[h-cost] Interesting Underwear find
Just read this really interesting article on a discovery of 15th century undergarments in Austria. Never say never things really are being dug up every day! http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2174568/Found-castle-vault-scraps- lace-lingerie-rage-500-years-ago.html ::Linda:: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting Underwear find
What you say is certainly true... even the article's title is misleading. I see no lacey lingerie, but I suppose that's what it takes to grab the average reader today. But it's still interesting, and I'd love to see photos of other pieces in this discovery. Any leads on that? ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 11:20 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting Underwear find This article is getting some discussion in other places. It's a shame the author (or whoever provided the information to the author) makes so many assumptions. For instance, the pictured garment described as a bra appears to be fragments of a much larger item -- look at the part surviving at the lower left side of the garment (right side of the photo) with eyelets at the side and a waist-level edge at the bottom, which might have been attached to a skirt. (The shaped cups are cool, though! I can see that in 15th c. German costume.) And as Heather Rose Jones pointed out in a conversation elsewhere, the string-bikini knickers bear a strong resemblance to men's underwear seen in 15th c. German artwork. The article, however, assumes they belonged to women, although there's no context to determine the wearer. --Robin On 7/17/2012 9:55 AM, Linda Rice wrote: Just read this really interesting article on a discovery of 15th century undergarments in Austria. Never say never things really are being dug up every day! http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2174568/Found-castle-vault-scraps- lace-lingerie-rage-500-years-ago.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting Underwear find, more
Yes, I saw that one, too. Wonderful to have actual 'real people' photos, isn't it? As far as the underwear, I agree that the article is rather sensationalized, which I suppose is just part of today's general media. I'd love to read reports written by textile experts and directed towards educated enthusiasts such as myself and others. I consider the Daily Mail article but a teaser! Still, what I take away from it is that here is proof of undergarments being worn, in a style similar to what we thought of as much later. Were they worn everywhere by everyone? I'd say that remains to be determined. And besides, the list is in its typical summer doldrums. We needed *something* to talk about!! Linda -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 12:28 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting Underwear find, more I followed up on a link on the same page and it yielded more deliciousness, this time Edwardian: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2173872/Edwardian-street-style-Ast onishing-amateur-images-capture-fashion-women-London-Paris-century-ago.html or (thanks to TinyURL): http://tinyurl.com/72jubj9 Like many of us, I question the attribution of bra and especially knickers to the items shown in your original post. I can see the so- called bra as a part of a Germanic underbodice of some sort. The other might just be a sanitary garment, but there's also no indication whether or not it was worn by male or female persons. The layers-- if we can really tell from the photo-- might indicate female. But without closer examination by an actual costume historian, the online article sounds rather (dare I say) bogus. :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2174568/Found-castle-vault-scraps- lace-lingerie-rage-500-years-ago.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] a costumer's term question
Garb-age? Today's question is, if the cut-off bits of cloth are cabbage, what are the cut-off bits of fur? Jen/Margaret ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Leatherwork book for gift
Have you checked the Tandy/Leathercraft website? They have tons of books, tools and such for all types of leatherwork. They also have stores, and gift certificates. :) www.tandyleatherfactory.com I've had an idea percolating for some time to make a bag out of some fun leather I have, using brass bits from Raymond's Quiet Press. www.quietpress.com ::Linda: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Angela Lazear Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 11:53 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Leatherwork book for gift Can anyone on the list recommend a book I might purchase for my nephew for Christmas? He's very much into heavy leather work. He creates beautiful belts with pockets and loops, -- imagine a policeman's belt but as a deconstructed fashion item. Anyway, his talent is a bit sophisticated for the books I'm finding. I might like to find him either books or some tools, or maybe some fairly unusual findings. All suggestions are appreciated. angela ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Travelling to the US in March 2011
March 18, 19 20 is Military Through the Ages, in Jamestown, Virginia. Williamsburg and Jamestown are right next to each other, so if the dates work out, it's worth an afternoon's visit. MTA is an historical timeline event, so not much dancing there, sorry! :-) Jamestown is the site of the first English settlement in North America, in 1607. www.historyisfun.org This entire region is chock full of 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th century American history. Our Revolutionary War was fought here, as was our American Civil War. You cannot throw a rock and not hit an historical marker around these parts! ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 8:45 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Travelling to the US in March 2011 I am travelling to the US in March to attend Costume Accessories: Head to Toe at Colonel Williamsburg. Does anyone know if there are any other historical costuming or dance events on in March that I can add to my itinerary? Bye for now, Aylwen Garden ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for Hat Blanks
Off the 'top of my head' (hahaha) www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel/Merchants.htm has a list of possibilities, including Dirty Billy's Hats. I got my heavy black felt hat from Steve Pano of Ranger Reproductions and can easily recommend him. He does not, however, have a website. His other contact info can be found on the above site. There is always Jas Townsend and Historic Enterprises for a look-see: www.jas-townsend.com/ www.historicenterprises.com HTH- ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kathy Hoover Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:51 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Source for Hat Blanks I am in need of several black felt, round, wide brim hat blanks of decent quality (so they will last the abuse of theatre work), but that cost in the $20 range. Does any one know of a resource? I have already tried Smoke and Fire. They are out of stock and having trouble with their supplier. Thanks, Kathy Hoover ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] how to fix a pulled seam
If the jacket isn't lined, or if you can get the lining out of the way, use a bias tape to reinforce the seams. Just sew it flat down on top of the seam, on the inside. On the outside you'll see a line of stitches on each side of the seam. This may or may not be acceptable to you visually, but it may be all you can do to save the garment. You may want to first re-sew the seams to get the fringey bits taken care of, before you do the reinforcement tape. HTH- ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Julie Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:27 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] how to fix a pulled seam Help! I have a favorite jacket I'm trying to save. The fabric is a plain weave silky fabric. The seam was just sewn with a straight stitch with no seam allowance treatment. The stitches are just pulling through the seam allowance making fringe. It's on a 2 piece sleeve near the elbow. What are my options to save this? It's pulled right to the seamline in several places. I'm guessing I'll need to use a zig zag stitch but that's about as far as I've gotten. There's little to no seam allowance to work with. Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Old Dutch Hat
Found this old Dutch hat on eBay, thought some here would find it interesting. Construction details are extremely clear. http://cgi.ebay.com/23836-Unique-Dutch-medieval-leather-hat-16th-century_W0Q QitemZ110396329653QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b4224eb5 _trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262_trkparms=%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30 If the link doesn't work, the item number is: 110396329653 Or search by seller name- Stormbroek-auctions ::Linda:: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Breast Cancer Awareness: Quilted Bras
This was sent to me by a friend, and I thought you guys would appreciate it as well. Not exactly historical (sorry!) but certainly important and worth sharing. ::Linda:: Members of Quilters of South Carolina have created one-of-a-kind bras for Breast Cancer Awareness. The exhibit consists of 49 original works of art which are unique, entertaining, humorous, and beautiful to make the public aware of breast cancer, to memorialize those lost to the disease, and to honor survivors. Be sure to click on page 2 to see the entire collection. http://www.quiltersofsc.org/artfullbras/artfullbras.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Raymond's Quiet Press offers that rare combination of good, fast and reasonable price. www.quietpress.com ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 5:52 PM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles? Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
There is a spray product available at places such as Home Depot that does a very good job of removing smoke smells from things. I didn't use it on clothing, but read the label and see if it's recommended or not. A few years back our kitchen caught fire and this spray really did an excellent job on the house, including the furniture. I gave the rest of the can to my sister to get the tobacco pipe smell out of her car after her husband has been driving it for a while. She said it worked there as well. Sorry I can't remember the exact name but it was located in the cleaning section of HD. ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of A. Thurman Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 9:12 PM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I live too far away!) So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there. I've found a few online references (http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0715272815935.html?4, http://ask.yahoo.com/20021212.html, http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-cigaret te-smoke-smell) and while I'm still researching, I have a few questions: 1) most of the recommendations I've read for removing tobacco smoke from fabrics involve phospate based detergents, vinegar, and/or ammonia. This is great for whites, but will this affect dyed fabrics? 2) my mom is very wash and wear so most of her clothing (as well as linens) are cottons and cotton-poly blends. What about the odd wool or silk items? 3) Any further recommendations? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance
Hmmph! Just last week I went to Kinko's to copy a couple of patterns. They could not possibly have been more accommodating, one of the assistants actually fed the sheets into the poster copier for me. I told her that I wanted to copy the pattern because I needed several sizes made up, and I needed to be able to cut them out separately. She looked at the pattern sheets and asked, Is this like a pilgrim outfit or something? When I told her it was actually a for a WW1 era- reenactor, her eyes glazed over and she didn't say another word. She obviously was not the least bit concerned or interested. ::Linda:: -Original Message- On Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 1:37 PM Subject: [h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance Lord, yes Kinko's staff has ABSOLUTELY NO understanding of snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Change Subject Lines
Pt. It would really help us all to change the subject header when we change topics. Every time I see the others, the ones related to the flame war, I just delete them unread. I'm sure I'm not the only one! ::Linda:: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] cotton wool
Dawn, thank you for this bit of info. I really didn't know! But I actually like the 'lumpy bumpy texture... it just seems more tactile-y interesting. ;) ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn When it's made up and washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just can't imitate. Lumpy bumpy is a 20th century phenomena that only happens when quilts get put into a washing machine. In the 1800's a quilt would have been hung and beaten, spot cleaned when necessary, and rarely completely emerged in water. Water makes the quilt quite heavy -- one person would have trouble lifting it -- and weakens the cotton fibers making them shred. Normally the filling would have remained quite flat within the quilt. You can buy raw cotton by the bale here: http://www.cottonman.com/ Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] cotton wool
I got an enormous roll of rough cotton batting from an upholstery supplier. It wasn't cheap and the shipping was rather much too, IIRC. But, I have enough of this stuff to make many, many quilts or quilted garments. It's really thick, and can be peeled apart at the thickness desired. It's messier to use than the pre-made stuff, but once I got the hang of it I found it no worse than anything else. When it's made up and washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just can't imitate. I got mine here: http://vandykes.resultspage.com/search?w=cotton+batting Homepage= www.vandykes.com If shipping to where you are is too much, I'd suggest contacting a local upholsterer to see if they can get it for you. HTH- ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Edith Reardon Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:12 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something that is loose fibres. Thanks for trying Brin Kendall ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Thank you! Hmmm... I just finished up my part in a WW1 dress for a friend. She took it home this afternoon to hem and put the buttons on, to be ready to wear this weekend. Next up is a couple of sets of Viking pants and tunics. After that I need to finally get around to doing a simple Colonial set for me. That project has been put on hold for too many years- and I'm missing out on events because I don't have proper kit. Grr. And I just started weaving lessons. That'll keep me busy for a while! ::Linda:: -Original Message- On Behalf Of Cin Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? I'm bored with the medical, trademarks copyrights discussions. Any chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic? Please? What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Old and Interesting site
I found this site and thought some of you might enjoy it too. http://www.oldandinteresting.com/default.aspx Tons of neat stuff on early domestic chores, tools and methods, especially laundry. Mostly 18th, 19th and early 20th century stuff, but some earlier references here and there. ::Linda:: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks
True sweet tea is made by adding the sugar when the tea is still warm, so that it dissolves completely. I've seen some folks add cups, yes plural, to a pitcher of tea. I call tea that sweet Tea syrup, mainly because I find it way too sweet. Some folks do like it though, and if you go to a restaurant in especially rural places in the South, just expect that's what you're going to get, and probably won't be able to get unsweet tea at all. Cities are changing, but countryfolk are slower to do so. My dad, for example, hated having to add sugar to a glass of iced tea because he said it never really dissolved. Yes, he was very country! I have absolutely zero costume content to add here, sorry! ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sharon Collier Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 4:21 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:iced drinks Is this sweet iced tea specially made or just iced tea with sugar? In Calif our iced tea comes without sugar, so you just put in however much you want (if any). -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Try finding sweet tea in Florida! Once you get south of the panhandle you are no longer in the South as far as food and drink are concerned. I did run into one nice waiter in Orlando who was from Georgia and he agreed to make me a pitcher of sweet tea. He got a nice tip! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Naturally price could vary quite a bit, just as today. (Off the rack from China vs. designer or custom made) Here's one site that might be useful. Note the wedding dress price is for sample dresses, so may not be very accurate. http://www.gti.net/mocolib1/prices/1958.html ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Prices in 1957 Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in 1957? I'm not looking for a current value but what something would have cost in 1957. Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress?? My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to prepare a card where the punchline is 50 years together, priceless. They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this year for the rest of the bit. For some reason they thought I would know about the dress :). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
Here's another, of a nice dress. Says that $350.00 was a lot of money for a wedding dress at the time. Today, that's dirt cheap. http://www.thevintagevault.citymax.com/catalog/item/256734/45142.htm Now, I'm off to go work on my own costumes today! Yay! ::L:: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT: Some Comments
Ooh, thanks Denise. THAT was my exciting costume news that I forgot to share! I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the $1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPE! She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to be. So, I guess Walmart paid attention to the fact that they don't need to be upscale- that is not their target market. I'm not sure what is going on with the other service oriented departments that were under the knife, such as paint, automotive and fish. Fish, now that's one section I'd be very happy to see out of our Walmart. It's so bad I'm surprised PETA hasn't found out about it! ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Land of Oz OCC: local Walmart stores seems to be in a run of new $1.00 yard fabrics! I was trying really hard to use only stash on recent projects, but the siren call of cool stuff is too much for me. I found a *lovely* bolt of something (synthetic, I'm sure) that looks like navy blue nondescript whatever on the backside (the side showing in the stack) but when I folded it back to the right side -- OMG -- it looked exactly like hammered copper only not *quite* copper colored and not *quite* the color of gold. My daughter is only in 8th grade but she immediately said Prom Dress, Mom! so naturally I bought all 6 yards. For a dollar a yard, what the heck! In two trips to two different stores I bought about 20 yards of fabric. Denise ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
My grandmother did the dampen and chill method for ironing the cotton muslin curtains in our house. She made them for every room, including the mile-a-minute crochet lace to go on them. After she got too old to do it, my mother took up the tradition. Me, I barely have curtains at all, and the ones I do are not the ironing kind. I always thought they did it because they couldn't get to the whole stack of curtains at once, so putting them in the refrigerator kept any chance of mildewing from happening. (We didn't have AC at that time) That, and having the fabric uniformly damp was faster and easier than refilling the water reservoir on the iron all the time. Just now, I found this on the web- begin This is quoted from the book Laundry by Robert Doyle- he founded the wardrobe dept of a live theater and also was one of the first instructors at Costume Studies at Dalhousie University. He gives the reason for chilling the fabrics. after drying, garments to be ironed are best sprinkled with warm water to dampen them thoroughly, then each garment rolled up into a tight ball, placing each into a plastic bag and into the refrigerator for a couple of hours so that the items are thoroughly dampened and chilled. then with a dry iron, set at the cotton setting, proceed to iron out the wrinkles ... the dampened and chilled garments will iron more efficiently since the iron glides effortlessly over the chilled fabric. He also writes that heavier irons work better than lightweight ones and that a dry iron with a mist bottle works better than a steam iron. This is on cotton and linen fabrics. end So, still no date or ah ha moment, but one can deduce that the practice must have started sometime after refrigerators became common household appliances. It would not have been mentioned in a book in 1894 because people were still using actual ice boxes at that time, which really weren't big enough to toss in sheets and such! At least that's my theory, YMMV. :D (Interesting info on the history of refrigerators, here: http://www.history.com/exhibits/modern/fridge.html) ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 1:20 AM I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated. Some of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this. It makes me wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the generations. I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and cooling the linen is not mentioned. Penny Ladnier, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Gifted fabrics
I was recently given several large bags of vintage fabrics, all of it either linen or silk. There are several very large pieces of very tightly woven linen as well as similar large pieces of very tightly woven silk. (probably 6 to 8 yard pieces) All are natural ecru color. The problem is they have gotten brown age spots. I know I can probably dye a darkish color to hide them, but I'm wondering if there is any way to remove the spots totally. The silk and the linen are both in excellent condition otherwise, with no weakening at all that I can tell. A couple of the pieces have been washed and dryed, and this didn't seem to really hurt them at all, only tightened them up a bit. I'm also wondering what to do with this, if it can be used. The silk has a very stiff hand but very few slubs. It rather handles like a heavy dupioni, but without the slubby texture. It is not shiny or lustery either. It just seems strong and durable, not glitzy and glamorous. As for the background story, this was part of a Life Collection of an 80-something woman who lives where I work. She's widowed and childless, and has decided it's time to clear up some things while she's still able. I was told the linen came from Panama in the 1950's (so it may not be true linen but some other natural fiber) I was also given a bag of patterns from the 40's, which are great fun. She was a tall, large-boned woman so her patterns won't take too much to size up to fit me, as well as the styles being suitable for me. (Yeah, it was Christmas in June for me~!) So my questions are: How do I get brown spots out, and what can I use this unusual fabric for? Thanks for any and all help and suggestions! Linda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Thanks, Fran, for your very helpful hints~! I hadn't thought this might be mold... hmmm... Yes, I live in the mid-Atlantic on the beach, and we have a considerable humidity issue year-round. Especially since the woman lives in a condo right on the beach. And yes, these are definitely brown, not black, stains, and the fabric was never used, only folded and stored for decades. How she stored it, I have no idea but I could ask next week. Could have been a nice trunk or chest, or it could have been a cardboard box at the bottom of the closet. I just don't know. I've no problem with oxy-bleaching the linens, but what about the silk? I know bleach will melt silk, is oxybleach the same threat? Since it isn't a high-shine silk to begin with it might be ok. Cutting around the brown stains isn't really an option. I'll try the Oxyclean and see how it comes out. Next step would be dyeing, but I worry about getting an even job. I guess if all else fails I could get artistic with it. ;D Linda -Original Message- On Behalf Of Lavolta Press The problem is they have gotten brown age spots. Since I assume these are unused fabrics, and therefore don't have beverage spills or the like, what you are seeing is probably some form of mold. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
Will do, and will let you know if I succeed. Thanks again, Linda [On Behalf Of Lavolta Press] I'd suggest test-bleaching a swatch. In my experience if you dye a light-colored fabric that has stains which are not too dark, and your dye is a deep to dark color, dyeing will often cover the stains fine. Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics
You know, this was my first impression... that the brown spots remind me of the way newspaper burns when it gets really old. This fabric has a haven't seen the light of day since Kennedy was in office smell, but not a musty or mildew smell. Now, I'm much less sure than I was this morning! As far as its use... I have no idea It's far too heavy to use for linings. Might work well for corsets if I needed a couple dozen of them. :D I'm thinking maybe do some creative dyeing and make pants and an oversize shirt outfit. As far as historical, I'd love to hear suggestions! The big pieces of silk are equally heavy, and has yellowed a lot. There are also some exquisite smaller pieces of different kinds of silks, at least one that screams Veil! I want to be an historic veil! every time I look at it. ;-p All of them are marked in some way, so I guess I'll be spending time soaking and watching and hoping. Or, washing, dyeing and hoping. Here's to hope... Linda -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 3:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gifted fabrics It is possible that the brown spots on the linen(?) fabric are permanent--cellulose will oxidize over time to form oxy-cellulose, and this change is non-reversible. Can you use the linen for linings and underpinnings of some sort? Good luck! Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
Robin, I have the Osprey book here in front of me. Pg. 25, half page illos in bw. Caption reads: Though depicting an event of the 9th century, the artist of the Byzantine Madrid Skylitzes portrayed the Emperor's bodyguards as 12th-century Varangian Guardsmen. Eighteen of their famous axes are in evidence, as well as four unit standards and seven spears. (Bibllioteca Nacional, Madrid) I can scan and send this to you , if you like. HTH, ::Linda:: -Original Message- On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Another question that's come up as I edit a paper. This one is about the dress of a particular Byzantine guard unit in Constantinople. The author cites a manuscript image, but doesn't give a folio number. I'm querying the author, but in the meantime I found two references to the image in books, and so perhaps one of them has a clear citation. Does anyone here have either of these books? If so, can you look up the picture referenced here, and see if they give the folio number of the painting? Heath, I. (1979) 'Byzantine armies 886-1118', Osprey Men-at-arms series, 89, p.27 Heath, I. 'The Vikings', Osprey Elite series, 3, p.25 The picture is from a manuscript known as the Chronicle of Skylitzes, and shows an image of the Varangian Guard at the Hippodrome that might be folio 26 of that manuscript. Or it might be folio 26v. Or it might be something else. Any clarification is most welcome. Thanks! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
Eureka~!!! http://www.geocities.com/egfrothos/Adoption.html ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Thanks, but I actually have a scan of the image. What I need is the folio number. Is there a credit anywhere in the book that lists the folio number? It might be in the caption, in fine print near the image, or in a list in the back keyed to page number. The manuscript itself is from Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de Espana. For that matter, if there is a manuscript number (usually but not always begins with MS) I need that too! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
We used Un-Du when I worked as a custom framer. It is amazing stuff! You might try contacting a local frame supply place to see if they'll sell it to you. (They may not sell to the public, but it never hurts to ask) ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Betsy Marshall No, still looking in my local stores(sad face) http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
Elizabeth, what is the width of your silk? I'm a size 24-26 and 5'10 and can easily make a kyrtle or gown out of 3 yards of fabric, if it's at least 58 wide. Gotta love those simple, no-waste cuts! (There's really no need for a paper pattern for simple gowns like this, in fact they tend to waste fabric imo) I like working in noil. It's very forgiving and comfortable. ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole Subject: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle I've been given just under 4 yards of dark gold silk noil as a gift and the summary is I've got 3 3/4 yds of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves do you think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and shared experiences are welcome. Thanks Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Medici mystery revealed
Interesting new discoveries about the Medici's: http://www.guardian.co.uk/italy/story/0,,1979151,00.html ::Linda:: (sorry, no relevant costume content, just kinda interesting story) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Anyone remember this dress?
Hi Penny~! Yup, I'm still here... just don't post very often these days. I *try* to keep up with H-cost postings but admit that sometimes when they flush in great batches I do have to skim over a bunch. Glad to hear you and your family are doing well. Good luck on the office, and the grout! ::Linda:: On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 1:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone remember this dress? Hi Linda, Good to see you on the web again! Those are some nice Cher links you sent. Thank you! You know I didn't take Cher's wig from the Richmond concert. Besides... I went to see her in Philly. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Anyone remember this dress?
Robin, the only thing that comes to my mind of a dress that wraps around the neck and covers the breast was that weird swan dress that Bjork wore a couple of years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bj%C3%B6rk (scroll down to bottom for pic) A couple more possibilities, but nothing so far like you are describing: (Can you remember at least about when this was? That would help) Website with hundreds of Cher magazine covers (sadly not updated since 2002) http://www.everythingcher.com/pages/mag2000.htm Close-up of the Time cover: http://img.timeinc.net/time/magazine/archive/covers/1975/1101750317_400. jpg This one has the People magazine cover, but it's more of a dominatrix thing- http://www.apeculture.com/music/summerofcher.htm Many faces- and costumes- of Cher: http://angelic-cher.tripod.com/id10.html I wonder if Penny Ladnier knows... she's a big fan of Cher. ::Linda:: Alas, no. The one I'm looking for has a piece of fabric coming up from the skirt, just to the side of center, going over one breast, around the neck, and back down as far as the other breast, in sort of an inverted J. This one, on the other hand, I can envision being wearable. (Assuming you look like Cher...) But thanks. It is sort of a fun scavenger hunt... It would be nice to know that I am not hallucinating at remembering this. But how could I have invented it? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
Good Morning~ A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a reliable seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus on Victorian and earlier periods. Thanks for your time, Linda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
Hi Sylvia, We live in Southeastern Virginia, she in Chesapeake to be exact. Yes, long distance does add to the problem! Corsets by their very nature requiring exact fit means either she needs to be available for fittings, or she needs to find a gifted specialist who is accustomed to doing this by mail. She knows this, fortunately. She's made her own corset before but is unable to do it again. Thanks, I'll pass your e-addy along. Linda On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:35 AM Where does she live? I can make just about anything but I need to be able to do personal fittings in order to guarantee a good fit. Sylrog On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:21 AM, Linda Rice wrote: Good Morning~ A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a reliable seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus on Victorian and earlier periods. Thanks for your time, Linda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Ok, then, what is a gusset? From what I've learned over the years and confirmed by looking a the following definitions, Gore and Godet are pretty much the same, with the godet being specifically that triangular piece which extends upward from the hem to add fullness to a skirt, and a gore being that or also a trapezoidal or tapering shape that functions the same way and possibly extending higher than just the waist/hip area. A gusset is that triangle, diamond or other shape that we add into the underarm and thigh areas to give us more room where it is needed, and is sewn in on all sides. The first two are only sewn on 2 sides. * Gore (gôr, gr) n. 1. A triangular or tapering piece of cloth forming a part of something, as in a skirt or sail. 2. A small triangular piece of land. tr.v. gored, gor·ing, gores 1. To provide with a gore. 2. To cut into a gore. [Middle English, from Old English gra, triangular piece of land.] * Godet go·det (g-dt) n. A triangular piece of fabric usually set into the hem of a garment to add fullness. [French, goblet, godet, from Middle Dutch codde, cylindrical piece of wood.] * Gusset gus·set (gst) n. 1. A triangular insert, as in the seam of a garment, for added strength or expansion. 2. A triangular metal bracket used to strengthen a joist. 3. A piece of mail or plate armor protecting the joints in a suit of armor. [Middle English, from Old French gousset, perhaps diminutive of gousse, pod, husk.] ::Linda:: info taken from www.thefreedictionary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Hello~! This is so not my period of study, so I'm not much help on issues 1 2. But for issue 3, I can tell you what I see. I see a deliberate design, not a place where the paint is flaking off or a mistake or sloppy painting. Notice the perfectly straight line across the top of the black shape, and the symmetrical curve of the bottom line. Those suggest an opening to me. I almost fancy that I see subtle shading of gathers and puckers along the bottom edge. I also see tiny hatchmarks inside it, which looks a lot like a representation of netting. It would make sense for a woman with a lot of hair to put it up in a sturdy net, then cover it with the fashionable outer bag that we see here. This is what I see... others may see differently! +Linda+ -Original Message- On Behalf Of E House Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 6:42 PM Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this Clouet painting (1522): http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points. If you'll look at this closeup: http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg you should be able to see each of them. Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is that it's not really a part of the headwear. If it were a part of the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort. Any ideas as to what on earth it could be? Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources
Hi Robin~! One of the very best books I've seen for just this purpose is _Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters_ by Lynn Edelmann Schnurnberger. ISBN: 0-06-025241-3 Published originally in 1978 by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but I think it's been reprinted in paperback since. Amazon lists several used copies of this (for cheap), but it does not seem to still be available new. This was written for a summer children's Medieval Festival at the Cloisters in NYC. Children from ages roughly 8 on up can easily make these costumes themselves, since everything is based on 3 shapes, with clear easy to understand directions and pictures. It also includes a fair few images of real medieval items, so kids can get a good idea of what it's supposed to look like. It covers basic heraldry designs as well as simple cardboard and foil armor and weapons. Overall, this is a great little book for this purpose. Beyond this, I'd wait for patterns to go on sale at Joann's. ;-) =Linda= -Original Message- On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 9:39 AM Subject: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources I'm going to be speaking to my kid's elementary school class about medieval costume, as part of a big unit they're doing on the Middle Ages. This much I know how to do, and have done before. No problems there. Here's the part I need help with. The class will be putting on an in-class medieval feast at the end of the unit, in about two months. The teachers want the kids to be dressed appropriately. Most of the parents probably don't sew much, and even if they do, they're not going to need or want to take the time and effort to learn about medieval costume, or to spend the money on proper materials. This is supposed to just provide a bit of flavor and color to the festivities. (Think kids' Hallowe'een costume.) The teacher has asked me to provide some basic references on easy medieval costume that the parents can draw on. I am absolutely backed up and can't write my own, although I'll probably offer a list of basic garments and suitable colors. Beyond that, I want to make a list of books and websites that will tell them, essentially, how to make their kid look medieval in an evening or two, with a minimum of expenditure. Can anyone think of any other useful books or web pages for a parent who simply has to clothe the kid, doesn't need to be particularly authentic, and will have no further use for the costume after one wearing? Surely there are some SCA webpages or kid's costume books out there... --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
I saw this yesterday morning as well. And I was pretty darned excited, until I saw the fiber content. It's 20% nylon, which is too much for me. Also, I'm not all that thrilled with the colors. It all depends on your needs, for ACW/Victorian it might be just fine. For Early Period, it's not what I'm looking for. It is an excellent price, though. ::Linda:: -Original Message- On Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 11:44 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses? Saw this on fabric.com website and thought I would alert folks to it and ask if it was worthy of use in Period Attire. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] What do 19th century reproductionist do for calico?
Hi~! Not really my era either, but perhaps this will help: http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/ The fabric is lovely, btw. I had to get to it the hard way, but I got there. ;-) ::Linda:: -Original Message- On Behalf Of WickedFrau Subject: [h-cost] What do 19th century reproductionist do for calico? Okay-I am WY out of time period that I know anything about, but I found this beautiful calico that I just HAD to have I don't know if I REALLY want to know the answer to the next question, but I'll ask anyway. :-\ What do you think of this pattern and colors for a 19th century gown- http://tinyurl.com/8z7dn If the link doesn't work, it is *Moda Kansas Troubles Scrapbook Garden 9092-13* I have bought 7.5 yards of it and probably need another 5. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...? Or, Dyeing in a front loading washer?
I really had to do a double-take on this subject line Dying in a front end loader to me, means that somebody died in a horrible industrial accident! A front end loader is like a big tractor with a scoop on the front for moving dirt around and loading dump trucks. It has nothing to do with laundry! Thank you for the morning chuckle! ::Linda;: -Original Message- On Behalf Of WickedFrau Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 2:18 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...? Anyone have any experience with this? My top loader washing machine is about to croak. I live in the desert and would like to go with a more water efficient machine. Some have suggested just keeping my old one for dying, but that will only last for so long. Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Cleveland?
Last summer we planned to go to the Cleveland Museum of Art as part of our vacation. Good thing I called ahead to plan. I was told by the nice lady at the CMA that all but 3 exhibits were boxed up and in storage, including all of the medieval armor and weapons stuff, and art. Seems they are moving into a new building and doing a lot of serious remodeling there. I asked when they planned to be fully re-opened and was told 2009. Yes, FOUR years! I'm sure parts will be back before then, but if anyone is planning on going to the CMA, calling ahead is a Very Good Idea. Pax, ::Linda:: On Behalf Of Ailith Mackintosh Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland? I don't live in Cleveland; I'm about an hour and a half southeast of it. You'll love the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Kent State University Fashion Museum! - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 2:43 PM Subject: [h-cost] Cleveland? Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area? Cheers! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] living history questions
Hi Carolyn~! It sounds like you have a pretty big task ahead, but the good news is, it *can* be done, and the program will be better for it in the long run. Our group did the same sort of thing several years ago, and it's been a long growth process. We did lose some people, but the ones who stayed are happy that we did it. It sounds like you are blessed with a program director who has a vision and a plan, and he's looking to delegate the work to get it done. Good on him! He really needs the trust and support of the remaining core volunteers. I'll answer your questions below: -Original Message- On Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 9:47 AM There has been a change in the leadership of a living history program I am in. The new person in charge wants revive the program, which has almost become depopulated, and to make us look and act like a real living history program. I am assuming that a higher standard of authenticity in costuming will help both to attract new people and to improve things generally, but I'm a costumer. My questions: What do you look for in a living history program you're considering joining? What, besides the fact that it's a time period you're interested in, would attract you to such a program and, time permitting, make you want to come play? ## For me, it's all about the history, regardless of the who/when/where. I want the feeling of complete immersion, and I want to try and convey that to the public, even if only just a fraction of it crosses over. To me, it's magic! Having accurate clothing plays a big part in recreating this feeling. Making sure that everyone knows the whole story of the place or events, and is able to talk about it also is a huge part of the picture. The new person in charge has specified two levels of participation, one full-time and one part-time. We will have a core of regulars, and room for drop-ins who don't have the time nor the inclination to make a full-time commitment. And he's allowing for days core people have to miss. ##This is an excellent plan, imo. Always remember that this is a volunteer outfit! Appreciate them for what they give, and don't make them feel bad for what they can't give. Most of us would give our eye teeth to be able to play all day long, but Real Life Comes First. I've seen program directors get too caught up in looking good for their own bosses and end up treating the nice people very poorly. Then in a few months they really panic when they look around and realize they have no more volunteers. How authentic to the period should the costumes be at first? We have several male characters who are wearing OK-looking generic working class clothing from our period, and about three women in garments that are about right for the year we've chosen (1901). Should we go easy on the authenticity at first, and try to raise the standards later, or should we change to the higher standards now, and try to raise the few older members up to them? ## This is a really tough one. My experience has been to just make the standards *now*, and have everyone understand why you are doing this. Yes, some people are not going to like it, but some people are going to rejoice! I bet if you talk to your program director, he'll back you up on the new rules. After all, it's *his* vision! What is the best way to tell people who have been doing the program since it began, but whose standards of authentic costuming are not what the new person in charge wants them to be, that they have to meet higher standards now - if the new person in charge hasn't been in the program as long as they have? The same question goes for me, the new costume mistress for the program. My own solution would be to ask that when an objectionable garment wears out it should be replaced by a better one. But I'm a volunteer, as are all the participants, so the question becomes a delicate one to ask. ## This is a delicate problem indeed. If you think you have some folks who are going to really balk or get sniffy, then they will need some extra TLC. But the reality is, things like this are just a fact of life. How many times have you had a job where all of a sudden you get a new boss, half your age and full of newfangled ideas? It's a tough adjustment, but most people handle it just fine eventually. Either that, or they move on to softer pastures. Don't let the few who *might* resent changes cause you or your boss to hold back from what you know to be right. Who knows, they just might surprise you! You said that the program is in a low spot now anyway. If so, I bet the troops all know it and are ready for something new. So, make new standards and recruit new people! Which 'cheats' are considered acceptable and which are not? Some of the male characters are played by women with long hair, and they have always braided it and let it hang down their backs. By 1901 pigtails
