Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread mythmaker18

So, let me get this straight (forgive my ignorance. I'm used to the
plug-n-play of the beige processor upgrades that had their own built-
in heatsinks). If I decide to upgrade the processor in my Quicksilver
to a later quicksilver processor (for example, putting a used gual
1GHz in a QS933 motherboard), do I have to apply anything to the two
processors, since the heat sink and processor boards would be two
separated pieces (i.e. you have to take the heat sink off just to
get the processor out of the machine)?

I wouldn't want to take a chance on frying a precious upgrade!

Andy

On Mar 13, 2:11 am, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:
 PeterH wrote:

  On Mar 12, 2009, at 7:14 PM, technophobic_...@comcast.net wrote:

  Don't put ANY grease near your processor!

  A grease is simply solids within an oily carrier.

  Electronics grade silicone thermally conductive grease,
  Thermalcote, or equal, is fine.

  Arctic Silver claims to be non-conductive, but it also comes with a
  detailed procedure for application to avoid foul-ups due to over-
  application, which procedures are not necessary with a silicone product.

  Arctic Silver is also a grease, using the conventional definition
  of the term.

 If the Heatsink / Processor combo is supposed to use grease then
 conductivity isn't an issue, you assume the CPU and heatsink will
 connect electrically.  If you don't want them to connect electrically
 you use an insulating spacer like a mica insulator.

 --
 Clark Martin
 Redwood City, CA, USA
 Macintosh / Internet Consulting

 I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway
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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread nestamicky


mythmaker18 wrote:
 So, let me get this straight (forgive my ignorance. I'm used to the
 plug-n-play of the beige processor upgrades that had their own built-
 in heatsinks). If I decide to upgrade the processor in my Quicksilver
 to a later quicksilver processor (for example, putting a used gual
 1GHz in a QS933 motherboard), do I have to apply anything to the two
 processors, since the heat sink and processor boards would be two
 separated pieces (i.e. you have to take the heat sink off just to
 get the processor out of the machine)?

 I wouldn't want to take a chance on frying a precious upgrade!

 Andy
   
If and whenever the heatsink comes away from the processor itself; you 
add thermal grease before installing both together for use.
 On Mar 13, 2:11 am, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:
   
 PeterH wrote:

 
 On Mar 12, 2009, at 7:14 PM, technophobic_...@comcast.net wrote:
   
 Don't put ANY grease near your processor!
 
 A grease is simply solids within an oily carrier.
   
 Electronics grade silicone thermally conductive grease,
 Thermalcote, or equal, is fine.
   
 Arctic Silver claims to be non-conductive, but it also comes with a
 detailed procedure for application to avoid foul-ups due to over-
 application, which procedures are not necessary with a silicone product.
   
 Arctic Silver is also a grease, using the conventional definition
 of the term.
   
 If the Heatsink / Processor combo is supposed to use grease then
 conductivity isn't an issue, you assume the CPU and heatsink will
 connect electrically.  If you don't want them to connect electrically
 you use an insulating spacer like a mica insulator.

 --
 Clark Martin
 Redwood City, CA, USA
 Macintosh / Internet Consulting

 I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway
 
 
   

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread dc

I'm not a big fan of the sticky black goop Apple uses for thermal
compound. When I swap processors, which is pretty frequent, I always
replace it with a better compound. First I remove the black stuff with
a plastic (not metal- don't scratch the heatsink or CPU) scraper,
scrub it off with acetone (or nail polish remover) and then wipe it
with rubbing alcohol. I then apply Arctic Silver Ceramique; it's non-
conductive and seems to do a very good job transferring the heat from
the CPU t the heatsink. I haven't fried any CPUs yet.

On Mar 13, 9:36 am, mythmaker18 mythmake...@yahoo.com wrote:
 So, let me get this straight (forgive my ignorance. I'm used to the
 plug-n-play of the beige processor upgrades that had their own built-
 in heatsinks). If I decide to upgrade the processor in my Quicksilver
 to a later quicksilver processor (for example, putting a used gual
 1GHz in a QS933 motherboard), do I have to apply anything to the two
 processors, since the heat sink and processor boards would be two
 separated pieces (i.e. you have to take the heat sink off just to
 get the processor out of the machine)?

 I wouldn't want to take a chance on frying a precious upgrade!

 Andy

 On Mar 13, 2:11 am, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:



  PeterH wrote:

   On Mar 12, 2009, at 7:14 PM, technophobic_...@comcast.net wrote:

   Don't put ANY grease near your processor!

   A grease is simply solids within an oily carrier.

   Electronics grade silicone thermally conductive grease,
   Thermalcote, or equal, is fine.

   Arctic Silver claims to be non-conductive, but it also comes with a
   detailed procedure for application to avoid foul-ups due to over-
   application, which procedures are not necessary with a silicone product.

   Arctic Silver is also a grease, using the conventional definition
   of the term.

  If the Heatsink / Processor combo is supposed to use grease then
  conductivity isn't an issue, you assume the CPU and heatsink will
  connect electrically.  If you don't want them to connect electrically
  you use an insulating spacer like a mica insulator.

  --
  Clark Martin
  Redwood City, CA, USA
  Macintosh / Internet Consulting

  I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway
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Re: adding network printer

2009-03-13 Thread nestamicky

This may not be your server, but a lot of people have benefited from 
this. Goodluck. Perhaps you'd get more help if you name your sever and 
model here:
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20060404021600193

Steve R wrote:
 Short question: What are the settings in Print  Fax for adding a USB 
 printer on a print server?


 Longer explanation: Apple Help and google have been only somewhat 
 helpful. So far, 10.5.6 + USB EpsonR220 (network compatible according 
 to Epson's site) and NAS DNS-323 printer server with IP 192.168.0.125.

 The DLink web interface for the NAS/print server sees the Epson 
 printer no matter which settings are in 10.5.6 Print  Fax. Test 
 prints on the Epson work.


 System Preferences/Print  Fax/Add Printer

 I've tried various options under IP and More Printers, none of which 
 work and most giving me a green light in the Print  Fax window. I've 
 chosen the Epson Stylus Photo R220 Gutenprint v5.1.3 driver when the 
 generic was working. But...

 The queue always Stopped itself and the Printer Paused itself. One 
 message showed accessing IP address port 631 so I opened that in the 
 router. Still no print.

 Mention was made on one site that updating the firmware of the NAS 
 (which I have done) will erase the hidden print queue folder .lpd . 
 One solution offered by someone using Tiger was to create a top level 
 directory on Volume_1, and call it .lpd but trying to do that gets me 
 a Reprimand for trying. I tried creating lpd and renaming, same slap 
 on the wrist.

 So what are the settings for adding a USB printer on a print server?

 Steve R

 
   

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread insightinmind

On Mar 13, 2009, at 9:40 AM, nestamicky wrote:



 mythmaker18 wrote:

 So, let me get this straight (forgive my ignorance. I'm used to the
 plug-n-play of the beige processor upgrades that had their own  
 built-
 in heatsinks). If I decide to upgrade the processor in my Quicksilver
 to a later quicksilver processor (for example, putting a used gual
 1GHz in a QS933 motherboard), do I have to apply anything to the two
 processors, since the heat sink and processor boards would be two
 separated pieces (i.e. you have to take the heat sink off just to
 get the processor out of the machine)?

 I wouldn't want to take a chance on frying a precious upgrade!

 Andy

 If and whenever the heatsink comes away from the processor itself;  
 you add thermal grease before installing both together for use.

In a similar vein ...

I have a Dual 1GHz QS 2002 ... seems to be working fine ... just  
concerned about age.

Would it be advisable to go on and remove the heatsink(s), clean the  
surfaces, and re-apply thermal grease? Sort of preventive maintenance?

Or if it ain't broke ... don't fix it apply?

Bill Connelly
artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio
myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio




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Re: adding network printer

2009-03-13 Thread Steve R

Thanks! Great info with a few things different from what I had 
previously tried. Will give it a go this weekend, after I ensure 
enough beer in the house to mellow out my frustration, just in case 
;-)

At 6:52 AM -0700 3/13/09, nestamicky posted:
  This may not be your server, but a lot of people have benefited from
  this. Goodluck. Perhaps you'd get more help if you name your sever and
  model here:
  http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20060404021600193

  Steve R wrote:
  Short question: What are the settings in Print  Fax for adding a USB
  printer on a print server?


  Longer explanation: Apple Help and google have been only somewhat
  helpful. So far, 10.5.6 + USB EpsonR220 (network compatible according
  to Epson's site) and NAS DNS-323 printer server with IP 192.168.0.125.

  The DLink web interface for the NAS/print server sees the Epson
  printer no matter which settings are in 10.5.6 Print  Fax. Test
  prints on the Epson work.


  System Preferences/Print  Fax/Add Printer

  I've tried various options under IP and More Printers, none of which
  work and most giving me a green light in the Print  Fax window. I've
  chosen the Epson Stylus Photo R220 Gutenprint v5.1.3 driver when the
  generic was working. But...

  The queue always Stopped itself and the Printer Paused itself. One
  message showed accessing IP address port 631 so I opened that in the
  router. Still no print.

  Mention was made on one site that updating the firmware of the NAS
  (which I have done) will erase the hidden print queue folder .lpd .
  One solution offered by someone using Tiger was to create a top level
  directory on Volume_1, and call it .lpd but trying to do that gets me
  a Reprimand for trying. I tried creating lpd and renaming, same slap
  on the wrist.

  So what are the settings for adding a USB printer on a print server?

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Re: adding network printer

2009-03-13 Thread nestamicky
Glad I could help; if it works. If it does not, give me a clear 
understanding of your network setup and I may be able to help ya!

Steve R wrote:
 Thanks! Great info with a few things different from what I had 
 previously tried. Will give it a go this weekend, after I ensure 
 enough beer in the house to mellow out my frustration, just in case 
 ;-)

 At 6:52 AM -0700 3/13/09, nestamicky posted:
   
  This may not be your server, but a lot of people have benefited from
  this. Goodluck. Perhaps you'd get more help if you name your sever and
  model here:
  http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20060404021600193

  Steve R wrote:
 
  Short question: What are the settings in Print  Fax for adding a USB
  printer on a print server?


  Longer explanation: Apple Help and google have been only somewhat
  helpful. So far, 10.5.6 + USB EpsonR220 (network compatible according
  to Epson's site) and NAS DNS-323 printer server with IP 192.168.0.125.

  The DLink web interface for the NAS/print server sees the Epson
  printer no matter which settings are in 10.5.6 Print  Fax. Test
  prints on the Epson work.


  System Preferences/Print  Fax/Add Printer

  I've tried various options under IP and More Printers, none of which
  work and most giving me a green light in the Print  Fax window. I've
  chosen the Epson Stylus Photo R220 Gutenprint v5.1.3 driver when the
  generic was working. But...

  The queue always Stopped itself and the Printer Paused itself. One
  message showed accessing IP address port 631 so I opened that in the
  router. Still no print.

  Mention was made on one site that updating the firmware of the NAS
  (which I have done) will erase the hidden print queue folder .lpd .
  One solution offered by someone using Tiger was to create a top level
  directory on Volume_1, and call it .lpd but trying to do that gets me
  a Reprimand for trying. I tried creating lpd and renaming, same slap
  on the wrist.

  So what are the settings for adding a USB printer on a print server?
   

 
   

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread PeterH


On Mar 13, 2009, at 6:54 AM, insightinmind wrote:

 I have a Dual 1GHz QS 2002 ... seems to be working fine ... just  
 concerned about age.

 Would it be advisable to go on and remove the heatsink(s), clean  
 the surfaces, and re-apply thermal grease? Sort of preventive  
 maintenance?


In the specific cases of the Gig-E, DA, QS and similar, removing the  
processor involves removing the heatsink.

In fact, the heatsink may be removed without removing the processor.

Apple employed a special heat transfer tape on these models. The tape  
sticks to the underside of the heatsink, and the functional side of  
the tape comes into contact with the processor. The heat transfer  
material on the functional side of the tape is essentially single-use.

Carefully cleaning both the tape and the processor, and then applying  
an appropriate heat transfer substance (grease/paste/whatever) is  
required if a replacement tape is not available.

Those self-stick tapes are occasionally available. About a dollar or  
so apiece.

Me, I just clean the surfaces appropriately and then apply silicone  
thermal grease.



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Safari 4 - Refresh?

2009-03-13 Thread Steve R

Where did the Refresh button go? I'm not even finding it under 
Customise Toolbar?

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Re: Safari 4 - Refresh?

2009-03-13 Thread Dan

At 11:31 AM -0400 3/13/2009, Steve R wrote:
Where did the Refresh button go? I'm not even finding it under 
Customise Toolbar?

The spinning thingy on the right of the address field.

Or (what I did) change the whole thing back to the old set-up, so you 
have the progress bar and the buttons.

- Dan.
-- 
- Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread John Callahan

Isn't heat transfer the issue here???
On Mar 13, 2009, at 2:11 AM, Clark Martin wrote:


 PeterH wrote:

 On Mar 12, 2009, at 7:14 PM, technophobic_...@comcast.net wrote:

 Don't put ANY grease near your processor!

 A grease is simply solids within an oily carrier.

 Electronics grade silicone thermally conductive grease,
 Thermalcote, or equal, is fine.

 Arctic Silver claims to be non-conductive, but it also comes with a
 detailed procedure for application to avoid foul-ups due to over-
 application, which procedures are not necessary with a silicone  
 product.

 Arctic Silver is also a grease, using the conventional definition
 of the term.

 If the Heatsink / Processor combo is supposed to use grease then
 conductivity isn't an issue, you assume the CPU and heatsink will
 connect electrically.  If you don't want them to connect electrically
 you use an insulating spacer like a mica insulator.

 -- 
 Clark Martin
 Redwood City, CA, USA
 Macintosh / Internet Consulting

 I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway

 

John Callahan
jcalla...@stny.rr.com
If there are no dogs in Heaven, when I die I want to go where they  
went.¨
--Will Rogers
extreme positive = (ybya2)


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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread Clark Martin

technophobic_...@comcast.net wrote:
 On 3/12/09, Clark Martin wrote:
 
 If the Heatsink / Processor combo is supposed to use grease then 
 conductivity isn't an issue, you assume the CPU and heatsink will 
 connect electrically.  If you don't want them to connect electrically 
 you use an insulating spacer like a mica insulator.
 
 You're NOT supposed to use grease. You're supposed to use thermally 
 conductive compounds or adhesives. Engineers deliberately distinguish 
 between grease (hydrocarbon/oil based lubricants) and thermal compounds 
 (homogeneous  polymeric organosilicon substances) so that the ignorant 
 don't go to the local auto parts store, pick up a tube of grease, and 
 apply it to their computers. An unmentioned someone is being bull-headed 
 in this matter. :-) (Remember, ignorance isn't a sin. It merely means 
 one hasn't been exposed to the issue.) See:
   http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
 
 As discharging the processor's heat is the goal, thermal conductivity is 
 critical. Thermal compounds and adhesives are intentionally designed to 
 conduct heat and to be electrically non-conductive. Mica would satisfy 
 the electrical requirement but grossly fail to sufficiently conduct heat.

Mica is commonly used as an electrical insulator and thermal conductor 
in in electronics.  It seems to fit both requirements well enough.  No, 
it's not a great thermal conductor but most things that are electrical 
insulators aren't.  That is why it is kept very thin.


do a web search on thermal grease
http://www.google.com/search?client=safarirls=en-usq=thermal+greaseie=UTF-8oe=UTF-8

Most or all refer to a substance for conducting heat in electronics. 
Whether or not grease is the proper term here, it IS one used 
extensively.


-- 
Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread pdimage

On 13/3/09 13:54, insightinmind billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:

 In a similar vein ...
 
 I have a Dual 1GHz QS 2002 ... seems to be working fine ... just concerned
 about age.
 
 Would it be advisable to go on and remove the heatsink(s), clean the surfaces,
 and re-apply thermal grease? Sort of preventive maintenance?
 
 Or if it ain't broke ... don't fix it apply?

I use quite a lot of this stuff - the 'grease' I use is Arctic Silver
Ceramique and the glue is Arctic Silver Alumina Thermal Chipset Adhesive -
the grease is for 'sprung' heatsinks - held with clips like a cpu or pins
and plungers in the case of graphics cards (which is mostly what I use it
for). The glue is for heatsinks/fans with no circuit board fastening and it
sets very hard - so it's not easy to get the heatsink off if you make a
pig's ear of the contact - but an hour in the freezer will make the job
easier.
It's maybe advisable with secondhand graphics cards which run at high
speeds and temps - definitely advisable if you see artifacts of any kind or
experience video problems. I do gpu and memory solder reflows on old
graphics cards with problems and I remove the gpu and memory heatsinks as a
first step so I refurbish the cooling when I replace them - it will often
kill or cure problems which look terminal - I've just fixed two PC Radeon
9700 Pros and one 9800 Pro which all had terminal artifacts (I like to
recycle - call me green) and now they're mac cards - one of the 9700's has
vga out only and one has barely noticeable artifacts - the 9800 is perfect.
Maybe not so advisable with motherboard processors unless they are
running at too high temps and giving problems - a temperature monitor is a
good utility to forewarn of heat problems - but I think there's quite a bit
of latitude with the G4s - not so much with the G5s.
I would say don't do it unless it's necessary - if you've not done it
before there is the usual round of 'learners' mistakes to get through - and
some of those are very very terminal. I have already paid my dues and
terminated untold devices.

Pete



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Re: Safari 4 - Refresh?

2009-03-13 Thread Steve R

At 12:02 PM -0400 3/13/09, Dan posted:
  At 11:31 AM -0400 3/13/2009, Steve R wrote:
Where did the Refresh button go? I'm not even finding it under
Customise Toolbar?

  The spinning thingy on the right of the address field.

  Or (what I did) change the whole thing back to the old set-up, so you
  have the progress bar and the buttons.


I ended up reverting to Safari 3 -- I guess I'm retro at heart :-(

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Heat sink break-in period?

2009-03-13 Thread MacGuy

just replaced my stock mdd heatsink with a copper one, question, is  
there a break-in period and if so, approx. how long? I'm sitting at  
135.6F (57C) and the fans are running at a high rpm with no load on  
the computer to speak of. Jeff

Jeff Engle
Kamiah Idaho 83536

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Re: Heat sink break-in period?

2009-03-13 Thread Bruce Johnson


On Mar 13, 2009, at 3:18 PM, MacGuy wrote:


 just replaced my stock mdd heatsink with a copper one, question, is
 there a break-in period and if so, approx. how long? I'm sitting at
 135.6F (57C) and the fans are running at a high rpm with no load on
 the computer to speak of. Jeff

There should be no 'break in' period. We're not running new rings in a  
cast-iron engine block.

If you run particularly hot after doing something like this, it was  
done wrong: too much/too little thermal grease, the heat sink isn't  
properly seated, or the heat sink isn't actually correct for your  
installation.

Were you overheating before? Why did you replace the heat sink? Are  
you trying to overclock the CPU?

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs



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Can't Delete Mail

2009-03-13 Thread Anne Keller-Smith

Hi ~

I've got an Inbox with mail going back to Feb. 3rd.

I keep deleting it (select, hit Delete Icon) and it keeps reappearing.

I moved it to a mailbox I created called Deleted Mail, but it puts it  
there and then another batch appears back in my Inbox.

If I move the Inbox mail again, I have two copies of the same 387  
emails in the Deleted Mail box. If I delete this mail, it goes, but  
there are still 387 emails in the Inbox.

I checked with my mail server, looked at webmail and this mail is not  
on the remote server.

I went into Preferences and checked, delete copy from server when  
mail is downloaded.

I also checked erase deleted mail on quitting Mail.

Nope. It's there again when I start Mail.

Would it go if I deleted the Inbox .mbox?

Altho there isn't an Inbox .mbox in Mailboxes.

Any ideas?

Also, I did think maybe I should reinstall Mail.

The Drafts box is also not working.

There's no Trash mailbox either. Is there supposed to be one?

Can I do this without doing an entire Archive  Install?

Many thanks for any ideas anyone may have.

P.S.: Aw, gee, it seems to have deleted the mail now!!!

Anne Keller Smith
Down to Earth Web Design

G4 Quicksilver 733mHz Tower
896 MB RAM, 40 GB hard drive, OS 10.4.11

Intel iMac 2.4gHz Core 2 Duo
1GB RAM, 250GB Hard Drive, OS 10.5.5

mailto:earth...@ptd.net
http://www.downtoearthweb.com


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Re: Heat sink break-in period?

2009-03-13 Thread MacGuy


On Mar 13, 2009, at 4:27 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:



 On Mar 13, 2009, at 3:18 PM, MacGuy wrote:


 just replaced my stock mdd heatsink with a copper one, question, is
 there a break-in period and if so, approx. how long? I'm sitting at
 135.6F (57C) and the fans are running at a high rpm with no load on
 the computer to speak of. Jeff

 There should be no 'break in' period. We're not running new rings in a
 cast-iron engine block.

 If you run particularly hot after doing something like this, it was
 done wrong: too much/too little thermal grease, the heat sink isn't
 properly seated, or the heat sink isn't actually correct for your
 installation.

 Were you overheating before? Why did you replace the heat sink? Are
 you trying to overclock the CPU?

I wasn't overheating before or overclock, It's just that the computer  
room/office tends to get a bit warmer than the rest of the house in  
the summer months and rather than spring for an air conditioner, the  
other thing that came to my mind to do was a heat sink swap. Thought  
maybe the copper one (out of a 1.42) might be a little kinder on the  
system. that's all.  Also the thought of picking up a 1.42 upgrade one  
of these days has entered my mind. Jeff

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Re: Thermal grease?

2009-03-13 Thread Wallace Adrian D'Alessio
On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 9:49 AM, dc dbc...@verizon.net wrote:


 I'm not a big fan of the sticky black goop Apple uses for thermal
 compound. When I swap processors, which is pretty frequent, I always
 replace it with a better compound. First I remove the black stuff with
 a plastic (not metal- don't scratch the heatsink or CPU) scraper,
 scrub it off with acetone (or nail polish remover) and then wipe it
 with rubbing alcohol. I then apply Arctic Silver Ceramique; it's non-
 conductive and seems to do a very good job transferring the heat from
 the CPU t the heatsink. I haven't fried any CPUs yet.

 




Overclockers who are set on defeating heat to preserve costly CPUs yet
squeeze extreme clock counts out of them have been known to polish the CPU
and heatsink with ever finer grades of wet or dry paper starting with 1000
grit. And even going to finer grits of polishing compound. Some may even 
lap : the surfaces together with a polishing compound.

Then they apply the thermal paste after all of that.

In theory the more closely the parts surfaces match and the thinner the
paste needed to
make up the difference the faster and therefore the more successful the heat
transfer will be.

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Re: Best G4 powermac??

2009-03-13 Thread tortoise



On Mar 12, 9:32 am, PeterH peterh5...@rattlebrain.com wrote:
 On Mar 12, 2009, at 9:15 AM, jonas ulrich wrote:


  authoring a single-layer DVD from  
 the same source files which exceed the capacity of a single-layer  
 DVD,
I don't understand, you are overfilling it so it fails ?


 1) Dual 1.0 GHz G4 -- 60 minutes [ 10.4.11, 1.5 GB 133 MHz RAM ]

 2) Core 2 Duo E8400 running at 3.6 GHz -- 12.5 minutes (4.8 times as  
 fast) [ 10.5.5, 2 GB 800 MHz RAM ]

 3) Core 2 Quad Q9400 running at 3.2 GHz -- 10 minutes ( 6 times as  
 fast) [ 10.5.6, 2 GB 800 MHz RAM ]

Are you sure this is the cpu rather than the drives ? are (all) the
drives exactly the same ?

 So, if you really want to pump the work through your machine, perhaps  
 you could consider an Intel solution.




 As a practical matter, I still run a DA with a QS 2000 dual 1.0 GHz  
 processor, mainly for Mail.app and for Classic. Almost all other work  
 has been transferred to the Intels.

That's practical ?!  I  do more than that with 1/4 of the computer.
( today actually its 1/10 w/ the 97 g3 and yes its a little slow
sometimes, but mail is fine and so is my os9 stuff ...)

Its recommended some places I respect that you should choose mission
and objectives first then software then hardware. Its hard for me to
see that too well but I am slowly getting it I think (largely because
I have a lot of old macs and daily choosing the machine for the job).


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