard showcase? not...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 05:15:51 Gregg Eshelman wrote:
 Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench
 around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a
 geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging
 the gravel.

That was done (obviously poorly or not deep enough) as project #1 when my 
yet to be wife bought the place in '80. Supposedly the gutters drain 
into this also, and I considered taking the sump pumps output and 
dumping it into one of those, but its far enough away I'd have to dig 3 
feet deep to get under the frost line and intercept it for a good 16 
feet of run.

Considered, but I would have to demolish the back deck to gain digging 
access. So it appears that I will be adding tan water to the run from 
the bathtub/shower to the other end of the house, a mod I made in 
about '92 to keep the sewer working.  The folks who plumbed the sewer 
were an abject failure at the plumbing rule #2 that says shit runs 
downhill so they dumped the commode into the main run under the basement 
floor where the solids settled out, blocking the sewer for the rest of 
the house repeatedly.  So I disconnected the bathtub from dropping into 
that standpipe, and took it 25 feet to the beginning of the run and Y'd 
it into the newly city mandated cleanout port on an outside wall so that 
everytime we took a shower, some of those solids would be flushed on 
thru the system, aided by the flow from the laundry tube and washing 
machine.  Haven't had to call the city and have them blow it out since, 
so the port they mandated I retrofit has never been used for the 
intended purpose

Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed by a 
subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a shovel!

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Lester Caine
On 11/04/15 11:00, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench
  around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a
  geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging
  the gravel.
 That was done (obviously poorly or not deep enough) as project #1 when my 
 yet to be wife bought the place in '80. Supposedly the gutters drain 
 into this also, and I considered taking the sump pumps output and 
 dumping it into one of those, but its far enough away I'd have to dig 3 
 feet deep to get under the frost line and intercept it for a good 16 
 feet of run.
 
Snip the advert for bad builders :)
 
 Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed by a 
 subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a shovel!

All sounds about par for the course ...

If access to the outside of the foundations is relatively easy then
obviously that is the way to do it right, but when there are other
restrictions preventing that ... such as the neighbours house or a
public road ... an internal solution is required, and tanking is a well
established process which can make even the wettest basement habitable.
The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work can recover
even basements with running water under them :)

-- 
Lester Caine - G8HFL
-
Contact - http://lsces.co.uk/wiki/?page=contact
L.S.Caine Electronic Services - http://lsces.co.uk
EnquirySolve - http://enquirysolve.com/
Model Engineers Digital Workshop - http://medw.co.uk
Rainbow Digital Media - http://rainbowdigitalmedia.co.uk

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett


On Friday 10 April 2015 23:37:43 Jon Elson wrote:
 On 04/10/2015 09:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
  washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
  what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface
  was given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a
  clue if it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings
  in '74 when the place was built.

 Yes, my previous place had some kind of clay tile blocks for
 the foundation, built in the 1930's,
 apparently.  We'd get fountains of water pouring in from
 several places, about 2-3 feet above the floor, running
 about as hard as a garden hose,

This place isn't that bad, YET.

 when we had a strong 
 downpour.  The fix was to move - giving the buyer full
 disclosure in writing.  I was amazed somebody was willing to
 buy the place, but I wanted to be RID of the place.

 The new place (we've been here 26 years on May 1st)  has
 really good concrete, but there was a crack on one of the
 long walls.  It must have gotten wide enough at the top to
 tear the waterproofing and let water into the crack.  The
 LCR stuff fixed it the first time.

How does that product compare  with the sackrete version of hydraulic 
cement?  Comes in a 10 lb yellow tub, dry, and I paid a tenner for a 
plastic tub of it today.  But its too wet to use it now.

 But, it is for fairly 
 narrow cracks.  For big holes and whatnot, you might fashion
 plugs and then seal them with PC-7 epoxy in the red and
 black metal cans.  Relatively inexpensive bulk epoxy, and I
 think if installed when the wall is dry, it will hold water
 after curing.

Probably until the wooden plug inside the epoxy goes away. ;-)  Epoxy, in 
the long term, does allow the surface to breath and absorb moisture.  
Needs a good layer of 4lb cut shellac under it for really long term 
exposure like a boat hull.  Where long term is 30 years.

Thanks Jon.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread andy pugh
On 10 April 2015 at 18:14, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 But nothing I have done can get rid of a bad character y used in line 12.

Normally this means that the G-code is using an axis letter that the
config does not support.

If this is lathe G-code it would normally use X and Z not Y and Z. But
I seem to recall that for some reason you are using Y ad Z, but
perhaps not in this config?


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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 10 April 2015 13:38:48 sam sokolik wrote:
 I didn't change anything...

But I did, and it worked.  I am needing to put a postit on the lathes 
monitor that says, Hey dumbass, a lathe has NO Y axis.

 On 04/10/2015 12:14 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  %
  #_startz  = 81.0
  #_endz= 60.0
  #_tmp = 0.00
  #_startx  = 29.0
  s900
  m3
  g4p0.5 (one half sec for spindle rpms)
  o10 while [#_tmp le 9.000]
  g0 z#_startz
  g0 y[#_startx + #_tmp]
  g1 F75 z#_endz x[[#_startx + #_tmp] + 4.]
  #_tmp = [#_tmp + 0.5]
  o10 endwhile
  m5
  m2

But that machine is crashing. So lemme look at the logs.  And nothing 
looks as if it went south, but I have had to reboot that sucker 3 times 
so far today.  But this time I d NOT leave LCNC loaded but inactive.

What I can't figure out, is that this incoming msg message should have 
no links to /net/lathe/home/gene/linuxcnc/nc-files that are coupled with 
kmails ability to look at this incoming msg, doingv it naked and runs 
great till I try to reply to a msg.  Seems to  crash both the lathe's 
computer AND lock up kmail here when I hit reply!

There are folks who would call this a snilmerg.  But I have far more 
colorfull and descriptive names for this PIMA.

Thanks for reading, ideas welcomed.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 10 April 2015 14:24:45 Todd Zuercher wrote:
 I think your error on line 12 is - #_tmp should be + #_tmp.

There was that too, but the real error was that I had forgotten a lathe 
does NOT have a Y axis.  I need to stick a postit note on the monitor. 
:(

Stuff like this drives me to drink, and the drive is getting shorter 
every year...

 - Original Message -
 From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 1:14:23
 PM
 Subject: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

 Greetings all;

 I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a
 sump dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had
 north of 3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the battle.

 One leak I could stop, with a plug and a 4 lb hammer is under the
 laundry sink and about 2 up on the block wall.  And obviously I
 cannot put a hydraulic cement in the hole when its pouring out of the
 hole hard enough its 6 out before it hits the floor.

 So I go out to the shop, grab  4 feet of old broom handle  chuck it
 up and make kit about 8 or 9 long.

 Then with a cutoff tool still mounted I figure I can write a routine
 to cut a taper suitable for driving in to the hole with said 4lb maul.

 But nothing I have done can get rid of a bad character y used in line
 12.

 So here it is, my head and eyes are apparently incapable of seeing the
 error if indeed there is one.
 %
 #_startz= 81.0
 #_endz  = 60.0
 #_tmp   = 0.00
 #_starty= 29.0
 s900
 m3
 g4p0.5 (one half sec for spindle rpms)
 o10 while [#_tmp le 9.000]
 g0 z#_startz
 g0 y[#_starty + #_tmp]
 g1 F75 z#_endz y[[#_starty - #_tmp] + 4.]
 #_tmp = [#_tmp + 0.5]
 o10 endwhile
 m5
 m2
 %

 Which ought to carve a taper on the end of the broom handle, 4mm
 bigger at the leftmost Z point than at the right most z point.

 My error, or LinuxCNC's?
 In the meantime I am taking in 2 or 3 gallons a minute thru the hole.

 Cheers, Gene Heskett

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 10 April 2015 14:26:50 Todd Zuercher wrote:
 Does this work better?

No, not until the y axis, which a lathe doesn't have is edited to become 
the x axis.  Can I plead oldtimers, or maybe too damned tired to code 
from digging at that hole for the sump pump in the basement?  Gotta be a 
plausible excuse in here some place, Todd.

Thanks. :)

 %
 #_startz= 81.0
 #_endz= 60.0
 #_tmp= 0.00
 #_starty= 29.0
 s900
 m3
 g4p0.5 (one half sec for spindle rpms)
 o10 while [#_tmp le 9.000]
 g0 z#_startz
 g0 y[#_starty + #_tmp]
 g1 F75 z#_endz y[[#_starty + #_tmp] + 4.]
 #_tmp = [#_tmp + 0.5]
 o10 endwhile
 m5
 m2
 %


 - Original Message -
 From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 1:14:23
 PM
 Subject: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

 Greetings all;

 I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a
 sump dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had
 north of 3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the battle.

 One leak I could stop, with a plug and a 4 lb hammer is under the
 laundry sink and about 2 up on the block wall.  And obviously I
 cannot put a hydraulic cement in the hole when its pouring out of the
 hole hard enough its 6 out before it hits the floor.

 So I go out to the shop, grab  4 feet of old broom handle  chuck it
 up and make kit about 8 or 9 long.

 Then with a cutoff tool still mounted I figure I can write a routine
 to cut a taper suitable for driving in to the hole with said 4lb maul.

 But nothing I have done can get rid of a bad character y used in line
 12.

 So here it is, my head and eyes are apparently incapable of seeing the
 error if indeed there is one.
 %
 #_startz= 81.0
 #_endz  = 60.0
 #_tmp   = 0.00
 #_starty= 29.0
 s900
 m3
 g4p0.5 (one half sec for spindle rpms)
 o10 while [#_tmp le 9.000]
 g0 z#_startz
 g0 y[#_starty + #_tmp]
 g1 F75 z#_endz y[[#_starty - #_tmp] + 4.]
 #_tmp = [#_tmp + 0.5]
 o10 endwhile
 m5
 m2
 %

 Which ought to carve a taper on the end of the broom handle, 4mm
 bigger at the leftmost Z point than at the right most z point.

 My error, or LinuxCNC's?
 In the meantime I am taking in 2 or 3 gallons a minute thru the hole.

 Cheers, Gene Heskett

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 10 April 2015 17:43:03 andy pugh wrote:
 On 10 April 2015 at 18:14, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  But nothing I have done can get rid of a bad character y used in
  line 12.

 Normally this means that the G-code is using an axis letter that the
 config does not support.

 If this is lathe G-code it would normally use X and Z not Y and Z. But
 I seem to recall that for some reason you are using Y ad Z, but
 perhaps not in this config?

Nah, Andy, I saw the error of my ways a couple or 3 years ago on that 
point.  But this morning, short term memory was occupied listening to 
all the muscle complaints as I'd overworked my leg muscles already 
digging in a sump pump pit and they were screaming  burning.  I had 
pulled about 7 gallons of mud/yellow clay gumbo out of a hole flooded 
with muddy water, so I was working by feel alone to dig.  Probably 20 
gallons to go before the plastic tub for the pump to stand it will fit.  
The pump in the meantime is hanging in a clothesline wire noose that 
lets it touch the bottom of the hole but holds it close enough to 
vertical for a drunk. 10 or 15 degrees of lean from plumb is just fine 
for that.

Diabetics can easily use up all the fuel in a muscle, fuel that properly 
functioning insulin feeds them quickly in normal folks, is several 
hours, some times the next day getting replenished for the diabetic even 
if the glucose is north of 200, the conversion chemistry just is not 
there.  But its something I have been living with for 30-35 years and I 
still have both feet, unusual in itself. I must be doing something 
right, not that I am complaining mind you. ;-)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Jon Elson
On 04/10/2015 12:14 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Greetings all;

 I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a sump
 dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had north of
 3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the battle.


I can't help with the G-code, I know the mill operations better.

But, I had a leaky crack in my basement, and used the LCR 
(Liquid concrete repair) kit sold
through the internet for under $80 delivered.  I only used 
half the kit, as it was almost a hairline crack.  It has 
been over a full year, now, and NOT a DROP of leakage.  It 
used to make lakes on the basement floor.  So, I highly 
recommend this stuff.
We have had several major downpours since I made the fix, 
and it has held.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Gene Heskett


On Friday 10 April 2015 21:44:41 Jon Elson wrote:
 On 04/10/2015 12:14 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings all;
 
  I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a
  sump dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had
  north of 3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the
  battle.

 I can't help with the G-code, I know the mill operations better.

 But, I had a leaky crack in my basement, and used the LCR
 (Liquid concrete repair) kit sold
 through the internet for under $80 delivered.  I only used
 half the kit, as it was almost a hairline crack.  It has
 been over a full year, now, and NOT a DROP of leakage.  It
 used to make lakes on the basement floor.  So, I highly
 recommend this stuff.
 We have had several major downpours since I made the fix,
 and it has held.

 Jon

My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully 
washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe 
what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface was 
given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a clue if 
it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings in '74 when 
the place was built.

I any event, hatite is quite famous for being able to pee on one side of 
it, and by the time you can zip up and walk to the other side, the other 
side WILL be wet.  Shifting ground with the seasons, and on a front wall 
where we had planted some Burning Bush that would, if not trimmed to 
about 6 feet annually by moi, be 12 feet or more high by now, and I 
suspect its roots, only 20 or so from the wall are the reason the wall 
is bowed in about 3/4 with a nice crack about 1/8 wide that on the 
outside would be about 30 down.  We are aiming to get rid of them, and 
given what I know now, I doubt if we'll replace them on our watch.

Similar crack, but 2 feet lower on the back wall.  But there, the BoxWood 
is around 11 feet away, with the intervening area being covered with a 
very poorly built back deck so there isn't a lot of vegetation there for 
most of that run of decking.

However, I am not planning on spending the 40 large it would take to pick 
the house up and set it aside while all that is knocked out and rebuilt 
a foot higher just so we actually had room for a pool cue in the 
basement where the regulation sized pool table has fallen into disuse. 
To recast the walls in 5000lb mix 16 thick would sure be nice, it would 
be truly a fortress, but it will outlast us easily regardless.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-10 Thread Jon Elson
On 04/10/2015 09:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:


 My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
 washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
 what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface was
 given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a clue if
 it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings in '74 when
 the place was built.
Yes, my previous place had some kind of clay tile blocks for 
the foundation, built in the 1930's,
apparently.  We'd get fountains of water pouring in from 
several places, about 2-3 feet above the floor, running 
about as hard as a garden hose, when we had a strong 
downpour.  The fix was to move - giving the buyer full 
disclosure in writing.  I was amazed somebody was willing to 
buy the place, but I wanted to be RID of the place.

The new place (we've been here 26 years on May 1st)  has 
really good concrete, but there was a crack on one of the 
long walls.  It must have gotten wide enough at the top to 
tear the waterproofing and let water into the crack.  The 
LCR stuff fixed it the first time.  But, it is for fairly 
narrow cracks.  For big holes and whatnot, you might fashion 
plugs and then seal them with PC-7 epoxy in the red and 
black metal cans.  Relatively inexpensive bulk epoxy, and I 
think if installed when the wall is dry, it will hold water 
after curing.

Jon

Jon

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