Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in this conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received Ann's message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :( This isn't my period of interest either, so I cannot comment on historical accuracy. Charlene, shoelaces sewn in the center front? What!? From the pictures, I can't see any laces in front. Good gosh, I wish I could see these instructions! LOL! I think you should just toss the confusing instructions aside. Just. Stop. looking. :P Where the bodice meets the skirt, make a casing and put the grosgrain ribbon in. Put it in like you would elastic. (In this case, it's not a full circle. It's sewn closed at the back hem opening.) To finish it, add a hook and eye where that meets. The grosgrain ribbon would be your under-bust measurement, with some ease...and would make the A-line gown take the shape you want. Then, you'd be able to adjust the gathers where you'd want them. If you need a little more fullness for your bust, you have gathers...if you want a smoother front, you could push a little more of the gathers toward the back. The sleeve ends would be the same process; grosgrain ribbon put in like you would elastic. And honestly, since you just want a once a year, looks good enough gown, why not just use elastic there where no one would see it? On that note, why not just use elastic under the bust too? You'd certainly have a bit more ease of movement. I suggested that the 1/4 inch ribbon went into the neckline casing because wide ribbon doesn't tie and hold a knot very well. But, in my experience, I find satin ribbons to be horrible for this. The satin is too slick. If you can find grosgrain, the ridges might help it stay tied. Or perhaps some other type of cord? You can do this in 2 weeks!! Don't give up. :D On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 4:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I think Sybella gave you a good answer. However, if the pattern instructions are that poorly written, I suggest you also let Butterick (McCall) know. You can't be the only frustrated user. I shudder to think of any newish sewers tackling this pattern. I'm strongly beginning to think I'll just wear modern clothes to the dance instead of a costume. I have only two weeks left to get this done (and that includes a fitting mock-up). Both views list fabric and lining. HOWEVER, and this took me quite some time to figure out, they're not the same layers between the views. For View B the fabric is the pink and it's lined (makes sense), but for View A the fabric is the net/mesh layer and the lining is the visible white layer. To my brain View A should be a white fabric layer with a net/mesh overlay. Bah! I chose this pattern because it was the only one I saw that had a neckline that would hide modern bra straps; for a once-a-year, does't-need-to-be-accurate thing I didn't want to mess with a corset. Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] spam (was need help with Butterick B6074)
A...off to check that folder. Thank you, Lynn and Emily..for the record, Emily's didn't arrive in my inbox either. Sheesh. Stpid Gmail!! LOL! On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com wrote: And I thought it was just my spam in gmail... I check every other day or so, or whenever I feel I'm missing part of the conversation. Emily, I love your little mouse picture! Is it something you made? LynnD On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 1:26 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: On 2/27/2015 2:12 PM, Sybella wrote: Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in this conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received Ann's message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :( Ann's messages tend to go into my spam folder for some reason - Gmail's security settings don't seem to like them. I've taken to checking my spam every day so I can rescue anything that's not supposed to be in there. Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions online. But I'll give a stab at it. :) Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it looks like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string tie, one on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also through casings but sewn in at the seam or hem. For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have draw-string ties.) So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to not to twist. http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385 On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] storing needles
I've never had that many needles that I had to worry about it!! LOL! I use a toothpick holder, which is like the wooden needle case things but bigger. I found long ago that those wooden needle tubes were way too small. None of the longer or heavier needles would fit. But the toothpick one is perfect for my needs. Machine needles are stored in the cases they came in, in the tool box that slides under the arm of the machine. For hand sewing, just so you know, I cheat. I only use standard embroidery needles so that they're always easy to thread. Ha. All my misc needles are stored in that wooden toothpick holder, in my hand sewing tin (about the size of a deck of cards) that also holds a small pair of scissors, hand sewing pins, and a couple bone awls. (I used to do a lot of handmade eyelets for costume lacing so those are in my box all the time.) When not in use, that trusty tin is kept in a small vintage carriage case, where I keep what I use all the time: rotary cutters, spare blades, blade sharpener, measuring tapes, thread in black and beige, and a few other odds and ends. I know this is way more than you asked for but I have to say, I love not having to dig, at all, when I'm in the mood to sew. I can grab one little box and go, whether I'm machine or hand sewing. Or just pull my tin out of the carriage case if all I'm doing is hand-work. On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 3:50 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: I'm organizing the craft/sewing room and I'm curious: how do people store all their various needles? For my purposes, I'm excluding knitting and crochet needles (those I have under control). I'm trying to better organize my various sewing needles: tapestry, crewel, yarn, sewing machine, hand sewing, beading, etc. I've been keeping the tapestry needles in little wooden needle cases separated by size; the hand sewing needles are mostly attached to the paper they came on when I bought them; the machine needles ae mostly in the plastic cases they came in. But then I've got the odds and ends that are attached to bits of paper or fabric or in pill bottles or the like. Quite the jumble. Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo
Well, it looks like we have 3 votes for post-mortem and 2 for not. This is so very interesting!! Thank you for this topic, Penny. :) Someone said something like Ask yourselves, if the question hadn't been asked, would we be seeing so much evidence of death? No, we wouldn't but that has little to do with this photograph. We wouldn't question it because we would just assume life. This practice of posed family photos with the deceased hasn't been done in so long that it's totally foreign to us. For us, it's something you just don't do. Mourning brooches fall into the same unsettling category. Now, if someone walked around wearing a piece of jewelry made out of their dead friend or family member's hair, people would find it (and the mental state of the person who did so) truly alarming. Keepsakes are acceptable. Pieces from someone's body, not so much. That, and if the photographer did a good job, we shouldn't notice. These days, we do the same thing but it's not a photographer who does it. The deceased are made up to look beautiful for viewing, so they don't look dead. So I can't say I agree with the comment that death has a certain look and he doesn't have it. When the qualities are obscured with make up and there's no sign of serious trauma, what does death look like? One can only go by the eyes, right? Please guys, let's keep this discussion scholarly. :) Now, back to Herbie. His right eye fell inward and had probably been like since infancy, which would make him left eye dominant. But while all the others are looking where they should, his left eye (the one that should be focused) seems lost and empty of life. Blindness is a possibility but when the look of the eye is coupled with other elements in the photograph, I still have to keep my vote on the post-mortem side. On Thu, Jan 15, 2015 at 11:42 AM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: Actually, I was not reading into it. I was not stating that the children were being yelled at. I was simply giving several possible alternative reasons for their facial expressions that did not include being upset that someone was dead. My point being that you can't assume that the child in the photo is dead because of the facial expressions of the other children. And had the PM or not question not been asked, I doubt it would have been assumed that they were mourning simply based on facial expression. This seems to happen every time the PM or not is asked about a photo. Thanatos archive posts these quite often. And every time there are several people who suddenly see things in the photo that they would not have seen if the question was not asked. For example, the baby has to be dead because the mother looks so sad and she is wearing black. The mother could have been wearing any color that photographed as dark. The facial expression was blank which was not that uncommon for that type of photograph (these are the ones you have to sit very still for). And even when specifics are given as to why the outfit would absolutely not be mourning (trims, fabrics, styles, etc), people only see death because that is what they are looking for. Personally, I like to look at anatomy. We can only guess at emotion, but we scientifically know what happens to a body after death. Teena From: Jacqueline Johnson jacqueline.m.john...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 2:19 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo Of course a lot is being read into it. That's why we have this list is it not? After all, you just read a lot into yourself, the idea of the kids being yelled at...you're right, we can't know. But we can conjecture. About history. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo
Oh, I think it is indeed a post-mortem photo. The light is gone from his eyes. There's also an odd pale spot on the top of his right ear, which may be part of the wired head support. I would presume he's shoe-less because of post-mortem swelling (blood pooling to the lowest point), making it so his shoes wouldn't fit. The legs and feet are kind of washed out in that photo, shadowed. I'm not sure if it was just choice lighting, or if the photographer altered it during developing. Either way, I think the photographer did that on purpose to hide the stand. But I think I see a hint of a circle under/behind his feet, the base of the stand. And last, I think the older daughter (your aunt) is leaning so far over because her left arm is on the other side of the supports. It looks a bit awkward, sure, but this way, all four heads are charmingly balanced. It is lovely. All in all, I think the photographer did an amazing job. I'm glad light spots weren't brushed into it...those always make it obvious! On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 10:07 PM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote: I'll open a can of worms. I have a photo of my Dad and his siblings from 1912 http://www.costumegallery.com/kids2.jpg . The little boy in this front is he postmortem or handicapped. He passed away in 1912. I have always thought the belt around him was odd and being shoeless. My Dad told me once that his mother was very strict and would not allow them to go around barefooted. Last week I was dusting the photo's frame and gave it a hard look and thought it might be postmortem. Penny Ladnier, Owner The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras
Thank you. I wasn't sure how much was between the two passages. :) LOL! I am beginning to think the two fedoras bit is a nonsensical dream sequence and we're trying to see the illogical logically. This one is supposed to be Sarah. You may have found it already but it was the only Sarah in a fedora picture I could find, from a French blog entry from 2011 on the trendy fedora. http://maniadeguria.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/sarah-bernhardt.jpg Although the brim does look a little small. Fedora or not, I think she looks lovely! And, I'm loving that coat. If nothing else, you gotta check out the cut of the sleeves. :) I think the wiki page labeled Sarah as a notorious cross-dresser. So maybe the manly noir men in are indeed wearing a gender appropriate hat. :P Sorry I wasn't more help. If the writer is truly talking about a styling aid, I'm totally at a loss! Thank you for bringing up this topic though. I'm enjoying it immensely! :D On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 12:07 AM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: Those were both part of one continuous passage; in context, she's getting ready for bed, then waking up in the middle of the night--no hats involved! In the previous paragraphs, the writer was talking about how girls from Runover (which seems to be some sort of prep school or college) feel superior because they're too high-minded to crimp their hair, but spend just as much time brushing their hair as they would have spent crimping it. Anyway, in context, definitely not a hat type of fedora, which makes it all the weirder! :) It was published in 1886, although it's written as a series of letters; this one is dated January 1885. -E House On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 1:35 AM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Hm. I see what you mean. In the first reference, the comparison is made about the time spent brushing hair vs brushing the hat clean. And in the next, she's using the hat to hide her unstyled hair because she was too lazy to set it. She was saying that Charlie would be disappointed with her for not having her hair done. But it does say two fedoras, and that she fell back asleep with one side undone. Unless she's splitting it down the middle, doing a quick twisted bun on each side, and putting the hat over, I don't know how she'd get two hats on her head. What year was that written?? Maybe there was a styling hair tool called a fedora. And I'm loving the Sarah B story. I'm going to have to research that tonight. :D I would like to add this though. If you're planning on wearing a hat, you do have to style your hair with the hat in mind. The hat influences the style, for sure. I'm not sure if there was ever a hair style that was a fedora style but depending on the shape of the hat, or where it sits on the head, styling it right is everything. On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 9:59 PM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks; lovely resources. I'm definitely familiar with the fedora as a hat; I've just never heard of it as a hair styling technique before, hence my curiosity! Thanks to Google books and the Ngram viewer (hugely useful for etymological study), I've managed to track down a possible link. The fedora was named after the hat that Sarah Bernhardt wore during an 1882 play called Fedora. (Meaning that all those manly men in noir movies were wearing a girl's hat...) Perhaps the hairstyle she wore during the play ALSO started a fashion for a particular style of curls, and the girl in that passage I quoted was setting her curls into the particular style that Sarah B wore during the play; it sounds like it must have been one really tight curl per side, covering the forehead. (Sadly, I've been unable to find a photo of Sarah B in the original fedora hat with her fedora curls.) Also, I've come to the conclusion that 'crimp' and 'curl' were being used as interchangeable words. -E House On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 11:37 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: OH!! I forgot! I was going to give you one more link...old videos of women doing their hair. I love this! http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic/hair.htm On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: What a fun topic!!! Love vintage hair styling! And since my hair wont hold a heat curl for more than 35 minutes, I've explored a lot of no-heat curl options. :) A fedora is a particular style of hat. It was quite the norm to give hats a little treatment at the end of every use, especially in the case of suede, felt or velvet, where a brushing not only knocks the dirt off but refreshes the surface texture. People did this with garments too to get a little more wear out of them between washings, or to keep non-washable garments clean. There are quite a number of ways to achieve curls
Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras
What a fun topic!!! Love vintage hair styling! And since my hair wont hold a heat curl for more than 35 minutes, I've explored a lot of no-heat curl options. :) A fedora is a particular style of hat. It was quite the norm to give hats a little treatment at the end of every use, especially in the case of suede, felt or velvet, where a brushing not only knocks the dirt off but refreshes the surface texture. People did this with garments too to get a little more wear out of them between washings, or to keep non-washable garments clean. There are quite a number of ways to achieve curls, without modern curling irons, and women have been doing it since the dawn of time. To me, crimp implies more of a folded, zig-zag type curl than a round curl. Or at the very least, tight and small curls. In the 1880s, many irons existed for hair styling many of which would achieve a crimped look. Even a iron for clothes could be used to curl hair. But I agree that the author is implying that it is a set and air dry style...and that the starring character is being lazy with her beauty routine. LOL! What you suggested are all definite possibilities. While bobby pins are a newer invention, standard hair pins have been around since before the birth of Christ. In addition to pinning curls to your head like 40s pin curls, hair pin curls could be achieved in the same way that hairpin crochet is done; take a small strand, wrap it back and forth on the needles, pin the whole thing in place and let it dry. A twist set creates a more crimped look too. Either you take small sections of hair and twist the sections together tightly. Or you take one section and twist it around something else. Then, once it is fully try, you carefully un-twist. It's all the same process, whether you use only your own hair or wrap around something else. The twist out set is done today, usually on kinky curly hair but even those with straight hair can achieve a similar look. Do a web search for twist out to see what I'm talking about. :) Or watch this girl. She uses drinking straws and bobby pins to achieve no-heat crimpy curls. I love it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBik0XlFZKE And for something older (1700s), check out this lady's video on paper curls. I know you were leaning toward no-heat styling, but there's a catalogue in the beginning of the video that makes this worth watching for your book research. A few pages of hair tools are shown. As an alternative to rolling the hair around a heated rod, one could have wrapped the ends in paper, then rolled up the hair and folded the paper over the ends to hold it in place. Then, iron it with a flat iron, let it cool and pull off the paper to reveal springy curls. I had to hunt but here's a youtube link demonstrating it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP9PJsY5__4 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 7:00 PM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: I'm writing a novella set in 1887 with three teenage girls as the main characters, and as a result I've been doing research into the slang pop culture and so forth of the time period in New England. The 1880s are Not My Era, and I've run across a term-and-a-half that confuse me. Here's the passage, from The Familiar Letters of Peppermint Perkins, with the terms and phrases ***starred***. -- I did begin that very night by not ***doing up any crimps.*** I was going to wear my hair like Clara's. She never wears any crimps. Runover girls never do, though they have never advanced any sufficiently good reason to me for not crimping it, for they all look like old fuds with it so, and they spend just as much and more time brushing and smoothing it ***at night than I do on my Fedoras.*** Well, I was going to say I didn't do up any; but about three o'clock I woke up and remembered that I had promised to go skating with Charlie Brood out to Jamaica the next morning, and I knew any amount of self-improvement wouldn't make up for the absence of crimps in his eyes, so I just snaked out of bed and ***up with two Fedoras;*** but no sooner had I got them up than my conscience began to reproach me for my weakness, and after I got back into bed I determined that even Charlie Brood's criticisms shouldn't influence me, and I began to take them down; but you see I was so sleepy, getting up so suddenly (it all was like a dream), that I only got one down before I dropped to sleep, and the next morning you ought to have seen what a fright I looked. You know how high my forehead is, and shiny. Well, there I was with all that shining expanse and ***one little bob on the left temple***, and I overslept on account of getting up so, and was late, and before I could do anything Charlie Brood was after me. -- The crimps part I only find partially confusing; I'm familiar with crimping as something one does to curl one's hair with hot irons, but not as an overnight treatment. Is this a reference to putting one's hair in rags? Leaving
Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras
OH!! I forgot! I was going to give you one more link...old videos of women doing their hair. I love this! http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic/hair.htm On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: What a fun topic!!! Love vintage hair styling! And since my hair wont hold a heat curl for more than 35 minutes, I've explored a lot of no-heat curl options. :) A fedora is a particular style of hat. It was quite the norm to give hats a little treatment at the end of every use, especially in the case of suede, felt or velvet, where a brushing not only knocks the dirt off but refreshes the surface texture. People did this with garments too to get a little more wear out of them between washings, or to keep non-washable garments clean. There are quite a number of ways to achieve curls, without modern curling irons, and women have been doing it since the dawn of time. To me, crimp implies more of a folded, zig-zag type curl than a round curl. Or at the very least, tight and small curls. In the 1880s, many irons existed for hair styling many of which would achieve a crimped look. Even a iron for clothes could be used to curl hair. But I agree that the author is implying that it is a set and air dry style...and that the starring character is being lazy with her beauty routine. LOL! What you suggested are all definite possibilities. While bobby pins are a newer invention, standard hair pins have been around since before the birth of Christ. In addition to pinning curls to your head like 40s pin curls, hair pin curls could be achieved in the same way that hairpin crochet is done; take a small strand, wrap it back and forth on the needles, pin the whole thing in place and let it dry. A twist set creates a more crimped look too. Either you take small sections of hair and twist the sections together tightly. Or you take one section and twist it around something else. Then, once it is fully try, you carefully un-twist. It's all the same process, whether you use only your own hair or wrap around something else. The twist out set is done today, usually on kinky curly hair but even those with straight hair can achieve a similar look. Do a web search for twist out to see what I'm talking about. :) Or watch this girl. She uses drinking straws and bobby pins to achieve no-heat crimpy curls. I love it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBik0XlFZKE And for something older (1700s), check out this lady's video on paper curls. I know you were leaning toward no-heat styling, but there's a catalogue in the beginning of the video that makes this worth watching for your book research. A few pages of hair tools are shown. As an alternative to rolling the hair around a heated rod, one could have wrapped the ends in paper, then rolled up the hair and folded the paper over the ends to hold it in place. Then, iron it with a flat iron, let it cool and pull off the paper to reveal springy curls. I had to hunt but here's a youtube link demonstrating it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP9PJsY5__4 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 7:00 PM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: I'm writing a novella set in 1887 with three teenage girls as the main characters, and as a result I've been doing research into the slang pop culture and so forth of the time period in New England. The 1880s are Not My Era, and I've run across a term-and-a-half that confuse me. Here's the passage, from The Familiar Letters of Peppermint Perkins, with the terms and phrases ***starred***. -- I did begin that very night by not ***doing up any crimps.*** I was going to wear my hair like Clara's. She never wears any crimps. Runover girls never do, though they have never advanced any sufficiently good reason to me for not crimping it, for they all look like old fuds with it so, and they spend just as much and more time brushing and smoothing it ***at night than I do on my Fedoras.*** Well, I was going to say I didn't do up any; but about three o'clock I woke up and remembered that I had promised to go skating with Charlie Brood out to Jamaica the next morning, and I knew any amount of self-improvement wouldn't make up for the absence of crimps in his eyes, so I just snaked out of bed and ***up with two Fedoras;*** but no sooner had I got them up than my conscience began to reproach me for my weakness, and after I got back into bed I determined that even Charlie Brood's criticisms shouldn't influence me, and I began to take them down; but you see I was so sleepy, getting up so suddenly (it all was like a dream), that I only got one down before I dropped to sleep, and the next morning you ought to have seen what a fright I looked. You know how high my forehead is, and shiny. Well, there I was with all that shining expanse and ***one little bob on the left temple***, and I overslept on account of getting up so, and was late, and before I could do anything
Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras
Hm. I see what you mean. In the first reference, the comparison is made about the time spent brushing hair vs brushing the hat clean. And in the next, she's using the hat to hide her unstyled hair because she was too lazy to set it. She was saying that Charlie would be disappointed with her for not having her hair done. But it does say two fedoras, and that she fell back asleep with one side undone. Unless she's splitting it down the middle, doing a quick twisted bun on each side, and putting the hat over, I don't know how she'd get two hats on her head. What year was that written?? Maybe there was a styling hair tool called a fedora. And I'm loving the Sarah B story. I'm going to have to research that tonight. :D I would like to add this though. If you're planning on wearing a hat, you do have to style your hair with the hat in mind. The hat influences the style, for sure. I'm not sure if there was ever a hair style that was a fedora style but depending on the shape of the hat, or where it sits on the head, styling it right is everything. On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 9:59 PM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks; lovely resources. I'm definitely familiar with the fedora as a hat; I've just never heard of it as a hair styling technique before, hence my curiosity! Thanks to Google books and the Ngram viewer (hugely useful for etymological study), I've managed to track down a possible link. The fedora was named after the hat that Sarah Bernhardt wore during an 1882 play called Fedora. (Meaning that all those manly men in noir movies were wearing a girl's hat...) Perhaps the hairstyle she wore during the play ALSO started a fashion for a particular style of curls, and the girl in that passage I quoted was setting her curls into the particular style that Sarah B wore during the play; it sounds like it must have been one really tight curl per side, covering the forehead. (Sadly, I've been unable to find a photo of Sarah B in the original fedora hat with her fedora curls.) Also, I've come to the conclusion that 'crimp' and 'curl' were being used as interchangeable words. -E House On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 11:37 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: OH!! I forgot! I was going to give you one more link...old videos of women doing their hair. I love this! http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic/hair.htm On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: What a fun topic!!! Love vintage hair styling! And since my hair wont hold a heat curl for more than 35 minutes, I've explored a lot of no-heat curl options. :) A fedora is a particular style of hat. It was quite the norm to give hats a little treatment at the end of every use, especially in the case of suede, felt or velvet, where a brushing not only knocks the dirt off but refreshes the surface texture. People did this with garments too to get a little more wear out of them between washings, or to keep non-washable garments clean. There are quite a number of ways to achieve curls, without modern curling irons, and women have been doing it since the dawn of time. To me, crimp implies more of a folded, zig-zag type curl than a round curl. Or at the very least, tight and small curls. In the 1880s, many irons existed for hair styling many of which would achieve a crimped look. Even a iron for clothes could be used to curl hair. But I agree that the author is implying that it is a set and air dry style...and that the starring character is being lazy with her beauty routine. LOL! What you suggested are all definite possibilities. While bobby pins are a newer invention, standard hair pins have been around since before the birth of Christ. In addition to pinning curls to your head like 40s pin curls, hair pin curls could be achieved in the same way that hairpin crochet is done; take a small strand, wrap it back and forth on the needles, pin the whole thing in place and let it dry. A twist set creates a more crimped look too. Either you take small sections of hair and twist the sections together tightly. Or you take one section and twist it around something else. Then, once it is fully try, you carefully un-twist. It's all the same process, whether you use only your own hair or wrap around something else. The twist out set is done today, usually on kinky curly hair but even those with straight hair can achieve a similar look. Do a web search for twist out to see what I'm talking about. :) Or watch this girl. She uses drinking straws and bobby pins to achieve no-heat crimpy curls. I love it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBik0XlFZKE And for something older (1700s), check out this lady's video on paper curls. I know you were leaning toward no-heat styling, but there's a catalogue in the beginning of the video that makes this worth watching for your
Re: [h-cost] 3,300-year-old trousers found in China
VERY cool! Thank you, Caatherine! On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:58 AM, Catherine Walton catherine.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk wrote: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/jun/06/oldest- trousers-found-in-china-mummies ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?
I have been thinking about this since your message came through a few hours ago, trying to come up with a source to prove or disprove the use of gathers in 1550 to 1600. (One of the things I adore about this list is that folks site documentation to back up opinions.) However, I'm drawing a blank too, since most of our existing examples show those of wealth, layered in seriously significant amounts of yardage. What class of gown are you working on? It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, and therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one only had enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than the hip measurement, 5 inches would not pleat evenly all the way around. To evenly space the pleats and put them all the way around without major gaps between them, the fabric must be 1.5 times the waist measurement, at minimum, right? (And this doesn't even take into account bum rolls.) It's not like gathering wasn't a new skill in that time period...by that era, people had been manipulating fabric with that technique for a long, long time. If you're not aiming for upper class, I say go for it. If you are aiming for upper class, and are low on fabric, maybe a Spanish surcoat would work for the amount of fabric you have...? Or are you just trying to get out of making pleats?? *wink* 'Bella On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Elizabeth Jones elizabethrjones2...@gmail.com wrote: I can't think of any Elizabethan images that show pleats as small as those in mid 19th century skirts (which is the context in which I have previously heard the term gauging) Cartridge pleats are one of the types of pleats used but judging by portraits I wouldn't put in pleats any smaller than 1 inch wide (i.e.I mean 1 inch as the section showing on top of the pleat not the total amount of fabric taken up by the pleat) for an Elizabethan skirt. Elizabeth On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Just curious. . . I don't have a good Elizabethan book to hand. In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt? Many thanks! I can do it. . . but little tucks are easier. :) ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drei Schnittbucher Kickstarter
Awwhhh...darn it! I wanted to pledge the 45 and get surprised with a book (to go with my copy of Alcega). Alas, the maximum donations in that category have already filled and I cannot swing the larger donations. Pooey! :( On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com wrote: Katherine Barich and I have been working on a book for the last 6 months about 3 16th century Master Tailor's pattern books. We've launched a kickstarter to fund the production and publication of the book, here's the link for more details. Please share with other lists and people who might be interested in this book, its going to be amazing! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor Thanks! Marion McNealy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drei Schnittbucher Kickstarter
Oh! Thank you, Sigrid! On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 10:09 PM, Sigrid Briansdotter sigridki...@hotmail.com wrote: You may be in luck. There doesn't seem to be a limit on the $45 level now. Regards, Anne Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 18:11:33 -0800 From: mae...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drei Schnittbucher Kickstarter Awwhhh...darn it! I wanted to pledge the 45 and get surprised with a book (to go with my copy of Alcega). Alas, the maximum donations in that category have already filled and I cannot swing the larger donations. Pooey! :( On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com wrote: Katherine Barich and I have been working on a book for the last 6 months about 3 16th century Master Tailor's pattern books. We've launched a kickstarter to fund the production and publication of the book, here's the link for more details. Please share with other lists and people who might be interested in this book, its going to be amazing! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor Thanks! Marion McNealy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Wonderful!! I had a feeling gasket was wrong...LOL! Thank you sooo much! On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Kate Bunting katembunt...@gmail.comwrote: Sybella, A few corrections to the translation: It definitely calls for grosgrain ribbon as the alternative to velvet. Garniture here means the trimming on the hat. (It may mean a gasket in another context!) Pan may refer to the two hanging ends of ribbon. Pince seems to mean a dart, if I interpret my dictionary correctly. Batissez-la - literally build it - i.e. stitch it? Du sens oppose a la premiere = in the opposite direction to the first. Surely you are meant to bring points E and E' together? Hope this helps, Kate Bunting Retired librarian 17th century reenactor Police Bonnet It's a very wanted model now. The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful. Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n?22, or if you don't have that, a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon. Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60 remains for the cap. The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry: I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket. Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the reference points. The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing together D to D', b?tissez-l?. Close the headband to your head entry. Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference points A A' together. Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2 B and B'from the end of the ribbon to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon. Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction by bringing C together witk C' and C' to E'. Place the gasket on to the headband cap. Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can mean opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband cap. I have no idea which one is meant here..) Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'. Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I', and then H and H'. The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull? shell?) Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on each side Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds. (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress) Lysiane ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Ahahaahaa...yes, translation is everything, isn't it?! Come to think of it, decorative doo-dads that are parsley shaped may look rather smashing! ;) I'm still confused on where to start though. How many of each to cut, what's on the fold, etc. I'm assuming the solid lines are cutting lines and the dotted are ribbon guide lines but if I don't have the pieces in the right shape to start, no amount of A to A and B to B will result in anything resembling a hat. On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.comwrote: Yes, think of translating it to 'garnish'. It's the parsley on the hat?? LynnD On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:04 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Wonderful!! I had a feeling gasket was wrong...LOL! Thank you sooo much! On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Kate Bunting katembunt...@gmail.com wrote: Sybella, A few corrections to the translation: It definitely calls for grosgrain ribbon as the alternative to velvet. Garniture here means the trimming on the hat. (It may mean a gasket in another context!) Pan may refer to the two hanging ends of ribbon. Pince seems to mean a dart, if I interpret my dictionary correctly. Batissez-la - literally build it - i.e. stitch it? Du sens oppose a la premiere = in the opposite direction to the first. Surely you are meant to bring points E and E' together? Hope this helps, Kate Bunting Retired librarian 17th century reenactor Police Bonnet It's a very wanted model now. The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful. Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n?22, or if you don't have that, a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon. Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60 remains for the cap. The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry: I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket. Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the reference points. The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing together D to D', b?tissez-l?. Close the headband to your head entry. Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference points A A' together. Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2 B and B'from the end of the ribbon to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon. Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction by bringing C together witk C' and C' to E'. Place the gasket on to the headband cap. Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can mean opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband cap. I have no idea which one is meant here..) Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'. Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I', and then H and H'. The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull? shell?) Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on each side Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds. (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress) Lysiane ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Ye!! I thought it was stinkin' cute too!! If anyone can clean up: the instructions, I'll certainly give that idea a try, Hanna! :) On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 10:28 AM, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.dewrote: Cute hat! This is probably one of the instructions that only make sense if you have the piece under your hands. The cap on the picture is striped, perhaps the pattern is easier to understand if you cut a mock up from striped material? Hanna At 08:18 12.02.2014, you wrote: Oh, fantastic!!! Wheew...glad that worked!! :D Yes, the hat portion of the text is just part of first column, ending with Lysiane. So, as daunting as all that text is, only a small portion pertains. One of my FB gal-pals tried to translate it but I have a feeling, even with a great translation, this is going to be one of those projects where it makes zero sense until you're working through each step. She apologized because she got stuck in more than a few places, saying that since she doesn't sew, it doesn't make any sense to her. But hey, she's the only one that came through with an effort so I'm delighted by her kindness! :) Per her translation, it almost reads like a knitting or crochet pattern...only it doesn't tell you how many of each piece to cut out, what's on the fold, where exactly to cut, and so on. Just ribbon here to there, on the dotted lines, and repeat. It would help to have more than one view of the hat too. This is yet another moment where I want to say Hey lady, turn around!!! LOL! This is what Els wrote: Police Bonnet It's a very wanted model now. The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful. Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n°22, or if you don't have that, a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon. Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60 remains for the cap. The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry: I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket. Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the reference points. The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing together D to D', bâtissez-là. Close the headband to your head entry. Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference points A A' together. Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2 B and B'from the end of the ribbon to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon. Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction by bringing C together witk C' and C' to E'. Place the gasket on to the headband cap. Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can mean opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband cap. I have no idea which one is meant here..) Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'. Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I', and then H and H'. The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull? shell?) Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on each side Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds. (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress) Lysiane On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 10:46 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: It worked! Had to do a screen capture to get the text and the pic. I may not be that much help but it does seem like the directions are more clear than, say, in the 1890s. I have a bunch of French patterns from then and earlier and the so-called instructions are really only the barest of descriptions to accompany the pattern shapes you trace and cut out. ==Marjorie Wilser (thinking about trying to follow the directions and see where it leads!) On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: It took me a while to find it online somewhere. Here... http://club.season.ru/index.php?act=Attachtype=postid=372206 I sure hope that works! On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Janet Davis bear_ja...@msn.com wrote: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Oh my goodness...seriously!? I've attached it twice now. And it comes back from the lis to my email with the attachment. Hm. It's nearly 1 am so I'm out of steam for the day. I'll see if I can upload it directly to pinterest tomorrow, and give you a link so you can view it that way. Crossing fingers that pinterest will let me upload. Gah. Unless you all have a better idea...? (This is almost as frustrating as the pattern. LOL!) On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 10:31 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.comwrote: Maybe the List strips attachments? It's not there this time either. ==Marjorie Wilser (the3toad) @gmail.com On Feb 10, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Hm...How strange! It is attached on the copy that came through the list and back to me. I wonder why it is hiding from you. Grrr. Attaching again. :) Thanks so much! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
It took me a while to find it online somewhere. Here... http://club.season.ru/index.php?act=Attachtype=postid=372206 I sure hope that works! On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Janet Davis bear_ja...@msn.com wrote: This list doesn't take attachments. Janet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Oh, fantastic!!! Wheew...glad that worked!! :D Yes, the hat portion of the text is just part of first column, ending with Lysiane. So, as daunting as all that text is, only a small portion pertains. One of my FB gal-pals tried to translate it but I have a feeling, even with a great translation, this is going to be one of those projects where it makes zero sense until you're working through each step. She apologized because she got stuck in more than a few places, saying that since she doesn't sew, it doesn't make any sense to her. But hey, she's the only one that came through with an effort so I'm delighted by her kindness! :) Per her translation, it almost reads like a knitting or crochet pattern...only it doesn't tell you how many of each piece to cut out, what's on the fold, where exactly to cut, and so on. Just ribbon here to there, on the dotted lines, and repeat. It would help to have more than one view of the hat too. This is yet another moment where I want to say Hey lady, turn around!!! LOL! This is what Els wrote: Police Bonnet It's a very wanted model now. The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful. Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n°22, or if you don't have that, a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon. Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60 remains for the cap. The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry: I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket. Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the reference points. The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing together D to D', bâtissez-là. Close the headband to your head entry. Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference points A A' together. Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2 B and B'from the end of the ribbon to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon. Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction by bringing C together witk C' and C' to E'. Place the gasket on to the headband cap. Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can mean opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband cap. I have no idea which one is meant here..) Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'. Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I', and then H and H'. The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull? shell?) Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on each side Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds. (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress) Lysiane On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 10:46 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.comwrote: It worked! Had to do a screen capture to get the text and the pic. I may not be that much help but it does seem like the directions are more clear than, say, in the 1890s. I have a bunch of French patterns from then and earlier and the so-called instructions are really only the barest of descriptions to accompany the pattern shapes you trace and cut out. ==Marjorie Wilser (thinking about trying to follow the directions and see where it leads!) On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: It took me a while to find it online somewhere. Here... http://club.season.ru/index.php?act=Attachtype=postid=372206 I sure hope that works! On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Janet Davis bear_ja...@msn.com wrote: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Normally, I can look at a pattern and have a clear idea of how flat pieces fit together and follow a shape, what is cut on the fold, how many to cut, etc. But with this one, I'm stumped. It's a tricky monkey puzzle! From the looks of the pattern text, you cut one of each piece but I can't see how that makes a cap. I'm hoping what I don't understand of the text will shed light on that. Can someone please translate the directions for me? Please? (Thanks to studying Spanish, I can make out some of this but not enough. And since it's an image, I can't just paste the text into an online translator...I would guess that it will take a experienced sewer's eye to translate it correctly.) Thank you! 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Hm...How strange! It is attached on the copy that came through the list and back to me. I wonder why it is hiding from you. Grrr. Attaching again. :) Thanks so much! On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 9:38 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote: You didn't attach the file. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sybella Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern Normally, I can look at a pattern and have a clear idea of how flat pieces fit together and follow a shape, what is cut on the fold, how many to cut, etc. But with this one, I'm stumped. It's a tricky monkey puzzle! From the looks of the pattern text, you cut one of each piece but I can't see how that makes a cap. I'm hoping what I don't understand of the text will shed light on that. Can someone please translate the directions for me? Please? (Thanks to studying Spanish, I can make out some of this but not enough. And since it's an image, I can't just paste the text into an online translator...I would guess that it will take a experienced sewer's eye to translate it correctly.) Thank you! 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
I doubt he'd be up on the latest fashion jargon unless he was into that. He'd probably say blouse, top...maybe tank. But I can't imagine he'd ever say camisole or cami. LOL! On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 11:26 AM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote: Lands' End has pants that sit at the waist. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 2:37 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank? I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit garments with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those from the '70s? And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it is also VERY long, so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants that still seem to be in vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO. Hard for us mature women to find pants that sit decently at the waist. Ann Wass In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, sfsh...@gmail.com writes: LOL. This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, ages 18 and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a camisole and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a layer, but a layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in hot weather, it is worn alone. Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with cut-on shoulders. On 1/5/14, 9:28 PM, Sybella wrote: Hm. In my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment regardless of modern vernacular. LOL! Tank tops can be delicate in style...I would say what the OP is describing would be using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One could say tank top with spaghetti straps, maybe. Did you see the wiki page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote it also mentions camisole. There are pictures at the bottom of the page, with all the variations that fall under tank tops. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com wrote: cami or camisole On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Hi folks, I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about a popular item of modern summer clothing for women. What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of a tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones I think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm looking for here. So what's the modern name for it, please? :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
I'm tempted to post a picture on my FB page asking males to state their age and a brief description of the top. LOL! On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:14 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer. He'll be amused! == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:58 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: Ask them. Most of us are the wrong gender and the wrong age. My ex-husband used skimpy, particularly concerning his daughters' clothing. But then he's my age. Skimpy might be generational. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Find me THE picture, showing the top you have in mind. I'll do it! :) On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 7:24 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: ROFL!!! Thanks for the giggle! :) == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:44 PM, Sybella wrote: I'm tempted to post a picture on my FB page asking males to state their age and a brief description of the top. LOL! On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:14 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer. He'll be amused! == Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Hm. In my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment regardless of modern vernacular. LOL! Tank tops can be delicate in style...I would say what the OP is describing would be using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One could say tank top with spaghetti straps, maybe. Did you see the wiki page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote it also mentions camisole. There are pictures at the bottom of the page, with all the variations that fall under tank tops. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com wrote: cami or camisole On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Hi folks, I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about a popular item of modern summer clothing for women. What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of a tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones I think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm looking for here. So what's the modern name for it, please? :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cranach Gown Project, was: Re: what is everyone working on?
I think Sheridan was talking about this: http://www.livescience.com/21691-600-year-old-medieval-bras-discovered.html http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/20/medieval-bras-history-women-support Quite fascinating! Especially considering it changes everything we thought we knew about bra history. 'Bella On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 11:05 AM, Sharon Henderson henderson.sha...@gmail.com wrote: Sounds like a fun project, Sheridan! Is there a website or a reference where we could see the bra finds, and will you post pics of the resulting shift? A Cranach gown has been on my Wanna Do This List for ages. :) Cheers, Meli On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Sheridan wrote: Currently I'm working on a Saxony/Cranach style gown, from the skin out. Starting with a shift based on those Medieval 'bra' finds from a few years ago, and finishing with a giant hat full of feathers. :0) Currently I have part of the shift draped, just needs to be sewn, trimmed and then turned into a final pattern. I've got the test run of a chemise/shirt currently on my dress form, awaiting some buttons and a bit of tweaking. (Not completely happy with the pattern I drafted) There is also a gollar that I had to do some major re-working on (I used a commercial pattern, and I'm very un-pleased about the fit) and I'm now at the trimming stage with it. Fabric for the gown has been sitting in my stash for over 10 years, I finally found and purchased my border fabric this weekend and I found my stash of ribbons/trims that I have been stockpiling for this outfit over the years. Finally hit critical mass with this one, so it's time to sew! Sheridan P. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber
Ahh, darn it!! Polyester?? No When I'm shopping for clothing, I look long and hard for natural fibers. Synthetics make my hair stand on end, and as a wavy, I battle unruly curls all the time. I really do not need static making it more difficult for me. Plus, I find it quite bothersome that, according to that article, polyester is a petroleum by-product. I haven't done my research (I avoid polyester anyway) but if it is fossil derived, it is not a renewable resource. Hasn't there been complaints since the 1980s that fossil sources are nearly depleted?? In my opinion, anything that comes from the same source as gasoline doesn't belong on our skin. (Does anyone really like polyester?? LOL!) That said, I'm incredibly disappointed and grossed out that polyester has made a come back. :( 'Bella On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 4:46 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Polyester. Ick. But it's grown up in the world since the bulletproof variety, and SOME things in poly are actually decent feeling. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:29 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and I have to say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently set. Ann Wass __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Ha. I'm with Fran on this one. If we saved every vintage textile we found, we could fill a warehouse...and it would all just sit there. What would be the point? Mom has boxes and boxes of vintage embroidered sheets, pillow cases, dish towels, table clothes, etc. Since she wants to save them, we don't use for them. Frankly, I'm sick of trying to live with boxes, lugging them around to get to other things, and endlessly moving useless stuff around the house. If I could do it without Mom noticing and getting ticked off, I'd start mailing it all to Fran. LOL! That said, I also understand where Isabella is coming from because I HATE it when people take a piece of vintage jewelry and destroy it by tweaking it into something modern. I find stuff on eBay all the time that just blows my mind. I cry when I read about someone who bought an historic diamond then had it recut. If it used to be in a royal crown and can be seen in portraits from hundreds of years ago, leave it alone! Man, oh man, I want to smack some people!! Things like that can never be replaced. But really, linen tunics?? Eh, they're nothing special. It's the rare stuff, especially things that have significant history, presses my buttons. 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: I've been a vintage clothing collector since I was 16. I've always worn items from my collection. I've always altered them for size, and in any and every other way I felt like. Lately, I have been been buying a lot of chemises and petticoats to dye and alter, transforming embroidered linens into clothes, and so on. When I was five, my parents bought a house that was built in 1860 and pristine, untouched, except for paint jobs (still in the original colors of white with green shutters). I am one of the few members of my generation with an intimate knowledge of what it's like to plunk my bottom on an icy privy seat in the middle of winter. Believe me, that house was vastly improved by the installation of modern central heating and plumbing. Termite extermination was nice too. Oh, and a covered well with an electric pump? And a septic tank? Definitely. No doubt, if the house had been a museum, there might have been regulations against changing it. But it was a private residence. Likewise, the clothing I buy is mine, not part of a museum. I am entitled to do whatever I want with it, have always done so, and will continue to do so. Obviously, if you have a clothing collection you may do whatever you wish with your own property--just as I do. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 1:25 PM, . . wrote: I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it! Would you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it into a modern home? Of course not! Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part of our cultural heritage. It's sad that we do not have similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being described here. I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic? You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales. There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to wear. -Isabella Today's Topics: 1. Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press) --**--** -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 16:00:45 -0700 From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic Message-ID: 5154CB9D.8050503@**lavoltapress.com5154cb9d.8050...@lavoltapress.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Really easy way to get a handsewn T-tunic: Buy one of the heavy French linen chemises regularly sold by sellers on Etsy. They are sometimes labeled as nightgowns, sometimes labeled as hemp (maybe they are, but I suspect poor translation), sometimes labeled as metis (apparently a linen/cotton blend), sometimes labeled as handwoven which I don't think they are, but they *are* often (not always) completely hand sewn. They are sometimes labeled as Regency or Georgian but the tradition cut hung on and most are likely late 19th or early 20th century. The necklines tend to be round or square, but not V. Sometimes there is a front slit, sometimes not. Some have sleeves, some are sleeveless. Prices vary, but are often reasonable (especially for a hand sewn garment in good condition). I recently bought a lot of four for $40 on eBay. Here is one: http://www.etsy.com/listing/**127568458/french-nightgown-**
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Ha. Wicked, wicked woman!! Hands off my precious!!! LOL! (When my eyeballs popped out of my head, my dogs thought they were new toys and didn't want to give them back.) Fran, isn't there something you are partial to?? It can't be all materials to reuse. You already know my weakness. I don't want anyone messing with old fine jewelry. Come on...fess up. There's got to be something old with a do-not-cross line. 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: Your mother will never notice if you mail all those embroidered linens to me. Trust me. Here's my address! snippity snip, snip And if I owned a huge historic diamond and wanted to wear it, I'd certainly consider having it recut. If you've got any diamonds around the house, send those along too. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Oh no...please don't feel I'm putting you in the place to defend yourself. I'm not judging you, Fran. I agree that people can do what they want with what they own but there are a few things that I wish people would leave alone. (The Wittelsbach Diamond, for example -- 400 years went down the toilet in 2011.) However, those that have responded to this thread seem to fall in different areas of a save or reuse spectrum. I find that interesting! Compared to Isabella's outrage, you're on the other extreme. I'm just curious if there is anything sacred to you, any certain item that should be saved, not reused or recycled. If so, what is it?? ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Yeee!! Maggie's got it!! :) Though, I do use my vintage gold and silver hat pins, jewelry, hair combs, etc. they will never be altered while I own them. Their history is an important part of why I adore them so much. I have a few vintage hats that I have considered hand-sewing some vintage bobbles to but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that it's okay to alter them. One time I hurt my finger and had to get a ring off quick because my finger was swelling. You should have seen me stressing about cutting it off! It was comical! The inside is inscribed 10 29 1895-1945 because it was someone's 50 year anniversary ring at one time. The people that were with me were looking at me funny because I couldn't bring myself cut the center middle. What are you doing?!!? they were saying, You don't cut a ring toward the front! All the while, I was just hoping I would miss the inscription. Finger, be damned! LOL! Clothing, household textiles and whatnot, I don't have that same problem with. I do buy linen at thrift stores just to harvest the fabric for other projects. 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 6:54 PM, Maggie Koenig hhalb94...@aol.com wrote: Fran, I think what is being asked is are there antique items of any kind that you won't mess with. For example, my mom's antique cups and saucers that she collected were never used. However, we did use the antique depression glass that she collected on a daily basis. Personally, I won't take apart a textile to use its components. However I will use vintage ribbon and trims on reproduction items that won't get heavy use. I don't wear vintage clothing at all which is fine since I'm a little fluffy for it. Maggie Koenig. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2013, at 9:49 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com wrote: Absolutely no item that belongs to anyone else is sacred to me. It's not my business to decide that for other people. My collection and my wardrobe freely overlap. I bought everything I own with the possibility of wearing it someday, even if only on rare occasions. Otherwise I would not enjoy it. I don't have room to display clothes and for me there's no point in acquiring things that just sit around in a closet or chest for decades. What I wear and don't wear changes over time, depending on the occasions I have to wear things and on whatever vintage styles may currently be in fashion. I have pulled out garments I wasn't wearing to dye or to cut up. I've put away other garments, most merely because I currently have no occasion to wear them. It's whatever I need and want at the moment. I don't make a permanent decision never to wear or alter anything. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 6:36 PM, Sybella wrote: Oh no...please don't feel I'm putting you in the place to defend yourself. I'm not judging you, Fran. I agree that people can do what they want with what they own but there are a few things that I wish people would leave alone. (The Wittelsbach Diamond, for example -- 400 years went down the toilet in 2011.) However, those that have responded to this thread seem to fall in different areas of a save or reuse spectrum. I find that interesting! Compared to Isabella's outrage, you're on the other extreme. I'm just curious if there is anything sacred to you, any certain item that should be saved, not reused or recycled. If so, what is it?? ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Never mind. I give up. LOL! Maggie, I love the Bake King glass baking dishes for the philbe and sapphire design. And I do use them. I'm sure I'd like your mother's depression glass but it's usually delicate, which makes me nervous. :) 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 7:31 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: People are entitled to preserve their own items for any aesthetic or sentimental reason they want. I certainly have things I think are beautiful that I would not alter for style (at least not right now), but that is different from being a custodian of history, let alone a custodian of someone else's stuff, and different from thinking everything old is precious and should be inviolable. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 7:22 PM, Sybella wrote: Yeee!! Maggie's got it!! :) Though, I do use my vintage gold and silver hat pins, jewelry, hair combs, etc. they will never be altered while I own them. Their history is an important part of why I adore them so much. I have a few vintage hats that I have considered hand-sewing some vintage bobbles to but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that it's okay to alter them. One time I hurt my finger and had to get a ring off quick because my finger was swelling. You should have seen me stressing about cutting it off! It was comical! The inside is inscribed 10 29 1895-1945 because it was someone's 50 year anniversary ring at one time. The people that were with me were looking at me funny because I couldn't bring myself cut the center middle. What are you doing?!!? they were saying, You don't cut a ring toward the front! All the while, I was just hoping I would miss the inscription. Finger, be damned! LOL! Clothing, household textiles and whatnot, I don't have that same problem with. I do buy linen at thrift stores just to harvest the fabric for other projects. 'Bella __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants
In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee knickers. Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least one other name for them. Knee highs, maybe? It seems every time they come back into fashion, they are called something else. Maybe the term breeches is more accurate. However, that term was used 4 or 500 years before Victorian times, so I'm not really sure. Thanks to the Brits, I do consider knickers undergarments, and I do think the term has been used that way since Victorian times. Isn't Steampunk simply a style, not an accurate reflection of any true time period? As I understand it, it takes characteristics from a span of years, and throws in some extra flare. Since it doesn't really claim to be historically accurate*, call the trousers whatever you want! :) *Even the Steampunk fans argue this out. Some say it's Victorian clothes with technology from another year...some say it's just a literary genre. See this link: http://austinsirkin.tumblr.com/post/20317870381/what-is-steampunk-its-come-to-my-attention This online store calls all the bottoms/pants trousers but they do carry two that end below the knee. They call them...are you ready...KNICKERS! :) http://www.steampunkemporium.com/steam.php 'Bella On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:51 AM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.comwrote: Knickers are short for knickerbockers, from some deep recess of my memory. I know they weren't called knee-breeches during Victorian times (except maybe by old ladies) but I can't verify they were called knickers. My theory is that the ladies' underwear term, knickers, came from the name of the short trousers worn by men. Supposition on my part; my library is miles away and I can't remember anything solid to back up my comments. LynnD On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I thought knickers referred to underwear. Julie Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from my Rev War days. Is knickers the correct term for men's knee breeches in Victorian times? Henry Osier ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
Yes, I did mean the 1980s and capri is another one, Cynthia! And Carol may be right, where my memories blended '70s with the '80s...but I do distinctly remember asking Mom to take me shopping for a pair of knickers, pants that came to a gather just below the knee, during my childhood. Honestly, it's something I'd rather not admit to so I'll trust you all to keep it a secret! ;) Like I said, every time they come back into fashion, there's a new name for the same recycled style! LOL! 'Bella On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 1:06 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: There was a short fad for knickers in the mid to late 1970s for women. Gauchos were another one, loose pants that ended below the knee - sort of like a split skirt. For both, you might wear them with a blouse and matching vest. Culottes were a skirt/shorts combo, just above the knee. They might have a wide leg or a separate panel for the skirt effect. Sporty, I remember my mom wearing them for golfing. Capri pants are high ankle or low calf length, and are currently fashionable, and were various times back as far as the 1950s. I think of Audrey Hepburn in them. Pedal pushers were long-ish shorts, I think just below the knee? But a regular pants width, not flared and not gathered. I remember them from the 1960s, but could be earlier. -Carol On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee knickers. Assuming you mean 1980s: I recall Capri pants for women,not knickers. Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least one other name for them. Knee highs, maybe? It seems every time they come back into fashion, they are called something else. Probably, pedal-pushers as that what my mom called the things they went bicycling in in the 1950s. Also, Knickers strikes me as something an early 20th c golfer or upperclass sport hunter (male) might wear. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
LOL! I'm laughing my butt off over here. Hope, thanks for trying but you can't pull the embarrassment card unless you wore them! You have spared yourself a lifetime of shame by not using that pattern! :) Clam diggers Great one!!! I'm surprised I forgot that one. It and peddle pushers are my favorite names for this horrid, fashion blight! 'Bella On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 2:42 PM, Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu wrote: Another name, at least in southeast Virginia, was 'clam diggers'. Kate Pinner Costume Scenic Design Tech. Coord., Kelsey Theatre, MCCC 609-570-3584 pinn...@mccc.edu Subject: Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants Bella - I won't tell if you won't tell that I actually had a pattern very similar to this one. Like so many other fashionable items that I thought would put me in the cool kid category, I didn't actually ever make them... http://momspatterns.com/inc/sdetail/95681 - Hope On 3/20/13 5:11 PM, Sybella wrote: Honestly, it's something I'd rather not admit to so I'll trust you all to keep it a secret! ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Thank you for the update, Suzanne! I'd love to see pictures. :) I found treasure today, and I think you're realy going to like it! http://www.sewweekly.com/2011/04/10-free-hat-tutorials-patterns/ Mena, SewWeekly's blogger, did an excellent job pulling together a list of free tutorials on the web. I love that there is a of variety hats (that they weren't all variations on the same theme or year). I couldn't help but take at look at each tutorial as soon as I found the list! Each tutorial is written by different person. Some were dumbed down. A few assumed advanced experience. Most were in the middle, similar to a knowledge base expected for a big three commercial pattern. However, number 4 kind of blew me away. Just drafting your pattern requires an advanced degree in mathematics! I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. Anyway, give it a looksee. I hope you're as tickled as I am and I couldn't wait to share it with you. 'Bella On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:07 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: Thanks, 'Bella! Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908 hat project today. Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern No. 6260, Scotch Hats. (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.) I haven't found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week. :-) I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials. I'm going to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison. The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation. The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of big hair). We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire online so we can tackle more complicated projects. Suzanne On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com …. Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Oh, Emma...I think I love you!! :D I was looking at that Carnahan book on eBay and Amazon last night and so desperately wanted to see inside. I had no idea THAT was the broken link. LOL! (*Giggles* at Wayback Machine.) 'Bella On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 10:32 PM, e...@huskers.unl.edu e...@huskers.unl.edu wrote: Wayback Machine to the rescue! http://web.archive.org/web/20080723214521/http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-toc.html From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Sybella [mae...@gmail.com] I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Hat canvas is different than interfacing. It looks more like heavily stiffened gauze. (I have no clue what Timtex is but I do have a small roll of canvas for hats. Unfortunately, I have no packaging to identify it by brand.) Some of my vintage hats are wired too but most of them hold their shape with just the canvas. I would take canvas the brim to mean attach the interfacing, the interfacing being the hat canvas, of course. As for fabric choices, what will it be worn with? Perhaps a velveteen? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 6:11 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Hat canvas is different than interfacing. It looks more like heavily stiffened gauze. (I have no clue what Timtex is but I do have a small roll of canvas for hats. Unfortunately, I have no packaging to identify it by brand.) Some of my vintage hats are wired too but most of them hold their shape with just the canvas. I would take canvas the brim to mean attach the interfacing, the interfacing being the hat canvas, of course. As for fabric choices, what will it be worn with? Perhaps a velveteen? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hairdresser recreates ancient hairstyles
I'd like to see this woman's blog, or at least, her notes and photos. Has anyone found anything else on her projects? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: From the Wall Street Journal: http://online.wsj.com/article/**SB1000142412788732490020457828** 6272195339456.html?mod=wsj_**share_tweethttp://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324900204578286272195339456.html?mod=wsj_share_tweet Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hairdresser recreates ancient hairstyles
Strike that thought. She's all over the internet...off to do research. LOL! On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 11:05 AM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: I'd like to see this woman's blog, or at least, her notes and photos. Has anyone found anything else on her projects? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.comwrote: From the Wall Street Journal: http://online.wsj.com/article/**SB1000142412788732490020457828** 6272195339456.html?mod=wsj_**share_tweethttp://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324900204578286272195339456.html?mod=wsj_share_tweet Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hairdresser recreates ancient hairstyles
No, I hadn't and the hair style is lovely! Thank you, Ruth! :) On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com wrote: Have you seen this? http://www.livescience.com/26574-egyptian-mummy-facial-reconstructions.html It's based on a CT scan… Gorgeous… --Ruth Anne Baumgartner On Feb 7, 2013, at 1:33 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: From the Wall Street Journal: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324900204578286272195339456.html?mod=wsj_share_tweet Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A hoopskirt for your entertainment
That's actually an incredible find...not Victorian but really cool!! :) On Wed, Dec 12, 2012 at 12:11 PM, Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.comwrote: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Hoop-Skirt-/230894469819 This was posted recently in a group I'm in by someone who's pretty convinced that it's period. Plastic through and through but still entertaining! I love the collapsing struts and the hatbox you can store it in. -Laura ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for experienced sempsters
I've seen this happen with wool and looser weaves. Never cotton quilting fabric though, unless it's on the bias. That is strange. I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress together, that would be a bear. You'd have to take it all apart, iron it, add the interfacing, then sew it all together again.) If you line it with something that doesn't stretch out of shape, the dress will only stretch as far as the lining will...I hope!! 'Bella On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:52 AM, Aurora Celeste auroracele...@gmail.comwrote: Washing and drying shrinks fabric. Wearing stretches it back out again. The shrinking from washing is not a permanent process, especially for fabric under stress (like tight clothes). On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 2:47 PM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I have a mystery that I'd like some insight on. I've spoken in person to all the costumers I know and all are baffled. I made a dress for my daughter from decent quilting cottons from Joanne's. It has a tight fitted bodice with boning. The dress stretched so I took it in. It stretched some more so I put elastic in key areas. It stretched some more. Yesterday just for giggles I tried it on. It fits. I'm substantially larger than my daughter (maybe 2 sizes). What the heck? The dress will fit her immediately after washing drying but begins stretching back out within an hour or so. Does anyone have any ideas? The fabric was washed dried before I cut it out. This is very discouraging. I worked hard to make it fit her just right. Now it looks like I'm a lousy sempster. But at least I guess I get a dress out of it. Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hello again!
Thank you for the responses, Marjorie and Kate! That's a bummer about Teddy. Maybe I'll have to dig out his address and send him a letter, the kind with postage. :) I've been researching and studying kirtles lately, the kind with grand assiette sleeves, like the Moy. What are you all working on? Sybella On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 5:48 AM, Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.ukwrote: Hello, Sybella, The list is still active, but not as busy as it used to be. Teddy left a few years ago because his employer objected to his using his work email to subscribe, and a lot of the other old names seem to have disappeared. Glad to see you back! Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
