Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

Thanks, Thomas.  Very good answer and write up.


From: Thomas Keenan <tnan...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2016 9:08 PM
To: ROBERT; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: paul dove
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I found my old installation notes for the ZEVA adapter -

When I received the Electron Ford Escort from the original owner, none of the 
gauges did anything (they were all dead - just sat there at the lowest 
reading).  I found a business in Australia that made an adapter to turn the 
tachometer into an amp meter, and the ‘fuel’ gauge into a ‘percent remaining’ 
gauge.  The temperature gauge is not connected to the ZEVA adapter, it is wired 
in the same fashion as the original ICE engine using an OEM temp sending unit.

89 Ford Escort IVR (instrument voltage regulator) is a bi-metal type that 
provides an average pulsating value of +5.0 volts to the instrument cluster.  
Ground is frame ground.  Replaced with a LM7405 (5V, 1A) solid state regulator. 
 Fits inside the old bi-metal can.  Now, instead of the ‘wagging finger’ caused 
the old bi-metal IVR constant voltage fluctuations, the needles are fairly 
solid.  There is a slight movement downwards (about 1/8 scale) when I turn on 
the headlights.  Might have something to do with the instrument lights drawing 
power across the single instrument cluster ground wire, which depresses all 
instrument cluster voltages.

At any rate, here are a couple of important numbers -

‘Fuel Gauge’ - 10 ohms full, 75 ohms empty.

Temperature gauge - 73 ohms cold, 10 ohms hot. (has nothing to do with the ZEVA 
adaptor - I just wanted to have the gauge do something instead of sitting there 
dead, so I used the OEM temperature sender and attached it to the motor case.  
After about 15 miles or so, the motor warms up enough to bring the needle just 
into the ’normal’ range (about 115f or so).

Make sure you are wiring correctly.  The small connector on ZEVA circuit board 
can be connected backwards.  When connected incorrectly (pin 4 where pin 1 
should be) the gauges start to do something, but then the entire system loses 
power.  Acts like it was working when miswired, at least for a short while.  I 
discovered the problem was in interpreting the instructions.  Although the 
installation leaflet was very clear as to which pins were #1, #2, etc. the 
small plastic connector plug was not labeled the same way.  The leaflet has #1 
on the right, but the plastic connector has a #1 on the -left-.

The tachometer can be set for various resolutions (‘8 cylinder’, ‘6 cylinder’, 
and ‘4 cylinder’).  I have the Electron Ford Escort set at ‘8 cylinder’ go get 
a bit more resolution from the Ammeter (ex-tachometer). In 8-cylinder mode, 
1000 RPM = 50 amps.  At the max my controller puts out (about 350 amps) the 
‘RPM’ falls nicely in the yellow zone for the original ICE (7,000 RPM).   If I 
wanted to have a more direct 1:1000, I could set it for 4-cylinder mode, and 
1000 RPM would be 100 amps.

Again, this is how it works on a 1989 Ford Escort conversion.  Newer vehicles 
may use a different instrument cluster setup.

Tom Keenan

On Oct 27, 2016, at 10:03 AM, ROBERT via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>> wrote:

Paul, I would like to see the details.  Did you attached a temp sending unit to 
the motor?   It may help to determine the signal type and level needed by the 
ZEVA.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org>> on 
behalf of paul dove via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 4:30 AM
To: Tom Keenan; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I did this on my Celica. I can dig up the details if you want them.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Tom Keenan via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>> wrote:

I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.

Tom Keenan

On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>> wrote:

Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
if it is too light...
You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
the easiest is a PWM controlled 

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Thomas Keenan via EV]

I found my old installation notes for the ZEVA adapter -

When I received the Electron Ford Escort from the original owner, none of the 
gauges did anything (they were all dead - just sat there at the lowest 
reading).  I found a business in Australia that made an adapter to turn the 
tachometer into an amp meter, and the ‘fuel’ gauge into a ‘percent remaining’ 
gauge.  The temperature gauge is not connected to the ZEVA adapter, it is wired 
in the same fashion as the original ICE engine using an OEM temp sending unit. 

89 Ford Escort IVR (instrument voltage regulator) is a bi-metal type that 
provides an average pulsating value of +5.0 volts to the instrument cluster.  
Ground is frame ground.  Replaced with a LM7405 (5V, 1A) solid state regulator. 
 Fits inside the old bi-metal can.  Now, instead of the ‘wagging finger’ caused 
the old bi-metal IVR constant voltage fluctuations, the needles are fairly 
solid.  There is a slight movement downwards (about 1/8 scale) when I turn on 
the headlights.  Might have something to do with the instrument lights drawing 
power across the single instrument cluster ground wire, which depresses all 
instrument cluster voltages.

At any rate, here are a couple of important numbers -

‘Fuel Gauge’ - 10 ohms full, 75 ohms empty.

Temperature gauge - 73 ohms cold, 10 ohms hot. (has nothing to do with the ZEVA 
adaptor - I just wanted to have the gauge do something instead of sitting there 
dead, so I used the OEM temperature sender and attached it to the motor case.  
After about 15 miles or so, the motor warms up enough to bring the needle just 
into the ’normal’ range (about 115f or so).

Make sure you are wiring correctly.  The small connector on ZEVA circuit board 
can be connected backwards.  When connected incorrectly (pin 4 where pin 1 
should be) the gauges start to do something, but then the entire system loses 
power.  Acts like it was working when miswired, at least for a short while.  I 
discovered the problem was in interpreting the instructions.  Although the 
installation leaflet was very clear as to which pins were #1, #2, etc. the 
small plastic connector plug was not labeled the same way.  The leaflet has #1 
on the right, but the plastic connector has a #1 on the -left-.

The tachometer can be set for various resolutions (‘8 cylinder’, ‘6 cylinder’, 
and ‘4 cylinder’).  I have the Electron Ford Escort set at ‘8 cylinder’ go get 
a bit more resolution from the Ammeter (ex-tachometer). In 8-cylinder mode, 
1000 RPM = 50 amps.  At the max my controller puts out (about 350 amps) the 
‘RPM’ falls nicely in the yellow zone for the original ICE (7,000 RPM).   If I 
wanted to have a more direct 1:1000, I could set it for 4-cylinder mode, and 
1000 RPM would be 100 amps.

Again, this is how it works on a 1989 Ford Escort conversion.  Newer vehicles 
may use a different instrument cluster setup.

Tom Keenan

> On Oct 27, 2016, at 10:03 AM, ROBERT via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> 
> Paul, I would like to see the details.  Did you attached a temp sending unit 
> to the motor?   It may help to determine the signal type and level needed by 
> the ZEVA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org <mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org>> on 
> behalf of paul dove via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>>
> Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 4:30 AM
> To: Tom Keenan; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> I did this on my Celica. I can dig up the details if you want them.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Tom Keenan via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 
>> 7805 (if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the 
>> temperature gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor 
>> case). Works fine with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.
>> 
>> Tom Keenan
>> 
>>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
>>> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
>>> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
>>> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
>>> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
>>> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
>>> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
>>> if it is too light...
>>> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
>>> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle c

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

Paul, I would like to see the details.  Did you attached a temp sending unit to 
the motor?   It may help to determine the signal type and level needed by the 
ZEVA.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of paul dove via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 4:30 AM
To: Tom Keenan; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I did this on my Celica. I can dig up the details if you want them.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Tom Keenan via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>
> I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
> (if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
> gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
> with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.
>
> Tom Keenan
>
>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
>> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
>> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
>> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
>> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
>> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
>> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
>> if it is too light...
>> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
>> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
>> the position of the needle.
>> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
>> below
>> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
>> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
>>
>> Success!
>>
>> Cor van de Water
>> Chief Scientist
>> Proxim Wireless
>>
>> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water
>> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info
>>
>> http://www.proxim.com
Proxim - Wireless Broadband, Backhaul Solutions and Access 
...<http://www.proxim.com/>
www.proxim.com
Proxim Wireless offers licensed and unlicensed point to point, backhaul, 
bridge, point to multipoint, wireless broadband and wireless access points.


>>
>> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
>> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
>> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
>> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
>> this message is prohibited.
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
>> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>>
>> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
>> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
>> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
>> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
>> have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
>> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
>> the devices.
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
>> <ev@lists.evdl.org>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
>> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>>
>>
>> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
>> the tank
>> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
>>
>> Bill
>> ___
>> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
>> EV -- Electric Vehicle Discussion List - lists.evdl.org
>> ...<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org>
>> lists.evdl.org
>> The Electric Vehicle Discussion List is a forum for discussing the
>> current state of the art and future direction of electric vehicles
>> (EVs). We define an EV as a ...
>>
>>
>> Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/
>> EVDL EV News Archive - Electric Vehicle Discussi

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[paul dove via EV]

I did this on my Celica. I can dig up the details if you want them.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Tom Keenan via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> 
> I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
> (if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
> gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
> with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges. 
> 
> Tom Keenan
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
>> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
>> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
>> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
>> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
>> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
>> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
>> if it is too light...
>> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
>> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
>> the position of the needle. 
>> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
>> below
>> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
>> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
>> 
>> Success!
>> 
>> Cor van de Water 
>> Chief Scientist 
>> Proxim Wireless 
>> 
>> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
>> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 
>> 
>> http://www.proxim.com
>> 
>> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
>> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
>> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
>> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
>> this message is prohibited.
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
>> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>> 
>> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
>> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
>> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
>> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
>> have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
>> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
>> the devices.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
>> <ev@lists.evdl.org>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
>> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>> 
>> 
>> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
>> the tank
>> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
>> 
>> Bill
>> ___
>> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
>> EV -- Electric Vehicle Discussion List - lists.evdl.org
>> ...<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org>
>> lists.evdl.org
>> The Electric Vehicle Discussion List is a forum for discussing the
>> current state of the art and future direction of electric vehicles
>> (EVs). We define an EV as a ...
>> 
>> 
>> Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/
>> EVDL EV News Archive - Electric Vehicle Discussion
>> List<http://evdl.org/evln/>
>> evdl.org
>> EVLN - EV News Archive Edited by Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter: EVLN: home |
>> help | archive | news | privacy policy | terms of service
>> 
>> 
>> Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA
>> (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
>> [https://s1.yimg.com/dh/ap/default/130909/y_200_a.png]<http://groups.yah
>> oo.com/group/NEDRA>
>> 
>> Yahoo! Groups<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>
>> groups.yahoo.com
>> /
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scr

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Bill Dube via EV]

It all made sense to me Robert.
The bi-metal instrument regulator makes 5 volts and a 7805 makes 5 volts.
The motor case gets hot a bit later than the windings, but it generally 
takes a while to fry the windings, so knowing the motor case temperature 
is not perfect, but quite useful.


Bill D.


On 10/26/2016 11:11 PM, ROBERT via EV wrote:

I give up.  The statement "I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid 
state 7805 " does not make sense.  A voltage regulator is used with an alternator or a 
generator.  In addition, a bi-metal regulator is an old style regulator.  Also, the 7805 is an IC 
voltage chip that output 5VDC (i.e. 05).  So you replaced a 12VDC regulator with a 5VDC source ... 
I do not think so.  The statement "(I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case) 
Works fine with the ZEVA unit"  The ZEVA unit is for SOC and amp measurement and you used a 
temp sending unit.  In addition, why did you want to measure the temperature of the motor case?  By 
the time the case gets hot, the motor windings are fried. You use RTDs embedded in the motor 
windings to measure the temperature of an electric motor for protect.  I give up.


From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Tom Keenan via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 5:59 PM
To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.

Tom Keenan


On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:

Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
if it is too light...
You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
the position of the needle.
No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
below
about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.

Success!

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless

office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info

http://www.proxim.com

Proxim - Wireless Broadband, Backhaul Solutions and Access 
...<http://www.proxim.com/>
www.proxim.com
Proxim Wireless offers licensed and unlicensed point to point, backhaul, 
bridge, point to multipoint, wireless broadband and wireless access points.



This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
this message is prohibited.


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
the devices.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone


The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
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...<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org>
lists.evdl.org
The Electric Vehicle Discussion List is a forum for discussing the
current state of the art and future direction of elec

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

I give up.  The statement "I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage 
regulator' with a solid state 7805 " does not make sense.  A voltage regulator 
is used with an alternator or a generator.  In addition, a bi-metal regulator 
is an old style regulator.  Also, the 7805 is an IC voltage chip that output 
5VDC (i.e. 05).  So you replaced a 12VDC regulator with a 5VDC source ... I do 
not think so.  The statement "(I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the 
motor case) Works fine with the ZEVA unit"  The ZEVA unit is for SOC and amp 
measurement and you used a temp sending unit.  In addition, why did you want to 
measure the temperature of the motor case?  By the time the case gets hot, the 
motor windings are fried. You use RTDs embedded in the motor windings to 
measure the temperature of an electric motor for protect.  I give up.


From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Tom Keenan via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 5:59 PM
To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.

Tom Keenan

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
> wrote:
>
> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
> if it is too light...
> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
> the position of the needle.
> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
> below
> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
>
> Success!
>
> Cor van de Water
> Chief Scientist
> Proxim Wireless
>
> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info
>
> http://www.proxim.com
Proxim - Wireless Broadband, Backhaul Solutions and Access 
...<http://www.proxim.com/>
www.proxim.com
Proxim Wireless offers licensed and unlicensed point to point, backhaul, 
bridge, point to multipoint, wireless broadband and wireless access points.


>
> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
> this message is prohibited.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>
> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
> have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
> the devices.
>
>
>
> ____________
> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
> <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>
>
> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
> the tank
> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
>
> Bill
> ___
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> The Electric Vehicle Discussion List is a forum for discussing the
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Tom Keenan via EV]

I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges. 

Tom Keenan

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
> wrote:
> 
> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
> if it is too light...
> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
> the position of the needle. 
> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
> below
> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
> 
> Success!
> 
> Cor van de Water 
> Chief Scientist 
> Proxim Wireless 
> 
> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 
> 
> http://www.proxim.com
> 
> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
> this message is prohibited.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
> have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
> the devices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
> <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> 
> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
> the tank
> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
> 
> Bill
> ___
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> The Electric Vehicle Discussion List is a forum for discussing the
> current state of the art and future direction of electric vehicles
> (EVs). We define an EV as a ...
> 
> 
> Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/
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> List<http://evdl.org/evln/>
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> help | archive | news | privacy policy | terms of service
> 
> 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
if it is too light...
You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
the position of the needle. 
No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
below
about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.

Success!

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
this message is prohibited.


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
the devices.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone


The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank sensor?  
Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the PCM, and the PCM 
output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure out the PCM signal type 
or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you have at present  a gauge and 
Amp transmitter and determine their signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get 
the spec or you may damage the devices.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone


The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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EV as a ...


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archive | news | privacy policy | terms of service


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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Bill Collins via EV]

The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

Never use a sledge hammer when a tack hammer will work.  Your problem is a 
simple interface problem.  The AutoblockAmp outputs a signal to drive a gauge.  
Look at the specifications for the AutoblockAmp and determine the type of 
output signal (resistance, voltage, etc.) and the level of the signal (22 - 240 
Ohm, 0 - 5VDC, etc.).  Another method is to connect a multi-meter from the 
AutoblockAmp signal output pin and  the negative/ground pin on the 
AutoblockAmp.  I would try the AC voltage scale first (it is the safest 
selection) then I would try the DC scale, and then the resistance scale.  If 
the output is a PWM signal, the meter will fluctuate.  I like to use an analog 
meter so that I can see the minimum and maximum needle movement.  After you 
determine the type and level of signal that the AutoblockAmp outputs then 
determine the input that the fuel gauge requires.  The specification for the 
fuel gauge should be available from Ford or search the web or call the local 
Ford de
 aler and ask a mechanics.  After you get this info, if necessary, you can 
easily replace the fuel meter with a compatible meter.  Why design a custom 
interface using a microcontroller for such a simple problem?  From reading the 
info on the AutoblockAmp from the web, it appears that your AutoblockAmp is an 
older model that is not programmable?  If it is programmable, the type of 
output signal may be programmable.  If you want to discuss the more, my e-mail 
is bhensle...@msn.com.




From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Rick Beebe via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 8:46 AM
Cc: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

I actually have a Zeva sitting on my workbench. It had the same problem. I 
replaced it with the AutoblockAMP in large part because of the programmability 
of the latter plus the packaging is much more industrial.

Thanks Bill. I'm actually quite versed in Arduinos. I built a battery box heat 
controller using a Pro Mini, a relay board and some temperature probes. I have 
an ISAScale high precision shunt with CANBus output that I'm playing with that 
I'll use an Arduino to read and to display SOC, Amps, etc on a small LCD that 
I'll imbed in the dash. I actually do have that setup driving a fuel gauge. I 
was resisting going that route for this just because I also have to find a 
place to put it, get an appropriate power supply, etc. But it may be the best 
option.

--Rick

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:33 AM, Tom Keenan <tnan...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge 
> driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges.
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144
[http://www.evwest.com/catalog/images/thumbs/def/display/products/zeva-fuel-gauge-driver-plus-4.jpg]<http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144>

ZEVA Fuel Gauge Driver Plus, EV West - Electric Vehicle 
...<http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144>
www.evwest.com
This device displays the state of charge of your EV's battery pack on the 
factory fuel gauge in your dash. The FGD+ is also able to drive your factory ...


> You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you 
> have, just made in Australia.
> Tom Keenan
>
>> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>>
>> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
[http://www.evalbum.com/imgm.php?n=4674a.jpg=250=140]<http://evalbum.com/4674>

Rick's 1998 Ford Ranger - evalbum.com<http://evalbum.com/4674>
evalbum.com
Owner: Rick Beebe: Location: Hamden, Connecticut US map: Email: Vehicle: 1998 
Ford Ranger XLT Supercab (White) extended cab. 6' bed. 5 speed manual. Bed lift 
...


>> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
>> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
>> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
>> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
>> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
>> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
>> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
>> the fuel gauge to show SOC.
>>
>> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
>> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
>> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
>> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
>> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
>> conversion. The 

Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Rick Beebe via EV]

I actually have a Zeva sitting on my workbench. It had the same problem. I 
replaced it with the AutoblockAMP in large part because of the programmability 
of the latter plus the packaging is much more industrial.

Thanks Bill. I'm actually quite versed in Arduinos. I built a battery box heat 
controller using a Pro Mini, a relay board and some temperature probes. I have 
an ISAScale high precision shunt with CANBus output that I'm playing with that 
I'll use an Arduino to read and to display SOC, Amps, etc on a small LCD that 
I'll imbed in the dash. I actually do have that setup driving a fuel gauge. I 
was resisting going that route for this just because I also have to find a 
place to put it, get an appropriate power supply, etc. But it may be the best 
option.

--Rick

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:33 AM, Tom Keenan  wrote:
> 
> I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge 
> driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144
> You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you 
> have, just made in Australia. 
> Tom Keenan
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
>> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
>> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
>> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
>> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
>> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
>> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
>> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
>> the fuel gauge to show SOC.
>> 
>> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
>> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
>> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
>> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
>> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
>> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
>> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
>> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
>> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.
>> 
>> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
>> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
>> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
>> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
>> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
>> Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
>> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
>> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
>> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
>> first quarter of the SOC.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Tom Keenan via EV]

I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge 
driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. 
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144
You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you have, 
just made in Australia. 
Tom Keenan

> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
> the fuel gauge to show SOC.
> 
> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.
> 
> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
> Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
> first quarter of the SOC.
> 
> 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Bill Dube via EV]

You're going to roll your eyes when I suggest this, but you will thank 
me later when you do this simple project using one:


Run the gauge with an Arduino. The version you will need costs maybe $20 
and will do this job simply and easily.


Once you get a single project working using an Ardunio, (which will take 
a bit of work on your part at first) you will be amazed how easy it is 
to use and how many little projects will be simplified by using one.


1) Get this book and kit: https://www.sparkfun.com/sylviakit (Book is 
written by a 12 year old girl.)

2) Read the book.
3) Do the simple programs and experiments with the kit that the book 
tells you, step-by-step, _exactly_ how to do. (This book assumes you 
know _nothing._)
4) Write a simple custom program for the board (or look up a program for 
the board on line and simply download it) that solves this particular 
problem.

5) Install the board in your car, connect it up, and you are done.

You can get a much smaller, cheaper, specialized Arduino to do this 
specific job, but the more generic Arduino "Uno" in the kit will work.


There are Arduino's _everywhere_. For example, our Taz 5 3D printer that 
has all sorts of things happening at once, like three axis motion 
control, two temperature controls, a variable speed fan, a digital 
display, a digital knob that controls a menu on the display, reads 
commands from a computer via USB or runs commands from an SD card, plus 
things I have forgotten, runs it all _simultaneously_ on an Arduino 
board that costs about $80.


Trust me, if you do this you will be astounded at how simple the whole 
thing has become and will never look back.


Bill Dube'





On 10/25/2016 2:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV wrote:

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
the fuel gauge to show SOC.

I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.

I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
first quarter of the SOC.

So I'm looking for ideas. Any thoughts?

--Rick

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[EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Rick Beebe via EV]

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
the fuel gauge to show SOC.

I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.

I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
first quarter of the SOC.

So I'm looking for ideas. Any thoughts?

--Rick

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