Re: [h-cost] Moving
Well now you've got me curious! Are you willing to post some pictures? Sounds divine! My house is a vintage 1997... I love that it has good insulation and no electrical or plumbing problems, but it is a bit short in the charm department! It's so fun to look at real estate and see how people fix things up! We have been fixing our house up despite its newness (former forclosure - angry teenager punched 39 holes in the wall, multi-colored badly painted walls, that kind of thing). --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
I agree with the comment about having the musicians take a breath while finishing your lacing. I'm also intrigued by the idea of 3 laces to really control where the corset is tight. As for the corsets themselves, I am of the opinion that corsets are necessary to get the correct shape (and bust placement) and the clothes can look rather frumpy and Simplicity without them. Working in theatre, this is something we have to deal with a lot. We like to build the side panels out of 1 or 2 layers of power net, with a vertical bone in the panels so it doesn't collapse on the side. That still allows a lot of sideways breathing movement and retains the proper period shape. Use spiral bones so there is flexible support. Don't worry if they kink - they will kink in the shape of the body. When I have built ballet bodices, we built the side panels on the bias, but that doesn't allow as much stretch as power net, and ballerinas breathe differently than either actors or musicians. You can't tell a musician to breathe like a ballerina - that isn't appropriate for the amount of support needed to play a wind instrument. As for sitting, finding and taking an appropriate stool to your gigs would be helpful. Chairs that are too short are hard to sit in with a corset. Let us know how it goes! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Reminder: PLEEEEEEASE trim your replies!
Remember there are folks who are on digest and have to scroll through all the junk you leave at the bottom of your message! Thanks! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The new Anna Karenina
Ugh. After the treatment Joe Wright gave the Kiera Knightly PRIDE AND PREJUDICE, I don't have much hope for this. I actually really like the Sophie Marceau version because... well, Sean Bean plays a fantastic Vronsky, and the costumes and cinematography are gorgeous! I love that they did the mermaid silhouette that doesn't get done very often. I'm not going to waste my money in the theatre right now. Maybe I'll catch it with a rental eventually, if I'm really hard up for a costume drama I haven't seen before. -Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine - FEET
I hate the zipper foot the machine comes with, so I got a classic zipper foot. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
I'll also throw in my vote behind the Bernina 1008: no computerized parts. The sales person was actually honest when I bought it and said it was better for traveling and wouldn't need much maintenance. The only thing I'd add is that I found a guy to switch out the bobbin housing from plastic to all metal, so I'd recommend that. The Bernina 1008 is what I have at home and is the model of choice for our home machines at work. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stupid question
Paper! Donating! What a great idea. Thanks, those who suggested it! I can get behind that idea. I also wanted to add that I like to have 2 pr pinking shears - one for general fabrics, one for delicate fabrics (linings, silks) so they stay useable longer. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stupid question
I bought a new pair of Gingher pinking shears and had the same thing happen so I sent them off to Gingher to sharpen. It took them *3 tries* to sharpen them to my satisfaction. I think they're testing them on wigan or muslin or something slightly crisp. I ended up sending a piece of the silk charmeuse I was trying to pink and told them I needed them to pink it. What a pain. I actually kind of hate the Gingher pinking shears but since they're the ONLY people who sharpen pinking shears, I feel like I have to use them, although I'm beginning to think buying a new pair of Fiskars on sale every time my pinking shears get dull might be much less of a hassle (though wasteful). --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
We just bought rhinestone appliques from this place for a show: http://www.gloryshouse.com/ As a warning, we ended up having to cover them in 2 layers of tulle so they wouldn't snag the mylar brocade costumes we were putting them on (it's Cinderella... what can I say?) but for something less snaggy, they'd be fine, I think. They really sparkle. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] marking tools
I love using Sew Line mechanical marking pencils with ceramic leads: http://wiseminds.com/thedigitalmirage/?p=136 Expensive, but they make the sharpest line when other marking methods fail me. In fact, I have almost entirely stopped using the designer pencils. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock Holmes A Game of Shadows
Don't blaspheme Jeremy Brett! I totally disagree that he was robot... I found him very subtle and the most perfect Holmes! Yes, he strayed from the book by having Holmes give up his cocaine addiction but the reasons he did it are sweet (Brett said he wanted to be a good role model for kids). And, oh, he wears the clothes well! I also like that they didn't resort to the inappropriate deerstalker cap unless he was outdoors in the country! And even then they stayed away from the plaid to not give in to cliche. Huge Holmes fanatic, huge Brett fanatic. A marriage made in heaven for me!! It's only too sad he wasn't able to finish the series. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Venting a bit: sourcing
Oh now, don't I feel silly! Thanks for pointing me to the e-mail address, which I had missed. I did send her a kinder nudge, recommending she source each draft at the end of its page. Who knows if she will take advice or care? --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Venting a bit: sourcing
I was looking up notched collar drafts online just so I don't have to produce my own for a class I'm teaching and came across this site: http://www.pattern-making.com/men-notch-collar/ It really irks me that this woman takes her draft, charts, and diagrams straight out of Masaaki Kawashima's book (FUNDAMENTALS OF MEN'S FASHION DESIGN), doesn't credit him, and then puts her own watermark all over it like it is hers. And I can't even find a place on this website to send her an e-mail to tell her what I think about it. I wouldn't even care so much if she just credited her source. Grr. --Rachel (back to lurking now, thanks.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?
A trick my dad taught me is that if you can't take a full-size tripod, get one of those tiny, table-top tripods. It's best if the tripod can splay its legs out wide or flat. Then you can stabilize your camera against your own chest! --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
What about using rigiline boning? Pull the little plastic rods out of woven part of the boning and use those as individual bones. It seems to me, with that tiny bit of flexibility, it would imitate bones better than toothpicks. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies
Rayon bemberg, baby! At least for theatrical purposes, silk is way too fragile. It wears away under the arms particularly quickly. I'd choose poly over silk for that reason alone (and I never say that!). --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Modern Military
Does anyone know of a book with drafts for modern military wear? Most of what I can find is historic military wear. Thanks, --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] UK costumer request
Hello, h-costume list! Long-time lurker here. I had someone contact me about a Victorian bustle dress on my website, wanting a similar dress for her wedding on a budget. I told her I'd put the feelers out here, since it would definitely not be cost effective to be working across the pond. I don't know any of the details, such as where she lives or anything. If you're interested in making a little extra cash and live in the UK, contact her at c.smith1...@yahoo.co.uk Thanks! --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sherlock online
Nobody has mentioned it so I will - it can be viewed online on PBS's website: http://www.pbs.org/ I plan on watching it myself as soon as I have time, since I was at the theatre on Sunday night. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gingher Scissor Service
Hm. It took me 3 tries to get my pinking shears working properly after sending them to Gingher to get sharpened. I feel like they only tested on something crisp, and I needed it to cut through lightweight silk charmeuse to finish the edges. They eventually got it right after I sent samples of what I was trying to cut but it did take time and effort. Truth be told, I don't like their pinking shears much but after failing to find anyone to sharpen other brands I've liked better, I've had to resolve myself to them. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Resizing a Historical Corset Pattern
I'd probably start over on the drafting. I'd figure out the proportion of each piece along the hip line and apply that to your own hip measurement. Same with the waist. (For example, if the center front piece at the waist was 17% of the total waist measurement, and your waist was 30, then your CF piece would be 5.1 at the waist.) Of course, take into consideration any inches you may want to remove on the waist measurement. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Speaking of hair and rats.....
You can donate your hair and old nylons to an environmental cause! http://www.matteroftrust.org They're using hair, feathers, fur, etc. to collect oil from the spill in the gulf. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Vintage police uniform
A co-worker of my mother-in-law has recently bought and renovated a 1929 studebaker and would like to have a matching vintage uniform to go with it. Does anyone have a source for online vintage police uniforms? Or, barring that, a good place for research? Ultimately I don't want to have to make it because I don't really have the time or set-up for it (my sewing supplies are all in storage in another state), but if I can at least give some pointers... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dressing Sherlock Holmes
This is a huge pet peeve of mine!!! If you want what I consider the definitive look for Sherlock Holmes based on the books, please check out the series from the 1980s starring Jeremy Brett. As appropriate, he only wears a grey deerstalker and inverness maybe 3 times the entire series, always when traveling to the country. There was a lot of research and knowledge involved in the costuming (and overall production design, for that matter) for that show. It is excellent and I highly recommend it! Dear Brett played Holmes to perfection, flaws and all. deep breaths --Rachel, a Sherlock-phile ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is this real or not?
The first thought I had: She is not dead. My second thought: I've seen a lot more wedding photos of the groom sitting and the woman standing. And she does seem slightly reclined. And what are we seeing at the hem of her dress? I wonder if she was partially paralyzed or something which would require her to be the one sitting (hence the shorter dress and slight slouch back into the chair). Just speculation, of course. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Speaking of Uniquely You....
Has anyone found a way to rig or replace the stands so they're not so wimpy and wobbly? --Rachel Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
This brings up a good point. Anyone know of any good 18th century shoe sources that aren't hundreds of dollars? I'm finding that I'm not even that nuts about shoes I'm finding on reenactor sites. The heel shape is just SO hard to get right. That's why I like the slides posted below... but the open toe is not at all what I want. Thanks, --Rachel http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPGhttp://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes embroidered, would have swooned over these. Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13
http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery05/lillielangry/index.html That first photo looks modified on the left (her right) at the waist. Somebody posted a link here once about modified old photos but I don't have it anymore. As for iron corsets, if they were anything normal, don't you think we'd have lots more of them in existence? I mean, they're IRON! They don't disintegrate. I'm in the medical purposes camp as far as those go. --Rachel Sponsored Link Get an Online or Campus degree Associate's, Bachelor's, or Master's - in less than one year. http://www.findtherightschool.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
Actually, it's not all smooth and nice. Watch it again. She comes out and looks pretty thick around the torso, especially compared to the last white costume. It's because there are several layers up there. Most actresses wouldn't want to be padded out like that. You can see them reaching for fasteners several times, both the man and the woman. Yes, it's still amazing, but after having seen this several times over the months, the methods are becoming less and less mysterious. Still, very entertaining, though! And I'm happy that it impresses the masses. --Rachel Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Cut on bias??
Hi Deredere. In my opinion, you should only cut ruffles on the bias if you want to 1)use a stripe or pattern and it becomes a design element, or 2)when you need a really crisp, stiff fabric (like dupioni, for example) to lie flatter. Bias ruffles want to fall. You won't get the spring out like you will with ruffles cut on the straight of grain. Have you considered circular ruffles? You should cut some samples and see which you like best. Regards, --Rachel Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New Yahoo.com (http://www.yahoo.com/preview) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Cut on bias??
Hi Deredere. In my opinion, you should only cut ruffles on the bias if you want to 1)use a stripe or pattern and it becomes a design element, or 2)when you need a really crisp, stiff fabric (like dupioni, for example) to lie flatter. Bias ruffles want to fall. You won't get the spring out like you will with ruffles cut on the straight of grain. Have you considered circular ruffles? You should cut some samples and see which you like best. Regards, --Rachel Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail (http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: cataloging the #$%#^ growing pile of patterns
I seemed to have missed the original post, so I'm not sure of the exact question, but thought I'd throw in my 2c. What I do is put a shrunken-down copy of the line drawing I got from my designer on the front, and a shrunken-down copy of the actor's measurements on the back. If I don't have the measurement sheet, I put the essentials (bust/chest, waist, hips, height, etc.). On the front, I also include what the pattern is inside with a description (a-line pleated robe, etc.), the show, date, and the designer's name (just so I'm not stepping on any toes by having a copy of a rendering without giving due credit). This prevents me from having to print out any photos, though a finished shot would be nice. I will then catalogue them by date at some point in my life when I go through and weed out all the crappy commercial patterns I collected for so many years. --Rachel __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: In an ideal sewing world..............
The discussion about when and where you all started sewing seems to show me that I am, so far, the only one who has no childhood background of sewing. Add me into that figure. I was self-taught and started at about 19 years old when I wanted a Star Wars costume that wasn't crap, and didn't want to pay a lot of money because I didn't have it, so I made my own Lady Han Solo costume. That year I ended up making 4 Star Wars costumes, and after that, more Star Wars and Lord of the Rings and Jane Austen events just kept me going and going! Now I'm working on my graduate degree in costume technology. Go figure! I always wanted to be a scientist. You never know where you're going to end up. --Rachel __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: narnia movie
Wow, I LOOVED the White Witch's costumes! I remember thinking them a bit odd when I first saw them in trailers but after getting a bit used to the idea, I love them! I also read interviews with Tilda Swinton and the costume designer which were very interesting. Remember, Jadis is NOT human. I think encasing her in rigid clothing that exaggerated the form was a good way to indicate this. I must praise Tilda Swinton to the heavens for making this costume work on her! She moved about as if it were nothing, as if it really was what she wore every day! Good on her. I'd be so happy with her if I were the designer. Also, her hair was very cool - like roots in the earth. In fact, I think I remember Ms. Swinton saying something about how it was supposed to look earthy. Loved the melting icicle crown. Loved it! Liked the kids clothes. Agree that it is not what I would have chosen for coronation clothing, but then again, remember that they are CHILDREN so long trains wouldn't make sense for them. Also remember that the movie is made for children and is supposed to be fantasy, so perhaps what would have been more drool-worthy to our eyes wouldn't have been as pretty to little kids. I wanted a better view of the grown-up kids' clothing! Guess I'll just have to go see it again. SHUCKS! ;) --Rachel __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] busks, corset supplies
I'm just getting back from holiday and trying to get caught up on e-mail, so sorry if this is really late. I had to plug my favorite corset supply store, Grannd Garb. See their site here: http://www.grannd.com I haven't purchased anything from them for a while, being a student and hence very poor, but last I checked, their prices were very good and they sell many different lengths and widths of busks. I went there after a rather annoying experience with corsetmakers in which a busk I got from them broke and they were unwilling to do anything about it. I have always been pleased with Grannd. I purchased my industrial grommet setter from them, which is one of my most beloved posessions. I'm happy to give up my secret if it means more business for them. :) --Rachel __ Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question: Ageless Patterns 1891
I have found that with many old corset patterns in general, I have to take in the bust gores considerably. I didn't use this particular pattern, but I did put together another ageless pattern corset and that was the easiest way to fix the problem of the overly-large bust. I can't say that my measurements were THAT far off, though. I know in the past, that with other corset patterns with so many pieces, I've ended up throwing a whole piece away to get it to fit correctly. Strange! If you have someone to help you fit it, try to see where it is coming out too large and have them help you pin it in to fit/cinch you. That's the best suggestion I can offer, which is probably obvious! ;) When I've made the Ageless Patterns work, I've always been pleased with the results. Good luck! __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
