Re: Video Card/Monitor Question
I think its only important if you are using 10.5 or higher. I went video card shopping a while back. There is a lot of information online about it. However, I know that the 9700 and 9800 are significantly faster video cards overall with or with out core image. On Feb 24, 2011, at 7:00 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote: On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 10:39 PM, Barney Guzzo guz...@gmail.com wrote: The 9000 doesn't support core image. I think 9600 9700 and 9800 do. Thanks for the info Barney. Is it vital to have Core Image? On Feb 23, 2011 11:33 PM, Stephen Conrad khel...@gmail.com wrote: Does this mean the card doesn't support Core Image? Or is it just the monitor? *ATI Radeon 9000 Pro:* Chipset Model: ATY,RV250 Type: Display Bus: AGP Slot: SLOT-1 VRAM (Total): 128 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x4966 Revision ID: 0x0001 ROM Revision: 113-99703-127 Displays: *NEC M500:* Resolution: 1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz Depth: 32-bit Color Core Image: Not Supported Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes Quartz Extreme: Supported *Display:* Status: No display connected -- Steve Conrad Henrietta, MO 64036 The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space. - Capt. Henry Gloval (\__/) (='.'=) ()_() Help Bunny Take Over The World! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/ group/g3-5-list -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Video Card/Monitor Question
On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 10:39 PM, Barney Guzzo guz...@gmail.com wrote: The 9000 doesn't support core image. I think 9600 9700 and 9800 do. Thanks for the info Barney. Is it vital to have Core Image? On Feb 23, 2011 11:33 PM, Stephen Conrad khel...@gmail.com wrote: Does this mean the card doesn't support Core Image? Or is it just the monitor? *ATI Radeon 9000 Pro:* Chipset Model: ATY,RV250 Type: Display Bus: AGP Slot: SLOT-1 VRAM (Total): 128 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x4966 Revision ID: 0x0001 ROM Revision: 113-99703-127 Displays: *NEC M500:* Resolution: 1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz Depth: 32-bit Color Core Image: Not Supported Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes Quartz Extreme: Supported *Display:* Status: No display connected -- Steve Conrad Henrietta, MO 64036 The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space. - Capt. Henry Gloval (\__/) (='.'=) ()_() Help Bunny Take Over The World! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Video Card/Monitor Question
Does this mean the card doesn't support Core Image? Or is it just the monitor? *ATI Radeon 9000 Pro:* Chipset Model: ATY,RV250 Type: Display Bus: AGP Slot: SLOT-1 VRAM (Total): 128 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x4966 Revision ID: 0x0001 ROM Revision: 113-99703-127 Displays: *NEC M500:* Resolution: 1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz Depth: 32-bit Color Core Image: Not Supported Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes Quartz Extreme: Supported *Display:* Status: No display connected -- Steve Conrad Henrietta, MO 64036 The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space. - Capt. Henry Gloval (\__/) (='.'=) ()_() Help Bunny Take Over The World! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Video Card/Monitor Question
The 9000 doesn't support core image. I think 9600 9700 and 9800 do. On Feb 23, 2011 11:33 PM, Stephen Conrad khel...@gmail.com wrote: Does this mean the card doesn't support Core Image? Or is it just the monitor? *ATI Radeon 9000 Pro:* Chipset Model: ATY,RV250 Type: Display Bus: AGP Slot: SLOT-1 VRAM (Total): 128 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x4966 Revision ID: 0x0001 ROM Revision: 113-99703-127 Displays: *NEC M500:* Resolution: 1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz Depth: 32-bit Color Core Image: Not Supported Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes Quartz Extreme: Supported *Display:* Status: No display connected -- Steve Conrad Henrietta, MO 64036 The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space. - Capt. Henry Gloval (\__/) (='.'=) ()_() Help Bunny Take Over The World! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
- Original Message From: Ashgrove salum...@gmail.com To: G-Group g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 12:22:56 AM Subject: Re: Monitor Question Hey Glen, Check this out: http://bit.ly/6nFcHY It hits all the sweet spots, and it's (slightly) bigger than your old Dell. I would get myself it if I had the money right now. Oh, well. Hey Felix, Thanks for the link. I took the easy way out and bought a 22 (21.5 viewable) HANNspree HF225 from the local staples for $149. No shipping but paid an additional $8.94 in state sales tax. The Asus had free shipping although I would have opted for the $5 second day shipping. The specs of the Asus and the one I bought are nearly the same. The HANNspree has a 30,000:1 contrast ratio and Asus is 20,000:1. Really don't know much about contrast ratios but I assume higher is better. The thing in the Asus specs I really MISS in is the Convenient key controls for functional set-up in the multi-language OSD. The HANNspree hides the control buttons under the monitor frame. The OSD symbols for functions like brightness and contrast for example molded into the black plastic frame above the actual control switches and for all intends and purposes are invisible --even with flashlight; small symbols, black on black are not very readable. It took a lot of patience and way too much time to get the proper adjustment/calibration for proper use. On the HANNspree you have to use the blind touch method on the controls. ---And they put the on/off switch in the mix so when you just think you got the adjustment you want; you accidently turn off the monitor and have to start again. I think the controls were designed by the engineering firm Dilbert works for with the full support of the pointed haired boss. Anyway all is well for now, the image is clear and sharp such an improvement from the old. I'm happy --glen -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
On 8/3/2010 9:42 PM, glen wrote: The Dell started having a problem with the screen image rolling down (or up depending on your reference). Sort of like the very old CRT TV's that needed the horizontal hold adjusted. I'm talking about 1950's or 60's TV's. Don't know if you are old enough to know what I am talking about. Once the Dell warmed up the problem went away. It got worse last Winter when the room temp was 50-60 F. The rolling was so fast it just a series of thin lines -- no image. Once the monitor warmed up, all was OK. The work around was to set the auto wakeup time for an hour or two before I needed to use the G4 DA the Dell was attached to. Recently the rolling started an hour or two after the monitor warmed up and was stable. This made for a difficult if not impossible to be useful in a work environment -- s time for a new monitor. The new monitor is definitely sharper than aged Dell -- but if a cheap repair is possible I would be willing to give it a try. I could find a very productive use for the old Dell. Thanks for the info --glen LCD monitors are inherently digital devices. If something is rolling like that on an LCD, I would suspect bad capacitors as being a possible cause. The rolling effect could be caused from the refresh. If the rolling gets worse or better when you adjust your refresh, that could be as cheap as a buck in parts to fix, depending on how many caps are dying it could be more, but they are cheap. We had one that exhibited that symptom. Don't know if that is the problem with yours but if you feel comfortable opening up the back and looking at the boards it will be easy to tell usually. However a cap can look perfect and still be bad. As for the old tvs, im 32. I remember the older tvs. Bought one from a thrift store that did that, had to repair it, horizontal video board had a bad component on it. =) -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
Recently the rolling started an hour or two after the monitor warmed up and was stable. This made for a difficult if not impossible to be useful in a work environment -- s time for a new monitor. The new monitor is definitely sharper than aged Dell -- but if a cheap repair is possible I would be willing to give it a try. I could find a very productive use for the old Dell. Thanks for the info --glen LCD monitors are inherently digital devices. If something is rolling like that on an LCD, I would suspect bad capacitors as being a possible cause. The rolling effect could be caused from the refresh. If the rolling gets worse or better when you adjust your refresh, that could be as cheap as a buck in parts to fix, depending on how many caps are dying it could be more, but they are cheap. We had one that exhibited that symptom. Don't know if that is the problem with yours but if you feel comfortable opening up the back and looking at the boards it will be easy to tell usually. However a cap can look perfect and still be bad. As for the old tvs, im 32. I remember the older tvs. Bought one from a thrift store that did that, had to repair it, horizontal video board had a bad component on it. =) Generally, I have no problem taking anything apart including the Dell. Should I assume the same danger applies to LCD's as CRT monitors regarding electric shock from the charge stored in the capacitors? If so, any safe way to discharge them? Probably won't try a fix anytime soon, too many more pressing tasks to do. FYI, I'm 63 and in reference to old TV's, I remember as a child of maybe 10 years, when the TV (a relatively new technology at that time) would go in the fritz and start rolling, usually while watching a favorite show, my dad would frantically go to the back of the TV to adjust the horizontal hold -- his words. Apparently the really old TV's had some sort of knob on the backside you could turn with a screw driver to the fix the problem. On the rare occasion when Dad failed to fix it, he would call the TV repairman. They made next day house calls in those days;, ahh the 1950's ;0 --glen -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
At 16:22 -0700 8/4/10, glen wrote: Generally, I have no problem taking anything apart including the Dell. Should I assume the same danger applies to LCD's as CRT monitors regarding electric shock from the charge stored in the capacitors? If so, any safe way to discharge them? Probably won't try a fix anytime soon, too many more pressing tasks to do. No. The real danger in a CRT device is the picture tube itself. It requires some 25,000 volts or more to accelerate the electrons that impinge on the face of the tube to make light by florescence in an internal coating. The outside of the tube is coated with an electrically conducting surface that acts as a capacitor - well it's a Leiden jar - that can store charge for hours. Flat panel monitors operate with voltages that are not harmful. If they plug directly into a wall without a wall-wart or in-line power converter they will have some 360 volts on capacitors that are part of the isolated low voltage power converter. That can wake you up and is especially dangerous because that part of the circuitry is connected directly to the household power lines. It's usually easy to avoid them in a special enclosure provided by the manufacturer. The capacitors there discharge fairly quickly when the unit is unplugged. If you can afford one, an isolation transformer is a good thing to have on your workbench. FYI, I'm 63 and in reference to old TV's, I remember as a child of maybe 10 years, when the TV (a relatively new technology at that time) would go in the fritz and start rolling, usually while watching a favorite show, my dad would frantically go to the back of the TV to adjust the horizontal hold -- his words. Gotcha beat. I'm 75. Apparently the really old TV's had some sort of knob on the backside you could turn with a screw driver to the fix the problem. On the rare occasion when Dad failed to fix it, he would call the TV repairman. They made next day house calls in those days;, ahh the 1950's ;0 --glen He was tuning the frequency of the horizontal oscillator. It has to match the rate at which the transmission is sent, about 15 kHz was standard NTSC television. There is also a vertical oscillator which was once 30 Hz. Modern CRT monitors are multiscan and can operate over a big range like 25 kHz to over 75 kHz.. But they still have that adjustment. It's usually a ferrite core in a wound inductor and you need a special tool to twist it. There are capacitors in the flat panel displays that can be a problem. In a great effort to make things smaller we have managed to standardize on little cylinders that are aluminum electrolytic capacitors. The insulator is aluminum oxide which is electroformed in an acid solution after the capacitor is built. The result is a device that is full of acid that can produce gas and explode. There are even little Xs formed into the aluminum case to make them leak gas without showering acid all over the place. You can often identify the bad ones by looking for Xs that have expanded into a dome. It's amusing that really old capacitors, like the ones in that TV set don't have the same problems. The aluminum is thicker and the oxide layer is thicker. Continuous usage keeps the oxide formed because the applied voltage does that for you. But they're a few inches high and an inch or so in diameter and the modern public won't accept that. -- -- From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit it. -- -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
- Original Message From: Doug McNutt dougl...@macnauchtan.com To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Sent: Wed, August 4, 2010 9:46:14 PM Subject: Re: Monitor Question At 16:22 -0700 8/4/10, glen wrote: Generally, I have no problem taking anything apart including the Dell. Should I assume the same danger applies to LCD's as CRT monitors regarding electric shock from the charge stored in the capacitors? If so, any safe way to discharge them? Probably won't try a fix anytime soon, too many more pressing tasks to do. No. The real danger in a CRT device is the picture tube itself. It requires some 25,000 volts or more to accelerate the electrons that impinge on the face of the tube to make light by florescence in an internal coating. The outside of the tube is coated with an electrically conducting surface that acts as a capacitor - well it's a Leiden jar - that can store charge for hours. Flat panel monitors operate with voltages that are not harmful. If they plug directly into a wall without a wall-wart or in-line power converter they will have some 360 volts on capacitors that are part of the isolated low voltage power converter. That can wake you up and is especially dangerous because that part of the circuitry is connected directly to the household power lines. It's usually easy to avoid them in a special enclosure provided by the manufacturer. The capacitors there discharge fairly quickly when the unit is unplugged. If you can afford one, an isolation transformer is a good thing to have on your workbench. FYI, I'm 63 and in reference to old TV's, I remember as a child of maybe 10 years, when the TV (a relatively new technology at that time) would go in the fritz and start rolling, usually while watching a favorite show, my dad would frantically go to the back of the TV to adjust the horizontal hold -- his words. Gotcha beat. I'm 75. Apparently the really old TV's had some sort of knob on the backside you could turn with a screw driver to the fix the problem. On the rare occasion when Dad failed to fix it, he would call the TV repairman. They made next day house calls in those days;, ahh the 1950's ;0 --glen He was tuning the frequency of the horizontal oscillator. It has to match the rate at which the transmission is sent, about 15 kHz was standard NTSC television. There is also a vertical oscillator which was once 30 Hz. Modern CRT monitors are multiscan and can operate over a big range like 25 kHz to over 75 kHz.. But they still have that adjustment. It's usually a ferrite core in a wound inductor and you need a special tool to twist it. There are capacitors in the flat panel displays that can be a problem. In a great effort to make things smaller we have managed to standardize on little cylinders that are aluminum electrolytic capacitors. The insulator is aluminum oxide which is electroformed in an acid solution after the capacitor is built. The result is a device that is full of acid that can produce gas and explode. There are even little Xs formed into the aluminum case to make them leak gas without showering acid all over the place. You can often identify the bad ones by looking for Xs that have expanded into a dome. It's amusing that really old capacitors, like the ones in that TV set don't have the same problems. The aluminum is thicker and the oxide layer is thicker. Continuous usage keeps the oxide formed because the applied voltage does that for you. But they're a few inches high and an inch or so in diameter and the modern public won't accept that. -- Great reply Doug, Answered my specific question and provided so much more technical/historical information that answered many of my unasked questions. Really appreciate it, thanks --glen -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
On Aug 4, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Doug McNutt wrote: He was tuning the frequency of the horizontal oscillator. It has to match the rate at which the transmission is sent, about 15 kHz was standard NTSC television. There is also a vertical oscillator which was once 30 Hz. Pre-NTSC, the horizontal sweep was 15,750 Hz and the vertical sweep was 60 Hz, interlaced 2:1, thereby giving a vertical frame rate of 30 f/sec. Everything was divided-down from a master 31,500 Hz source, which also happens to be the frequency of the so-called equalizing pulses within the vertical interval, five or six cycles of which surround the actual vertical synch pulse. NTSC introduces the concept of a color burst, which is 3579545 Hz, precisely. This is used to multiplex the three primary colors into an I and a Q channel, in quadrature. The other channel is Luminance (Y), and it is arranged that the bulk of the information is transmitted as Luminance, which can be recovered by a monochrome TV using conventional techniques which ignore I and Q. However, a color TV has additional circuitry which enables it to accept Y, I and Q and to output R, G and B to the shadow mask, or equivalent CRT. As the horizontal and vertical sweep rates MUST be divided-down from the 3579545 Hz burst in order to eliminate moire and other image defects, the resultant vertical frame rate is 29.97 f/sec. 29.97 Hz is close enough to 30 Hz to pass without any significant issues, just as the horizontal sweep frequency is close enough to 15750 Hz to pass without significant issues. BW transmissions have been using the NTSC frequencies for quite a few decades, perhaps five, as it became an imperative in the 1960s to be able to seamlessly intermix color and monochrome transmissions, using a switching technique invented by Sarkes-Tarzian Inc, the justifiably famous vertical interval switching technique. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
Hey Glen, Check this out: http://bit.ly/6nFcHY It hits all the sweet spots, and it's (slightly) bigger than your old Dell. I would get myself it if I had the money right now. Oh, well. Good luck, Felix -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 9:46 PM, admin oneluc...@mac.com wrote: How do you do that? I always wondered why one monitor couldn't work for all uses. Thanks. It's not difficult. I have a KVM switch set up to allow me to share the monitor between multiple CPUs. One of the CPUs has an ATSC tuner in it, allowing me to watch TV on the same monitor They also have digital converter boxes with VGA output. Unfortunately they are rare and relatively expensive. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
--- On Mon, 8/2/10, Kevin Barth godai@gmail.com wrote: From: Kevin Barth godai@gmail.com The monitors of interest is Hannspree 225DPB available at the local Staples office supply that I could not find the p rating. The advantage is I can pick this one up tomorrow and no lost time. First off, Hannspree is a common, if low-end, brand of hd televisions and video monitors. They aren't unique to Staples. Second, the 225DPB is capable of higher resolution than 1280x720 (the ad on Staples' site says it can do 1920x1080) which means it is either a 1080i or a 1080p. Probably the former, as they would be trumpeting it up in their ads if it were 1080p. Which doesn't make it a bad deal, necessarily. The difference between 1080i and 1080p is likely to be insignificant at that size of monitor, unless you are watching Blu-Ray discs on it. And even then I'm not sure you would notice a difference. The other finalist is a ViewSonic 2260wm from ComputerGeeks. This has the 1080p spec and I know as a long time commercial printer and as a much less qualified graphics artist that ViewSonic has a good track record, I still use one of their old CRT's for personal use that I got from FreeCycle. I have never heard of Hannspree and assume it is some Staples' house brand. I like Viewsonic. I have a 22 viewsonic CRT that I'm still using, more than 10 years after it's date of manufacture. It has never shown a single problem, has beautiful images, and I use it for television viewing as well as hooking up several CPUs. I also have a Hanspree 17 LCD HD display that I use primarily when composing on my electronic keyboard. It's OK. Nothing special, no problems either. It gets the job done, and was cheap. but I don't know that I would necessarily recommend it for commercial work. My reply: Thanks Kevin, I went with the Hannspree 22 mostly because it was an easy, cheap and fast replacement. Like most new monitors the screen images are crisp and clear. No real complaints it will suit my purpose. The only thing difficult was adjusting/calibrating the monitor. Hannspress hides the adjustment button UNDER the monitor frame. The button symbols are pressed on the black plastic and are invisible in my lighting. It really took me too long to get the monitor calibrated for my work. But I did and all is well. Really miss the adjustment buttons on the frame of the old 20 Dell 2005 UltraSharp that died. --glen -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
On Aug 3, 2010, at 5:13 PM, glen wrote: My reply: Thanks Kevin, I went with the Hannspree 22 mostly because it was an easy, cheap and fast replacement. Like most new monitors the screen images are crisp and clear. No real complaints it will suit my purpose. The only thing difficult was adjusting/calibrating the monitor. Hannspress hides the adjustment button UNDER the monitor frame. The button symbols are pressed on the black plastic and are invisible in my lighting. It really took me too long to get the monitor calibrated for my work. But I did and all is well. Really miss the adjustment buttons on the frame of the old 20 Dell 2005 UltraSharp that died. --glen Do you know what went bad? It is most likely either an inverter, caps or the likeliest problem, bulbs burned out. If you want that monitor repaired, I and likely a few others on this list can do them. I have a decent supplier for monitor bulbs, about 10-20 bucks per bulb, depending on the size of the display. 20 inch is likely around the 14 to 15 dollar range per bulb. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
Really miss the adjustment buttons on the frame of the old 20 Dell 2005 UltraSharp that died. --glen Do you know what went bad? It is most likely either an inverter, caps or the likeliest problem, bulbs burned out. If you want that monitor repaired, I and likely a few others on this list can do them. I have a decent supplier for monitor bulbs, about 10-20 bucks per bulb, depending on the size of the display. 20 inch is likely around the 14 to 15 dollar range per bulb. The Dell started having a problem with the screen image rolling down (or up depending on your reference). Sort of like the very old CRT TV's that needed the horizontal hold adjusted. I'm talking about 1950's or 60's TV's. Don't know if you are old enough to know what I am talking about. Once the Dell warmed up the problem went away. It got worse last Winter when the room temp was 50-60 F. The rolling was so fast it just a series of thin lines -- no image. Once the monitor warmed up, all was OK. The work around was to set the auto wakeup time for an hour or two before I needed to use the G4 DA the Dell was attached to. Recently the rolling started an hour or two after the monitor warmed up and was stable. This made for a difficult if not impossible to be useful in a work environment -- s time for a new monitor. The new monitor is definitely sharper than aged Dell -- but if a cheap repair is possible I would be willing to give it a try. I could find a very productive use for the old Dell. Thanks for the info --glen -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Monitor Question
Need I new monitor. My old 20 LCD Dell is on life support. No complaints got used as a gift many years ago. My budget is in the $150 range and the primary use is for graphic arts (commercial but not too color sensitive) and secondarily for general web browsing/email. First question, which would be the better 780p or 1080p. I think this has to do with visual lines per inch. I assume the higher p the better but really don't know. The monitors of interest is Hannspree 225DPB available at the local Staples office supply that I could not find the p rating. The advantage is I can pick this one up tomorrow and no lost time. The other finalist is a ViewSonic 2260wm from ComputerGeeks. This has the 1080p spec and I know as a long time commercial printer and as a much less qualified graphics artist that ViewSonic has a good track record, I still use one of their old CRT's for personal use that I got from FreeCycle. I have never heard of Hannspree and assume it is some Staples' house brand. The cons for the ViewSonic is the time and shipping. It will cost an extra week and about $20 extra for shipping after adjusting for the local sales tax at Staples. What da'yah think of the choices?? Also open to other monitor suggestions as well. I do have a few spare CRT's I can use until a new monitor arrives from far off place like California. --glen from the eastern shore. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
How do you do that? I always wondered why one monitor couldn't work for all uses. Thanks. On Aug 2, 2010, at 8:32 PM, Kevin Barth wrote: I have a 22 viewsonic CRT that I'm still using, more than 10 years after it's date of manufacture. It has never shown a single problem, has beautiful images, and I use it for television viewing as well as hooking up several CPUs. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Monitor Question
On 8/2/10 4:42 PM, glen wrote: Need I new monitor. My old 20 LCD Dell is on life support. No complaints got used as a gift many years ago. My budget is in the $150 range and the primary use is for graphic arts (commercial but not too color sensitive) and secondarily for general web browsing/email. If colour reproduction isn't too critical, then sure, the panel will work. But for accurate colour reproduction, last I heard, only the most expensive LCD panels will almost match the accuracy of a good CRT. First question, which would be the better 780p or 1080p. I think this has to do with visual lines per inch. I assume the higher p the better but really don't know. As others have said, the p refers to the display scan method used. i = interlaced, p = progressive. The numbers to the left of that refer to the vertical resolution. As these are standardized, 720 refers to a resolution of 1280×720 and 1080 is 1920x1080. I have not seen a display, or video card for that matter, that has an interlaced option in years. Just about any thing you might look at currently is progressive. My suggestion, when looking at reviews, treat them as you would any other monitor you are researching. Look at the colour accuracy, refresh rate, connectivity and resolution. Ignore the whole 1080/720 p/i thing, it's being used more for marketing than anything else, especially considering that with some displays (and televisions), the bold print may say 720p, but when you look at the fine print, it says that it can accept and display a 720p signal, but the actual resolution is less. And as 720/1080 is a television standard, it's pretty safe to disregard it when looking at a monitor. (IMO, of course) Consider that the display I'm looking at now, an old dell 2005 ultrasharp widescreen has a native resolution of 1680x1050, which is more than enough for 720p. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: ADC Monitor Question
On Feb 19, 2009, at 2:59 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: The only VGA to DVI adapters I've ever seen work only with a very early version of the DVI connection standard. The adapter you have will not work; as you surmise it's for connecting VGA monitors to a DVI card.. You're pretty much stuck with using solutions like VNC and the like. Well, I got the monitor home and it seems to work fine. Of course, I don't have any USB devices attached to it, so maybe that's why it seems to work so well. On the downside, there's a pressure point on the monitor. It's practically invisible when surfing or doing normal office work, but becomes glaringly obvious when trying to work with video or images fullscreen. Is there anything I can do to fix this short of replacing the LCD? I'm theorizing that the layers between the backlight and lcd have been breached, causing a pale spot on the Cinema Display. Thanks, Eric --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: ADC Monitor Question
On Feb 18, 2009, at 8:11 PM, Eric Volker wrote: I have a friend with a 23 Apple Cinema Display, with a curious problem. Apparently the USB controller in the monitor occasionally hiccups and hoses USB on his whole PowerMac. Due to this issue, he's willing to part with it. Now my G5 has a DVI card, but I have the old Nvidia 5200 ADC card handy. So two questions...#1) Is there any way to electronically isolate the USB on the ADC monitor? And #2) how would I go about using an ADC monitor with a DVI (or preferably, VGA - there's a KVM in the picture) connector? I found one adapter to use an ADC monitor with an iBook, but the price was a simply insane $300. This is what you need http://tinyurl.com/accan9 Still expensive at $100, but not $300. To stop the USB madness, just don't connect the USB cable on the DVI side. As for using one with an ADC port, I suppose if you were to dissect an ADC cable and cut the USB-supporting lines in it, (the wires connected to pins 21, 22, and 23) this should accomplish the same thing. Here's the pinout details http://pinouts.ru/Video/apple_adc_pinout.shtml BTW, that site is one of THE most useful sites in the IT universe... -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: ADC Monitor Question
I bought one of those adapters to allow the DVI connector on a G5 to use an ADC monitor, at the local Apple Store, and it works fine. I'm running an ADC 24 Apple Cinema HD display with it. The power brick of the adapter is about the size of a paperback book, but it just sits on the floor under my desk unnoticed. When I moved up from a G4, which had an ADC connector, to the G5, which did not, I figured $100 for the adapter to keep using this big Cinema Display with the G5 was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new monitor just for the G5. Tom --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: ADC Monitor Question
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: This is what you need http://tinyurl.com/accan9 Still expensive at $100, but not $300. To stop the USB madness, just don't connect the USB cable on the DVI side. As for using one with an ADC port, I suppose if you were to dissect an ADC cable and cut the USB-supporting lines in it, (the wires connected to pins 21, 22, and 23) this should accomplish the same thing. Here's the pinout details http://pinouts.ru/Video/apple_adc_pinout.shtml BTW, that site is one of THE most useful sites in the IT universe... Thanks, Bruce, that looks exactly like what I need. Now for the punchline: Is there any way to get the Apple Cinema Display HD to work with a VGA KVM? I realize that the adapter will allow one to use a standard DVI connector to work with the Apple monitor. But would it be as simple as connecting a DVI-to-VGA adapter to the DVI-to-ADC adapter? I've got plenty of DVI-to-VGA adapters floating around, but they're all designed to allow a DVI card to connect to a VGA monitor. I think I have a case of TLA fatigue... Eric --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: ADC Monitor Question
On Feb 19, 2009, at 1:13 PM, Eric Volker wrote: But would it be as simple as connecting a DVI-to-VGA adapter to the DVI-to-ADC adapter? I've got plenty of DVI-to-VGA adapters floating around, but they're all designed to allow a DVI card to connect to a VGA monitor. The only VGA to DVI adapters I've ever seen work only with a very early version of the DVI connection standard. The adapter you have will not work; as you surmise it's for connecting VGA monitors to a DVI card.. You're pretty much stuck with using solutions like VNC and the like. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
ADC Monitor Question
I have a friend with a 23 Apple Cinema Display, with a curious problem. Apparently the USB controller in the monitor occasionally hiccups and hoses USB on his whole PowerMac. Due to this issue, he's willing to part with it. Now my G5 has a DVI card, but I have the old Nvidia 5200 ADC card handy. So two questions...#1) Is there any way to electronically isolate the USB on the ADC monitor? And #2) how would I go about using an ADC monitor with a DVI (or preferably, VGA - there's a KVM in the picture) connector? I found one adapter to use an ADC monitor with an iBook, but the price was a simply insane $300. Thanks, Eric --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
